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No, have no plans to manufacture and sell

På 4:12 ja där är det grönaktigt i mitten, kan tänkas bero på jag körde på någon automatik? var så länge sen har glömt, nu använder jag HQ kameran / vit led / annan ljushus så ska väl bli bättre om jag scannar om den filmen. Du har väl besökt? tscann8.torulf.com/

Have you named your USB stick or hard drive to "SMALFILM"? (if you haven't changed the code) then type in "Sweden2018" for example in the user interface.

yes you can use UNO, but then you have to make your own pcb

No a lot of work to build, Want to spend my time improving it not really satisfied yet. So if you are building yourself or you know someone who can help you build it?

@@tscann8 I'm thinking about hiring an engineer to do something similar for me :(, if I do, could you sell me your program? so that it is based on that mechanics. Honestly, I would really, really like to replicate your work, it's too good

@@tscann8 Is there any other way to contact you? to chat a little more if you are interested

@@yisuscarrillo3913 tscann8.torulf.com/ Everything is here for free email if you have any questions.

Thanks! It is possible to scale up for 16mm film, you have to modify every part, especially the film gate so it is not just about making everything bigger

thanks! 4GB but I think it works well with 2GB as well

Thank you

I can't see that it is possible to import gerber files, ready-assembled cards will be expensive I think, as there are no surface-mounted components. Super 8 sound it would certainly be possible, but then the film has to be run a second time to play the sound and it becomes a bit of manual work to synchronize the sound with the film. Film cleaning wet scanning it can certainly be in the future.

I've been using the HQ camera for a long time, I've tried Wolverine-MovieMaker-Pro, it's easier to handle, but mine gets better results but requires a lot of post-work. Have you visited my project page?

@@tscann8 thanks yor your reply - that's what i was thinking .. the Wolverine is too expensive for losing so much quality .. i just visited your page, looks great! Would it make sense using an ESP32 instead of an Arduino? For faster scanning maybe?

@@darklord_ice It's not the Arduino Nano, which limits, saving each frame and drawing forward etc. takes time.

Thanks! I use this www.electrokit.com/produkt/wp7113p3c-5mm-fototransistor-30v-0-5ma/ The wavelength is not specified exactly, it doesn't have that much sensitivity at 400nm, but it's enough, if you don't buy exactly this one, there are similar ones, look at the diagram data sheet, if it's higher sensitivity than this one, it's just fine

Thanks! You're not the first to think I should make a 16mm version, when I'm happy with the 8mm version I'll think about it. But in that case it will only be for 16mm, I will not try a version for 8 and 16, there is far too much difference

Yes, raw format is better, but it takes a very long time to scan film. But it is possible to change the code. jpeg can be adjusted quite a lot anyway

maybe you can get help from your friends?

I use this shop.pimoroni.com/products/microscope-lens-0-12-1-8x?variant=31885093371987 read all about T-Scann8 tscann8.torulf.com

Sorry but don't build and sell, you have to build yourself. Maybe you know someone who can help you?

Thanks!. I don't use RGB anymore, white light is better. Feel free to watch my other videos about T-Scann8.

Hi I use this lens shop.pimoroni.com/products/microscope-lens-0-12-1-8x?variant=31885093371987 and HQ camera read more here tscann8.torulf.com/

Thanks! Sound addition maybe in the future? There would be an additional real-time run to record the audio. Then add finished videos and sync.

@@tscann8 Hi Torulf, I have many Super-8 sound movies that I need to digitize. I love that you have decided to share your project. Not just to share for your own glory, showing off what you can do, but so others with the inclination, do not have to reinvent the wheel!! I would likely buy a unit if it was available, but I am also adept at assembling something like this if I have a parts list, if you will, to go by, that I know will work. I'm not much of an inventor but can usually take plans and run with them. So, I'm a bit concerned about the sound. Many of these cheap units on the market, not only do a poor job of capturing the images, but they offer no way to add the sound easily. What's the point of great images, though, unless you have the original sound to go with it? I am interested in great image quality, if I can add back the sound. What I hear you saying is that if I run the movies normally and record the sound using my Elmo projector, then I should be able to add back the sound track in the post editing, that I will be performing anyway, correct? The only tricky part may be syncing the sound track to the movie, acceptably, correct? Before I go to the cost and effort to build your project, I would like your opinion as to how easy or difficult this is going to be, to add back the sound without super expensive software. Anyone else who has done this, I would love to hear about it. Tim

@@boxtop1 It can be a bit of work to synchronize the sound. The movie camera sways in speed. The projector sways in speed. The scanned film does not waver in speed. Has filmed (super8) with separate sound on cassette tape and synchronized scene by scene if the sound is more than 20-25 sec then it works, all sound is not critical it's only if someone is talking, environmental sound, people on the street etc. if some frames are out of sync no one notices. Software for this is free Davinci resolve (free ver) it handles both image and sound. This is the program I use and recommend. Build a scanner, if you are not satisfied, I can help you sell it, I get requests to build and sell from time to time. Which I don't do.

Thanks!

