Having gone through many of these similar upgrades on my GR, I found myself questioning whether many were worth it. The stock headshell is superb and one of the lightest available, great for those mid to higher compliance carts. The KAB damper gave me mixed results. I only found it beneficial for carts whose compliance was too high for my arm, mostly vintage ones. For everything else the damper softened the sound too much, especially with my Hana SL and ML. You can spend thousands on upgrades and perhaps you will hear a tiny difference or perhaps, like me, you will have to try and convince yourself it was worth it. In the end, I returned my GR to mostly stock and sold most of the aftermarkets. The only ones I kept were a Herbies mat, damper for my high comp carts, and higher quality interconnects. I would definitely recommend spending money on a better cartridge or better phono stage before going down the rabbit hole of aftermarkets and diminishing returns.
I agree entirely. My experience with similar upgrades (on the 1200G) is that in some cases there were extremely subtle and barley audible changes -- and in most cases not better, not worse. This applies to the KAB tonearm damper and an external power supply (a tried and tested linear low-noise design that I diy'd myself). I've had a little more success with diy interconnects and tonearm wire. Biggest changes have been though trying cartridges and phono preamps, and getting a record cleaner (washer/vacuum type). I would say, however, that the biggest change in my enjoyment of the turntable has been in buying more vinyl! For the price of the KAB damper and an off-the-shelf external PSU, you can get nearly 40 high quality new vinyl records.
I installed the KAB fluid damper mod and was completely blown away by a much much improved stereo image, it was a huge upgrade!! As was the Achromat And the stupidly expensive pure magnesium Jelco headshell.
entirely agree. First , KAB Kevin Barrett is the best resource ..and Technics honestly should pay the guy and hire him as a consultant. All these upgrades may make 1 millionth of a difference. Put them up to blind tests. Won't hold out. The Gimbal arm is fine. I have the SL 1000 RES, the SL 1200 Gold, the 1200 M5G and many earlier ones. The tonearm dampening didn't make a huge acoustic difference to ME but YMMC. it became a dewey mess. the TT is awesome. Allows for quick changeouts of cartridges...which is fun within minutes. And I have had 3 VPI"s, Regas, Music Halls etc. The Technics rocks.
The only upgrade I've made to my GR is the addition of the Little Fwend tonearm lifter. Lovely little thing. No longer have to rush over at the end of every album.
@@sids2012 yeah, I believe that's the 1200 version. I love it. A bit fiddly to set up but it's so smooth and gentle. Just a gentle press down to reset it after each side is all you need to do once you get it dialed in. A bit pricey but it's extremely well made (all machined parts) and reliable. Vinyl Attack has a video on it, go check it out.
Just installed their “Disco” for Technics version and yea it works great! Recently bought a GR but was tempted by the 1500c mainly due to auto-return feature. Now I’m appreciating the better turntable and no worries more relaxing approach to listening with this brilliant addition. I really had to search hard to find an online retailer who still had this specific Disco model in stock. Seems it’s increasingly difficult to find. Shame as it’s the single biggest simple upgrade so far 👍
I agree. This is actually bullshit. Many people love Technics but are contradicting themselves peddling bullshit. He said this was "astounding" then he compared it to inferior direct drive turn tables. So he's saying the technics is "astounding" but he starts comparing inferior models. Then he wants you to buy add ons for '"inferior' models " and apply it to his astounding TT. Later in the video the Technics is " excellent". Then he compares Michael Fremerss 20k TT and he doesn't get the price right. I wonder if this guy is high? Then he talks about "noise". Upgrade your power cord. Any engineer knows that the power cord is like snake oil. Michael Fremer if he watched his recent video, upgraded his whole god damn house ground. House ground, that's it....so you're going to pay for a power cord maybe spend 500 bucks but your AC supply to the circuit breaker board is shit? really?
KAB Electro Acoustics is a nice place to get Technics parts. I have had good service from them. Buying Technics parts directly from Panasonic Encompass parts on line has worked well for me. I like my Funk Firm mat on my sl1200mK5 Great video!
Thank you for mentioning our EPS in your video. We would like to point some things out: our EPS is the worldwide only linear PSU with internal current regulation pcb, made by us to exact design as original SMPS pcb mounted on the GAE/G/Gr. All the direct drive decks suffer if current regulation board is located far from the motor, as they need instant power by request, something you cannot achieve with a normal (and cheaper) external circuit. Original SMPS (switching) power supply is clearly audible if you use an external pre-phono (a lot worse if you use a hi-gain step up for MC carts), so we think that the first step in upgrading a near perfect gear as the GAE/G is to eradicate the noise, then you can go to improve the other parts. BTW original tonearm is a piece of art and absolutely stunning in performance, opposite to the cheap RCA cables supplied with the deck. Best, Precision Sound Lab
No Idea why it took me so long to find your channel, but excellent job! I've been drooling over the 1200G for a while now. It's rare to see that level of engineering go into a modern table of that price.
Hi there! Thanks! I've seen also some of your videos and they were excellent, in particular I remember the one on high fidelity classical music labels. Great info!
You can only really do it if you've got a parent company like Panasonic behind you. I think I read that the 1200G and the 1000G are prestige, low volume products that they don't really make much money on but they enhance the brand.
Top tip. Clean the contacts in the head shell with switch cleaner. It's a simple thing but I am sure you will notice the difference. Your audio chain is only as good as the weekest link.
That is how you enjoy it and this is how I enjoy it, making it better and more precisely illustrating to others how this can be done. Why your point of view should be better? Moreover, why watch if you are already happy? ;-)
Hello from Germany and thank you for your efforts. I got the SL 1210 G in black for my second hand records and for my daughter and her lps as an entry to good analog playback. The washi mat is really good and looks very nice. Pick up is a Ortofon Concorde Club 2 and what can I say - this setup is really good - even in comparison to a legend like the the Sony PSX 9 with original cartridge.
@@danender5555 😂 Yes Sir, I am a real snob 😉 In fact I bought it second hand, being a steal for the money. I need it also for archive purposes and swapping a cartridge is done in minutes. I got about 6500 records, so there is some work to do. Happy listening🙂
@@stefanhooss2822 Well, to taint a $4000 turntable with $200 cartridge is not very snobbish... But for second hand records the consumable cartridge may play well, especially when your daughter use it too... However, you forgot to mention, what is your primary turntable for your mint shaped records? Let me guess... Continuum Caliburn
@@danender5555 🙃Certainly not a Caliburn - for this amount of money I would rather buy a good italian violin or one or two good french violin bows😉The cleaned or mint records are played on a TW Acustic Raven GT with original TW Acustic Raven 10.5 arm and a Dynavector XX MK 2 cartridge. I am not rich - I was a teacher and am now retired - but I like high fidelity and music. Having no expensive car, don't smoking and drinking and not divorced - I could save some money ...😊
4 ปีที่แล้ว +1
1200MKII - for "beginner audiophile" - been using several since 1990 - not a beginner, work in professional field , nothing comes close. Use slightly modded models for professional archival service, Vinyl to digital remasters, and my stripped down ones for turntablism and DJ service/ studio work . It's the most versatile and durable turntable out there. Fremer's fancy $25,000 Turntable.. it's pretty and functional but the buyer is paying for the R&D that's why it's so expensive and there are no improvements, especially if you isolate/tweak your 1200 properly. That's another topic as well as proper use of Cartridge / Stylus combos and the basic overhaul of copper cable inside and in headshell / output. Thanks for the video about upgrading the modern 1200 series.
I'm surprised Technics doesn't make a newer suspended platter/ tone arm design like they had back in the 70s and early 80s. I have a Technics SL1800 mk2 that was based on the 1200 but had a full dampened suspension. You can jump up and down, or knock on the plinth and will never hear any thumps. Its a great design.
IMHO if you buy a turntable (any turntable) then spend a fortune on upgrades or improvements, then you've bought the wrong turntable in the first place.
Not necessarily. Maybe its just that your budget wasn't sufficient to get the sound you were really after. Nothing wrong with trying upgrades to incrementally improve the sound.
Nostalgia costs. 😂 I have replaced the 2 technics 1200 mk2 that I got rid of in my youth. I read/heard the new ones weren’t as good so I bought and rebuilt 2. Great Learning. Proud of myself for accomplishing tear down and rebuilding. This fix can be passed down as I’m getting my 6 year old grandson into listening to records. We may need to change some electronics in the future but that too is replaceable.
I have the same TT in black 1210G.I'm using MNPCTEC height adjustment feet in silver with sorbothane isolation. There one lb a peice. I love the way thet look. Alsoim considering using a Ikea chopping board for a plinth.
Better an isolation platform. Even the moderately priced Zazen is a good solution. Here is a video with three different budgets I made: th-cam.com/video/v3r5ubI3Tgo/w-d-xo.html
I have a SL-1200 MK III, with a SME series III tonearm, this also includes the fluid damper, and wires replacement. It uses Isonoe black isolation feet,. Replaced all the lights with LED’s. Added hinges for the dust cover and last one uses a better cartridge a moving coil one from Hana the SL Series. Everything, but the cartridge was sourced from eBay. Total cost including turntable and cartridge was $2,350 USD Next step will be an external power supply, but maybe I will go with a good power cable. Fluid damper came optional first in the SME Series iii, then it was standard. This SL-1200 sounds really good, as good as my Series 20 (Pioneer) with a SME Series III and a Dynavector 20X2, I purchased this turntable back in 1980, but the cartridge I purchased it last year substituting a Dynavector 17D.
externalising the power supply is more valuable than a power cable. Personally I wouldn't want to have a separate power supply as it would make playing out a pain in the ass as a DJ. But I do want to at least get the strobe disablers and DC regulators from Kabusa.
What great timing for this video to be posted. I just upgraded my headshell to the Orsonic AV-101s as recommended on a previous video. But I broke a rule and changed the headshell, leads, and cartridge at the same time! Definite improvement, but what gave the most improvement I won’t know. I still found I had some albums that didn’t sound as good as I know they should be low bass edgy highs. I played with VTA and could get one album to sound better but then the next would require tweaking. I also thought about tone arm vibrations and tried to think of low cost quick solution. I came up with putting 10 small dental rubber bands on the arm in a staggered distance; spaced far apart towards the base and bunched closer as you get to the headshell. The thought here is to break up the nodes of the vibration. Did not make any calculations for this just visually spaced. This is a-bit ugly, But, resulting sound is more important then good looks, to me!This made a significant difference in the sound it brought down the edgy highs and gave me the bass I was expecting. It may have dulled the vocals (still testing it out). Between this test and your video I’m a believer in needing to address vibrations in the turntable and the arm !! Question, before this I was thinking about the isoacoustics for my speaker. I would need the 2 sets of the Gaia II. Vs purchasing an island for the turntable. What would you recommend doing first, speakers or turntable?
Brilliant video! I tried an oelback power supply and i have to say it is amazing i could even go as far as saying it is the most important thing along with the cartridge and Wood math. Technics SL 1200 mk 4 is My favourite Model along with the gr g and 1000 ofc its the best.
