excellent video, thank you for simplifying the process! they over complicate the procedure if you read the Mercedes WIS, bottom line, 5L is a safe refill quantity.
Not only they overcomplicate it but also the Check Level Procedure DOES NOT actually work! I have tried multiple times and the oil never stops flowing from the pipe when it's setup in the Check Level position! I mean I was very very frustrated of why they made it like this in the first place! Then they ask you to check it with some radar tool or whatever it was, which sorry how many people are doing to have these?! I am yet to see one at the smaller independent shops... Thanks and Good Luck 👍🤞
@@projectathos yes correct. The truth is they want owners to bring to Mercedes dealership for services, they want to discourage the DIY mechanics and even independent shops. That’s ok, we always find a way! 👍🏼
After doing this ATF change myself on my 2019 C43, I found it virtually impossible to remove those back pan screws without moving the transmission mount/bracket out of the way. I had to use two jacks to do this because the transmission lowers and there's no place to hold up the jack. I succeeded by shifting the mount downward enough on the back part of the mount to access the pan screws. Once I was done removing all the pan bolts, installing the new pan and screws, a second jack was necessary to push the mount back up without damaging anything. Such a pain. Otherwise, this job is easy.
Great video. thank you. I am interested in two things. according to the specification, 9 liters of oil goes into that gearbox, and you poured 5 liters. I don't understand that. And I'm curious, where do you buy that plastic tool? Does it come with a filter or is it bought separately? Thank you...
Let me correct myself. You poured 5l because 4.5l came out of the gearbox. but how did so little oil come out because supposedly 9l of oil goes into it?
The reason why you see only 4.5L come out is because the reat is in the Valve Body above the oil pan and also inside the transmission and lastly in the Torque Converter. The plastic tool you need to buy separately but I would recommend buying the metal version as I already got the metal upgraded version because is more solid and you don't want that tool breaking in the parts you are changing. That tools is available all over the place like amazon ebay and so forth - Mercedes 9G transmission service tool should be called. You are not supposed to replace the whole fluid in your transmission and I will give you my explanation here that I already posted earlier replying to another person here. This topic about changing the whole fluid out or "flushing" seems to be very controversial and I will try to explain my reasons here - the way transmissions work is very different from let's say the engines. In the Engine when you do an oil change you do indeed need to change the whole fluid! You are not supposed to leave any dirt particles because they can get in the galleries and destroy your bearings that work on microns of tolerance! Now with transmissions this is the opposite! I have rebuilt transmissions myself and have studied them before doing so. I also have enough knowledge which I always try to gather more by the way by studying everything I want to do in advance... So in your transmission you have so called packages or drums of clutches that are actually soaked in the transmission fluid. In order for those to start moving so that your car starts moving you need the fluid that creates the compression where the clutches are compressed against the metal plates between the clutches. There's also a partial friction physical law that happens so that those clutches start moving. So what I have seen through the years is that if you do not do your regular maintenance of changing this fluid in your transmission the clutches will still work but the fluid because it gets burnt by the friction of the clutches will start destroying the transmission and technically burning the clutches. Then you would say yes this is the case where you need to always replace the whole fluid so that it's fresh and it doesn't burn the clutches. But there is another situation happening at the same time while the transmission is working. Your clutches release very fine particles into the fluid and those particles actually help the clutches to work the way they're supposed to work. What I have seen when people replaced or flushed the whole transmission they actually ended up taking out those foreign particles and therefore leaving a bigger gap between the clutches. Next thing that you can guess is they started burning their clutches because of the gap and the new transmission fluid which doesn't have the power to fill those gaps. I would say that you may flush a transmission anywhere in the range of up to 50,000 miles because the clutches are still new and the new fluid will not damage them. Meanwhile if you actually change partially your fluid every 30 to 40,000 Miles you would be able to get a very prolonged life expectancy of your transmission! Remember your transmission is not made to last forever! Those clutches are made to wear out no matter what! All the cars that we have owned and I have done the partial service have lasted up to 300,000 miles with no problem! Meanwhile I have seen multiple times on customers vehicles when someone replaced their complete fluid and the transmission started slipping immediately! I even know a friend who did this full flush service on a couple different Brands of cars he had just bought against my advice and ended up burning up both transmissions! He had to get rid of those cars very fast! This is why we always keep the old fluids for a little bit longer after we do the service to make sure that we don't have a bad reaction from the clutches so that we need to install the old fluid back in to make the transmission run back normally. At that point you are only going to prolong the inevitable anyway! This is my experience from what I have seen and have done this many times and this is why I'm sharing this information and this is why I do the service the way I do it. I cannot vouch for what anybody else will tell you and why they will claim that their way is the best thing to do. Unfortunately Mercedes does not explain this information to you nor any other company for that matter! Not to mention that on other German brands the transmission fluid is not supposed to be replaced according to those same manufacturers... Thanks and Good Luck! 👍
