I am currently working on updating the software user interface to 64bit and new features. This has been a lot more work than I thought. Now there is a little adjustment of the Arduino code, also better control of stepper motors. When everything is ready, there will be a new video T-Scann 8 ver 2024. I want and hope that everything will be ready during November.
Finally! I have made a new video and project page. It is quite a lot of work to upload all the files and construction instructions. I will probably work on this a week from now before everything is finished
Very Impressed with the quality of the final video from your scanner. About 35 years ago I modified a projector, added a bit of electronics to control the speed and lock the film frame from the frame sync 50Hz of the camera. The film ran at 16 and 2/3 frames per second, a bit slower than the 18 frames per second of the film which was not too noticeable but it was the only way to keep things in sync. No computers to help in those days
Hi, Torulf, i started with the topframe but your dessin is not usable, there is a lot of dimension data missing, maybe not if you have a a3 printer but most of us dont have one, so is it possible to add more dimention, Thanks, Paul
Has updated arduino software v1.2 Now Arduino is waiting for the Raspberry PI, for the image to be exposed and saved, so you do not have to take into account how fast hard disk you have safer and better. Increased speed to 60 frames / sec. Then a good tip (thanks Tobias Frid Sweden) if you have problems with I2C errors on the Raspberry Pi page lower Baudrate. Read more on the project page.
Very nice project. I am building a filmscanner myself based on a filmprojector for the mechanics and a Raspbery Pi camera for the images. I have already some results, but you gave me many ideas for improvement. Your comments about the filmgate are very valuable. I am looking forward to see how you control the moter with the led.
Brilliant piece of work! I am first going to modify one of my old cine film projectors and if that does not work, I will be building one from scratch. Thanks for sharing some of the details, much appreciated.
HQ Camera takes up more space on the back of the lens, so you have to make larger holes in the plate, now the camera v2 is above the plate. The HQ camera must stick under the plate to make room. Furthermore, I do not know if it is possible to use the same lens because the sensor is larger than the industrial camera for which this lens is designed. I think the lens needs to go closer to the film gate to draw the entire sensor surface. So it takes a bit of research, to see if it works with current construction.
A new question for you Torulf, what model of the steppermotor did you use, there are several Nema 17 steppers, and, what is the memory size for the arduino? Greetings, Paul
@@paulvangestel sorry for late reply, I thought I answered your question. this works important is facade shaft and preferably long cables with connector. www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-7oz-1-5A-12-24V-42x34mm-1-8-for-3D-Printer-CNC-New/154318758886? hash = item23ee1d63e6: g: kPMAAOSwfb1fK53s Arduino 32KB
Hi, Great project. I will put one together asap. Do you have any plans to build a 16mm version? Wouldn't it be a killer to be able to change the film frame guide, change a couple of sprockets and rollers and have the 16mm function? I do realize that it would take some additional programming too.
Thanks! You're not the first to think I should make a 16mm version, when I'm happy with the 8mm version I'll think about it. But in that case it will only be for 16mm, I will not try a version for 8 and 16, there is far too much difference
Effectively I do not know, but reduce the dust in the first place. Ideally I would like to use silicone, like blackmagic Cintel Scanner but have trouble finding silicone tape. No direct disadvantages the film layer sits very hard
Hi Torulf! I just ordered the PCB and will be ordering the rest of the parts today. I hope I can build this without any issues. I see that you have some info about a 2024 update. Is there anything major coming to the new version? Should I wait to build?
2 more questions: - you provided the gerber files, is it possible to import them into EasyEDA? I would like to order the PCB fully assembled from jlcpcb - did you think about adding support for recording Super8 audio? Would this be possible? PS: would be cool adding film-cleaning as a feature :)
I can't see that it is possible to import gerber files, ready-assembled cards will be expensive I think, as there are no surface-mounted components. Super 8 sound it would certainly be possible, but then the film has to be run a second time to play the sound and it becomes a bit of manual work to synchronize the sound with the film. Film cleaning wet scanning it can certainly be in the future.
