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Maybe you misspoke but Castle states their pocket holes are 6 degrees, not 3 degrees as you stated in the video. Normal pocket holes, Kreg, etc. are 15 degrees...
I’ve NEVER heard of a Robertson (square drive) head screw referred to as a “Nicholson” head screw. Even google doesn’t know was a Nicholson head screw is. Is that something unique to a specific region of the US? Isn’t Nicholson an old early industrial era New England company known for making files?
I agree. Having used Square head screws for tons of years I have always referred to them and only heard them referred to as Robertson drive screws including from bulk screw suppliers.
Yup, there might be some people defending philips but they might as well be defending flat heads. One never goes back once they use torx or even Hex. Torx drives can even drive Hex.
I can't really think of one good thing to say about phillips heads. No idea why they still exist. They should really be extinct along with the flat head.
All of that because Mr Robertson didn't want to sell rights to Ford... And now the world is using a shitty screw that was originally designed for the driver to slip after a certain amount of torque :)
Great video with great info. Answered some questions I’ve had. Sorry you got jumped on so many times. I guess people don’t bother to read prior comments before sounding off. Makes me happy not to be a content creator but very glad some of you out there not only have more knowledge, but also thicker skins, than i do.
Forget about the one misspoken name ... this has got to be one of the most informative videos I've seen. I've had a few issues trying to get my pocket joints slick, and I think you've highlighted some really subtle things I'm not doing right. Spot on, well done, keep up the good work!
Man, that was a stressful 4 min. as I stopped the video on the description of THAT screw. Thanks guys to have this all worked out before I arrived. Whew! Thanks Stumpy Nubs for a great sense of humour (spelt Canadian style). I guess I should have assumed a good sense of humor when a Master Woodworker chooses his Internet name to be Stumpy Nubs.
I had no idea about high-low screws until watching this. I think I finally found an answer to not needing to buy a variety of different screws; this is a fantastic piece of knowledge. Seriously, thank you for this.
On Castle's website they now say :" NOTE: The #7 Coarse threaded pocket screw is now recommended in place of the #7 Hi-low thread for most common pocket joinery applications. The #7 Coarse-threaded is best suited for softwoods and hardwoods up to the hardness of Hickory as well as for melamine and plywood."
I so much appreciate that you explain the "why"s of what you show and choose. It helps me to think of factors I may not have thought about. Keep up the excellent videos!
Thank you for the pocket hole cnudrum. Now it is clear on what type of screws to use on what ever project your working on I always have a question in the back of my mind if I'm using the right srew for the project that I'm working on. Again thank you for your info videos!!!!!
Another great topic. Pocket hole joinery is a system I have been looking into, do you have a special skill to pick relevant topics? I'm not the only commenter with this coincidence (Farmer Jesse). As always, thank you for informative and relevant topics for all of us.
The man misspoke , he admitted it in comments. We can stop putting it in comments now. I read them cause sometimes there are smart ones. Let's get past it and focus on all the good stuff we learn.
Naw I guess , I just kind of scroll through comments sometimes a question I have is already answered , sometimes I learn a few things from people comments. I,m just a hobby woodworker that likes to learn new stuff. This channel has taught me a lot , he seems to read most the comments was just trying to keep him from having to read same thing over and over just a idea I had.
I build pocket hole furniture for a living and have driven many thousands of screws. I find the hi lows give me more problems in hardwood and plywood. I run fine and coarse thread screws only. All square bit.
Been using those for years. Work great. Use the proper screws, follow the chart for settings, use the proper screws, always do a test piece. Oh, and be real fussy about your screw bin. Never let a long screw into a shorter screw bin.!
Robertson screws are a Canadian invention and have been used here for many years. Once you have used one you’ll understand and never want to use a Phillips or Straight ..
I use a normal wood screw (with taper head for countersunk holes) and use a metal machine bolt washer on the wood screw. That washer gives the underside flat, and the taper of the head centers on the washer nice. Also The metal washer is plenty strong to withstand the spreading load of the taper head. So the flat underside is held. It may protrude more of the head as the head will be proud and appear loose when fully tighten against the metal washer but for a recessed or counter-bored hole it does not matter much.
@@StumpyNubs I live in eastern europe. Pocket holes are not a thing (hard to find anything related like jigs, drillbits, screws). So i made my own jig and use whatever screw i have around. Also I'm not a woodworker, but a general purpose handyman. Phd in automotive engineering (lecturer at Uni) and in the weekend i am a mechanic/constructor/welder/woodworker/electronist/chemist/etc. I like to repair and maintain my own stuff. Mainly because i don't trust random people to do a good work and clean so i do it myself. And is nice to learn new skills whenever i need something.
