I think he should drop the intro maybe, i think it makes people skip his videos because it’s not straight to the point. Maybe a summaru of What he did last time would be better. Like matt armstrong does
Jeff, I am a mechanical engineer and there is no such thing as “too fast” or “too big” of a radiator. The convective heat transfer function (transfer of heat from a surface into a fluid, liquid or gas) has a velocity variable, the higher the velocity, the higher the heat transfer. Think about sticking your hand out the window of a moving car, the faster the car goes, the colder your hand feels, even with a constant outside temperature. That’s because the faster moving air is removing more energy from the surface of your hand. As far as the size of the radiator, convective heat transfer is also dependent upon the surface are that the fluid is in contact with.
That was my (vague) understanding too - I have heard the "too fast" thing before but I wasn't that convinced. But this mod has worked - any ideas why? I'm lost on this one 🤷♀
As I understand it, it doesn't cool the motor very much if the whole sistem is roughly the same temperature. He basicaly made a bigger difference between inlet and outlet temperature so water can absorb more heat from the motor. At first I couldn't believe what he was saying but we've seen the results.
Also an engineer here (automotive, oem). Unless you're getting cavitation in the radiator (unlikely), lower coolant ∆t means better cooling. To improve cooling you need to move more air across the radiator, more coolant through it or improve the heat transfer efficiency with a different core design. Which one of those depends on the problem. If your coolant out is more than 5c lower than coolant in, you need more flow. I would start with taking out the flow restrictor.
Glad you're getting the issues sorted bit by bit, Jeff. This is your forever car, so you literally have forever to sort it out fully. Lol Hope the Yaris rack fixes the steering. Cheers, mate
The amount of turns lock-to-lock takes me back pretty well most (Australian) cars from the sixties and seventies. Always fun trying to catch a sudden slide......
Nice work Jeff, I think what you did was making more use of the radiator surface by directing the coolant through the whole radiator instead of the shortest route through the radiator avoiding dead flow areas.
Agreed, I suspect the larger part of the coolant was taking the path of least resistance down one side across the bottom and out. Checking the temperature at different parts of the radiator might have revealed relative hot/cold spots.
My Sunbeam Tiger was notorious for overheating and living in Arizona where summer temps can be over 115F i did something different to fix it. I added an extra heater core under the car. It has fins to run the air through it and an auxiliary fan for stop and go. Works like a charm. Used flexible copper tubing to run the coolant.
It's so close! And Binky is teasing a return, just the now! You can do this Jeff! Just because Nik has that "Big Bracket Maker" trophy isn't going to scare you! Mrs. Jeff, your Italian gets more original every time!
I must have watched every single Binky video after like the first couple if that... my God that took some time. Then they just stopped, went a different direction. Are they back on Binky now?
3.5 turns lock to lock sounds about right for a 60/70s car, but without power steering. On a side note, I had a bit of trouble getting used to an Escort quick rack back in the rallying days, eventually got there though.
Im finishing watching this now, back in the day this is exactly what I did when building radiators with side tanks, would have said that Sunday, but I'm behind lol.
For reference the Toyota MR2 Spyder has a factory quick rack. I can't remember the turns lock to look but it isn't many. Just another may be useful piece of information.
Well done with the cooling although the physics understanding is not correct. If you remove the restrictor to coolant flow it will probably work even better. Another commenter mentioned a very relevant point that previously the water flow was inadequate in parts of the radiator, chiefly taking the easiest path. Just a random point, in old BMC Minis people would remove thermostats to try to improve cooling, the opposite would happen due to turbulence created near the pump actually impeding the flow. A few very good points here in your comment section. A great project, admire the way you find a problem and keep the motivation going to sort it out. The car still sounds remarkably Italian!
Superb job on the cooling old boy. Now to fix the sound tone - It will be costly but a titanium exhaust from the headers back would create a Ferrari rasp and a more genuine note because of the thin walled properties of titanium, yes they sound horrible on Japanese sports car but superb on a Ferrari, god speed.
Hi Jeff, are you sure that the removal of the thermostat isn’t your problem? Depending on its design it can have a big effect on how the coolant flows around the engine and hence how it cools. I admire your perseverance - keep going!
It does on some engines. Some bypass thermostats help distribute the coolant flow proportionalty between the head and the block. If not fitted it can overcool or let overheat either the block or the heads.
Good save on the radiator. I have a triple pass radiator in my classic American muscle car and it made a tremendous difference in keeping the engine cool.
Jeff I used to work at Aussie desert cooler. I noticed the block off plates you welded in are in the wrong spots. The block off plate under the radiator cap should be higher than the plate on the other tank. Draw it on paper to make sense. The top section is not flowing theway you think.
I don't think the cap makes a difference, the higher block-off place is at the inlet side, the lower plate is at the outlet side, this ensures that the coolant has to travel through the radiator completely from inlet to outlet.
1:30 - and _smell_ them! Re. the mufflers - they'll be quiet to start with but get louder and louder as they carbon up, ending up as practically straight-through - I had one on my Yamaha Fazer back in the day, lovely sound to start with but after less than 1000m I was getting old-fashioned looks from the plod.
