It's been very helpful the videos Matthew. Can't thank you enough! Instead of going back to stock cylinder size, I used a Meteor 272 piston 52mm with single Caber ring. Much lighter piston and pin, better quality circlips and ring. When my .8mm gasket paper arrives, I will cut a cylinder base gasket to give me reasonable squish and timing. I completed a cylinder clean up with the Dremel tool, ported out the exhaust cylinder outlet and some porting on the lower transfer ports near the base of the cylinder. Plenty of options for a fuel jet mod on the carburettor and muffler mod if needed. I used the supplied bearings and seals in the crankcase. The Husqvarna crankcase assembly tool doubled up as a timing / degree wheel fitting. Will fit the high top cover and heavy duty filter and unlimited rev coil. Basically that's the general scope of my build. I will post the video of the end result when I have the 372 running in a few weeks time.
I really have to thank you for these videos! I put together my kit by watching these videos and I'm confident that I could not have done it without you as a guide. I even made a flywheel side puller based on your videos. Truly appreciate all that you do!!
Quick tip: Put the crank and bearings in the freezer a few hours before you start. When you're ready to start, get a heat gun and warm the case around where the bearings go, then quickly grab a bearing from the freezer and place it into the case half - it will only take very minimal force to send the bearing home, usually only a few very light taps with a hammer on a suitably sized socket. Repeat this for the other case half. Next you want to prepare the gasket and mating surfaces with some suitable sealant if you're that way inclined, now carefully heat the bearing's inner race(not too much though), then quickly grab the crank out of the freezer and slide it into the case half whose bearing you just warmed - the crankshaft will just push in easily by hand all the way into the bearing. Now also quickly heat the other inner race and slide the case halves together, at this point you should have the halves almost fully together before the ice cold crankshaft cools the bearing down and it starts to bind a bit, if the halves are not quite all the way home you can either run a couple of bolts in and tighten it down carefully to pull the halves together, or you can gently tap the halves together using a soft rubber mallet. Occasionally if you get the timing right and you work quickly the bearing will still have sufficient temperature that it will allow it all just slide together by hand.
@@matthewolson8875 No I haven't yet, but I'll be sure to take a look! Thanks. Btw I do have a quick question if you don't mind? I've just finished my first farmertec 372 build and I have a small part left over in a bag, it's a small round pin about 3mm in diameter and about 10mm long, it looks about the same as the one used at the end of the chain break band, but that came with one already fitted. Is there anywhere else one of these is used? I know the original husky doesn't have anymore but was wondering if it's something specific to farmertec? Or it's just an oversight that they've supplied two brake band pins by mistake? Thanks again.
Watching the whole build start to finish really gets me excited to start mine!! :) Thanks for the great vids Matt! :). Really picking up a lot of great tips and methods for this! :)
sylvain roy thanks! I usually don't do videos that have already been done....not a copycat....but if I have something interesting to show the tube I do...more to come!!
That is awesome Matt! How long did it take you? Was it the first saw period you put together, or the first 372xp you put together. I just got my kit, and talked my wife into doing it with me in her sewing room. Everything in her control, house, kitchen, bedrooms, bathrooms, everything inside the walls is beat, spotless clean always, and everything outside of the home, especially my garage looks like a hurricane crashed through. She also gets upset I don't hang out in the house, and am always at work, or working in my garage/yard. I invite her to hang out with me, and he asks me if I want to clean with her. Nope. But this is a new machine, so we can do it in her sewing room, together, so I don't sorry about losing parts, I don't go nuts in front the TV, and I get to do a very impressive project with my best gal. She went to bed a couple hrs ago.
Matt, I did not realize I was watching these videos, and commenting from her phone/account. I am a man, we are husband and wife, not "partners". In case you thought it odd Alicia was talking about her wife. Jajaja.
Commented yesterday on your live video about HL Supply not having clone 372 kits in stock, well today they were back in stock (1/23/20) so I ordered one.No potential China shipping hassle either!
I just got my 372 a couple of days ago. A couple of differences, sort of. Mine has a couple of the rubber pieces, and bar studs already installed. Also has the bearings and seals in. Two issues that I have found are that the corrosion was on most of the shiny surfaces. I used good old fashioned elbow grease and the finest grit sand paper I could find. The other issue is that the "construction debris" (metal shavings from milling) got into the bearings. I did the best I could to clear out the bearings. I don't see any nylon in them (don't really know what I should be looking for) but I seem to have gotten all the crap out of them with most of a small can of WD-40, and water in my sink. The cases look much better right now, and I am giving them 24 hrs to air dry before I try to put them together. Because of the sanding, and the cases showing other nics and such, I am for sure going to use 1184 gasket sealer, and the gasket that came with it. Do you think that I should throw out the bearings? If so I would get the seal kit at the same time.
I am a husky technician and the best way is to install the bearings on the crank then heat the case halves and they will slip in . then to center the crank to loosen it tap on the ends with a plastic hammer.