There is no price, you have to build it yourself, this video uses RGB LED, but has switched to white LED recommends CXA1304-0000-000C0UA240H 4W / CRI 95 tscann8.torulf.com/
Hi Torulf, Your design looks very good. Using a stepping motor to select the frames is smart. I will continue to monitor your project. And I already start up my 3-D printer ...
Thanks !, went a bit sluggish this weekend, due to shoulder pain, so could not work as hard as planned. Will finish the electronics page first. Then there will be the 3D print parts so keep the 3D printers warm!
Great project - did you consider using the new Raspberry Pi 12 MP HQ camera for the next upgrade? Would it make sense? I was thinking about purchasing the Wolverine-MovieMaker-Pro but it's very expensive and your solution seems much better .. cheaper and better quality. Do you have infos about this?
I've been using the HQ camera for a long time, I've tried Wolverine-MovieMaker-Pro, it's easier to handle, but mine gets better results but requires a lot of post-work. Have you visited my project page?
@@tscann8 thanks yor your reply - that's what i was thinking .. the Wolverine is too expensive for losing so much quality .. i just visited your page, looks great! Would it make sense using an ESP32 instead of an Arduino? For faster scanning maybe?
Very impressive! I just tried transferring using a regular projector ... film broke, projector bulb wouldn't turn off and a frame of the film melted. I think I may have to try building one of these... unless you sell the completed product? :)
På 4:12 ja där är det grönaktigt i mitten, kan tänkas bero på jag körde på någon automatik? var så länge sen har glömt, nu använder jag HQ kameran / vit led / annan ljushus så ska väl bli bättre om jag scannar om den filmen. Du har väl besökt? tscann8.torulf.com/
Today I celebrate subscriber number 300! Unfortunately, it is not possible to see what this particular premurante is called, depends on his setting on the account. You who started subscribing on November 10 or 11. If you want to tell us your name and which country you live in? It's been a while since I did any updates on T-Scann8, I've been busy with other things. But will soon start working with it again. What I have started is improved detection of Phototransistor to achieve better precision and new design of traction stop better and simpler desingn, I hope. Got a new channel name youtube.com/@tscann8
How do you set focus (ställa skärpa) via the RPi? Is the lens you use in front of the existing RPi autofocusable lens? I thought those were manual focus anyway. Or do you move the camera sensor?
Nice looking machine, although there are many similar cheap commercial 8mm/Super8 scanners available in the meantime. Unfortunately, they cannot digitize sound films. Therefore I would definitely go for a T-Scann Sound model...
@@tscann8 Hi Torulf, I have many Super-8 sound movies that I need to digitize. I love that you have decided to share your project. Not just to share for your own glory, showing off what you can do, but so others with the inclination, do not have to reinvent the wheel!! I would likely buy a unit if it was available, but I am also adept at assembling something like this if I have a parts list, if you will, to go by, that I know will work. I'm not much of an inventor but can usually take plans and run with them. So, I'm a bit concerned about the sound. Many of these cheap units on the market, not only do a poor job of capturing the images, but they offer no way to add the sound easily. What's the point of great images, though, unless you have the original sound to go with it? I am interested in great image quality, if I can add back the sound. What I hear you saying is that if I run the movies normally and record the sound using my Elmo projector, then I should be able to add back the sound track in the post editing, that I will be performing anyway, correct? The only tricky part may be syncing the sound track to the movie, acceptably, correct? Before I go to the cost and effort to build your project, I would like your opinion as to how easy or difficult this is going to be, to add back the sound without super expensive software. Anyone else who has done this, I would love to hear about it. Tim
@@boxtop1 It can be a bit of work to synchronize the sound. The movie camera sways in speed. The projector sways in speed. The scanned film does not waver in speed. Has filmed (super8) with separate sound on cassette tape and synchronized scene by scene if the sound is more than 20-25 sec then it works, all sound is not critical it's only if someone is talking, environmental sound, people on the street etc. if some frames are out of sync no one notices. Software for this is free Davinci resolve (free ver) it handles both image and sound. This is the program I use and recommend. Build a scanner, if you are not satisfied, I can help you sell it, I get requests to build and sell from time to time. Which I don't do.
