As an upgrade I think I would put in some pluggable connections inbetween the leaves so if one were to need reconfigure the shape then the leaves are easier to plug into one another.
I am, consistently astounded at this point by, the quality of your designs, the quality of your instructions, the quality of your videos, lighting, audio. All of it. Sir you, are absolutely spot on spec, each and every time. I haven't built anything new in awhile, partly funds and partly, been looking for my next effort. This one is it and WOW the PRICE is SO MUCH BETTER! I get to use my newly acquired 3d printer skills (gained over the last pandemic year) along with hardware and software building / configuring (gave me some ideas for customizations, etc...). Extremely excited when I got home a little while ago and saw this on my home page from you. Thank you. I'll close with, always a great attitude and your joy of the build always shines through. You are a pleasure sir and are hands down my favorite maker in YT land/everywhere. I put your work up there with Makers Muse, CNC Kitchen, 3D Printing Nerd, and all the others that shine at the top of their trade. Looking forward to seeing your channel grow to a million subscribers. KEEP IT UP AND THANK YOU!!!!!
I've just found your channel, and I'm really impressed by how economical your descriptions and editing are - sufficiently thorough to convey all that is important and nothing more. Too often skip I fast forward to progress through static, but with your production I watched every moment of it.
OMG! finally i wanted to make these but all the tutorials were not good enough but then i got the notification ,i was soo happy cant wait to make my own
Wow! I‘m speechless 😶! What a solid construction and beautiful design! I also love these little stop motion scenes, which are so time consuming to produce. Although I‘m not a native English speaker, I can understand Your instructions very well and will try to build my own nanoleave lights. Thank you 🙏 so much!
Thank you so much 😀 I'm glad you enjoyed the stop motion. It's the first time I've used it on the channel and you're right - it's not quick to do! I think I will use it in future videos though.
You are so welcome! Tag me on an Instagram photo (@diy_machines) or send a photo via Facebook (facebook.com/diymachines) and I'll add it to a new page I'm adding on my site showing people's own builds. No worries if you'd rather, I hope ou enjoy what you made either way. 🙂
looks amazing, i'm currently printing mine. just a quick tip, the A4 sheets give 3 Triangles, i only got A3 sheets, but from an A3 sheet you could get 9 Triangles!
love this project, i have printed the walls, base & control box but i printed the acrylic reference shape 3mm height with white pla+ and it looks like opaque acrylic, so i printed another at only 1.5mm high and it looks pretty good ( lets light from a led torch through) , waiting until my leds arrive before i commit to printing all the panels in PLA+ not acrylic
@@YouDyZ yes it’s on the bedroom wall and set up with voice commands via Alexa, printed the panels in white pla+ but only 1.5mm thick and they work great
@@gilesh3895 hi, I tried a few thicknesses but prefer only 1.5mm and it works fantastic this is a great project, I have also made two lightsabers using the same controllers but with 5volt leds so no need for other components
Thank good you used WLED and custom esp controller! It’s a legitimate build. Most creators use stupid off the shelf Chinese Bluetooth led strips from a box store. Awesome build!
I probably would print it with white filament and design it in such a way that you only need one part per panel. Also WS LEDs with integrated controller would be better. Also the inner circumference should be designed that the LED strip lays down fully and there is no component right on the bend, you also want some sort of hooks to pin down the LED strip because the double-sided glue on these tends to fail.
I was able to reproduce this using your stl files and the pcb from PCBWay, it works great, thank you! The only problem I am having is the 10 cm connector wires between the triangles at times are almost too short. I have one connection that constantly works its way loose, causing all the triangles after it to blink and flash erratically. I have reassembled the connections a few times, but so far the problem continues. I need to take it down again to figure out a permanent fix for one pesky connection. Other than that I really enjoyed this project.
You're very welcome. You're also right that sometimes (rarely) one of the wires connectors can be little tight depending on your layout. Have you considered soldering three wires directly between the pads of the troublesome connection?
@@DIYMachines Thank you for the reply. Yes, just yesterday I had the thought that I may need to actually solder a few of the connections rather than rely on the connectors.
Hi, a very nice design, thanks for the video. I used it as a basis to do my own variation on the design. I had been working on something similar, but your rear frame and hidden wiring is superior to my design so i replicated it in mine (i hope this ok - its just for my own use). I made a few changes. - My LED control is using a QuinLED Dig-Uno, I use relay control in line to ensure that the LED strips have no power when in an off state as in long scenarios they do draw quite a bit of power. - I have an on/off button that uses the button functionality of WLED - I use hot melt brass inserts for all the M3 bolt fixtures - it makes it easier to reconfigure - i solder flying leads and use JST-SM connectors rather than the white clips you use - i find the clips lose a lot of power - I print the lens as well using clear PLA and have a diffuser design in it - looks very good and works well - I modified the frame so that my lens/diffuser clips in - no glue required Happy to share the STEP or STL files if you would like
Thanks. Yes, absolutely - but you'll need to use the compatible PCB I designed for a more recent project: th-cam.com/video/Av5Fy3A_UWE/w-d-xo.html This one includes a microphone and additional processing power to enable sound synchronised light. Its PCB was designed to be backwards compatible with this Geoleaf project. :)
@@DIYMachines Awesome man, I am definitely going to try this project. Do you think running the the leds through a channel might diffuse the light a little better in each section? Lastly, can this be done with different shapes that triangles...say a hexagon to make kind of a honey comb shape? Thanks again! really love your videos and teaching style.