I recently got the castle 110 and used it for a large kitchen instead of the kreg. The castle screws are superior for hardwood face frames, however the threads do not work as well in plywood as kreg or even regular drywall screws.
Are you using an impact or a drill driver to install the screws? A drill driver with a moderate torgue setting should give you consistent results. You only need to compress the wood fibers on the sides of the screw just a bit to get a tight joint.
@@castleusa2792 I do recall having some issues with pocket screws (different jig) a few years back when we built some utility shelving with 5-layer construction grade plywood. That type of material crumbled when the screws were tightened because the thick end grain plies were fragile.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks for the reply. We use cabinet grade 3/4" maple plywood but I still think this may be the case. The threads going in 5/8" for hardwood face frames is plenty but the plywood layers just didn't have the holding power, I will probably change up the joinery for the next job to allow for more threads.
Looks good. Went to the site all keen to buy some screws. $102 postage to Australia. Oh well, at least they DO ship here. Most of the really cool stuff you recommend just doesn't. 😢
Bunnings have Kreg pocket hole screw kits if you are after those fillister type screws. They are self tapping too i think and they appear to be square drive.
I know you meant "Robertson" screws... but for the sake of levity, I call them "Canadian Screws" in my shop. Kinda on purpose as a joke, because I heard a rumor that every time you say his name out loud, he's supposed to get a royalty. A couple of Loonies per instance.
Wow! Very informative, I learnt a lot from todays video and some reminders of things I had forgotten. I think I'll be buying less Phillips head screws from now on. I used to think a screw was a screw until I started watching your channel, now I understand that different heads are there for a reason and I had never thought about or considered thread spacing. All made sense and was very easy to understand. Thanks
I never knew there was so much to learn about pocket holes and the screws, this was a butt kicking video (as always). I didn't know there was a high low screw either and I like that idea a lot! Thank you sir!
Watch your vids all the time and watched the wood working show you used to be on. I’m an electrician for over 30 yrs but have always had an appreciation for wood workers cabinet makers ect. I’d like to consider myself a serious wood working hobbiest and wanted to let you know I really do appreciate your videos and the time you spend thank you
The clamp @1:25 looks interesting. I've almost finished my first pocket hole project (a router cabinet) and I soon learned that stopping the timber moving as the screw is tightened was something that needed dealing with. I ordered one from Amazon right after watching this video.
Based on what I'm seeing, the Castle system doesn't cut the pocket at 3 or 6 degrees. Rather, the long axis of the screw itself is at the specified angle relative to the surface of the board, meaning the angle is set by the drill bit, not the router. It makes me wonder why not just use a 0 degree angle? If 3 or 6 is better than 15, wouldn't 0 be better still? Using a wobble head driver bit could compensate for the necessary angle of the driill.
Great video, as usual. Interesting to see those typical Kr-g silver screws (cheap and low-toleranced) side-by-side to those precise filister screws. I will definitely look into those for sure. I guess the Phillips is the "new" slot-head screw! Btw, has anyone ever seen the King of Queens episode where Arthur invents a new type of screw he names "the Arthur-head" ... "the tip of the screwdriver fits into the corresponding 'A-hole' on the screw". Hilarious!
Robertson screws were invented in Canada. Henry Ford wanted to license them to manufacture in the USA and Robertson would not do it. The square heads are far superior to Phillips heads.
@@sherriking7917 Next time you say effect when you should have said affect, I'll be sure to get all offended in behalf of my ancestor, Noah Webster. Take care.
I've found a variety of square drive pocket hole screw providers. Finding a variety of TORX head drive pocket hole screws seem to be a bit more challenging. Castle only had the "# 7, 1-1/2" Torx Hi-Low Pocket Screw". Does anyone have a good source for the Torx head pocket screws??
Ehm, maybe i missed a Part because im from Germany and my English is Not the best. To get a screw straight in a Hole but Turn it with a angel... Round allenkey .... Is the First i think about. (Next is a flexibel Bit holder and torx) The Bonus about allenkey is, If the get round and useles ... You can Hammer in a torx to extract the screw. MfG opo
Now how about if you are joining 1/2” to 3/4” stock at a 90 degree angle? Do you still use 1.25” long screws, or do you go to 1” long? Would you set your drill bit collar or drill depth to the setting you would use for 3/4” or 1/2” stock?