Man that looks great! Awesome work I have been getting stuff together for a scanner project using a Pi as well older model with the same camera. Thanks for sharing this!!
@@tscann8 Not a frame by frame one. which is in my opinion the best. I have most everything but I was planning to use an old projector still trying to figure that part out. I really like your design ideally I would like to put something like what you have made. Many hurdles though I don't have a 3d printer and am not to saavy on how to have stuff made. I feel I am still a ways away of getting it put together. It is fun trying to figure it out though.
yes VirtualDub (32 bit) and (64 bit) can create mp4 video but in 32bit ver, it does not work with the resolution I use. I do not know if it goes in 64bit ver because "MSU Denoiser Filter" is only available for 32bit ver. So can not use 64bit ver
You have the center discoloration issue that plagued me all these years and drove me completely crazy. I found the cause by myself after years of consulting lens companies as well as sensors companies that weren't even able to explain it to me, it's that these sensors have their bayer filter aligned expressly for small close lenses like on phones or like these camera original lens (for years I thought this was a temperature issue but it was not) Solution= use a bigger sensor, like the raspberry Pi HQ camera, it simply doesn't have this insidious special bayer alignment (and you get a better resolution)
"center discoloration issue" has never heard of it, what should I look for? I have been using the HQ camera since last autumn, an update with another lens will be coming soon tscann8.torulf.com/hq-update.html
@@tscann8 at 04:09 notice the green blurb in the middle of the picture, the camera pans and the greenish blurb stays in the center, this is the discoloration I was talking about, this tells me that it was NOT captured with the HQ camera but with one of the older smaller models of raspberry pi cameras. The HQ camera is safe from this issue.
@Torulf Homström Please tell me: have you've seen the green blurb at 04:09 ? (once you see it once, you won't be able to unsee it, sorry) This issue happens on older raspberry pi cameras because of the distance between the sensor and the lens, their original lenses are almost touching the sensors while a custom M12 lenses or your microscope lens are centimeters aways from the sensor, this strongly changes the angles of the incoming light but the bayer filter ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayer_filter ) is specially aligned to deal with the weird angles of a very close lens. I've seen this issue also with other sensors like the See3CAM_CU130 USB Camera from E-Con and most Arducams. E-con and Arducams are often shipped with M12 lenses and therefore were already having the issue out of the box.
Now I have updated the project page, with more information and better / easier reading about the different 3D print parts tscann8.torulf.com/top-3dparts.html
Hello Now there is so much info at tscann8.torulf.com so you who are planning to build this scanner can start now. My email for questions and comments can be found on the start page / Torulf
This is GOOD! I am sure there would be a market for such a scanner... For people who can't be satisfied with lousy low cost scanners such as Wolverine or Reflecta, but can't afford the expensive professional systems such as MWA FlashScan... It seems that your system can compete with the high price scanners in terms of quality of the result (obviously, not in terms of speed, but that is no problem for the enthousiast). Torulf, have you ever thought about making it a sellable product?
T-Scann 8 requires some work to use, if I were to build a finished unit I would be afraid of a lot of support for the users. If it was perfect image stillness, I would possibly think about it, but now it requires stabilization afterwards. Wolverine and Reflecta are not perfect scanners but they do a decent job anyway. T-Scann8 would cost significantly more as a commercial product.
