In this video we learn how to attack intermittent problems Scantool used in the video: Launch X431 Pro mini: bit.ly/35epX4T PS: be sure to click “buy from amazon" if your from the US. Comment Giveaway link: facebook.com/Kingbolen.fa... Wiring diagrams used in the video: www.diagnosexl.nl/en/diagnose... Scope used in the video; www.autoditex.com/
I’m definitely not a professional auto mechanic (I’m a retired aircraft mechanic/flight engineer) but I sure can tell when a knowledge person is methodically troubleshooting.
Dan ur diagnosis skills are amazing I would never make repairs to any module even if it was a cold solder joint because of liability ur repair to the signal ground was correct intermittent problems are difficult
@@Diagnosedan Happy until selling the car, and someone sees that patch. Then wondering how many other undocumented patches that exists. A rebuilt replacement unit is always the best. If one solder joint on the ABS PCB has come loose, how long until another one comes loose. This is a typical problem when manufacturers went from lead based solder to non-lead solder. Re-built is always the best option.
@@catalinnicolae4443 I would take 3 but so many people believe that unless it comes from a manufacturer the job isn't done properly or has enough quality control measures.
Love when you do audi's Dan, being an Audi/VW dealer tech of 14 years I still learn a ton from watching, you have a great way of explaining things. Keep up the excellent work. 👍
As a tech myself, I appreciate your knowledge and methods of diagnosing. I use many of the same techniques everyday. Biggest problem in our field, is that customers generally don't want to spend the money for proper diagnostics. Especially when they've had it to every repair shop in the area already. Great work though Dan
This shows how an expensive spare part can make an old but otherwise good car uneconomical to repair. A new module fitted by Audi could easily have cost more than the value of this car.
Option 3 is of course the sensible choice - although some clients are stuck in their ways and would request repair or a new unit. But ground is ground and doesn't matter where you get it from. Thanks for posting, cheers.
When a shop can’t figure it out they send it the dealer, when the dealer can’t figure it out they ship it to Dan! You are the Man! Love your channel.. best diagnostic one on TH-cam in my opinion.Thank you
Dan sure knows his stuff and his diagnostic procedure is up there with the best, but you should take a look at LM auto repairs this guy really knows his stuff too...
I'll choose option 2. resoldering all possible solder joints. Because maybe there are other solders that are about to become bad solders and it's only a matter of time before that happens. Another impressive video. You are one of those people who, above all, follow logic and make sense of cause and effect relationships. Most people don't have this ability!
Brilliant detective work by heating up and cooling it down to check the continuity at different temperatures. As for the 3 options of repair. I think most customers would say the added ground wire is a perfectly adequate repair and saves them a lot of money. Brilliant job Dan.
Dan I am 68 and an AC and Electrical professional. I never cease to be amazed with your skills, your candor and honesty. You have an excellent work ethic and just always look out for your customer. I am happy to see a younger man like you with the sharp skills, honesty and truthfulness. I never watch an episode that I do not enjoy every one of them are good. Your customers should love you the way you take good care of them!
I think 99% of the workshop in world will simply change ABS UNIT alll cables and sensors. RESPECT for your patience to discover real problem and avoid overcharge customers.. By the way how you have this wiring diagrams animation with all info.,parameters,voltage values. Is a special software? A name will be useful.
It may or might not, 10 years ago a friends civic just wouldnt start, he took it to diferent shops, Relays, wires, connectors, pump, filters, inyectors were replaced and notheing worked, i happened to be visiting him and he was planning on just scraping the car, i tested it a bit, some wiring diagrams from the internet and found no signal from the ecu to the pump relay, we opened the ecu and with a magnifying glass i found some sketchy solder mixed with flux, looks like an error on the factory or some refurbishing stuff (he bought it used so no idea and its a no sealed ecu, no signs of a repair), just got there with new solder and it worked, the damn car still runs perfectly
Love your work btw...being an ex mechanic and now an electronics technician but seeing and repairing the amount of weird intermittent issues with all the later electronics involved in newer vehicles makes me appreciate the older non computerised cars that i feel will make a comeback here in australia...good knowledgeable honest mechanics with the scan tools can be hard to find especially in our remote regional areas...i love watching your diagnosing this stuff as it helps me stay in touch....ive even gone back to carby vehicles
I worked at and Audi dealer for 15 years - we must have replaced a few hundred of those ABS modules, i think I opened one or two up to see if there was something i could repair inside (they're sealed internally with a thick jelly substance). Takes a real understanding of powers and grounds to find out in what way they were failing. Hats off to you sir.
Option 2, best of 2 worlds. Getting the module fixed as well as keeping the wiring intact. Soldering out an extra ground might get missed by other techs down the line
I’m not a mechanic nor electrician, but just a regular guy with a 2005 Land Rover LR3 in Texas with electrical issues. This is a master class in troubleshooting electrical problems.
I must say, as a physician, and a certifiable gearhead :-), I love your videos! You have essentially double grounded that connection, excellent. Something tells me this is going to last at least another hundred thousand miles :-)
I noticed the Audi had over 270 thousand kilometers on it. Factor that in with the age of the vehicle and it is very apparent that this vehicle is nearing the end of its practical service life which makes option 3 a more logical choice in this specific case. As stated this fix will function every bit as well as repairing or replacing the control unit. It always seemed stupid to me to task the control unit to perform the duty of supplying a ground to the sensor when a piece of wire can do the same job.
The customer always will choose the cheapest honest MECHANIC especially if the parts are expensive, thanks for your honesty and professional approach to your customers,Watching from Australia.
Fantastic video. Everything was spot on and explained perfectly. My only concern with option 3 is that if the solder joint is bad, there may be other bad solder joints in there too. On my own car id probably still choose option 3, but for a customer i would recommend option 2 to reduce the possibility of similar faults returning.
@@roybm3124 The owner has been relying on it since it was new. It was soldered to begin with. Done properly, the re-flow will be better than the original, as the original has failed to begin with.
It might be difficult to remove the circuit board from the unit. The damage in the circuit may not be at a solder point. Re-flow is the most elegant repair but has its limitations and risks too.
I've experienced some ABS modules that light up the ABS bulb on the dash yet they still function normally ! Likely a cracked solder joint or something else not needing much current to set the bulb on.
