You say it's not a tutorial. But I found this one of the most informative and easy to keep up with films on TH-cam.. Great work. And thank you for taking the time to make it. 👍 From an electrical newbie, who now understands a little more.
Absolutely love watching young people making a serious effort, using affordable parts but doing a good job. Well done there :) If only the older (my) generations were making as much of an effort.
Surely you'd need a beautiful model to stand there and gesticulate. For a product of this standard, a model would be a bare minimum - certainly here in Australia it would be (a very politically correct young blonde in swimmers, naturally). ;-)
My god, just 3.47k subscribers. This is good. I'm loving it. You obviously need to give a little more information in videos but man these projects are gem.
@@ZaiFuchigami Excellent video Zai! Nice set up there too. Neat and tidy. Could you tell me the voltage of each bank please. Would love to get hold of a tesla battery for our off grid system instead of the lead acid batteries we have.
@@geepea101able he mentioned that in the video. Each module/bank is 24 volts. He has them all wired in parallel, so even with all 14 banks, he's still at 24 volts. None the less, I envy this guys setup a lot, straight GOALS right here. Maybe one day!
Beautifully done! I built a smaller system, a 5.3 kWh Tesla battery/inverter/dual solar controller power system in a 29" long aluminum toolbox, also with mostly Victron parts. It's sort of portable *if* you can lift 100+ lbs.
Super nice build 👍😄 i’m starting to buy victron parts but i will go with the multiplus 2 5000 watt x3 to get 3 phase 380 volt , and solar array around 20 kw and 100-200 kw/h battery’s..
You should be an instructor, your voice and word is clear I'm no electrician or how any of this thing works but listening to you I feel like I van easily be an electrician . Great job. I want your brain for a few days.
Very exciting to see you using major components and electronics from the pack, rather than pulling out thousands of loose batteries and building something from scratch. I would love to see someone make a business of this - selling power wall solutions for relatively cheap.
No one in their right mind would do that. Huge responsibility if something goes wrong with older and used battery packs and for what, 'relatively' small profit.
On current balancing on your batteries -- the opposite corner connection method does not balance your peak currents beyond two batteries, but it is better than taking both connections from one side. Your cross connect cables and battery modules form a multi-stage low pass filter, and charge is first provided to or from the batteries on each end, but the center batteries are always five time constants (or more, as the number of batteries goes up) behind to get to 99% current of the batteries on the ends. Eventually, the batteries in the middle will equalize (in *voltage* , not current) to the end batteries after enough time, but the tail current is always a superposition of all the stacked currents from all the modules. The result of all this is that your charger may or may not fully charge all the modules in the middle before it shuts down, and the middle batteries are not doing the same work as the ends.. It depends on the tail current algorithm, and how much resting period there is to allow the voltages to equalize, etc. There are two ways to balance all the currents; one is to home run all modules with equal length, equal resistance cables to a common post, or two, to use multiple corner symetry in your battery cabling, which may be impractical with these big modules. You can model the system using a circuit simulator, but use supercapacitor RC equivalents with IC (initial condition) set to your lowest battery voltage. A fixed voltage battery model doesn't charge up like a real battery. A fixed voltage battery model *will* show you the initial condition when charge is first applied, and how far they are out of balance at time t(0).
It's wonderful to be able to access insights from experts such as yourself. One question arises - at what point do the relative cell charging characteristic tolerances make fine balancing irrelevant beyond a certain point? It appears that the starting point is to assume the batteries are identical. Is there a test to determine such things? Just wondering. Cheers and thank you, from Sydney - Dave
There's no way in hell, that I would put that much dense lithium in my house. I'd have that sucker on the side of the house in a different building that if it burnt down oh well you know lol. It's a great setup so don't get me wrong. I just would not have that in my house because all it takes is one bad cell to catch fire and then you lose everything.
Bro everybody says the same comment but you really don't know how the fuck lithium works and until you take an educational course on it rather than 2 seconds of Googling oh my God lithium is dangerous like a fucking dumb fuck then hold your comment there's this thing called a BMS a battery management system if you know what the fuck you're doing clearly you don't but this kid does he has a fucking engineering degree and knows how to correctly set it up so no it's not dangerous especially when it's stationary versus in a fucking moving vehicle that can have collisions and oh it was designed for that so sit the fuck down I'll pull out the chair for you
Is your system connected to your house breaker box and if yes, what amount of permitting you had to do with (TEPCO?) the power company? I live down in Miura and in a few months, I was thinking of starting to add panels to supplement my house's energy needs... Got fully electric house so eco-cute/oven/IH/AC/washing machine take quite a lot of power...
Congratulation on a nice setup. I currently use a 775AH 48V FLA forklift battery for my off grid solar system. It works well but I could do with more capacity, I would love a Tesla battery like you have but unfortunately they are in short supply and expensive here in Australia. I use the same breakers for AC and DC and have found them to be very good too.
If there’s a blackout and no one knew when the power was coming back. How long do you thing you can run from battery alone? And have you ever thought of a second way to charge up you batteries if it ran all week?
That’s a good question, calculating based on my current daily consumption I could go without sun for over two weeks. If I try to conserve and not use power unnecessary I could go longer. As for charging the battery if it ran down low, I explained in my video that the Victron MultiPlus has an AC charging function such allows a generator to be hooked up to charge.
If space wasn't an issue why couldn't you use the whole encase battery as is - and connect it to the rest of the system with the added bonus of being able to thermal control the heat disepation if needed ?
Hey man! Great job! Can you make an update video of the system? How's it been performing? Any stats you can share, etc?
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This is a nice setup you got going on there. Would it be possible to use the battery pack in it's original state, aka without removing the modules, and do something similar to power a mobile home/trailer/caravan? Asking because I do live in a could country (-20C, -25C). So coolant for keeping it warm in winter and cold in summer would be nice.