ShualMeade I have lots of other videos demonstrating why I came up with the crank tools. I used to do the hot and cold thing. No more of that for me. Once you try it my tools...you won't go back. But I got to ask...if you are husky tech....why are you watching my vid on a Husky clone?
I just happened to come across these clone saws and wanted to see how similar they were to oem. But I'm here if you need help. tcmeade@telus.net cheers!
ShualMeade check out my custom tooling....it's a lot easier and completely safe for the bearings :) Thanks for the offer...always appreciate learning stuff :)
@@matthewolson8875 yup we sell a ton of bearings at my work, already put some good ones in. $2.39 ea. be dumb not too. They want a lot for the oem seals though.
Surface corrosion - my 660 and 360 did not have any. My 361 had every case edge corroded. I cleaned them the same way you did but they ate up my little wire wheels. Both my 660 and 360 came in completely sealed plastic bags. My 361 was in an unsealed plastic bag, which should tell you what the problem was. I think they use a warehouse near salt water and this is what causes the problem.
Hi Matt it’s been a while. Ive got my old framertec 372 project back out I’ve moved a couple times so it never got fished I’ve now put it together but I’ve ran into a problem where the crank spins freely as it should in till I added the fly wheel and that now it’s gone tight to the point of snapping pull cords any ideas on what I’ve got wrong. I’ve built an oem 72 but I’m struggling with this one
There is no such thing as a 372 non xp. So making it an xp is not the issue. Making it run as strong as an oem husky 372 is different. The huztl and all aftermarket pieces are hit and miss. Some run as good....some dont. One easy thing to do is put a new oem top end on your 372 and it'll basically be as potent as an original 372. That said....there's lots else to consider....carb...timing.. coil issues. Bearing quality....the list keeps going
@@matthewolson8875 I beg to differ , Holzfformer , via Wagner Chainsaws list the g372 as a 65cc saw while the g372xp is a 71cc saw , he asked about a Holtz , not Husq. But great video .
@@terryclinard9031 ??? Not sure what the argument here is... what are you differing with? Husky never made a 372 that was a non "xp" 365 is 65 cc and 48mm bore. 372xp is 50mm bore. Xpw is 51.4mm bore. Huztl or Holtz or ft makes a 372 clone that is 50mm i believe which is a copy of the 372xp from husky
Mathew we started out 372 pretty much same time. Just passing what I ran into on mine. Flywheel and to key insert just a dimple where one should be. Missing. Parts for oil pump. Choke lever, Ordered some parts cant wait for them to get here to get this puppy rocking Thanks Pete
I have the start to the 2nd part of the video already shot... just gotta get some time working it up .... its in que and a high priority if you haven't put together a 372 before, missing parts can be frustrating. you can recreate the flywheel key with a piece of romex copper, ... but other parts you mentioned...best to wait for all of it to come in.... thanks for the comments!
Alr so im soon taking apart a poulan 306 A and im not trying to fix anything , i want to try to get almost all the mechanics out of it and then put the chainsaw back together making it almost hollow . But before i do this , i was wondering if its possible to put it back together whithout pretty much any mechanics in it. Thank you
Heating one up and chilling one don, yes, that is true but I can drink a cup of coffee or grab a bottle of coke while they are coming up to or down to temp. Not to mention grabbing a smoke or two. It usually, takes me about an hour, start to finish, to put the cases together and I never get in a rush. I am probably more meticulous than you are. My best time is 40 minutes but most of that was time waiting for parts to get to the correct temp. I go for 255 F. on the heated parts and 5 F. degrees or less on the cold parts, for a 250 degree delta on the parts. I use our stove and freezer to warm or cool the parts.
Matthew Olson but less expensive. Those tools cost about as much as a huztl kit. I have had no problems putting them together hot & cold. I have a short piece of 2 by. 6 that I drilled a hole in to hold the crank and I just put the cold crank in the hole and push the warm pto case half on the crank. Then, they go into the freezer and the other case half in the oven. I then put the cold first case half on two pieces of 2 by 6 with a gap between them and push on the second case half. I put. 1184 on both case halves before they went together. If the alignment pins are a tight fit I sometimes have to finish pulling the cases together with the bolts. I do put a light coat of 1184 on the alignment pins to keep them in place. I probably use less effort putting the cases together than you do. The pto side usually just goes on with little effort. The flywheel side is a little harder because of the alignment pins and gasket.
You could have used a large deep well socket instead of the races from an old bearing. I think, as long as in diameter was smaller than the outer race. A short piece of galvanized pipe would also work, as long as it was bigger than your drill rod. Old inner races would be ideal because you will need them, again, to seat the new bearing.
My bar studs came already installed. The diameter where they hold the bar is larger(normal I'm sure) but they reduce diameter before they clear the bar. So only the saw side half of the bar contacts the studs. I can't see the point of this unless it's a mistake. Anybody else notice this?