@@tscann8 The main flaws of Wolverine/Reflecta are the lousy camera and the horrid compression of the files. The high compression noise ruins most scenes - and that compression rate is not adjustable. The mechanical aspect is not too bad once the pressure of the film slides is carefully adjusted (you still get problems on most film collages). I really like the design of your T-scann-8: simple and effective. But, yes, the principal difficulty with your machine is the precise positioning of each frame by means of optical sensing of the film perforations... I can imagine that this is a difficult challenge… You might really need a microscope sensor that would detect the leading edge of the perforation rather than a cell that looks at the entire perforation (I undersatnd that this is what you do?)… Or of course you might need to revert to a mechanical claw such as used in cameras and projectors and other scanners… Lastly, I think there is room for a scanner for amateurs in the price range 1000 - 2000 €, something that would resemble your T-scann-8…
@@patrickdelafon8618 Yes it is difficult to detect the hole, feel about 0.3 mm of the hole, so not the whole hole. Commercial scanners do not stop the film but take a picture on the go but these cameras are very expensive. Mechanical gripper I do not want becomes more difficult with super8 / regular 8
@@tscann8 After some thought, I am not sure that image stillness is really a problem. Because I feel that such machine would not be for the general public, but for enthousiasts. And enthousiasts will want to do some post processing which would include stabilization anyway, to get rid of camera shaking when filming. And of course they might want to apply scratch removal, chromatic balancing, brightness control and so on. So some frame positionning error will be dealt with by the stabilization function. I use Deshaker filter under VirtualDub, with excellent results. So I wouldn't mind some vertical movement from one frame to another. I would very much more be concerned with image quality (sharpness and absence of vignetting). And it seems that your setup can acheive good scanning quality...
@@tscann8 Hi Torulf ,I started building my scanner following your project.with some minor changes . eg sprocket vs capstan and traction motor directly on film reel ,then an encoder . For this I need to modify the PCB, would you be so kind,of course if you like,to send me the sch file ,so that I do not have to start from scratch,also because I'm not so good with EasyEDA.Thanks Mauro
I am currently working on updating the software user interface to 64bit and new features. This has been a lot more work than I thought. Now there is a little adjustment of the Arduino code, also better control of stepper motors. When everything is ready, there will be a new video T-Scann 8 ver 2024. I want and hope that everything will be ready during November.
Finally! I have made a new video and project page. It is quite a lot of work to upload all the files and construction instructions. I will probably work on this a week from now before everything is finished
Great 👍
Thanks for the video update Torulf, I have bookmarked your project page and look forward to reading it.
Great stuff... will you sell the 3D printed parts?
@@paulvangestel no but share with me STL files on the project page, tscann8.torulf.com. The page with 3D print parts is not ready, start with it today
@@tscann8 i am folowing it, can’t wait....
Very Impressed with the quality of the final video from your scanner. About 35 years ago I modified a projector, added a bit of electronics to control the speed and lock the film frame from the frame sync 50Hz of the camera. The film ran at 16 and 2/3 frames per second, a bit slower than the 18 frames per second of the film which was not too noticeable but it was the only way to keep things in sync. No computers to help in those days
Thanks !, Yes it was not so easy at that time
Happy New Year from Sweden to all scanner builders, and those of you who are thinking about building T-Scann 8.
The results are good but for a strange colour hue hot spot in the center of the sample. What's that all about?
I don't know, but I use the HQ camera now and another lens / different light will come quite soon with a new video update in 2024
The project page is updated, easier to things
tscann8.torulf.com
Hi, Torulf, i started with the topframe but your dessin is not usable, there is a lot of dimension data missing, maybe not if you have a a3 printer but most of us dont have one, so is it possible to add more dimention,
Thanks,
Paul
ok, i'm adding all the measurements
Hi Paul Chassis-plate is update
@@tscann8 thanks, Torulf
Can you provide more specifics on the microscope lens. I'm interested in building something similar.
I use this shop.pimoroni.com/products/microscope-lens-0-12-1-8x?variant=31885093371987 read all about T-Scann8 tscann8.torulf.com
Has updated arduino software v1.2
Now Arduino is waiting for the Raspberry PI, for the image to be exposed and saved, so you do not have to take into account how fast hard disk you have safer and better. Increased speed to 60 frames / sec.
Then a good tip (thanks Tobias Frid Sweden) if you have problems with I2C errors on the Raspberry Pi page lower Baudrate. Read more on the project page.
Very nice project. I am building a filmscanner myself based on a filmprojector for the mechanics and a Raspbery Pi camera for the images. I have already some results, but you gave me many ideas for improvement. Your comments about the filmgate are very valuable. I am looking forward to see how you control the moter with the led.
Thanks! Would be interesting to see how your scanner is designed, and the quality of the scan
Brilliant piece of work! I am first going to modify one of my old cine film projectors and if that does not work, I will be building one from scratch. Thanks for sharing some of the details, much appreciated.