Advice, my friend, where do you prefer to change the entire transmission oil or just the lower part, because I will change the entire cycle to Liqui Moly 236.17. Give me advice.😊❤
Nope, you need to only change the fluid in transmission pan side and not the whole transmission! You are risking damaging your transmission especially if you have some miles on your vehicle. You can read in the other comments where I explain why you do only a partial fluid change. Anyway Mercedes recommends this partial fluid change also... Thanks and Good Luck! 🤞💪👍
I saw the procedure for flushing the torque converter scroll by when you looking through the shop manual. Why would you leave half the dirty fluid in the system by not draining the torque converter?
This topic seems to be very controversial and I will try to explain my reasons here - the way transmissions work is very different from let's say the engines. In the Engine when you do an oil change you do indeed need to change the whole fluid! You are not supposed to leave any dirt particles because they can get in the galleries and destroy your bearings that work on microns of tolerance! Now with transmissions this is the opposite! I have rebuilt transmissions myself and have studied them before doing so. I also have enough knowledge which I always try to gather more by the way by studying everything I want to do in advance... So in your transmission you have so called packages or drums of clutches that are actually soaked in the transmission fluid. In order for those to start moving so that your car starts moving you need the fluid that creates the compression where the clutches are compressed against the metal plates between the clutches. There's also a partial friction physical law that happens so that those clutches start moving. So what I have seen through the years is that if you do not do your regular maintenance of changing this fluid in your transmission the clutches will still work but the fluid because it gets burnt by the friction of the clutches will start destroying the transmission and technically burning the clutches. Then you would say yes this is the case where you need to always replace the whole fluid so that it's fresh and it doesn't burn the clutches. But there is another situation happening at the same time while the transmission is working. Your clutches release very fine particles into the fluid and those particles actually help the clutches to work the way they're supposed to work. What I have seen when people replaced or flushed the whole transmission they actually ended up taking out those foreign particles and therefore leaving a bigger gap between the clutches. Next thing that you can guess is they started burning their clutches because of the gap and the new transmission fluid which doesn't have the power to fill those gaps. I would say that you may flush a transmission anywhere in the range of up to 50,000 miles because the clutches are still new and the new fluid will not damage them. Meanwhile if you actually change partially your fluid every 30 to 40,000 Miles you would be able to get a very prolonged life expectancy of your transmission! Remember your transmission is not made to last forever! Those clutches are made to wear out no matter what! All the cars that we have owned and I have done the partial service have lasted up to 300,000 miles with no problem! Meanwhile I have seen multiple times on customers vehicles when someone replaced their complete fluid and the transmission started slipping immediately! I even know a friend who did this full flush service on a couple different Brands of cars he had just bought against my advice and ended up burning up both transmissions! He had to get rid of those cars very fast! This is why we always keep the old fluids for a little bit longer after we do the service to make sure that we don't have a bad reaction from the clutches so that we need to install the old fluid back in to make the transmission run back normally. At that point you are only going to prolong the inevitable anyway! This is my experience from what I have seen and have done this many times and this is why I'm sharing this information and this is why I do the service the way I do it. I cannot vouch for what anybody else will tell you and why they will claim that their way is the best thing to do. Unfortunately Mercedes does not explain this information to you nor any other company for that matter! Not to mention that on other German brands the transmission fluid is not supposed to be replaced according to those same manufacturers... Thanks and Good Luck! 👍
Thanks for the excellent explanation. I had heard a version of that reasoning years ago, thought it was maybe only true for an old piece of junk car you wanted to sell so you change half the ugly, dirty, burnt oil to make it look better, leaving some old to hopefully prevent slippage but the buyer doesn't know the trans is going bad. I've always used Amsoil and do a 100% change every 50K. Its always so clean I wonder why I'm doing it. My theory being, yes there is wear but if the premium fluid is so clean then there has been very little wear so I don't need to leave residual in an expectation the trans is getting worn out. I haven't been a professional mechanic so my experience is limited to personal vehicles only. I had a Ford E350 that was used to tow a boat through the desert. Loved that 460 BTW. Sold it with about a 100,000 miles never had a problem. Likewise with a 93 400E. 185,000 miles and the trans was still perfect. I even ran that car hard on the track at Willow Springs with a racing club. Now my Ram 2500 with the cummins diesel has 350,000. Manual Trans and transfer case call for ATF. So far so good.
