I got rained out at work and wanted to work on my kitchen automation but didn't feel like fighting the rain. I went ahead and built the Linear actuator that will lift it up and down.
Very nice design! And, you did a great job demonstrating the build! I have some improvement ideas you may want to try... To keep the threaded rod always greased for smooth action: tap a grease fitting into the bottom part of the outer conduit and to the top part of the inner conduit. That way you can periodically re-grease the inner threaded rod. Another idea: Add a washer or even better a washer with a rubber boot type seal to the top part of the larger outer conduit. But, the washer/seal would need to have an inner hole large enough for the inner conduit to slide through. The washer/seal can act as a seal to keep dirt and trash from getting into the conduit, it will help retain the grease inside the conduit, and it will act as a guide to help keep the inner conduit centered as it extends and retracts. Great idea of yours. I will be making some like this myself! Way cheaper than having to buy a linear actuator! Good job! You get a BIG THUMBS UP from me!
luke Fugate... Thank you sir. I forgot to mention in the 1st comment: while welding, you may want to place a dark lens over your camera lens. For most digital cameras today, the sensors can be damaged by viewing the Sun and bright arching from a welder.
I was looking for a solution to a problem, and you provided the answer. Thank you so much for posting this video. Very nice job, and a fraction of the cost. Necessity truly is the mother of invention. Thanks again.
Very nice! I plan on building a mini excavator that uses 3 of these actuators and Hypertough battery powered drills to drive them with. I only need 3 actuators, then 3 more for turning the arm, and 2 for driving the tank tracks. Although this design will be a toy size one, it will be still large and powerful enough to actually trench a sewer line! I like heavy equipment! I just got in a Huino 1/14 scale excavator today! I plan on replicating it to about a 1/8 scale! Your video gives me ideas on how to build my actuators now! Thanks, and thumbs up! The 56 IDIOTS who gave a thumbs down, never mind they are mental midgets!
If you do this it would be amazing! I would like to see that in action. If you build this and get it working, could you film it and send me a link to the video?
Very Nice, I'm looking to use this for a pop up camper build. You talked about doing something with 4 of these working together. I would need it for lifting up about 3ft do you have any videos of this?
The pipes I used were 1/2" and 3/4" but you can go with bigger pipes as long as they fit inside each other. The all thread rod was 3/8" but I would recommend at least 1/2" or bigger.
Great job on your video and build. You explained things very clearly. Could a windshield wiper motor be used in place of the drill to achieve the same thing or would the windshield wiper motor not be strong enough? Just curious.
Really good work!!!! I would like to ask that could we make this linear actuator with the stroke length is 4m? I want to make it for my sprayer to treat my tree which is 4m in hight. Thank you so much!
Thanks! You could make it as long as you would like depending on the length of pipe and all thread rod you can find. I would recommend using grade 8 bolt of possible.
I know this was a long time back. It is awesome! Could you make a home/garage/shop/attic elevator from 4 of them? That would be a great project. That could be a span of more than 8' though; could something like that work. Or would you need a winch?
Possibly! I made a lifting roof on an rv one time that gave me a folding second floor. I used four of these and made them out of much bigger pipe. A winch would be easier for a garage lift though.
Not yet! I cut the wires from the switch and actually removed the motor and gearbox from the drill. I then just ran the wires from the motor to the power source.
Luke have you done the second video on connecting to another drill...I'm trying to lift a camper shell and this looks like a great way to do it. Thanks.
I'm currently building a mountain on my model railroad and I think this will be helpful to raise and lower the mountain for access to train derailments. But it'll have to be scaled down made from plastic since it'll only need to lift 4 or 5 lbs.
