A great topic as lots of archers, including me have struggled with TP. I recently watched a video describing how to get the feeling needed to rotate your shoulder best through the expansion phase. It made a tremendous difference. Though I thought I was making a motion that was rotating my shoulder, I was really just pulling back harder. It wasn't working. To get the feeling needed, hold your draw arm straight out in front of you. Then pull your shoulder to the rear which essentially slides your shoulder rearward on the socket. That is the motion/feeling you want to imitate when expanding to get your feather to your nose. Its not just pulling back harder on the bowstring. Thought the motion is quite subtle when viewed by someone watching, it makes a big difference in the ease with which you can get that damn feather to your nose. Good luck in your quest!!!
I’ve been using the feather to nose for years now. There is no doubt that this technique has its pros on the mental game, and not so much the form stuff. Luckily the mental game is 90% of it. I see all the time that folks with unconsistant ways and folks who absolutely want to draw the bow the exstra inch can’t make this work. One need to adapt to this technique, and stop thinking that this method will adapt to them, because it aint gonna happen. It takes time. Good video brother
Hey my friend. I never really have had target panic. Buck fever when I was young. For me I draw into back tension now and then move my face into my anchor position and release. This 3 under game is new to me after 30 or 40 years of instinctive. I tried all of that complicated Joel Turner Tom Clum crap. I just decided to draw into back tension and settle behind the arrow. I mean if we are gonna get all complicated might as well shoot a compound😂
@@UncleDanBand64 I hear you. But the feather to nose technique can actually be used uncomplicated. Even for a snapshooter it’ll work. The reason beeing that the feather is just infront of the nose anyway. So one might as well draw back til it touches and then release.
@peterjuulsgaard yes I agree. I think traditional archery is like golf lots of folks struggle with it. I think something like feather to nose is a simple way to have a consistent draw length. All of the clickers and psycho triggers, not so much. We just need to practice. If we are hunters keep our ranges within our abilities. You are a great shot.
After watching the Lancaster classic two years ago I changed from shooting on the side of my face. Now i put the nock right on the end of my nose ,push with my bow hand and look down the arrow like a shotgun barrel.
Notes from Basics, Basics, Basics Rod Jenkins at Compton 2023 Beginning archers need to follow the basics as do high level shooters. The only difference is high level shooters are trying to perfect the basics. 1) Stance - Head upright and relaxed. Do not move your head away from this as it is not repeatable. 2) Shoulders aligned - Your bow jumps to target at release if it is torque free this is your best indicator. 3) Fork for grip top of hand parallel to ground. This rotates your elbow for better clearance. 4) Get the tension out of your string hand for a better release. It’s not a release, just simply stop holding the string. 5) An anchor is a two-point system. If using a tooth, it must be an upper tooth as it is fixed to the skull. 6) Balance pulling such that the push forward is just 1 pound more than the rhomboid pull. Pull only with your rhomboids. To activate or get the feeling lay on the floor and lift yourself with your elbow. 7) Expand into the shot which is a rotation of the elbow to your bow shoulder. Moving elbow can trigger release of the string with a relaxed string arm. The check here is your finish position if you’re using your rhomboid then your hand will be close and tight. 8) There is a time to aim, and it is not too early not too early as your subconscious will say your locked on let the string go. So first be mechanically ready, then do your aim, then work mentally to get a good shot off. Your Subconscious is like a 2-year-old child it has not discipline stay in the conscious mind to control the shot. 9) Shot concludes when arrow hits the target not until. 10) Look for the string blur - it should be in the same place every shot just slightly left of center on your upper limb. 11) If you cant your bow it happens at the waist with a “stiff “upper body. Cant happens at waist 12) String side elbow is always higher than the nose. 13) Arm pulling pushes the release outside not behind you. Use it as an indicator. 14) Control your sub consciousness that 2-year-old child. Do not let it run your shot it is the demon in target panic. 15) Change the way you think - stay in the conscious mind. Determine everything is right before you let the shot go. Blank bailing is a great teacher here.