ANA[DIA]LOG thx for replying so soon! I admire your knowledge on TT-maths and resonance. I will look into the 30 dollar version For My new at2lpx since it has a felt math
The best upgrade I performed on my SL-1200 MK2 was replacing the stock tonearm for a Jelco TK-850S. Night & day difference. Unfortunately Jelco as a company closed and stopped manufacturing due to the pandemic.
What changed to the better? Less vibrations picked up by the cart/arm? And, are you still able to adjust VTA on the fly with the regular VTA ring with the Jelco? It's slightly heavier than the stock Technics arm so I guess it rules out some very high compliance carts. But then again, if you swap tonearms one tables you're most likely to use an expensive MC cartridge and those are generally low to medium compliance.
Just upgraded my 1200GR to a1200G... Guess it's a good upgrade😃 Also waiting for my KAB TD1000 I initially ordered for my GR which will now be my first upgrade for the G...
Hi there, just to let you know... The KAB TD1000 arrived yesterday and for me it has a huge impact. The seperation of single instruments and voices improves alot but most of all the bass is so controlled now... Awesome... Didn't expect it to have such an impact. Btw I use an Audio Technica AT150MLX cartridge with a nagaoka magnesium headshell! Thanks alot for this tip even it didn't have the same positive effect for you!
Hi, I love sound from vinyl but I haven't and use CD. I'm very impressed with the sound of Japanese CDs UHQCD (Ultimate High Quality CD) + MQA because their sound is very similar to the sound of a vinyl record, very good vinyl record. Greetings from Poland!
Hi! Great to see you also still think this is one awesome Japanese masterful engineered machine :) My only mod I've done, is the interconnect cable. I'm even back to the original rubber mat. For most of my none audiophile records I prefer it. But the Teac Washi looks like some I should definitely try. Thanks for sharing the tip. Cheers. /Paul
Absolutely! Please let us know your feedback if you try! Hey everyone, check out Paul's channel he finds amazing vinyl records that you wouldn't even imagine they exist! Amazing recommendations! 👌
Hi Paul! Good to see you again! 😃 I also still use the Technics stock mat after trying various types of mats. I’m still considering the old 6mm Technics mat (twice as thick as the stock mat). The rubber provides excellent damping; it’s the same as the damping rubber at the back of the platter. Mostly because the additional 3mm are useful for some extra VTA headroom with low profile cartridges and high headshells like those from Ortofon.
Once you heard the all new Mcintosh MCD-12000 Tube CD Player with DAC your never want to go back to Vinyl again at any price ! 😇Audio Heaven..as close as Analog as it gets 😉
I have a KAB rewired tonearm, using cardas litz cable inside the arm. I feel like this is one of the few places where a cable can make a difference. According to Kevin at KAB, one of the biggest weaknesses of the stock arm, was just the cabling.
I recently picked up a Technics GR head shell with the tiny screw to adjust azimuth, and I’m underwhelmed; too easy to strip, and hard to loosen it up enough to where you can adjust it on the arm without it being floppy, and then trying to tighten it once you have it right changes the setting.
Actually, you are wrong on direct drive with the flywheel affect and servo of the 1100A on a test using Brüel & Kjær back in 1975 was vastly superior to the Linn LP-12 in every analog test as mine had a rumble of ..025 and weighted of -78 and unweighted of -59db. We did this at a Linn Dealer that though they would show the world it was wrong. The flywheel affect along with 3 dimensional balancing of the table itself proved in EVERY case from the SL 1350 to the SP10, they were all superior. Physics is left to those who understand it. By the end of the run of the SP-10mkIII it is actually better than the current reference system and had arm combinations that were beyond anything one can get today except perhaps Graham Engineering. The arm that was by far the best other than the SP-10 arms of later models (for god sake they had titanium nitride and boron arms with silver wiring and ruby bearings), were the SME 3009 II and III with no removable head shell and also was wired with silver wire. The tracking of the older cartridges of either MC or MM actually exceeds most every cartridge today. The older Ortofons were capable of tracking at 90-95 and frequency response that was not seen again for 20-30 years. The fools that took the platter off do not understand physics as the motor was absolutely dead on perfect and was used by cutter systems in every master since the early 70s and are still in demand.
Word. My $30 1988 Stanton 500s sounded just as good as these overpriced Ortofon Concorde things. Or maybe I was 20 years old and my hearing was better. Lol
@@jimovergaard1254 Excellent information! I have a 40 year old TECHNICS 1200SL MK2 and have 2 STANTON D60EE Cartridges and doubt I will ever upgrade as I"m 69years old,with 69 years old ears!!
good information. I measure about -90 db of rumble in my SP 10 and there is no way we can hear that through the music. Would love to se a MkIII. but I guess none were sold in my country. Saw one in Japan many years ago but was prised like a new car...No way the rumble is a problem in a sl1200, at least compared to the horrible Thorens 124 and Lenco's which are real rumble machines with that middle-wheel and can't understand why people pay crazy money for a 124.
@@ifixmycarmyself2502 I used to have an SP10mkII and while it was impressively quiet and super convenient to use, the motor control was intrusive - there was an unpleasant aspect to the sound in the upper mids that made everything a bit clinical, digital sounding almost. I think it's down to the governor checking the speed many times a second and making tiny adjustments. Been through a number of turntables since then. Now I have an extensively modified Garrard 301 ('50s design but 21st century engineering) but also a Technics 1200G. I love them both for different reasons - the difference in their sound is analogous to valve vs solid state. My heart loves the idler, my head prefers DD.
Generally good advice on the upgrades, some of which I have done ( mat, feet, isolation platform & headshell ) to my own recently bought Technics SL1200gr. However, 2 of the upgrades ( changing the tonearm & using an external power supply) I would only consider if I wanted to use an exotic, low compliance moving coil cartridge ( like a Koetsu or Kiseki )and would prefer to upgrade the turntable to the g version rather than use an external PSU due the fact the gr internal psu is a switch mode type, which produces no noise or vibration. Also cheaper direct drive ( from Hanpin ) are far better than you have indicated. I also use a Reloop rp7000 mk2 ( tweaked similarly to my gr ) which is nearly as capable as the sl1200. Lower end direct drive turntables, nowadays, can perform very well in domestic audio systems. After all they have been designed to operate, reliably, in the very hostile environment of dance clubs. Therefore, they're far more robust, vibration resistant and less fussy to maintain than most belt drives. They can be excellent value for money alternatives to the much lauded belt drive offerings from Pro-ject, Rega, etc.
They do not. The PLX-1000 is built for Pioneer by Hanpin. The majority of the non-Technics turntables that look like the 1200 are made by Hanpin in China or Taiwan. They're able to use the design because it's a fairly common design, and whatever patents Technics may have held are no longer active. But Technics would NEVER allow someone else's name to go on their gear, nor would their parent company, Panasonic.
I got my technics 1200gr and I notice that the antiskate is way off . I have my tracking force at 1.8 and when I sent the tracking force to the same I try to cue the tone arm to listen to a song and it moves towards the right is there a way to fix that
The Technics antiskate is far from precise. I discovered that with a test disc. Try playing with it and possibly use a test disc like that by hifi+ and don't set it to the corresponding tracking force as you have discovered that does not work.
Great vid. I’d like to add that KAB makes a very nice external PSU for around $250 USD, and as far as feet go, Isonoe also makes some great ones. As for mats, I personally like the Herbies or Funk Firm Achromat, which they make specifically for all the 1200 models. Thanks again for the excellent vid!
I have the Isonoe feet on my 1200G, it’s important that you buy the 25kg version, because the regular suspension version is not able to support the 18kg of the 1200G/GAE.
@@guerrillavinyl3178 Rich people? lol. Not quite, just very passionate about HiFi. I also don’t drive a fancy car, drink, eat at fancy restaurants, etc., etc. I just put my priorities in place, and my main hobby is HiFi, so I put my money into that. You can absolutely bet that I’d drive a nicer car, etc. if I were rich. All the best to you, guerilla vinyl! ✌️🎶🙂🔊
Interesting video, as most of yours usually are. I have a GR and the only thing I really changed, aside from the el-cheapo RCA's, is the mat and the headshell. But I do use the stock headshell for one of my carts. Got the LP Gear Zupreme headshell, it's kinda heavy, but I like it I guess. I changed the mat to an old school 6mm Technics mat, it's heavier and I think it sounds better. The other stuff, I think is ridiculous. The power cable? hell no. The one Technics supplied is super thick and I get no noise. The power supply? No, they redesigned it from the old ones. That company selling them is trying too hard to justify it. The feet? I get almost ZERO feedback or vibration of any kind. The whole point of the 1200 line is that they are soooo resistant to external vibrations. I might change out the arm for fun, as it's really the only "weak link" in the package. I recently Got a Rega RB250 and all the upgrades for it that I was going to put on an older 1200, but now I might just put it on the GR.
Little off topic but...If I was going to replace the GRs footers with gaia 3s...then put the table on a wood isolation platform(plinth)...what should go under the platform? Couple or decouple the platform to rack shelf(spikes/cones) or sorbathane)
A good isolation platform is a good idea. Decoupling is always better than damping in this case. Even though a true decoupling is very difficult to achieve with a simple platform, in most cases IMO it is more a combination of these.
@@killbasa2000 furman power strip, if you get any noise AFTER the strip into turntable you have some MASSIVE RF. Like a microwave running with the door open. Looking at that tiny room maybe he does!
just by chans I happen to discover that my phone, especially the apple 6 creates a terrible noise when it's to close to the power cord of the preamplifier. The apple 5 nothing and girlfriends apple neither just my apple 6. better shielding in the cable would be good, or better shielding of the phone. Others had same problem?
Good video as usual. Bought a new SL1200 and quite soon it developed a play in the arm bearings and was kind of unstable in the high adjustment of the arm. So, a greate improvement was to adjust the rattling tonarm bearings and fix the tone arm base, not adjustable any more. after some fiddling with that Sl1200 i later bought a SL1000 with SME arm for 150$ (1993)
I have purchased the TECHNICS SL-1200GR2PS (silver) with a NAGAOKA MP-150 CARTRIDGE and the sound is superb without doing any modifications. Although when compared to an AUDIO TECHNICA AT-LP120XBT-USB with the supplied cartridge on a ISO ACOUSTICS DELOS 2216W2 FLOATING ISLAND side by side with the same record on both turntables the TECHNICS far surpasses the AUDIO TECHNICA. The TECHNICS is perfect the way it is out of the box. The Record Centre here in Ottawa, Ont. Canada sold me the turntable and installed the cartridge. They recommended the NAGAOKA MP-150 for great sound. Chat again soon. Marc.
I’m tempted to pull the trigger on a sl1210 GAE 55th anniversary model. With precision sound labs psu, and many other mods. Trying to sell my mk3d which is tricked out with everything
Pretty proud w/my 850.00 1981 DUAL 1264. After purchasing 'platter matter..wow & flutter went non-existent. Still works/sounds great w/the ULM Tome Arm.