I came across your channel looking for help with error codes on my 2007 Mercedes E550. I ended up watching your videos for 3 hours. I really enjoy your content and detailed explanations. You should have your own TV show. Seriously.
Love your dedication tracking down faults Dan. There is an option 4: get access to the ABS module circuit board and resolder the joint on the board yourself. I did that on my old Volvo V70 and fixed the problem myself instead of paying £2000 to the Garage for a new module. Not an option on a car that cost £500. The ABS pump wasn't working due to dry joints on the module, so I carefully sawed the lid so I could remove it, resoldered the dry joints and sealed the lid back on. It worked and is still working 5 years later. Maybe not a valid option for a shop. ;-)
Not always an option. Some of these units have aluminium joints which won’t take solder. Had a similar issue on an e38 a while ago, the abs unit looked very much like this one so probably manufactured in the same way. I cut the top off it thinking it would be a nice easy job to solder up, it didn’t go as planned.
Dan, that would be Cool. Dry joints are a real problem in modern automotive electronics. A few cars I've owned had electronic problems of one type or another due to poor solder joints. Luckily I know how to repair them. I tend to buy big cars with lots of electronics in them, so I get to see these issues. My current Lexus had a bad reversing camera. Luckily with that a cheap Chinese camera fitted in the housing and made a good replacement with slight modification.
Man your a good mechanic. Nobody is willing to go this far to get the root of a problem everybody wants a quick fix like a magic pill to fix everything I'm not in Europe but if I was I would definitely take my car to you. Great video bro thank you
Hi Dan, just discovered your channel. Mooi stukkie uitzoekwerk! Call me crazy, but I probably would've chosen option 2. If there's one bad contact on the PCB there are probably more. Good idea to check the entire PCB for more problems.
Not necessarily. 1990's gasoline Mercedes had faulty fuel pump relays manufactured by Bosch. I took them apart and resoldered them. If you bought a new Bosch fuel pump relay it would have the original built-in Bosch fault which was a badly flow-soldered relay socket.
I am impressed you soldered the electrical joint and did not use one of those stupid scotch locks. I have been an electronics technician for over 30 years. I know all about dirty connections and bad solder joints. Your repair will be extremely reliable and last forever. I also liked your homemade, magnetic, alligator clip, wire holder! I will be making one of those. Thank you.
I personally will choose option two, because I am curious and I want to learn like all my life. I am working a lot with common rail diesels, and they have a lot of problems like that. for example when the fuel pressure is too high or too low and the engine loses power while driving,80% from the cases are that the fuel pressure regulator stop to working because his coil overheat. Good job Dan, continue 👍🏻
I had a similar problem with a Vauxhall Zafira 2004 1.6 petrol (UK) but this time the intermittent problem was in the fuel system. When the engine went hot, the fuel pump stopped working, to make the long story short, after few tests I found that the problem was the engine control module was interrupting the earth/ground to the fuel pump relay. We gave the customer the same options you suggested and the solution was to provide an external earth to the fuel pump relay, with the respective warnings to the customer, he agreed this. Great video Dan, thanks.
Dan.. .. I have only 2 words: You rock.. I love what you are doing. I love the way you explain it. I love the way you talk.. It s cristal clear, even for someone that is not English . Keep doing it Dan.. You make my day every time I watch your videos. Great work, great video.. I always forward your videos to my friends that want to learn the easiest way. Many many thank you from Malaysia
Whaaaaaaaa LMAO.... That's hilarious! I personally use Chrome but mostly just out of habit! Internet explorer use to give me constant issues and always just seemed slower then chrome to me personally, but hilarious ass comment nevertheless lol
Hi Dan, I love your channel, very good info always given. The first bad thing I heard you say was those bungee cords. They are dangerous ! One shop I worked at, Guy lost his eye to one. Just Google the stats and you'll see. Keep up the awesome videos !
@@rooster3285 Operator error, never over tension them, use the right length and make sure they are secure. I have been using them for over 30 years and never had an issue.
Dan this video again just show your determination to solve a problem which very few technicians will even attempt to do . I do wish to congratulate you .
The wires in the b6 abs controllers that require soldering are smaller gauge than human hair, so that would probably be accurate. Additionally, there is a gel substrate that is there to protect it that can only be removed using acid.
Definitely, parallel paths are not always good. Ground loops can cause other failure. In thinking about it now, I might actually cut the wire from the abs control unit and cap it until the unit is fixed.
Only just found this video, Dan you are a magician. One thing I hate tackling is car electric because everything is invisible, but you sir have taught me a few lessons even after only watching two of your videos. very impressed with your knowledge, keep up the very good work.
They can make the most profit with the least intellectual effort by replacing the whole unit... If the cost is prohibited then they go to standard service /marketing operating procedure and their preferred option... Trade in value applied towards a new Audi.
I have no problem doing this on my wife's car, or a good friends car. But I would never even offer this as an option at our shop. Never "jerry rigged a customers car" ever.
Jerry rigged? Lol, this is the best option out of these three. 1 Gonna replece whole unit when its repairable? Only stupid mechanics that dont know how to daiagnose or repair the problem do that. And ofcourse its money wasting at its finest. 2 Open this thing apart and risking damaging something else in the process. Again you are wasting customers time and money. 3 Good, cheap, permament and less invasive then option 2 solution. For me option 3 is the most sane out of all of these. Hats down for this man, we lack professionalist like him out there.
Except if it makes for a good youtube video, then it can be benificial in another way. This is quite smart, you will get money for your work, and an additional bit from youtube, while we are either educated or entertained. Smart move.
Nice thorough diagnosing of the problem Dan. You looked for the commonality between the modules affected and since the car would only act up when it was warmed you applied heat and cold until you found the problem circuit. Hats off to ya Dan. Nice work 👍
I would go for the soldered ground. Affordable and I doubt a main dealer or frankly most shops would identify the fault in the first instance let alone the remedy. Well done, we need more like you.
You know when someone knows what they’re talking about, because they make you understand, simple. Great videos Dan 👍👍 Had a similar intermittent fault on a passenger airbag fault. Sometimes the airbag light would be on then go off after driving for 10 minutes or so. It turned out to be the connector not fully clicked and when the ambient temperature in the car increased the heat affected the plastic connector and the expansion was enough to make contact
dan has tremendous knowledge about the crappy german cars .but i guess now days it applies to all of them. goes by logical steps to not miss a beat. i am impressed by the knowledge dan has. a cool dude i like him. takes his time to really know what is going on.i salute you..