EDIT: Stoked the radiator mod’s helped! As others have theorised, I think part of the heat issue may be the air not being able to escape the engine bay. I think the best way to solve it without ruining the looks would be to lift the rear bonnet latches up and down on some kind of actuators (have it controlled by bay temp). Should be pretty easy to test before committing by making some little extensions.
Your best bet for a choice of steering ratio is to look at RWD original Escort racks. Because of the rally heritage you can buy a selection of racks in 2.9, 2.4 or 2.2 turns lock to lock. You need to check carefully for bump steer, the height of the rack and the length of the tie rods will be critical, having changed to a rack from a steering box. Rally Design is one supplier with a good selection in both LHD and RHD.
Hello Jeff, glad you had a good time in Canberra. Thanks for sharing a flavour of the event with us. It was exciting to see you driving your Alfarrari on the circuit. I'm eager to see/hear more of her. Very glad you appear to have cured the cooling issues. Great job mate, well done.
Hi Jeff, if I could comment about your exhaust note “problem”, I don’t think the issue is your headers, your main pipes are too large in diameter, which creates the low pitch droning sound. In my experience a smaller diameter pipe raises the pitch, which will make it sound sharper and crisper. It’s not a race engine, and you’re not going to be using 7000-8000 revs very often, so you don’t need the flow of such large pipes. For a 3.6 litre V8 with about 400 bhp, your exhaust pipes only need to be 2.25 or 2.5” diameter each (max). You’ll flatten out the power and torque curves without losing much if any top end. Otherwise, love your work, keep going!! Cheers Bill
They are 2.5". It is less the tone that I am missing, it is the alignment of the pulses if that makes sense. It doesn't sound Ferrari, like even a loud Challenge car sounds.
Hi mate I built a 81 tg Gemini with a commodore vr v6 3.8 l in it and had the same problem with getting hot I’m a refrigeration Machanic by trade so what I did was bought a heat exchanger 60 plates and tee it into my hoses and it works a treat it dropped my temperature by 11 degrees I’m so happy with it now as before on a 30 degree day the temperature would skyrocket now on a 30 degree day it sits at 82 degrees and the fan cycles on and off 👍👍have a look into it might be good for your car
Your excitment is so damn infectious..... gets me motivated to fo work on my Z when im having a issues with the restoration. Keep these videos coming!!!
The triple pass radiator trick worked great. What a relief that must be! And such a fairly simple mod even. Plus the better fan to boot. That's awesome. Sounds great too, least to me. Looking forward to seeing a steering fix. That sounds like will be more complex, things being so tight in there.
Some would say your radiator modification is FANtastic. Haha, see what I did there! Good to see you making headway on all the little issues. Love this build. Now go back to DATSUN! WE WANT A 510! Ok, maybe just me 😂
Nicely done Jeff!👌 Glad you were able to sort out both those issues… cooling especially! Great to have that solved finally, looking forward to seeing the steering addressed next time 😎💪
Great work and nicely done Jeff. The real test for the cooling will be stop and go traffic in the summer heat. I still think you need louvers in the hood to let escape heat (heat rise). Keep up the good work & Godspeed from California 🇺🇸
Look for a rack from a car with an electric power steering column. They often are less turns left to right. On my Giulia i used one from an Opel Corsa B and that gave a good direct feel. One of the issues from going from a steering box to a rack&pinion is that the amount of movement is less on the steering rack. On most cars with steering racks you get rather small steering arms on the knuckle so the stroke on the rack can be smaller. The steering arms on a steering box car tend to be longer, requiring a lot more stroke.
Hi Jeff. Great job, solving the noise and cooling issues. Prior to the silenser install, the sound of it striked me like a real healthy Alfa from way back when. Not bad, but now the yellow V8 has now become a Much better V8 sound from the exhaust pipes... Love it.. Have a great sunday.. Greetings from Denmark🤩
For the steering if you are open to a powered option, consider Ez Electric Power Steering. I have used it for my classic car and its works really well.
Wow! That's amazing with the cooling working. That wasn't at all on my radar , that the radiator was sort of too big and letting the coolant pass through too quickly. But I am not a mechanical engineer, am I 😁😉. All these things engineers engineer into cars to make them all work optimally. 🙂
I converted my 1966 Alfa 2600 using a rack and pinion from a Subaru Liberty and had the same problem of "slowness". I redrilled the steering arms to gain a shorter throw but because of subframe clearance prolems, I had to make space to shift the rack aft to prevent reverse accerman and lower the lower whishbones to prevent bump steer but it now works. Good luck, I'll be watching with interest.
We had electric water pumps in the past and put them in the bin. They pulse at full speed and cavitate the water. You can mount the electric pumps so they are in the bleed position this is better. But highly recommend the bin for the best location. More expensive electric water pumps have there own ecus and speed controller so they start at slow speed like mechanical one that speed up with the revs. All the best
When i built my Austin Healey special I though it had direct steering. My Alfa 916 Spider has even more direct steering and the rack is small. It is power assisted but some of the Alfa models out there being wrecked might be a thought. Now the logic behind the cooling is very impressive. You must be really thrilled to have thought your way around that one. Well done. Finally the exhaust sounds really great at the moment. They sound different outside the car under load anyway. Full marks.