Great video, as always! Even though I have an SL1210 mk2, I found this very interesting. I'm also thinking about changing the RCA cables, and eventually the power cord, although first I need to get a soldering iron (and learn how to use it). I'll be watching your video on homemade high quality cables. But I do have a question, does the height of the feet affect the level of isolation? Is it "better" to have to feet, let's say all the way up, or all the way down in order to reduce the impact of vibration? Regards from Spain!
KAB has a host of upgrades you can do yourself if so inclined. The most labor intensive one is the tonearm cable upgrade, but KAB and others on TH-cam walk you through it. Definitely a labor of love.
Best upgrade is good music - I love Blue Note for making Tone Poet series and DG for Original Source Series and ECM for Luminessence series - bring them on before i buy a external power supply (i will tru the TEAC mat though)
I have the GR version and noticed that the rubber mat is about half as thin as the old technics 1200 mats. I went on eBay and bought an original (thicker) technics rubber mat. I actually like their rubber mats. 🤷🏻♂️
great video!..nice list of upgrades to consider. About 10 years ago I bought a near-mint (basically "unused") Technics SL2-J6 Direct Drive turntable and it's been fantastic. I've been using the Grado black (eliptical) cartridge. I know there are many better (obviously) but I prefer the "classic" vinyl sound as much as possible. However, I'm thinking a Shibata tip moving coil might be my next upgrade. BTW Thanks for the suggestion on that! I don't get much inner groove distortion (unless it's a heavy metal album I'm playing) but maybe the shibata tip will track better on the "squeezed" grooves. I believe the arm is low mass so one thing I like about the Grado is that it's medium mass suits the lightweight arm well. I guess I could even go high mass next time and that would be okay. Right now I'm at 9g total weight (arm + cartridge). One question I have...the (original) Technics manual that came with the player says the "Resonance Frequency" of the player is 12hz. I believe the ideal frequency is closer to 9-12hz, so I'm already on the higher end of the (suggested) range. What type of upgrades should I be cautious of that would not push the 12hz upward? Thanks again my friend, very nice video.
Thank you man! Well, it's always the trick of matching the cart compliance and the arm mass. If they arm is to stay, you must look for the best compliance when searching for a new cart. Here are some details if you haven't seen it: th-cam.com/video/T428mIuw9IQ/w-d-xo.html
Nothing new here; I had an original SL120 with an SME 3009 series ii detachable head shell complete with the original FD200 fluid damper and an ADC magnesium head shell. I used various cartridges; ADC XLM, Stanton 681EEE, Shure V15. Ortofon M20 FL. This was before moving coil cartridges became popular. This was over 40 years ago, what goes around comes around?
Personally I would change the arm as I did on my 12:10 if I wanted a serious upgrade. But I do not have this turntable but I want one whether I will change the arm after listening to it I will see.
So it’s a great turntable for $4000 as long as you replace the tonearm, head shell, plinth, feet, power supply, mat, and cables. Oh, and add a dampening kit.
@@anadialog Yea - not the same as “replace nearly everything on the turntable”. At that point, it’s no longer what you started with. Except when you try to resell it.
@@anadialogNow, I will say that I’ve done quite a few KAB upgrades to my 1982(?) mkii: tonearm wires and sleeve inside, ability to turn off the strobe light, new RCA cabling, silicone damping trough, external power supply, and newer cartridge, but this was on a 40+ year old machine that could’ve used the improvements to lessen the deficiencies realized over all that time. But it seems to me that to nearly double the expenditure on a semi-brand new unit (if you did all of those mods) means you weren’t majorly satisfied with what you just bought initially, and you could’ve put the combined money together and bought something that you really liked. Plus, after all of that money and time spent, you are not guaranteed that you’re going to like what you’ve left with, nor are you likely to recoup that money as an “upgraded” unit.
Exactly. I find it baffling that at 4K you should need to upgrade anything. If you wanted extreme audiophile stuff you wouldn’t be buying the is unit anyway. You’d be buying something for about £15K
The best upgrade for the technics SL1200 G, is no upgrade at all . The tone arm is as its meant to be , the feet are as technics envisaged, the mat is rubber as its meant to be, you may wonder how I know this , well I own one . I've changed the RCA leads and power cable , I've fitted a nagaoka mp 200 , I refuse to pay many hundreds of pounds on so called upgrades , if you keep upgrading you are no longer left with the 1200g, it's the law of diminishing returns , coupled up with the vagaries of the human ear and the ageing process. Its an excellently engineered work of art that instills emence pride of ownership, that just happens to play records very very well 😀👍.
Hi Peter, Your argument may be valid for you, but it is not the ‘i ching’ for everyone and the 'just as technics envisaged' argument is weak and doubly negated by your own admission that you have 'changed the RCA leads and power cable' and a counter argument to 'the law of diminishing returns' is, in for a penny, in for a pound. Technics is a business with accountants and sales people that come along with their great engineers and we are all individuals and therein is a spectrum of reasons to, or not to make changes. I've never bought a component of this price without trying different power cables and IC's to tweak the gear to my personal taste, given a particular environment. In fact it strikes me that most people venturing as far as this price point are making a statement about the importance of audio in their lives that implies a high likelihood they are likely to take further steps. Furthermore the fact that there's such an industry of upgrades for this deck makes it doubly clear that for a person like me this deck is an excellent starting point. I wouldn’t want to change the look, but others might, just s you would stay with a vanilla version. I wish that money was no object so that I could immediately buy an upgraded external power supply, ultimate ICs and power cable and a ridiculously priced cart, but then again I wish I had the budget to go to the very top of the technics tree and do that too... As it is I'll have to live with my rather excellent idler-drive PTP6 Lenco75 with Rega RB3000 tonearm and Nagaoka MP500 that I built myself over several years recycling my ancient L75, but I so want a second deck and one day I will also have a cool modded SL1200G too, ...oh yes! ;-)
I confess I agree with you less than a 3rd of the time but still your channel is so valuable to learn about new things, regarding mats I wanted to bury my head in the sand for buying and Achromat (around £70) to my humble belt driven set up. I actually bought it because I hated the appearance of cork so not believing at all in all the so call benefits and ok, it was not miracle but static wen down and music bass gain a lot of control, it lifted my set up. That is a funkfirm product and they make a version for the Sl1200, did you try that one? Btw thanks for the Washi tip. I do not need it now but I get the reason why it should work.
Thanks for this video, I think it's the best so far and I like the intro! I have the GR to which I have added some upgrades, in particular the perfect interface from Stein music. I found that it was even better by keeping the original mat underneath, the sound seems warmer to me. Other upgrade, the Delos from isoacoustics is not bad too!
Two years ago I had the chance to try and compare the Stein mat on my Roksan Xerxes 20+ and happily use it since then. It just sounds musically "right". The price for this flimsy piece of equipment might be insane but Holger Stein has done an impressive job by developing this mat@@anadialog
I put my in top of a pillow... It Works ... The only problem looks TAKY. Also I put news feet under the subwoofer ; You don’t feel it , but I hear the base .
Technics have just released the 1200 GR2 which tackles your first upgrade, they put a power supply from their flagship hi-fi system AND ontop of that it has Noise Cancelling apparently???
its funny im looking at the 1200 spinning behind him and i can clearly see platter wobble on the edges of that thing turning from here....at that distance, through youtube....hmmmm
Unfortunately several Technics suffered from this. I have seen videos where this was very noticeable. I think mine did suffer a bit of this. In any case now it’s gone.
Hi there, I just bought SL1200G, please tell me, because it is little far on this moive - the dots on edges of plate are totaly equal on every side of plate? When you look at it do not You fell they are waving a little?
They are and they must be equal to check speed...unfortunately some people claim that the platter wobbles. Mine did a tiny little bit, I have seen video of serious wobble...unfortunately this is a true issue...
@@anadialog th-cam.com/video/0pVwKOmSycE/w-d-xo.html Above is link to short movie. Hope in my case it is not a problem. I've seen a lot 1200G TH-cam movies and they mostly little waving... I think silver straps above dots, and under dots are not 100% same wide all around the plate and it makes visuality of little waving. Sincerely in this price plates should be perfect. For sure it is beter made in my SL1100 mae in 1973. What do You think about mine, should I be worried?
Hi i have a 1200 mk 2 since 1989, just used for listening and serviced twice, and it’s still amazing. Just out of curiosity, are you italian? Best regards from Italy anyway, love your vids. Giova
Many years ago I learned that a turntable is actualy a musical instrument and needs to be properly tuned. Each table must be tuned differently over time by adding and taking away different tweaks..
I just bought the 1200g and I'm having an issue balancing the tonearm and getting the correct tracking force I am using a ortofon blue ortofon headshell I'm not using the aux weight , when I balance the tone arm and set I set the I set the dial to zero on the counter weight then adjust to 1.8 for xorrect counter forcer weight when I check with scale I am 1.4 tracking force instead of 1.8 what can it be please help
Hi thanks for another great video, I have an 1210GAE, with the Nagaoka JT-1210 cartridge, and I love it! This cartridge that was specifically tuned by a joint team of engineers from Technics and Nagaoka. Have you had the oportunity to listen to it, what do you think about it?
Thank you for the review of possible upgrades. I like the Funk Firm package they put for Technics SL1200 series (absorbing feet, absorbing rug, houdini cartridge add on). But the weakness of the turntable seems to be the tonearm. The tonearm you recommend for upgrade no longer exists. In fact, it is a struggle to find a tonearm of good quality with a removable headshell. Why is that? There would be a niche market there with significant profits. Technics SL 1200 is by far the most sold turntable. Would you have any tonearm suggestions for 2022-2023?
Hi, maybe you can help me, I bought an 1210GR in United States, I took the turntable to my country where we have 220v, the label in the back reads 120v, but in the page I can see they are multi voltage, do you know if I can plug my GR directly to 220v without using a step down transformer? Thanks in advance
While I trust the engineers that designed this turntable, the ability to upgrade or modify this turntable is fun. Go to town and modulate all you want. Or don’t. It’s a hobby not a cult.
The mat that is advised here doesn't seem to have an indentation (lower part) at the center where the label of the LP resides. So the LP more or less floats in an instable manner above the mat, only making contact with the mat via the label. How can that be a good thing?! I use the Funk Firm Achromat which has such an indentation for the label; I like the relaxation of the sound it provides (Turntable VPI Scoutmaster Signature).
I have the acromat. Good but not the best for the Technics. The mat is so thin that it doesn't influence the label. With a standard clamp you can be sound in that if it concerns you.
Indeed, adding noise. Don't take my word for it. Here is a scientific article that should help: www.dropbox.com/s/sgd9bszsbkqvp6a/Capacitors_for_Reduced_Microphonics_and_Sound_Emis.pdf?dl=0 I made a dedicated video on the subject. Check also the other docs in the video description: th-cam.com/video/UYMbi7v2pNU/w-d-xo.html
I'm hoping to pick up a Japanese-built GR before the stock runs out. I just found out that Technics has shifted manufacturing from Japan to Malaysia as of this past April, and while quality control is obviously not going to drop to Hanpin levels, it's still not going to be quite the same as the Japanese models.
The Malaysian company has no other choice than to follow the patents and the blue engineering drawings by Technics, so you don't need to worry about the quality. Thank god it's not China.
