After nearly 4-years, the day has come where I take the V10 Ultima on its maiden voyage. Does it go as planned? You'll have to watch and see what happens. Enjoy episode-48!
90% done, only 50% more work. Great job. Greetings from the UK. Wow, it’s the best experience helicopter Monaco, and really not expensive, to feel like a million dollars
So true. It was 100euro (30-minute) cab ride from Nice to my hotel in Monaco. And the chopper was 195euro and 7 minutes. Time is money and this is a bargain!
Tip Before anything else try the following Using ratchet straps put pressure on the panels to close the gap, just a bit of pressure not too much. Heat the riveted areas that control the gap with a hot air gun while tapping with a rubber mallet. Measure the door gap before and after applying the ratchet straps. Leave the straps on for a few days occasionally checking the gap and heating the joins. You should be able to get at least one millimetre of movement and possibly all that is required. Fibreglass bends and distorts in storage so the problem might not be user error.
Dan, you have done a great job on this car, incredible engine choice, my buddy has a 2 wheel drive Hurricane and it’s a fabulous motor. Perfect choice for your car. You have made a fantastic job documenting the realistic challenges and the details of the build. Sure this summer you’ll be burning rubber. I am going back over all your videos, as I would really like to do a build, but using Mercedes V8 power, so very useful information.
@@bernardwarr4187 probably the most difficult part has been retaining the factory engine ECUs and transmission ECU. I considered going full MoTeC aftermarket ECU setup but to the tune of $20k+ (including all tuning required), I decided to stick with the OEM setup. Had to have the ECUs customized by a tuner to eliminate/bypass the electronic security immobilizer (since I didn’t have the original key or security subsystem). I’m currently reverse engineering CAN BUS signals for engine telemetry to integrate with my MoTeC C127 display. Probably could hire a tuner to do this too but I enjoy learning myself. Anyway, this has been the trickiest part.
Great work as always. Tantalisingly close to driving, but at least you have a good lead on the issue, so fingers crossed it will allow this beast to drive next time once solved. Merry Christmas to you and your family from Ireland
I once drove through Monaco including a significant portion of the track without actual knowing that I had done so as I was on my way somewhere in a hurry and would have been obvious to had the people I met with had not asked how much did I enjoy the drive? I also drove through the Diana tunnel and can testify that the accident wasn’t entirely the driver’s fault, I almost lost control at the posted speed limit and came close to that pillar, the road has a bend and a dip just in the wrong spot. In an extended wheel base vehicle that wants to go straight ahead much more than a short vehicle, being distracted and going a bit over the limit could easily be fatal.
Felt like the ebrake was on. But if you can push the car its not :) You can do the Basic settings of gearbox and clutch with the VCDS. Get the gearbox up to temp, parking brake engaged. And if you get success result it have learnt the position of clutch and gears. Great project!
Hi Peter! I'm honored that you watch my vid(s). I'm a huge fan of yours! I poked around in the Transmission module in VCDS but didn't find anything obvious. Might you have some additional instructions you can share on where to find the basic gearbox settings and clutch in VCDS? Thanks again for your comments--hopefully this is an easy fix. I made sure the ebrake was not on...and weirdly, once i put the car in D or R, it inched forward ever so slightly momentarily. It feels like the clutch is *barely* engaging...
@@DanDulac Cool! thanks! In 02 Auto trans. There is Basic settings. In there you can run Basic settings of transmission. You must erase any fault codes first, and gearbox up to temp. Engine must run and i think also parking brake and brake pedal.
Almost! But its already done! Ill miss this build! Its getting so god! I have Heard that última have those problems in the body work But its not a big deal... Congrats dude! Its became a awsome project... What are you going to do next!!!!!?????
Hey Dan, what an amazing build. I’m going to guess that doing a bit of body work on that passenger door is well within your abilities. Tell me more about this wrap job you mentioned!
Ah yes, the wrap I’m planning. I don’t want to give it away…but it will look like a race car on the street. 😁. It will be 3 tone color scheme. That’s all I’m going to say for now. 👍
Well done Dan, no need to rush for us. Each step is useful! With the bodywork, my guess is that the parts fit but you may need to loosen all and adjust it progressively (you may have been meticulous with the rivets, but the tolerances have simply cumulated. I would suggest you avoid using any type of filler containing fibreglass, it will simply drop off.
Dan, just a thought, my Audi will not let me put the car in gear/move if the door (or trunk/hood) are open. Is it possible the tcu is looking for that validation in order to move?
For the panel gap, how is the front clam fitting? My guess is that you’ll have to drill out some rivets for everything to align… Loving your progress!!!