@@insanelywicked873 The Colorado river as well as Lake Mead, Lake Powell, lake Havasu are in desert regions. If you live in the greater Los Angeles area you are towing through the desert, sometimes when its 115 degrees to get to the destination.
I have not tried whatever model this oil is but if it's for your particular vehicle I would use Liqui Moly with no reservations! Make sure always that it's Full Synthetic though! Liqui Moly have very good products and I would recommend them also compared to Pentosin products. Thanks and Good Luck! 🤞💪👍
Yes, all Transmissions are vented on the top through either a pipe or a valve with a cap. They are manufactured in this way in case of an overfill. Thanks and Good Luck! 🤞💪👍
It looks like you have the AMG Speedshift MCT 7 speed transmission which is different from the 7G-Tronic ones. You would need to get 6 bottles in case you need some extra but make sure when you get the old one out to keep it and measure how much you got out. Also make sure to get the proper fluid for your car because it will be different from the 7G-TRONIC. Thanks and Good Luck 👍🤞
As I explained before you are not supposed to change the whole oil because you can destroy your transmission when the clutches start slipping because of the new oil. Again Mercedes DOES NOT recommend a complete fluid change but only a partial one. This is what this video is about. Thanks 👍
@@projectathosЗдравей моя майстор го смени със машина 10 лт вкара и стана лошо между 1 и 2 започва да рита леко.Сега какво трябва да направя? Виждъл съм и много клипове тук със машина сменят!
Well, this is a very precise job and it needs to be with extreme care so you don't end up with a leak after the change and so forth. So it's up to you whether you would want to pay to someone to do it and possibly try doing it yourself. Thanks 👍
No need to change the oil in the converter. It's not recommended by Mercedes either. There's a huge risk of creating slipping conditions when the whole fluid is changed. Hence the partial fluid change which is actually recommended by Mercedes. Thanks 👍
Thank you for making this video. It literally saved me about $700
Thanks for your support! 🤞💪👍
excellent video, thank you for simplifying the process! they over complicate the procedure if you read the Mercedes WIS, bottom line, 5L is a safe refill quantity.
Not only they overcomplicate it but also the Check Level Procedure DOES NOT actually work! I have tried multiple times and the oil never stops flowing from the pipe when it's setup in the Check Level position! I mean I was very very frustrated of why they made it like this in the first place! Then they ask you to check it with some radar tool or whatever it was, which sorry how many people are doing to have these?! I am yet to see one at the smaller independent shops... Thanks and Good Luck 👍🤞
@@projectathos yes correct. The truth is they want owners to bring to Mercedes dealership for services, they want to discourage the DIY mechanics and even independent shops. That’s ok, we always find a way! 👍🏼
Yea 5L an your good, just like the older gen with the level shaft for oil level
smart video !!
