I really like the Scarpa Vapor Lace: really good for sport and trad - slightly finer than the Maestro and more comfortable than the Instinct, but with a similar ability to stick to little holds. I only don't use them indoors to keep them for outside.
Definitely nothing wrong with them, especially indoors. The sizing is a bit weird, comparable to 5-10. Definitely a good option when you're on a budget, a lot of my fellow climbing students use them at 90 euros for a high end shoe
The Scarpa Boostic and Booster are the epitome of climbing shoe technology from the ceramic microsuede to the PAF heels and use of alcantara to formation of the midsole shaping for increased sensitivity without edging loss. I bring those out for plenty of boulders where the crux is more small edge than power smears where the Booster more shines. As well, what a comfortable shoe for how technical this is, right out of the box even, wear em for projecting and board sessions all the time without having to stop.
Booster on paper was the perfect shoe for me but unfortunately when I tried them on, the shape and curvature just wasn't right. Heel cup was too big as well.
Honestly won't matter too much. Out of the ones ppl recommended try them on and pick the one that suits your foot shape & a style you like. You'll wear through them quickly enough while improving your technique.
What is the difference between zenist and elektra. I'm sorry. I forgot what the male version is called? My son needs new shoes. I get to keep his old ones since they are my size. This will be the only time that happens!
I just got my first pair of Tenayas , and they fit my foot like a glove. I'll never go back to those shitty La Sportiva Solution shoes I used to have, where the straps in the back were sown on the _inside of the shoe_ with sharp, hard edges always giving me blisters on the heel (which felt inhumanly large). Don't get me wrong, pretty much anything will be much better than rental shoes, but Tenayas are just so much better than La Sportiva for the same price. My La Sportiva shoes also got cracks and holes in the rubber quite prematurely, and I hope the same won't happen to my new Tenayas.
From my perspective it'd result in more time and costs to adjust at the manufacturing process. Additionally while you might get insight into the kind of colours ppl prefer, you'll end up with a bunch of stock ppl arent willing to buy. There's already a big flaw with some companies marketing Low volume shoes as women and High volume as mens as we know different genders buy for the fit but can be turned off by colour & names that traditionally gear it towards a specific gender.
@@rhyhl as a new guy who wears low volume shoes, I'm glad I was told the differences were pretty much only color and width, I wouldn't have thought to get the woman's shoe other wise and would probably just be very uncomfortable alwways also is it just me, or do the "women's shoes" always have nicer colors? I got the evolv Kiras, which are the low volume version of the kronos, and these come in a nice teal vs plain black of the kronos
@@amr1t_ Ah yes that's because _checks dated gender norms chart_ only women appreciate aesthetics and men either dislike aesthetics or want to appear tough and rugged. Can't do none of that with teal on your feet, big guy! Also men never have narrow feet. The fact low-volume shoes are branded as women's shoes in the first place says a lot about these companies' way of thinking.
@@ChrysusTV heh I think it’s just a remnant of the past, honestly. Nowadays evolv calls all of them unisex and just designates their shoes as low volume or not on their website, but REI still has them under womens shoe. Interesting
I dont care. I tried so many god damn shoes and always come back to the Testarossas. I think I cant be convinced there is something better for me anymore :D
Scarpa Mago is the same designer for the same purpose, all about applying a huge amount of power through a poor and precise foothold on an overhang. Far prefer the heel and lacing of the Mago compared to even the old Testarossa but especially the heel on the newer one. However, while these are amazing shoes, they are rather narrow in use case, and I find the Booster and Chimera coming out for far more climbs, especially in gyms.
@@zacharylaschober For me, the heel on new testarossa is the best heel Ive ever climbed with. Also the rossas are literally the widest shoes from sportiva and generally the widest shoe I have ever tried.
@@MF-CLIMB Testarossa gives you more support and a tighter heel, and a very good suction fit. The genius is better on volumes and round edges, thanks to its softness and no-edge. Sizing wise they are the same, testarossa feeling a bit tighter since its a more supportive shoe. Hope it helps.
really? mine are holding up pretty well (for 3x week indoor bouldering) about 6 months in. I definitely had issues with Unparallel Regulus in terms of quality checks, with the left heel just randomly collapsing (no actual dead space - just extra rubber and less structure than the right shoe)
@@scottwangkl8882 taken you a while to generate that response. Speaking from personal experience and seeing with my own eyes the build quality is poor, peeling toe rubber and changed the fit.
@@smashbadger2460 more like it took me a while to find this video. I'm giving Evolv a try since the Zenist is an interesting shoe. Guess I'll have to make my own judgement when I start using them!
@@scottwangkl8882 sorry I did start that with a truly bitchy comment! I used to use Pontas and the first Shaman. Quality shoes. Since then they've really died which is sad
You do realise that a lot of them are sponsored so they have to wear them, right? And by that logic, 5.10 should be on this list, even after being bought over by Adidas but in many people's opinion, the newer shoes post-Acquisition arent great. And sure, La Sport is great there's no doubt. But it's not like Scarpa is a small time brand either and Evolv seems to be making their way up in the ranks with Colin Duffy and Chris Sharma sporting them.