Nice clear video Zai thankyou. I also have a 3 kVA Multiplus and MPPT charge controller to set up , Can i ask what settings you used to interface with those battery modules so they partied nicely together ?
Nice job 👍. I am thinking of doing something similar in our basement. How are the cells doing after 2 years? Has the simp BMS had to disconnect the contactor at all?
Thanks! Cells are doing great, no issues with cell going out of balance or any corrosion issues. The cell balance is still holding steady at 5mV delta across all 14 modules. The BMS did trip the contactor twice during a patch of near zero sun during our rainy season. Supplemented with a gas generator.
Inspiring. My house has very low requirement 11-12 kWh/day (Passivhaus standard). Already have 14kWh storage but considering supplementing with Nissan Leaf batteries when my Nissan Leaf needs to be scrapped. I'll keep watching. Thanks for very informative video.
Great setup. I see that you used tomzn dx breakers between the charge controler, the inverter and the batteries. Unless I'm wrong, those dc breaker are one way, what means they can only handle current goi g in one direction. Or have you used one for the charge controler and another for the inverter?
Nice looking setup! Aren’t the Tesla car batteries going to overheat Since there’s no coolant system cooling them! And since they’re within a half inch of each other! shouldn’t they be spaced at least 3 to 4 inches apart with an intake fan and exhaust fan taking the heat out of the cabinet and the intake bringing from the room into the cabinet
I don't think so since the power input and power draw aren't huge like a car... unless I'm wrong about that EDIT: he actually addresses this in the video
Scotty is right. I don’t draw enough power from the modules to heat them up at all. They actually can’t heat up until you draw upwards of 10-20kW. Because of that fans or spacing aren’t required. The active components like the inverter and charge controller do have fans.
NICE! This will be one of the the first projects after purchasing a home. I'd have to limit the daily usage of my gaming entertainment system rigged to the home theatre system, which will have to be on separate breakers. HAHA.
How well do the solar panels work? Ive just purchased 6-300watt flexible panels for a airstream camper project and have room for 12 more if needed, all vents and A/C removed so I’ve got 28 feet of roof to work with. Ive got everything you have as far as Victron 24/3000 UL version and the 150/100 Mttp. Question though, Why choose the Tesla batt when you could purchase cells and build 8 or 12 24v 100 ah Batt w/24v BMS? Allowing a very easy swap if any cell were to fail, vrs Tesla and also the cells have a 5000/10year warranty? Thanks in advance if you have time to reply. PS nice set up and if the panels are in-fact 315watt could you point me to where you purchased as I plan on making a portable array to be plugged into the roof array as everything in this build will run off the solar so wattage is a must for 24/7 operation
very interesting.. do you think it would be possible to grab a tesla power wall and upgrade it with those batteries to effectively have a huge power wall that uses their app and hence be able to get the upgrades and all that?
Great video. I'm a little puzzled as to why you would have such a huge battery storage yet you only have a 2.8 kw solar system to charge it. It just seems overkill on the storage part. I don't get it.
Installed the array before the Tesla modules when I had a much smaller 14kWh Nissan Leaf battery bank. It was sized relatively correctly for that older system, so In comparison to the 60kWh of storage it seems small. I got the deal on the whole Tesla P85 pack so it wasn’t like I got 14 individual modules for it... Though I plan to add hydro and potentially more panels down the line.
@@ZaiFuchigami Okay, I didn't know you were planning to ad hydro or additional panels. I only saw what you had in the previous video. Sunpower has 415 watt panels, which is the highest wattage panels in the industry and which is what I have on my roof (4.9 kw system) if you are planning to additional solar panels; that is what I would go with. Either way, great job on the configuration!
Don't know if anyone has asked or if you have done it. I'd like to see a complete list of components and how you wired everything in. This was a way cool video. Thank you.
i have 2 model S battery in my Van - Victron Charger+ inverter- 650 watts flexible solar - i charge Sur ron Ebike - built system 3 yrs ago - have parts to quick charge with EV chargers but have not needed yet - your system very nice / clean
Thanks for sharing. You mentioned you are in Japan - anything regarding earthquake protection to prevent fire... in case something falls on the cells or cause a short ...? OK, if a quake is so powerful that the whole house collapses it does not mattter any more, but a smaller one...
i only see one issue, the way you wired it is drawing first the first tesla battery as you have +/- on the same and not + on 1st tesla and - on the last tesla by doing this insure full discharge and full charge to all at the same time.
Zai, What a great set up and video. Maybe it's obvious to some people, but I was wondering why you didn't use all of the Tesla battery modules? Follow-up question...Can you add more modules in the future for more capacity?
To be honest I should explained that in the video. The 14 modules I installed is more than enough energy to power my house so i though I’d save the other two. One modules I used for its cells to be built into smaller battery packs to power small devices. One modules has 444 basically perfectly balanced and high quality 18650 cells that would cost north of $1000 if bought as loose cells. The other module I’ll keep intact for another solar system in a workshop. To answer your last question, yes, you could add more modules in parallel to Increase capacity, but you could run into balancing issues if the modules you add aren’t degraded to the similar degree as the already installed ones. I don’t plan to add anymore as again, it’s more than enough capacity but, I also doubt another one of these pack will come out to the market in Japan anytime soon.
Forgive my lack of knowledge on Japan's electrical grid, but my understanding is that they use a 100VAC system. Do you have to worry about damaging any of your devices when using the 120VAC Inverter? The 20V delta is a bit past the +/- 10% tolerance that devices typically permit.
The MultiPlus I used is one of the few inverters that can actually be programmed down to 100VAC from its default of 120VAC. So it’s outputting the correct voltage for all my Japanese appliances. I have it set to 101VAC to account for some voltage drop in wiring, but it’s extremely stable.