I just picked up that soldering iron a couple weeks ago. I'm very impressed with it and I love the fact that it fits in my wire repair kit. Awesome video.
Here in the USA finding a quality shop to re-manufacture computer boards and modules is very very difficult. Chances are if you had a concern with your original a used one would not be much better. $1500 may seem like a lot but compared to the price the customer paid for the vehicle now it is the cost of doing business and driving a high-tech car. Good job as always.
I would choose Option #3, that is, create an external ground to an unpainted surface for an excellent solid grounding effect. I would definitely say, you solved the problem for good. Maybe, add an insulator for the ABS unit DIY just like those on battery insulators to deflect the heat somewhere else. Happy Diagnosing!!!
This is quite a relatable topic. My 2003 jaguar xtypes abs is kicking in at low mph and even when stationary with the gearbox in neurtal, its intermittent but embarrassing especially at traffic lights having a grinding noise under the bonnet. The codes are telling me the rear right sensor is bust but after 4 new sensors on all 4 corners i still get the same issue. My bets are on the bearing internals being corroded away along with the abs ring. The beauty of videos like this is they keep you motivated in times of dispare 😆, this audi is great fix yet again dan, great video.
Hello Master Dan.I hope you're doing well and you're family. I never skip your valuable video. The more I watch your video the more better I learn and gain more confidence and knowledge. I enjoy watching your precious video and the bloopers too 😅.The way your approach and apply your theory in practice.
I had a similar problem in my own car but this time with the fuel pump relay controller ( fitted in the ecu and controlled by the camshaft sensor signal), the earth to the fuel pump relay was interrupted intermittently according to engine bay temperature (ecu fitted on the side of the engine) and I had the same options to fix the problem, I choose to fit my own earth because was the cheapest one even if not the safest if you have an accident and you don't turn the ignition off. Great videos Dan, I'm a new follower!👍
Great video and information Dan. I am in the the US in the rust belt in northern Illinois. We loose grounds all the time due to corrosion. That can cause all kinds of very strange issues. Normally for us the problem is only intermittent with vibration. Thanks again for the video.
Interesting video. I do like to see people using their intelligence to diagnose issues rather than simply scanning the codes and jumping to conclusions. I have to admit I'd go with option 3 every time. There's nothing wrong with it and, as you say, it will last the rest of the car's life. I tend to add a little tag to the new wire to help future mechanics understand why there's an undocumented modification.
Dan, you are a funny guy and I appreciate you leaving in the bloopers... A good sense of humour is essential in working on cars.. I used to do these thermal tests on computer circuit boards, and it was due mostly to bad solder joints or chip sockets, but sometimes it's the chip (cracked casing)... If it's a chip, then bypassing is the best way, but if it's a solder joint issue, other adjacent solder joints may be close to failure, and may need a refurbishment...
This is the out of the box thinking that makes you a really good car guy. I have maintained all my cars without a single trip to the dealership in 30 yrs except for recalls .
This was amazing with how you did NOT just send it back to the customer but you used every tool at your disposal Dan you need to come to Colorado Springs and open up here. You would love it.
your logical approach to finding the root case (& clear explanation) is quite amazing. it is so easy to be led up the garden path & make irrational conclusions when testing for intermittent faults. but your logic is impeccable. Thks for great learning experience. i have no experience of ABS systems but the principles of control systems & their sensors are always consistent. glad it was you & not me doing this diagnosis. of course on cost i would as owner go for option 3 - bypass common. (one day might i might resolder board inside ABS unit haha, but prob never would, as task to remove & disassemble would scare me.)
I had similar problem with a Passat, a company in Idaho rebuilds auto electronics units and their rebuilt unit has been fine for years! Number 2 if you keep a car as long as I do.
I’s go for option two, Bosch abs modules are also used in BMW’s and in the enthusiast community they’re known well for failing, causing faults with mainly the wheel speed sensors. I had one repaired, it was € 209,- (in NL) with one or two years warranty.
Your very thorough Dan.I like how you work.No half ass mechanics.I would take options 3 .If the original unit was defective your repair is just as reliable as a new unit.take care I enjoy your videos.
My Wife’s Yaris had an Intermittant ABS fault. Pedal hammer (ABS warning lamp came on) and lack of proper braking and a weird wining noise, the fault occurred more often when cornering. No error code the system thought a wheel was locking and was doing its normal stuff. I Checked with a Picoscope (oscilloscope) the ABS signal from the four wheel speed sensors, signals seemed good compared to each other and all the wheel bearings where good. I very carefully cleaned the toothed wheels (tone wheel) that are on the driveshaft, it generates an AC voltage within a coil close to it, this is how the ABS unit knows the wheel is turning, loss of signal means the wheel is locked and the ABS unit reduces pressure to that wheels disc brake until the signal comes back indicating wheel is rotating again. One tone wheel was fractured I could see the crack in it. I freed the shaft from the hub and removed the loose fractured tone wheel. It had been split by rust between the hub and the tone wheel, the rust was so hard on the hub I had to shatter it with a small hammer and then use emery paper to clean up the residuals. I fitted a new tone wheel and end of problem. The strange noise? When ABS is in operation it locks off the pressure you are applying with brake and dumps a small quantity into an accumulator if the accumulator get full a switch operates and the fluid is pumped back to the Brake fluid reservoir making the wining noise. The feeling was brake pedal hammer following by this pump whine. Pretty sure a lot of component changers would have put a new ABS pump on it. Tone wheels seemed to have disappeared and now the wheel bearings have magnets embedded in them to give the rotational signal. Inductive pickups evolved so a wire test could be done static and now three wire Hall effect pickups as well. Also the hot and cold test could apply to male and female connector plugs the female connector expanding could give a bad signal, as said more prone to these problems in a hot engine compartments
Good finding, I am a mechanic for 30 years, and test is not familiar to me, I can use it and do, and it makes our work a lot easier, thanks for the vid.
