got an st1100, got as far as taking the plastics off and to be fair was clueless at that point, lucky for me the design of the 1100 and 1300 are some what similar and this video has given me a good understanding of the process, thanks so much.
I do have my thoughts. At first one handy advice: I learned to fill my reserve tank progressive up to the maximum line. So I can see the fluid level and also it being clear as it was new, when the ST1300 is on its side stand. No need to be level in between Min and Max whatsoever. What is the use of transparency when you can not see it? There is more to reserve tanks, so let me explain. Those may one day burst or start leaking on the outlet. So what I do is suck, by any means but by mouth, the fluid out of it and leave the plastic container into place. You could rinse it with de-mineralized water when needed. Quite like all of the system is to be flushed when mess comes out. Usually I ignore it completely. Point is, the connecting hose should either stay full or should be bled from air that may have entered removing it. One will find out if the hose remains to be full, when taking time and watching the level in the reserve after draining. When in doubt the hose is disconnected and filled at either end with, for example, a paint syringe. The reserve, that is, goes more full or empty with pressure and under pressure in the engine/radiator circuit. There can be a vent in the cap or a vent separately. Motorcycles with low pressure cooling systems also exist, they have no pressure cap. When the coolant overheats, either boils or passes beyond very high temperatures, some coolant will spill into the reserve. The possibility of repeatedly boiling is why you should enable to see its color easily as mentioned above. Coolant gets dark from exhaust gasses entering. Now when there is any coolant leak and the ST1300 even has a weep hole for coolant, passing a soft and self repairing seal at the water pump (later years have a spill hose attached), the under pressure from cooling water after the ride is going to suck from the reserve. Sucking being the only action at this point would let air in when the small hose contains air. Air in the system would prevent reserve being sucked in because air is not a solid but flexible. Combined with an existing small leak, that should be avoided and the temperature sensor is down below, not where engine and coolant overheating is noticed. The reserve tank hose on this bike is going up. So I personally would make sure it remains filled with the old fluid. I hope I don't bother you with a Friday discussion now but every fluid is called either anti-freeze or coolant. Coolants should have the benefit of a considerably higher boiling point, metal protectors (no silicate metal protection, or phosphate, is the way to go, so never use any where silicate free is not mentioned on the bottle) and antifreeze down to very low temperatures. You should get all three. Honda developed silicate free coolant, probably after early Goldwings got broken waterpumps. Anyway, they recognized its importance. It is called Honda Coolant Type 2. Every owner should know what their coolant can do. Your bottle shows no further benefits. This is the specification of Type 2, either 50 percent ready for use or 100 percent to be diluted with de-mineralized water: "Honda Type 2 coolant is an ethylene glycol base product for extra long lasting aluminum component protection. Honda coolant has been developed to provide corrosion and rust protection of all cooling system components. Requires no additional corrosion inhibitors. When used as directed in Honda vehicles, this coolant will give complete protection for 5 years or 100,000km. This All Season Antifreeze/Coolant TYPE 2 is formulated with de-mineralized water. Concentration: 50% Boiling point: 131.1C Freezing point: -36.6C " Buy no counterfeit, as there are many all over the Internet. Many stores in the US have it and Honda car dealers do in any country where it is not imported for resale. Now the amount, being asked for. It is: 2.81 US quarts in the engine and radiator with .9 quart in the reserve tank. Being metric it reads 2.65925 liter en 0.851718 liter. Every time, at my bikes, I could look into the opening of the radiator (using small mirror and pocket light sometimes) and see the thermostat straight down. It is good to check visibly if the ring at least is in closed position. This is because thermostats can dissolve and fall apart. There are other means to check thermostats being stuck in positions; the displayed engine temperature not on three bars, problems with reaching operating temperature, excessieve heat for the rider from the engine and not feeling temperature sudden change on the thick upper hose after a couple of minutes, when the engine already felt warm. Feel free to watch any of my road video's because you are great!