Castle doesn't appear to have a very wide variety of screws, I guess due to their adjustable depth? I can't find anyone but Kreg making stainless pocket screws, which is what I often need, so I remain pretty well stuck. Unfortunately they only make them in one length with fine threads.
Does anyone know of a jig, either commercial or on Etsy or elsewhere, to use my cheapo trim router and drill to try out the Castle-style system without having to pony up $450 to start? One of the reasons Kreg dominates the market is that they can offer a very inexpensive entry point... seems like Castle could make an inexpensive jig and sell close to cost, and make a fortune on the screws using the Gillette model, but hey, maybe it’s just me.
i seem to have issues with splitting when im joitning 1 1/2" face frames the pocket hole that screws into the edge of the face frame ( maple ) seems to almost always want to split, im using the right screws and the only solution ive found is to do drill a pilot hole on the holes that will be on the outside edges :( .
7+ minutes of excellence. 7+ minutes of very interesting information that helps so many people improve their carpenter game. 0.5 seconds spent accidentally naming a screw head type incorrectly. Guess which of these some, (too many, imho) focus on?
I always enjoy your videos! Any thoughts on the torque setting on the drill when driving the pocket hole screws? I recall, perhaps in an older Kreg video, they did strongly suggest a setting of 1 to prevent problems. That requires using a drill that has torque settings.
Are you using the fillister head screws with the machined low angle pocket holes because the bottom of the pocket isn't flat? Smaller head seats better on radius surface?
That is one reason, yes. The smaller size of the fillester head fits all types of pockets, but the larger washer head does not fit routed pockets as well.
Only thing you didnt mention is weather resistance, what material the screw should be made of for indoor vs outdoor projects. But your video is so awesome..you explain things really well
Am I the only one here thinking, "I am light years away from ever having this depth of knowledge when it comes to screws" ? lol I build cat trees and I buy two different screws in bulk: 1-1/4" deck screws and 2-1/2" deck screws. Apart from the occasional use of the brad nailer for specific tasks where screws may split the work (so glue and brad nails it is), and lag bolts for one of the tree designs (yeah, my trees DESTROY the pet store junk), that's all I need. If I ever up my game and start doing more serious projects, I'm going to need more screws. lol
G'day You might want to redefine the description of "self tapping" screw (about 2:10) You showed 2 types of "self tapping" screws and implied the screw without the flute was not a "self tapping" type. My understanding was the fluted style was to cut the wood fibres to try and reduce splitting of the timber. It can also extract some of the "Swarf" to allow room for the screw thread.
At date of posting 23/10/ 22. Castle appears to have discontinued the Hi-low screws and is offering coarse thread only, oh well. I'll give the 1 -1/4" #7 a try anyways, Kreg #7 size screws only go to 1"
I swear by pocket hole joinery, for a beginner woodworker it really opens up the scope of what is possible. And the joints are really strong when done correctly. Will I use pocket hole joinery in 5-10 years from now? Yes, even when I get better and am able to create more "authentic" joints, there's still places where pocket hole joinery makes a lot of sense. About screws? I just buy the Kreg stuff, not saying they're cheap, but I buy the blue ones which are mid range and in the end, in the grand scheme of things in woodworking there are other elements which start costing much more than pocket hole screws.
I've recently started using Spax screws with T20 head. Seems to work well but a problem I have is the pieces I use always seem to shift around. Any tips or resolution to prevent this?
I live in Germany and besides the UK. NO other country really seems to embrace pocket holes. That means anything that is designed for pocket holes must be imported. Between shipping and paying extra taxes on it. The cost can be more than double the cost of buying it in the States. Even the UK models I found online so far seem to me, more expensive and not as good as the States models. Plus not many kits available, so you have to pick each piece and hope you don't get distracted by some features and get non-compatible models. I was thinking of maybe learning rabbit joints instead. What do you think a hobbyist should do living in Germany?
I have only recently started using a pock hole jig, it's a wolf craft kit with jig, dowels and screws but the screws in the kit were just standard pozidrive countersunk screws which will try to pull through or split the wood if overtightened. I think that's poor for a tool manufacturer.
I just use decking screws such as GRK or similar copies. The counter sinking acts as a self centering locator and i 3D printed a guide to drill a pilot hole on side B based on the divot the pre-screwed screws make from side A.