Great design, printing the parts as I write this. Also ordered the ready built and pre configured PCB from your ETSY shop. Cant wait to get it built and will send an update. Thanks for your efforts.
Awesome, thank you! If your PCB isn't one I've dispatched already then I'm building the next batch this evening (just need the ESP32's I ordered to arrive) and it'll be on its way to you First Class. :)
What type of 3d printer is needed for fun DIY stuff like this? I guess, what is a good one beginners are capable of using but still has good functionality? I don't know much about the 3d printer world, but am trying to learn. Thank you in advance. really look forward to trying this.
I've watched two of your videos, this one and 'How to build a Hidden Shelf Edge Clock'. Your projects are awesome and the level of detail provided in the video and description are superb. New subscriber.
Go for it. I loved my printer so much I started this TH-cam channel about it. 😁 You should be able to print this project on a Prusa Mk3 or Prusa Mini. I use a Prusa MK3S for my projects and highly recommend both it and the Prusa Mini. If I inspired you to take up 3D printing please consider purchasing a printer via this link: shop.prusa3d.com/#a_aid=diymachines Prusa support my channel when you use that link at no cost to yourself. :)
Second project I’ve undertaken from you! The first was the hidden shelf clock with the esp32. Trying to get this finished up and I’m having issues with the WLED web installer not wanting to install WLED and is stuck on “preparing installation”. Might have to flash the binary it seems like, projects never go as smooth as we hope lol.
Yes I was in chrome it seems like it is a common issue lately and many people have been having issues with it lately. I ended up downloading esp home flasher and the .bin file from the WLED GitHub and flashing it that way. Wasnt too painful doing it that way once I figured out what to do now it’s running great!
Nice project! Will have to try this out, but i'll try with printed white panels instead of acrylic first. @DIY Machine What I don't understand is how you come up with the 3500mA cap limiter. For your 14panels = 100.8Watts = 100.8W/12V = 8400mA ? I am by no means an electrical engineer, and I wish to learn how you come up with this and how I should adapt this value in case I choose more or less panels.
Hi Dennis, the limit is created by the PCB's power trace widths, then the next cap is the barrel connector (rated for 5 amps peak if you buy the right one). I also kept it low to limit any damage someone might cause if they tried to push all the parts of the project too close to their limits. If you used an alternative path for the power to the LED's and kept an eye on the heat they generate then you could indeed increase the limit in WLED.
Lovely, lyrical lights! Having worked with LEDs extensively, one small suggestion: two layers of diffusion creates a much more even result: it eliminates the "hot spots" from the individual LEDs. Regardless, great work!
Very nice - likely my first project when I am finally able to decide which 3-D printer to buy ( I cannot believe how many there are to choose from!). One suggested design improvement: make all the LEDs and wiring attach to the white chassis prints and make the black light boxes snap on covers (like the cover of the rectangular electronics box). This way you can have concealed wall attachment screws without the extra small triangular pieces, and it would be a lot easier to gain access should servicing be required. The chassis prints could also have extra support features to simplify assembly and reduce the amount of glue and screws required.
Thank you John. I'd recommend Prusa - I designed this project to be printable on the full size Mk3 series and the Prusa mini. You idea is great. I originally had the 3D prints with a hanging point on the back but when printing the first one and fully assembled it I laughed and face palmed 🤦♂️ myself when I only then realised the acrylic blocked access. This is when I pivoted to the mini triangle anchor points. Being able to service it in situ would also be a great bonus.
Amazing stuff! My uncle has several 3D printers, so I might actually give this a go. Thank you! One thing I'd be interested to see is if you could make a DIY version of the Elgato Key Light. I imagine there's A LOT of people that would be happy to make that themselves.
Thanks Sam. Thanks for the suggestion, I just took a look at he Elgato Key Light. To be honest, by the time we match the CRI, brightness and other features it would not be much cheaper than theirs (and a-lot bulkier). If we settled for lower specs such as a lower CRI then it would not be the quality that makes the Elgato so favourable. I've put it on my list of possible project, but it won't be soon.
thats a pretty cool project, I would like to make a claw machine using a arduino or a raspberry pi, my main problem its the claw itself, do you plan do something like that in the future?
Hello, and thanks for the kind words. I have on my list to make a candy grab type arcade machine which would have a claw mechanism but it's not something I'll be working on for awhile.
Fantastic! Thanks for letting me know. Tag me on an Instagram photo (@diy_machines) or send a photo via Facebook (facebook.com/diymachines) and I'll add it to a new page I'm adding on my site showing people's own builds. No worries if you'd rather not, I hope you enjoy what you made either way. 🙂
is it possible to make a diy nanoleaf hot-swappable, so you can very easy switch from pattern to pattern without having a hard time detaching the panels
Good question. If you could adhere it well (smooth) to the backing panel then it should only improve things. Don't completely seal in the LEDs with it. One of the reasons it is spaced of the wall is to allow airflow to help keep things cooler. :)
Hi, nice project.. There is also an Wled android app, that works very well, with autosearch function. It's much better for controlling and searching, if you have more like one of this project application.. I'm using it many years and I'm very satisfied.
Hmm pretty close but looking at my original nanoleaf panels, yours are definitely thicker and it looks like they maybe used a thicker plexi for the "screen" part of the panel because yours is showing the individual leds through it.
I like it, but there are a ton of these panel tutorials with less quality, but easier to follow and cheaper to create. While I like this tut, I find it complicated and uses expensive equipment for some. Very creative, 1-10, 10+ for creativity, a 7 for difficulty for the new user. I would recommend retitling this project for those with a 3d printer as it may attract more people using these machines.