It's interesting to go through the comments here regarding the over-heating problem - so many different takes on what works or should work. Intuitively, what you've done makes sense, so hopefully you've got the problem licked now. Exhaust seems noticably quieter. Shame that the tone isn't as melodious as the original Ferrari, but it's still a beast man!
Well done! The car will completely transform once the steering is corrected 👍🏻 I think you’ll need a drive by road test for sound, exhaust sounds different when you’re not in the car. I do agree with the earlier comment about staying on the Alferrari from a viewers perspective, but I also understand what “taking a break” is and you needed that. Always great content though Jeff! G’day Mate 👋🏻
Great news on figuring out the cooling system! It calls for an occasion were you could make the statement to Mrs. Jeff that I occasionally say to my wife “See, I’m not just pretty “😀😀 I laugh. See roles her eyes, smiles.
Jeff, I don't know weather I've mentioned before but back in the 70's A fellow racing an XD Falcon group A 351 had overheating problems and he tried all sorts of things to fix it, A guy from drag racing suggested reducing the impellers in the water pump by about a third which fixed the problem. It slowed the water flowing through the radiator giving it time to cool, you choice to see if that fixes it.
This reminds me of running temporarily without a thermostat. With no restriction. There was too much water flow to efficiently transfer the heat different cause but similar concern.
Reducing the flow of air or water will never increase the amount of heat removed (ie drop engine temperature). What may have been at work was the modified impeller reduced turbulence or cavitation in the radiator water flow. This will certainly improve efficiency of the system.
@petergoose8164 I try my best to get my facts straight. in this case I know for a fact when I took out the thermostat my engine did not cool as well. That's when i learned about restrictors. having heard your comment I did some research and now I see that perhaps the transfer Rate of heat out of the engine into the coolant is a constant however with more coolant flowing past you're putting the same amount of heat into A Larger quantity of coolant In this case perhaps the exact issue was too much flow through the radiator to Expel that heat. seems like Jeff did the right fix in the right location.
two 9 inch holes in shroud has less (127 sq in) square area than one 14 inch hole (151 sq in) so it is a profit. More flow from 14 inch fan is second benefit
Thinking that the Ewp isn't cutting it. A belt driven pump might pull 3 or more kW. Guessing this pump has a 500W motor? If you wanted to try slowing the flow down you could already with the pump. It is a very thick core for sure and they aren't that efficient for that reason. Maybe the triple pass will require even more pump power! If you wanted to go all in with that core, split it vertically instead so that the full face sees the full air flow twice...... Means you will have the inlet and outlet on the same side, that might be an issue.....
Well done on sorting the cooling. I would never have tried that, it goes against everything I know (or thought I did!!). I would have removed the restrictor to increase flow rate. You’ve actually reduced the total cooling capacity of the rad. As the water is now cooler coming out of the rad, the avg temp of the water in it is lower, so the temp diff between air and rad temp is lower, reducing the cooling capacity. I guess the engine needs that cooler water to give up its heat effectively but it doesn’t explain why it was ok under load - with the leccy pump flow rate is (or should be) independent of engine speed. I’ve always fitted the smallest rad I can get away with so guess I’ve never come across (or had to deal with!) issues having one too big!!! Well done though, I’m glad you sorted it.and keep up the good work. Cheers.
There is another school of thought with the cooling shroud, delete it completely and hang the fan against the radiator. Next make an under tray which extends to the back of the engine but open at the rear and covers the engine completely. The theory is that there is high pressure air just under the front of the car which effectively pressurises the engine bay stopping hot air escaping. The rear of the engine area is now low pressure and effectively pulls the hot air out.
He already had the undertray/bash plate that he took off a few episodes ago to try and fix the cooling problem. It covered the from through passed the crossmember and opened at the back.
Great work Jeff. You need to know the original spec for that engine cooling properties, FW-pump capacity and flowrate, radiator flow characteristics and capacity, this is not rocket science but it will save you from lots of trouble. Can highly recommend Setrab AB radiators. Also coolant from Evanscoolants, classic cool 180. All the best and good luck.
I used a power steering rack without the pump for a racecar, because it was significantly faster than the manual steer. There are quick-racks available foe escorts rally cars and the like. Modern electric power racks should also be considered.