Matt, I finally ordered a 372 kit, today, so I may need your help in its assembly because I have never built a husky before. Btw, I have finally got the 460 running like I like. Should I get a set of spare extra seals for it? I am now 95%+ immune to COVID. I got my second shot two weeks ago.
@@matthewolson8875 Matt, I have extra seals for the 460. I have never used them. I was asking about the 372, which I ordered, yesterday. It has been shipped. Got the notification this morning. The 460 has come around to be a pretty reliable saw. It took a while, and a lot of parts but it is doing well. It has a 28 inch bar on it, now and my 660 has a 36 inch Oregon bar. The only part I know I need to order is the little rubber O ring that goes on the oil pump spacer but if experience is any indication I know I will probably need another carb and maybe another piston and cylinder. I just do not have any experience on huskies.
I'm thinking of doing one of these builds here soon as well and wondered if you had any insight to pass along for me to be on the look out for when I start my build . it will be my first ground up build so any advice will me greatly appreciated
Matthew Olson, nice my kit is on the way, ordered the 52mm cylinder kit for it as well. curious to see the fit and finish of the rest of your build, it will definitely help when assembling mine.
I've been waiting on one of these to be built before I buy one lol. I want a 660 but don't really need a saw that size. This one I can actually use. Can't wait to see it run.
@@speedrcr968 no problem....I've got lots of 372 stuff and if you get a chance to join live its much more fun. Im doing a 372 full build soon on that new crankcase...so follow along if ya like!
Sorry if you mention this in your videos or if someone else asked this question, but is the clone 372 much heavier than the Husqvarna 372? Is it because the clone's crankcase is aluminium?
I've said this numerous times in m vids.... these are not really intended to be "kits" ...but more like a "complete set of replacement parts". My vids are probably the closest thing you will get to instructions. Watch the vids....take notes...and let me know if you have questions
No....but its not really a "kit" ...I've tried to communicate this. I don't think this was ever intended to be a kit necessarily. More of a "complete set of replacement parts" .... hence the need for bolt for bolt vids :)
Lots of ways to install bearings in case halves. Safest for the cases and bearings is to heat the cases and drop em in. I often like to use the washers and threaded rod to bring the bearings in ...no heat needed and im less likely to damage things than using a hammer
Is it a 365, a 372 or a 372xp, and how can you tell??? What size is the jug on it??? I am very new to saw building but very crafty. I am wanting to buy that exact kit but want to be sure I am building a 372xp. tyvm.
foresaken5000 this kit comes with a 50mm....but you can get a 52mm big bore to bolt on if you like from huztl or hyway....look at the link in the description
does anyone know a customer service number for hutzl.net I ordered a 372 kit a some stihl parts and I got the kit but the stihl parts are not in it and I can't find anything about customer service on their site
David Shively keep in mind....when you split the case with heat....Odds are the bearings will stay on the crank. If you intend to re use the crank you'll need a puller to pull the bearings off the crank
Ken Peltz likely from huztl directly. ...gotta wait for a sale...like...4th of July. Shipping kills ya though. Fyi. You can sometimes get from hl supply and shipping is reasonable and they are shipped faster because they are here in the states
Crank assembly in freezer bearings in pan of veg oil on stove drop right on crank, then crank assembly back in freezer with case halves in large pot of hot water and they go together with hand pressure. Just. Fit case halves together several times to make sure they will go together smoothly and quickly before final assembly! Guess you could kill two birds with one stone and use syn. Husqvarna oil instead of veg oil in pot.
The oil in a pot is an interesting idea. But I've done the hot/cold thing plenty. No more of that for me. Using my adapters is safer and faster and more controlled. here's the 660 ... watch the first 2 minutes and you'll see again how I do it. th-cam.com/video/jCneiCWdqVs/w-d-xo.html also, when you heat things up in a pot, even of oil or water, how would you put sealer on the case halves? I like some sealer on the case halves for cheap insurance. 1184 works.
@@matthewolson8875you can use a crank puller on one side when everything is cool. Love your videos but I guess I’m old school hot and cold fast and simple and no risk of scraping cases with those threaded rods. Thanks really enjoyed this video and keep up the good work.
Thanks for making the video. I would recommend watching a DIFFERENT video if someone wants to build their saw. You spent so much time pissing around with the unimportant stuff like bearings and talking about how it’s going to be one continuous shot... it’s obviously your first time doing this exact kit and should’ve taken time to plan the assembly better. Some really important issues are pointed out in text only so you actually need to watch the catastrophe It was my first time, have never taken a saw apart or built one and caught many issues with the way you put things together Keep making videos but make cheat sheet and understand where everything goes first
What other video would you recommend watching? Link? Yes..I spend lots of time on all kinds of different stuff but that's kinda the point. Coming at this fresh like everyone else. I've build plenty of 372 before but not the kit saw. Lots of little issues potentially with kit saws and I spent lots of extra time adding text where necessary. Takes hours just to edit a 30 minute vid....so be gentle :)
Anyone who says use a stainless wire wheel on a Drexel on an aluminum sealing surface should be careful giving advice. But hey I just come from marine aerospace background and build racing v8s.