@@ZaiFuchigami I did not know the MultiPlus could do that. That's awesome! Do you manage to run your entire house on that 3 kVA (≈3 kW) Inverter or are you also grid connected? As you may already know, most modern houses in the States have a 200A service at 240V, so 48 kW available. I'm curious what is typical in Japan.
@@-Enginerd It’s a great little unit for sure! I do manage to run my house on just the 3kW, but there are times where I do wish I had more power to play with. I could add another MultiPlus in parallel or in a split phase configuration, but it’s not really worth the extra money. I’m also pushing the limits of what i can do on 24V. As for grid power, I’m not connected at all, 100% independent. Newer houses in Japan typically have a 40A split phase service. So 8kW at 200V. You can request higher amp service up to around 100A 3 phase. But it’s doesn’t make sense for most people. Japanese houses are pretty small compared to homes in the US so they can be quite energy efficient. Smaller mini split A/C units have been standard for decades here which help lower power usage.
@@ZaiFuchigami Hey that's awesome! Thank you for the detailed response. Yes, American homes are oversized and inefficient just like our vehicles. 😕 The good news is the brilliance of mini split systems are finally being recognized here and installs have been ramping up significantly in the past several years.
Brilliant system. Don’t think you have enough solar for your battery capacity but then yiu don’t draw much power so you could probably run for 2 weeks with no sun!
Hi, great project and probably the best video and explanation on this type of project. Just one question regarding the contactor, which contactor did you use and how did you connect it to the simpbms, I have tried the original one from the battery that is a Gigavac GV200-004 but cannot figure out the connection to the simpbms from the manual? thanks
Man, Thanks, so interesting. Amazing job was done. Would like to hear feedback after few years, how it system feeling still running, any isue to improve or all perfect since beginning
Thanks :) The system has been working great running 24/7 for well over 3 years now. I did do a couple upgrades in that time which have improved the system all together. I added a Raspberry Pi 3 running Victron Venus OS monitoring all the Victron components in VRM with remote access capability. I then removed the old daisy chained loop cable connections to each module and got a custom solid busbar going across the entire stack with smaller angled busbars from each terminal. After that I added a much larger 100mm2 battery cable from the battery to the upper section and re did the distribution area. I removed the old Chinese MCBs and replaced them with Blue Sea Systems 187 series breakers and another custom solid busbar distribution system connected to each one. Then I added a second solar array with 6 445W shingled panels for an additional 2.6kWp of solar power, and another Victron SmartSolar 150/100Tr charge controller for the new array. I basically completely re built both the upper section and lower section since this video :)
Full tutorial series on this with explanations of why you need each component and how to assemble and wire would be amazing! What is your background? Electrical engineering?
That’s a great idea, maybe I’ll make a series in the future! My background isn’t really electrical engineering in the professional sense. I’m actually self taught using the internet (mostly Google & TH-cam) to learn and study electromechanical engineering.
@@ZaiFuchigami Any chance you could share which websites in particular you used to teach yourself EE? I’m wanting to do a similar project, any help is appreciated!
Thanks for your video. I found it helpful but can I ask why you have a huge battery but only 2.3kw of pannels? I would expect this to take over 3 days to charge the batteries which makes the battery size pointless unless you suffer from blackouts? Why would you not go for a larger inverter given the size of the battery?
It is very likely that he is not around always or his consumption is very low. Battery will provide enough use for a week during periods of bad weather. Inverter size is based on the largest equipment he wants to power and not battery size
I actually installed a Raspberry Pi 3 running Victron VenusOS linked up to every Victron unit in my system. It’s connected to the internet so VRM is working. Was super cheap to install and provides all the features of a GX unit. I did it after the video was made so it wasn’t covered.
I have it connected to the MPPT, BMV and MultiPlus. The SimpBMS doesn’t really provide much more info than what’s already gathered from the Victron stuff so it’s not connected as of now.
I'm not well versed in electrical engineering, but you could have reduced your costs if you went for solar inverter like goodwe? which comes with combined MPPT and battery charger
Takes about 30 hours of full sunlight to charge the battery, which is around 5-6 days worth of sun. But since I use around half of what I generate a day during the day, it takes longer. so around 10-15 days would be normal. But this is mostly due to the lack of roof space I have. you could add more panels to charge faster.
Where did you source your batteries? I can only find the modules for about $1k per module , but you bought 16 modules for ~$6k! I'm trying to have a similar, albeit smaller system inside a van
I found the pack on Yahoo auction in Japan. Haven’t found another one for sale since. Just got really lucky. Took over 4 years to find something like that
You could definitely go off grid too. In summer my consumption is around 6-8kWh a day. It really depends of what the weather is like where you live. That determines how much solar you need. I’m adding an additional solar array bringing up the total to around 5.5kWp. Up from the current 2.8kWp. Need more in rainy season.
It actually isn't a limiting factor for my setup. Tesla modules have active liquid cooling (and heating) to manage the pack temp rise during supercharging where power can go higher than 150kW. Since my max power going in or out of the battery bank never goes above 5kW, cooling isn't required because the cells don't heat up at such low c-rates. And since the modules are inside the house where there is always climate control, the batteries are never exposed to damaging temperatures or conditions.
Dude where did you get a Model S pack for 5800$ shipped? I just bought two modules I'm doing a 10kw system and they cost 2400$ tax + shipping. Looking for a good BMS to use but this one is pretty high 700$ for only two modules, what would you suggest? Thanks for the Video and take it Easy Man! Casey
Bought that pack from Yahoo Auction here in Japan. There’s basically zero demand for Tesla parts and batteries here so it was heavy undervalued compared to the prices in the states. Seems to have been a one off though. If you plan on hooking the two modules you have in series, you could get away with any old 12S 48v BMS and two Tesla module breakout boards to replace the slave BMS’. The SimpBMS is actually only around $350. Still expensive but very good.