I love the video. I just bought a starter kit of Kreg screws yesterday and was looking for good prices. It seems that, at least around here, Kreg screws are not the most expensive as I've constantly heard. Here at the local Lowes, the Kreg screws are about the same prices as those at Castle USA after adding shipping on the 1.25"/1000 count. In the per-100 packages, they are the lowest cost screws I found at Lowes. Someone mentioned the GRK and they are more expensive, but I think they are outdoor screws, so they should cost a little more. A friend of mine says he doesn't use the Kreg brand because he breaks the heads off way too often. I guess there are pros and cons to using the Kreg screws, too.
Americans are still so against using a Robertson's head screw (you can all thank Henry Ford for your century long obsession with the very substandard Phillip's head) that even when you do use or recommend them you can bear to call them by their right name.
I accidently called them by a popular brand name (Nicholson). My mistake. But Americans use Robertson screws frequently. You can buy them in any hardware store.
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@@ddnaveh I feel you didn't understand the theme of the video was about screws.
Maybe you misspoke but Castle states their pocket holes are 6 degrees, not 3 degrees as you stated in the video. Normal pocket holes, Kreg, etc. are 15 degrees...
@@ZeoCyberG - The Castle 110 cuts a 3-degree pocket. The larger TSM-12 cuts at 6-degrees. Both are much lower angles than are typical.
@@StumpyNubs So this is specific to the portable system and it requires cheese head torx screws?
@@ZeoCyberG I find those do work the best.
I’ve NEVER heard of a Robertson (square drive) head screw referred to as a “Nicholson” head screw. Even google doesn’t know was a Nicholson head screw is. Is that something unique to a specific region of the US? Isn’t Nicholson an old early industrial era New England company known for making files?
It would appear that he mis-spoke. He responded to another comment.
I agree. Having used Square head screws for tons of years I have always referred to them and only heard them referred to as Robertson drive screws including from bulk screw suppliers.
I misspoke. Now I get to hear about it a billion times. So much for the other seven minutes and two seconds of the video... LOL...
I’d love working with you in your shop. So much knowledge. Well done on your videos, always clear and well presented
A Robertson is a Canadian invention.... most American manufacturers don’t like paying Canadian royalties,,,that’s why torx was invented,,,,just saying
Good info that the average person wouldn’t even know to consider. Thanks again!
I agree!
I have never used Pocket Hole joinery before and I am looking for all the help I can get. Thanks for an informative tutorial.........
"philips head screws are a poor choice" that sentence can just end there and still be just as correct.
@@bobt2522 exactly. If you're using the right bit, and you Don't drive it in like an idiot, the bit locks in great
Yup, there might be some people defending philips but they might as well be defending flat heads. One never goes back once they use torx or even Hex. Torx drives can even drive Hex.
I can't really think of one good thing to say about phillips heads. No idea why they still exist. They should really be extinct along with the flat head.
@@bobt2522 Yeah if I see a Phillips screw my fist thought is, will it take a accept a square drive? Many do and is rather not mess with pozidrive.
All of that because Mr Robertson didn't want to sell rights to Ford... And now the world is using a shitty screw that was originally designed for the driver to slip after a certain amount of torque :)
Great video with great info. Answered some questions I’ve had. Sorry you got jumped on so many times. I guess people don’t bother to read prior comments before sounding off. Makes me happy not to be a content creator but very glad some of you out there not only have more knowledge, but also thicker skins, than i do.
Dude you are the king of video efficiency - LOVE these videos. No fluff, no meandering off on a tangent, just straight ahead information.
Forget about the one misspoken name ... this has got to be one of the most informative videos I've seen. I've had a few issues trying to get my pocket joints slick, and I think you've highlighted some really subtle things I'm not doing right. Spot on, well done, keep up the good work!
Man, that was a stressful 4 min. as I stopped the video on the description of THAT screw. Thanks guys to have this all worked out before I arrived. Whew! Thanks Stumpy Nubs for a great sense of humour (spelt Canadian style). I guess I should have assumed a good sense of humor when a Master Woodworker chooses his Internet name to be Stumpy Nubs.
Those machines looked great until I saw the price 😳. I’ll continue with my Kraig jigs.
Oh dude the Kreg jigs are awesome. I just got into woodworking and got the K4 - things a beaut!
9
Excellent video. Excellent explanation. Thanks for the info!
Poor stumpy nubs is getting a grilling over the screw type comment. Good video keep it up.
I had no idea about high-low screws until watching this. I think I finally found an answer to not needing to buy a variety of different screws; this is a fantastic piece of knowledge. Seriously, thank you for this.