HI, YOU ARE NUMBER ONE IN YOUR APPROACH OF TECHNICAL DIAGNOSTICS, YOUR BRAIN THOUGHTS COVERS THE SUBJECT MATTER IN A WAY TO GET THE BOTTOM OF THE INTERMITTENT ISSUE WITH SUCH A LOGIC BEYOUND ANY TECHICAL APPROCH ON YOU TUBE. SIR, YOU VERFIED YOUR FINDS ALL THE WAY TO THE LIMIT AT THE END TO SHOW YOUR SUCESS. YOU ARE A BLESSING TO YOUR CUSTOMERS AND THE AUTOMOIVE FIELD. BLESS YOUR HEART AND SOUL. AMAZING BEYOUND WORDS DESCRIPTIONS. YOU ARE THE TOP OF THE LINE
That took a lot of heat and cooling, making very difficult to detect fault! I've spent great deal of my life working on electronic equipment psu,com's base stations, hand portables, also done fault finding on my vehicles also,All very challenging, really get lots of information watching you diagnosising wehcles! Great channel to watch. I just need to get scan tool when ive money to do so,needed as I'm presently replace brake system on my18yr old e46 3ser 325ci convertible.
Hi Dan. Another GREAT diagnostic video. In this one you cleverly diagnosed an intermittent problem with the Earth (ground) line, when heat was applied. I am by no means anywhere in the same league as you and your skills, but, you gave three options to give your customer. and as to which option we would choose. 1, replace with dealer part. 2, get the existing unit remanu'd. 3, apply an extra external ground line. I too would have choose option 3, with option 2 the next step. Great videos M8y. :-)
This is obviously an old video at this point, but I would (and did) choose option 2. Mine was worse, as the speedo was cutting out and the odometer wasn't counting miles. These are notorious for cracked solder joints, and I have a feeling this car will act up again, probably with worse symptoms like I described.
Option 3 is good for a personal car or a customer like a friend who fully understands that the ground opening up on the circuit board could be the start of other circuit board problems and there is a chance the control module could develop other problems in the future. What happens if something else on the circuit board goes bad in 3 - 6 months. Now you just charged the customer for the diagnosis and repair then you will need to diagnose again and this time you won't be able to add an overlay wire and the unit has to be replaced. I bet the customer won't want to pay for a second diagnosis. Had the unit been replaced the first time it would have a warranty on it and the shop would not be out of diagnosis time.
Hi Dan if you to disconnect the sensor plug and do the ground test the test light will light when the key is on. Therefore in my opinion there is a problem in the abs unit its shorting ground to positive. I would go for option 1 or 2
In this video we learn how to attack intermittent problems
Scantool used in the video:
Launch X431 Pro mini: bit.ly/35epX4T
PS: be sure to click “buy from amazon" if your from the US.
Comment Giveaway link: facebook.com/Kingbolen.fa...
Wiring diagrams used in the video:
www.diagnosexl.nl/en/diagnose...
Scope used in the video;
www.autoditex.com/
I’m definitely not a professional auto mechanic (I’m a retired aircraft mechanic/flight engineer) but I sure can tell when a knowledge person is methodically troubleshooting.
Your Great Dan,.. awesome I also fixed by doing option 3 as its more economical solution.
Great repair. I'd have gone with the customers choice
For those like me interested in the magnetic wire holder, google for "Lisle 55000 Wire Holder"
Nice scan tool 😉 as always awesome work well done. I also would go with third option due to vehicle age.
Option 3. If diagnose Dan is happy to do that as a repair then it’s more than good enough for me.
Ha ha I'm happy and customer is happy!
Dan ur diagnosis skills are amazing I would never make repairs to any module even if it was a cold solder joint because of liability ur repair to the signal ground was correct intermittent problems are difficult
@@Diagnosedan Happy until selling the car, and someone sees that patch. Then wondering how many other undocumented patches that exists. A rebuilt replacement unit is always the best. If one solder joint on the ABS PCB has come loose, how long until another one comes loose. This is a typical problem when manufacturers went from lead based solder to non-lead solder. Re-built is always the best option.
I would take option 3 and offer to pay EU100 because people like Dan should be encouraged to exist and prosper
@@catalinnicolae4443 I would take 3 but so many people believe that unless it comes from a manufacturer the job isn't done properly or has enough quality control measures.
Love when you do audi's Dan, being an Audi/VW dealer tech of 14 years I still learn a ton from watching, you have a great way of explaining things. Keep up the excellent work. 👍
Your welcome Steve!
As a tech myself, I appreciate your knowledge and methods of diagnosing. I use many of the same techniques everyday. Biggest problem in our field, is that customers generally don't want to spend the money for proper diagnostics. Especially when they've had it to every repair shop in the area already. Great work though Dan
You'd think they would want to spend diagnostics money more than the expensive part changing wack-a-mole many places like to do.
Good job love you Dan
This shows how an expensive spare part can make an old but otherwise good car uneconomical to repair. A new module fitted by Audi could easily have cost more than the value of this car.
I'm seriously impressed with your diagnosis on this Dan. I would have never have thought about heat causing this.
Option 3 is of course the sensible choice - although some clients are stuck in their ways and would request repair or a new unit. But ground is ground and doesn't matter where you get it from. Thanks for posting, cheers.
When a shop can’t figure it out they send it the dealer, when the dealer can’t figure it out they ship it to Dan! You are the Man! Love your channel.. best diagnostic one on TH-cam in my opinion.Thank you
Dan sure knows his stuff and his diagnostic procedure is up there with the best, but you should take a look at LM auto repairs this guy really knows his stuff too...
I'll choose option 2. resoldering all possible solder joints. Because maybe there are other solders that are about to become bad solders and it's only a matter of time before that happens.
Another impressive video. You are one of those people who, above all, follow logic and make sense of cause and effect relationships. Most people don't have this ability!
Brilliant detective work by heating up and cooling it down to check the continuity at different temperatures. As for the 3 options of repair. I think most customers would say the added ground wire is a perfectly adequate repair and saves them a lot of money. Brilliant job Dan.
Dan I am 68 and an AC and Electrical professional. I never cease to be amazed with your skills, your candor and honesty. You have an excellent work ethic and just always look out for your customer. I am happy to see a younger man like you with the sharp skills, honesty and truthfulness. I never watch an episode that I do not enjoy every one of them are good. Your customers should love you the way you take good care of them!