@@ZaiFuchigamiThat's heck of a deal. I really appreciate your insight on what bms to use. So I can just get a bms for Li 48v and hook it to both modules on those boards. That's way easier than what I was planning! Thanks!
Hey Zia, Awesome build. ❤ Love it. I live south of La Paz Mexico. In 2015, 9 years ago, I built our home out in the desert. No grid available. I bought 22 used Tesla batteries from demolished Smart cars. These are 54V nominal lithium batteries made by Tesla. At the time each used battery cost me $1,000 USD. I connected all 22 batteries with a machined bus bar and used NO BMS. I have been running my house that has multiple 2 ton air conditioners since 2015 with no problem. My QUESTION to you is if you used no BMS how much cheaper would your system be? I’m selling my Mexican house in moving back to the states so I will need to rebuild my system in the USA for my new house. I very much like your system. Much love from Mexico ❤. Also have no fear of heat for you batteries it gets really hot where I live and I am on top of a volcano vent. Your home will never get hot enough to cause a problem for the batteries unless the house burns down first. For inverter and MPPT I am using a Schneider 6848 and 200/80 MPPT.
Hi! Thanks for the kind words! Your systems sounds great, its always cool to see others DIY-ing their own off gris setups. If I didn't use a BMS the total cost would only go down around $400USD, or the cost of the simpBMS itself. The benefit of using the simpBMS is the simplicity of setup as it uses the original Tesla slave BMS boards and original Tesla wiring harness. It's almost plug and play reading data from only 4 pins from the daisy chained wiring harness. Adding a BMS to your system would be slightly more difficult as the 54V Tesla SmartCar modules don't have slave BMS boards and you'd have to use a multi channel BMS board like a Batrium or Orion system reading cell data from the balance connector.
I added a second array and second charge controller after this so I have a bit over 5,500Wp of solar installed. I have some shading issues and a current bottleneck from using 24v which limits the total power I can harness. My current record is 22kWh of solar generation in one day.
Those walls need to be covered at least with a 5/8 drywall inside with plastering on all the edges, joints and screws, you are taking a big risk of fire remember this advice "Safety first" at all times.
RE: Battery Modules in the house Why did you not consider the risk of a battery fire, which is uncontrollable, during the planning stage? In the event of a battery fire, your whole house will burn down with it. Have you had no other option, e.g. storing them outside in a purpose build concrete block housing to keep the fire hazard away from the house, outside but adjacent to the house wall closest to the cabinet with all the electronics?
i guess they are li-cobalt. Liquid cooling would dramatically increase safety even if the loop has no radiator. Because Runaway is less likely with running coolant.
These modules are from 2014, but they look new since they were sealed in the watertight/ dust tight steel casing that houses the them. I should also say that technically these are just battery modules, Integrating them into the whole system makes it a diy Powerwall 👍
You say it's not a tutorial. But I found this one of the most informative and easy to keep up with films on TH-cam.. Great work. And thank you for taking the time to make it. 👍 From an electrical newbie, who now understands a little more.
Absolutely love watching young people making a serious effort, using affordable parts but doing a good job. Well done there :)
If only the older (my) generations were making as much of an effort.
Magnificent setup! If it were me, I would have a clear plexiglass cover showing it off! LOL
Dont forget the led light strip that would express the beauty even more.
@@jozefmrkvicka4223 hell yes
Love this comment
Surely you'd need a beautiful model to stand there and gesticulate. For a product of this standard, a model would be a bare minimum - certainly here in Australia it would be (a very politically correct young blonde in swimmers, naturally). ;-)
@@deldridg Due to the warm environment in that room It would be impolite to ask her to stand there with clothes on.
My god, just 3.47k subscribers.
This is good.
I'm loving it.
You obviously need to give a little more information in videos but man these projects are gem.
Means a lot man! Thank you 👍
@@ZaiFuchigami
Excellent video Zai!
Nice set up there too.
Neat and tidy. Could you tell me the voltage of each bank please. Would love to get hold of a tesla battery for our off grid system instead of the lead acid batteries we have.
@@geepea101able he mentioned that in the video. Each module/bank is 24 volts. He has them all wired in parallel, so even with all 14 banks, he's still at 24 volts.
None the less, I envy this guys setup a lot, straight GOALS right here. Maybe one day!
Beautifully done! I built a smaller system, a 5.3 kWh Tesla battery/inverter/dual solar controller power system in a 29" long aluminum toolbox, also with mostly Victron parts. It's sort of portable *if* you can lift 100+ lbs.
Do you have schematics for your build?
"that's something that people pointed out in my previous video so i fixed that" got my like, world needs more people like you
Just installed a big system myself in Newzealand, that's an brilliant walk threw, we'll done.
Super nice build 👍😄 i’m starting to buy victron parts but i will go with the multiplus 2 5000 watt x3 to get 3 phase 380 volt ,
and solar array around 20 kw
and 100-200 kw/h battery’s..
That sounds like a hell of a system! Hope you’re doing a video on it, would be awesome to see it
You should be an instructor, your voice and word is clear I'm no electrician or how any of this thing works but listening to you I feel like I van easily be an electrician . Great job. I want your brain for a few days.
Very exciting to see you using major components and electronics from the pack, rather than pulling out thousands of loose batteries and building something from scratch. I would love to see someone make a business of this - selling power wall solutions for relatively cheap.
No one in their right mind would do that. Huge responsibility if something goes wrong with older and used battery packs and for what, 'relatively' small profit.