@@scottwangkl8882 having climbed for 12 years I understand they are sponsored. But I hang out with climbers who have climbed 20-30 years. I know a thing or two about climbing shoes.
@@blade1535 great to hear about your experience! I just purchased a pair of Evolvs so I'm interested to know what people think of them, especially on newer models. Edit: and for the record, just calling them "trash" just doesn't provide any idea to me but if you're too busy then by all means
But Matt, we don't need feet? We just campus?
Valid point
Didn't you know climbing shoes give you +5 crimping strength and +3 dyno power?
Using feet is aid
I really like the Scarpa Vapor Lace: really good for sport and trad - slightly finer than the Maestro and more comfortable than the Instinct, but with a similar ability to stick to little holds. I only don't use them indoors to keep them for outside.
What pants are you wearing with that funky 80s liner?
Must know!
5.10 kirigami 59$ during black friday was my best purchase this year, super for casual comfy indoor session
I improved a lot in them with indoor bouldering, only the toe patch has no grip for hooking at all. At €90 I found them overpriced
I just bought some anasazi pros and they are very nice. Can't wait to do some indoor at Kendal tomorrow
“Every climber needs them, wants them, and let’s be honest, lusts after them”
Charles Albert: *laughs in V17*
Are you planning to review shoes from Ocun? You sell them on your e-shop and I am courious how they compare to other brands.
🤣🤣👌👌
No comparison. They're terrible when compared to anything La Sportiva, Evolv, Tenaya or 5.10
@@ashhodson2063 But they introduced new models this year and they look promising.
@@marekzelinka1657 promising isn't good enough nowadays. I like proven shoes that have kept promises
Definitely nothing wrong with them, especially indoors. The sizing is a bit weird, comparable to 5-10. Definitely a good option when you're on a budget, a lot of my fellow climbing students use them at 90 euros for a high end shoe
You said that you sized the boostic aggressively. What size did you choose? Did you choose your street size or size down? How far?
The Scarpa Boostic and Booster are the epitome of climbing shoe technology from the ceramic microsuede to the PAF heels and use of alcantara to formation of the midsole shaping for increased sensitivity without edging loss. I bring those out for plenty of boulders where the crux is more small edge than power smears where the Booster more shines.
As well, what a comfortable shoe for how technical this is, right out of the box even, wear em for projecting and board sessions all the time without having to stop.
My only qualm is the style…they just don’t look good to me lol
Booster on paper was the perfect shoe for me but unfortunately when I tried them on, the shape and curvature just wasn't right. Heel cup was too big as well.
So, is the Boostic also good for indoor bouldering?
what pants are you wearing onthe climbing clips?.
Don’t know why you’d need three shoes if you only have two feet but ok?
Do you have any recommendations for a beginner shoe (bouldering indoors), I hear so many different opinions on what to get
Honestly won't matter too much. Out of the ones ppl recommended try them on and pick the one that suits your foot shape & a style you like.
You'll wear through them quickly enough while improving your technique.
veloce are probably the best if you can afford them
I absalutely love my hiangle pros. I also own phatoms and futuras, but its hard to beat the c4 stealth rubber that won janja gold
Janja would have won gold even with street shoes on
Not original Stealth rubber sadly. Adidas attempt at Stealth
Mad Rock Remora Tokyo edition ✊🏽
What is the difference between zenist and elektra. I'm sorry. I forgot what the male version is called? My son needs new shoes. I get to keep his old ones since they are my size. This will be the only time that happens!
The Zenist would be waaay softer and more flexible.
No Edge shoes are still my favorite
Which hoodie is the one you're wearing? 😁😁
I freaking love the zenist sadly the toe on mine are torn but these shoes are my favorite, would definitely get them again.
Any idea how they compare to the Skwama's?
@@thesii213 skwamas are way firmer, more comparable to the phantoms imo
@@zuk207 Missed this, thanks!
You can’t tell me the zenist isn’t a carbon copy of the skwama
That’s what I though but the zenist is waaaaay waaaay softer. I’d take the sqwarma for an all round shoe that works well on tiny edges
I thought the same, but it looks a lot like the Evolv Nexxo actually. Which predated the Skwama.
The Zenist being featured is cool, but no Phantoms? I am disappointed.
Phantom is 2020 shoe
@@juliahabaj5866 Still, deserves to be on the list. It's one of the best shoes this century.
it was featured in the 2020 vid @@5tr4nge75
Super review ...congrats
I just got my first pair of Tenayas , and they fit my foot like a glove.