Thanks!
Hi, did you get the microscope lens? From an actual microscope ? What kind? Thanks in advance. Regards from Spain.
tscann8.torulf.com/t-scann-8---assemble-everything.html
Hi Torulf,
There is a new raspberry camera in higher quality , can it be used also ,
Paul
HQ Camera takes up more space on the back of the lens, so you have to make larger holes in the plate, now the camera v2 is above the plate. The HQ camera must stick under the plate to make room. Furthermore, I do not know if it is possible to use the same lens because the sensor is larger than the industrial camera for which this lens is designed. I think the lens needs to go closer to the film gate to draw the entire sensor surface. So it takes a bit of research, to see if it works with current construction.
@@tscann8 oke, thank you
A new question for you Torulf, what model of the steppermotor did you use, there are several Nema 17 steppers, and, what is the memory size for the arduino?
Greetings,
Paul
@@paulvangestel sorry for late reply, I thought I answered your question. this works important is facade shaft and preferably long cables with connector.
www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-7oz-1-5A-12-24V-42x34mm-1-8-for-3D-Printer-CNC-New/154318758886? hash = item23ee1d63e6: g: kPMAAOSwfb1fK53s
Arduino 32KB
Hi,
Great project. I will put one together asap.
Do you have any plans to build a 16mm version?
Wouldn't it be a killer to be able to change the film frame guide, change a couple of sprockets and rollers and have the 16mm function?
I do realize that it would take some additional programming too.
Thanks! You're not the first to think I should make a 16mm version, when I'm happy with the 8mm version I'll think about it. But in that case it will only be for 16mm, I will not try a version for 8 and 16, there is far too much difference
I wonder: is that electric tape trick for getting rid of dust very effective ? It is the first time I have seen that... Are there any drawbacks ?
Effectively I do not know, but reduce the dust in the first place. Ideally I would like to use silicone, like blackmagic Cintel Scanner but have trouble finding silicone tape. No direct disadvantages the film layer sits very hard
Hi Torulf! I just ordered the PCB and will be ordering the rest of the parts today. I hope I can build this without any issues. I see that you have some info about a 2024 update. Is there anything major coming to the new version? Should I wait to build?
@@Greenlightmike33 no only software update
@ thank you! And you still recommend the Cree CXA1304-0000-000C0UA240H?
@Greenlightmike33 yes
2 more questions:
- you provided the gerber files, is it possible to import them into EasyEDA? I would like to order the PCB fully assembled from jlcpcb
- did you think about adding support for recording Super8 audio? Would this be possible?
PS: would be cool adding film-cleaning as a feature :)
I can't see that it is possible to import gerber files, ready-assembled cards will be expensive I think, as there are no surface-mounted components.
Super 8 sound it would certainly be possible, but then the film has to be run a second time to play the sound and it becomes a bit of manual work to synchronize the sound with the film.
Film cleaning wet scanning it can certainly be in the future.
I do not see a price? I love the whole deal, what kind of led? is it a 20mm Cree 10W XLM T6?
There is no price, you have to build it yourself, this video uses RGB LED, but has switched to white LED recommends CXA1304-0000-000C0UA240H 4W / CRI 95 tscann8.torulf.com/
Hi Torulf,
Your design looks very good. Using a stepping motor to select the frames is smart.
I will continue to monitor your project. And I already start up my 3-D printer ...
Thanks !, went a bit sluggish this weekend, due to shoulder pain, so could not work as hard as planned. Will finish the electronics page first. Then there will be the 3D print parts so keep the 3D printers warm!
@@tscann8 Can't wait to start project
Great project - did you consider using the new Raspberry Pi 12 MP HQ camera for the next upgrade? Would it make sense? I was thinking about purchasing the Wolverine-MovieMaker-Pro but it's very expensive and your solution seems much better .. cheaper and better quality. Do you have infos about this?
I've been using the HQ camera for a long time, I've tried Wolverine-MovieMaker-Pro, it's easier to handle, but mine gets better results but requires a lot of post-work. Have you visited my project page?