Hi saint Jeff. Glad you sorted the coolant issue. I do have a concern regarding the core baffles. This might work on idle but could restrict water flow at higher rpms. The fact the alfaFerrari cooled sufficiently on idle and overheats upon driving suggest an airflow problem through the radiator and out through the rear of the car. .. In the past a car that overheats on the motorway was due to a worn water pump not adequately flowing water at high rpms. .. Steering rack. I think the issue woth the rack is the ratio of number of turns lock to lock and degree of wheel travel per movement of the steering wheel. You need a "quick rack" with a low steering ratio. . You may be able to re-engineer your current rack by changing the internal pinion on the end of the steering shaft column. This would be time consuming and require alot of research, and machining of different pinion gears. .. Also that vanity cover over the radiator might also be restricting airflow up over the radiator and through to the hood. Maybe a small vent along that cover might also help with the cooling. .. Its the efficient speed of airflow through the radiator and out under the rear speed that is partly the cooling issue, because the engine is running faster and under load creating more heat. .. To me the AlfaFerrari in the video DID sound like a Ferrari.. definitely better with the muffler add ons...😎
Cooling idea: In some 105 racecars I have seen holes in the cowl in front of the windscreen in the enginebay side. This will ventilate hot air out though the freshair screen. The area i front of windscreen is usually a low pressure area, so the air should flow out nicely.
Nice bandaid with the radiator, but it still does not confront the problem that a crossflow radiator presents. The old top bottom tank radiators are by far superior as long as you have a proper pump. From our experience the electric pumps do not provide enough head pressure. You need to see inside the coolant passage around the valve seats to fully understand the need for a high head pressure and high flowing pump. Nucleate boiling is a real thing that causes cylinder leak down to occur when the boiling around the exhaust valve seat is not removed with sufficent pressure and flow. The top bottom tank radiator allows for expansion room in the top tank as you do not seem to have an expansion tank in the system. 1 liter of expansion is a minimum for a naturally aspirated engine.
Triple pass is definitely a bonus, I still think that the pump might be cavitating. , it's up high and much as it should be able to modulate for the required temp, it will be dumb if it's not pushing max capacity.. An 1/8" bleed connecting from adjacent to the pump and down to the Block inlet should ensure that it's not an issue.
Hi Jeff, when l straight piped my camaro l used to insert eBay motorbike baffles into the muffler deletes when inspection time came around, I didn't weld them in cus they came straight back out the next day, but they sure stopped her snarling and could have been welded in I had been soft enough But was easier to use them cheap eBay baffles than hump and struggle with big bulky mufflers
Hi Jeff i saw that the engine temp was 80 degs C, that would be a normal cars cruising speed, the thermo will come on, I would set it at 95 and off at 87 deg c where you would be in traffic at a stop light or bumper to bumper ...
I found that also adding oil cooler with fan cools engine temp. Also I had a spal fan on an enclosed radiator by race radiators, this kept my big hp problem motors cool on the street upto 38c Melb weather
I know that poping the back of the bonnet causes a low pressure zone forcing air back in but that's only when the cars moving. Your car's overheating stationary so may help release the heat.
I feel Jeff needs to be way more popular than he is. Watching his work and seeing his attention to detail is inspiring
Agreed
Very inspiring!
I think he should drop the intro maybe, i think it makes people skip his videos because it’s not straight to the point. Maybe a summaru of What he did last time would be better. Like matt armstrong does
I think he might need to hire someone that understands TH-cam marketing a little better
Jeff, I am a mechanical engineer and there is no such thing as “too fast” or “too big” of a radiator. The convective heat transfer function (transfer of heat from a surface into a fluid, liquid or gas) has a velocity variable, the higher the velocity, the higher the heat transfer. Think about sticking your hand out the window of a moving car, the faster the car goes, the colder your hand feels, even with a constant outside temperature. That’s because the faster moving air is removing more energy from the surface of your hand.
As far as the size of the radiator, convective heat transfer is also dependent upon the surface are that the fluid is in contact with.
That was my (vague) understanding too - I have heard the "too fast" thing before but I wasn't that convinced. But this mod has worked - any ideas why? I'm lost on this one 🤷♀
As I understand it, it doesn't cool the motor very much if the whole sistem is roughly the same temperature. He basicaly made a bigger difference between inlet and outlet temperature so water can absorb more heat from the motor. At first I couldn't believe what he was saying but we've seen the results.
Laminar flow can allow the hot water to pass over the cooler water. So water speed is an issue .
Mechanical engineer or not, you literally just saw it work.
Also an engineer here (automotive, oem). Unless you're getting cavitation in the radiator (unlikely), lower coolant ∆t means better cooling.
To improve cooling you need to move more air across the radiator, more coolant through it or improve the heat transfer efficiency with a different core design.
Which one of those depends on the problem. If your coolant out is more than 5c lower than coolant in, you need more flow. I would start with taking out the flow restrictor.
Glad you're getting the issues sorted bit by bit, Jeff. This is your forever car, so you literally have forever to sort it out fully. Lol
Hope the Yaris rack fixes the steering. Cheers, mate
Would be interesting looking at the cooling system through an infra-red camera.
The Alferrari sounded surprisingly like a four cylinder!
It’s a flat plane crank. So it runs like two four cylinders phased together. The big American sounding V8’s are cross plane.
He also plated between the xpipe so the banks no longer merge
That was my first thought, too.
@@neilmchardy9061 - Correct.
I had cooling issues since the day of the build. Your success sorting it out motivated me to get back to garage. Thanks man!
The amount of turns lock-to-lock takes me back pretty well most (Australian) cars from the sixties and seventies. Always fun trying to catch a sudden slide......