I'll never go back to those shitty La Sportiva Solution shoes I used to have, where the straps in the back were sown on the _inside of the shoe_ with sharp, hard edges always giving me blisters on the heel (which felt inhumanly large). Don't get me wrong, pretty much anything will be much better than rental shoes, but Tenayas are just so much better than La Sportiva for the same price. My La Sportiva shoes also got cracks and holes in the rubber quite prematurely, and I hope the same won't happen to my new Tenayas.
Nice one Henrik, there is a lot of love for the tenayas these days, glad u managed to find your pair 🤘
Why don't climbing shoes come in more than one color?
From my perspective it'd result in more time and costs to adjust at the manufacturing process. Additionally while you might get insight into the kind of colours ppl prefer, you'll end up with a bunch of stock ppl arent willing to buy.
There's already a big flaw with some companies marketing Low volume shoes as women and High volume as mens as we know different genders buy for the fit but can be turned off by colour & names that traditionally gear it towards a specific gender.
@@rhyhl as a new guy who wears low volume shoes, I'm glad I was told the differences were pretty much only color and width, I wouldn't have thought to get the woman's shoe other wise and would probably just be very uncomfortable alwways
also is it just me, or do the "women's shoes" always have nicer colors? I got the evolv Kiras, which are the low volume version of the kronos, and these come in a nice teal vs plain black of the kronos
@@amr1t_ Ah yes that's because _checks dated gender norms chart_ only women appreciate aesthetics and men either dislike aesthetics or want to appear tough and rugged. Can't do none of that with teal on your feet, big guy! Also men never have narrow feet.
The fact low-volume shoes are branded as women's shoes in the first place says a lot about these companies' way of thinking.
@@ChrysusTV heh I think it’s just a remnant of the past, honestly. Nowadays evolv calls all of them unisex and just designates their shoes as low volume or not on their website, but REI still has them under womens shoe. Interesting
I dont care. I tried so many god damn shoes and always come back to the Testarossas. I think I cant be convinced there is something better for me anymore :D
Scarpa Mago is the same designer for the same purpose, all about applying a huge amount of power through a poor and precise foothold on an overhang. Far prefer the heel and lacing of the Mago compared to even the old Testarossa but especially the heel on the newer one.
However, while these are amazing shoes, they are rather narrow in use case, and I find the Booster and Chimera coming out for far more climbs, especially in gyms.
@@zacharylaschober For me, the heel on new testarossa is the best heel Ive ever climbed with. Also the rossas are literally the widest shoes from sportiva and generally the widest shoe I have ever tried.
Oh nice I was going to get the testarossa actually! I have the Genius at the moment and love them
@@MF-CLIMB Testarossa gives you more support and a tighter heel, and a very good suction fit. The genius is better on volumes and round edges, thanks to its softness and no-edge. Sizing wise they are the same, testarossa feeling a bit tighter since its a more supportive shoe. Hope it helps.
yessss the zenist
The flagships are poorly made subpar climbing shoes, I’ve gone through 3 at this point… don’t waste you time on them
really? mine are holding up pretty well (for 3x week indoor bouldering) about 6 months in. I definitely had issues with Unparallel Regulus in terms of quality checks, with the left heel just randomly collapsing (no actual dead space - just extra rubber and less structure than the right shoe)
So poor that you bought 3 pairs?!?!
Boostics are great, dunno why you've for 2nd and 3rd there. Evolve are junk and UP are just churning out dated and old designs with a weird fit. 🤷♂️
Do elaborate on why evolv is junk. When you make such claims, it'd be best to back them up with at least something.
@@scottwangkl8882 taken you a while to generate that response. Speaking from personal experience and seeing with my own eyes the build quality is poor, peeling toe rubber and changed the fit.
@@smashbadger2460 more like it took me a while to find this video. I'm giving Evolv a try since the Zenist is an interesting shoe. Guess I'll have to make my own judgement when I start using them!
@@scottwangkl8882 sorry I did start that with a truly bitchy comment! I used to use Pontas and the first Shaman. Quality shoes. Since then they've really died which is sad
all too expensive
Compared to what?
Go mad rock then. Remora, Shark 2.0, Drone or Redline Strap primarily depending on your needs
Without a pair of la sportivas in this list you loose all credit with me. More good climbers in the world wear them than any other brand. Enough said.
You do realise that a lot of them are sponsored so they have to wear them, right? And by that logic, 5.10 should be on this list, even after being bought over by Adidas but in many people's opinion, the newer shoes post-Acquisition arent great.
And sure, La Sport is great there's no doubt. But it's not like Scarpa is a small time brand either and Evolv seems to be making their way up in the ranks with Colin Duffy and Chris Sharma sporting them.
@@scottwangkl8882 having climbed for 12 years I understand they are sponsored. But I hang out with climbers who have climbed 20-30 years. I know a thing or two about climbing shoes.
@@blade1535 great to hear about your experience! I just purchased a pair of Evolvs so I'm interested to know what people think of them, especially on newer models.
Edit: and for the record, just calling them "trash" just doesn't provide any idea to me but if you're too busy then by all means
@@scottwangkl8882Chris Sharma use Tenaya