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
got an st1100, got as far as taking the plastics off and to be fair was clueless at that point, lucky for me the design of the 1100 and 1300 are some what similar and this video has given me a good understanding of the process, thanks so much.
change for what ? no need for,looks good.
Why not take that blinker out of the way?
I do have my thoughts.
At first one handy advice: I learned to fill my reserve tank progressive up to the maximum line. So I can see the fluid level and also it being clear as it was new, when the ST1300 is on its side stand. No need to be level in between Min and Max whatsoever. What is the use of transparency when you can not see it?
There is more to reserve tanks, so let me explain. Those may one day burst or start leaking on the outlet. So what I do is suck, by any means but by mouth, the fluid out of it and leave the plastic container into place. You could rinse it with de-mineralized water when needed. Quite like all of the system is to be flushed when mess comes out. Usually I ignore it completely.
Point is, the connecting hose should either stay full or should be bled from air that may have entered removing it.
One will find out if the hose remains to be full, when taking time and watching the level in the reserve after draining. When in doubt the hose is disconnected and filled at either end with, for example, a paint syringe.
The reserve, that is, goes more full or empty with pressure and under pressure in the engine/radiator circuit. There can be a vent in the cap or a vent separately. Motorcycles with low pressure cooling systems also exist, they have no pressure cap. When the coolant overheats, either boils or passes beyond very high temperatures, some coolant will spill into the reserve. The possibility of repeatedly boiling is why you should enable to see its color easily as mentioned above. Coolant gets dark from exhaust gasses entering.
Now when there is any coolant leak and the ST1300 even has a weep hole for coolant, passing a soft and self repairing seal at the water pump (later years have a spill hose attached), the under pressure from cooling water after the ride is going to suck from the reserve. Sucking being the only action at this point would let air in when the small hose contains air. Air in the system would prevent reserve being sucked in because air is not a solid but flexible. Combined with an existing small leak, that should be avoided and the temperature sensor is down below, not where engine and coolant overheating is noticed. The reserve tank hose on this bike is going up. So I personally would make sure it remains filled with the old fluid.
I hope I don't bother you with a Friday discussion now but every fluid is called either anti-freeze or coolant. Coolants should have the benefit of a considerably higher boiling point, metal protectors (no silicate metal protection, or phosphate, is the way to go, so never use any where silicate free is not mentioned on the bottle) and antifreeze down to very low temperatures. You should get all three. Honda developed silicate free coolant, probably after early Goldwings got broken waterpumps. Anyway, they recognized its importance. It is called Honda Coolant Type 2. Every owner should know what their coolant can do. Your bottle shows no further benefits. This is the specification of Type 2, either 50 percent ready for use or 100 percent to be diluted with de-mineralized water: "Honda Type 2 coolant is an ethylene glycol base product for extra long lasting
aluminum component protection. Honda coolant has been developed to provide
corrosion and rust protection of all cooling system components.
Requires no additional corrosion inhibitors.
When used as directed in Honda vehicles, this coolant will give complete
protection for 5 years or 100,000km. This All Season Antifreeze/Coolant TYPE 2
is formulated with de-mineralized water. Concentration: 50% Boiling point:
131.1C Freezing point: -36.6C "
Buy no counterfeit, as there are many all over the Internet. Many stores in the US have it and Honda car dealers do in any country where it is not imported for resale.
Now the amount, being asked for. It is: 2.81 US quarts in the engine and radiator with .9 quart in the reserve tank. Being metric it reads 2.65925 liter en 0.851718 liter.
Every time, at my bikes, I could look into the opening of the radiator (using small mirror and pocket light sometimes) and see the thermostat straight down. It is good to check visibly if the ring at least is in closed position. This is because thermostats can dissolve and fall apart. There are other means to check thermostats being stuck in positions; the displayed engine temperature not on three bars, problems with reaching operating temperature, excessieve heat for the rider from the engine and not feeling temperature sudden change on the thick upper hose after a couple of minutes, when the engine already felt warm. Feel free to watch any of my road video's because you are great!