I should also state the correct way to do this would be to used fine sand paper on very flat block in smooth pulls that or with a white brisel style roloc pad and light pressure on a air die grinder. The bar studs as with anything being pressed together should have a light amount of thin oil such as 3 in one. One could also put the tiniest bit of rtv at the base for sealing.
Илья Мамонов thank you for the comment it's possible the original bearings would have been okay but I wanted to test out the tools I made and no harm in swapping out the bearings for premium bearings
the boot on the cylinder of circular cross-section or square? Simply if the square, there will be problems. This case do not stand cylinders old model... impulse line prevents...
It's been very helpful the videos Matthew. Can't thank you enough!
Instead of going back to stock cylinder size, I used a Meteor 272 piston 52mm with single Caber ring. Much lighter piston and pin, better quality circlips and ring.
When my .8mm gasket paper arrives, I will cut a cylinder base gasket to give me reasonable squish and timing.
I completed a cylinder clean up with the Dremel tool, ported out the exhaust cylinder outlet and some porting on the lower transfer ports near the base of the cylinder.
Plenty of options for a fuel jet mod on the carburettor and muffler mod if needed.
I used the supplied bearings and seals in the crankcase. The Husqvarna crankcase assembly tool doubled up as a timing / degree wheel fitting.
Will fit the high top cover and heavy duty filter and unlimited rev coil.
Basically that's the general scope of my build.
I will post the video of the end result when I have the 372 running in a few weeks time.
Peter Lynch sounds good!
I really have to thank you for these videos! I put together my kit by watching these videos and I'm confident that I could not have done it without you as a guide. I even made a flywheel side puller based on your videos. Truly appreciate all that you do!!
Great! Happy to help!
Quick tip: Put the crank and bearings in the freezer a few hours before you start. When you're ready to start, get a heat gun and warm the case around where the bearings go, then quickly grab a bearing from the freezer and place it into the case half - it will only take very minimal force to send the bearing home, usually only a few very light taps with a hammer on a suitably sized socket. Repeat this for the other case half. Next you want to prepare the gasket and mating surfaces with some suitable sealant if you're that way inclined, now carefully heat the bearing's inner race(not too much though), then quickly grab the crank out of the freezer and slide it into the case half whose bearing you just warmed - the crankshaft will just push in easily by hand all the way into the bearing. Now also quickly heat the other inner race and slide the case halves together, at this point you should have the halves almost fully together before the ice cold crankshaft cools the bearing down and it starts to bind a bit, if the halves are not quite all the way home you can either run a couple of bolts in and tighten it down carefully to pull the halves together, or you can gently tap the halves together using a soft rubber mallet. Occasionally if you get the timing right and you work quickly the bearing will still have sufficient temperature that it will allow it all just slide together by hand.
thanks for the explaination but i'm pretty sure you haven't seen my more current vids :) enjoy your day!
@@matthewolson8875 No I haven't yet, but I'll be sure to take a look! Thanks.
Btw I do have a quick question if you don't mind? I've just finished my first farmertec 372 build and I have a small part left over in a bag, it's a small round pin about 3mm in diameter and about 10mm long, it looks about the same as the one used at the end of the chain break band, but that came with one already fitted. Is there anywhere else one of these is used? I know the original husky doesn't have anymore but was wondering if it's something specific to farmertec? Or it's just an oversight that they've supplied two brake band pins by mistake? Thanks again.
@@Altair885 yeah brake band is what I would think if for that part.....
@@matthewolson8875 Cheers bud👍
Watching the whole build start to finish really gets me excited to start mine!! :) Thanks for the great vids Matt! :). Really picking up a lot of great tips and methods for this! :)
Thanks for the comment! glad you are getting some ambition from this...thats the whole point! :) ask questions anytime!
I put my case halves together yesterday, glad I found this, all those bolts I have no idea where they go... lol. Ty!
Happy to help!
man i was waiting for a farmertec husky 365 clone you are the first isee on youtube keep up the good work!!!!!
sylvain roy thanks! I usually don't do videos that have already been done....not a copycat....but if I have something interesting to show the tube I do...more to come!!
that is great news im realy glad i found your channel for sure thanks again for the info
sylvain roy no prob at all!!
Thanks for the videos Matt! Just got my first farmertec 372xp finished this morning using your videos and crank tool.
Great!