Cool stuff , Can you make a video showing how to make an array of smd leds (2835) such that I can power it with a current limiting Buck Boost converter
Tip! I had the problem that the wifi most of the time did not connect.... For me the solution was easy. I had the voltage trim set to 5.0v. This I had to bring back to 4.5v to get wifi to work.
Hi, I'm building your project. I printed everything and bought all the necessary components including I got from you (on Etsy) the entire PCB already assembled and with pre-installed software, because I didn't want to waste too much time soldering. I am missing only one part, the plexiglass, the product link you posted on Amazon shows a transparent plexiglass, shouldn't it be opaque? Maybe I'm wrong? Thank you. Tony. P.S. Forgive me for my bad english.
Hi Tony, your English is great. Yes, you're right, it should be opaque. Do you mind telling me which country you're in so that I can check and fix the link? Thanks, Lewis
Do you think there's a way to power them and hold them together at the same time using some stronger magnets as connections?
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Yes there is. I’ve seen a smaller lighting project with that. But you have to do your own homework because I really don’t know if the magnets have special restrictions, resistance or something like that, or if they work just like any regular metallic connector.
Do you think that you could use this kind of circuit board for the neon desk lamps, so that you could make those controllable from your phone or alexa, as i would love to make those wall mounted versions of the neon lamps
Your videos are getting better by the month, keep up the work! I just have a few questions. Don't you need to strip the wires that go into the t connectors? And if I make 12 panels do I also have to give the last panel a voltage boost? Or is it better to than boost every 5 panels? Hope someone in this great community can help me answer these questions.Edit. Do you use 30 leds/m or 60 leds/m. I can get a set of 60 cheaper than the 30 ones And I think it should just work fine
Thanks Ruben, I'm working on improving with each project. The T-splice connector make a cut in the wire themselves when you crimp them. When you add a power boost it travels out in both directions, so the idea is that each injection point boost the 2/3 panels in both directions which should be enough to cover the project. No harm in adding additional ones if you wanted to though. I used 60 per meter which is preferred, the triangles are sized to fit the 60 per metre. Have fun building your own! 🙂
Sir Please Make a tutorial On connecting everything through the Perfboard as i live outside in India and i dont think hat PCB way ship outside UK so it will be really healpful if you did that
I just tryed it, it took a lot afford to do, i did 19 Pannels and added some voltage every 4 panels. But idk why but my led strip stop working in the middle of the 4th panel. it would be nice to see a earlyer possible testing on the projekct. now i have to find out where the problem is
Hi, great work ! The result is really good looking but what do you think of full white 3d printed parts ? have you tested it ? Thank you for your project
Thanks. No, I've not tried entirely white. You may witness some 'bleeding' through the walls of the triangles, they're about five permitters thick though so you might get away with it.
Great project with an awesome result. Can you also add a link to your source of those flat head m3 bolts? I don't have in that format and would like to add them to my screw collection.
Thank you Rob. The project's software features are provided by the brilliant WLED (kno.wled.ge) which at the moment does not offer Google integration. This is because of limitations imposed by Google at the moment: (github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/issues/31) but it is something they hope to have.
@@craig4860 Hi Craig, sorry it took a couple of days to look into doing this. I have listed some pre-prepared PCB's here on my Etsy shop: www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1093166401 UK delivery only, Scotlands fine. :)
Yes you could, I usually use WS2812B in all my other projects but moved to the WS2811 to help with voltage drop (higher voltage helps). You would likely need to connect more voltage boost point along the chain. Also use a 5v power supply and bypass the mini360, it won't be needed.
one update id suggest for this design would be another form of diffusion on top of the led's, seeing the individual light sources is a turn off for me.
Hi, I love the video! I have been looking into doing projects like these myself for a while now, and so I have a newbie question here and apologies if it has been asked already. I'm trying to understand how you are able to provide even power to all the LEDs with just 1 power supply. I know you added the injections along the line but the power still came from the 1 power supply. From my limited understanding, I thought to power say 150 5V RGB LEDs (assuming all on max white brightness) would require at max around 9amps of power, and if I wanted to, say, double that amount to 300 then I would need 2 power supplies to ensure even and full supply of power to all LEDs. You clearly are using a lot more than the example of 150 LEDs, and yet with a 6amp power supply as your video states, you are able to power all of them. Sure, you aren't turning them all to max brightness or to as white as you can get, but I am assuming you wouldn't have a problem doing so if you wanted to, or you would have mentioned it as a warning. Does it have something to do with the fact you used a 12v power supply that was converted down to 5v for the LEDs. Did that change the amperage to something more than its default 6amps? I assume I am missing something fundamental about how power supplies work and when powering a circuit. I am still learning this stuff as I go. Hopefully you or anyone else sees this and can give me an easy to understand answer. Thanks for your time. P.S. how many LEDs do you think can theoretically be powered using your method with that power supply and your injections at the regular intervals, until the power supply is just not enough and another would be needed?
Love these projects. Question though, why not just buy a strip of leds with the controller and plug included and then string them all the way through. Why bother cutting them all and why use a special control board. A full string of led with controller and remote is probably less expensive.
This looks great! I found your channel from this video and have been watching through many of your videos and I am now a new subscriber. Can't wait to see your channel grow. I was wondering if you knew if one could define custom patterns (or something similar to this) with the WLED implementation? I am looking to design and build a sign and would like to be able to control what goes on in each letter of the sign. I am open to suggestion!
