➤ Replace the tie rods with the help of these tools: Floor jack/car lift - amzn.to/3AEkKoU Jack Stands - amzn.to/41Gulr6 Tie rods - advanceautoparts.rt8x.net/x97NoA PB Blaster - goto.walmart.com/c/3482872/565706/9383?veh=aff&sourceid=imp_000011112222333344&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fip%2FPB-Blaster-Penetrant-Rust-Remover-Automotive-Marine-Plumbing-11oz%2F934902678%3Fathbdg%3DL1200%26from%3DsearchResults Electric Torque - amzn.to/3L7p5pf Socket set - amzn.to/3VeCZuy Locking pliers - amzn.to/3LBQWzt Pick - amzn.to/40OtTG8 Tie rod removal tool - amzn.to/3n81uwO Blue lock tight - amzn.to/3At1yKy Zip ties - amzn.to/41Zh5NV Torque wrench - amzn.to/420fXKc ▶︎ OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS ▶︎ CAR REPAIR MANUAL: www.gopjn.com/t/SENKTklLS01DSE1NS0lOQ0dKRk9LTw (Use code AD10VA for 15% off one-year subscriptions for any US Order) ▶︎ Have car-related questions? Check out JustAnswer! They have verified auto mechanics that are available as live help 24/7: justanswer.9pctbx.net/qndBon
Note to anyone reading this: Be careful on the torque specs, as every car chassis is different. For example, 25ft-lbs is not even close to enough for German cars. My Mercedes has those ball joints/nuts torqued to 38 ft-lbs and then 90 degrees beyond that (ends up being about 105 ft-lbs, which is 4 times the 25 you used).
Friend let me tell ypu that I love the way you did this video. I get insainly sick of hearing people who clearly love there own voice talking about bs and finally getting to there video then don't know anymore than me . Sorry I'm not trying to learn how to do with someone . I want to see how it's done as fast as posible. You executed this need perfectly.
Great video, straight to the point and no bull. I watched a video a few minutes ago that said "tie rod replacement" and it took almost 7 minutes before he even mentioned the tie rod ends🙄🙄
Pre-greased outer tie rods, I suppose? (Many come without that step completed prior to purchase/ delivery; we must install grease fitting, then grease after install with flexible fitting on grease gun, with properly rated grease.) Hope this helps also, and be well
I've been having alignment issues with my 98 mustang cobra. I thought it could be the inner tie rods and yesterday when I was leaving work, I turned and heard clunking sound from the right front and pretty much confirmed it.
Be careful on the torque specs, as every car chassis is different. For example, 25ft-lbs is not even close to enough for German cars. My Mercedes has those ball joints/nuts torqued to 38 ft-lbs and then 90 degrees beyond that (ends up being about 105 ft-lbs, which is 4 times the 25 you used).
I changed a outer tie rod end today. I took off the castle nut, put it back on. Hit with a hammer. Came off. I had a very difficult time getting the castle nut back off and the shaft kept spinning. I did finally get it off and replaced with a lot of cussing. Next time, I won't put the castle nut back to hit. Hit it anyway. I'm replacing it.
I borrowed the very same tie rod tool from Oreillys and it couldn’t hold it. It couldn’t hold it to get it off . It kept slipping. Read all the instructions and used the wrench end that was closest to size . Still couldn’t get a grip kept skipping. Yeah I locked it in
I ordered the inner tie rod, and the ones I received are shorter than the original. passenger side took 17 turns to take off and 16 on driver side. Assembling back the passenger side took 15 turns, and driver side is only 10 is that safe?
If you can't afford to do both or something and both aren't bad then nothing but its just more practical to do both together. They wear at a similar rate ,when 1 goes it won't be long before the other does but worst case is you basically do the job twice if not changing them together, it's not gonna cause any issues if you dont assuming the other isn't bad of course
I have learned to ‘start the job’ about a week before! Do the lube thing, as a pre-lube ie it’s best to even speculatively lube a bit around all suspension threads with grease, whenever you take the wheels off. My mechanic says it’s a bit amateur to have grease everywhere…totally agree, any professional lets it rust up ready to need de-seized next time! No, fair do’s, that’s a reasonable perspective when you don’t own the car. However, owning the car, I told my mechanic: ‘Thing is, I’ve never had something I greased-over, fall off or unscrew. What I HAVE had repeatedly, is un-greased stuff, refuse to come apart without terrible hammering and ruined threads, and nuts that have rusted to one size down in size’…ie a 16mm turns into a 15mm in practice, and rust has no strength if you try to spanner on it, it crumbles as we all know. This pre-emptive lubrication/pre-greasing, works for me quite well. If you don’t want to do it, that’s fine too. Take care all. [Edit: the best grease, might be thick hi-temp brake grease, for this pre-lubing approach. It’s so claggy it hardly ever comes off, or flows where it shouldn’t. And, when heated, the oils in it come out, but my experience is, this wicks directly into the threads of the joint/fastener etc. I’ve used both ordinary grease and hi-temp brake grease, without an issue, for pre-greasing. Take care.]