@@lukeFugate If I want to lift a lid that's hinged on one end the shaft of the actuator needs a slot instead of just a simple hole since the angle of the actuator will change as the lid is raised up what do you think? The link here th-cam.com/video/RQS2z5pJTQE/w-d-xo.html
Hi Luke, a few quick questions for you. I tried making this and missed a step somewhere along the line. Initially, you had two nuts on each side of the washer. Am I correct that on the side closest to the inner pipe it's the nut furthest from the washer that's welded to the threaded rod? When complete, how many nuts should there be on the outside of the washer? It looks like you started with two, but towards the end of the video it looks like there's only one. Are either of the nuts on the outside of the washer welded to anything (i.e. washer or threaded rod)? I'm trying to make a small front end loader for a garden tractor and if I can figure out my mistake then a few of these running off of windshield wiper motors from the junk yard should be able to push the square tubing used as the frame. Your idea is absolutely superb... you may have saved me a ton since the front end loader should now come in at under $150 plus a few pieces of metal from my pile. Thanks for sharing it!
You could use one nut on the inside and one on the outside on either side of the washer as long as they are welded to the shaft. You want your welds on the side away from the washer so it can all spin freely against the washer. It would be smoother if the washer were replaced with a bearing as someone else suggested. For very heavy loads like your loader will be lifting I would go up a couple of sizes in all thread and pipe. Maybe 1 inch and inch and a half pipe, and 7/8" all thread rod.
I'm missing something... why doesn't the inner pipe just simply spin with the threaded rod, instead of actually extending and retracting? **EDIT: OK, I just realized why, He is always holding the inner pipe which prevents it from spinning. This would work if both ends are connected to something where neither end can spin. In my case one end is mounted, but the other end won't touch anything until its extended, so this won't work for me. i'll have to think about it and figure out if there is a way to modify this design to make it work for what I need. Good Video though! Thanks for the ideas!
Hope it does inspire ideas. If there were some way to have a groove in one pipe that a pin could ride in. Or possibly using square tubing instead of round.
@@lukeFugate Yes! I thought about the groove when watching a video about how to rebuild a trailer jack. I don't have a way to make a depression or groove in a pipe. But what I thought trying was to weld two small round bar rods onto the inner pipe, and then weld a pin that could ride between them on the inside of the outer pipe. I think this might work, haven't got to that part of my project yet though. In any case, Thanks for the Informative Videos :-)
@@lukeFugate yeah, been thinking about that. Would be easier. Guess I'll have to go buy some square tubing now... youtube makes me spend a lot of $... LoL
Excellent work Luke. You made exactly that i need. I could not understand / listen about actual size of thread rod and their conduits exact lengths and widths. Please tell their exact sizes. Thanks for great work and sharing.
The conduit I used was a piece of 3/4" and a piece of 1/2". The length will depend on your project. The all thread rod I think was 3/8" and it needs to be about the same length or a little longer than the pipes. You could use bigger all thread rod as long as it will fit into the 1/2" conduit.
Good idea. I'm also looking to sun tracking device for my solar panels, kits are available on the internet but they are expensive. If some can give me any workable idea it will be very greatful. Thanks
@@xettex573 not yet xetter. I'm looking for a controll circuit which can controll leaner actuator Chinese kits are expensive what about you, did you make it.
@@Asimkhan-oj4di I found a really good link from "Gabriel Miller" on youtube. He made an Arduino circuit to control azimuth and elevation for a Steepers linear actuators . The control can be solar tracker or heliostat. Do you manage Arduino? regards !
I did finish the project I built this for. I ended up using a shorter bolt and kind of changed the design. I did use the switch from the drill relocated so I could get to it though. This design worked but I wanted the whole thing hidden, so I re-designed it. Here is the video showing how I ended up doing it.th-cam.com/video/N0LPaDMV8LA/w-d-xo.html
you taught me more engineering than my college.thank you very much.just one question which type of motor should i use if i have to push or pull 20 kgs of weight using this?
Wow, thanks! If you can find a heavier duty drill it would work well. Maybe go up at least one size on the pipes and all thread rod. One thing that is very important with this design is lubrication. You have to make sure the all thread is very well lubricated at all times.
I was an electrician for years and whenever I need metallic pipe it's always the first thing I think of. The dogs have like four places they can go to get out of the rain but they still come out in it and run around. Daisy is terrified of thunder though and she stayed right there under the work bench the whole time shaking.