I’ve been learning it bit by bit (pun intended). I’ll definitely put a vid together to share my learnings and process. I’ve learned it’s not that hard if you can narrow things down and reduce as much chatter on the bus as possible. 👍
When you get a moment drill out the rivets which are vertical on each front corner above the suspension mount and replace it with a rivet about twice the size. That area must be a focal point for stresses as I've seen them sheared off on at least 3 cars. (I've built or been involved with building at least 5 cars now).
For the gap, is the hinge itself not adjustable? So the connection hinge/chassis i assume should have some adjustability. Like any other car i have put doors on... Maybe measuring the whole opening from both sides should clear things out.
Unfortunately there’s zero adjustability in the door hinge. It’s all based on placement of the front canopy. In hindsight, I should have test fitted the doors *before* permanently mounting the front canopy. But I have a plan to fix; wont be that hard…just an inconvenience.
What fault codes are in the mechatronic? I don’t think you can Odis in your mech as component protection won’t work on your car without stock ecus. You probably need a de immo tune( tune or stock) flashed into box. Vcds won’t do component protection.
I’m running stock ECUs with an immo tune (that disables the immobilizer). I then needed to change out the mechatronic and TCM since they too had immo. So I’m running a TCM and mechatronic from a 2015 Huracan (no trans immo that model year). No trans fault codes except for “incorrect software version” which is presumably caused by 2017 ECMs mixed in with 2015 TCM. VCDS recognizes gear input changes from the control buttons so I’m close. It feels like the clutches aren’t engaging. Anyway, I’m gonna keep at it and see if I can have my tuner give me a hand. Thanks for your suggestions!!
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90% done, only 50% more work. Great job. Greetings from the UK. Wow, it’s the best experience helicopter Monaco, and really not expensive, to feel like a million dollars
So true. It was 100euro (30-minute) cab ride from Nice to my hotel in Monaco. And the chopper was 195euro and 7 minutes. Time is money and this is a bargain!
Tip
Before anything else try the following
Using ratchet straps put pressure on the panels to close the gap, just a bit of pressure not too much.
Heat the riveted areas that control the gap with a hot air gun while tapping with a rubber mallet.
Measure the door gap before and after applying the ratchet straps.
Leave the straps on for a few days occasionally checking the gap and heating the joins.
You should be able to get at least one millimetre of movement and possibly all that is required.
Fibreglass bends and distorts in storage so the problem might not be user error.
Great tip! I'll give this a shot. Thank you!!!
Getting close and can hear your excitement 👍let's hope the gearbox activation is the quick fix
Looking for the grinder guard police!!! 👮 lol great job sir I love this build!!!!
Dan, you have done a great job on this car, incredible engine choice, my buddy has a 2 wheel drive Hurricane and it’s a fabulous motor. Perfect choice for your car. You have made a fantastic job documenting the realistic challenges and the details of the build. Sure this summer you’ll be burning rubber. I am going back over all your videos, as I would really like to do a build, but using Mercedes V8 power, so very useful information.
There’s so many different engine transplants I’d like to try…thanks for your comments!!
@@DanDulac what’s been the most challenging part of the build and what would you do differently next time?
@@bernardwarr4187 probably the most difficult part has been retaining the factory engine ECUs and transmission ECU. I considered going full MoTeC aftermarket ECU setup but to the tune of $20k+ (including all tuning required), I decided to stick with the OEM setup. Had to have the ECUs customized by a tuner to eliminate/bypass the electronic security immobilizer (since I didn’t have the original key or security subsystem). I’m currently reverse engineering CAN BUS signals for engine telemetry to integrate with my MoTeC C127 display. Probably could hire a tuner to do this too but I enjoy learning myself. Anyway, this has been the trickiest part.
@@DanDulac surprising, what’s got to happen now adays to get a modern high tech engine ecu to light up, let alone run the motor.
Sounds like a beast. Looking forward to the test drive
Great work as always. Tantalisingly close to driving, but at least you have a good lead on the issue, so fingers crossed it will allow this beast to drive next time once solved.
Merry Christmas to you and your family from Ireland
Looks really close Dan. Don’t press. Positive energy to you alway. ANTICIPATION is severe to see this girl roll !!!
What great progress, so close, can't wait to see this thing rolling!
So close i can taste it!! And once it does roll under its own power, those tires don't have a prayer.
@@DanDulac lol
I once drove through Monaco including a significant portion of the track without actual knowing that I had done so as I was on my way somewhere in a hurry and would have been obvious to had the people I met with had not asked how much did I enjoy the drive?
I also drove through the Diana tunnel and can testify that the accident wasn’t entirely the driver’s fault, I almost lost control at the posted speed limit and came close to that pillar, the road has a bend and a dip just in the wrong spot. In an extended wheel base vehicle that wants to go straight ahead much more than a short vehicle, being distracted and going a bit over the limit could easily be fatal.