This wall is way more powerful than any other things! Thanks alot for the tour! 💯
On current balancing on your batteries -- the opposite corner connection method does not balance your peak currents beyond two batteries, but it is better than taking both connections from one side. Your cross connect cables and battery modules form a multi-stage low pass filter, and charge is first provided to or from the batteries on each end, but the center batteries are always five time constants (or more, as the number of batteries goes up) behind to get to 99% current of the batteries on the ends. Eventually, the batteries in the middle will equalize (in *voltage* , not current) to the end batteries after enough time, but the tail current is always a superposition of all the stacked currents from all the modules.
The result of all this is that your charger may or may not fully charge all the modules in the middle before it shuts down, and the middle batteries are not doing the same work as the ends.. It depends on the tail current algorithm, and how much resting period there is to allow the voltages to equalize, etc.
There are two ways to balance all the currents; one is to home run all modules with equal length, equal resistance cables to a common post, or two, to use multiple corner symetry in your battery cabling, which may be impractical with these big modules.
You can model the system using a circuit simulator, but use supercapacitor RC equivalents with IC (initial condition) set to your lowest battery voltage. A fixed voltage battery model doesn't charge up like a real battery. A fixed voltage battery model *will* show you the initial condition when charge is first applied, and how far they are out of balance at time t(0).
It's wonderful to be able to access insights from experts such as yourself. One question arises - at what point do the relative cell charging characteristic tolerances make fine balancing irrelevant beyond a certain point? It appears that the starting point is to assume the batteries are identical. Is there a test to determine such things? Just wondering. Cheers and thank you, from Sydney - Dave
Great video, thanks Zai! Would love it if you did an in depth video of setting up the SIMP BMS too.
There's no way in hell, that I would put that much dense lithium in my house. I'd have that sucker on the side of the house in a different building that if it burnt down oh well you know lol. It's a great setup so don't get me wrong. I just would not have that in my house because all it takes is one bad cell to catch fire and then you lose everything.
I agree I would also have them in a steel box and make sure that I had multiple ABC fire extinguishers.
House insurance?
Bro everybody says the same comment but you really don't know how the fuck lithium works and until you take an educational course on it rather than 2 seconds of Googling oh my God lithium is dangerous like a fucking dumb fuck then hold your comment there's this thing called a BMS a battery management system if you know what the fuck you're doing clearly you don't but this kid does he has a fucking engineering degree and knows how to correctly set it up so no it's not dangerous especially when it's stationary versus in a fucking moving vehicle that can have collisions and oh it was designed for that so sit the fuck down I'll pull out the chair for you
On this episode of boomers say the darnedest things:
Is your system connected to your house breaker box and if yes, what amount of permitting you had to do with (TEPCO?) the power company?
I live down in Miura and in a few months, I was thinking of starting to add panels to supplement my house's energy needs...
Got fully electric house so eco-cute/oven/IH/AC/washing machine take quite a lot of power...
Congratulation on a nice setup. I currently use a 775AH 48V FLA forklift battery for my off grid solar system. It works well but I could do with more capacity, I would love a Tesla battery like you have but unfortunately they are in short supply and expensive here in Australia. I use the same breakers for AC and DC and have found them to be very good too.
This channel deserves much more subscribers than it has.
Great videos. Am just curious how you don’t have more content on here. Especially with the Nissan Leaf
That came together nicely, well done!
Absolutely beautiful, thanks for the details
Very wise to use well established components from Tesla. Very nice 👍🏻
If there’s a blackout and no one knew when the power was coming back. How long do you thing you can run from battery alone?
And have you ever thought of a second way to charge up you batteries if it ran all week?
That’s a good question, calculating based on my current daily consumption I could go without sun for over two weeks. If I try to conserve and not use power unnecessary I could go longer. As for charging the battery if it ran down low, I explained in my video that the Victron MultiPlus has an AC charging function such allows a generator to be hooked up to charge.
@@ZaiFuchigami ah ok great. How long will it take to fully charge them with generator?
It’ll take about 40 hours from fully discharged. Although I’m more likely to just charge a bit every day and not run the generator continuously.
Good Job Man!!! Great setup. Love it. Hope to see more of your solar projects.
awesome video I saw the price of the powerwall and searched for someone using the tesla car battery and found this great video
Thank You so much, very kind of Yours to share the great work You've done
Great video. A lot of people place comments, but few actually build this.
Thanks, a lot of keyboard warriors on YT
If space wasn't an issue why couldn't you use the whole encase battery as is - and connect it to the rest of the system with the added bonus of being able to thermal control the heat disepation if needed ?
I will suggest adding a couple of AFO balls in the DB case, in case the things go south. Neat work though 🙌
Hey man! Great job!
Can you make an update video of the system?
How's it been performing? Any stats you can share, etc?
This is a nice setup you got going on there.
Would it be possible to use the battery pack in it's original state, aka without removing the modules, and do something similar to power a mobile home/trailer/caravan? Asking because I do live in a could country (-20C, -25C). So coolant for keeping it warm in winter and cold in summer would be nice.
Nice clear video Zai thankyou.
I also have a 3 kVA Multiplus and MPPT charge controller to set up , Can i ask what settings you used to interface with those battery modules so they partied nicely together ?
Nice job 👍. I am thinking of doing something similar in our basement. How are the cells doing after 2 years? Has the simp BMS had to disconnect the contactor at all?
Thanks! Cells are doing great, no issues with cell going out of balance or any corrosion issues. The cell balance is still holding steady at 5mV delta across all 14 modules. The BMS did trip the contactor twice during a patch of near zero sun during our rainy season. Supplemented with a gas generator.
Inspiring. My house has very low requirement 11-12 kWh/day (Passivhaus standard). Already have 14kWh storage but considering supplementing with Nissan Leaf batteries when my Nissan Leaf needs to be scrapped. I'll keep watching. Thanks for very informative video.