Very cool I'd like to use one of these to lift the plow on my small garden tractor but I would have no way to power a drill or electric motor, do you think mounting a hand crank on the end would work as well.
Not sure what the maximum lift would be, but it is more than my weight which is 220lbs. This would depend on the materials used and the power of the drill.
Depends on the size of the pipes and all thread rod. The bigger you go the more it can lift. This one I think would lift me off the ground, but if I wanted to lift more I would step up the pipe and all thread size.
It wouldn't be able to lift anything really heavy. It will lift me off the ground no problem but that's only around 220 pounds. If it were intended for heavy duty applications I would recommend going up to a 1 inch and 1 1/4 inch pipe and as big of a all thread rod as will fit in the 1 inch pipe loosely.
SaRtHaK ShUkLa I would suggest using maybe a car scissor jack or something like that. I don't think the conduit pipe will hold up under that much weight.
luke Fugate what makes the drill motor nice is the easily contolled speed; I tried another dc motor and could not get the speed down sufficiently...might be alright with your design.
@@phil8911 you could stagger yer motor with a gears welded to a drill bit, connected to another gear mounted to a wood or metal block with a dowel screw. You could mount as many of them gears staggered as you need till you get the speed yer looking for. The gears you could get at a junk yard, just make sure the teeth mesh with each other. Or even easier use a potentiometer from and old hifi volume knob to control the flow of electricity to the motor. Course you take a chance of burning up yer motor that way if you're trying to lift to much too quickly.
A lot of my ideas believe it or not are from dreams at night. I'll wake up in the morning and before the dream fades I write down the idea. I think this one was from a dream a long time ago.
did you know the fellow that invented planetary gears (think automatic transmissions) had that idea come to him the same way... so definitely write down the things like that !
luke Fugate great project's content your idea came just on time to be of use on my welding cart prototype project i added a mig welder on top of it with a cabinet for tools at the bottom because i remodeled my mobile work bench that have a big vise (staying there), a 4" grinder w/ a new 8" and a bench top drill press w/ xy vise now, for an arbor press then i have some extra equipment laying around my garage (grinder + arbor press) so i decided to add a reclinable platform for that grinder with a flip flop top to place another tool with it as well on the back of the cart im mounting the grinder and on the other side a small vise - i would like it to make it a 3 items (triangular) revolving base (+ arbor press) but it will be bulky i guess with 2 tools attached to it, it would easily hide itself inside the lower cabinet compartment and a guard cover such devices will be attached to the 1/8 steel plate base w/ a sliding plate moved by heavy duty glides too im also planning to move the plate with an old timing chain kit from a z24 nissan motor i'd recently rebuilt and i thought of a linear actuator mechanism to mobilize the chain system part - like the gondola system on the ferris wheel kind of i will put your idea of the actuator to work with the timing chain thank you for this great tip
Isn't conduit zinc-plated and therefore hazardous to weld because the fumes are poisonous? Or was there an unshown step of grinding off the plating before you welded it?
Good point! I usually grind off the surfaces I weld to but I didn't show it. I would say as long as you are welding in a well-ventilated area it should be fine.
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
Very nice design! And, you did a great job demonstrating the build! I have some improvement ideas you may want to try...
To keep the threaded rod always greased for smooth action: tap a grease fitting into the bottom part of the outer conduit and to the top part of the inner conduit. That way you can periodically re-grease the inner threaded rod.
Another idea: Add a washer or even better a washer with a rubber boot type seal to the top part of the larger outer conduit. But, the washer/seal would need to have an inner hole large enough for the inner conduit to slide through. The washer/seal can act as a seal to keep dirt and trash from getting into the conduit, it will help retain the grease inside the conduit, and it will act as a guide to help keep the inner conduit centered as it extends and retracts.
Great idea of yours. I will be making some like this myself! Way cheaper than having to buy a linear actuator! Good job! You get a BIG THUMBS UP from me!