I think 99% of the workshop in world will simply change ABS UNIT alll cables and sensors. RESPECT for your patience to discover real problem and avoid overcharge customers.. By the way how you have this wiring diagrams animation with all info.,parameters,voltage values. Is a special software? A name will be useful.
Option 2. If that ground has failed, good chance something else in that module is sketchy. Go ahead and get a reman module.
Makes sense!
Now that I'm going through the comments I feel like I copied yours lol
option 3 doesn't cause anything and is not irreversible. option 2 makes sense when ABS module starts acting up again. till then option 3 it is.
It may or might not, 10 years ago a friends civic just wouldnt start, he took it to diferent shops, Relays, wires, connectors, pump, filters, inyectors were replaced and notheing worked, i happened to be visiting him and he was planning on just scraping the car, i tested it a bit, some wiring diagrams from the internet and found no signal from the ecu to the pump relay, we opened the ecu and with a magnifying glass i found some sketchy solder mixed with flux, looks like an error on the factory or some refurbishing stuff (he bought it used so no idea and its a no sealed ecu, no signs of a repair), just got there with new solder and it worked, the damn car still runs perfectly
Love your work btw...being an ex mechanic and now an electronics technician but seeing and repairing the amount of weird intermittent issues with all the later electronics involved in newer vehicles makes me appreciate the older non computerised cars that i feel will make a comeback here in australia...good knowledgeable honest mechanics with the scan tools can be hard to find especially in our remote regional areas...i love watching your diagnosing this stuff as it helps me stay in touch....ive even gone back to carby vehicles
We need more guys like you in the US👍👍👍keep up the good work enjoy your work
Thank you very much
And Australia!
Check out Scanner Danner’s channel in the US. These two guys have the same passion.
South main auto n pine hollow diagnostics are good US channels
I worked at and Audi dealer for 15 years - we must have replaced a few hundred of those ABS modules, i think I opened one or two up to see if there was something i could repair inside (they're sealed internally with a thick jelly substance). Takes a real understanding of powers and grounds to find out in what way they were failing. Hats off to you sir.
As an Audi technician, I’m really happy they diagnosed this correctly lol
Maybe you diagnosed it😜
DiagnoseDan ahah no sadly not, I’m far far away in Canada 🇨🇦 lol
I’m a 72 year old retired project manager for the F16’s F110 engine and I learn something with each of your videos. Thank you.
Ingenious repair quite interesting to watch and to listen I don’t even eat popcorn during one of your lectures for sure I’ll miss something
damn right , have audi with faulty injection pump high pressure fuel pump that cost €9000 and the car cost €4000
Option 2, best of 2 worlds. Getting the module fixed as well as keeping the wiring intact. Soldering out an extra ground might get missed by other techs down the line
It's like watching Scooby Doo,Dan always gets the mystery solved.
😂😂😜
I’m not a mechanic nor electrician, but just a regular guy with a 2005 Land Rover LR3 in Texas with electrical issues. This is a master class in troubleshooting electrical problems.
I must say, as a physician, and a certifiable gearhead :-), I love your videos! You have essentially double grounded that connection, excellent. Something tells me this is going to last at least another hundred thousand miles :-)
Thanks for the fantastic comment!😊👍
Option 4: Fix the solder joint myself. Common issue at these abs units.
Great! We can do that in another video!
This was my thought , as well. On someone else's car, however, it's risky unless you've done it before.
why it has inside ground?
@@johnaclark1 Yes, this it is not a job for everyone
Some people learn from the video. So, i believe it will help to diagnose and do some minor repair or modification.
for me option 2 its not that i dont trust the repair option 3 but i like to keep as it whas built.
Fair comment!!👍👍
"As it was built" with a fault!
@@peterr1342 yes VAG life for me
when the engine light goes off i start to worry
Yes and after that straight to museum
I noticed the Audi had over 270 thousand kilometers on it. Factor that in with the age of the vehicle and it is very apparent that this vehicle is nearing the end of its practical service life which makes option 3 a more logical choice in this specific case. As stated this fix will function every bit as well as repairing or replacing the control unit. It always seemed stupid to me to task the control unit to perform the duty of supplying a ground to the sensor when a piece of wire can do the same job.
The customer always will choose the cheapest honest MECHANIC especially if the parts are expensive, thanks for your honesty and professional approach to your customers,Watching from Australia.
Fantastic video. Everything was spot on and explained perfectly.
My only concern with option 3 is that if the solder joint is bad, there may be other bad solder joints in there too. On my own car id probably still choose option 3, but for a customer i would recommend option 2 to reduce the possibility of similar faults returning.
Opción #2
3
You really are thorough , and a genius ! Keep the videos coming Danny
Dan, I would re-flow [re-solder] the internal connections.
I agree , pull an Ivan and do the reflow repair!
+1 i wouldn’t trust on this ABS unit. When you need it, it must be 100%.
@@roybm3124 The owner has been relying on it since it was new. It was soldered to begin with. Done properly, the re-flow will be better than the original, as the original has failed to begin with.
It might be difficult to remove the circuit board from the unit. The damage in the circuit may not be at a solder point. Re-flow is the most elegant repair but has its limitations and risks too.
I've experienced some ABS modules that light up the ABS bulb on the dash yet they still function normally ! Likely a cracked solder joint or something else not needing much current to set the bulb on.
I came across your channel looking for help with error codes on my 2007 Mercedes E550. I ended up watching your videos for 3 hours. I really enjoy your content and detailed explanations. You should have your own TV show. Seriously.
Option 2 and 3 :D If the car was mine I would open up the module and check/resolder the connections inside. Great content!
Love your dedication tracking down faults Dan.
There is an option 4: get access to the ABS module circuit board and resolder the joint on the board yourself.
I did that on my old Volvo V70 and fixed the problem myself instead of paying £2000 to the Garage for a new module. Not an option on a car that cost £500. The ABS pump wasn't working due to dry joints on the module, so I carefully sawed the lid so I could remove it, resoldered the dry joints and sealed the lid back on. It worked and is still working 5 years later. Maybe not a valid option for a shop. ;-)
Mark Phillips That the Ivan option.
We can do that in another video!