Hi Jake, the best bet is to use the Segments feature which allows you to divide one long strip into zones: github-wiki-see.page/m/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki/Segments
Great video & instructions! I don't have a 3-D printer, but this would be my 1st project if I did since I too would like to have some Nanoleaf type panels. However, Is there a way to shield the LED's somehow so that the panel still has the nice glow, but the individual LED's aren't as noticeable?
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. 👍 The LEDs are not so noticeable when viewing it in the flesh, they are tricky to capture on camera faithfully. If you didn't mind a thicker border around the acrylic you increase the amount it overlaps the acrylic at the edges, perhaps foil on the back panel may also make a difference. Hope those ideas might inspire something. :)
0:41 "I don't think they look too bad" Get out of here with that humility. They look amazing and you darn well know it!
Haha 😉 Thanks.
As an upgrade I think I would put in some pluggable connections inbetween the leaves so if one were to need reconfigure the shape then the leaves are easier to plug into one another.
Lets get this guy some more subscribers! By far the best step by step instructions for all these amazing projects he makes and all for free!
Thanks Daniel. I would certainly my welcome more subscribers. 😄
I am, consistently astounded at this point by, the quality of your designs, the quality of your instructions, the quality of your videos, lighting, audio. All of it. Sir you, are absolutely spot on spec, each and every time. I haven't built anything new in awhile, partly funds and partly, been looking for my next effort. This one is it and WOW the PRICE is SO MUCH BETTER! I get to use my newly acquired 3d printer skills (gained over the last pandemic year) along with hardware and software building / configuring (gave me some ideas for customizations, etc...). Extremely excited when I got home a little while ago and saw this on my home page from you. Thank you. I'll close with, always a great attitude and your joy of the build always shines through. You are a pleasure sir and are hands down my favorite maker in YT land/everywhere. I put your work up there with Makers Muse, CNC Kitchen, 3D Printing Nerd, and all the others that shine at the top of their trade. Looking forward to seeing your channel grow to a million subscribers. KEEP IT UP AND THANK YOU!!!!!
Wow thank you Jack. 😊 I'm so happy you like the project. I really enjoyed working on it... a million subscribers would be quite remarkable!
@@DIYMachines I believe it will happen! You are welcome and I’m excited and looking forward to your future designs!
The editing in this video and all your other videos is so clever
Thank you - I'm glad you enjoy them.
I've just found your channel, and I'm really impressed by how economical your descriptions and editing are - sufficiently thorough to convey all that is important and nothing more. Too often skip I fast forward to progress through static, but with your production I watched every moment of it.
Welcome aboard! I'm really glad you found it concise enough - thanks for sticking with it. :)
Sam with me. Just found this channel and will definetly build it once i'm home
That video editing, besides the project, is INSANE!
Wow. Thank you.
I really don't understand why this channel doesn't have at least 250k subs.
That would be brilliant, until then I'll have to keep working hard to get there. Feel free to spread the word... 😁
dude the fact that the ideas is awesome plus your editing tricks are frigging amazing
Thanks Neoyagami, I tried hard to up the editing quality on this one. So glad you noticed. 🙂
OMG! finally i wanted to make these but all the tutorials were not good enough but then i got the notification ,i was soo happy cant wait to make my own
I'm so glad! You're welcome. I hope that you enjoy making them.
Wow! I‘m speechless 😶! What a solid construction and beautiful design! I also love these little stop motion scenes, which are so time consuming to produce. Although I‘m not a native English speaker, I can understand Your instructions very well and will try to build my own nanoleave lights. Thank you 🙏 so much!
Thank you so much 😀 I'm glad you enjoyed the stop motion. It's the first time I've used it on the channel and you're right - it's not quick to do! I think I will use it in future videos though.
Thanks!
Thank you for the support. :)
Lewis, you are a creative genius! You have outdone yourself once again with this project. Amazing :)
Thank you very much!
1:25 WOW! That internal reveal via panning while video transitioning effect was brilliant! Makes me want to stay making videos. ☮️❤️🌈‼️
You inspire me so much. What do you use for video editing?
Thank you. I tried to up my game whilst editing this one. I'm so glad you noticed it - makes worth all the while. :)
Final Cut is what I use. 🎥
I finished making this over the weekend and it looks great. Thanks for the clear instructions and creating such a great project
You are so welcome! Tag me on an Instagram photo (@diy_machines) or send a photo via Facebook (facebook.com/diymachines) and I'll add it to a new page I'm adding on my site showing people's own builds. No worries if you'd rather, I hope ou enjoy what you made either way. 🙂
How are yours working? I’m getting very erradic flickering on mine now oddly enough.
WOW amazing video ! I am amazed by how much effort you have put into the quality of this video !
Thank you so much! I'm glad you appreciate it.
Project is obviously great but the effort put into the production of this video is commendable...
High quality stuff..
Keep growing 👍
I will work hard to keep making and sharing projects. I did try to go the extra mile whilst filming and editing this one - I'm so glad you noticed. 😃
I’ve made dozens of WLED powered projects and never knew about the web installer! I’ve always been manually flashing the .bin file. That’s awesome!
Yes, it’s so much more convenient! :)
looks amazing, i'm currently printing mine. just a quick tip, the A4 sheets give 3 Triangles, i only got A3 sheets, but from an A3 sheet you could get 9 Triangles!