Very good suggestions! Thanks. I'm going to pin this to the top of the comments so everyone can see it.
luke Fugate... Thank you sir. I forgot to mention in the 1st comment: while welding, you may want to place a dark lens over your camera lens. For most digital cameras today, the sensors can be damaged by viewing the Sun and bright arching from a welder.
Thanks, I didn't know that. Poor camera lol.
Such a simple explanation. Thank You
You're welcome.
FRIENDS DONT LET FRIENDS
DRIVE FORD. CHRYSLER IS EVEN WORSE.
I was looking for a solution to a problem, and you provided the answer. Thank you so much for posting this video. Very nice job, and a fraction of the cost. Necessity truly is the mother of invention. Thanks again.
That's good. I hope it helps you out. Just be sure to use plenty of grease.
Very nice! I plan on building a mini excavator that uses 3 of these actuators and Hypertough battery powered drills to drive them with. I only need 3 actuators, then 3 more for turning the arm, and 2 for driving the tank tracks. Although this design will be a toy size one, it will be still large and powerful enough to actually trench a sewer line! I like heavy equipment! I just got in a Huino 1/14 scale excavator today! I plan on replicating it to about a 1/8 scale! Your video gives me ideas on how to build my actuators now! Thanks, and thumbs up! The 56 IDIOTS who gave a thumbs down, never mind they are mental midgets!
If you do this it would be amazing! I would like to see that in action. If you build this and get it working, could you film it and send me a link to the video?
I don't like it, because the outer (or vice versa) part is olreca. That is quite dangerous.
Very Nice, I'm looking to use this for a pop up camper build. You talked about doing something with 4 of these working together. I would need it for lifting up about 3ft do you have any videos of this?
Sorry, that build was way before TH-cam. If you can find acme threaded rod would be better, but it is expensive.
Simply outstanding!👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Buenas amigo muy buena idea lo mismo quisiera hacer en mi casa pero como aria para activarlo para que habrá y cierre solo sin bajarme del carro?
Fantastic. Exactly what I needed to operate my vintage craftsman drill press table without buying something which I hate to do.
Hope it works out for you. I've used this method a few times, good cheap way to do it.
Good job Luke, you are the first guy Ive seen that made a linear actuator. A entertaining video. Cheers !
Nice simple build and you explained building very good. Great job!
Thank you
You would definitely want to use a different type of gear driven motor because that damn drill sound is fucking annoying
You could use any kind of high torque motor. The only challenge would be getting it to couple to the all thread rod.
Genius! You saved my day. This will be used in my Escape Room in Leiria, Portugal ;) Thanks for sharing. Subscribed for future ideas ;)
Thanks, hope it works for you.
ممتاز جيد جدا 🤔🤔👍👍👍🖒🖒🖒🖒🖒✋
Congratulations on the great idea of actuator..what is the thickness of the threaded bar and what are the thickness of the pipes and size ??
The pipes I used were 1/2" and 3/4" but you can go with bigger pipes as long as they fit inside each other. The all thread rod was 3/8" but I would recommend at least 1/2" or bigger.
That easy... great! 👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏
Thank you! Cheers!
Excelente ! es justo lo q buscaba para un proyecto personal !! muchas gracias por compartirlo !
Hey Luke, great video. Thumbs up. Cheers.
Thanks for the comment. Hope this video is helpful to you.
Do you have switch the direction on the drill to lengthen it?
Yes the drill direction determines the in or out actuation.
Good job
instead of the washer, I would probably try to find a ball bearing that would fit and weld it to the conduit.
Very good idea. would make it last longer and run smoother.
Welding a ball bearing will ruin it by heat distortion,a descent brass or phosphor bronze plain bush would work well.
Great job on your video and build. You explained things very clearly. Could a windshield wiper motor be used in place of the drill to achieve the same thing or would the windshield wiper motor not be strong enough? Just curious.
Thank you. Yes a windshield wiper motor should have enough torque to work.
How much in pounds can that lift?
Or power in N ?
It would lift me off the ground and I was about 220 then.
Thank you 👍
Really good work!!!! I would like to ask that could we make this linear actuator with the stroke length is 4m? I want to make it for my sprayer to treat my tree which is 4m in hight. Thank you so much!