By the way.... I have just found this statement, it's from Panasonic and was sent to Technics dealers, so we shouldn't worry: Greetings Technics Dealers, I’d like to express our appreciation for your strong support and contribution to the continuing sales of Technics products. This notice is to inform you that Panasonic has decided to relocate the production of Technics products currently manufactured in Utsunomiya, Japan, to our Malaysia production facilities effective April 1, 2021. This move will strengthen our logistics management by concentrating all our production resources to one facility while strengthening our competitive edge. The models involved are as follows: SL-1200GR/SL-1210GR/SL-1200G/SP-10R/SL-1000R This change will enhance our Technics production and engineering. This process incorporates the most up-to-date technology standards and state-of-the-art mechanical manufacturing, which will ensure that the renowned Technics attention to detail will remain unchanged resulting in product quality that satisfies our most discriminating critics. As you may recall, our Malaysia factory has been manufacturing other fine products like the SC-C70MK2/SC-C30/SC-C50/SL-1200MK7/SL-1500C/SU-G700/SL-G700 and the new SU-R1000. While we have paid due diligence to deliver as much product as possible from the Utsunomiya factory, the earliest arrivals from the new Malaysia factory will likely be end of May to mid-June. Please bear with us through the transition. The sales team will continue to provide details on your existing order fulfillment as they are informed.
I will take my 4 MIJ older tables and new MIJ GR any day over any location Technics decides to make tables. MIJ Technics resale will be much better than MI-X. Personally I would prefer an MIJ than an MI-X any day of the week.
Last year, I bought one of the last 1200GR turntables made in Japan. I specifically want one made in Japan because I was also concerned about quality control for Malaysian units. I could not find one in the U.S., but was able locate one in the UK.
Nice Video a few items are questionable upgrade from an already almost perfect turntable at $3900. However people like to tweak and improve anything if they can. Hence Automobiles as an example. I am considering this turntable or a VPI Prime. Not sure which would provide the best sound and utility. I am thinking the Technics being it is so well engineered for plug an play.
Thank you for this video. I just ordered a new SL1210-GR not the top of the line like yours but is still a very good TT. I am going to do some of the upgrades you mentioned like good RCA output cables, better power cord for sure as a start. However I need to consider cartridges and phono Pre-s do you you have a video on these? Or recommendations. I was considering either a Whest Two.2 or a Sutherland 20/20 per phono stage and a Hana ML cartridge. Thoughts?
The Hana ML is an extraordinary cartridge for the money. I've lost count of the number of MC carts I've used but I've had at least a dozen that cost more than the Hana but none that were better. I've also got their Umami Red which is better again but not by much. The ML is the standout value in the range. Funnily enough I've also had Whest and Sutherland phono stages, not those models though. Mate of mine has a Limetree which, if you ditch the wall wart PSU in favour of a linear one, is very good indeed - far better than you'd expect for £800.
@@anadialog Well I went with the Whest two.2 and a AT 740ML MM cartridge. There were mixed reviews on which is better and the consensus was both are great. I saved more cash on the Whest and being this was my first cart and pre gave it a shot. So far no regrets.
Thanks for the tips, especially the tone arm assist block for buffering the tone arm, what a great idea and I'd never heard of that material for a turntable mat, will try the Washi mat for sure. Currently I use a cork mat on my old Technics SL1700 turntable and it made a vast difference over felt(the biggest impact being you don't get fibers coming off onto your vinyl records.) I'm thinking of upgrading to the SL1200 GR model(the G model looks amazing but it's $7000 versus $2750 and is there really that much of a difference for that extra $4250?? Fellow Audiophiles, please let me know what it gives you thmat the standard already high quality model doesn't. It's already a step above the SL1210 MK 7(which is more of a DJ specific model and features options which to be honest just looked like they would add more noise than anything else for the audiophile) and 2 steps above the entry level SL1500C model, so I'm leaning towards it. It represents great value without going into the too much money or dare I say it 'rich and shameless' category but hey if it gets the sound improvements that give you joy, then it's worth it right? I'd also argue that unless your going to get a very expensive phono pre-amp, is the SL1200 G really going to be worth it? Please do enlighten me fellow fans, as there has to be some amazing benefits to be had for that extra money. (You can almost purchase three SL1200GR turntables for the cost of the G model.)
Good video. I’m about to fit a Funk FX3 to mine, just waiting for an arm board. I borrowed a 1200G with FX3 first with an AT Art1000 on it, absolutely stunning. I also compared it to an SMEV and it easily beat it for way under half the price. The carbon fibre cross in the tube seems to me a game changer. I had the KAB 1000 on the standard arm and would recommend it. I also installed the Timestep power supply. The pic you showed is the old one, the new one has a switch in the front. I made recordings before and after, it does make a significant difference. I’m using a 5mm Achromat on mine. Big improvement over rubber. While I use the Gaia under my Martin Logan CLX Arts, I think they have too much damping for the turntable. Their platform or a Townshend Seismic Sink or more cheaply and just as effective, the Funk Boings. I have all three in different places in my systems! I made my own silver shielded litz interconnect, better than anything else I have tried from VDH QED or Neotech. I tried AT Art9 but its not a good match for the arm 6.5Hz resonant frequency, sounded very bright even with extreme VTA!
Just need to check the website better. Right here, under accessories: eu.teac-audio.com/en-GLOBAL/audio-hifi/turntables/turntables/turntable-accessories/ta-ts30un/p/156681
What power cable would you recommend? I have the GR and I don't have a large budget to spend on the cable. Would rather save up to get the 1200G. Thanks for you advice. Terry
Nothing fancy, really! Just a well shielded powercord. This 20$ ine seems perfect: qrco.de/bbWtAZ Better invest mainly on the interconnects! Or, I forgot to mention in the video, the cartrdige leads.
Regarding arms ; SME have stopped supplying arms on their own (you can only get them on SME turntables), Another alternative arm choice used to be the Jelco Arms however Jelco closed their business in early May 2020 so choices are really quite limited. Timestep do have a list of options on their website for SL upgrades that may be food for thought. I have the ISONOE feet, Oyaide mat and the PSU upgrade. However I really wanted the tonearm upgrade...still waiting for the right moment. Oh and a good Phono preamp also helps.... (apologies if any of this has already been covered)
If get this topic right, major enhancements are about stopping feedback, right? I have that problem, too. Two things: 1.preamp has to be nearest possible to tonarm. Why it is not, that is twilight zone. 2. Have you ever consider about electronicaly removing feedback? It exist, why it is not implemented, also belongs to twilight zone.
I like the way the 1500C looks but not the other models. Since HS in the late 70’s always have had a great aversion to disco. A 1500C with a funk firm black mat that looks stock and locking interconnects with isonoe feet and I think I have all the turntable I need…and I love it’s build and looks which is a big deal for me. I have it and my system on a 1951 brick and mortar fireplace hearth… no more wood fires but it makes for a robust support. We have a gas fireplace in the main living room that can heat much of the house. Great channel and regards from Bakersfield!
![ANA[DIA]LOG](http://yt3.ggpht.com/K0qr1ndqDdGUyxbMUYesdA0KM3wZ-_upZ4bvQR8Vi_Ie1773eXoIXY2VblfzWYRJnwxd5pVrbXw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
Having gone through many of these similar upgrades on my GR, I found myself questioning whether many were worth it. The stock headshell is superb and one of the lightest available, great for those mid to higher compliance carts. The KAB damper gave me mixed results. I only found it beneficial for carts whose compliance was too high for my arm, mostly vintage ones. For everything else the damper softened the sound too much, especially with my Hana SL and ML. You can spend thousands on upgrades and perhaps you will hear a tiny difference or perhaps, like me, you will have to try and convince yourself it was worth it. In the end, I returned my GR to mostly stock and sold most of the aftermarkets. The only ones I kept were a Herbies mat, damper for my high comp carts, and higher quality interconnects. I would definitely recommend spending money on a better cartridge or better phono stage before going down the rabbit hole of aftermarkets and diminishing returns.
I agree entirely. My experience with similar upgrades (on the 1200G) is that in some cases there were extremely subtle and barley audible changes -- and in most cases not better, not worse. This applies to the KAB tonearm damper and an external power supply (a tried and tested linear low-noise design that I diy'd myself).
I've had a little more success with diy interconnects and tonearm wire. Biggest changes have been though trying cartridges and phono preamps, and getting a record cleaner (washer/vacuum type).
I would say, however, that the biggest change in my enjoyment of the turntable has been in buying more vinyl! For the price of the KAB damper and an off-the-shelf external PSU, you can get nearly 40 high quality new vinyl records.
well said.....
I installed the KAB fluid damper mod and was completely blown away by a much much improved stereo image, it was a huge upgrade!!
As was the Achromat
And the stupidly expensive pure magnesium Jelco headshell.
thanks for the tips, appreciated
entirely agree. First , KAB Kevin Barrett is the best resource ..and Technics honestly should pay the guy and hire him as a consultant. All these upgrades may make 1 millionth of a difference. Put them up to blind tests. Won't hold out. The Gimbal arm is fine. I have the SL 1000 RES, the SL 1200 Gold, the 1200 M5G and many earlier ones. The tonearm dampening didn't make a huge acoustic difference to ME but YMMC. it became a dewey mess. the TT is awesome. Allows for quick changeouts of cartridges...which is fun within minutes. And I have had 3 VPI"s, Regas, Music Halls etc. The Technics rocks.
The only upgrade I've made to my GR is the addition of the Little Fwend tonearm lifter. Lovely little thing. No longer have to rush over at the end of every album.
WOW! Didn't know something like this existed! Do you use their "Disco" fwend (weird name though) and how is it shaping up?
@@sids2012 yeah, I believe that's the 1200 version. I love it. A bit fiddly to set up but it's so smooth and gentle. Just a gentle press down to reset it after each side is all you need to do once you get it dialed in. A bit pricey but it's extremely well made (all machined parts) and reliable. Vinyl Attack has a video on it, go check it out.
Just installed their “Disco” for Technics version and yea it works great! Recently bought a GR but was tempted by the 1500c mainly due to auto-return feature. Now I’m appreciating the better turntable and no worries more relaxing approach to listening with this brilliant addition. I really had to search hard to find an online retailer who still had this specific Disco model in stock. Seems it’s increasingly difficult to find. Shame as it’s the single biggest simple upgrade so far 👍
I agree. This is actually bullshit. Many people love Technics but are contradicting themselves peddling bullshit. He said this was "astounding" then he compared it to inferior direct drive turn tables. So he's saying the technics is "astounding" but he starts comparing inferior models. Then he wants you to buy add ons for '"inferior' models " and apply it to his astounding TT. Later in the video the Technics is " excellent". Then he compares Michael Fremerss 20k TT and he doesn't get the price right. I wonder if this guy is high? Then he talks about "noise". Upgrade your power cord. Any engineer knows that the power cord is like snake oil. Michael Fremer if he watched his recent video, upgraded his whole god damn house ground. House ground, that's it....so you're going to pay for a power cord maybe spend 500 bucks but your AC supply to the circuit breaker board is shit? really?