Salut Jeff, toujours un grand plaisir de voir ton sourire après la résolution d’un problème, tu es un exemple de persévérance, bravo 👏👏👏👏👏
Nice work Jeff, I think what you did was making more use of the radiator surface by directing the coolant through the whole radiator instead of the shortest route through the radiator avoiding dead flow areas.
Agreed, I suspect the larger part of the coolant was taking the path of least resistance down one side across the bottom and out. Checking the temperature at different parts of the radiator might have revealed relative hot/cold spots.
My Sunbeam Tiger was notorious for overheating and living in Arizona where summer temps can be over 115F i did something different to fix it. I added an extra heater core under the car. It has fins to run the air through it and an auxiliary fan for stop and go. Works like a charm. Used flexible copper tubing to run the coolant.
It's so close! And Binky is teasing a return, just the now! You can do this Jeff! Just because Nik has that "Big Bracket Maker" trophy isn't going to scare you! Mrs. Jeff, your Italian gets more original every time!
I must have watched every single Binky video after like the first couple if that... my God that took some time. Then they just stopped, went a different direction. Are they back on Binky now?
For a minute I wondered why you painted the rad before the pressure test, then I remembered "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing twice". 🤣
3.5 turns lock to lock sounds about right for a 60/70s car, but without power steering.
On a side note, I had a bit of trouble getting used to an Escort quick rack back in the rallying days, eventually got there though.
Im finishing watching this now, back in the day this is exactly what I did when building radiators with side tanks, would have said that Sunday, but I'm behind lol.
For reference the Toyota MR2 Spyder has a factory quick rack. I can't remember the turns lock to look but it isn't many. Just another may be useful piece of information.
Great solution to the overheating problem…I would never have thought of that… well done😁👍
So cool to see you go from thinking all was lost to being able to run it on the track and properly drive it a bit anyway.
What a difference a month (and a few small wins) make for some relief of the Psyche!
Well done with the cooling although the physics understanding is not correct. If you remove the restrictor to coolant flow it will probably work even better. Another commenter mentioned a very relevant point that previously the water flow was inadequate in parts of the radiator, chiefly taking the easiest path. Just a random point, in old BMC Minis people would remove thermostats to try to improve cooling, the opposite would happen due to turbulence created near the pump actually impeding the flow. A few very good points here in your comment section. A great project, admire the way you find a problem and keep the motivation going to sort it out. The car still sounds remarkably Italian!
Superb job on the cooling old boy. Now to fix the sound tone - It will be costly but a titanium exhaust from the headers back would create a Ferrari rasp and a more genuine note because of the thin walled properties of titanium, yes they sound horrible on Japanese sports car but superb on a Ferrari, god speed.
3:27 nice you got to have a drive with the others Jeff!
👍💪✌
Hi Jeff, are you sure that the removal of the thermostat isn’t your problem? Depending on its design it can have a big effect on how the coolant flows around the engine and hence how it cools. I admire your perseverance - keep going!
Electric water pump doesn't require a thermostat
It does on some engines. Some bypass thermostats help distribute the coolant flow proportionalty between the head and the block. If not fitted it can overcool or let overheat either the block or the heads.
Nice , such a great feeling when you sort out a anoying issue after you had a project car running for a bit.
Good save on the radiator. I have a triple pass radiator in my classic American muscle car and it made a tremendous difference in keeping the engine cool.
Jeff I used to work at Aussie desert cooler. I noticed the block off plates you welded in are in the wrong spots. The block off plate under the radiator cap should be higher than the plate on the other tank. Draw it on paper to make sense. The top section is not flowing theway you think.
I don't think the cap makes a difference, the higher block-off place is at the inlet side, the lower plate is at the outlet side, this ensures that the coolant has to travel through the radiator completely from inlet to outlet.
The inlet is on the opposite side of the cap in this case. Cap is probably in the wrong spot, but I am not overly concerned.
I looked at it again and i was wrong..keep up the good work. I'll shut up now..lol
1:30 - and _smell_ them!
Re. the mufflers - they'll be quiet to start with but get louder and louder as they carbon up, ending up as practically straight-through - I had one on my Yamaha Fazer back in the day, lovely sound to start with but after less than 1000m I was getting old-fashioned looks from the plod.
Impressive how you deal with issues. Great content.
Great work on the cooling, would never have thought of that! Couldn’t get my head around it at first but it work! Well done 👍
Hi Jeff, the best moment of the video is when you are happy with the cooling.👍
So cool to see and hear the Alfarrari on the track. Even if you couldn't fully enjoy it yet.
Glad you were able to solve both the noise and cooling problem, and great to see you driving on a track 👍🏻🙂
It is vitally important to look at our flaps.
Great news on the cooling, that car sounds very "Alfa" for a V8 Ferrari, so well done!
That was a very clever solution for the radiator. Seems so logical in hindsight, makes you wonder why that's not standard on a radiator of that size.
She sounds awesome, Jeff and she'll be sweet once all the issues are sorted. Cheers. Leigh.