Not always an option. Some of these units have aluminium joints which won’t take solder. Had a similar issue on an e38 a while ago, the abs unit looked very much like this one so probably manufactured in the same way. I cut the top off it thinking it would be a nice easy job to solder up, it didn’t go as planned.
Dan, that would be Cool. Dry joints are a real problem in modern automotive electronics. A few cars I've owned had electronic problems of one type or another due to poor solder joints. Luckily I know how to repair them. I tend to buy big cars with lots of electronics in them, so I get to see these issues. My current Lexus had a bad reversing camera. Luckily with that a cheap Chinese camera fitted in the housing and made a good replacement with slight modification.
Nice job Dan, I would leave it exactly as you repaired it!
Thanks!
Same exact problem on older BMW. It was so common that we used the heat gun if the abs light came back on.the module was faulty
Man your a good mechanic. Nobody is willing to go this far to get the root of a problem everybody wants a quick fix like a magic pill to fix everything I'm not in Europe but if I was I would definitely take my car to you. Great video bro thank you
Hi Dan, just discovered your channel. Mooi stukkie uitzoekwerk!
Call me crazy, but I probably would've chosen option 2. If there's one bad contact on the PCB there are probably more. Good idea to check the entire PCB for more problems.
I would have chosen option 2 also.
Respect for a mechanic like you, there are so many cowboy around in this repair world.
As my brother used to say :everyone can change new parts, but he is a mechanic how can play with old cars and parts.
Option 2 Remanufactured part, the ground may be the 1st of many failures in the system. But still hats off to you on the troubleshooting
Then you know where the fault is and you can go for op 2. If not, you have saved a lot!
Not necessarily. 1990's gasoline Mercedes had faulty fuel pump relays manufactured by Bosch. I took them apart and resoldered them. If you bought a new Bosch fuel pump relay it would have the original built-in Bosch fault which was a badly flow-soldered relay socket.
I am impressed you soldered the electrical joint and did not use one of those stupid scotch locks. I have been an electronics technician for over 30 years. I know all about dirty connections and bad solder joints. Your repair will be extremely reliable and last forever. I also liked your homemade, magnetic, alligator clip,
wire holder! I will be making one of those. Thank you.
Oh my gad u so amazing I’m mahmoud from Egypt I’m new on your channel I’m very happy to be one of your followers to improve my skills thank you Dan
Go go go go, keep the lecture coming, never stop, Like and after watch.
Ha ha ha 😂😂😜
Looks like the customer found a good dealership
Some dealerships are really good!
@@Diagnosedan that's good as in any trade theres always a few bad Apples that ruin the rest
I personally will choose option two, because I am curious and I want to learn like all my life.
I am working a lot with common rail diesels, and they have a lot of problems like that.
for example when the fuel pressure is too high or too low and the engine loses power while driving,80% from the cases are that the fuel pressure regulator stop to working because his coil overheat.
Good job Dan, continue 👍🏻
reman the abs controller, if one solder joint is cold, there may be more....
True! We can do that in another video!
But if there were more then other faults will appear, but there has only been one fault.
Would keep it at 3 and if more codes appear, then option 2, or frankly just trade the car.
The customer said "Option 1, I want to spend as much money on the car as possible because my wallet is too full"
..........never
Ha ha LoL😜
God bless you Dan I'm in Germany i love your work and i would love to meet you
Vielen Dank!
I had a similar problem with a Vauxhall Zafira 2004 1.6 petrol (UK) but this time the intermittent problem was in the fuel system. When the engine went hot, the fuel pump stopped working, to make the long story short, after few tests I found that the problem was the engine control module was interrupting the earth/ground to the fuel pump relay. We gave the customer the same options you suggested and the solution was to provide an external earth to the fuel pump relay, with the respective warnings to the customer, he agreed this.
Great video Dan, thanks.
Dealership: Option 1, everyone else, option 3.
Most shops would have traded out parts till they got a hit then bill you for all of it.
😂😂👍
love the great info, wish i could join in on the giveaway link but i dont use facebook. great vids though :)
I would choose a reman, that earth fault could reappear in another area of the module.
Yes that's true!
Was looking for this comment
Dan.. ..
I have only 2 words:
You rock..
I love what you are doing.
I love the way you explain it.
I love the way you talk..
It s cristal clear, even for someone that is not English .
Keep doing it Dan..
You make my day every time I watch your videos.
Great work, great video..
I always forward your videos to my friends that want to learn the easiest way.
Many many thank you from Malaysia
Intermittent grounds are like Chrome. Up to no good even when you think it works fine.
😂😂😜👍
no u
And that's why nobody likes you. Lols.
Got my grounds checked, and they work fine. Sub-ohm results :D
Karma will strike those who dislike me eventually.
Whaaaaaaaa LMAO.... That's hilarious! I personally use Chrome but mostly just out of habit! Internet explorer use to give me constant issues and always just seemed slower then chrome to me personally, but hilarious ass comment nevertheless lol
That was one clean engine bay for an older car.
Well maintained car!
That elastic with the hooks is called a bungee cord in the states
And (for a change) also in England !
also known as occy (octopus) strap in Australia.
Thanks i didn't know that!👍
Hi Dan, I love your channel, very good info always given. The first bad thing I heard you say was those bungee cords. They are dangerous ! One shop I worked at, Guy lost his eye to one. Just Google the stats and you'll see. Keep up the awesome videos !
@@rooster3285
Operator error, never over tension them, use the right length and make sure they are secure.
I have been using them for over 30 years and never had an issue.
Dan this video again just show your determination to solve a problem which very few technicians will even attempt to do . I do wish to congratulate you .
I'd take apart the existing unit with the intent of cleaning and reflowing the board, screw that up, and then have to buy a new one anyway.
Don't screw it up than😂😂
The wires in the b6 abs controllers that require soldering are smaller gauge than human hair, so that would probably be accurate. Additionally, there is a gel substrate that is there to protect it that can only be removed using acid.
Scoobs McGee me too
I fixed 5 ATE modules by resoldering through the silicone seal, cutting open the unit is worst bit.
get it repaired as the earth may affect other operations of the ABS
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment
Definitely, parallel paths are not always good. Ground loops can cause other failure. In thinking about it now, I might actually cut the wire from the abs control unit and cap it until the unit is fixed.