On Castle's website they now say :" NOTE: The #7 Coarse threaded pocket screw is now recommended in place of the #7 Hi-low thread for most common pocket joinery applications. The #7 Coarse-threaded is best suited for softwoods and hardwoods up to the hardness of Hickory as well as for melamine and plywood."
Well presented.
I so much appreciate that you explain the "why"s of what you show and choose. It helps me to think of factors I may not have thought about. Keep up the excellent videos!
Thank you for the pocket hole cnudrum. Now it is clear on what type of screws to use on what ever project your working on I always have a question in the back of my mind if I'm using the right srew for the project that I'm working on. Again thank you for your info videos!!!!!
Another great topic. Pocket hole joinery is a system I have been looking into, do you have a special skill to pick relevant topics? I'm not the only commenter with this coincidence (Farmer Jesse). As always, thank you for informative and relevant topics for all of us.
How do you always post videos with content that are relevant to me with my upcoming work? Unreal, I always look forward to your videos
I used SPAX screws for pocket holes
The man misspoke , he admitted it in comments. We can stop putting it in comments now. I read them cause sometimes there are smart ones. Let's get past it and focus on all the good stuff we learn.
But that means I need to read ALL the comments before I post one? Does anyone do that?
Naw I guess , I just kind of scroll through comments sometimes a question I have is already answered , sometimes I learn a few things from people comments. I,m just a hobby woodworker that likes to learn new stuff. This channel has taught me a lot , he seems to read most the comments was just trying to keep him from having to read same thing over and over just a idea I had.
I build pocket hole furniture for a living and have driven many thousands of screws. I find the hi lows give me more problems in hardwood and plywood. I run fine and coarse thread screws only. All square bit.
Square head screws are called Robertson drives.
Been using those for years. Work great. Use the proper screws, follow the chart for settings, use the proper screws, always do a test piece. Oh, and be real fussy about your screw bin. Never let a long screw into a shorter screw bin.!
Robertson screws are a Canadian invention and have been used here for many years. Once you have used one you’ll understand and never want to use a Phillips or Straight ..
I use a normal wood screw (with taper head for countersunk holes) and use a metal machine bolt washer on the wood screw. That washer gives the underside flat, and the taper of the head centers on the washer nice. Also The metal washer is plenty strong to withstand the spreading load of the taper head. So the flat underside is held. It may protrude more of the head as the head will be proud and appear loose when fully tighten against the metal washer but for a recessed or counter-bored hole it does not matter much.
May I ask why? Proper pocket screws aren't expensive.
@@StumpyNubs I live in eastern europe. Pocket holes are not a thing (hard to find anything related like jigs, drillbits, screws). So i made my own jig and use whatever screw i have around.
Also I'm not a woodworker, but a general purpose handyman. Phd in automotive engineering (lecturer at Uni) and in the weekend i am a mechanic/constructor/welder/woodworker/electronist/chemist/etc. I like to repair and maintain my own stuff. Mainly because i don't trust random people to do a good work and clean so i do it myself. And is nice to learn new skills whenever i need something.
How do you preload a screw?
Have a video for that one?
I recently got the castle 110 and used it for a large kitchen instead of the kreg. The castle screws are superior for hardwood face frames, however the threads do not work as well in plywood as kreg or even regular drywall screws.
That's strange. We use them in plywood quite often and they work very well.
Are you using an impact or a drill driver to install the screws? A drill driver with a moderate torgue setting should give you consistent results. You only need to compress the wood fibers on the sides of the screw just a bit to get a tight joint.
@@castleusa2792 I do recall having some issues with pocket screws (different jig) a few years back when we built some utility shelving with 5-layer construction grade plywood. That type of material crumbled when the screws were tightened because the thick end grain plies were fragile.
@@castleusa2792 I tried with both, but will definitely play around with the drill settings for driving screws.
@@StumpyNubs Thanks for the reply. We use cabinet grade 3/4" maple plywood but I still think this may be the case. The threads going in 5/8" for hardwood face frames is plenty but the plywood layers just didn't have the holding power, I will probably change up the joinery for the next job to allow for more threads.
Looks good. Went to the site all keen to buy some screws. $102 postage to Australia. Oh well, at least they DO ship here. Most of the really cool stuff you recommend just doesn't. 😢
Bunnings have Kreg pocket hole screw kits if you are after those fillister type screws. They are self tapping too i think and they appear to be square drive.
@@psyk3r863 🙂 thanks! I was hoping for something better than Kreg. They're expensive, and I've had problems with them.