KAB Electro Acoustics is a nice place to get Technics parts. I have had good service from them.
Buying Technics parts directly from Panasonic Encompass parts on line has worked well for me.
I like my Funk Firm mat on my sl1200mK5
Great video!
Did buy the Washi Teac Mat, fantastic on the Platter of Technics SL 1500c. Better than the Linn-Mat or a Carbon-Mat. Thanks for the good Infos.
Truly enjoyed this video.
Thank you for mentioning our EPS in your video. We would like to point some things out: our EPS is the worldwide only linear PSU with internal current regulation pcb, made by us to exact design as original SMPS pcb mounted on the GAE/G/Gr. All the direct drive decks suffer if current regulation board is located far from the motor, as they need instant power by request, something you cannot achieve with a normal (and cheaper) external circuit.
Original SMPS (switching) power supply is clearly audible if you use an external pre-phono (a lot worse if you use a hi-gain step up for MC carts), so we think that the first step in upgrading a near perfect gear as the GAE/G is to eradicate the noise, then you can go to improve the other parts. BTW original tonearm is a piece of art and absolutely stunning in performance, opposite to the cheap RCA cables supplied with the deck.
Best,
Precision Sound Lab
Thank you for giving us extra information.
Awesome turntable. My dream. I have only the sl1500c,
And most probably couldn't tell a difference in a blind test. Seriously.
No Idea why it took me so long to find your channel, but excellent job! I've been drooling over the 1200G for a while now. It's rare to see that level of engineering go into a modern table of that price.
Hi there! Thanks! I've seen also some of your videos and they were excellent, in particular I remember the one on high fidelity classical music labels. Great info!
You can only really do it if you've got a parent company like Panasonic behind you. I think I read that the 1200G and the 1000G are prestige, low volume products that they don't really make much money on but they enhance the brand.
I think you may be right...and I like both your alternatives. Use the remaining money for a super cart and/or phono stage!
Top tip. Clean the contacts in the head shell with switch cleaner. It's a simple thing but I am sure you will notice the difference. Your audio chain is only as good as the weekest link.
I agree, I use the deoxit series in all contacts and cables: th-cam.com/video/nPRmEa2PB1U/w-d-xo.html
i changed the 1200g to my mt 2 mcintosh who had a humming problem,,this technics is awesome
Nicely done on the intro! The sound and video effects were cool, your best yet! Keep up the great work!
I'm a first run, made in Japan GR owner. The TT is mated to a Denon DL-110 cart. Just plug it in and enjoy! Get over it!
That is how you enjoy it and this is how I enjoy it, making it better and more precisely illustrating to others how this can be done. Why your point of view should be better? Moreover, why watch if you are already happy? ;-)
Hello from Germany and thank you for your efforts. I got the SL 1210 G in black for my second hand records and for my daughter and her lps as an entry to good analog playback. The washi mat is really good and looks very nice. Pick up is a Ortofon Concorde Club 2 and what can I say - this setup is really good - even in comparison to a legend like the the Sony PSX 9 with original cartridge.
Nice! Thanks for sharing that.
You got $4000 turntable for second hand records...
@@danender5555 😂 Yes Sir, I am a real snob 😉 In fact I bought it second hand, being a steal for the money. I need it also for archive purposes and swapping a cartridge is done in minutes. I got about 6500 records, so there is some work to do. Happy listening🙂
@@stefanhooss2822 Well, to taint a $4000 turntable with $200 cartridge is not very snobbish... But for second hand records the consumable cartridge may play well, especially when your daughter use it too...
However, you forgot to mention, what is your primary turntable for your mint shaped records? Let me guess...
Continuum Caliburn
@@danender5555 🙃Certainly not a Caliburn - for this amount of money I would rather buy a good italian violin or one or two good french violin bows😉The cleaned or mint records are played on a TW Acustic Raven GT with original TW Acustic Raven 10.5 arm and a Dynavector XX MK 2 cartridge.
I am not rich - I was a teacher and am now retired - but I like high fidelity and music. Having no expensive car, don't smoking and drinking and not divorced - I could save some money ...😊
1200MKII - for "beginner audiophile" - been using several since 1990 - not a beginner, work in professional field , nothing comes close. Use slightly modded models for professional archival service, Vinyl to digital remasters, and my stripped down ones for turntablism and DJ service/ studio work . It's the most versatile and durable turntable out there. Fremer's fancy $25,000 Turntable.. it's pretty and functional but the buyer is paying for the R&D that's why it's so expensive and there are no improvements, especially if you isolate/tweak your 1200 properly. That's another topic as well as proper use of Cartridge / Stylus combos and the basic overhaul of copper cable inside and in headshell / output. Thanks for the video about upgrading the modern 1200 series.
No improvements needed , correct .
1200 Mk2 the only maintenance needed is a bit of lube for the flywheel after decades of use .
That intro was pretty cool. Good video.
I'm surprised Technics doesn't make a newer suspended platter/ tone arm design like they had back in the 70s and early 80s. I have a Technics SL1800 mk2 that was based on the 1200 but had a full dampened suspension. You can jump up and down, or knock on the plinth and will never hear any thumps. Its a great design.
True!
IMHO if you buy a turntable (any turntable) then spend a fortune on upgrades or improvements, then you've bought the wrong turntable in the first place.
Agreed
Not necessarily. Maybe its just that your budget wasn't sufficient to get the sound you were really after. Nothing wrong with trying upgrades to incrementally improve the sound.
Nostalgia costs. 😂
I have replaced the 2 technics 1200 mk2 that I got rid of in my youth. I read/heard the new ones weren’t as good so I bought and rebuilt 2. Great Learning. Proud of myself for accomplishing tear down and rebuilding. This fix can be passed down as I’m getting my 6 year old grandson into listening to records. We may need to change some electronics in the future but that too is replaceable.
I agree to a point. Rather than dump money into a 1210MK2, I sold it for 500 and bought a 1210GR2. Done!
I have the same TT in black 1210G.I'm using MNPCTEC height adjustment feet in silver with sorbothane isolation. There one lb a peice. I love the way thet look. Alsoim considering using a Ikea chopping board for a plinth.
Better an isolation platform. Even the moderately priced Zazen is a good solution. Here is a video with three different budgets I made: th-cam.com/video/v3r5ubI3Tgo/w-d-xo.html
I have a SL-1200 MK III, with a SME series III tonearm, this also includes the fluid damper, and wires replacement.
It uses Isonoe black isolation feet,. Replaced all the lights with LED’s. Added hinges for the dust cover and last one uses a better cartridge a moving coil one from Hana the SL Series. Everything, but the cartridge was sourced from eBay. Total cost including turntable and cartridge was $2,350 USD
Next step will be an external power supply, but maybe I will go with a good power cable.
Fluid damper came optional first in the SME Series iii, then it was standard.
This SL-1200 sounds really good, as good as my Series 20 (Pioneer) with a SME Series III and a Dynavector 20X2, I purchased this turntable back in 1980, but the cartridge I purchased it last year substituting a Dynavector 17D.
externalising the power supply is more valuable than a power cable. Personally I wouldn't want to have a separate power supply as it would make playing out a pain in the ass as a DJ. But I do want to at least get the strobe disablers and DC regulators from Kabusa.
What great timing for this video to be posted. I just upgraded my headshell to the Orsonic AV-101s as recommended on a previous video. But I broke a rule and changed the headshell, leads, and cartridge at the same time! Definite improvement, but what gave the most improvement I won’t know. I still found I had some albums that didn’t sound as good as I know they should be low bass edgy highs. I played with VTA and could get one album to sound better but then the next would require tweaking. I also thought about tone arm vibrations and tried to think of low cost quick solution. I came up with putting 10 small dental rubber bands on the arm in a staggered distance; spaced far apart towards the base and bunched closer as you get to the headshell. The thought here is to break up the nodes of the vibration. Did not make any calculations for this just visually spaced. This is a-bit ugly, But, resulting sound is more important then good looks, to me!This made a significant difference in the sound it brought down the edgy highs and gave me the bass I was expecting. It may have dulled the vocals (still testing it out). Between this test and your video I’m a believer in needing to address vibrations in the turntable and the arm !! Question, before this I was thinking about the isoacoustics for my speaker. I would need the 2 sets of the Gaia II. Vs purchasing an island for the turntable. What would you recommend doing first, speakers or turntable?
Cool tweak! I would start with the speakers.
Brilliant video!
I tried an oelback power supply and i have to say it is amazing i could even go as far as saying it is the most important thing along with the cartridge and Wood math.
Technics SL
1200 mk 4 is My favourite Model along with the gr g and 1000 ofc its the best.
Thanks for sharing your experience! A lot of people are skeptical about tye power supply and your first hand experience is precious!
ANA[DIA]LOG thx for replying so soon! I admire your knowledge on TT-maths and resonance.
I will look into the 30 dollar version For My new at2lpx since it has a felt math
The best upgrade I performed on my SL-1200 MK2 was replacing the stock tonearm for a Jelco TK-850S. Night & day difference. Unfortunately Jelco as a company closed and stopped manufacturing due to the pandemic.
What changed to the better? Less vibrations picked up by the cart/arm? And, are you still able to adjust VTA on the fly with the regular VTA ring with the Jelco? It's slightly heavier than the stock Technics arm so I guess it rules out some very high compliance carts. But then again, if you swap tonearms one tables you're most likely to use an expensive MC cartridge and those are generally low to medium compliance.
@@felixfranzen7578No idea if the Jelco can do that, but why would you want to adjust VTA on the fly?
Just upgraded my 1200GR to a1200G... Guess it's a good upgrade😃 Also waiting for my KAB TD1000 I initially ordered for my GR which will now be my first upgrade for the G...
Congrats!! Give us some feedback! For me the KAB was a medium impact upgrade but for others a high one...
@@anadialog the G is now in use... I'm shocked how much better it is above the GR.... The KAB TD1000 is not here yet... Will report!
👍
Hi there, just to let you know... The KAB TD1000 arrived yesterday and for me it has a huge impact. The seperation of single instruments and voices improves alot but most of all the bass is so controlled now... Awesome... Didn't expect it to have such an impact. Btw I use an Audio Technica AT150MLX cartridge with a nagaoka magnesium headshell! Thanks alot for this tip even it didn't have the same positive effect for you!
@@dennisdreler4057 cool! Good to know and thanks for the feedback.
Hi, I love sound from vinyl but I haven't and use CD.
I'm very impressed with the sound of Japanese CDs UHQCD (Ultimate High Quality CD) + MQA
because their sound is very similar to the sound of a vinyl record, very good vinyl record.
Greetings from Poland!
I think MQA is a scam. But just from reading about it.
Hi! Great to see you also still think this is one awesome Japanese masterful engineered machine :) My only mod I've done, is the interconnect cable. I'm even back to the original rubber mat. For most of my none audiophile records I prefer it. But the Teac Washi looks like some I should definitely try. Thanks for sharing the tip. Cheers. /Paul
Absolutely! Please let us know your feedback if you try!
