I climbed in anasazis for 20 years and wouldn't wear anything else. Sport, trad you name it. Bought these recently and just love all the updates. A truly sublime shoe. If it aint broke don't fix it.
The Five Ten lineup is in a weird place right now. It's basically just Kirigami, NIAD, Hiangle, Crawe, and Aleon. Do they have more in the pipeline, or are they intentionally keeping it minimal?
I like my NIAD lace in street shoe size. I wear a 10.5 US or 44 EU street shoe and the same for NIAD Lace. For reference, I wear a 10 US or 43 EU in SCARPA Instinct lace and they fit very similarly. -Andreas
I'd say yes, street shoe size would be ideal for an intermediate climbing such as myself. I tend to like a looser fitting street shoe... so if you know you like a tight fitting street shoe, then I would probably go up a 1/2 size in the NIAD. I would say my 10.5 street shoes are comfort fit while the 10.5 NIAD lace is more performance fit. But I would say that street shoe is a great place to start. If you're nervous about them being too tight, go up 1/2 size from street. That's just my opinion and I generally don't downsize my shoes significantly - I don't climb hard enough to require it and my feet are too sensitive. -Andreas
@@WeighMyRack Thank you Andreas, its a hard way to find such an comprehensive and interactive answer about NIAD over the internet. So, wherever you do climbing, Alle!
@@WeighMyRackhey! i wear a size 10 in street shoes, and am also an intermediate climber looking for my first pair (long overdue i know 😭). I found a good deal on a pair of US 9.5 in the Niad Lace, and was wondering if those would fit me. I don’t mind my toes being right up at the end of the shoe but do not want them curling up.
I used to be an avid fan of the classic anasazi. I got me a current anasazy lace, with that round "shovel-tip" (which can be seen in the NIAD, too). It totally doesn't work for me anymore, awquard fit. Tightness does not snug it onto your feet, but rather off them. The rubber might still be the best there is, that's why I gave it a final try, but I'm out now. First all those quality fails, now it doesn't even fit anymore.
Thanks for the insight! I've just been testing the NIAD Lace and find it fits my foot very well, for an all-day comfy trad shoe. That said, I have difficulty finding shoes that do fit my duck-like paddle feet. I do agree about the quality of the build, my last couple pairs of Five Tens have not held up as well as my Italian made shoes... lining totally disintegrating, rand delams, etc. Time will tell if the NIAD Lace holds up better. Only have about 20 pitches in them so far
The last shape for 5.10 shoes changed when Adidas bought them. If you fit the old Anasazis, new 5.10s are unlikely to work. Try unparallel shoes, the lasts on their shoes are almost identical to the old 5.10 models, as unparallel was made by former 5.10 employees after Adidas bought it.
@@benschuster9792 Thanks for the tip, was pondering the same. AFAIK Unparallel doesn't have an Anasazi equivalent in their lineup? They are also hard to come by in Europe, and quite expensive. I try to change my shoe tactics from resoling to get them cheap (marginally used) on ebay (resoled shoes are almost always a mess). Not possible with Unparallel. My perfect shoe would be something comfortable like the Ocun Ozone, but with 5.10 rubber (stealth/onyx).
@@benschuster9792 Some shops have them on the radar, but refrain from offering Unparallel + Tenaya because of their steep price (Germany). So. Not gonna happen. Maybe I can check those in Arco/IT.
@@WeighMyRack Hi! I'm looking to buy a pair of NIAD Lace, but I've never worn 5.10. climbing shoes before (I have a pair of Boreal and one pair of Tenaya Iati). The only thing I've been able to read is that the same size as in street shoes is recommended, but my idea is to use it for long slab routes (25-35m) and for long climbing pitches, and I'm looking for a comfortable and precise shoe. I wear a 42.5/9 UK/9.5 US street shoe, what size would you recommend in my case? Thanks in advance!
Same same but different. Tried 5.10 shoes after they moved from the US to China and they simply dont fit. Even going up 1 size from what I used to wear back in the days, they are a different kind of shoe. The name and rubber are the ones that haven't changed at all.
As I have gotten these shoes in about the same size I normally have them I couldn't get into them, at least not without ruining the shoe. I returned them, gotten a size up (normal shoe size)... now I'm still in the same boat. They are extremely narrow and the rubber cuts in my toe really badly no unlike any climbing shoe has done. I've even measured them against my older moccasyms and the footprint of the old worn in shoe is even larger than the new shoe which is technically one whole size up of that old shoe. A tiny rip in the leather already occured now while I was squeezing into them, I did not even pull that hard.
You're back!!
Yea it was touch and go there for a bit. Full steam ahead!!
Will the shoes be available again?
Wow videos are back! I hope this means Alison is doing well?
oh, did i miss something?
Great to see a return of videos, hopefully that means everyone is doing well.
I climbed in anasazis for 20 years and wouldn't wear anything else. Sport, trad you name it. Bought these recently and just love all the updates. A truly sublime shoe. If it aint broke don't fix it.
how about the sizing for Niad Lace? What should we choose for the best suit?