Thanks
You are very welcome. Thank you for the support! 🙂
love this project, i have printed the walls, base & control box but i printed the acrylic reference shape 3mm height with white pla+ and it looks like opaque acrylic, so i printed another at only 1.5mm high and it looks pretty good ( lets light from a led torch through) , waiting until my leds arrive before i commit to printing all the panels in PLA+ not acrylic
did you finished it?
How did this turn I out? Thinking of doing the same as I don't have the means to be cutting acrylic.
@@YouDyZ yes it’s on the bedroom wall and set up with voice commands via Alexa, printed the panels in white pla+ but only 1.5mm thick and they work great
@@gilesh3895 hi, I tried a few thicknesses but prefer only 1.5mm and it works fantastic this is a great project, I have also made two lightsabers using the same controllers but with 5volt leds so no need for other components
@@paulmason6847 Thanks for the reply I will be doing the same
Thank good you used WLED and custom esp controller! It’s a legitimate build. Most creators use stupid off the shelf Chinese Bluetooth led strips from a box store. Awesome build!
Thanks Chris. I also went with WLED as it saved me having to create a lot of my own code - it was not entirely selfless. 😉
I added a MAX9814 microphone and installed a WLED-SR on it and now it can also do some sound reactive effects.
I probably would print it with white filament and design it in such a way that you only need one part per panel.
Also WS LEDs with integrated controller would be better.
Also the inner circumference should be designed that the LED strip lays down fully and there is no component right on the bend, you also want some sort of hooks to pin down the LED strip because the double-sided glue on these tends to fail.
I was able to reproduce this using your stl files and the pcb from PCBWay, it works great, thank you! The only problem I am having is the 10 cm connector wires between the triangles at times are almost too short. I have one connection that constantly works its way loose, causing all the triangles after it to blink and flash erratically. I have reassembled the connections a few times, but so far the problem continues. I need to take it down again to figure out a permanent fix for one pesky connection. Other than that I really enjoyed this project.
You're very welcome. You're also right that sometimes (rarely) one of the wires connectors can be little tight depending on your layout. Have you considered soldering three wires directly between the pads of the troublesome connection?
@@DIYMachines Thank you for the reply. Yes, just yesterday I had the thought that I may need to actually solder a few of the connections rather than rely on the connectors.
This is so cool! I appreciate the time you spent on this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great project. Created a set for my son with 9 panels that look awesome.
Thanks a bunch :)
Glad I could help! I hope he enjoys them. :)
Hi, a very nice design, thanks for the video. I used it as a basis to do my own variation on the design. I had been working on something similar, but your rear frame and hidden wiring is superior to my design so i replicated it in mine (i hope this ok - its just for my own use). I made a few changes.
- My LED control is using a QuinLED Dig-Uno, I use relay control in line to ensure that the LED strips have no power when in an off state as in long scenarios they do draw quite a bit of power.
- I have an on/off button that uses the button functionality of WLED
- I use hot melt brass inserts for all the M3 bolt fixtures - it makes it easier to reconfigure
- i solder flying leads and use JST-SM connectors rather than the white clips you use - i find the clips lose a lot of power
- I print the lens as well using clear PLA and have a diffuser design in it - looks very good and works well
- I modified the frame so that my lens/diffuser clips in - no glue required
Happy to share the STEP or STL files if you would like
Hi I am also looking at printing my own lenses would you mind sharing your stl files?
@@SvyatoslavGudzovatyy - sure - let me see if i can find everything
i do have - send me an email and i will send them to you
Very nice videos and quality projects. You deserve a big applause for your work!
Thank you so much 😀
What an extremely well thought out and presented project.... I look forward to building this.....
Thank you Tony, I hope you do and enjoy both the process and end result. 👍🏼
@@DIYMachines Everything is in place and working, just need the intended recipient to decide on the pattern :)
the way the video is made and edited. my god. this is so incredible good :-D
Wow, thank you!
Oh man, your videos are amazing! And you are such a good teacher!!
Is it possible to sync the leds to music?
Thanks. Yes, absolutely - but you'll need to use the compatible PCB I designed for a more recent project: th-cam.com/video/Av5Fy3A_UWE/w-d-xo.html This one includes a microphone and additional processing power to enable sound synchronised light. Its PCB was designed to be backwards compatible with this Geoleaf project. :)
@@DIYMachines Awesome man, I am definitely going to try this project. Do you think running the the leds through a channel might diffuse the light a little better in each section? Lastly, can this be done with different shapes that triangles...say a hexagon to make kind of a honey comb shape? Thanks again! really love your videos and teaching style.
Very good video. Straight forward, easy to follow and you know what you're doing. You deserve a lot more subscribers.
Wow, thanks. I'll keep working at it. :)
Great design, printing the parts as I write this. Also ordered the ready built and pre configured PCB from your ETSY shop. Cant wait to get it built and will send an update. Thanks for your efforts.
Awesome, thank you! If your PCB isn't one I've dispatched already then I'm building the next batch this evening (just need the ESP32's I ordered to arrive) and it'll be on its way to you First Class. :)
@@DIYMachines All arrived today safe and sound, thanks :)
@@Kosmoski99 Brillaint, enjoy. 💡
What type of 3d printer is needed for fun DIY stuff like this? I guess, what is a good one beginners are capable of using but still has good functionality? I don't know much about the 3d printer world, but am trying to learn. Thank you in advance. really look forward to trying this.
I've watched two of your videos, this one and 'How to build a Hidden Shelf Edge Clock'. Your projects are awesome and the level of detail provided in the video and description are superb. New subscriber.
Awesome, thank you! I'm glad you like the projects.