That is awesome Matt! How long did it take you? Was it the first saw period you put together, or the first 372xp you put together. I just got my kit, and talked my wife into doing it with me in her sewing room. Everything in her control, house, kitchen, bedrooms, bathrooms, everything inside the walls is beat, spotless clean always, and everything outside of the home, especially my garage looks like a hurricane crashed through. She also gets upset I don't hang out in the house, and am always at work, or working in my garage/yard. I invite her to hang out with me, and he asks me if I want to clean with her. Nope. But this is a new machine, so we can do it in her sewing room, together, so I don't sorry about losing parts, I don't go nuts in front the TV, and I get to do a very impressive project with my best gal. She went to bed a couple hrs ago.
Matt, I did not realize I was watching these videos, and commenting from her phone/account. I am a man, we are husband and wife, not "partners". In case you thought it odd Alicia was talking about her wife. Jajaja.
@@aliciagalindo3038 hehe...all good 👍
Commented yesterday on your live video about HL Supply not having clone 372 kits in stock, well today they were back in stock (1/23/20) so I ordered one.No potential China shipping hassle either!
Nice!
I just got my 372 a couple of days ago. A couple of differences, sort of. Mine has a couple of the rubber pieces, and bar studs already installed. Also has the bearings and seals in. Two issues that I have found are that the corrosion was on most of the shiny surfaces. I used good old fashioned elbow grease and the finest grit sand paper I could find. The other issue is that the "construction debris" (metal shavings from milling) got into the bearings. I did the best I could to clear out the bearings. I don't see any nylon in them (don't really know what I should be looking for) but I seem to have gotten all the crap out of them with most of a small can of WD-40, and water in my sink. The cases look much better right now, and I am giving them 24 hrs to air dry before I try to put them together. Because of the sanding, and the cases showing other nics and such, I am for sure going to use 1184 gasket sealer, and the gasket that came with it. Do you think that I should throw out the bearings? If so I would get the seal kit at the same time.
Nachi bearings are a nice upgrade...as is a seal kit from hyway.... check my hl supply link in the description
I am a husky technician and the best way is to install the bearings on the crank then heat the case halves and they will slip in . then to center the crank to loosen it tap on the ends with a plastic hammer.
ShualMeade what do you do when the crank gets stuck halfway into the bearing?
ShualMeade I have lots of other videos demonstrating why I came up with the crank tools. I used to do the hot and cold thing. No more of that for me. Once you try it my tools...you won't go back.
But I got to ask...if you are husky tech....why are you watching my vid on a Husky clone?
remove it and start over.
I just happened to come across these clone saws and wanted to see how similar they were to oem. But I'm here if you need help. tcmeade@telus.net cheers!
ShualMeade check out my custom tooling....it's a lot easier and completely safe for the bearings :)
Thanks for the offer...always appreciate learning stuff :)
Just got one of these kits, the pto case bearing had a tight spot straight away. The flywheel side felt butter smooth.
Swap for nachis :)
@@matthewolson8875 yup we sell a ton of bearings at my work, already put some good ones in. $2.39 ea. be dumb not too. They want a lot for the oem seals though.
@@jeremiahjohnson5278 hyway seals are fine
Surface corrosion - my 660 and 360 did not have any. My 361 had every case edge corroded. I cleaned them the same way you did but they ate up my little wire wheels. Both my 660 and 360 came in completely sealed plastic bags. My 361 was in an unsealed plastic bag, which should tell you what the problem was. I think they use a warehouse near salt water and this is what causes the problem.
Hi Matt it’s been a while. Ive got my old framertec 372 project back out I’ve moved a couple times so it never got fished I’ve now put it together but I’ve ran into a problem where the crank spins freely as it should in till I added the fly wheel and that now it’s gone tight to the point of snapping pull cords any ideas on what I’ve got wrong. I’ve built an oem 72 but I’m struggling with this one
I have a holtz g372. What's involved to mod it to an xp? Or what mods can be done to get it close to xp power?
Thanks. Great instructional vids.
There is no such thing as a 372 non xp. So making it an xp is not the issue. Making it run as strong as an oem husky 372 is different. The huztl and all aftermarket pieces are hit and miss. Some run as good....some dont. One easy thing to do is put a new oem top end on your 372 and it'll basically be as potent as an original 372. That said....there's lots else to consider....carb...timing.. coil issues. Bearing quality....the list keeps going
@@matthewolson8875 I beg to differ , Holzfformer , via Wagner Chainsaws list the g372 as a 65cc saw while the g372xp is a 71cc saw , he asked about a Holtz , not Husq. But great video .
Check out Tinmans videos and maybe shoot him an e mail , may be as simple as a Cylinder/Piston swap.
@@terryclinard9031 ??? Not sure what the argument here is... what are you differing with? Husky never made a 372 that was a non "xp"
365 is 65 cc and 48mm bore. 372xp is 50mm bore. Xpw is 51.4mm bore.