Thanks!
You could make it as long as you would like depending on the length of pipe and all thread rod you can find. I would recommend using grade 8 bolt of possible.
I have about a 1000LBS of equipment on heavy duty rollers, will this push it out 5feet and then retract it?
I would use larger pipe and bigger all thread rod. As long as it is beefy enough it should do the trick.
I know this was a long time back. It is awesome! Could you make a home/garage/shop/attic elevator from 4 of them? That would be a great project. That could be a span of more than 8' though; could something like that work. Or would you need a winch?
Possibly! I made a lifting roof on an rv one time that gave me a folding second floor. I used four of these and made them out of much bigger pipe. A winch would be easier for a garage lift though.
Now get rid of the drill and use a 12v windshield washing motor instead :)
That will work.
So awesome!! Do you have a video showing how to remove controls from the drill and making a button or switch to control?
Not yet! I cut the wires from the switch and actually removed the motor and gearbox from the drill. I then just ran the wires from the motor to the power source.
Luke have you done the second video on connecting to another drill...I'm trying to lift a camper shell and this looks like a great way to do it. Thanks.
Hope it helps you to get it working.
It would be helpful to explain how to determine the lengths of the conduits and threaded rod based on the open and closed distances.
You would want to make the threaded rod half the distance you want it to open. When it extends, it will double in size.
May i know the rpm of the drill you've used for this project?
I'm currently building a mountain on my model railroad and I think this will be helpful to raise and lower the mountain for access to train derailments. But it'll have to be scaled down made from plastic since it'll only need to lift 4 or 5 lbs.
sounds like a good idea.
@@lukeFugate If I want to lift a lid that's hinged on one end the shaft of the actuator needs a slot instead of just a simple hole since the angle of the actuator will change as the lid is raised up what do you think? The link here th-cam.com/video/RQS2z5pJTQE/w-d-xo.html
Excellent!!
👍👍
Hi luke quick question for you...will this work to lift a snow plow on a lawn tractor?
It should work for that. If it's going to be lifting a snow plow I would say it would be better to go up a couple of sizes on everything.
Nice build, very ingenious use of common materials. Awesome rain storm too, nice touch.
Thanks, can't really take credit for the rain storm though lol.
Hi Luke, a few quick questions for you. I tried making this and missed a step somewhere along the line. Initially, you had two nuts on each side of the washer. Am I correct that on the side closest to the inner pipe it's the nut furthest from the washer that's welded to the threaded rod? When complete, how many nuts should there be on the outside of the washer? It looks like you started with two, but towards the end of the video it looks like there's only one. Are either of the nuts on the outside of the washer welded to anything (i.e. washer or threaded rod)? I'm trying to make a small front end loader for a garden tractor and if I can figure out my mistake then a few of these running off of windshield wiper motors from the junk yard should be able to push the square tubing used as the frame. Your idea is absolutely superb... you may have saved me a ton since the front end loader should now come in at under $150 plus a few pieces of metal from my pile. Thanks for sharing it!
You could use one nut on the inside and one on the outside on either side of the washer as long as they are welded to the shaft. You want your welds on the side away from the washer so it can all spin freely against the washer. It would be smoother if the washer were replaced with a bearing as someone else suggested. For very heavy loads like your loader will be lifting I would go up a couple of sizes in all thread and pipe. Maybe 1 inch and inch and a half pipe, and 7/8" all thread rod.
I'm missing something... why doesn't the inner pipe just simply spin with the threaded rod, instead of actually extending and retracting?
**EDIT: OK, I just realized why, He is always holding the inner pipe which prevents it from spinning. This would work if both ends are connected to something where neither end can spin. In my case one end is mounted, but the other end won't touch anything until its extended, so this won't work for me. i'll have to think about it and figure out if there is a way to modify this design to make it work for what I need. Good Video though! Thanks for the ideas!
Hope it does inspire ideas. If there were some way to have a groove in one pipe that a pin could ride in. Or possibly using square tubing instead of round.