EDIT: Stoked the radiator mod’s helped! As others have theorised, I think part of the heat issue may be the air not being able to escape the engine bay. I think the best way to solve it without ruining the looks would be to lift the rear bonnet latches up and down on some kind of actuators (have it controlled by bay temp). Should be pretty easy to test before committing by making some little extensions.
Am also glad you're quieting it down a bit, it is a discomfort on longer hauls, just like your 911, a tad too loud.
Your best bet for a choice of steering ratio is to look at RWD original Escort racks. Because of the rally heritage you can buy a selection of racks in 2.9, 2.4 or 2.2 turns lock to lock. You need to check carefully for bump steer, the height of the rack and the length of the tie rods will be critical, having changed to a rack from a steering box. Rally Design is one supplier with a good selection in both LHD and RHD.
Hello Jeff, glad you had a good time in Canberra. Thanks for sharing a flavour of the event with us. It was exciting to see you driving your Alfarrari on the circuit. I'm eager to see/hear more of her.
Very glad you appear to have cured the cooling issues.
Great job mate, well done.
Love the persistence to sort things out, the rad mod is really good! from a strangely warm England.
Having overheating problems myself, I was going to suggest a dual pass radiator
Good stuff
Hi Jeff, if I could comment about your exhaust note “problem”, I don’t think the issue is your headers, your main pipes are too large in diameter, which creates the low pitch droning sound. In my experience a smaller diameter pipe raises the pitch, which will make it sound sharper and crisper. It’s not a race engine, and you’re not going to be using 7000-8000 revs very often, so you don’t need the flow of such large pipes. For a 3.6 litre V8 with about 400 bhp, your exhaust pipes only need to be 2.25 or 2.5” diameter each (max). You’ll flatten out the power and torque curves without losing much if any top end.
Otherwise, love your work, keep going!!
Cheers
Bill
They are 2.5". It is less the tone that I am missing, it is the alignment of the pulses if that makes sense. It doesn't sound Ferrari, like even a loud Challenge car sounds.
Very happy for you Jeff, great win with the cooling !
Great fix Jeff, almost done now.
Hi mate I built a 81 tg Gemini with a commodore vr v6 3.8 l in it and had the same problem with getting hot I’m a refrigeration Machanic by trade so what I did was bought a heat exchanger 60 plates and tee it into my hoses and it works a treat it dropped my temperature by 11 degrees I’m so happy with it now as before on a 30 degree day the temperature would skyrocket now on a 30 degree day it sits at 82 degrees and the fan cycles on and off 👍👍have a look into it might be good for your car
I have found water weter aditive helps as it reduces vapour bubbles on the metal surface which impedes heat transfer.
Your excitment is so damn infectious..... gets me motivated to fo work on my Z when im having a issues with the restoration. Keep these videos coming!!!
YEA BUDDY! Congratulations on getting the cooling sorted! Excellent problem solving and execution! Love the build. 😀👍👍
The triple pass radiator trick worked great. What a relief that must be! And such a fairly simple mod even. Plus the better fan to boot. That's awesome.
Sounds great too, least to me. Looking forward to seeing a steering fix. That sounds like will be more complex, things being so tight in there.
Hello there Jeff, you're probably the greatest fabricator that I've seen. Nothing like that here in the states, except for autotopiala..
Some would say your radiator modification is FANtastic. Haha, see what I did there! Good to see you making headway on all the little issues. Love this build. Now go back to DATSUN! WE WANT A 510! Ok, maybe just me 😂
Great work Jeff, glad you sorted the overheating problem.
Nicely done Jeff!👌 Glad you were able to sort out both those issues… cooling especially! Great to have that solved finally, looking forward to seeing the steering addressed next time 😎💪
Thanks mate. Already working on plans for that :D
Great work and nicely done Jeff. The real test for the cooling will be stop and go traffic in the summer heat. I still think you need louvers in the hood to let escape heat (heat rise). Keep up the good work & Godspeed from California 🇺🇸
Look for a rack from a car with an electric power steering column. They often are less turns left to right.
On my Giulia i used one from an Opel Corsa B and that gave a good direct feel.
One of the issues from going from a steering box to a rack&pinion is that the amount of movement is less on the steering rack. On most cars with steering racks you get rather small steering arms on the knuckle so the stroke on the rack can be smaller. The steering arms on a steering box car tend to be longer, requiring a lot more stroke.
Hi Jeff. Great job, solving the noise and cooling issues. Prior to the silenser install, the sound of it striked me like a real healthy Alfa from way back when. Not bad, but now the yellow V8 has now become a Much better V8 sound from the exhaust pipes... Love it.. Have a great sunday.. Greetings from Denmark🤩
For the steering if you are open to a powered option, consider Ez Electric Power Steering. I have used it for my classic car and its works really well.
Already has power steering, well covered in videos ;)
Rad mods are like a v12 jaguar rad they have two top hoses coolant then zig zags through the rad then out of one bottom hose good result
Wow! That's amazing with the cooling working. That wasn't at all on my radar , that the radiator was sort of too big and letting the coolant pass through too quickly. But I am not a mechanical engineer, am I 😁😉. All these things engineers engineer into cars to make them all work optimally. 🙂
Hopefully that will fix your cooling issues. If not you may can use something like track spec louvers to help get some of the heat from the engine bay
I am a You tube armchair enjuneer and I say if it works it works. Nice job Jeff!!