Hey everyone, check out Paul's channel he finds amazing vinyl records that you wouldn't even imagine they exist! Amazing recommendations! 👌
@@anadialog Thanks for the shout out! For sure am curious to the possibilities the Washi gives.
Hi Paul! Good to see you again! 😃
I also still use the Technics stock mat after trying various types of mats.
I’m still considering the old 6mm Technics mat (twice as thick as the stock mat). The rubber provides excellent damping; it’s the same as the damping rubber at the back of the platter.
Mostly because the additional 3mm are useful for some extra VTA headroom with low profile cartridges and high headshells like those from Ortofon.
Once you heard the all new Mcintosh MCD-12000 Tube CD Player with DAC your never want to go back to Vinyl again at any price ! 😇Audio Heaven..as close as Analog as it gets 😉
The Funk Carbon component mate on my Dual 1229 is marvelous
I have a KAB rewired tonearm, using cardas litz cable inside the arm. I feel like this is one of the few places where a cable can make a difference. According to Kevin at KAB, one of the biggest weaknesses of the stock arm, was just the cabling.
I agree, especially if we are talking direct cable!
Thanks for the recommendations!
I recently picked up a Technics GR head shell with the tiny screw to adjust azimuth, and I’m underwhelmed; too easy to strip, and hard to loosen it up enough to where you can adjust it on the arm without it being floppy, and then trying to tighten it once you have it right changes the setting.
I'm using a amethyst rock mated liège at the corner of the tonearm.
I like the idea.
Thanx for your time !! Very interesting clip ...Subscribed 😊
Thank YOU!
Stein music are the ones,that brought you the blue sun :) it must be great
Great info ....Have safe and great weekend
I just bought SL1200GR and am planning to join ANALOG group, thank you for your suggestion.
Welcome!!
Congratz on the best TT available in This pricegroup IMO.
Actually, you are wrong on direct drive with the flywheel affect and servo of the 1100A on a test using Brüel & Kjær back in 1975 was vastly superior to the Linn LP-12 in every analog test as mine had a rumble of ..025 and weighted of -78 and unweighted of -59db. We did this at a Linn Dealer that though they would show the world it was wrong. The flywheel affect along with 3 dimensional balancing of the table itself proved in EVERY case from the SL 1350 to the SP10, they were all superior. Physics is left to those who understand it. By the end of the run of the SP-10mkIII it is actually better than the current reference system and had arm combinations that were beyond anything one can get today except perhaps Graham Engineering. The arm that was by far the best other than the SP-10 arms of later models (for god sake they had titanium nitride and boron arms with silver wiring and ruby bearings), were the SME 3009 II and III with no removable head shell and also was wired with silver wire. The tracking of the older cartridges of either MC or MM actually exceeds most every cartridge today. The older Ortofons were capable of tracking at 90-95 and frequency response that was not seen again for 20-30 years. The fools that took the platter off do not understand physics as the motor was absolutely dead on perfect and was used by cutter systems in every master since the early 70s and are still in demand.
Word. My $30 1988 Stanton 500s sounded just as good as these overpriced Ortofon Concorde things. Or maybe I was 20 years old and my hearing was better. Lol
@@jimovergaard1254 Excellent information! I have a 40 year old TECHNICS 1200SL MK2 and have 2 STANTON D60EE Cartridges and doubt I will ever upgrade as I"m 69years old,with 69 years old ears!!
Agreed . The noise and rumble argument is rubbish. Iv had belt drive and direct drive and I'm direct drive all the way
good information. I measure about -90 db of rumble in my SP 10 and there is no way we can hear that through the music. Would love to se a MkIII. but I guess none were sold in my country. Saw one in Japan many years ago but was prised like a new car...No way the rumble is a problem in a sl1200, at least compared to the horrible Thorens 124 and Lenco's which are real rumble machines with that middle-wheel and can't understand why people pay crazy money for a 124.
@@ifixmycarmyself2502 I used to have an SP10mkII and while it was impressively quiet and super convenient to use, the motor control was intrusive - there was an unpleasant aspect to the sound in the upper mids that made everything a bit clinical, digital sounding almost. I think it's down to the governor checking the speed many times a second and making tiny adjustments.
Been through a number of turntables since then. Now I have an extensively modified Garrard 301 ('50s design but 21st century engineering) but also a Technics 1200G. I love them both for different reasons - the difference in their sound is analogous to valve vs solid state. My heart loves the idler, my head prefers DD.
Generally good advice on the upgrades, some of which I have done ( mat, feet, isolation platform & headshell ) to my own recently bought Technics SL1200gr. However, 2 of the upgrades ( changing the tonearm & using an external power supply) I would only consider if I wanted to use an exotic, low compliance moving coil cartridge ( like a Koetsu or Kiseki )and would prefer to upgrade the turntable to the g version rather than use an external PSU due the fact the gr internal psu is a switch mode type, which produces no noise or vibration. Also cheaper direct drive ( from Hanpin ) are far better than you have indicated. I also use a Reloop rp7000 mk2 ( tweaked similarly to my gr ) which is nearly as capable as the sl1200. Lower end direct drive turntables, nowadays, can perform very well in domestic audio systems. After all they have been designed to operate, reliably, in the very hostile environment of dance clubs. Therefore, they're far more robust, vibration resistant and less fussy to maintain than most belt drives. They can be excellent value for money alternatives to the much lauded belt drive offerings from Pro-ject, Rega, etc.
Reloop 7000 mk2 excellent looking deck , I wouldn't say no to one .
@@peterstudley1804 Also excellent sounding. Even though its price has risen to almost twice the price I paid, it is still excellent value for money.
Question, do technics build the new pioneer PLX-1000 turntable for Pioneer, cause man do it look like the technics turntable
They do not. The PLX-1000 is built for Pioneer by Hanpin. The majority of the non-Technics turntables that look like the 1200 are made by Hanpin in China or Taiwan. They're able to use the design because it's a fairly common design, and whatever patents Technics may have held are no longer active. But Technics would NEVER allow someone else's name to go on their gear, nor would their parent company, Panasonic.
No technics don't make the plx 1000 , it's a super OEM hanpin motor all far east manufactured.
I got my technics 1200gr and I notice that the antiskate is way off . I have my tracking force at 1.8 and when I sent the tracking force to the same I try to cue the tone arm to listen to a song and it moves towards the right is there a way to fix that
The Technics antiskate is far from precise. I discovered that with a test disc. Try playing with it and possibly use a test disc like that by hifi+ and don't set it to the corresponding tracking force as you have discovered that does not work.
@@anadialog
Thanks you my friend I set it to 1 instead of 1.8 and it stays at its place, I will buy a test disc
Great vid. I’d like to add that KAB makes a very nice external PSU for around $250 USD, and as far as feet go, Isonoe also makes some great ones. As for mats, I personally like the Herbies or Funk Firm Achromat, which they make specifically for all the 1200 models.
Thanks again for the excellent vid!
I have the Isonoe feet on my 1200G, it’s important that you buy the 25kg version, because the regular suspension version is not able to support the 18kg of the 1200G/GAE.
Thanks for adding these other solutions!
Rich people are funny. Buy a $4,000 turntable and then feel the need to "upgrade" it.
@@guerrillavinyl3178
Rich people? lol. Not quite, just very passionate about HiFi. I also don’t drive a fancy car, drink, eat at fancy restaurants, etc., etc. I just put my priorities in place, and my main hobby is HiFi, so I put my money into that. You can absolutely bet that I’d drive a nicer car, etc. if I were rich. All the best to you, guerilla vinyl! ✌️🎶🙂🔊
@@guerrillavinyl3178 i know you were referring to the SL1200G, but you can also get the SL1200GR for $1,700.
Interesting video, as most of yours usually are. I have a GR and the only thing I really changed, aside from the el-cheapo RCA's, is the mat and the headshell. But I do use the stock headshell for one of my carts. Got the LP Gear Zupreme headshell, it's kinda heavy, but I like it I guess. I changed the mat to an old school 6mm Technics mat, it's heavier and I think it sounds better. The other stuff, I think is ridiculous. The power cable? hell no. The one Technics supplied is super thick and I get no noise. The power supply? No, they redesigned it from the old ones. That company selling them is trying too hard to justify it. The feet? I get almost ZERO feedback or vibration of any kind. The whole point of the 1200 line is that they are soooo resistant to external vibrations. I might change out the arm for fun, as it's really the only "weak link" in the package. I recently Got a Rega RB250 and all the upgrades for it that I was going to put on an older 1200, but now I might just put it on the GR.
Solid advice
Little off topic but...If I was going to replace the GRs footers with gaia 3s...then put the table on a wood isolation platform(plinth)...what should go under the platform? Couple or decouple the platform to rack shelf(spikes/cones) or sorbathane)
A good isolation platform is a good idea. Decoupling is always better than damping in this case. Even though a true decoupling is very difficult to achieve with a simple platform, in most cases IMO it is more a combination of these.
@@anadialog basically...Something like the gaia lll would be a tool used for "decoupling"...and spikes/cones would be used to "couple"?
first upgrade: power cord
and that's where i've seen enough to see where this is going
You wrong and moved by preconceptions. First you watch then you judge and hopefully discuss.
It is going to the wall socket. Wall sockets are wired with OCC silver electrical cables by electricians by default as we all know.
@@killbasa2000 furman power strip, if you get any noise AFTER the strip into turntable you have some MASSIVE RF. Like a microwave running with the door open. Looking at that tiny room maybe he does!
@@killbasa2000 Exactly. Head inside any speaker and what do you see? Skinny, cheap wires that you'd get in a hardware store.
just by chans I happen to discover that my phone, especially the apple 6 creates a terrible noise when it's to close to the power cord of the preamplifier. The apple 5 nothing and girlfriends apple neither just my apple 6. better shielding in the cable would be good, or better shielding of the phone. Others had same problem?
It's the Professor, where's Tokyo ? Great upload.
😆
Good video as usual. Bought a new SL1200 and quite soon it developed a play in the arm bearings and was kind of unstable in the high adjustment of the arm. So, a greate improvement was to adjust the rattling tonarm bearings and fix the tone arm base, not adjustable any more. after some fiddling with that Sl1200 i later bought a SL1000 with SME arm for 150$ (1993)
Have just ordered an open box deal 1210 GR and my intention is to fit my Jelco arm and Kuetso Red cartridge I also have a Colloro mat .
I have purchased the TECHNICS SL-1200GR2PS (silver) with a NAGAOKA MP-150 CARTRIDGE and the sound is superb without doing any modifications. Although when compared to an AUDIO TECHNICA AT-LP120XBT-USB with the supplied cartridge on a ISO ACOUSTICS DELOS 2216W2 FLOATING ISLAND side by side with the same record on both turntables the TECHNICS far surpasses the AUDIO TECHNICA. The TECHNICS is perfect the way it is out of the box. The Record Centre here in Ottawa, Ont. Canada sold me the turntable and installed the cartridge. They recommended the NAGAOKA MP-150 for great sound. Chat again soon. Marc.
I’m tempted to pull the trigger on a sl1210 GAE 55th anniversary model. With precision sound labs psu, and many other mods. Trying to sell my mk3d which is tricked out with everything
Cool! Give us some feedback if you do!