My filament needs to hurry so I can start printing this. Just a great design!
Thanks. Yes, come on filament! I've only ever run out once or twice but's it so frustrating when you want to print something....
This and a bunch other things, just might make me finally buy a 3D printer.... What 3D printer are you using, or what are your print bed dimensions?
Go for it. I loved my printer so much I started this TH-cam channel about it. 😁 You should be able to print this project on a Prusa Mk3 or Prusa Mini.
I use a Prusa MK3S for my projects and highly recommend both it and the Prusa Mini. If I inspired you to take up 3D printing please consider purchasing a printer via this link: shop.prusa3d.com/#a_aid=diymachines
Prusa support my channel when you use that link at no cost to yourself. :)
What a beautiful project and so well documented. I am tempted to make one.
Go for it! I'm sat next to mine right now. :)
Second project I’ve undertaken from you! The first was the hidden shelf clock with the esp32. Trying to get this finished up and I’m having issues with the WLED web installer not wanting to install WLED and is stuck on “preparing installation”. Might have to flash the binary it seems like, projects never go as smooth as we hope lol.
I'm so glad to hear your making another. 🙂 Are you trying the web installer in Chrome? I never had success in safari.
Yes I was in chrome it seems like it is a common issue lately and many people have been having issues with it lately. I ended up downloading esp home flasher and the .bin file from the WLED GitHub and flashing it that way. Wasnt too painful doing it that way once I figured out what to do now it’s running great!
Nice project! Will have to try this out, but i'll try with printed white panels instead of acrylic first.
@DIY Machine
What I don't understand is how you come up with the 3500mA cap limiter. For your 14panels = 100.8Watts = 100.8W/12V = 8400mA ?
I am by no means an electrical engineer, and I wish to learn how you come up with this and how I should adapt this value in case I choose more or less panels.
Hi Dennis, the limit is created by the PCB's power trace widths, then the next cap is the barrel connector (rated for 5 amps peak if you buy the right one). I also kept it low to limit any damage someone might cause if they tried to push all the parts of the project too close to their limits. If you used an alternative path for the power to the LED's and kept an eye on the heat they generate then you could indeed increase the limit in WLED.
Lovely, lyrical lights! Having worked with LEDs extensively, one small suggestion: two layers of diffusion creates a much more even result: it eliminates the "hot spots" from the individual LEDs. Regardless, great work!
Very nice - likely my first project when I am finally able to decide which 3-D printer to buy ( I cannot believe how many there are to choose from!). One suggested design improvement: make all the LEDs and wiring attach to the white chassis prints and make the black light boxes snap on covers (like the cover of the rectangular electronics box). This way you can have concealed wall attachment screws without the extra small triangular pieces, and it would be a lot easier to gain access should servicing be required. The chassis prints could also have extra support features to simplify assembly and reduce the amount of glue and screws required.
Thank you John. I'd recommend Prusa - I designed this project to be printable on the full size Mk3 series and the Prusa mini.
You idea is great. I originally had the 3D prints with a hanging point on the back but when printing the first one and fully assembled it I laughed and face palmed 🤦♂️ myself when I only then realised the acrylic blocked access. This is when I pivoted to the mini triangle anchor points.
Being able to service it in situ would also be a great bonus.
Amazing stuff! My uncle has several 3D printers, so I might actually give this a go. Thank you! One thing I'd be interested to see is if you could make a DIY version of the Elgato Key Light. I imagine there's A LOT of people that would be happy to make that themselves.
Thanks Sam. Thanks for the suggestion, I just took a look at he Elgato Key Light. To be honest, by the time we match the CRI, brightness and other features it would not be much cheaper than theirs (and a-lot bulkier). If we settled for lower specs such as a lower CRI then it would not be the quality that makes the Elgato so favourable. I've put it on my list of possible project, but it won't be soon.
Saw the clip on printables and dropped a liked and a follow! Damn inspirational content
thats a pretty cool project, I would like to make a claw machine using a arduino or a raspberry pi, my main problem its the claw itself, do you plan do something like that in the future?
Hello, and thanks for the kind words. I have on my list to make a candy grab type arcade machine which would have a claw mechanism but it's not something I'll be working on for awhile.
Thanks a lot! Today I did it - it looks AWESOME !!!
Fantastic! Thanks for letting me know.
Tag me on an Instagram photo (@diy_machines) or send a photo via Facebook (facebook.com/diymachines) and I'll add it to a new page I'm adding on my site showing people's own builds. No worries if you'd rather not, I hope you enjoy what you made either way. 🙂
@@DIYMachines OK. But first I'll hang it on the wall. And I will take high quality photos.
is it possible to make a diy nanoleaf hot-swappable, so you can very easy switch from pattern to pattern without having a hard time detaching the panels
th-cam.com/video/YLfwbr-5PxM/w-d-xo.html
How would it look like if you used something like aluminium foil as a backing for the triangles?
Good question. If you could adhere it well (smooth) to the backing panel then it should only improve things. Don't completely seal in the LEDs with it. One of the reasons it is spaced of the wall is to allow airflow to help keep things cooler. :)
Hi, nice project.. There is also an Wled android app, that works very well, with autosearch function. It's much better for controlling and searching, if you have more like one of this project application.. I'm using it many years and I'm very satisfied.
Thanks for the tip! I looked and found one for iOS devices as well.
Hmm pretty close but looking at my original nanoleaf panels, yours are definitely thicker and it looks like they maybe used a thicker plexi for the "screen" part of the panel because yours is showing the individual leds through it.
