I watched this and got a little worried about my clunk when coming to a complete stop AND taking off from a complete stop. My diff fluid was dark and burnt smelling, but gears looked ok. I watched other videos explaining that the clunk is the rear driveshaft yoke sticking and releasing. I decided to drop the driveshaft and lube splines with trans fluid since it was the easy route. The great news is it worked beautifully. Not even a hint of a clunk. Mine is a 11.5” rear on a 2014 3500
Ever since I tunes mine when I let off the throttle and coast, then get back on it, it’s got a nice thud pretty shitty curious if it’s the rear or tcase?
I mean who knows really. But i would suspect the yoke in the driveline maybe sticking or maybe the tailshaft on the tranny. Hard to say. These transmissions do not handle anything other than the stock programming really. I know people will disagree. But over the extebded arc of history. The ones that fail are the ones that have hauled beyond recommended tow capacity and the ones where the shift programming has been altered.
It only takes 30 min to drop the drive shaft and grease splines. I was able to reuse the metal clamps for the rubber boot. Or just cut off and use quality zip ties
Oh man. I just changed the oil and let it clunk. Doesnt really bother me yet. Going to have to get worse. I never drive it anyway. Somebody made a comment to spray the driveshaft yoke, that it was sticking. I cinsidered that and thought. Eh. Doubt it but lets lube it anyways. I did . It changed nothing. Soo. As for now. She s a clunker
@@angrybeard4673from what I’m dealing with, clunking on shifting (automatic) and accelerating, it wasnt the black lash after I made sure it was within spec, searching more and inspecting mine and noticed my spider gears were sorta rounded off on my Chrysler 8.25 w/225k. Reading spider gear play can cause that clunking just like excessive backlash
So you dont beleive that little measureable amounts of backlash can translate into anything noteable. I should point out that the amount of rotation in the driveline was a quarter of an inch. You can see this by watching the bolt that bolts the driveshaft to the flange. Thereby eliminating any option for that amount of play to be anywhere other than at the flange. The amount of backlash was about .020 yet it translates into a whole quarter of an inch at the drive shaft. This is the source of the clunk.
The problem is it's a Dodge many of them have problems with either the differential or the transmission I'm not knocking a Dodge but I have never had a problem with Ford differentials
@@78fordtruck4 LOL. Well. You are correct about that. They have other issues too. They all do. However it would be just wrong if I failed remind everyone of a fun Ford fact. They gave everyone the infamous 6.0 liter engine. Which was not only a self destructive little beast. But is also responsible for delayed treatment and even death for those who had the misfortune of taking an ambulance ride in in a 6.0 equipped unit. I had a Ford with the 6.0. I loved that truck but , it got sick and just had to go. Dodge front axles have shit geometry so they're always ruining ball joints too. Turbo actuators go out. EGR coolers crack. They all have there thing. I personally like the 6.7 liter Fords. I like the Ford chassis better, I like the interior better, the way they drive better. The 6.7 is a beast. But. I have a dodge. I have had many dodges. I do find the Fords are more attractive. Though they're 10 speed transmission madness is a mess. I'll tell you what really sucks. It just seems like nowadays these manufacturers are in such a hurry to get shit out to market. They seem to have lowered there quality control. Leaving the customer as the tested for the product and then fixing the major shit that they can't get away with ignoring through recalls and warranty. Making it your problem.
The clunk is very hard to explain. Lol. My 2018 2500 ram is doing the exact same thing. Thank you very much!
I am waiting on your next video homie.
I watched this and got a little worried about my clunk when coming to a complete stop AND taking off from a complete stop. My diff fluid was dark and burnt smelling, but gears looked ok. I watched other videos explaining that the clunk is the rear driveshaft yoke sticking and releasing. I decided to drop the driveshaft and lube splines with trans fluid since it was the easy route. The great news is it worked beautifully. Not even a hint of a clunk. Mine is a 11.5” rear on a 2014 3500
What videos did you watch explaining that it was the rear drive shaft yoke sticking? Can you share a link please?
th-cam.com/video/suM5h1Be6Jc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QUywnIBEXc-iOL9q
More likely to be the carrier bearing than the diff with that little excess backlash. You can adjust that easily by dropping the driveshaft.