Pretty proud w/my 850.00 1981 DUAL 1264. After purchasing 'platter matter..wow & flutter went non-existent. Still works/sounds great w/the ULM Tome Arm.
Great video, as always! Even though I have an SL1210 mk2, I found this very interesting. I'm also thinking about changing the RCA cables, and eventually the power cord, although first I need to get a soldering iron (and learn how to use it). I'll be watching your video on homemade high quality cables. But I do have a question, does the height of the feet affect the level of isolation? Is it "better" to have to feet, let's say all the way up, or all the way down in order to reduce the impact of vibration?
Regards from Spain!
you use the feet adjustment to level the turntable - the height doesn't make much difference.
KAB has a host of upgrades you can do yourself if so inclined. The most labor intensive one is the tonearm cable upgrade, but KAB and others on TH-cam walk you through it. Definitely a labor of love.
Best upgrade is good music - I love Blue Note for making Tone Poet series and DG for Original Source Series and ECM for Luminessence series - bring them on before i buy a external power supply (i will tru the TEAC mat though)
Thanks
I have the GR version and noticed that the rubber mat is about half as thin as the old technics 1200 mats. I went on eBay and bought an original (thicker) technics rubber mat. I actually like their rubber mats. 🤷🏻♂️
great video!..nice list of upgrades to consider. About 10 years ago I bought a near-mint (basically "unused") Technics SL2-J6 Direct Drive turntable and it's been fantastic. I've been using the Grado black (eliptical) cartridge. I know there are many better (obviously) but I prefer the "classic" vinyl sound as much as possible. However, I'm thinking a Shibata tip moving coil might be my next upgrade. BTW Thanks for the suggestion on that! I don't get much inner groove distortion (unless it's a heavy metal album I'm playing) but maybe the shibata tip will track better on the "squeezed" grooves. I believe the arm is low mass so one thing I like about the Grado is that it's medium mass suits the lightweight arm well. I guess I could even go high mass next time and that would be okay. Right now I'm at 9g total weight (arm + cartridge).
One question I have...the (original) Technics manual that came with the player says the "Resonance Frequency" of the player is 12hz. I believe the ideal frequency is closer to 9-12hz, so I'm already on the higher end of the (suggested) range. What type of upgrades should I be cautious of that would not push the 12hz upward?
Thanks again my friend, very nice video.
Thank you man! Well, it's always the trick of matching the cart compliance and the arm mass. If they arm is to stay, you must look for the best compliance when searching for a new cart. Here are some details if you haven't seen it: th-cam.com/video/T428mIuw9IQ/w-d-xo.html
Can this aslo work for a tech 12 from the early 90's??? I HAVE two of them and they are in perfect condition
Most of them, yes. Che the KAB website they have several mods.
Nothing new here; I had an original SL120 with an SME 3009 series ii detachable head shell complete with the original FD200 fluid damper and an ADC magnesium head shell. I used various cartridges; ADC XLM, Stanton 681EEE, Shure V15. Ortofon M20 FL. This was before moving coil cartridges became popular. This was over 40 years ago, what goes around comes around?
Personally I would change the arm as I did on my 12:10 if I wanted a serious upgrade. But I do not have this turntable but I want one whether I will change the arm after listening to it I will see.
So it’s a great turntable for $4000 as long as you replace the tonearm, head shell, plinth, feet, power supply, mat, and cables. Oh, and add a dampening kit.
Humm....are you familiar with the upgrade concept?
@@anadialog Yea - not the same as “replace nearly everything on the turntable”. At that point, it’s no longer what you started with. Except when you try to resell it.
@@anadialogNow, I will say that I’ve done quite a few KAB upgrades to my 1982(?) mkii: tonearm wires and sleeve inside, ability to turn off the strobe light, new RCA cabling, silicone damping trough, external power supply, and newer cartridge, but this was on a 40+ year old machine that could’ve used the improvements to lessen the deficiencies realized over all that time. But it seems to me that to nearly double the expenditure on a semi-brand new unit (if you did all of those mods) means you weren’t majorly satisfied with what you just bought initially, and you could’ve put the combined money together and bought something that you really liked. Plus, after all of that money and time spent, you are not guaranteed that you’re going to like what you’ve left with, nor are you likely to recoup that money as an “upgraded” unit.
Exactly. I find it baffling that at 4K you should need to upgrade anything. If you wanted extreme audiophile stuff you wouldn’t be buying the is unit anyway. You’d be buying something for about £15K
The best upgrade for the technics SL1200 G, is no upgrade at all . The tone arm is as its meant to be , the feet are as technics envisaged, the mat is rubber as its meant to be, you may wonder how I know this , well I own one . I've changed the RCA leads and power cable , I've fitted a nagaoka mp 200 , I refuse to pay many hundreds of pounds on so called upgrades , if you keep upgrading you are no longer left with the 1200g, it's the law of diminishing returns , coupled up with the vagaries of the human ear and the ageing process. Its an excellently engineered work of art that instills emence pride of ownership, that just happens to play records very very well 😀👍.
of course you can upgrade it. only if you understand more than technics engineers, which I doubt.
@@DimitarDimitrov-cc9qy spot on , you are right ✅ 👍.
I think the Gaia can be make an big improvement, nothing is absolute.
Ehh, the best upgrade is the GAE, some parts of the high end SL1000, An extra layer as the G etc, so that's a real upgrade for the G
Hi Peter, Your argument may be valid for you, but it is not the ‘i ching’ for everyone and the 'just as technics envisaged' argument is weak and doubly negated by your own admission that you have 'changed the RCA leads and power cable' and a counter argument to 'the law of diminishing returns' is, in for a penny, in for a pound.
Technics is a business with accountants and sales people that come along with their great engineers and we are all individuals and therein is a spectrum of reasons to, or not to make changes.
I've never bought a component of this price without trying different power cables and IC's to tweak the gear to my personal taste, given a particular environment. In fact it strikes me that most people venturing as far as this price point are making a statement about the importance of audio in their lives that implies a high likelihood they are likely to take further steps.
Furthermore the fact that there's such an industry of upgrades for this deck makes it doubly clear that for a person like me this deck is an excellent starting point. I wouldn’t want to change the look, but others might, just s you would stay with a vanilla version.
I wish that money was no object so that I could immediately buy an upgraded external power supply, ultimate ICs and power cable and a ridiculously priced cart, but then again I wish I had the budget to go to the very top of the technics tree and do that too... As it is I'll have to live with my rather excellent idler-drive PTP6 Lenco75 with Rega RB3000 tonearm and Nagaoka MP500 that I built myself over several years recycling my ancient L75, but I so want a second deck and one day I will also have a cool modded SL1200G too, ...oh yes! ;-)
Hi sir, i have ordered just an technics sl1200gr2. Which powercord do you recommend? I am from The Netherlands. Thank you.
Hi there! In this case shielding is a good idea. Ludic for example makes great stuff at a decent price
@@anadialog thank you
I should mention that Fremer's videos on the Caliburn versus the Technics, showed the Caliburn sounded more like music than the Technics.
Indeed but the price is like 3k vs 250k....and the results where very close.
I confess I agree with you less than a 3rd of the time but still your channel is so valuable to learn about new things, regarding mats I wanted to bury my head in the sand for buying and Achromat (around £70) to my humble belt driven set up. I actually bought it because I hated the appearance of cork so not believing at all in all the so call benefits and ok, it was not miracle but static wen down and music bass gain a lot of control, it lifted my set up. That is a funkfirm product and they make a version for the Sl1200, did you try that one? Btw thanks for the Washi tip. I do not need it now but I get the reason why it should work.
Thanks for this video, I think it's the best so far and I like the intro! I have the GR to which I have added some upgrades, in particular the perfect interface from Stein music. I found that it was even better by keeping the original mat underneath, the sound seems warmer to me. Other upgrade, the Delos from isoacoustics is not bad too!
Good job!
Two years ago I had the chance to try and compare the Stein mat on my Roksan Xerxes 20+ and happily use it since then. It just sounds musically "right". The price for this flimsy piece of equipment might be insane but Holger Stein has done an impressive job by developing this mat@@anadialog
I put my in top of a pillow... It Works ... The only problem looks TAKY. Also I put news feet under the subwoofer ; You don’t feel it , but I hear the base .
😆
Great video. FYI - it’s RESonance as opposed to resONance :)
What about the obligatory coin on the headshell?
That was something they used to do in the past to add mass because low compliance was common.
Technics have just released the 1200 GR2 which tackles your first upgrade, they put a power supply from their flagship hi-fi system AND ontop of that it has Noise Cancelling apparently???
its funny im looking at the 1200 spinning behind him and i can clearly see platter wobble on the edges of that thing turning from here....at that distance, through youtube....hmmmm
Unfortunately several Technics suffered from this. I have seen videos where this was very noticeable. I think mine did suffer a bit of this. In any case now it’s gone.
Hi there,
I just bought SL1200G, please tell me, because it is little far on this moive - the dots on edges of plate are totaly equal on every side of plate?
When you look at it do not You fell they are waving a little?
They are and they must be equal to check speed...unfortunately some people claim that the platter wobbles. Mine did a tiny little bit, I have seen video of serious wobble...unfortunately this is a true issue...
@@anadialog Thnks for answer, could you give me some email to I send You video of mine to You could tell what You think?
Upload it to your profile, make it public and share the link here
Upload it to your profile, make it public and share the link here
@@anadialog
th-cam.com/video/0pVwKOmSycE/w-d-xo.html
Above is link to short movie. Hope in my case it is not a problem. I've seen a lot 1200G TH-cam movies and they mostly little waving...
I think silver straps above dots, and under dots are not 100% same wide all around the plate and it makes visuality of little waving. Sincerely in this price plates should be perfect. For sure it is beter made in my SL1100 mae in 1973.
What do You think about mine, should I be worried?
Hi i have a 1200 mk 2 since 1989, just used for listening and serviced twice, and it’s still amazing.
Just out of curiosity, are you italian?
Best regards from Italy anyway, love your vids.
Giova
Lo sono!
Ah sentivo un accento familiare...
You bought well Gio , think how many lesser decks you would have purchased other wise , the SL1200 MK2 is bomb proof 😉
Would you know the thread size of the Isoacoustics Gaia 3 feet suitable for the SL1200 GR ?
Many years ago I learned that a turntable is actualy a musical instrument and needs to be properly tuned. Each table must be tuned differently over time by adding and taking away different tweaks..
I just bought the 1200g and I'm having an issue balancing the tonearm and getting the correct tracking force I am using a ortofon blue ortofon headshell I'm not using the aux weight , when I balance the tone arm and set I set the I set the dial to zero on the counter weight then adjust to 1.8 for xorrect counter forcer weight when I check with scale I am 1.4 tracking force instead of 1.8 what can it be please help
Just turn the weight until you get the desired force, forget the dials
My 1600mk2 has platter suspension & platter rubber coating. Love automatic since have a hand problem
I have the TEAC washi with a technics sl1600 . Is it okay to use on top of original mat? My tt does not have vta adjustments
Sure, it's very thin!