You didn't grease the new inner tie rod end joint, before putting the boot back on. And what grease was on it already !? Yellow grease? I would be making sure its a lithium molybdenum grease.
➤ Replace the tie rods with the help of these tools:
Floor jack/car lift - amzn.to/3AEkKoU
Jack Stands - amzn.to/41Gulr6
Tie rods - advanceautoparts.rt8x.net/x97NoA
PB Blaster - goto.walmart.com/c/3482872/565706/9383?veh=aff&sourceid=imp_000011112222333344&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fip%2FPB-Blaster-Penetrant-Rust-Remover-Automotive-Marine-Plumbing-11oz%2F934902678%3Fathbdg%3DL1200%26from%3DsearchResults
Electric Torque - amzn.to/3L7p5pf
Socket set - amzn.to/3VeCZuy
Locking pliers - amzn.to/3LBQWzt
Pick - amzn.to/40OtTG8
Tie rod removal tool - amzn.to/3n81uwO
Blue lock tight - amzn.to/3At1yKy
Zip ties - amzn.to/41Zh5NV
Torque wrench - amzn.to/420fXKc
▶︎ OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS
▶︎ CAR REPAIR MANUAL:
www.gopjn.com/t/SENKTklLS01DSE1NS0lOQ0dKRk9LTw
(Use code AD10VA for 15% off one-year subscriptions for any US Order)
▶︎ Have car-related questions? Check out JustAnswer! They have verified auto mechanics that are available as live help 24/7: justanswer.9pctbx.net/qndBon
Note to anyone reading this:
Be careful on the torque specs, as every car chassis is different. For example, 25ft-lbs is not even close to enough for German cars. My Mercedes has those ball joints/nuts torqued to 38 ft-lbs and then 90 degrees beyond that (ends up being about 105 ft-lbs, which is 4 times the 25 you used).
Friend let me tell ypu that I love the way you did this video. I get insainly sick of hearing people who clearly love there own voice talking about bs and finally getting to there video then don't know anymore than me . Sorry I'm not trying to learn how to do with someone . I want to see how it's done as fast as posible. You executed this need perfectly.
Very nice thank you!
Jeez man ! Good video buddy...Not the bullshit ,long long stuff that we get most of the time from some people.They make it look difficult bro
I've watched 15+ of different videos on this, YOURS IS HANDS DOWN THE BEST!
That’s very nice of you, thank you!
This is so great thank you I was feeling intimidated by needing to get new toe rods but after this I feel like I can do it 😅 thanks man
damn, that was great, no fluff, no video effects, no sponsor, no this, no that, perfect. Teach others how to make videos while you're at it.
Very nice, thank you!
Thanks for making this video straight to the point 👍🏽👍🏽
Straight to the point..luv it
I appreicate you!
Thank you. That was easy auto fix.
Thank you!!! You are the first of many who showed the correct tie rod for my car and how to get it off.
He doesn’t mention what car it is lol
A great video, straight to the point and informative. thanks
Thanks, went to get a free alignment done, walked out after the place wanted 1,000 because all the things the supposedly found wrong. Lol
Same thing happened to me lol 😂
Great video, straight to the point and no bull.
I watched a video a few minutes ago that said "tie rod replacement" and it took almost 7 minutes before he even mentioned the tie rod ends🙄🙄
To the point. Exactly the way these types of videos should be.
Thank you!
Pre-greased outer tie rods, I suppose? (Many come without that step completed prior to purchase/ delivery; we must install grease fitting, then grease after install with flexible fitting on grease gun, with properly rated grease.)
Hope this helps also, and be well
I've been having alignment issues with my 98 mustang cobra. I thought it could be the inner tie rods and yesterday when I was leaving work, I turned and heard clunking sound from the right front and pretty much confirmed it.
Great information straight to the point
Do I have to do an alignment again if I just did that very recently?