This answers my question about using Tesla batteries for a battery bank
Great setup. I see that you used tomzn dx breakers between the charge controler, the inverter and the batteries. Unless I'm wrong, those dc breaker are one way, what means they can only handle current goi g in one direction. Or have you used one for the charge controler and another for the inverter?
Very well done. Very impressive. Good depth of knowledge. Thanks for taking the time to create your video.
Nice looking setup! Aren’t the Tesla car batteries going to overheat Since there’s no coolant system cooling them! And since they’re within a half inch of each other! shouldn’t they be spaced at least 3 to 4 inches apart with an intake fan and exhaust fan taking the heat out of the cabinet and the intake bringing from the room into the cabinet
I don't think so since the power input and power draw aren't huge like a car... unless I'm wrong about that
EDIT: he actually addresses this in the video
Scotty is right. I don’t draw enough power from the modules to heat them up at all. They actually can’t heat up until you draw upwards of 10-20kW. Because of that fans or spacing aren’t required. The active components like the inverter and charge controller do have fans.
Amazing setup ! how on earth did you learn how to do all that ?
TH-cam ;-)
NICE! This will be one of the the first projects after purchasing a home. I'd have to limit the daily usage of my gaming entertainment system rigged to the home theatre system, which will have to be on separate breakers. HAHA.
How well do the solar panels work? Ive just purchased 6-300watt flexible panels for a airstream camper project and have room for 12 more if needed, all vents and A/C removed so I’ve got 28 feet of roof to work with. Ive got everything you have as far as Victron 24/3000 UL version and the 150/100 Mttp. Question though, Why choose the Tesla batt when you could purchase cells and build 8 or 12 24v 100 ah Batt w/24v BMS? Allowing a very easy swap if any cell were to fail, vrs Tesla and also the cells have a 5000/10year warranty? Thanks in advance if you have time to reply. PS nice set up and if the panels are in-fact 315watt could you point me to where you purchased as I plan on making a portable array to be plugged into the roof array as everything in this build will run off the solar so wattage is a must for 24/7 operation
the question is where can you get that price for the tesla pack? ebay, auction ? seriously please let me know i am interested and cool stuff.
very interesting.. do you think it would be possible to grab a tesla power wall and upgrade it with those batteries to effectively have a huge power wall that uses their app and hence be able to get the upgrades and all that?
Maybe there would be a way to sneak more modules in in parallel....
Great video. I'm a little puzzled as to why you would have such a huge battery storage yet you only have a 2.8 kw solar system to charge it. It just seems overkill on the storage part. I don't get it.
Installed the array before the Tesla modules when I had a much smaller 14kWh Nissan Leaf battery bank. It was sized relatively correctly for that older system, so In comparison to the 60kWh of storage it seems small. I got the deal on the whole Tesla P85 pack so it wasn’t like I got 14 individual modules for it... Though I plan to add hydro and potentially more panels down the line.
@@ZaiFuchigami Okay, I didn't know you were planning to ad hydro or additional panels. I only saw what you had in the previous video. Sunpower has 415 watt panels, which is the highest wattage panels in the industry and which is what I have on my roof (4.9 kw system) if you are planning to additional solar panels; that is what I would go with. Either way, great job on the configuration!
Some video is better than none for sure! Thanks, it was useful!
Why not use an existing Sma sunnyboy or equivalent charge controller inverter?
Don't know if anyone has asked or if you have done it. I'd like to see a complete list of components and how you wired everything in. This was a way cool video. Thank you.
Listed in the description
I'm planning on building a solar system. I've just ordered 30 used 250 watt solar panels, $51 each delivery to my door.
@sawmiller smith - mind giving up the source ?
@@albergaharriott5257 you can find them on ebay. Lots of used solar panels for sale.
Good setup and a great video very informative
Absolutely crazy project! Love it!
i have 2 model S battery in my Van - Victron Charger+ inverter- 650 watts flexible solar -
i charge Sur ron Ebike - built system 3 yrs ago - have parts to quick charge with EV chargers but have not needed yet - your system very nice / clean
Thanks for sharing. You mentioned you are in Japan - anything regarding earthquake protection to prevent fire... in case something falls on the cells or cause a short ...? OK, if a quake is so powerful that the whole house collapses it does not mattter any more, but a smaller one...
i only see one issue, the way you wired it is drawing first the first tesla battery as you have +/- on the same and not + on 1st tesla and - on the last tesla by doing this insure full discharge and full charge to all at the same time.
Zai, What a great set up and video. Maybe it's obvious to some people, but I was wondering why you didn't use all of the Tesla battery modules? Follow-up question...Can you add more modules in the future for more capacity?
To be honest I should explained that in the video. The 14 modules I installed is more than enough energy to power my house so i though I’d save the other two. One modules I used for its cells to be built into smaller battery packs to power small devices. One modules has 444 basically perfectly balanced and high quality 18650 cells that would cost north of $1000 if bought as loose cells. The other module I’ll keep intact for another solar system in a workshop. To answer your last question, yes, you could add more modules in parallel to Increase capacity, but you could run into balancing issues if the modules you add aren’t degraded to the similar degree as the already installed ones. I don’t plan to add anymore as again, it’s more than enough capacity but, I also doubt another one of these pack will come out to the market in Japan anytime soon.
Great video. What are the charge parameters your programed into the MPPT?
Forgive my lack of knowledge on Japan's electrical grid, but my understanding is that they use a 100VAC system. Do you have to worry about damaging any of your devices when using the 120VAC Inverter? The 20V delta is a bit past the +/- 10% tolerance that devices typically permit.
The MultiPlus I used is one of the few inverters that can actually be programmed down to 100VAC from its default of 120VAC. So it’s outputting the correct voltage for all my Japanese appliances. I have it set to 101VAC to account for some voltage drop in wiring, but it’s extremely stable.
@@ZaiFuchigami I did not know the MultiPlus could do that. That's awesome!
