Good stuff. I cannot stress how important it is to torque the 4 bolts that attach the cooler to housing. They can be easily stripped. Great job! Thank you for the video! 👍
Great example for this job. Thanks. My 06 530xi n52 has this same cooler. Snap on tools 1/4 drive E10 swivel socket is a nice tool if you don`t want to disturb the intake manifold. I replaced the knock sensor too, without removing intake. but I did take out the alternator for this job. The filter housing, and alt needed a major clean up anyway. 255k miles here. Tools make the difference.
Great video. I appreciate the details of how to get to each bolt and the sequence. Makes me feel sorry for the folks trying to get that small filter housing bolt off first, doing it your way was pretty easy, except when I dropped my socket and had to fish it out. Thanks again.
The problem with using the 12-point ratchet on the E-torx bolt head is that it easily strips the bolt head and makes it much tougher to remove. Much, much tougher. Hours of tougher. If that bolt head gets stripped, your estimated 90-minute hour gasket replacement job becomes quite an ordeal, given how already-difficult it is in the first place to reach that bolt and get leverage on it. So, when you get to the point that you’re about to remove that small bolt, first disconnect and move aside the cylinder head temperature sensor and the hose just beneath that sensor. These are located at the front of the engine, just to the left of the OFH. When you pull the sensor clip, do it **carefully** as the clip can fly away, it’s not secured around the sensor. The adjacent coolant hose is attached to the engine via two simple 8mm bolts; just be firm but always gentle when pulling any hose. With these out of the way, you can fit a proper ratchet wrench with E-torx socket onto that very soft bolt head and avoid stripping it.
Thanks! I've been trying a few graphics to see what people like. Looks like I'll be sticking with this set. As far as the valve cover goes, once it starts to show signs of wear we'll make a video. For now it's holding up fine 🤞
That engine is going to go kaboom if it hasn't already. You didn't pull the fuel injector wiring so that it doesn't fire up. You MUST prime the system with oil and purge it of any air you just trapped in there when you put it all back together... How do so many people not understand this??
Can you do a video on B38/48/58 series engine oil filter housing change? There is an upgraded aluminum set and there might be a lot of folks interested. You're the best! Thanks a lot!
nice. for the filter housing, wouldn't have been advantageous to replace it with a much more nicer looking one like that I have in my N20? than it would have been easier to work on next time when doing oil change etc. just a thought.
Thanks man! I agree with you, but if cost is a major factor then this is the way to go. This also isn't my car. 😅 Always good to hear from you my friend, wishing you all the best for the holidays. 🎄
I watch your videos often and I have a 2011 x3 35i however I was having several overheating issues. I done the thermostat which looked good when pulled out. Then I did the radiator and water pump. It’s doesn’t overheat at all but runs like around 240* never over just very concerned still around that temperature
Grateful video lm have a question do you need to purge a antifreeze system l see videos if do you not due damage de engine damage l have a 2014 BMW X5 xdrive35i any help my thanks
any tips for doing this on an N55 135i I don’t think the oil cooler is attached to the housing and would like to know if I need to do anything differently
Nice video, but unfortunately you missed the extremely important step of priming the oil pump and oil supply system. BMW has instructions for this. With no priming, there is an increased risk of total engine failure after startup.
Thanks for pointing that out. In this case (reusing the filter and no oil change) adding some oil through the housing and allowing it to pass through would be fine. You could also pull the fuse and allow it to prime.
@@FritzRamos Perhaps it would be fine. However, I would still follow BMW's service bulletin on this matter. It suggests that priming is required whenever oil supply circuit is interrupted. BMW suggests to remove fuel injector connectors, then run the starter for 3x 10 seconds with 20 second pauses in between.
Not needed in this case. Otherwise, you'll be doing it every time you do an oil change. If you're replacing main components (pump, housing, cooler, etc.) then it's advised to follow the correct procedure since replacement parts are completely dry. Keep in mind that the oil pump in this case is already "primed", more so since the oil was never completely drained. Anyways, to each their own.
@David Hoang I was thinking the same thing. It shouldn't need to be prime every time all you filter is placed. That is not major part replacement that has large amounts of oil loss
Take extra care not to drop nuts when removing intake manifold... They fall into the shadow realm, never to be seen again and are a very odd M7 pitch, so (at least where I live) no one carries them!
Hi Fritz. I am getting ready to do an oil pan gasket replacement on this same car, 2014 BMW X3, N55 3.0 liter and I would like to know which Bolts are NOT included in the bolt replacement kit commonly used for the repair. My understanding is that 2 additional bolts are needed, but which ones?
Do the bolts need to be replaced with new ones (i.e. are they a one-time use), or can they be reused? I see some gasket kits that come with new bolts, so I am wonder if they are single use. I have this same leaky gasket issue with my N55 so I am about to order parts and want to make sure I get everything I need. Thanks for the detailed walk-through.