Proud of you buddy. Great thinking on the coolant velocity and lack of heat exchange.
Thats awesome! Way to go! No just fix the steering and back to detail work!!! Great job!
I converted my 1966 Alfa 2600 using a rack and pinion from a Subaru Liberty and had the same problem of "slowness". I redrilled the steering arms to gain a shorter throw but because of subframe clearance prolems, I had to make space to shift the rack aft to prevent reverse accerman and lower the lower whishbones to prevent bump steer but it now works. Good luck, I'll be watching with interest.
We had electric water pumps in the past and put them in the bin. They pulse at full speed and cavitate the water. You can mount the electric pumps so they are in the bleed position this is better. But highly recommend the bin for the best location. More expensive electric water pumps have there own ecus and speed controller so they start at slow speed like mechanical one that speed up with the revs. All the best
When i built my Austin Healey special I though it had direct steering. My Alfa 916 Spider has even more direct steering and the rack is small. It is power assisted but some of the Alfa models out there being wrecked might be a thought. Now the logic behind the cooling is very impressive. You must be really thrilled to have thought your way around that one. Well done. Finally the exhaust sounds really great at the moment. They sound different outside the car under load anyway. Full marks.
It's interesting to go through the comments here regarding the over-heating problem - so many different takes on what works or should work. Intuitively, what you've done makes sense, so hopefully you've got the problem licked now. Exhaust seems noticably quieter. Shame that the tone isn't as melodious as the original Ferrari, but it's still a beast man!
Well done! The car will completely transform once the steering is corrected 👍🏻 I think you’ll need a drive by road test for sound, exhaust sounds different when you’re not in the car. I do agree with the earlier comment about staying on the Alferrari from a viewers perspective, but I also understand what “taking a break” is and you needed that. Always great content though Jeff! G’day Mate 👋🏻
Great idea with the radiator Jeff
I’ll put that one in the memory banks for my build.
Keep up the great work brother
Great news on figuring out the cooling system!
It calls for an occasion were you could make the statement to Mrs. Jeff that I occasionally say to my wife “See, I’m not just pretty “😀😀 I laugh. See roles her eyes, smiles.
Jeff, I don't know weather I've mentioned before but back in the 70's A fellow racing an XD Falcon group A 351 had overheating problems and he tried all sorts of things to fix it, A guy from drag racing suggested reducing the impellers in the water pump by about a third which fixed the problem. It slowed the water flowing through the radiator giving it time to cool, you choice to see if that fixes it.
This reminds me of running temporarily without a thermostat. With no restriction. There was too much water flow to efficiently transfer the heat different cause but similar concern.
Reducing the flow of air or water will never increase the amount of heat removed (ie drop engine temperature). What may have been at work was the modified impeller reduced turbulence or cavitation in the radiator water flow. This will certainly improve efficiency of the system.
@petergoose8164 I try my best to get my facts straight. in this case I know for a fact when I took out the thermostat my engine did not cool as well. That's when i learned about restrictors.
having heard your comment I did some research and now I see that perhaps the transfer Rate of heat out of the engine into the coolant is a constant however with more coolant flowing past you're putting the same amount of heat into A Larger quantity of coolant In this case perhaps the exact issue was too much flow through the radiator to Expel that heat. seems like Jeff did the right fix in the right location.
I like both your solutions to the overheating ✊
two 9 inch holes in shroud has less (127 sq in) square area than one 14 inch hole (151 sq in) so it is a profit. More flow from 14 inch fan is second benefit
Thinking that the Ewp isn't cutting it. A belt driven pump might pull 3 or more kW. Guessing this pump has a 500W motor? If you wanted to try slowing the flow down you could already with the pump. It is a very thick core for sure and they aren't that efficient for that reason. Maybe the triple pass will require even more pump power! If you wanted to go all in with that core, split it vertically instead so that the full face sees the full air flow twice...... Means you will have the inlet and outlet on the same side, that might be an issue.....
Great job Jeff 👏 👍
That thing would be a rocket..
Awesome! For more heat rejection, could ceramic coat headers to channel heat out and cool underhood temps.
Already has..
Great work Jeff, definitely chipping away. I'm definitely interested in how you solve the steering delay issue. Many thanks.
Ciao from Italy, keep up the good work, buon lavoro! 🇮🇹
yeah, its great, time for a road trip, well when the steering changed
Bloody well done Jeff, cheers mate
Well done on sorting the cooling. I would never have tried that, it goes against everything I know (or thought I did!!). I would have removed the restrictor to increase flow rate.
You’ve actually reduced the total cooling capacity of the rad. As the water is now cooler coming out of the rad, the avg temp of the water in it is lower, so the temp diff between air and rad temp is lower, reducing the cooling capacity. I guess the engine needs that cooler water to give up its heat effectively but it doesn’t explain why it was ok under load - with the leccy pump flow rate is (or should be) independent of engine speed.