@@tscann8 thanks yor your reply - that's what i was thinking .. the Wolverine is too expensive for losing so much quality .. i just visited your page, looks great! Would it make sense using an ESP32 instead of an Arduino? For faster scanning maybe?
@@darklord_ice It's not the Arduino Nano, which limits, saving each frame and drawing forward etc. takes time.
Very impressive! I just tried transferring using a regular projector ... film broke, projector bulb wouldn't turn off and a frame of the film melted. I think I may have to try building one of these... unless you sell the completed product? :)
Thanks! I do not sell, so you have to build yourself
@@tscann8 totally understand... what do you estimate the total cost of parts to build this?
@@CoconutPete somewhere $ 250-300
@@tscann8 awesome... thanks for doing this ... amazing project for sure
Ser bra ut. Men lyskilden din er ikke jevn nok, den sentreres på midten og lager en lysflekk som oppleves som grønnaktig, ihvertfall på min skjerm
På 4:12 ja där är det grönaktigt i mitten, kan tänkas bero på jag körde på någon automatik? var så länge sen har glömt, nu använder jag HQ kameran / vit led / annan ljushus så ska väl bli bättre om jag scannar om den filmen. Du har väl besökt? tscann8.torulf.com/
Today I celebrate subscriber number 300!
Unfortunately, it is not possible to see what this particular premurante is called, depends on his setting on the account. You who started subscribing on November 10 or 11. If you want to tell us your name and which country you live in?
It's been a while since I did any updates on T-Scann8, I've been busy with other things. But will soon start working with it again. What I have started is improved detection of Phototransistor to achieve better precision and new design of traction stop better and simpler desingn, I hope.
Got a new channel name youtube.com/@tscann8
How do you set focus (ställa skärpa) via the RPi? Is the lens you use in front of the existing RPi autofocusable lens? I thought those were manual focus anyway. Or do you move the camera sensor?
There is manual focus on the lens. On the RPI, the image is only enlarged to make it easier to focus.
Nice looking machine, although there are many similar cheap commercial 8mm/Super8 scanners available in the meantime. Unfortunately, they cannot digitize sound films. Therefore I would definitely go for a T-Scann Sound model...
Thanks! Sound addition maybe in the future? There would be an additional real-time run to record the audio. Then add finished videos and sync.
@@tscann8
Hi Torulf,
I have many Super-8 sound movies that I need to digitize. I love that you have decided to share your project. Not just to share for your own glory, showing off what you can do, but so others with the inclination, do not have to reinvent the wheel!! I would likely buy a unit if it was available, but I am also adept at assembling something like this if I have a parts list, if you will, to go by, that I know will work. I'm not much of an inventor but can usually take plans and run with them.
So, I'm a bit concerned about the sound. Many of these cheap units on the market, not only do a poor job of capturing the images, but they offer no way to add the sound easily. What's the point of great images, though, unless you have the original sound to go with it? I am interested in great image quality, if I can add back the sound. What I hear you saying is that if I run the movies normally and record the sound using my Elmo projector, then I should be able to add back the sound track in the post editing, that I will be performing anyway, correct? The only tricky part may be syncing the sound track to the movie, acceptably, correct? Before I go to the cost and effort to build your project, I would like your opinion as to how easy or difficult this is going to be, to add back the sound without super expensive software. Anyone else who has done this, I would love to hear about it.
Tim
@@boxtop1 It can be a bit of work to synchronize the sound. The movie camera sways in speed. The projector sways in speed. The scanned film does not waver in speed. Has filmed (super8) with separate sound on cassette tape
and synchronized scene by scene if the sound is more than 20-25 sec then it works, all sound is not critical it's only if someone is talking, environmental sound, people on the street etc. if some frames are out of sync no one notices. Software for this is free Davinci resolve (free ver) it handles both image and sound. This is the program I use and recommend. Build a scanner, if you are not satisfied, I can help you sell it, I get requests to build and sell from time to time. Which I don't do.
Very impressive. The result is remarkable.
Thanks!
Hi Torulf... really impressed with your results, thinking of building this myself. What size ram do you have on the raspberry pi 4?
thanks! 4GB but I think it works well with 2GB as well
I have a Samikon scanner, but it does a terrible job, is this a possible salvation?