Yes you will have to buy new bolts and torque them to spec, BE CAREFUL with unscrewing and screwing the bottom screw, I've accidentally stripped the threading into the housing and so have other people. Don't forget to prime the engine afterwards once the work is complete.
no unless the n55 has different bolts. My kit for the n52 came with bolts so I changed them but both sets weren't aluminum bolts so they should be good.
@@FritzRamos engine air filter adapter plus the cooler seal not sure the thermostat wasn't on the bill. I got it done at a local independent in Denver called Auto Imports
there's plenty of good tutorials on youtube regarding this topic.... but this has to be the best informative video yet. Loving your work!
Thank you. That means a lot. 🙏 You're right, there are definitely a bunch of good videos on this topic.
That’s the first thing I said
Still using this video in 2024 for my F10 with N55. It has the bolt specs and nm you need when putting things back together. Thank you Fritz
Good stuff. I cannot stress how important it is to torque the 4 bolts that attach the cooler to housing. They can be easily stripped. Great job! Thank you for the video! 👍
I’ve been watching a couple of tutorials on this job and I gotta say this is by far the easiest/simplest walk through thank you 🙏🏼
Great example for this job. Thanks. My 06 530xi n52 has this same cooler. Snap on tools 1/4 drive E10 swivel socket is a nice tool if you don`t want to disturb the intake manifold. I replaced the knock sensor too, without removing intake. but I did take out the alternator for this job. The filter housing, and alt needed a major clean up anyway. 255k miles here. Tools make the difference.
Great video. I appreciate the details of how to get to each bolt and the sequence. Makes me feel sorry for the folks trying to get that small filter housing bolt off first, doing it your way was pretty easy, except when I dropped my socket and had to fish it out. Thanks again.
Thank you for that. Don't worry the socket drop is something we all struggle with 😆
The problem with using the 12-point ratchet on the E-torx bolt head is that it easily strips the bolt head and makes it much tougher to remove. Much, much tougher. Hours of tougher. If that bolt head gets stripped, your estimated 90-minute hour gasket replacement job becomes quite an ordeal, given how already-difficult it is in the first place to reach that bolt and get leverage on it.
So, when you get to the point that you’re about to remove that small bolt, first disconnect and move aside the cylinder head temperature sensor and the hose just beneath that sensor. These are located at the front of the engine, just to the left of the OFH.
When you pull the sensor clip, do it **carefully** as the clip can fly away, it’s not secured around the sensor. The adjacent coolant hose is attached to the engine via two simple 8mm bolts; just be firm but always gentle when pulling any hose.
With these out of the way, you can fit a proper ratchet wrench with E-torx socket onto that very soft bolt head and avoid stripping it.
Thank you so much for the information I don’t know why the likes don’t match the views I like how you explain and don’t even skip a step 🙏
Amazing video again and the bolt torque visuals are the best, maybe Valve cover gasket next? 👀
Thanks! I've been trying a few graphics to see what people like. Looks like I'll be sticking with this set. As far as the valve cover goes, once it starts to show signs of wear we'll make a video. For now it's holding up fine 🤞
That engine is going to go kaboom if it hasn't already. You didn't pull the fuel injector wiring so that it doesn't fire up. You MUST prime the system with oil and purge it of any air you just trapped in there when you put it all back together...
How do so many people not understand this??
Older vid but please ensure you take the extra step to prime the oil system after everything is buttoned back up.
Jealous that you don’t have to remove your fan to get to that short bolt on the bottom. Thanks for the great walkthrough!
Another informative video from mr Fritz thanks bro!!!
Thanks for the support, glad you found it helpful
Can you do a video on B38/48/58 series engine oil filter housing change? There is an upgraded aluminum set and there might be a lot of folks interested. You're the best! Thanks a lot!
best one on this I've seen!
nice. for the filter housing, wouldn't have been advantageous to replace it with a much more nicer looking one like that I have in my N20? than it would have been easier to work on next time when doing oil change etc. just a thought.
Thanks man! I agree with you, but if cost is a major factor then this is the way to go. This also isn't my car. 😅 Always good to hear from you my friend, wishing you all the best for the holidays. 🎄
@@FritzRamos Happy holidays to you as well, my friends.
Great video my friend! Super detailed and informative 👍
Thanks. I see you upgraded 👍
@@FritzRamos mosselman thermostat from Kies for the win 🔥
Thank you for making this awesome, very informative video
Using the 8mm on the small bolt stripped the head. It is torx same as the others on the 2014 x3
I watch your videos often and I have a 2011 x3 35i however I was having several overheating issues. I done the thermostat which looked good when pulled out. Then I did the radiator and water pump. It’s doesn’t overheat at all but runs like around 240* never over just very concerned still around that temperature
Test the water pump. Make sure coolant is flowing. Make sure your radiator fan is operating.