Huztl or Holtz or ft makes a 372 clone that is 50mm i believe which is a copy of the 372xp from husky
Mathew we started out 372 pretty much same time. Just passing what I ran into on mine. Flywheel and to key insert just a dimple where one should be. Missing. Parts for oil pump. Choke lever, Ordered some parts cant wait for them to get here to get this puppy rocking
Thanks Pete
I have the start to the 2nd part of the video already shot... just gotta get some time working it up .... its in que and a high priority
if you haven't put together a 372 before, missing parts can be frustrating. you can recreate the flywheel key with a piece of romex copper, ... but other parts you mentioned...best to wait for all of it to come in....
thanks for the comments!
Alr so im soon taking apart a poulan 306 A and im not trying to fix anything , i want to try to get almost all the mechanics out of it and then put the chainsaw back together making it almost hollow . But before i do this , i was wondering if its possible to put it back together whithout pretty much any mechanics in it. Thank you
Uh...sure. you can pull the crank out and just put the case halves together...completely hollow
@@matthewolson8875 thank you very much
Heating one up and chilling one don, yes, that is true but I can drink a cup of coffee or grab a bottle of coke while they are coming up to or down to temp. Not to mention grabbing a smoke or two. It usually, takes me about an hour, start to finish, to put the cases together and I never get in a rush. I am probably more meticulous than you are. My best time is 40 minutes but most of that was time waiting for parts to get to the correct temp. I go for 255 F. on the heated parts and 5 F. degrees or less on the cold parts, for a 250 degree delta on the parts. I use our stove and freezer to warm or cool the parts.
Slower....less control ....and more dangerous are not advantages :)
Matthew Olson but less expensive. Those tools cost about as much as a huztl kit. I have had no problems putting them together hot & cold. I have a short piece of 2 by. 6 that I drilled a hole in to hold the crank and I just put the cold crank in the hole and push the warm pto case half on the crank. Then, they go into the freezer and the other case half in the oven. I then put the cold first case half on two pieces of 2 by 6 with a gap between them and push on the second case half. I put. 1184 on both case halves before they went together. If the alignment pins are a tight fit I sometimes have to finish pulling the cases together with the bolts. I do put a light coat of 1184 on the alignment pins to keep them in place. I probably use less effort putting the cases together than you do. The pto side usually just goes on with little effort. The flywheel side is a little harder because of the alignment pins and gasket.
@@johnclarke6647 more time is most certainly more expensive. Time is the most precious commodity on earth :)
Matthew Olson improvise, adapt and over come. That is my motto which I learned well in the Corps.
@@johnclarke6647 done that....and the conclusion was tools :)
You could have used a large deep well socket instead of the races from an old bearing. I think, as long as in diameter was smaller than the outer race. A short piece of galvanized pipe would also work, as long as it was bigger than your drill rod. Old inner races would be ideal because you will need them, again, to seat the new bearing.
My bar studs came already installed. The diameter where they hold the bar is larger(normal I'm sure) but they reduce diameter before they clear the bar. So only the saw side half of the bar contacts the studs. I can't see the point of this unless it's a mistake. Anybody else notice this?
Maybe the studs need to be tapped further home?
In the kits, there is a single silver washer. Not sure where that was intended to go. Any idea?
Are you referring to the one that goes over the clutch bushing
@@matthewolson8875 lot smaller. 10 mm OD and 5.5 ID
If you could do a bolt for bolt of a STIHL 0380 AV, that would be fantastic! Terrific videos by the way.
Logjam5 I don't know if I'll get to that model....who knows though!
Matt, I finally ordered a 372 kit, today, so I may need your help in its assembly because I have never built a husky before. Btw, I have finally got the 460 running like I like. Should I get a set of spare extra seals for it? I am now 95%+ immune to COVID. I got my second shot two weeks ago.
Seals for the 372 or 460? I definitely recommend the hyway seal kit for the 372
@@matthewolson8875 Matt, I have extra seals for the 460. I have never used them. I was asking about the 372, which I ordered, yesterday. It has been shipped. Got the notification this morning. The 460 has come around to be a pretty reliable saw. It took a while, and a lot of parts but it is doing well. It has a 28 inch bar on it, now and my 660 has a 36 inch Oregon bar. The only part I know I need to order is the little rubber O ring that goes on the oil pump spacer but if experience is any indication I know I will probably need another carb and maybe another piston and cylinder. I just do not have any experience on huskies.
I'm thinking of doing one of these builds here soon as well and wondered if you had any insight to pass along for me to be on the look out for when I start my build . it will be my first ground up build so any advice will me greatly appreciated
shane marion best advice is to watch all of my vids for 372...take notes. take your time....once you have watched the vids...then ask questions :)
no problem at all! I'm really hoping to finished up the 372 series some time this coming week. we'll see!
Matthew Olson any new videos showing the rest the assembly?
Charles Pendleton still waiting on new seals....I thought I'd get them last week....maybe they'll show up tomorrow in the mail
Matthew Olson, nice my kit is on the way, ordered the 52mm cylinder kit for it as well. curious to see the fit and finish of the rest of your build, it will definitely help when assembling mine.