Thank you !, is this the one you have? th-cam.com/video/_hFVtJbZv-U/w-d-xo.html
Seems very noisy image, and low compression on mp4
I would so love to have one like this.
Man that looks great! Awesome work I have been getting stuff together for a scanner project using a Pi as well older model with the same camera. Thanks for sharing this!!
Thanks! have you designed your own scanner? with raspberry PI
@@tscann8 Not a frame by frame one. which is in my opinion the best. I have most everything but I was planning to use an old projector still trying to figure that part out. I really like your design ideally I would like to put something like what you have made. Many hurdles though I don't have a 3d printer and am not to saavy on how to have stuff made. I feel I am still a ways away of getting it put together. It is fun trying to figure it out though.
Maybe this can be an inspiration?
th-cam.com/play/PLEI5wunDDqBXzLR_-AuMZu2M8YHw4ynV4.html
@@tscann8 Very cool thanks!
Happy New Year ! all subscribers from Sweden
Will this ever become a commercial product? I’m not a do it yourself person.
No, have no plans to manufacture and sell
Dear Torulf!
VirtualDub2 (64bit) already handles mp4 videos.
yes VirtualDub (32 bit) and (64 bit) can create mp4 video but in 32bit ver, it does not work with the resolution I use. I do not know if it goes in 64bit ver because "MSU Denoiser Filter" is only available for 32bit ver. So can not use 64bit ver
You have the center discoloration issue that plagued me all these years and drove me completely crazy. I found the cause by myself after years of consulting lens companies as well as sensors companies that weren't even able to explain it to me, it's that these sensors have their bayer filter aligned expressly for small close lenses like on phones or like these camera original lens (for years I thought this was a temperature issue but it was not)
Solution= use a bigger sensor, like the raspberry Pi HQ camera, it simply doesn't have this insidious special bayer alignment (and you get a better resolution)
"center discoloration issue" has never heard of it, what should I look for? I have been using the HQ camera since last autumn, an update with another lens will be coming soon
tscann8.torulf.com/hq-update.html
@@tscann8 at 04:09 notice the green blurb in the middle of the picture, the camera pans and the greenish blurb stays in the center, this is the discoloration I was talking about, this tells me that it was NOT captured with the HQ camera but with one of the older smaller models of raspberry pi cameras.
The HQ camera is safe from this issue.
@Torulf Homström Please tell me: have you've seen the green blurb at 04:09 ? (once you see it once, you won't be able to unsee it, sorry) This issue happens on older raspberry pi cameras because of the distance between the sensor and the lens, their original lenses are almost touching the sensors while a custom M12 lenses or your microscope lens are centimeters aways from the sensor, this strongly changes the angles of the incoming light but the bayer filter ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayer_filter ) is specially aligned to deal with the weird angles of a very close lens. I've seen this issue also with other sensors like the See3CAM_CU130 USB Camera from E-Con and most Arducams. E-con and Arducams are often shipped with M12 lenses and therefore were already having the issue out of the box.
If I could buy your made such a scanner? Thanks.
Sorry but you have to build yourself, I do not sell. Everything you need to know at tscann8.torulf.com
Now I have updated the project page, with more information and better / easier reading about the different 3D print parts
tscann8.torulf.com/top-3dparts.html
Hello
Now there is so much info at tscann8.torulf.com
so you who are planning to build this scanner can start now. My email for questions and comments can be found on the start page / Torulf
This is GOOD! I am sure there would be a market for such a scanner... For people who can't be satisfied with lousy low cost scanners such as Wolverine or Reflecta, but can't afford the expensive professional systems such as MWA FlashScan... It seems that your system can compete with the high price scanners in terms of quality of the result (obviously, not in terms of speed, but that is no problem for the enthousiast). Torulf, have you ever thought about making it a sellable product?
T-Scann 8 requires some work to use, if I were to build a finished unit I would be afraid of a lot of support for the users. If it was perfect image stillness, I would possibly think about it, but now it requires stabilization afterwards. Wolverine and Reflecta are not perfect scanners but they do a decent job anyway. T-Scann8 would cost significantly more as a commercial product.