@@lukeFugate Yes! I thought about the groove when watching a video about how to rebuild a trailer jack. I don't have a way to make a depression or groove in a pipe. But what I thought trying was to weld two small round bar rods onto the inner pipe, and then weld a pin that could ride between them on the inside of the outer pipe. I think this might work, haven't got to that part of my project yet though. In any case, Thanks for the Informative Videos :-)
I think using square tubing instead of conduit would work to keep the end from spinning. That way you won't have to worry about making a groove.
@@lukeFugate yeah, been thinking about that. Would be easier. Guess I'll have to go buy some square tubing now... youtube makes me spend a lot of $... LoL
What size all thread did you use?
Excellent work Luke.
You made exactly that i need. I could not understand / listen about actual size of thread rod and their conduits exact lengths and widths. Please tell their exact sizes. Thanks for great work and sharing.
The conduit I used was a piece of 3/4" and a piece of 1/2". The length will depend on your project. The all thread rod I think was 3/8" and it needs to be about the same length or a little longer than the pipes. You could use bigger all thread rod as long as it will fit into the 1/2" conduit.
@@lukeFugate hi there. Thanks for your reply. I have made the linear actuator as you did. Can i share pics here air whatsapp number.
ok. i'm impressed and amazed. thanks for video.
Good job , great tutorial. Thanks luke
I am madhava Rao India you job is good
Good idea. I'm also looking to sun tracking device for my solar panels, kits are available on the internet but they are expensive. If some can give me any workable idea it will be very greatful. Thanks
I found this video for the same reasons you found Asim. Did you make it ?
@@xettex573 not yet xetter. I'm looking for a controll circuit which can controll leaner actuator Chinese kits are expensive what about you, did you make it.
@@Asimkhan-oj4di I found a really good link from "Gabriel Miller" on youtube. He made an Arduino circuit to control azimuth and elevation for a Steepers linear actuators . The control can be solar tracker or heliostat. Do you manage Arduino? regards !
did you make of video of the finished product? would love to see how you made the drill an on off switch
I did finish the project I built this for. I ended up using a shorter bolt and kind of changed the design. I did use the switch from the drill relocated so I could get to it though. This design worked but I wanted the whole thing hidden, so I re-designed it. Here is the video showing how I ended up doing it.th-cam.com/video/N0LPaDMV8LA/w-d-xo.html
@@lukeFugate amazing
cheers. you're the man!
you taught me more engineering than my college.thank you very much.just one question which type of motor should i use if i have to push or pull 20 kgs of weight using this?
Wow, thanks!
If you can find a heavier duty drill it would work well. Maybe go up at least one size on the pipes and all thread rod. One thing that is very important with this design is lubrication. You have to make sure the all thread is very well lubricated at all times.
@@lukeFugate thanks man and keep making more awesome videos.
I want to ..lift 15 kg weight.
Is it normal 12v dc motor is ok for that
It depends on the motor. If it is a large motor or has gears then it should. A cordless drill motor that still has the gear system would be perfect.
@@lukeFugate tq
You just saved me a bunch of money for a project I'm planning
Dang son you love that there conduit You come up with some cool ideas them duke dogs look wet have a good one
I was an electrician for years and whenever I need metallic pipe it's always the first thing I think of. The dogs have like four places they can go to get out of the rain but they still come out in it and run around. Daisy is terrified of thunder though and she stayed right there under the work bench the whole time shaking.
Very cool I'd like to use one of these to lift the plow on my small garden tractor but I would have no way to power a drill or electric motor, do you think mounting a hand crank on the end would work as well.
You could use a hand crank but it would be awfully slow. A cordless drill would also work.
88 Datsun 720. Use a 12v windshield washer motor in place of the drill.
Awesome job! How much weight would you estimate one this size could lift/move?
Not sure what the maximum lift would be, but it is more than my weight which is 220lbs. This would depend on the materials used and the power of the drill.
Alright, cool. Thanks 👍🏼
How much weight it can lift ?