I like it, but there are a ton of these panel tutorials with less quality, but easier to follow and cheaper to create. While I like this tut, I find it complicated and uses expensive equipment for some. Very creative, 1-10, 10+ for creativity, a 7 for difficulty for the new user. I would recommend retitling this project for those with a 3d printer as it may attract more people using these machines.
Cool stuff , Can you make a video showing how to make an array of smd leds (2835) such that I can power it with a current limiting Buck Boost converter
Thanks TheDIYer. That's a very specific request. I've got a list of my own projects that'll last me along time yet. Sorry.
Startet to print already :D Thanks for the great idea!! (made the clock-shelf already)
regarding the LED, does it matter if 30/m or 60/m
Brilliant, I hope your enjoying the shelf clock. :)
I started with 30/m but found the diffusion better with 60/m.
Tip!
I had the problem that the wifi most of the time did not connect....
For me the solution was easy.
I had the voltage trim set to 5.0v.
This I had to bring back to 4.5v to get wifi to work.
Thank you for sharing your advice with others. 👍🏼
Awesome project, perfect presented. Thank you!
You are welcome! Thanks.
Hi,
I'm building your project.
I printed everything and bought all the necessary components including I got from you (on Etsy) the entire PCB already assembled and with pre-installed software, because I didn't want to waste too much time soldering.
I am missing only one part, the plexiglass, the product link you posted on Amazon shows a transparent plexiglass, shouldn't it be opaque? Maybe I'm wrong?
Thank you.
Tony.
P.S.
Forgive me for my bad english.
Hi Tony, your English is great.
Yes, you're right, it should be opaque.
Do you mind telling me which country you're in so that I can check and fix the link?
Thanks, Lewis
Do you think there's a way to power them and hold them together at the same time using some stronger magnets as connections?
Yes there is. I’ve seen a smaller lighting project with that.
But you have to do your own homework because I really don’t know if the magnets have special restrictions, resistance or something like that, or if they work just like any regular metallic connector.
th-cam.com/video/YLfwbr-5PxM/w-d-xo.html
Do you think that you could use this kind of circuit board for the neon desk lamps, so that you could make those controllable from your phone or alexa, as i would love to make those wall mounted versions of the neon lamps
great video mate, well done on the editing, you have a new sub
Much appreciated! Thank you. :)
lol ordered the LEDs in the parts list, the ones that came have a waterproofing over them so it's more difficult to plug into the 10cm connectors
you can probably still use black on rear and use baking foil to get even stronger reflection than white plastic.
That’s probably true. Great idea. :)
Brilliant work! Is it possible, to connect more of the triangles - say 15? Or would the power supply or the chipsets burn?
Your videos are getting better by the month, keep up the work! I just have a few questions. Don't you need to strip the wires that go into the t connectors? And if I make 12 panels do I also have to give the last panel a voltage boost? Or is it better to than boost every 5 panels? Hope someone in this great community can help me answer these questions.Edit. Do you use 30 leds/m or 60 leds/m. I can get a set of 60 cheaper than the 30 ones And I think it should just work fine
Thanks Ruben, I'm working on improving with each project. The T-splice connector make a cut in the wire themselves when you crimp them. When you add a power boost it travels out in both directions, so the idea is that each injection point boost the 2/3 panels in both directions which should be enough to cover the project. No harm in adding additional ones if you wanted to though. I used 60 per meter which is preferred, the triangles are sized to fit the 60 per metre. Have fun building your own! 🙂
Great project.. absolutely smashed it.. subbed..
Awesome, thank you!
Sir Please Make a tutorial On connecting everything through the Perfboard as i live outside in India and i dont think hat PCB way ship outside UK so it will be really healpful if you did that
8 days? That is madness :( But I'm very curious and looking forward to your Video! ;)
Thanks, 7 days left now… (I needed time to finish the written documentation) :)
I just tryed it, it took a lot afford to do, i did 19 Pannels and added some voltage every 4 panels. But idk why but my led strip stop working in the middle of the 4th panel.
it would be nice to see a earlyer possible testing on the projekct. now i have to find out where the problem is
which module i should use for sound reactive
Hi, great work ! The result is really good looking but what do you think of full white 3d printed parts ? have you tested it ? Thank you for your project
Thanks. No, I've not tried entirely white. You may witness some 'bleeding' through the walls of the triangles, they're about five permitters thick though so you might get away with it.
Could you choose the colors to use and make them move with the music that is played by an Arduino?
Great project with an awesome result. Can you also add a link to your source of those flat head m3 bolts? I don't have in that format and would like to add them to my screw collection.
Thanks. I bought the M3 bolts here: www.accu.co.uk/en/phillips-pan-head-screws/65409-SIP-M3-8-A2
Nanoleaf Lines have just been released....How about Geoleaf Lines? Pretty please?
The very same thought has crossed my mind.. :)
@@DIYMachines I started exploring what LED diffuser strips could be used as a basis...
It's a great idea! 👍
Glad you think so! :)
Very cool design. I don’t own a 3D printer. How does one go about getting them ordered somewhere? (I’m in the East coast of the USA)
Nice, thanks for sharing. Do you have similar for hexagons?
Great project with a fantastic result. Just one question, what if you have Google instead of Alexa, how easy would it be to change the voice command?
Thank you Rob. The project's software features are provided by the brilliant WLED (kno.wled.ge) which at the moment does not offer Google integration. This is because of limitations imposed by Google at the moment: (github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/issues/31) but it is something they hope to have.