Do you manage to run your entire house on that 3 kVA (≈3 kW) Inverter or are you also grid connected? As you may already know, most modern houses in the States have a 200A service at 240V, so 48 kW available. I'm curious what is typical in Japan.
@@-Enginerd It’s a great little unit for sure! I do manage to run my house on just the 3kW, but there are times where I do wish I had more power to play with. I could add another MultiPlus in parallel or in a split phase configuration, but it’s not really worth the extra money. I’m also pushing the limits of what i can do on 24V.
As for grid power, I’m not connected at all, 100% independent.
Newer houses in Japan typically have a 40A split phase service. So 8kW at 200V. You can request higher amp service up to around 100A 3 phase. But it’s doesn’t make sense for most people. Japanese houses are pretty small compared to homes in the US so they can be quite energy efficient. Smaller mini split A/C units have been standard for decades here which help lower power usage.
@@ZaiFuchigami Hey that's awesome! Thank you for the detailed response.
Yes, American homes are oversized and inefficient just like our vehicles. 😕 The good news is the brilliance of mini split systems are finally being recognized here and installs have been ramping up significantly in the past several years.
Is this the house you live in / can you tell a bit more about what this system powers?
11k for 85 kwh powerwall is very cheap. I paid 18k for 2 13.5 kwh powerwalls including gateway from Tesla. Tesla charges 7k for each powerwall
My thoughts exactly. 11k is an amazing bargain for that setup. I was fully expecting cost to be at least 20k.
Brilliant system. Don’t think you have enough solar for your battery capacity but then yiu don’t draw much power so you could probably run for 2 weeks with no sun!
Hi, great project and probably the best video and explanation on this type of project. Just one question regarding the contactor, which contactor did you use and how did you connect it to the simpbms, I have tried the original one from the battery that is a Gigavac GV200-004 but cannot figure out the connection to the simpbms from the manual? thanks
Man, Thanks, so interesting. Amazing job was done.
Would like to hear feedback after few years, how it system feeling still running, any isue to improve or all perfect since beginning
Thanks :)
The system has been working great running 24/7 for well over 3 years now. I did do a couple upgrades in that time which have improved the system all together.
I added a Raspberry Pi 3 running Victron Venus OS monitoring all the Victron components in VRM with remote access capability.
I then removed the old daisy chained loop cable connections to each module and got a custom solid busbar going across the entire stack with smaller angled busbars from each terminal.
After that I added a much larger 100mm2 battery cable from the battery to the upper section and re did the distribution area. I removed the old Chinese MCBs and replaced them with Blue Sea Systems 187 series breakers and another custom solid busbar distribution system connected to each one.
Then I added a second solar array with 6 445W shingled panels for an additional 2.6kWp of solar power, and another Victron SmartSolar 150/100Tr charge controller for the new array. I basically completely re built both the upper section and lower section since this video :)
Full tutorial series on this with explanations of why you need each component and how to assemble and wire would be amazing! What is your background? Electrical engineering?
That’s a great idea, maybe I’ll make a series in the future! My background isn’t really electrical engineering in the professional sense. I’m actually self taught using the internet (mostly Google & TH-cam) to learn and study electromechanical engineering.
@@ZaiFuchigami awesome man, I hope you find the time
Bruise Oh man, me too :)
@@ZaiFuchigami Any chance you could share which websites in particular you used to teach yourself EE? I’m wanting to do a similar project, any help is appreciated!
@@ZaiFuchigami please share with us the main internet sites where you studied . Thank you very much!
Thanks for your video. I found it helpful but can I ask why you have a huge battery but only 2.3kw of pannels? I would expect this to take over 3 days to charge the batteries which makes the battery size pointless unless you suffer from blackouts? Why would you not go for a larger inverter given the size of the battery?
It is very likely that he is not around always or his consumption is very low.
Battery will provide enough use for a week during periods of bad weather.
Inverter size is based on the largest equipment he wants to power and not battery size
Loving your content. How’s the hydrogen generator coming along? Hope to get some updates from you 😇
Is there a reason you didn't install a Victron GX, like the Cerbo? Can talk to the Simp BMS over CAN, as well as VRM which is great.
I actually installed a Raspberry Pi 3 running Victron VenusOS linked up to every Victron unit in my system. It’s connected to the internet so VRM is working. Was super cheap to install and provides all the features of a GX unit. I did it after the video was made so it wasn’t covered.
@@ZaiFuchigami oh awesome, do you have it connected to the MPPT and SimpBMS?
I have it connected to the MPPT, BMV and MultiPlus. The SimpBMS doesn’t really provide much more info than what’s already gathered from the Victron stuff so it’s not connected as of now.
Nice setup! No SPD's?
I'm not well versed in electrical engineering, but you could have reduced your costs if you went for solar inverter like goodwe? which comes with combined MPPT and battery charger
However you got ahold of those Tesla packs for 5k I have no idea. That’s an amazing price.
Cool project, how long do the panels take to fully charge the battery pack? I plan on doing something similar in the future.
Takes about 30 hours of full sunlight to charge the battery, which is around 5-6 days worth of sun. But since I use around half of what I generate a day during the day, it takes longer. so around 10-15 days would be normal. But this is mostly due to the lack of roof space I have. you could add more panels to charge faster.
@@ZaiFuchigami Nice, how did you end up getting that battery? The cost for this project is pretty impressive.
Where did you source your batteries? I can only find the modules for about $1k per module , but you bought 16 modules for ~$6k!
I'm trying to have a similar, albeit smaller system inside a van
I found the pack on Yahoo auction in Japan. Haven’t found another one for sale since. Just got really lucky. Took over 4 years to find something like that
Thanks for replying! I guess I'll set up some alerts on some websites and hopefully I get lucky as well.
I think that’s the only way to get a good deal. Good luck on your search!