I do not sell or build, you have to build one yourself or if you know someone who can help you? tscann8.torulf.com/

I have a Wolverine Pro at work. T-Scann8 gets better. Will soon publish a comparison with this one. It is possible to improve the result from Wolverine Pro, low sharpness add sharpness afterwards and reduce noise then it starts to look decent. I got a 3D printer when I was going to build my scanner since I was working on electronics only it is a good reason to get 3D printers

Effectively I do not know, but reduce the dust in the first place. Ideally I would like to use silicone, like blackmagic Cintel Scanner but have trouble finding silicone tape. No direct disadvantages the film layer sits very hard

Yes, but I have no customers, everyone has to build themselves

@@tscann8 Aha, I went another way and bought my scanner. To bear the cost, I sometimes take a few customers when I have time.

There is no price, you have to build it yourself, this video uses RGB LED, but has switched to white LED recommends CXA1304-0000-000C0UA240H 4W / CRI 95 tscann8.torulf.com/

Thanks! / Unfortunately you have to build it yourself tscann8.torulf.com/

This one is better, but expensive! and requires extender www.edmundoptics.com/p/50mm-dg-series-fixed-focal-length-lens/11369/ Could it be that chromatic aberration can be reduced by better LED light?

Thanks!

Hej Johan tack! -1/ har bytt upp kamera osv skulle jag bygga en idag 3000 kr i delar kanske -2/ oj hundra tals timmar -3/ bygga en scanner till mig själv då kostade den billigaste 17000 kr reflexa för 5000 kr fanns inte då 2015 -4/ nej besök tscann8.torulf.com och se hur du bygger en själv

I visited your site last year, and looked at scanner construction there. Different propulsion frames interesting! I have tried laser and reflection on the film in 2020, I think it would be a bit of a problem if the film was not completely flat, abandoned the method anyway. But feel free to use UV LED for your scanner, if you want you can mention T-Scann 8 good luck.

@@tscann8 I already mentioned your t-scann on my project's facebook page

@@35mmMovieTrailersScans :-)

"center discoloration issue" has never heard of it, what should I look for? I have been using the HQ camera since last autumn, an update with another lens will be coming soon tscann8.torulf.com/hq-update.html

@@tscann8 at 04:09 notice the green blurb in the middle of the picture, the camera pans and the greenish blurb stays in the center, this is the discoloration I was talking about, this tells me that it was NOT captured with the HQ camera but with one of the older smaller models of raspberry pi cameras. The HQ camera is safe from this issue.

@Torulf Homström Please tell me: have you've seen the green blurb at 04:09 ? (once you see it once, you won't be able to unsee it, sorry) This issue happens on older raspberry pi cameras because of the distance between the sensor and the lens, their original lenses are almost touching the sensors while a custom M12 lenses or your microscope lens are centimeters aways from the sensor, this strongly changes the angles of the incoming light but the bayer filter ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayer_filter ) is specially aligned to deal with the weird angles of a very close lens. I've seen this issue also with other sensors like the See3CAM_CU130 USB Camera from E-Con and most Arducams. E-con and Arducams are often shipped with M12 lenses and therefore were already having the issue out of the box.

T-Scann 8 requires some work to use, if I were to build a finished unit I would be afraid of a lot of support for the users. If it was perfect image stillness, I would possibly think about it, but now it requires stabilization afterwards. Wolverine and Reflecta are not perfect scanners but they do a decent job anyway. T-Scann8 would cost significantly more as a commercial product.

@@tscann8 The main flaws of Wolverine/Reflecta are the lousy camera and the horrid compression of the files. The high compression noise ruins most scenes - and that compression rate is not adjustable. The mechanical aspect is not too bad once the pressure of the film slides is carefully adjusted (you still get problems on most film collages). I really like the design of your T-scann-8: simple and effective. But, yes, the principal difficulty with your machine is the precise positioning of each frame by means of optical sensing of the film perforations... I can imagine that this is a difficult challenge… You might really need a microscope sensor that would detect the leading edge of the perforation rather than a cell that looks at the entire perforation (I undersatnd that this is what you do?)… Or of course you might need to revert to a mechanical claw such as used in cameras and projectors and other scanners… Lastly, I think there is room for a scanner for amateurs in the price range 1000 - 2000 €, something that would resemble your T-scann-8…

@@patrickdelafon8618 Yes it is difficult to detect the hole, feel about 0.3 mm of the hole, so not the whole hole. Commercial scanners do not stop the film but take a picture on the go but these cameras are very expensive. Mechanical gripper I do not want becomes more difficult with super8 / regular 8

@@tscann8 After some thought, I am not sure that image stillness is really a problem. Because I feel that such machine would not be for the general public, but for enthousiasts. And enthousiasts will want to do some post processing which would include stabilization anyway, to get rid of camera shaking when filming. And of course they might want to apply scratch removal, chromatic balancing, brightness control and so on. So some frame positionning error will be dealt with by the stabilization function. I use Deshaker filter under VirtualDub, with excellent results. So I wouldn't mind some vertical movement from one frame to another. I would very much more be concerned with image quality (sharpness and absence of vignetting). And it seems that your setup can acheive good scanning quality...