@@dwarrowdane1 there is no play at the carrier bearing. That would be verified by pushing on it. It has no movement
Can I change my rear differential ram 1500 2008 4.7 to rear differential 2500 heavy duty? Thx 4 help
Ever since I tunes mine when I let off the throttle and coast, then get back on it, it’s got a nice thud pretty shitty curious if it’s the rear or tcase?
I mean who knows really. But i would suspect the yoke in the driveline maybe sticking or maybe the tailshaft on the tranny. Hard to say. These transmissions do not handle anything other than the stock programming really. I know people will disagree. But over the extebded arc of history. The ones that fail are the ones that have hauled beyond recommended tow capacity and the ones where the shift programming has been altered.
It only takes 30 min to drop the drive shaft and grease splines. I was able to reuse the metal clamps for the rubber boot. Or just cut off and use quality zip ties
What automotive lift do you have in your shop ...I'm looking for one to do cars and my dodge ram diesel...
Cant recall. I have a you tube video on my channel somewhere. Drm or something like that
What happened after the 75w140 gear oil change?
Oh man. I just changed the oil and let it clunk. Doesnt really bother me yet. Going to have to get worse. I never drive it anyway. Somebody made a comment to spray the driveshaft yoke, that it was sticking. I cinsidered that and thought. Eh. Doubt it but lets lube it anyways. I did . It changed nothing. Soo. As for now. She s a clunker
@@angrybeard4673from what I’m dealing with, clunking on shifting (automatic) and accelerating, it wasnt the black lash after I made sure it was within spec, searching more and inspecting mine and noticed my spider gears were sorta rounded off on my Chrysler 8.25 w/225k. Reading spider gear play can cause that clunking just like excessive backlash
Not causing a clunking problem with that little of backlash.
So you dont beleive that little measureable amounts of backlash can translate into anything noteable. I should point out that the amount of rotation in the driveline was a quarter of an inch. You can see this by watching the bolt that bolts the driveshaft to the flange. Thereby eliminating any option for that amount of play to be anywhere other than at the flange. The amount of backlash was about .020 yet it translates into a whole quarter of an inch at the drive shaft. This is the source of the clunk.
My 2014 3500 has 205,000 miles on it with severe towing and the clunk was the slip yoke at the rear needed lube.
The problem is it's a Dodge many of them have problems with either the differential or the transmission I'm not knocking a Dodge but I have never had a problem with Ford differentials
@@78fordtruck4 LOL. Well. You are correct about that. They have other issues too. They all do. However it would be just wrong if I failed remind everyone of a fun Ford fact. They gave everyone the infamous 6.0 liter engine. Which was not only a self destructive little beast. But is also responsible for delayed treatment and even death for those who had the misfortune of taking an ambulance ride in in a 6.0 equipped unit. I had a Ford with the 6.0. I loved that truck but , it got sick and just had to go. Dodge front axles have shit geometry so they're always ruining ball joints too. Turbo actuators go out. EGR coolers crack. They all have there thing. I personally like the 6.7 liter Fords. I like the Ford chassis better, I like the interior better, the way they drive better. The 6.7 is a beast. But. I have a dodge. I have had many dodges. I do find the Fords are more attractive. Though they're 10 speed transmission madness is a mess. I'll tell you what really sucks. It just seems like nowadays these manufacturers are in such a hurry to get shit out to market. They seem to have lowered there quality control. Leaving the customer as the tested for the product and then fixing the major shit that they can't get away with ignoring through recalls and warranty. Making it your problem.
Maybe no problem. With differential. But when that cp4 blows its a 7 thousand dollar fix if ya do it yourself. 10 thousand if pay someone.