Thanks 👍😊
After doing this ATF change myself on my 2019 C43, I found it virtually impossible to remove those back pan screws without moving the transmission mount/bracket out of the way. I had to use two jacks to do this because the transmission lowers and there's no place to hold up the jack. I succeeded by shifting the mount downward enough on the back part of the mount to access the pan screws. Once I was done removing all the pan bolts, installing the new pan and screws, a second jack was necessary to push the mount back up without damaging anything. Such a pain. Otherwise, this job is easy.
💯🤞💪👍
Great Video very informal. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the support! 😁
Great video. thank you. I am interested in two things. according to the specification, 9 liters of oil goes into that gearbox, and you poured 5 liters. I don't understand that. And I'm curious, where do you buy that plastic tool? Does it come with a filter or is it bought separately? Thank you...
Let me correct myself. You poured 5l because 4.5l came out of the gearbox. but how did so little oil come out because supposedly 9l of oil goes into it?
The reason why you see only 4.5L come out is because the reat is in the Valve Body above the oil pan and also inside the transmission and lastly in the Torque Converter. The plastic tool you need to buy separately but I would recommend buying the metal version as I already got the metal upgraded version because is more solid and you don't want that tool breaking in the parts you are changing. That tools is available all over the place like amazon ebay and so forth - Mercedes 9G transmission service tool should be called. You are not supposed to replace the whole fluid in your transmission and I will give you my explanation here that I already posted earlier replying to another person here.
This topic about changing the whole fluid out or "flushing" seems to be very controversial and I will try to explain my reasons here - the way transmissions work is very different from let's say the engines. In the Engine when you do an oil change you do indeed need to change the whole fluid! You are not supposed to leave any dirt particles because they can get in the galleries and destroy your bearings that work on microns of tolerance!
Now with transmissions this is the opposite! I have rebuilt transmissions myself and have studied them before doing so. I also have enough knowledge which I always try to gather more by the way by studying everything I want to do in advance... So in your transmission you have so called packages or drums of clutches that are actually soaked in the transmission fluid. In order for those to start moving so that your car starts moving you need the fluid that creates the compression where the clutches are compressed against the metal plates between the clutches. There's also a partial friction physical law that happens so that those clutches start moving. So what I have seen through the years is that if you do not do your regular maintenance of changing this fluid in your transmission the clutches will still work but the fluid because it gets burnt by the friction of the clutches will start destroying the transmission and technically burning the clutches. Then you would say yes this is the case where you need to always replace the whole fluid so that it's fresh and it doesn't burn the clutches. But there is another situation happening at the same time while the transmission is working. Your clutches release very fine particles into the fluid and those particles actually help the clutches to work the way they're supposed to work. What I have seen when people replaced or flushed the whole transmission they actually ended up taking out those foreign particles and therefore leaving a bigger gap between the clutches. Next thing that you can guess is they started burning their clutches because of the gap and the new transmission fluid which doesn't have the power to fill those gaps. I would say that you may flush a transmission anywhere in the range of up to 50,000 miles because the clutches are still new and the new fluid will not damage them. Meanwhile if you actually change partially your fluid every 30 to 40,000 Miles you would be able to get a very prolonged life expectancy of your transmission! Remember your transmission is not made to last forever! Those clutches are made to wear out no matter what! All the cars that we have owned and I have done the partial service have lasted up to 300,000 miles with no problem! Meanwhile I have seen multiple times on customers vehicles when someone replaced their complete fluid and the transmission started slipping immediately! I even know a friend who did this full flush service on a couple different Brands of cars he had just bought against my advice and ended up burning up both transmissions! He had to get rid of those cars very fast! This is why we always keep the old fluids for a little bit longer after we do the service to make sure that we don't have a bad reaction from the clutches so that we need to install the old fluid back in to make the transmission run back normally. At that point you are only going to prolong the inevitable anyway! This is my experience from what I have seen and have done this many times and this is why I'm sharing this information and this is why I do the service the way I do it. I cannot vouch for what anybody else will tell you and why they will claim that their way is the best thing to do. Unfortunately Mercedes does not explain this information to you nor any other company for that matter! Not to mention that on other German brands the transmission fluid is not supposed to be replaced according to those same manufacturers... Thanks and Good Luck! 👍
@@gorandrazic4064
Thank you kind sir!