Hello @davidsingleton7389, do you use the same size as Anasazi velcro?
The Five Ten lineup is in a weird place right now. It's basically just Kirigami, NIAD, Hiangle, Crawe, and Aleon. Do they have more in the pipeline, or are they intentionally keeping it minimal?
Why would you ever soften the pink lace??? Defeats the whole purpose of the shoe
Heyyyyyy! Welcome back!
Thank you! We're glad to be back!
My favorite has been the Galileo... Unfortunately no longer around? 😭
how Niad Lace when it comes about sizing? What size suit the best for our feet?
I like my NIAD lace in street shoe size. I wear a 10.5 US or 44 EU street shoe and the same for NIAD Lace. For reference, I wear a 10 US or 43 EU in SCARPA Instinct lace and they fit very similarly.
-Andreas
@@WeighMyRack Is it good for intermediate climber choose a street shoe size?
I'd say yes, street shoe size would be ideal for an intermediate climbing such as myself. I tend to like a looser fitting street shoe... so if you know you like a tight fitting street shoe, then I would probably go up a 1/2 size in the NIAD. I would say my 10.5 street shoes are comfort fit while the 10.5 NIAD lace is more performance fit. But I would say that street shoe is a great place to start. If you're nervous about them being too tight, go up 1/2 size from street.
That's just my opinion and I generally don't downsize my shoes significantly - I don't climb hard enough to require it and my feet are too sensitive.
-Andreas
@@WeighMyRack Thank you Andreas, its a hard way to find such an comprehensive and interactive answer about NIAD over the internet. So, wherever you do climbing, Alle!
@@WeighMyRackhey! i wear a size 10 in street shoes, and am also an intermediate climber looking for my first pair (long overdue i know 😭). I found a good deal on a pair of US 9.5 in the Niad Lace, and was wondering if those would fit me. I don’t mind my toes being right up at the end of the shoe but do not want them curling up.
I used to be an avid fan of the classic anasazi. I got me a current anasazy lace, with that round "shovel-tip" (which can be seen in the NIAD, too). It totally doesn't work for me anymore, awquard fit. Tightness does not snug it onto your feet, but rather off them. The rubber might still be the best there is, that's why I gave it a final try, but I'm out now. First all those quality fails, now it doesn't even fit anymore.
Thanks for the insight! I've just been testing the NIAD Lace and find it fits my foot very well, for an all-day comfy trad shoe. That said, I have difficulty finding shoes that do fit my duck-like paddle feet. I do agree about the quality of the build, my last couple pairs of Five Tens have not held up as well as my Italian made shoes... lining totally disintegrating, rand delams, etc. Time will tell if the NIAD Lace holds up better. Only have about 20 pitches in them so far
The last shape for 5.10 shoes changed when Adidas bought them. If you fit the old Anasazis, new 5.10s are unlikely to work.
Try unparallel shoes, the lasts on their shoes are almost identical to the old 5.10 models, as unparallel was made by former 5.10 employees after Adidas bought it.
@@benschuster9792 Thanks for the tip, was pondering the same. AFAIK Unparallel doesn't have an Anasazi equivalent in their lineup? They are also hard to come by in Europe, and quite expensive. I try to change my shoe tactics from resoling to get them cheap (marginally used) on ebay (resoled shoes are almost always a mess). Not possible with Unparallel.
My perfect shoe would be something comfortable like the Ocun Ozone, but with 5.10 rubber (stealth/onyx).
@@benschuster9792 Some shops have them on the radar, but refrain from offering Unparallel + Tenaya because of their steep price (Germany). So. Not gonna happen. Maybe I can check those in Arco/IT.
@@WeighMyRack Hi! I'm looking to buy a pair of NIAD Lace, but I've never worn 5.10. climbing shoes before (I have a pair of Boreal and one pair of Tenaya Iati).
The only thing I've been able to read is that the same size as in street shoes is recommended, but my idea is to use it for long slab routes (25-35m) and for long climbing pitches, and I'm looking for a comfortable and precise shoe. I wear a 42.5/9 UK/9.5 US street shoe, what size would you recommend in my case?
Thanks in advance!
Same same but different. Tried 5.10 shoes after they moved from the US to China and they simply dont fit. Even going up 1 size from what I used to wear back in the days, they are a different kind of shoe. The name and rubber are the ones that haven't changed at all.
Have you tried Unparallel?
As I have gotten these shoes in about the same size I normally have them I couldn't get into them, at least not without ruining the shoe. I returned them, gotten a size up (normal shoe size)... now I'm still in the same boat. They are extremely narrow and the rubber cuts in my toe really badly no unlike any climbing shoe has done. I've even measured them against my older moccasyms and the footprint of the old worn in shoe is even larger than the new shoe which is technically one whole size up of that old shoe. A tiny rip in the leather already occured now while I was squeezing into them, I did not even pull that hard.
Wow this guys great
We 100% agree. Chris Schulte is great.
Mad Rocks line up is better.