It is called Robertson.
The best Anti-tamper screw is a phillips head screw that I've installed. Stripped so bad that no one can get it out.
I know you meant "Robertson" screws... but for the sake of levity, I call them "Canadian Screws" in my shop. Kinda on purpose as a joke, because I heard a rumor that every time you say his name out loud, he's supposed to get a royalty. A couple of Loonies per instance.
Always love when a new Stumpy drops!
( 👁 ͜ʖ👁)
Wow! Very informative, I learnt a lot from todays video and some reminders of things I had forgotten. I think I'll be buying less Phillips head screws from now on. I used to think a screw was a screw until I started watching your channel, now I understand that different heads are there for a reason and I had never thought about or considered thread spacing. All made sense and was very easy to understand. Thanks
Great info.... also great to see your videos .... great information all the time
I've never heard the square drive called Nicholson.but
Perhaps it's a Canadian thing that we've always called them Robertson.
I misspoke. Nicholson is a screwdriver brand, Robertson is a type. Simply mistake.
Roberson drives are one Canadian thing I wish the US would normalize... It's the only reason I don't use the more
This may sound dumb but will the screws from Castle work with the Kreg jig?
Kinda, but it's easy to sink the smaller head in too far with softer materials. Regular drywall or wood screws work with both kreg and castle holes.
Jeff…for the best possible results stick with the Kreg screws, they are engineered to work in the Kreg drilled pocket holes.
The square head robertson's screws are great but come on manufacturers why do you need to charge so much.
They do it to screw with us.
Come to Canada, they're cheaper here.
@@dhammer5645 Screws are at the bottom of my list of why I would love to go to Canada.
@@alphafert608 just bring some beer, bbq and come on up. Oh don't forget to bring your woolies, depending on how long your staying.😜
I never knew there was so much to learn about pocket holes and the screws, this was a butt kicking video (as always). I didn't know there was a high low screw either and I like that idea a lot! Thank you sir!
Watch your vids all the time and watched the wood working show you used to be on. I’m an electrician for over 30 yrs but have always had an appreciation for wood workers cabinet makers ect. I’d like to consider myself a serious wood working hobbiest and wanted to let you know I really do appreciate your videos and the time you spend thank you
The clamp @1:25 looks interesting. I've almost finished my first pocket hole project (a router cabinet) and I soon learned that stopping the timber moving as the screw is tightened was something that needed dealing with. I ordered one from Amazon right after watching this video.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Can't you call a square head screw by its proper name "Robertson"?
I misspoke. Taker 'er easy.
Ok I'm confused a square head screw is a Canadian design and it called a Robertson head screw
I misspoke. It's been pointed out a million times already in the comments.
Based on what I'm seeing, the Castle system doesn't cut the pocket at 3 or 6 degrees. Rather, the long axis of the screw itself is at the specified angle relative to the surface of the board, meaning the angle is set by the drill bit, not the router. It makes me wonder why not just use a 0 degree angle? If 3 or 6 is better than 15, wouldn't 0 be better still? Using a wobble head driver bit could compensate for the necessary angle of the driill.
Great video, as usual. Interesting to see those typical Kr-g silver screws (cheap and low-toleranced) side-by-side to those precise filister screws. I will definitely look into those for sure.
I guess the Phillips is the "new" slot-head screw!
Btw, has anyone ever seen the King of Queens episode where Arthur invents a new type of screw he names "the Arthur-head" ... "the tip of the screwdriver fits into the corresponding 'A-hole' on the screw". Hilarious!
Huhh. I last time used philips head trumpet screws in melamine coated particle board
I believe it's called a Robertson drive when referring to a square head fastener
Yes, I misspoke
Robertson screws were invented in Canada. Henry Ford wanted to license them to manufacture in the USA and Robertson would not do it. The square heads are far superior to Phillips heads.
Square heads? Where im from we call em quad sides.
Please !!! The square drive are Robertson, and a Canadian invention Give credit where credit is due ! Thanks
Best screw design out there
I merely misspoke. Don't take it so personally. It happens.
@@StumpyNubs I do take it a bit as he was one of my ancestors and most Americans do not like to acknowledge how advanced it was. Take care
@@sherriking7917 Next time you say effect when you should have said affect, I'll be sure to get all offended in behalf of my ancestor, Noah Webster. Take care.