@@tscann8 The main flaws of Wolverine/Reflecta are the lousy camera and the horrid compression of the files. The high compression noise ruins most scenes - and that compression rate is not adjustable. The mechanical aspect is not too bad once the pressure of the film slides is carefully adjusted (you still get problems on most film collages). I really like the design of your T-scann-8: simple and effective. But, yes, the principal difficulty with your machine is the precise positioning of each frame by means of optical sensing of the film perforations... I can imagine that this is a difficult challenge… You might really need a microscope sensor that would detect the leading edge of the perforation rather than a cell that looks at the entire perforation (I undersatnd that this is what you do?)… Or of course you might need to revert to a mechanical claw such as used in cameras and projectors and other scanners… Lastly, I think there is room for a scanner for amateurs in the price range 1000 - 2000 €, something that would resemble your T-scann-8…
@@patrickdelafon8618 Yes it is difficult to detect the hole, feel about 0.3 mm of the hole, so not the whole hole. Commercial scanners do not stop the film but take a picture on the go but these cameras are very expensive. Mechanical gripper I do not want becomes more difficult with super8 / regular 8
@@tscann8 After some thought, I am not sure that image stillness is really a problem. Because I feel that such machine would not be for the general public, but for enthousiasts. And enthousiasts will want to do some post processing which would include stabilization anyway, to get rid of camera shaking when filming. And of course they might want to apply scratch removal, chromatic balancing, brightness control and so on. So some frame positionning error will be dealt with by the stabilization function. I use Deshaker filter under VirtualDub, with excellent results. So I wouldn't mind some vertical movement from one frame to another. I would very much more be concerned with image quality (sharpness and absence of vignetting). And it seems that your setup can acheive good scanning quality...
Now the project page is updated, focusing only on the HQ version. There are more details and easier to find. tscann8.torulf.com/
Fantastisk maskin du har byggt!
En lätt anti-skak i postproduktion, och folk skulle tro att resultatet är filmat idag!
Tack !
Hi I am impress for this TScann Scanner and video quality is better thn Volvarine Scanner.
Hello
Now there is an update for the HQ camera on the project page tscann8.torulf.com
Wow!!! Unfortunately I can't do it myself :(
maybe you can get help from your friends?
This looks amazing!
Thanks!
I would
Like to buy
Sorry but not selling, but if you want to build yourself or know someone who can build for you.
tscann8.torulf.com/
You are a great master!
Thanks!
Nice project
Cool!
Hi Torulf, very nice project , I like it a lot ! One question which material s did you use for 3d printing ?
Thanks!. I use PLA
@@tscann8 Hi Torulf ,I started building my scanner following your project.with some minor changes . eg sprocket vs capstan and traction motor directly on film reel ,then an encoder . For this I need to modify the PCB, would you be so kind,of course if you like,to send me the sch file ,so that I do not have to start from scratch,also because I'm not so good with EasyEDA.Thanks Mauro
@@Plexi47 email me brev@torulf.com
Very good result. You might get a better picture with Targa instead of jpg.
Unfortunately there is no support for targa, have tried PNG a little better, but take longer to save
@@tscann8 How much did it cost to make? Thanks!
@@spacecitysprockets Hard to say but around 300 $
The first build of your readers is on view now
tscann8.torulf.com/gallery.html
Såå snyggt alltså! Helt unik 📽️
Tack Patrik !. Har sagt det förut du är välkommen till mig o se den live :-)
@@tscann8 Ja det har du gjort :) Får se till att komma ihåg det den här gången
Should never save as jpg, this compresses and reduces the color range.
Yes, raw format is better, but it takes a very long time to scan film. But it is possible to change the code. jpeg can be adjusted quite a lot anyway
See the latest video about great improvement with UV led th-cam.com/video/wecZJvvL05c/w-d-xo.html
Watch my latest video th-cam.com/video/kzGTZtSaV0Y/w-d-xo.html ver 2024
This is accurate, not in any quality and the work is even worse.