Thanks for your support! 🤞💪👍
Advice, my friend, where do you prefer to change the entire transmission oil or just the lower part, because I will change the entire cycle to Liqui Moly 236.17. Give me advice.😊❤
Nope, you need to only change the fluid in transmission pan side and not the whole transmission! You are risking damaging your transmission especially if you have some miles on your vehicle. You can read in the other comments where I explain why you do only a partial fluid change. Anyway Mercedes recommends this partial fluid change also... Thanks and Good Luck! 🤞💪👍
Thanks my friend😅💔
I saw the procedure for flushing the torque converter scroll by when you looking through the shop manual. Why would you leave half the dirty fluid in the system by not draining the torque converter?
This topic seems to be very controversial and I will try to explain my reasons here - the way transmissions work is very different from let's say the engines. In the Engine when you do an oil change you do indeed need to change the whole fluid! You are not supposed to leave any dirt particles because they can get in the galleries and destroy your bearings that work on microns of tolerance!
Now with transmissions this is the opposite! I have rebuilt transmissions myself and have studied them before doing so. I also have enough knowledge which I always try to gather more by the way by studying everything I want to do in advance... So in your transmission you have so called packages or drums of clutches that are actually soaked in the transmission fluid. In order for those to start moving so that your car starts moving you need the fluid that creates the compression where the clutches are compressed against the metal plates between the clutches. There's also a partial friction physical law that happens so that those clutches start moving. So what I have seen through the years is that if you do not do your regular maintenance of changing this fluid in your transmission the clutches will still work but the fluid because it gets burnt by the friction of the clutches will start destroying the transmission and technically burning the clutches. Then you would say yes this is the case where you need to always replace the whole fluid so that it's fresh and it doesn't burn the clutches. But there is another situation happening at the same time while the transmission is working. Your clutches release very fine particles into the fluid and those particles actually help the clutches to work the way they're supposed to work. What I have seen when people replaced or flushed the whole transmission they actually ended up taking out those foreign particles and therefore leaving a bigger gap between the clutches. Next thing that you can guess is they started burning their clutches because of the gap and the new transmission fluid which doesn't have the power to fill those gaps. I would say that you may flush a transmission anywhere in the range of up to 50,000 miles because the clutches are still new and the new fluid will not damage them. Meanwhile if you actually change partially your fluid every 30 to 40,000 Miles you would be able to get a very prolonged life expectancy of your transmission! Remember your transmission is not made to last forever! Those clutches are made to wear out no matter what! All the cars that we have owned and I have done the partial service have lasted up to 300,000 miles with no problem! Meanwhile I have seen multiple times on customers vehicles when someone replaced their complete fluid and the transmission started slipping immediately! I even know a friend who did this full flush service on a couple different Brands of cars he had just bought against my advice and ended up burning up both transmissions! He had to get rid of those cars very fast! This is why we always keep the old fluids for a little bit longer after we do the service to make sure that we don't have a bad reaction from the clutches so that we need to install the old fluid back in to make the transmission run back normally. At that point you are only going to prolong the inevitable anyway! This is my experience from what I have seen and have done this many times and this is why I'm sharing this information and this is why I do the service the way I do it. I cannot vouch for what anybody else will tell you and why they will claim that their way is the best thing to do. Unfortunately Mercedes does not explain this information to you nor any other company for that matter! Not to mention that on other German brands the transmission fluid is not supposed to be replaced according to those same manufacturers... Thanks and Good Luck! 👍
Thanks for the excellent explanation. I had heard a version of that reasoning years ago, thought it was maybe only true for an old piece of junk car you wanted to sell so you change half the ugly, dirty, burnt oil to make it look better, leaving some old to hopefully prevent slippage but the buyer doesn't know the trans is going bad. I've always used Amsoil and do a 100% change every 50K. Its always so clean I wonder why I'm doing it. My theory being, yes there is wear but if the premium fluid is so clean then there has been very little wear so I don't need to leave residual in an expectation the trans is getting worn out. I haven't been a professional mechanic so my experience is limited to personal vehicles only. I had a Ford E350 that was used to tow a boat through the desert. Loved that 460 BTW. Sold it with about a 100,000 miles never had a problem. Likewise with a 93 400E. 185,000 miles and the trans was still perfect. I even ran that car hard on the track at Willow Springs with a racing club. Now my Ram 2500 with the cummins diesel has 350,000. Manual Trans and transfer case call for ATF. So far so good.