Thank uou thank uou thank uou uoung man. It was an eye opener watching this video. I subbed to follow your channel.
Very well explained. Like it 👍👍👍
You make it so simple...WOW
great work, Buddy ☺️☺️
Só um louco faria isso
A cada tem seguro integral?
Nice Job!
Hi Zai, do you think my house has a consumption of 7/8 kilovatt in 24 hours, could I go off-grid with a system like yours?
You could definitely go off grid too. In summer my consumption is around 6-8kWh a day. It really depends of what the weather is like where you live. That determines how much solar you need. I’m adding an additional solar array bringing up the total to around 5.5kWp. Up from the current 2.8kWp. Need more in rainy season.
come out with that hydro project pls :P
Nice video mate
Your biggest limiting factor here will be heat. Tesla packs are liquid cooled for a reason. They maintain a very specific temperature gradient.
It actually isn't a limiting factor for my setup. Tesla modules have active liquid cooling (and heating) to manage the pack temp rise during supercharging where power can go higher than 150kW. Since my max power going in or out of the battery bank never goes above 5kW, cooling isn't required because the cells don't heat up at such low c-rates. And since the modules are inside the house where there is always climate control, the batteries are never exposed to damaging temperatures or conditions.
Your job is impressive. thank you for interesting video
Dude where did you get a Model S pack for 5800$ shipped?
I just bought two modules I'm doing a 10kw system and they cost 2400$ tax + shipping.
Looking for a good BMS to use but this one is pretty high 700$ for only two modules, what would you suggest?
Thanks for the Video and take it Easy Man!
Casey
Bought that pack from Yahoo Auction here in Japan. There’s basically zero demand for Tesla parts and batteries here so it was heavy undervalued compared to the prices in the states. Seems to have been a one off though.
If you plan on hooking the two modules you have in series, you could get away with any old 12S 48v BMS and two Tesla module breakout boards to replace the slave BMS’. The SimpBMS is actually only around $350. Still expensive but very good.
@@ZaiFuchigamiThat's heck of a deal. I really appreciate your insight on what bms to use. So I can just get a bms for Li 48v and hook it to both modules on those boards. That's way easier than what I was planning!
Thanks!
You did you a great job…. May i know more and talk to you about this system??
Hey Zia, Awesome build. ❤ Love it. I live south of La Paz Mexico. In 2015, 9 years ago, I built our home out in the desert. No grid available. I bought 22 used Tesla batteries from demolished Smart cars. These are 54V nominal lithium batteries made by Tesla. At the time each used battery cost me $1,000 USD. I connected all 22 batteries with a machined bus bar and used NO BMS. I have been running my house that has multiple 2 ton air conditioners since 2015 with no problem. My QUESTION to you is if you used no BMS how much cheaper would your system be? I’m selling my Mexican house in moving back to the states so I will need to rebuild my system in the USA for my new house. I very much like your system. Much love from Mexico ❤. Also have no fear of heat for you batteries it gets really hot where I live and I am on top of a volcano vent. Your home will never get hot enough to cause a problem for the batteries unless the house burns down first. For inverter and MPPT I am using a Schneider 6848 and 200/80 MPPT.
Hi! Thanks for the kind words! Your systems sounds great, its always cool to see others DIY-ing their own off gris setups. If I didn't use a BMS the total cost would only go down around $400USD, or the cost of the simpBMS itself. The benefit of using the simpBMS is the simplicity of setup as it uses the original Tesla slave BMS boards and original Tesla wiring harness. It's almost plug and play reading data from only 4 pins from the daisy chained wiring harness. Adding a BMS to your system would be slightly more difficult as the 54V Tesla SmartCar modules don't have slave BMS boards and you'd have to use a multi channel BMS board like a Batrium or Orion system reading cell data from the balance connector.
How does this system cool? Is there a separate system I’m missing?
GREAT VIDEO BUDDY....👍
what are the charge / discharge settings ......like 26vdc max and 23vdc drain ....thanks
You have 2835W of solar for charging. How much power do they generate in a typical day?
I added a second array and second charge controller after this so I have a bit over 5,500Wp of solar installed. I have some shading issues and a current bottleneck from using 24v which limits the total power I can harness. My current record is 22kWh of solar generation in one day.
Those walls need to be covered at least with a 5/8 drywall inside with plastering on all the edges, joints and screws, you are taking a big risk of fire remember this advice "Safety first" at all times.
Drywall isn’t going to help much if a actual thermal runaway situation occurs.
Very informative vidio
How i can bay full system with battery in pakistan cost plz
That bank looks like it will over heat, you need to put space between cell banks
I found the video to be great - any comments now, 3 years into its use how it's working. All good or any comments you'd like to add?
Love it, inspiering!
Was wondering how did you end up without permit with that installation in your house + solar panels ... and I then I found you live in Japan :-)
RE: Battery Modules in the house
Why did you not consider the risk of a battery fire, which is uncontrollable, during the planning stage? In the event of a battery fire, your whole house will burn down with it. Have you had no other option, e.g. storing them outside in a purpose build concrete block housing to keep the fire hazard away from the house, outside but adjacent to the house wall closest to the cabinet with all the electronics?
i guess they are li-cobalt. Liquid cooling would dramatically increase safety even if the loop has no radiator. Because Runaway is less likely with running coolant.
you can place a tub benath the battery in case of fluid leakage
Well done. How old are those powerwalls? They look like new
These modules are from 2014, but they look new since they were sealed in the watertight/ dust tight steel casing that houses the them. I should also say that technically these are just battery modules, Integrating them into the whole system makes it a diy Powerwall 👍
You've got cool stuff Dude loved it keep going... 👍
Great video
You're supposed to mount the equipment on a non-combustible substrate.
Great job.
Great video! Nice and cool project. Big brain 😊