Only just found this video, Dan you are a magician. One thing I hate tackling is car electric because everything is invisible, but you sir have taught me a few lessons even after only watching two of your videos. very impressed with your knowledge, keep up the very good work.
The wired ground is the proper repair to the issue.
Thanks Jim!
If I was a person that could afford that car, I'd take option 1 without a second thought. For me now, though, option 2 is best.
Thanks for the comment!
Its not a very expensive car at this point...
So you’re telling us the dealership guessed it right this time due to pattern failure? 😂
😂😂I wasn't there and don't know how they came to that conclusion but they were right!👍
@@Diagnosedan they were right from probably guessing it was faulty.
@@AndrewSparkfish Because they already had seen it many times before.
They can make the most profit with the least intellectual effort by replacing the whole unit... If the cost is prohibited then they go to standard service /marketing operating procedure and their preferred option... Trade in value applied towards a new Audi.
Diagnose Dan is the doctor of finding out problems, really wish other mechanics took this much effort into fixing cars
I have no problem doing this on my wife's car, or a good friends car. But I would never even offer this as an option at our shop. Never "jerry rigged a customers car" ever.
Ok fair comment
Jerry rigged? Lol, this is the best option out of these three. 1 Gonna replece whole unit when its repairable? Only stupid mechanics that dont know how to daiagnose or repair the problem do that. And ofcourse its money wasting at its finest. 2 Open this thing apart and risking damaging something else in the process. Again you are wasting customers time and money. 3 Good, cheap, permament and less invasive then option 2 solution. For me option 3 is the most sane out of all of these. Hats down for this man, we lack professionalist like him out there.
If the customer is happy with this option and knows all the details, I don't see the problem at all.
Doing that kind of repair shows to your customer your skills and knowledge. Diagnose Dan prove it again that he 's not a part changer.
Thats when you say " we dont have the special audi tools for this " done deal. Then make some real $$ on normal shit.
😂😂😜
Except if it makes for a good youtube video, then it can be benificial in another way. This is quite smart, you will get money for your work, and an additional bit from youtube, while we are either educated or entertained. Smart move.
I used to work on mainframe computers and intermittent problems are the worst to fix.
You are very good.
Nice thorough diagnosing of the problem Dan. You looked for the commonality between the modules affected and since the car would only act up when it was warmed you applied heat and cold until you found the problem circuit. Hats off to ya Dan. Nice work 👍
I've found problems with stuff using this technique thanks to this video. Watching this content just makes me better in the field. Totally awesome 👍
I would go for the soldered ground. Affordable and I doubt a main dealer or frankly most shops would identify the fault in the first instance let alone the remedy. Well done, we need more like you.
You know when someone knows what they’re talking about, because they make you understand, simple. Great videos Dan 👍👍 Had a similar intermittent fault on a passenger airbag fault. Sometimes the airbag light would be on then go off after driving for 10 minutes or so. It turned out to be the connector not fully clicked and when the ambient temperature in the car increased the heat affected the plastic connector and the expansion was enough to make contact
dan has tremendous knowledge about the crappy german cars .but i guess now days it applies to all of them. goes by logical steps to not miss a beat. i am impressed by the knowledge dan has. a cool dude i like him. takes his time to really know what is going on.i salute you..
I just picked up that soldering iron a couple weeks ago. I'm very impressed with it and I love the fact that it fits in my wire repair kit. Awesome video.
Here in the USA finding a quality shop to re-manufacture computer boards and modules is very very difficult. Chances are if you had a concern with your original a used one would not be much better. $1500 may seem like a lot but compared to the price the customer paid for the vehicle now it is the cost of doing business and driving a high-tech car. Good job as always.
I would choose Option #3, that is, create an external ground to an unpainted surface for an excellent solid grounding effect. I would definitely say, you solved the problem for good. Maybe, add an insulator for the ABS unit DIY just like those on battery insulators to deflect the heat somewhere else. Happy Diagnosing!!!
This is quite a relatable topic. My 2003 jaguar xtypes abs is kicking in at low mph and even when stationary with the gearbox in neurtal, its intermittent but embarrassing especially at traffic lights having a grinding noise under the bonnet. The codes are telling me the rear right sensor is bust but after 4 new sensors on all 4 corners i still get the same issue. My bets are on the bearing internals being corroded away along with the abs ring. The beauty of videos like this is they keep you motivated in times of dispare 😆, this audi is great fix yet again dan, great video.
Hello Master Dan.I hope you're doing well and you're family. I never skip your valuable video. The more I watch your video the more better I learn and gain more confidence and knowledge. I enjoy watching your precious video and the bloopers too 😅.The way your approach and apply your theory in practice.
Now this is what you call a diagnose guru! Thank you for sharing Dan
I had a similar problem in my own car but this time with the fuel pump relay controller ( fitted in the ecu and controlled by the camshaft sensor signal), the earth to the fuel pump relay was interrupted intermittently according to engine bay temperature (ecu fitted on the side of the engine) and I had the same options to fix the problem, I choose to fit my own earth because was the cheapest one even if not the safest if you have an accident and you don't turn the ignition off.
Great videos Dan, I'm a new follower!👍
you are the best i seen and been into cars for 40 years,when points where the only electrical issues and products by LUCAS
Great video and information Dan. I am in the the US in the rust belt in northern Illinois. We loose grounds all the time due to corrosion. That can cause all kinds of very strange issues. Normally for us the problem is only intermittent with vibration. Thanks again for the video.
Interesting video. I do like to see people using their intelligence to diagnose issues rather than simply scanning the codes and jumping to conclusions.
I have to admit I'd go with option 3 every time. There's nothing wrong with it and, as you say, it will last the rest of the car's life. I tend to add a little tag to the new wire to help future mechanics understand why there's an undocumented modification.
Dan, you are a funny guy and I appreciate you leaving in the bloopers... A good sense of humour is essential in working on cars..
I used to do these thermal tests on computer circuit boards, and it was due mostly to bad solder joints or chip sockets, but sometimes it's the chip (cracked casing)...
If it's a chip, then bypassing is the best way, but if it's a solder joint issue, other adjacent solder joints may be close to failure, and may need a refurbishment...
This is the out of the box thinking that makes you a really good car guy.