@@bentleyjarrard885Why were you towing a boat through a desert? I'm genuinely curious lol.
@@insanelywicked873 The Colorado river as well as Lake Mead, Lake Powell, lake Havasu are in desert regions. If you live in the greater Los Angeles area you are towing through the desert, sometimes when its 115 degrees to get to the destination.
Nice to know. I don't live anywhere near a desert.
Is it necessary after changing the oil, programming with the computer??
No programming... Thanks! 🤞💪👍
What do you think of LIQUI MOLY 236.17-1950 oil? Did you try it and do you advise me? I care about your opinion
I have not tried whatever model this oil is but if it's for your particular vehicle I would use Liqui Moly with no reservations! Make sure always that it's Full Synthetic though! Liqui Moly have very good products and I would recommend them also compared to Pentosin products. Thanks and Good Luck! 🤞💪👍
@@projectathos😇👍@@projectathos
@@projectathos
@@projectathos
Thank you! What radio station is in the background?
Vannila Radio Smooth & Sexy. Find it online. Thanks
hi, nice one. but i thought after filling in the oil, there suppose one more step to check for the oil level and drain the excessive oil?
Is the transmission vented somewhere? I’m wondering about the pressure from refilling it?
Yes, all Transmissions are vented on the top through either a pipe or a valve with a cap. They are manufactured in this way in case of an overfill. Thanks and Good Luck! 🤞💪👍
Hello, I got MB S63 amg w222 4matic+. Its the type 725.0? How much oil should I buy (5litres as you said)? Thanks
It looks like you have the AMG Speedshift MCT 7 speed transmission which is different from the 7G-Tronic ones. You would need to get 6 bottles in case you need some extra but make sure when you get the old one out to keep it and measure how much you got out. Also make sure to get the proper fluid for your car because it will be different from the 7G-TRONIC. Thanks and Good Luck 👍🤞
I have no idea why Nissan put this transmission in the frontier
Didn't know the Frontier had this transmission... Strange to be on a Nissan too... 😐👍
3 Liter oil ist in Wandler normal yu need 8 Liter oil to change
As I explained before you are not supposed to change the whole oil because you can destroy your transmission when the clutches start slipping because of the new oil. Again Mercedes DOES NOT recommend a complete fluid change but only a partial one. This is what this video is about. Thanks 👍
@@projectathosЗдравей моя майстор го смени със машина 10 лт вкара и стана лошо между 1 и 2 започва да рита леко.Сега какво трябва да направя? Виждъл съм и много клипове тук със машина сменят!
Where did you get the fill equipment
The machine was hand made by a technician. It just has a fluid pump with some piping is what it is... Thanks👍
Charging a $1,000 for a oil change is a Scam....WOW
Well, this is a very precise job and it needs to be with extreme care so you don't end up with a leak after the change and so forth. So it's up to you whether you would want to pay to someone to do it and possibly try doing it yourself. Thanks 👍
Very precise my donkey hole. This is on 50% of Mopar vehicles during the same time frame.
This is an old post now, but don't pay anyone to do this. You can do it yourself, assuming you have all the tools and reagents!
I dot See die oil vom Wandler didnt change
No need to change the oil in the converter. It's not recommended by Mercedes either. There's a huge risk of creating slipping conditions when the whole fluid is changed. Hence the partial fluid change which is actually recommended by Mercedes. Thanks 👍
@@projectathosThen why not just leave the pan and filter then drain and fill?