You should, especially if the old ones had some play
THANKS TO THIS VIDEO 👏👏👏
Thank you!
Awesome video. Thanks 🙏
Thank you!
Had the outer ones replaced and noticed there's some leakage. Steering fluid?
Whats the symptoms of a bad tie rod vs the cv axle
At 2:34 old one looks longer at the bottom, what does that mean for your alignment.
Great video thanks
and thank you!
Great video!
What size is the jam nut on the tip of the inner tie rod?
Great stuff!
Good video
Very nice, thank you!
Can I remove the tie rods to remove the rack and pinion
Be careful on the torque specs, as every car chassis is different. For example, 25ft-lbs is not even close to enough for German cars. My Mercedes has those ball joints/nuts torqued to 38 ft-lbs and then 90 degrees beyond that (ends up being about 105 ft-lbs, which is 4 times the 25 you used).
Nice
Gracias
Gracias a usted
10/10
I changed a outer tie rod end today. I took off the castle nut, put it back on. Hit with a hammer. Came off. I had a very difficult time getting the castle nut back off and the shaft kept spinning. I did finally get it off and replaced with a lot of cussing. Next time, I won't put the castle nut back to hit. Hit it anyway. I'm replacing it.
I borrowed the very same tie rod tool from Oreillys and it couldn’t hold it. It couldn’t hold it to get it off . It kept slipping. Read all the instructions and used the wrench end that was closest to size . Still couldn’t get a grip kept skipping. Yeah I locked it in
I ordered the inner tie rod, and the ones I received are shorter than the original. passenger side took 17 turns to take off and 16 on driver side. Assembling back the passenger side took 15 turns, and driver side is only 10 is that safe?
That was the tie rod ends I was referring to that took 17&16 turns to take off, and 15&10 turns to put on the tie rod ends.
Will the Zip tie hold???
It’s worked for me.
I did all of that but the tool would not move it it just kept sliding around it there are no groups for it to lock onto on my 2001 Saturn
100/10
What happen if we change just one side ?
as long as it's aligned at the shop, nothing, but if one's worn sure enough the other won't be far behind..best do both at once
If you can't afford to do both or something and both aren't bad then nothing but its just more practical to do both together. They wear at a similar rate ,when 1 goes it won't be long before the other does but worst case is you basically do the job twice if not changing them together, it's not gonna cause any issues if you dont assuming the other isn't bad of course
“As far back as I remember, I always wanted to be a gangster”
NEVER USE ZIP TIED IN THE BOOT USE CLAMP ARE STRONGLY AND RESISTANT 👍
I saw that there was no noise 😂
This is way harder when you live in Minnesota I’m having such a hard timee
Soak it with tons of rust penatrant for an hour if that doesn't work try heat.
Rust sucks even here in indiana
Same my shits rusted solid
I forgot to reply the best and easiest way is with a torch
I have learned to ‘start the job’ about a week before! Do the lube thing, as a pre-lube ie it’s best to even speculatively lube a bit around all suspension threads with grease, whenever you take the wheels off. My mechanic says it’s a bit amateur to have grease everywhere…totally agree, any professional lets it rust up ready to need de-seized next time! No, fair do’s, that’s a reasonable perspective when you don’t own the car. However, owning the car, I told my mechanic: ‘Thing is, I’ve never had something I greased-over, fall off or unscrew. What I HAVE had repeatedly, is un-greased stuff, refuse to come apart without terrible hammering and ruined threads, and nuts that have rusted to one size down in size’…ie a 16mm turns into a 15mm in practice, and rust has no strength if you try to spanner on it, it crumbles as we all know. This pre-emptive lubrication/pre-greasing, works for me quite well. If you don’t want to do it, that’s fine too. Take care all. [Edit: the best grease, might be thick hi-temp brake grease, for this pre-lubing approach. It’s so claggy it hardly ever comes off, or flows where it shouldn’t. And, when heated, the oils in it come out, but my experience is, this wicks directly into the threads of the joint/fastener etc. I’ve used both ordinary grease and hi-temp brake grease, without an issue, for pre-greasing. Take care.]
Why is this tutorial presented the ocky way?? 😂
Sure!
I’ll be honest, I didn’t understand one fucking word that was said.
Too much Damn work. Rather to it to the shop
You didn't grease the new inner tie rod end joint, before putting the boot back on. And what grease was on it already !? Yellow grease? I would be making sure its a lithium molybdenum grease.
No xtra grease on ball? Also the boot looked smushed to hell...grease it 2.