@@StumpyNubs HHmmmmmmm, looking for affect as opposed to effect ROFL
I've found a variety of square drive pocket hole screw providers. Finding a variety of TORX head drive pocket hole screws seem to be a bit more challenging. Castle only had the "# 7, 1-1/2" Torx Hi-Low Pocket Screw". Does anyone have a good source for the Torx head pocket screws??
wow I learned a lot about pocket screws that I only have used a few times
Ehm, maybe i missed a Part because im from Germany and my English is Not the best.
To get a screw straight in a Hole but Turn it with a angel... Round allenkey .... Is the First i think about.
(Next is a flexibel Bit holder and torx)
The Bonus about allenkey is, If the get round and useles ... You can Hammer in a torx to extract the screw.
MfG opo
Now how about if you are joining 1/2” to 3/4” stock at a 90 degree angle? Do you still use 1.25” long screws, or do you go to 1” long? Would you set your drill bit collar or drill depth to the setting you would use for 3/4” or 1/2” stock?
As always, an informative video. And well shot.
Much prefer you without the beard!
I thought the square head was called Robertson. Where'd Nicholson come from
Would 3/4 inch Radiata Pine Plywood work well for cabinets using pocket hole joints?
May I ask what the benefits are of the 3deg shallow pockets are? Here in the uk I can only buy 15 degree jigs.
Less drift when assembling the joint. And the screw is more centered in the piece that receives the point.
Castle doesn't appear to have a very wide variety of screws, I guess due to their adjustable depth? I can't find anyone but Kreg making stainless pocket screws, which is what I often need, so I remain pretty well stuck. Unfortunately they only make them in one length with fine threads.
Does anyone know of a jig, either commercial or on Etsy or elsewhere, to use my cheapo trim router and drill to try out the Castle-style system without having to pony up $450 to start? One of the reasons Kreg dominates the market is that they can offer a very inexpensive entry point... seems like Castle could make an inexpensive jig and sell close to cost, and make a fortune on the screws using the Gillette model, but hey, maybe it’s just me.
Man, that was beautiful. I can't believe that. I want you on the Board of Directors.
3:51 did you mean Robinson screw head? I never heard of Nicholson's square head.
Square drive all the way. 👍🏻
They don't carry 1" screws for 1/2" wood using.
3:50 “Nickelson” square shaped screw head?
I misspoke. Nicholson is a common screwdriver brand. Robertson is the inventor of the modern square drive.
i seem to have issues with splitting when im joitning 1 1/2" face frames the pocket hole that screws into the edge of the face frame ( maple ) seems to almost always want to split, im using the right screws and the only solution ive found is to do drill a pilot hole on the holes that will be on the outside edges :( .
I know you can purchase plugs for Castle pocket hole machines, but can you make your own easily?
7+ minutes of excellence. 7+ minutes of very interesting information that helps so many people improve their carpenter game.
0.5 seconds spent accidentally naming a screw head type incorrectly.
Guess which of these some, (too many, imho) focus on?
Yes, one misspeak costs you BIG on the internet because people LOVE to correct you :)
Thanks for all your great videos.
Walt Sommers
Errrrrr.... Canadians everywhere are horrified. 3:51 Come on Stumpy.
Philips and flat heads are poor choices for every application. Except if the flat head is for decoration. And where do you get your wood from?
The store.
We don't have square screw heads here in the UK. It's either straight slot or phillips head.
Robertson square drive head, not Nicholsen.
Edited: my bad, my question was asked and answered already, sorry.
I always enjoy your videos! Any thoughts on the torque setting on the drill when driving the pocket hole screws? I recall, perhaps in an older Kreg video, they did strongly suggest a setting of 1 to prevent problems. That requires using a drill that has torque settings.
Do you mean torque or speed setting? I do drive square head bits at a lower torque, but 1 would be awfully low
Unless you have money to burn buy another brand, my table saw cost less than what they want for this brand.
Go Wings! Is that a Vernors Ginger Ale you are drinking there?
Are you using the fillister head screws with the machined low angle pocket holes because the bottom of the pocket isn't flat? Smaller head seats better on radius surface?
That is one reason, yes. The smaller size of the fillester head fits all types of pockets, but the larger washer head does not fit routed pockets as well.
This has been interesting, I've been considering getting a Safety speed pocket hole machine and wasn't sure what to use going from kreg.
Robertson!!! Robertson!!! Gaaahhhh!!! (Sarcasm qued by your Twitter comment, 😆)
Only thing you didnt mention is weather resistance, what material the screw should be made of for indoor vs outdoor projects. But your video is so awesome..you explain things really well
Very informative and convincing and always - thanks @StumpyNubs!