Hi Dan, instead of body working the thin edge of the door would it be stronger to build up the rear edge of the fender 👍
Felt like the ebrake was on. But if you can push the car its not :)
You can do the Basic settings of gearbox and clutch with the VCDS. Get the gearbox up to temp, parking brake engaged. And if you get success result it have learnt the position of clutch and gears.
Great project!
Hi Peter! I'm honored that you watch my vid(s). I'm a huge fan of yours! I poked around in the Transmission module in VCDS but didn't find anything obvious. Might you have some additional instructions you can share on where to find the basic gearbox settings and clutch in VCDS? Thanks again for your comments--hopefully this is an easy fix. I made sure the ebrake was not on...and weirdly, once i put the car in D or R, it inched forward ever so slightly momentarily. It feels like the clutch is *barely* engaging...
@@DanDulac Cool! thanks! In 02 Auto trans. There is Basic settings. In there you can run Basic settings of transmission. You must erase any fault codes first, and gearbox up to temp. Engine must run and i think also parking brake and brake pedal.
Almost! But its already done! Ill miss this build! Its getting so god! I have Heard that última have those problems in the body work But its not a big deal... Congrats dude! Its became a awsome project... What are you going to do next!!!!!?????
Hey Dan, what an amazing build. I’m going to guess that doing a bit of body work on that passenger door is well within your abilities.
Tell me more about this wrap job you mentioned!
Ah yes, the wrap I’m planning. I don’t want to give it away…but it will look like a race car on the street. 😁. It will be 3 tone color scheme. That’s all I’m going to say for now. 👍
"Get to the choppa!"
🤣
Well done Dan, no need to rush for us. Each step is useful!
With the bodywork, my guess is that the parts fit but you may need to loosen all and adjust it progressively (you may have been meticulous with the rivets, but the tolerances have simply cumulated.
I would suggest you avoid using any type of filler containing fibreglass, it will simply drop off.
Sick ride. Would have went with the 3 pedal set up. I have this engine in my R8. Amazing sounds.
I love this build! ❤❤❤
It will come to you looks great anyway Regards from Liverpool England
Very cool 👍
Dan, just a thought, my Audi will not let me put the car in gear/move if the door (or trunk/hood) are open. Is it possible the tcu is looking for that validation in order to move?
For the panel gap, how is the front clam fitting? My guess is that you’ll have to drill out some rivets for everything to align…
Loving your progress!!!
Very in for an episode on the reverse engineering/can bus efforts. Can bus has always seemed like such a foreign concept to me.
I’ve been learning it bit by bit (pun intended). I’ll definitely put a vid together to share my learnings and process. I’ve learned it’s not that hard if you can narrow things down and reduce as much chatter on the bus as possible. 👍
When you get a moment drill out the rivets which are vertical on each front corner above the suspension mount and replace it with a rivet about twice the size. That area must be a focal point for stresses as I've seen them sheared off on at least 3 cars. (I've built or been involved with building at least 5 cars now).
Great tip!! 👍🙏
@@DanDulac Another tip for you. Please do not leave the chuck key in your lathe
For the gap, is the hinge itself not adjustable? So the connection hinge/chassis i assume should have some adjustability. Like any other car i have put doors on...
Maybe measuring the whole opening from both sides should clear things out.
Unfortunately there’s zero adjustability in the door hinge. It’s all based on placement of the front canopy. In hindsight, I should have test fitted the doors *before* permanently mounting the front canopy. But I have a plan to fix; wont be that hard…just an inconvenience.
What fault codes are in the mechatronic? I don’t think you can Odis in your mech as component protection won’t work on your car without stock ecus. You probably need a de immo tune( tune or stock) flashed into box. Vcds won’t do component protection.
I’m running stock ECUs with an immo tune (that disables the immobilizer). I then needed to change out the mechatronic and TCM since they too had immo. So I’m running a TCM and mechatronic from a 2015 Huracan (no trans immo that model year). No trans fault codes except for “incorrect software version” which is presumably caused by 2017 ECMs mixed in with 2015 TCM. VCDS recognizes gear input changes from the control buttons so I’m close. It feels like the clutches aren’t engaging. Anyway, I’m gonna keep at it and see if I can have my tuner give me a hand. Thanks for your suggestions!!
Where did the last 4 years of my life go
I ask myself that all the time. 🤣
What are you doing next I love the series
@@derekddanderson1 I have a couple ideas…but nothing finalized yet.
Any VW scan tool you can do it with like VCds
the ebrake is on !
That’s what it felt like. But ebrake was off. 👍
So close!
So close.....