I have maintained all my cars without a single trip to the dealership in 30 yrs except for recalls .
This was amazing with how you did NOT just send it back to the customer but you used every tool at your disposal Dan you need to come to Colorado Springs and open up here. You would love it.
Dan troubleshooting skills go beyond anything I have seen on the internet - the true Jedi Master!
your logical approach to finding the root case (& clear explanation) is quite amazing. it is so easy to be led up the garden path & make irrational conclusions when testing for intermittent faults. but your logic is impeccable. Thks for great learning experience. i have no experience of ABS systems but the principles of control systems & their sensors are always consistent. glad it was you & not me doing this diagnosis. of course on cost i would as owner go for option 3 - bypass common. (one day might i might resolder board inside ABS unit haha, but prob never would, as task to remove & disassemble would scare me.)
I've been a mechanic all my life but you have showed me some things to look for. Thank You Very Much
I had similar problem with a Passat, a company in Idaho rebuilds auto electronics units and their rebuilt unit has been fine for years! Number 2 if you keep a car as long as I do.
The Best option is DiagnoseDan 👍
Smart and clewer Way to repair (nonrepaireble cars).
Your'e my new Hero Buddy 👍
I’s go for option two, Bosch abs modules are also used in BMW’s and in the enthusiast community they’re known well for failing, causing faults with mainly the wheel speed sensors. I had one repaired, it was € 209,- (in NL) with one or two years warranty.
Your very thorough Dan.I like how you work.No half ass mechanics.I would take options 3 .If the original unit was defective your repair is just as reliable as a new unit.take care I enjoy your videos.
My Wife’s Yaris had an Intermittant ABS fault. Pedal hammer (ABS warning lamp came on) and lack of proper braking and a weird wining noise, the fault occurred more often when cornering. No error code the system thought a wheel was locking and was doing its normal stuff. I Checked with a Picoscope (oscilloscope) the ABS signal from the four wheel speed sensors, signals seemed good compared to each other and all the wheel bearings where good. I very carefully cleaned the toothed wheels (tone wheel) that are on the driveshaft, it generates an AC voltage within a coil close to it, this is how the ABS unit knows the wheel is turning, loss of signal means the wheel is locked and the ABS unit reduces pressure to that wheels disc brake until the signal comes back indicating wheel is rotating again. One tone wheel was fractured I could see the crack in it. I freed the shaft from the hub and removed the loose fractured tone wheel. It had been split by rust between the hub and the tone wheel, the rust was so hard on the hub I had to shatter it with a small hammer and then use emery paper to clean up the residuals. I fitted a new tone wheel and end of problem. The strange noise? When ABS is in operation it locks off the pressure you are applying with brake and dumps a small quantity into an accumulator if the accumulator get full a switch operates and the fluid is pumped back to the Brake fluid reservoir making the wining noise. The feeling was brake pedal hammer following by this pump whine. Pretty sure a lot of component changers would have put a new ABS pump on it. Tone wheels seemed to have disappeared and now the wheel bearings have magnets embedded in them to give the rotational signal. Inductive pickups evolved so a wire test could be done static and now three wire Hall effect pickups as well. Also the hot and cold test could apply to male and female connector plugs the female connector expanding could give a bad signal, as said more prone to these problems in a hot engine compartments
Good finding, I am a mechanic for 30 years, and test is not familiar to me, I can use it and do, and it makes our work a lot easier, thanks for the vid.
I love this channel.Dan is absolutely a detective.
HI, YOU ARE NUMBER ONE IN YOUR APPROACH OF TECHNICAL DIAGNOSTICS, YOUR BRAIN THOUGHTS COVERS THE SUBJECT MATTER IN A WAY TO GET THE BOTTOM OF THE INTERMITTENT
ISSUE WITH SUCH A LOGIC BEYOUND ANY TECHICAL APPROCH ON YOU TUBE.
SIR, YOU VERFIED YOUR FINDS ALL THE WAY TO THE LIMIT AT THE END TO SHOW YOUR SUCESS. YOU ARE A BLESSING TO YOUR CUSTOMERS AND THE AUTOMOIVE FIELD. BLESS YOUR HEART AND SOUL. AMAZING BEYOUND WORDS DESCRIPTIONS. YOU ARE THE TOP OF THE LINE
That took a lot of heat and cooling, making very difficult to detect fault! I've spent great deal of my life working on electronic equipment psu,com's base stations, hand portables, also done fault finding on my vehicles also,All very challenging, really get lots of information watching you diagnosising wehcles! Great channel to watch. I just need to get scan tool when ive money to do so,needed as I'm presently replace brake system on my18yr old e46 3ser 325ci convertible.
Hi Dan. Another GREAT diagnostic video. In this one you cleverly diagnosed an intermittent problem with the Earth (ground) line, when heat was applied. I am by no means anywhere in the same league as you and your skills, but, you gave three options to give your customer. and as to which option we would choose. 1, replace with dealer part. 2, get the existing unit remanu'd. 3, apply an extra external ground line. I too would have choose option 3, with option 2 the next step. Great videos M8y. :-)
This is obviously an old video at this point, but I would (and did) choose option 2. Mine was worse, as the speedo was cutting out and the odometer wasn't counting miles. These are notorious for cracked solder joints, and I have a feeling this car will act up again, probably with worse symptoms like I described.
Definitely option 3. Repair.
Love your videos Dan! I learn a lot from them. Keep them coming!
Option 3 is good for a personal car or a customer like a friend who fully understands that the ground opening up on the circuit board could be the start of other circuit board problems and there is a chance the control module could develop other problems in the future. What happens if something else on the circuit board goes bad in 3 - 6 months. Now you just charged the customer for the diagnosis and repair then you will need to diagnose again and this time you won't be able to add an overlay wire and the unit has to be replaced. I bet the customer won't want to pay for a second diagnosis. Had the unit been replaced the first time it would have a warranty on it and the shop would not be out of diagnosis time.
Dan is the man!!!!! Slick work! I had this car in the past and would take option 3 for sure!
Hi Dan if you to disconnect the sensor plug and do the ground test the test light will light when the key is on. Therefore in my opinion there is a problem in the abs unit its shorting ground to positive. I would go for option 1 or 2
Learning a lot from you Dan. You’re very clever and I think you deserve everything you make from these videos.