I'm amazed this video doesn't have more views than this. Your explanation was fantastic. Would you happen to know what it means when your runout value is the same, but your low/highest value keeps changing? For example, let's say I found the lowest spot on my rotor and set the caliper to 10 thousandths. I then spinned the rotor, but everytime I come back to the lowest point it now somehow shifts .001" back. So, instead of the lowest point showing 10 thousandths, it goes backwards to 9 thousdanths and so on.
Thanks for the compliment! If the scale of numbers continue to shift, that signifies the dial indicator body is moving relative to the point of measurement. It could be the mounting of the dial indicator is shifting. That’s the most likely cause in my experience.
Really good video. You are measuring the TIR at that he rotor outboard side. This measurement essentially includes the run out for both, the wheel bearing and the rotor. BUT, note that is possible to measure dead zero TIR and still have run out! Why? Because the rotor inboard side is not being taken into account. TIR measurements should include both faces of the rotor. I seldomly see this mentioned, is this case the same for you?
Thanks for the feedback. I agree, we rarely discuss an inside measurement. We typically look at TIR and work inward while discussing common symptoms of parallelism issues of the rotor.
Hmm… others have said to need to spin the rotor counter clock wise and take off the rotor , but in this video u did the opposite , is there a reason why
Would you be able to send me type and name brand of dial indicator used in this video ,and where i may be able to purchase exact or similar one? Thank you!
I got the harbor freight cheap one and it’s giving me all different readings , my low spots changes constantly …I need his dual indicator , it seems to be accurate
That's why i end up doing my work at home. It takes too long to do stuff right for shops to actually make any money. If you want something done right...
All you hack mechanic shop owners take notice. If you don't check runout when doing rotor replacement for what you like to tell customers is a "warped rotor" you're a hack.
No kidding! I have a 2022 Lexus RX350 with 54,000kms. I took it to Lexus because there is a pulsation when braking. The service department comes back and tells me I need to replace all 4 rotors because they are warped. Then they tell me warranty isn’t covering it because the brakes weren’t serviced at the recommended 32,000km mark. I ask them what the runout was and they say they never checked…. the mechanic went by the way the car felt during the test drive.🙄 This is at a luxury dealership where the shop rates are astronomical so it’s not like they aren’t making a good wage!
I’ve done brake jobs when I was younger… I’ll be doing them again it seems. I think I’ll get myself a runout-gauge setup like this though so I can do it “properly”.
@@beri232 They should have checked hub runout, installing new rotors on a hub runout over .002 with brand new pads will seem to drive fine until the rotor gets uneven friction material build up on the high spot. Then it's back to pulsing again. Sometimes it can take 6-12 months. You can correct a runout up to .009 with brake rotor/hub shims from napa. The V notch on the shim aligns with the high spot on the hub.
@@Reloadeez Today, I just swapped out the OEM Rotors with EBC smooth rotors and Akebono pads. Rides like new now. ALL of the slide pins were seized on the calipers which was likely the problem. I used Mission silicone on the slide pins instead of the junk Lexus uses. It’s obviously garbage if it loses all lubricity in just 2 years.
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This was the absolute best example and explanation I've come across. Immediately subscribed. You guys need way more views
Thanks for watching!
Excellent explanation and demonstration. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Great how to video, but what is the product description of the conical washers and where did you source them? Thanks.
Nice explanation!! Easy to understand!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thank you very clear and concise.
Glad it was helpful!
I'm amazed this video doesn't have more views than this. Your explanation was fantastic.
Would you happen to know what it means when your runout value is the same, but your low/highest value keeps changing?
For example, let's say I found the lowest spot on my rotor and set the caliper to 10 thousandths. I then spinned the rotor, but everytime I come back to the lowest point it now somehow shifts .001" back. So, instead of the lowest point showing 10 thousandths, it goes backwards to 9 thousdanths and so on.
Thanks for the compliment! If the scale of numbers continue to shift, that signifies the dial indicator body is moving relative to the point of measurement. It could be the mounting of the dial indicator is shifting. That’s the most likely cause in my experience.
thank you!
If you have .002" run out and have heavy brake shimmy, what else could be causing the problem?
Really good video. You are measuring the TIR at that he rotor outboard side. This measurement essentially includes the run out for both, the wheel bearing and the rotor. BUT, note that is possible to measure dead zero TIR and still have run out! Why? Because the rotor inboard side is not being taken into account. TIR measurements should include both faces of the rotor. I seldomly see this mentioned, is this case the same for you?
Thanks for the feedback. I agree, we rarely discuss an inside measurement. We typically look at TIR and work inward while discussing common symptoms of parallelism issues of the rotor.
Hmm… others have said to need to spin the rotor counter clock wise and take off the rotor , but in this video u did the opposite , is there a reason why
Good Video
Thank you for watching!
@@AdamsAnalysis thank you
Thanks sir
Would you be able to send me type and name brand of dial indicator used in this video ,and where i may be able to purchase exact or similar one? Thank you!
I got the harbor freight cheap one and it’s giving me all different readings , my low spots changes constantly …I need his dual indicator , it seems to be accurate
Where do I buy the lug nut spacers?
Those are a Kent-Moore special tool. www.toolsource.com/rotor-surfacing-c-1321_79_89/brake-rotor-runout-washers-p-112384.html
man, thats a lot of work. I can only imagine having to do it on all 4 tires
Dont be lazy. My mechanic here in Denver charges $150.00 per hour. I can do all 4 rotors in under 1 hour. Your choice.
You will spend less than 20 minutes to check runout on all four tires. I do it every time I finish a brake job to assure zero comebacks.
That's why i end up doing my work at home. It takes too long to do stuff right for shops to actually make any money. If you want something done right...
anyone know where i can get the spacer or ejat i can use similar to the spacers to tighten lug nuts
They are a Kent-Moore tool. J-45101-100
@@AdamsAnalysis thank you
🔥
Thank you!
Snakes are janky! Find a mount you can mount right ti the caliper bracket. Screw the straight arm right into the caliper mount hole.
All you hack mechanic shop owners take notice. If you don't check runout when doing rotor replacement for what you like to tell customers is a "warped rotor" you're a hack.
No kidding! I have a 2022 Lexus RX350 with 54,000kms. I took it to Lexus because there is a pulsation when braking. The service department comes back and tells me I need to replace all 4 rotors because they are warped. Then they tell me warranty isn’t covering it because the brakes weren’t serviced at the recommended 32,000km mark. I ask them what the runout was and they say they never checked…. the mechanic went by the way the car felt during the test drive.🙄 This is at a luxury dealership where the shop rates are astronomical so it’s not like they aren’t making a good wage!
I’ve done brake jobs when I was younger… I’ll be doing them again it seems. I think I’ll get myself a runout-gauge setup like this though so I can do it “properly”.
@@beri232 They should have checked hub runout, installing new rotors on a hub runout over .002 with brand new pads will seem to drive fine until the rotor gets uneven friction material build up on the high spot. Then it's back to pulsing again. Sometimes it can take 6-12 months. You can correct a runout up to .009 with brake rotor/hub shims from napa. The V notch on the shim aligns with the high spot on the hub.
@@Reloadeez Today, I just swapped out the OEM Rotors with EBC smooth rotors and Akebono pads. Rides like new now. ALL of the slide pins were seized on the calipers which was likely the problem. I used Mission silicone on the slide pins instead of the junk Lexus uses. It’s obviously garbage if it loses all lubricity in just 2 years.