Depends on the size of the pipes and all thread rod. The bigger you go the more it can lift. This one I think would lift me off the ground, but if I wanted to lift more I would step up the pipe and all thread size.
How much do you think it can lift?
It wouldn't be able to lift anything really heavy. It will lift me off the ground no problem but that's only around 220 pounds. If it were intended for heavy duty applications I would recommend going up to a 1 inch and 1 1/4 inch pipe and as big of a all thread rod as will fit in the 1 inch pipe loosely.
Amazing. Thank you so much.
Glad you like it!
nice!
Nice job!
Thanks from Ukraine.)
Thank you.
love the inspector. .mr hound.
lol highest qualified inspector in the state.
genius! thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
pretty cool project for a rainy day
Thanks, seems like all it does lately is rain.
i wants to build a automatic centre satnd with help of actuator .what i should do?
What kind of stand are you wanting? will it be lifting anything heavy?
if the motor have to lift a weight of 2000,which material you would prefer?
SaRtHaK ShUkLa I would suggest using maybe a car scissor jack or something like that. I don't think the conduit pipe will hold up under that much weight.
Nice
Thanks!
Good stuff, buddy! Love your videos.
Thanks, I hope to get it in the van and working soon.
if i dont have a drill machine what other thing i can use ?
Possibly a windshield wiper motor, or even a kids ride on toy like a power wheels motor they have enough torque.
thanks
you are brilliant
Thanks.
wonder if 12v power window drives would work ? or a wiper motor ?
I would say either one would work with a little adaptation.
luke Fugate what makes the drill motor nice is the easily contolled speed; I tried another dc motor and could not get the speed down sufficiently...might be alright with your design.
Philip Jones you can buy online or salvage newer 12v dc windshield wiper motors, they usually have 2 or 3 running speeds. cheers!
@@phil8911 you could stagger yer motor with a gears welded to a drill bit, connected to another gear mounted to a wood or metal block with a dowel screw. You could mount as many of them gears staggered as you need till you get the speed yer looking for. The gears you could get at a junk yard, just make sure the teeth mesh with each other. Or even easier use a potentiometer from and old hifi volume knob to control the flow of electricity to the motor. Course you take a chance of burning up yer motor that way if you're trying to lift to much too quickly.
Luke, you're amazing! I don't know where you get these ideas, but the stuff you put together and make work is mind boggling.
A lot of my ideas believe it or not are from dreams at night. I'll wake up in the morning and before the dream fades I write down the idea. I think this one was from a dream a long time ago.
did you know the fellow that invented planetary gears (think automatic transmissions) had that idea come to him the same way... so definitely write down the things like that !
very cool, I didn't know that.
luke Fugate great project's content
your idea came just on time to be of use on my welding cart prototype project
i added a mig welder on top of it with a cabinet for tools at the bottom
because i remodeled my mobile work bench that have a big vise (staying there), a 4" grinder w/ a new 8" and a bench top drill press w/ xy vise now, for an arbor press then i have some extra equipment laying around my garage (grinder + arbor press)
so i decided to add a reclinable platform for that grinder with a flip flop top to place another tool with it as well
on the back of the cart im mounting the grinder and on the other side a small vise - i would like it to make it a 3 items (triangular) revolving base (+ arbor press) but it will be bulky i guess
with 2 tools attached to it, it would easily hide itself inside the lower cabinet compartment and a guard cover
such devices will be attached to the 1/8 steel plate base w/ a sliding plate moved by heavy duty glides too
im also planning to move the plate with an old timing chain kit from a z24 nissan motor i'd recently rebuilt and i thought of a linear actuator mechanism to mobilize the chain system part - like the gondola system on the ferris wheel kind of
i will put your idea of the actuator to work with the timing chain
thank you for this great tip
Isn't conduit zinc-plated and therefore hazardous to weld because the fumes are poisonous? Or was there an unshown step of grinding off the plating before you welded it?
Good point! I usually grind off the surfaces I weld to but I didn't show it. I would say as long as you are welding in a well-ventilated area it should be fine.
He has not given a full demonstration.
What didn't I show?