How Uppers Are Designed & Cut for Bespoke Dress Shoes

We discuss the process of cutting leather on a bespoke shoe: gentl.mn/uppers-design-cut-be...
#uppers #bespokeshoes #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Burgundy & Light Gray: gentl.mn/stripe-socks-burgund...
SEE THE FULL BESPOKE SHOE SERIES PLAYLIST HERE:
→ • Bespoke Shoes, Start t...
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ "Trial" Bespoke Shoes: gentl.mn/bespoke-trial-shoe
→ Designing Bespoke Shoes: gentl.mn/bespeaking-design-be...
→ Edward Green - Is It Worth It?: gentl.mn/edward-green-shoes
→ Allen Edmonds - Has Quality Decreased?: gentl.mn/value-review-allen-e...
→ Crocodile & Alligator Leather - Why So Expensive?: gentl.mn/crocodile-alligator-...
→ Chromed Tanned vs Vegetable Tanned Leather: gentl.mn/chrome-vs-veg-tanned-3
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera & editing: Chris Dummer
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter
Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at harkweberstudio.com
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ @gazianogirling
→ Wayman Bespoke
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00:00 Creating the Uppers the Uppers Introduction
Uppers are part of the shoe that covers the top and sides of the foot. The shape of the uppers dictates the overall style of the shoe as well as the comfort.
00:58 Necessary Tools
In order to create the uppers, we actually need quite a few tools; the most important ones, according to Amara, are really sharp knives. Sometimes they look like an X-Acto knife without the extensional blade.
02:24 Pattern Making
She needs a pencil for notation and a clear ruler. She also utilizes division makers or spacers to ensure that distances are kept and that everything looks neat in a final product. You also see a paddle or a honing strip to keep the knives sharp. Then, there are a number of plastic templates - also known as “French curves” - which make it easier to create a pleasing line on the patterns on the leather.
08:35 Designing Pattern and Broguing Details
You create a pattern first. How much time you actually spend discussing the individual pattern depends on the complexity of your design and your ideas.
14:53 Pattering the Tongue & Lace Holes
With this process, Amara helped me to keep track of the different angles, designs, and cutouts, so we could make sure the shoe overall was consistent.
16:40 Constructing the Pattern
Time to make the patterns that would allow Amara to cut it on leather. Amara cut off the tape from the last just like with a trial shoe, and then, she applied a paper backing to it to prevent any type of distortion. She cut the edges to help everything lay nice and flat. Amara pricked guide points in the pattern that allowed her to always easily line them up.
20:45 Paterring the Lining Leather & Structural Support
A structural support leather in a shoe is typically not something you find in most ready-to-wear shoes except more higher-end ones like Edward Green, for example.
22:40 Crafting the Tongue
Two methods. First, she could make it as a separate piece and then, later, stitch it in, or she could cut it out as one piece with the rest of the section.
23:14 Cutting the Leather - Clicking
Time to cut the leather. Historically, it has been called “clicking” because there’s a clicking sound the knife makes when it leaves the leather after cutting it. In the more modern times, you may also hear a click sound of the presses when they put pressure on the die, and it hits the leather.
26:13 How the Leather is Cut
Amara split the hide down the center because she said you should never cut a piece of upper across that center line. It stretched in a different way and that, overall, it wouldn’t be good for the final product.
28:42 Selecting & Cutting the Lining Leathers
Now it’s time for the lining, then we need the structural pieces, and then it all has to be assembled.
31:37 Conclusion
I think having witnessed the entire process, I have a much higher appreciation for the level of detail and craftsmanship that goes into such a shoe. Because the lining doesn’t really show on the outside, you don’t need the ultimate precision needed for the upper leathers. There’s also more excess that is then later trimmed off.
Overall, making and cutting the linings is quicker than the uppers by a long shot. So, now that the leathers are cut, they must be sewn together.

[@frankmartinez4856]

Amara is a Master Craftwoman! Bravo to her! She the Most 😊

[@alexanderdylanthomas1891]

Absolutely gorgeous choice of leather!! It really works with the pattern and details! What a stunning first commission for both client and cordwainer! Bravo!!

[@gdtimi]

Great video Gents

[@marioe6696]

Another fantastic video. This series has been my favorite so far. Well done!

[@gentlemansgazette]

It seems like you are in the minority... I thought it was really cool to see the upper making process as that is not a subject you can find many videos on

[@marioe6696]

@@gentlemansgazette Indeed. You didn't show us your outfit in this video? What is the world coming to? Joking

[@damnson0813]

Informative vid thanks mates

[@brennanshane146]

Very informative! As always, well done. This series is one of my favorites, yet!

[@truthreigns7]

AWESOME!! It is Raphael!!! Always a GREAT VIDEO when he is on!

[@lksinternational3358]

Good job sir

[@craft-o-matic399]

"Upper cut! Upper cut!", Rock 'Em Sock 'Em Robots.

[@tonydeltablues]

Very good indeed....looking forward to the next video...

[@keshavrao212]

Wow! This is a great Idea for a video.

[@mikerubenstein3770]

Does anyone know what shoe store is shown at 5:54? Cheers

[@gentlemansgazette]

I think it was a tradeshow display, I can't recall the brand.

[@claudioguadagno7849]

👏👏

[@djkramit]

18:52 😄

[@jbtechcon7434]

Ultimate billionaire swag: human leather oxfords.

[@aaronminkenberg8386]

1:58
On what do you base that statement?
I understand that hand stitching is more irregular and less delicate
But based on my research and experience, a handsewn Saddle Stitch is way superior to a machine stitch in terms of longevity and strength ,
because of the two independent threats not relying on each other in contrast to the threats on a machine stitch

[@gentlemansgazette]

There are traditional mocassins that are all hand sewn, but it is never as fine as a machine stitch. Maybe someone tries to handsew an upper for a dress shoe some day. I have never seen or heard of such a thing. So for dress shoes, a machine seam is better than a hand seam in my opinion.

[@diavalus]

I immediately stopped the video and went to the comment section to see if anyone else noticed this. And I agree with your points above. Now, the main reason why they are machine stitched is simply because of the high number of stitches per inch and small thread used. It can be done by hand, but it will take a loooong time to do it.
Other than that, I still appreciate them making this series. Opens up eyes.

[@dakotarayprice]

All i wear black dress shoes with my suit with kint tie

[@AcesGaruda]

Horrible accent.

[@WooWoo698]

Can you make a video about capes in classic menswear??