I had to move my feathers up towards the nock so I could get the feather to nose. I found feather to nose was good for 18 yards but anything past that like 30 yards I had trouble getting the feather to nose shooting from the ground. Right now I anchor to my cheek bone with my index finger and middle finger corner of mouth..
Yes it is critical with the set up of feathers. I believe I positioned my feathers one quarter of an inch from the base of the arrow nock down the arrow shaft. So the inside fork of the nock to the feather gave me a half inch or more just to get to my nose on expansion. It was enough clearance for my fingers on the string. I was afraid my string finger and hook get in the way of the feathers apon release but was not the case!!! What was your outcome to fit your style of feather to nose technique?
check out Rick Welch .... his draw cycle. He's a world champion.. has a 1on 1.... 2 day school and has a couple instructional videos out... but most of his videos are his students shooting.
Nice demo on the nose feather setup! How you like the feather rest on that 59 you've got? I tried one on my Supermag 48.. Craziest arrow flight I've ever had! Tried one full day of tuning up and down with nock height..in and out with the brace, different strike plate positions and arrow centers with two different arrows that fly consistently off the calf hair shelf..went back to calf hair with a 1\4" wide x 3\32 high bump. Only thing I can figure is that 3 under on this short bow some how makes the feather rest compress and rebound causing very erratic arrow contact..was looking for unattainable fairy dust forgiveness lol.. I do best with a narrow contact rock solid shelf..bump no wider than the arrow shaft..oh and perfectly clocked nocks keeping fletching contact to a minimum on the outside feather. Subject wander off.
Target panic is thinking too much and waiting too long to release . Follow the fundamental cycle every time . Proper consistent repeatable form . Unless there's a dangerous game animal charging towards You .Dont panic , focus on the cycle .
A great topic as lots of archers, including me have struggled with TP. I recently watched a video describing how to get the feeling needed to rotate your shoulder best through the expansion phase. It made a tremendous difference. Though I thought I was making a motion that was rotating my shoulder, I was really just pulling back harder. It wasn't working. To get the feeling needed, hold your draw arm straight out in front of you. Then pull your shoulder to the rear which essentially slides your shoulder rearward on the socket. That is the motion/feeling you want to imitate when expanding to get your feather to your nose. Its not just pulling back harder on the bowstring. Thought the motion is quite subtle when viewed by someone watching, it makes a big difference in the ease with which you can get that damn feather to your nose. Good luck in your quest!!!
I’ve been using the feather to nose for years now. There is no doubt that this technique has its pros on the mental game, and not so much the form stuff. Luckily the mental game is 90% of it. I see all the time that folks with unconsistant ways and folks who absolutely want to draw the bow the exstra inch can’t make this work. One need to adapt to this technique, and stop thinking that this method will adapt to them, because it aint gonna happen. It takes time. Good video brother
Hey my friend. I never really have had target panic. Buck fever when I was young. For me I draw into back tension now and then move my face into my anchor position and release. This 3 under game is new to me after 30 or 40 years of instinctive. I tried all of that complicated Joel Turner Tom Clum crap. I just decided to draw into back tension and settle behind the arrow. I mean if we are gonna get all complicated might as well shoot a compound😂
@@UncleDanBand64 I hear you. But the feather to nose technique can actually be used uncomplicated. Even for a snapshooter it’ll work. The reason beeing that the feather is just infront of the nose anyway. So one might as well draw back til it touches and then release.
@peterjuulsgaard yes I agree. I think traditional archery is like golf lots of folks struggle with it. I think something like feather to nose is a simple way to have a consistent draw length. All of the clickers and psycho triggers, not so much. We just need to practice. If we are hunters keep our ranges within our abilities. You are a great shot.