I've been waiting on one of these to be built before I buy one lol. I want a 660 but don't really need a saw that size. This one I can actually use. Can't wait to see it run.
SawsAndStuff check out AFLEETCOMMAND channel...walt has some good stuff over there on these
Can you provide a list of consumables (lubes, adhesives, sealants) that you use during your build?
Nice idea! I'll make a vid on it one of these days!
Excellent….thank you!
hi thinking of getting 372 but confused about timing?? what are you timing? is it just for porting you do?
cheers
th-cam.com/video/1T-x3py2H7o/w-d-xo.html
Why do you need the spacer when seating the crank in the case?
This is an old video. I just did a 372 crankcase live...check that one for a more smooth install :)
@@matthewolson8875 will do, Thanks. I’ve got a 372 kit on the way so I’m going through various assembly videos. Appreciate the response.
@@speedrcr968 no problem....I've got lots of 372 stuff and if you get a chance to join live its much more fun. Im doing a 372 full build soon on that new crankcase...so follow along if ya like!
Sorry if you mention this in your videos or if someone else asked this question, but is the clone 372 much heavier than the Husqvarna 372? Is it because the clone's crankcase is aluminium?
I don't think it's aluminum...I thought it was mag also. Who knows ...but it's not much heavier if at all
Do these kits come with easy to read/understand instuctions or instructional videos?
I've said this numerous times in m vids.... these are not really intended to be "kits" ...but more like a "complete set of replacement parts". My vids are probably the closest thing you will get to instructions. Watch the vids....take notes...and let me know if you have questions
@@matthewolson8875 Excellent... Thanks 👍
Does your 372 specific kit contain the parts you used to swap the bearings?
I replied to your email :)
What sizes are the threaded rod you were using to seat the cases together? and will they work for other husqvarnas?
yeah, the rods are 3/4" in this video...and my set of tools works for husky and stihl ....
th-cam.com/video/r-iZWjOejNc/w-d-xo.html
The rods that are threaded inside and outside? what size and thread count?
email me mattyo5 ATAOL DOTTTTT com and i'll send you the form letter that has the info
Does the kit come with an assembly manual or specifications ?
No....but its not really a "kit" ...I've tried to communicate this. I don't think this was ever intended to be a kit necessarily. More of a "complete set of replacement parts" .... hence the need for bolt for bolt vids :)
Are the crank bearings 6202 or 6203? ID x OD x width?
6202 for 372xp
What tool do you use to pull the crank in?
I sell them.... email me mattyo5@@@@@aol.com
Get rid of the extra @@@@
can you tell me the length of those 6 case screws for farmer tech 372 clone in mm?
thank you.
James Chae overall length is about 35mm
Matthew Olson
I thought they were 25mm or 30mm.
can you make sure?
thanks again.
They have a pointy end to them...and they are at least 35mm
did this kit come with a carb adjustment tool?
No....no need
What size are the bearing and the one seal you used? if i buy one of these kits i will buy skf brand bearings and seals at home :-P
these are 6202 bearings. ... the seals are tricky because the pto side seal is a little different than usual.
the tools seem over kill you can use a socket and hammer n have them in quicker
Lots of ways to install bearings in case halves. Safest for the cases and bearings is to heat the cases and drop em in. I often like to use the washers and threaded rod to bring the bearings in ...no heat needed and im less likely to damage things than using a hammer
I had ba experience with mine , one leaks or on chain side and the other drips gasoline from underneath the handle
sorry man, so far mine seems ok ... though all of my 16 saws leak bar oil lol.... gotta figure out where your gas leak is ... best of luck!
Is it a 365, a 372 or a 372xp, and how can you tell??? What size is the jug on it??? I am very new to saw building but very crafty. I am wanting to buy that exact kit but want to be sure I am building a 372xp. tyvm.
foresaken5000 50mm jug is 372xp. ...48mm is 365 more or less :)
do you know which this kit comes with? I have a new 272 jug "52mm". would this work and what do you think its specs would be?
foresaken5000 272 jugs are not compatible with 372 kits....sorry
foresaken5000 this kit comes with a 50mm....but you can get a 52mm big bore to bolt on if you like from huztl or hyway....look at the link in the description
that would be great. would that make it a 372xp?
Do the 372 kits come with all the bolts needed
The 372 huztl kit saws? Yes ...more or less.
Makes me want to put one together!
Excellent:)
How would u split case without a case splitter
David Shively th-cam.com/video/ifEKL8VB7HY/w-d-xo.html
What’s the thread needed for the crank tool?
For 372? M14x1.25 LH for clutch side m8x1.0 RH flywheel
Matthew Olson 372, thank you!
does anyone know a customer service number for hutzl.net I ordered a 372 kit a some stihl parts and I got the kit but the stihl parts are not in it and I can't find anything about customer service on their site
No....but it takes a long time to get stuff....and with huztl ....I don't expect to have much service. You kinda get what ya get
Found this on my Paypal account, I just placed an order yesterday
Merchant
XIONG CHANG HUA
service@huztl.net
+86 13758970530
Thanks
I am coming to the dance late, but if you are checking these messages, is there and where do I find a 395xp kit?