Hi thanks for another great video, I have an 1210GAE, with the Nagaoka JT-1210 cartridge, and I love it! This cartridge that was specifically tuned by a joint team of engineers from Technics and Nagaoka. Have you had the oportunity to listen to it, what do you think about it?
I haven't! But Nagaoka is a great brand
Dude, this video is badass! I wish I could afford a technics! I used to be "vinyl city 2" btw!
Usefull & interesting as usual!!
Thank you for the review of possible upgrades. I like the Funk Firm package they put for Technics SL1200 series (absorbing feet, absorbing rug, houdini cartridge add on). But the weakness of the turntable seems to be the tonearm. The tonearm you recommend for upgrade no longer exists. In fact, it is a struggle to find a tonearm of good quality with a removable headshell. Why is that? There would be a niche market there with significant profits. Technics SL 1200 is by far the most sold turntable. Would you have any tonearm suggestions for 2022-2023?
Hi, maybe you can help me, I bought an 1210GR in United States, I took the turntable to my country where we have 220v, the label in the back reads 120v, but in the page I can see they are multi voltage, do you know if I can plug my GR directly to 220v without using a step down transformer? Thanks in advance
Diego I don't know in detail that model. Don't plug it in until you are 100% sure. Try asking your dealer or directly Technics!
@@anadialog Many thanks for your help, I already contacted Technics in the page, I hope they answer me.
👍
While I trust the engineers that designed this turntable, the ability to upgrade or modify this turntable is fun. Go to town and modulate all you want. Or don’t. It’s a hobby not a cult.
The mat that is advised here doesn't seem to have an indentation (lower part) at the center where the label of the LP resides. So the LP more or less floats in an instable manner above the mat, only making contact with the mat via the label. How can that be a good thing?! I use the Funk Firm Achromat which has such an indentation for the label; I like the relaxation of the sound it provides (Turntable VPI Scoutmaster Signature).
I have the acromat. Good but not the best for the Technics. The mat is so thin that it doesn't influence the label. With a standard clamp you can be sound in that if it concerns you.
The capacitors, they vibrate ? Could you explain more ?
Indeed, adding noise. Don't take my word for it. Here is a scientific article that should help: www.dropbox.com/s/sgd9bszsbkqvp6a/Capacitors_for_Reduced_Microphonics_and_Sound_Emis.pdf?dl=0
I made a dedicated video on the subject. Check also the other docs in the video description: th-cam.com/video/UYMbi7v2pNU/w-d-xo.html
I'm hoping to pick up a Japanese-built GR before the stock runs out. I just found out that Technics has shifted manufacturing from Japan to Malaysia as of this past April, and while quality control is obviously not going to drop to Hanpin levels, it's still not going to be quite the same as the Japanese models.
The Malaysian company has no other choice than to follow the patents and the blue engineering drawings by Technics, so you don't need to worry about the quality. Thank god it's not China.
By the way.... I have just found this statement, it's from Panasonic and was sent to Technics dealers, so we shouldn't worry:
Greetings Technics Dealers,
I’d like to express our appreciation for your strong support and contribution to the continuing sales of Technics products.
This notice is to inform you that Panasonic has decided to relocate the production of Technics products currently manufactured in Utsunomiya, Japan, to our Malaysia production facilities effective April 1, 2021. This move will strengthen our logistics management by concentrating all our production resources to one facility while strengthening our competitive edge. The models involved are as follows: SL-1200GR/SL-1210GR/SL-1200G/SP-10R/SL-1000R
This change will enhance our Technics production and engineering. This process incorporates the most up-to-date technology standards and state-of-the-art mechanical manufacturing, which will ensure that the renowned Technics attention to detail will remain unchanged resulting in product quality that satisfies our most discriminating critics. As you may recall, our Malaysia factory has been manufacturing other fine products like the SC-C70MK2/SC-C30/SC-C50/SL-1200MK7/SL-1500C/SU-G700/SL-G700 and the new SU-R1000.
While we have paid due diligence to deliver as much product as possible from the Utsunomiya factory, the earliest arrivals from the new Malaysia factory will likely be end of May to mid-June. Please bear with us through the transition. The sales team will continue to provide details on your existing order fulfillment as they are informed.
I will take my 4 MIJ older tables and new MIJ GR any day over any location Technics decides to make tables.
MIJ Technics resale will be much better than MI-X. Personally I would prefer an MIJ than an MI-X any day of the week.
Last year, I bought one of the last 1200GR turntables made in Japan. I specifically want one made in Japan because I was also concerned about quality control for Malaysian units. I could not find one in the U.S., but was able locate one in the UK.
Nice Video a few items are questionable upgrade from an already almost perfect turntable at $3900. However people like to tweak and improve anything if they can. Hence Automobiles as an example. I am considering this turntable or a VPI Prime. Not sure which would provide the best sound and utility. I am thinking the Technics being it is so well engineered for plug an play.
Build a turntable sandbox 3” of play sand and forget feet . Sandboxes are a game changer in sound
Yep. Great way to dissipate energy - that's why they use sand to slow bullets.
Thank you for this video. I just ordered a new SL1210-GR not the top of the line like yours but is still a very good TT. I am going to do some of the upgrades you mentioned like good RCA output cables, better power cord for sure as a start. However I need to consider cartridges and phono Pre-s do you you have a video on these? Or recommendations. I was considering either a Whest Two.2 or a Sutherland 20/20 per phono stage and a Hana ML cartridge. Thoughts?
Great choices there! I would go with the Sutherland all the way, Hana included!
The Hana ML is an extraordinary cartridge for the money. I've lost count of the number of MC carts I've used but I've had at least a dozen that cost more than the Hana but none that were better. I've also got their Umami Red which is better again but not by much. The ML is the standout value in the range.
Funnily enough I've also had Whest and Sutherland phono stages, not those models though. Mate of mine has a Limetree which, if you ditch the wall wart PSU in favour of a linear one, is very good indeed - far better than you'd expect for £800.
@@anadialog Well I went with the Whest two.2 and a AT 740ML MM cartridge. There were mixed reviews on which is better and the consensus was both are great. I saved more cash on the Whest and being this was my first cart and pre gave it a shot. So far no regrets.
@@leehazlewoodism I think I will get this as a second cartridge down the road. So far liking my MM AT740ML.
❓Wouldn't it be reasonable to quantify the upgrade's sound improvement for each single action ? Especially when your budget is limited. 🤔🧐
Thanks for the tips, especially the tone arm assist block for buffering the tone arm, what a great idea and I'd never heard of that material for a turntable mat, will try the Washi mat for sure. Currently I use a cork mat on my old Technics SL1700 turntable and it made a vast difference over felt(the biggest impact being you don't get fibers coming off onto your vinyl records.) I'm thinking of upgrading to the SL1200 GR model(the G model looks amazing but it's $7000 versus $2750 and is there really that much of a difference for that extra $4250?? Fellow Audiophiles, please let me know what it gives you thmat the standard already high quality model doesn't. It's already a step above the SL1210 MK 7(which is more of a DJ specific model and features options which to be honest just looked like they would add more noise than anything else for the audiophile) and 2 steps above the entry level SL1500C model, so I'm leaning towards it. It represents great value without going into the too much money or dare I say it 'rich and shameless' category but hey if it gets the sound improvements that give you joy, then it's worth it right? I'd also argue that unless your going to get a very expensive phono pre-amp, is the SL1200 G really going to be worth it? Please do enlighten me fellow fans, as there has to be some amazing benefits to be had for that extra money. (You can almost purchase three SL1200GR turntables for the cost of the G model.)
I hope you don’t regret replacing your technics g?
Nope!
Sir, you have a nice Technics turntable.
Now he hasn't it , now he has the EMT 938
Yup, still remains a remarkable record spinner!
Love it that your paying attention to the cabling , it very important, great video👍
Good video. I’m about to fit a Funk FX3 to mine, just waiting for an arm board. I borrowed a 1200G with FX3 first with an AT Art1000 on it, absolutely stunning. I also compared it to an SMEV and it easily beat it for way under half the price. The carbon fibre cross in the tube seems to me a game changer. I had the KAB 1000 on the standard arm and would recommend it. I also installed the Timestep power supply. The pic you showed is the old one, the new one has a switch in the front. I made recordings before and after, it does make a significant difference. I’m using a 5mm Achromat on mine. Big improvement over rubber.
While I use the Gaia under my Martin Logan CLX Arts, I think they have too much damping for the turntable. Their platform or a Townshend Seismic Sink or more cheaply and just as effective, the Funk Boings. I have all three in different places in my systems!
I made my own silver shielded litz interconnect, better than anything else I have tried from VDH QED or Neotech. I tried AT Art9 but its not a good match for the arm 6.5Hz resonant frequency, sounded very bright even with extreme VTA!
The teac washi link no longer exists.also on teac nothing is said about this product.any thoughts?
Just need to check the website better. Right here, under accessories: eu.teac-audio.com/en-GLOBAL/audio-hifi/turntables/turntables/turntable-accessories/ta-ts30un/p/156681
What power cable would you recommend? I have the GR and I don't have a large budget to spend on the cable. Would rather save up to get the 1200G.
Thanks for you advice.
Terry
Nothing fancy, really! Just a well shielded powercord. This 20$ ine seems perfect: qrco.de/bbWtAZ
Better invest mainly on the interconnects! Or, I forgot to mention in the video, the cartrdige leads.
You forgot some kind or record clamp, especially since you have a light mat.
Not a big a fan of those
Regarding arms ; SME have stopped supplying arms on their own (you can only get them on SME turntables), Another alternative arm choice used to be the Jelco Arms however Jelco closed their business in early May 2020 so choices are really quite limited. Timestep do have a list of options on their website for SL upgrades that may be food for thought. I have the ISONOE feet, Oyaide mat and the PSU upgrade. However I really wanted the tonearm upgrade...still waiting for the right moment. Oh and a good Phono preamp also helps.... (apologies if any of this has already been covered)
Il give you a like 👍 seeing as no one else bothered great Info thanks
GrooveMaster-III is superior to Jelco and currently in business. Great for SPU.
If get this topic right, major enhancements are about stopping feedback, right? I have that problem, too. Two things: 1.preamp has to be nearest possible to tonarm. Why it is not, that is twilight zone.
2. Have you ever consider about electronicaly removing feedback? It exist, why it is not implemented, also belongs to twilight zone.
Do you mean hum? I made a dedicated video on the topic: th-cam.com/video/P-ekwNDGKeA/w-d-xo.html
I like the way the 1500C looks but not the other models. Since HS in the late 70’s always have had a great aversion to disco. A 1500C with a funk firm black mat that looks stock and locking interconnects with isonoe feet and I think I have all the turntable I need…and I love it’s build and looks which is a big deal for me. I have it and my system on a 1951 brick and mortar fireplace hearth… no more wood fires but it makes for a robust support. We have a gas fireplace in the main living room that can heat much of the house. Great channel and regards from Bakersfield!
The Caliburn Continuum was $65,000 and the recommended stand that the 160 pound turn table sits on was $25,000.
Indeed, got that one wrong as several dozens underlined....;-)