After watching the Lancaster classic two years ago I changed from shooting on the side of my face. Now i put the nock right on the end of my nose ,push with my bow hand and look down the arrow like a shotgun barrel.
Notes from Basics, Basics, Basics Rod Jenkins at Compton 2023
Beginning archers need to follow the basics as do high level shooters. The only difference is high level shooters are trying to perfect the basics.
1) Stance - Head upright and relaxed. Do not move your head away from this as it is not repeatable.
2) Shoulders aligned - Your bow jumps to target at release if it is torque free this is your best indicator.
3) Fork for grip top of hand parallel to ground. This rotates your elbow for better clearance.
4) Get the tension out of your string hand for a better release. It’s not a release, just simply stop holding the string.
5) An anchor is a two-point system. If using a tooth, it must be an upper tooth as it is fixed to the skull.
6) Balance pulling such that the push forward is just 1 pound more than the rhomboid pull. Pull only with your rhomboids. To activate or get the feeling lay on the floor and lift yourself with your elbow.
7) Expand into the shot which is a rotation of the elbow to your bow shoulder. Moving elbow can trigger release of the string with a relaxed string arm. The check here is your finish position if you’re using your rhomboid then your hand will be close and tight.
8) There is a time to aim, and it is not too early not too early as your subconscious will say your locked on let the string go. So first be mechanically ready, then do your aim, then work mentally to get a good shot off. Your Subconscious is like a 2-year-old child it has not discipline stay in the conscious mind to control the shot.
9) Shot concludes when arrow hits the target not until.
10) Look for the string blur - it should be in the same place every shot just slightly left of center on your upper limb.
11) If you cant your bow it happens at the waist with a “stiff “upper body. Cant happens at waist
12) String side elbow is always higher than the nose.
13) Arm pulling pushes the release outside not behind you. Use it as an indicator.
14) Control your sub consciousness that 2-year-old child. Do not let it run your shot it is the demon in target panic.
15) Change the way you think - stay in the conscious mind. Determine everything is right before you let the shot go. Blank bailing is a great teacher here.
Fantastic video and tips
I had to move my feathers up towards the nock so I could get the feather to nose. I found feather to nose was good for 18 yards but anything past that like 30 yards I had trouble getting the feather to nose shooting from the ground. Right now I anchor to my cheek bone with my index finger and middle finger corner of mouth..
Yep. That feather placement/shaping/clocking is super critical
Yes it is critical with the set up of feathers. I believe I positioned my feathers one quarter of an inch from the base of the arrow nock down the arrow shaft. So the inside fork of the nock to the feather gave me a half inch or more just to get to my nose on expansion. It was enough clearance for my fingers on the string. I was afraid my string finger and hook get in the way of the feathers apon release but was not the case!!! What was your outcome to fit your style of feather to nose technique?
check out Rick Welch .... his draw cycle. He's a world champion.. has a 1on 1.... 2 day school and has a couple instructional videos out... but most of his videos are his students shooting.
Nice demo on the nose feather setup! How you like the feather rest on that 59 you've got? I tried one on my Supermag 48.. Craziest arrow flight I've ever had! Tried one full day of tuning up and down with nock height..in and out with the brace, different strike plate positions and arrow centers with two different arrows that fly consistently off the calf hair shelf..went back to calf hair with a 1\4" wide x 3\32 high bump. Only thing I can figure is that 3 under on this short bow some how makes the feather rest compress and rebound causing very erratic arrow contact..was looking for unattainable fairy dust forgiveness lol.. I do best with a narrow contact rock solid shelf..bump no wider than the arrow shaft..oh and perfectly clocked nocks keeping fletching contact to a minimum on the outside feather. Subject wander off.
May be the feather rest causing issues it sounds like.
Target panic is thinking too much and waiting too long to release . Follow the fundamental cycle every time . Proper consistent repeatable form . Unless there's a dangerous game animal charging towards You .Dont panic , focus on the cycle .