I’ve always fitted the smallest rad I can get away with so guess I’ve never come across (or had to deal with!) issues having one too big!!!
Well done though, I’m glad you sorted it.and keep up the good work. Cheers.
Nice progress again, well done Jeff!
I was worried it might overheat in Houston when I drive it. Beautiful!
Ciao Jeff, sei un mago!!
La modifica al radiatore è stata un'eccellente idea.
There is another school of thought with the cooling shroud, delete it completely and hang the fan against the radiator. Next make an under tray which extends to the back of the engine but open at the rear and covers the engine completely. The theory is that there is high pressure air just under the front of the car which effectively pressurises the engine bay stopping hot air escaping. The rear of the engine area is now low pressure and effectively pulls the hot air out.
He already had the undertray/bash plate that he took off a few episodes ago to try and fix the cooling problem. It covered the from through passed the crossmember and opened at the back.
@@b3nny90 it’s just a thought
Great work Jeff. You need to know the original spec for that engine cooling properties, FW-pump capacity and flowrate, radiator flow characteristics and capacity, this is not rocket science but it will save you from lots of trouble. Can highly recommend Setrab AB radiators. Also coolant from Evanscoolants, classic cool 180. All the best and good luck.
I used a power steering rack without the pump for a racecar, because it was significantly faster than the manual steer. There are quick-racks available foe escorts rally cars and the like. Modern electric power racks should also be considered.
Two wins in the one episode, well deserved I'd say!
this is awesome, Jeff. Well done!
Hi saint Jeff.
Glad you sorted the coolant issue.
I do have a concern regarding the core baffles.
This might work on idle but could restrict water flow at higher rpms.
The fact the alfaFerrari cooled sufficiently on idle and overheats upon driving suggest an airflow problem through the radiator and out through the rear of the car.
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In the past a car that overheats on the motorway was due to a worn water pump not adequately flowing water at high rpms.
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Steering rack.
I think the issue woth the rack is the ratio of number of turns lock to lock and degree of wheel travel per movement of the steering wheel.
You need a
"quick rack" with a low steering ratio.
.
You may be able to re-engineer your current rack by changing the internal pinion on the end of the steering shaft column.
This would be time consuming and require alot of research, and machining of different pinion gears.
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Also that vanity cover over the radiator might also be restricting airflow up over the radiator and through to the hood.
Maybe a small vent along that cover might also help with the cooling.
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Its the efficient speed of airflow through the radiator and out under the rear speed that is partly the cooling issue,
because the engine is running faster and under load creating more heat.
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To me the AlfaFerrari in the video DID sound like a Ferrari..
definitely better with the muffler add ons...😎
Cooling idea: In some 105 racecars I have seen holes in the cowl in front of the windscreen in the enginebay side. This will ventilate hot air out though the freshair screen. The area i front of windscreen is usually a low pressure area, so the air should flow out nicely.
That is a high pressure area.
Great episode thanks Jeff. Great news on the cooling!!!!! Can you set up a GoPro behind the rad to see if your flaps work at speed? 😉
Nice bandaid with the radiator, but it still does not confront the problem that a crossflow radiator presents. The old top bottom tank radiators are by far superior as long as you have a proper pump. From our experience the electric pumps do not provide enough head pressure. You need to see inside the coolant passage around the valve seats to fully understand the need for a high head pressure and high flowing pump. Nucleate boiling is a real thing that causes cylinder leak down to occur when the boiling around the exhaust valve seat is not removed with sufficent pressure and flow.
The top bottom tank radiator allows for expansion room in the top tank as you do not seem to have an expansion tank in the system. 1 liter of expansion is a minimum for a naturally aspirated engine.
Awesome job you did, and love the color! Do you want my old custom NY motorcycle plate? I think I have a Florida car plate also...
Triple pass is definitely a bonus, I still think that the pump might be cavitating. , it's up high and much as it should be able to modulate for the required temp, it will be dumb if it's not pushing max capacity.. An 1/8" bleed connecting from adjacent to the pump and down to the Block inlet should ensure that it's not an issue.
The pump is the lowest part of my system..?
Hi Jeff, when l straight piped my camaro l used to insert eBay motorbike baffles into the muffler deletes when inspection time came around, I didn't weld them in cus they came straight back out the next day, but they sure stopped her snarling and could have been welded in I had been soft enough
But was easier to use them cheap eBay baffles than hump and struggle with big bulky mufflers
Hi Jeff i saw that the engine temp was 80 degs C, that would be a normal cars cruising speed, the thermo will come on, I would set it at 95 and off at 87 deg c where you would be in traffic at a stop light or bumper to bumper ...
I will change it. I set it low while I was having overheating issues ;)
I found that also adding oil cooler with fan cools engine temp. Also I had a spal fan on an enclosed radiator by race radiators, this kept my big hp problem motors cool on the street upto 38c Melb weather
I'm surprised that plate arrived so quickly! Cheers all!!
Thanks mate :D
I know that poping the back of the bonnet causes a low pressure zone forcing air back in but that's only when the cars moving. Your car's overheating stationary so may help release the heat.