Check the live vids ...in the live chat replay you'll find my eml..addy. if I post it here youtube deletes it
Thanks very much
David Shively keep in mind....when you split the case with heat....Odds are the bearings will stay on the crank. If you intend to re use the crank you'll need a puller to pull the bearings off the crank
Mine broke down on second day of use with cylinder compression loss to 55psi. Please advise what is your compression reading
These kits end up 120 to 170 for comp .....if you have 55 comp you either used straight gas or had an air leak
fuel was very rich mixture since i ran other cylinder rebuilt saws. surfaces look as new and sound looking through exhaust port
@@chrisradla then the motor didn't break down....did you check squish?
Pretty much how I do crank bearings too.
:)
Where’s the cheapest place to buy these clones
Ken Peltz likely from huztl directly. ...gotta wait for a sale...like...4th of July. Shipping kills ya though. Fyi. You can sometimes get from hl supply and shipping is reasonable and they are shipped faster because they are here in the states
Actually, I've had pretty good luck with the Chinese bearings on my Stihl saws...
Joe W these might have been fine...but I wanted to try my bearing pullers and I have nachi bearings sitting around
OK thanks
Crank assembly in freezer bearings in pan of veg oil on stove drop right on crank, then crank assembly back in freezer with case halves in large pot of hot water and they go together with hand pressure. Just. Fit case halves together several times to make sure they will go together smoothly and quickly before final assembly! Guess you could kill two birds with one stone and use syn. Husqvarna oil instead of veg oil in pot.
The oil in a pot is an interesting idea. But I've done the hot/cold thing plenty. No more of that for me. Using my adapters is safer and faster and more controlled. here's the 660 ... watch the first 2 minutes and you'll see again how I do it. th-cam.com/video/jCneiCWdqVs/w-d-xo.html
also, when you heat things up in a pot, even of oil or water, how would you put sealer on the case halves? I like some sealer on the case halves for cheap insurance. 1184 works.
@@matthewolson8875you can use a crank puller on one side when everything is cool. Love your videos but I guess I’m old school hot and cold fast and simple and no risk of scraping cases with those threaded rods. Thanks really enjoyed this video and keep up the good work.
@@Fueler bearings are safest with hot and cold... crank is safest with my way :)
@@Fueler i have lots of other vids that are more current using my crank tools.... also have the crank tools on my site Www.mattschainsawparts.com
Thanks for making the video.
I would recommend watching a DIFFERENT video if someone wants to build their saw. You spent so much time pissing around with the unimportant stuff like bearings and talking about how it’s going to be one continuous shot...
it’s obviously your first time doing this exact kit and should’ve taken time to plan the assembly better. Some really important issues are pointed out in text only so you actually need to watch the catastrophe
It was my first time, have never taken a saw apart or built one and caught many issues with the way you put things together
Keep making videos but make cheat sheet and understand where everything goes first
What other video would you recommend watching? Link? Yes..I spend lots of time on all kinds of different stuff but that's kinda the point. Coming at this fresh like everyone else. I've build plenty of 372 before but not the kit saw. Lots of little issues potentially with kit saws and I spent lots of extra time adding text where necessary. Takes hours just to edit a 30 minute vid....so be gentle :)
Well, I am about to build my first 372 and there will be some serious pissing around ,LOL. I have no idea which screws go where!
Anyone who says use a stainless wire wheel on a Drexel on an aluminum sealing surface should be careful giving advice. But hey I just come from marine aerospace background and build racing v8s.
And then we see him running down the studs with an impact and not a ratchet. I have just about seen enough.
I should also state the correct way to do this would be to used fine sand paper on very flat block in smooth pulls that or with a white brisel style roloc pad and light pressure on a air die grinder. The bar studs as with anything being pressed together should have a light amount of thin oil such as 3 in one. One could also put the tiniest bit of rtv at the base for sealing.
Please also never put a crank in a vice without soft jaws of some type.
and how manny saws did you say you built lol just playing brother man good job
Ha! Maybe I'm up to 75? 60 to 75 at this point
Not very fast
what wasn't fast?
Сборка неправельная
Aleksandr Neskazu sorry. ...I can't translate
Crankcase bearings surprisingly good ... You should not have to change them. Tested in practice
Илья Мамонов thank you for the comment it's possible the original bearings would have been okay but I wanted to test out the tools I made and no harm in swapping out the bearings for premium bearings
the boot on the cylinder of circular cross-section or square?
Simply if the square, there will be problems. This case do not stand cylinders old model... impulse line prevents...
Илья Мамонов the intake boot is round
well, then you should not be a problem during Assembly. good luck!