Great lesson for me. Thank you very much.
Am I the only one here thinking, "I am light years away from ever having this depth of knowledge when it comes to screws" ? lol
I build cat trees and I buy two different screws in bulk: 1-1/4" deck screws and 2-1/2" deck screws. Apart from the occasional use of the brad nailer for specific tasks where screws may split the work (so glue and brad nails it is), and lag bolts for one of the tree designs (yeah, my trees DESTROY the pet store junk), that's all I need.
If I ever up my game and start doing more serious projects, I'm going to need more screws. lol
G'day You might want to redefine the description of "self tapping" screw (about 2:10) You showed 2 types of "self tapping" screws and implied the screw without the flute was not a "self tapping" type. My understanding was the fluted style was to cut the wood fibres to try and reduce splitting of the timber. It can also extract some of the "Swarf" to allow room for the screw thread.
Awesome tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
I still need to get a pocket hole jig... But the tips are noted! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
At date of posting 23/10/ 22. Castle appears to have discontinued the Hi-low screws and is offering coarse thread only, oh well. I'll give the 1 -1/4" #7 a try anyways, Kreg #7 size screws only go to 1"
I doubt they are discontinued. If they are out of stock I am sure it's a supply chain issue like has been affecting pretty much everyone else.
I swear by pocket hole joinery, for a beginner woodworker it really opens up the scope of what is possible. And the joints are really strong when done correctly.
Will I use pocket hole joinery in 5-10 years from now? Yes, even when I get better and am able to create more "authentic" joints, there's still places where pocket hole joinery makes a lot of sense.
About screws? I just buy the Kreg stuff, not saying they're cheap, but I buy the blue ones which are mid range and in the end, in the grand scheme of things in woodworking there are other elements which start costing much more than pocket hole screws.
I've recently started using Spax screws with T20 head. Seems to work well but a problem I have is the pieces I use always seem to shift around. Any tips or resolution to prevent this?
Did you just call a Robertson head a "Nicholson square shaped head"?... No... Robertson
Asked and answered may times in the comments already.
I live in Germany and besides the UK. NO other country really seems to embrace pocket holes.
That means anything that is designed for pocket holes must be imported. Between shipping and paying extra taxes on it. The cost can be more than double the cost of buying it in the States.
Even the UK models I found online so far seem to me, more expensive and not as good as the States models. Plus not many kits available, so you have to pick each piece and hope you don't get distracted by some features and get non-compatible models.
I was thinking of maybe learning rabbit joints instead.
What do you think a hobbyist should do living in Germany?
Maybe consider moving to Canada 🇨🇦
Great information James, thanks for sharing with us. Fred.🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋
I have only recently started using a pock hole jig, it's a wolf craft kit with jig, dowels and screws but the screws in the kit were just standard pozidrive countersunk screws which will try to pull through or split the wood if overtightened. I think that's poor for a tool manufacturer.
I just use decking screws such as GRK or similar copies. The counter sinking acts as a self centering locator and i 3D printed a guide to drill a pilot hole on side B based on the divot the pre-screwed screws make from side A.
You called the one screw nickelson, ive known them as robertson , am I wrong or does it even matter?
I misspoke.
I love the video. I just bought a starter kit of Kreg screws yesterday and was looking for good prices. It seems that, at least around here, Kreg screws are not the most expensive as I've constantly heard.
Here at the local Lowes, the Kreg screws are about the same prices as those at Castle USA after adding shipping on the 1.25"/1000 count. In the per-100 packages, they are the lowest cost screws I found at Lowes.
Someone mentioned the GRK and they are more expensive, but I think they are outdoor screws, so they should cost a little more.
A friend of mine says he doesn't use the Kreg brand because he breaks the heads off way too often.
I guess there are pros and cons to using the Kreg screws, too.
Thanks for this info. And also, for simply giving out information concisely without trying to do standup!
I live in Belgium (Europe). Can you buy your favorite pocket screw somewhere in Europe?
I described the features I like, you may find another brand local to you that includes those features.
Thanks for the great video James 👍 Lots of excellent information 👍 😀
Americans are still so against using a Robertson's head screw (you can all thank Henry Ford for your century long obsession with the very substandard Phillip's head) that even when you do use or recommend them you can bear to call them by their right name.
I accidently called them by a popular brand name (Nicholson). My mistake. But Americans use Robertson screws frequently. You can buy them in any hardware store.
Great tutorial. Covered all my questions plus the one about using glue. Thanks!