Great video !! very well explained
Grateful video lm have a question do you need to purge a antifreeze system l see videos if do you not due damage de engine damage l have a 2014 BMW X5 xdrive35i any help my thanks
It's not a bad idea and doesn't hurt even if you don't 'need' it.
any tips for doing this on an N55 135i I don’t think the oil cooler is attached to the housing and would like to know if I need to do anything differently
not one that looks like yours at least
Here's another example th-cam.com/video/bPcgCiaHFPg/w-d-xo.html
Hey Fritz, I have to replace my oil filter housing gasket, too. Is it recommended to replace the intake manifold gaskets as well?
^
If you remove your intake manifold completely then have your valves walnut blasted then replace all 6 gaskets.
Do you not replace the intake manifold gaskets? I'd think if you're breaking that seal it'd be a good idea to reapply a new one.
Nice video, but unfortunately you missed the extremely important step of priming the oil pump and oil supply system. BMW has instructions for this. With no priming, there is an increased risk of total engine failure after startup.
Thanks for pointing that out. In this case (reusing the filter and no oil change) adding some oil through the housing and allowing it to pass through would be fine. You could also pull the fuse and allow it to prime.
@@FritzRamos Perhaps it would be fine. However, I would still follow BMW's service bulletin on this matter. It suggests that priming is required whenever oil supply circuit is interrupted. BMW suggests to remove fuel injector connectors, then run the starter for 3x 10 seconds with 20 second pauses in between.
@@jkoljonen All good points. As you said, you could pull the fuel injector connection in place of the fuse that controls them.
Not needed in this case. Otherwise, you'll be doing it every time you do an oil change. If you're replacing main components (pump, housing, cooler, etc.) then it's advised to follow the correct procedure since replacement parts are completely dry.
Keep in mind that the oil pump in this case is already "primed", more so since the oil was never completely drained. Anyways, to each their own.
@David Hoang I was thinking the same thing. It shouldn't need to be prime every time all you filter is placed. That is not major part replacement that has large amounts of oil loss
You should’ve included the priming of the oil circuit. Great video nonetheless.
Will do in the next video. Thanks
Thanks for your video!
Okay, actual question: Would it be worth removing the fan shroud for this?
I wouldn't
What about bleeding the coolant?
You need to prime to engine as well
Take extra care not to drop nuts when removing intake manifold... They fall into the shadow realm, never to be seen again and are a very odd M7 pitch, so (at least where I live) no one carries them!
The shadow realm! 🤣
Hi Fritz. I am getting ready to do an oil pan gasket replacement on this same car, 2014 BMW X3, N55 3.0 liter and I would like to know which Bolts are NOT included in the bolt replacement kit commonly used for the repair. My understanding is that 2 additional bolts are needed, but which ones?
That 8mm rachet for bottom bolt is just normal 8mm socket or E socket?
I have a 2013 535i. I removed 2 bolts and 4 nuts from the intake manifold and it won't budge. What am I missing?
another nut? in multiple vids I have seen a count of 7 total.
Once you've done this. Clean your MAF sensor and replace the oil filter.
Did have to drain the oil tondo this job? TIA
So it’s recommended that you drain all the oil?
You don't have to. It wasn't in this video. If you do, just prime it from the oil filter housing
HOW ABOUT GETTING THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM? SHOULDN'T THAT PROCESS BE DONE ALSO
Do the bolts need to be replaced with new ones (i.e. are they a one-time use), or can they be reused? I see some gasket kits that come with new bolts, so I am wonder if they are single use. I have this same leaky gasket issue with my N55 so I am about to order parts and want to make sure I get everything I need. Thanks for the detailed walk-through.
Yes you will have to buy new bolts and torque them to spec, BE CAREFUL with unscrewing and screwing the bottom screw, I've accidentally stripped the threading into the housing and so have other people. Don't forget to prime the engine afterwards once the work is complete.
no unless the n55 has different bolts. My kit for the n52 came with bolts so I changed them but both sets weren't aluminum bolts so they should be good.
7:59 The screws are 11mm and not 10mm
For oil priming, you can just remove the fuel pump fuse per the updated BMW TSB static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10151166-9999.pdf
@0.29 is that a brick of cocaine? I called FCP Euro and they don't have any in stock. Can I use meth instead?
😏
Crazy how this job would be a $1000+ at a shop
1000! Really?!
$1,200 at the dealer
60k mile service $2,200
I was quoted $1,600... smh
I get quote part and labor $450 for oil filter gasket
Surely this is the same on most n55s
Just a slight difference in intake and hose connections
th-cam.com/video/bPcgCiaHFPg/w-d-xo.html
just paid $775.24 parts and labor.
2012 BMW 528I
Did you upgrade the thermostat?
@@FritzRamos engine air filter adapter plus the cooler seal not sure the thermostat wasn't on the bill. I got it done at a local independent in Denver called Auto Imports
I wonder would it hurt or help to add a lil locking grease ? @fritzramos