Use IFTTT and Google assistant: www.instructables.com/WLED-on-ESP8266-IFTTT-Google-Assistant/
Awesome project. Would you consider selling pre soldered pcbs for this project?
Thanks Craig, do you mean with just the LLC, Mini360 and Wemos pre attached? Also, what country are you in?
@@DIYMachines Hi, Yes my soldering isn't the very good but I can do the rest. I'm in the UK. Scotland.
@@craig4860 Hi Craig, sorry it took a couple of days to look into doing this. I have listed some pre-prepared PCB's here on my Etsy shop: www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1093166401
UK delivery only, Scotlands fine. :)
Hi, no worries. Just purchased one. Thank you.
@@craig4860 I'll try and get it in the post tomorrow.
Cannot wait for it man....😍😶
Just a few hours... :)
Production quality is looking great, very engaging even for simple minded people like me with a short atten... what was I saying?
'attention span.' 😛. Thanks.
Soooooo cool. I just need to find time to build one.
Thanks Stephen, Christmas is coming - I'm always busy with my projects over Christmas. :)
How many of these panels I can use with your electronics? What is the maximum LED's it will keep alive?
Could one use WS2812 instead of WS2811 without to much modification?
Yes you could, I usually use WS2812B in all my other projects but moved to the WS2811 to help with voltage drop (higher voltage helps). You would likely need to connect more voltage boost point along the chain. Also use a 5v power supply and bypass the mini360, it won't be needed.
will love to see the same but with hexa patern and see a complet wall with it controlled both by a software (like Alexa) and motion detection :)
one update id suggest for this design would be another form of diffusion on top of the led's, seeing the individual light sources is a turn off for me.
Thank you!!! I have in mind something really similar to this
No problem. :)
Hi, I love the video!
I have been looking into doing projects like these myself for a while now, and so I have a newbie question here and apologies if it has been asked already.
I'm trying to understand how you are able to provide even power to all the LEDs with just 1 power supply. I know you added the injections along the line but the power still came from the 1 power supply.
From my limited understanding, I thought to power say 150 5V RGB LEDs (assuming all on max white brightness) would require at max around 9amps of power, and if I wanted to, say, double that amount to 300 then I would need 2 power supplies to ensure even and full supply of power to all LEDs.
You clearly are using a lot more than the example of 150 LEDs, and yet with a 6amp power supply as your video states, you are able to power all of them.
Sure, you aren't turning them all to max brightness or to as white as you can get, but I am assuming you wouldn't have a problem doing so if you wanted to, or you would have mentioned it as a warning.
Does it have something to do with the fact you used a 12v power supply that was converted down to 5v for the LEDs. Did that change the amperage to something more than its default 6amps?
I assume I am missing something fundamental about how power supplies work and when powering a circuit. I am still learning this stuff as I go. Hopefully you or anyone else sees this and can give me an easy to understand answer.
Thanks for your time.
P.S. how many LEDs do you think can theoretically be powered using your method with that power supply and your injections at the regular intervals, until the power supply is just not enough and another would be needed?
I also agree that it itsrudetopeek lol. Great video, I am planning on making these very soon an look forward to the results
😁
Love these projects. Question though, why not just buy a strip of leds with the controller and plug included and then string them all the way through. Why bother cutting them all and why use a special control board. A full string of led with controller and remote is probably less expensive.
Thank you, and yes you are right - That is the best possible compliment! The aim of my videos are to be recreatable by as many people as possible. 😊
Awesome video!! Thank you definitely a project I am going to do.
Have fun!
What's the max number of panels can this support?
Think I might as well join your patreon. Amazing content!
Really nice project 👍👍 what specific type of filament did you use? Like the quality of the surfaces 😁
Thanks Tobias. I used 3D Jakes Eco PLA (black and white one)
Thanks, by rewatching the video a saw you mentioned the used filament in the right lower corner. 😇
Nice work just subbed!
Look so cool wish I could afford something like this
Thanks Jon. 👍🏼 They may not be free but there a lot cheaper than NanoLeaf panels. This was the only way I could afford to have some. :)
What exactly is the function of mini360 and 74ahct125 in this project? What happens if I use a 5v adapter and connect my wemos d1 directly?
Looks great!
Question: Shouldn't a fuse have been included on the PCB to avoid potential shorts?
Thanks. Any power supply used should have a fuse already fitted. (That was the intention).
This looks great! I found your channel from this video and have been watching through many of your videos and I am now a new subscriber. Can't wait to see your channel grow. I was wondering if you knew if one could define custom patterns (or something similar to this) with the WLED implementation? I am looking to design and build a sign and would like to be able to control what goes on in each letter of the sign. I am open to suggestion!
Hi Jake, the best bet is to use the Segments feature which allows you to divide one long strip into zones: github-wiki-see.page/m/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki/Segments
What about music or sound integration
I want a 3D printer like crazy to print something cool like this one! ; )
Go for it. I have never regretted buying mine. :)
Great video & instructions! I don't have a 3-D printer, but this would be my 1st project if I did since I too would like to have some Nanoleaf type panels. However, Is there a way to shield the LED's somehow so that the panel still has the nice glow, but the individual LED's aren't as noticeable?
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. 👍 The LEDs are not so noticeable when viewing it in the flesh, they are tricky to capture on camera faithfully. If you didn't mind a thicker border around the acrylic you increase the amount it overlaps the acrylic at the edges, perhaps foil on the back panel may also make a difference. Hope those ideas might inspire something. :)