You could take the pipes from old shelter and add them to the new one. More roof rafters will decrease the span between rafters and will decrease the snow load carried by each rafter. Likewise, using the old pipes to add another horizontal beam to the uprights, located half-way up, will decrease the chance of the uprights buckling.
Wow, those kind of suck not having the extra two side rails and relative joints. A few days back I measured the last one I got for free that actually wasn't blown down though the cover was nastier than I wanted, so I left. Anyhow, looks like the 12x20 shelter logic of which is the only one I have that is more like your blown down one in regards to being without the two like end of roof angle inside fascia header thingy pipes down the length. Only side and top one, so three only. Waiting on some pallets for next steps and have enough metal to cover at least the one which will be a 10x12 with french doors from free door ends. Thinking that can use some free pallet wood as well, painted of course since up in the air and I don't want that treated stuff uncoated if is. Neat content! My HF ones seem to all have the pole pieces top smaller diameter sections bent andor cracked at the joints. Joints on the HF ones seem solid. I'll jerry rig the 10x12 from those and looks like some free condiut from a DIY boat lift will fit inside the pole pipes and inside a little loose the joints, so will weld tack those in or maybe tape to increase the diameter so snug and maybe drill and screw.
I'm sold on electric replacing 2 stroke stuff, especially with the hassle of mixing gas/oil and the noise in town. 4 stroke stuff is still many years away from being replaced for anything outside of a suburban postage stamp yard.
Since those structures tend to rust in the same particular spots, can you booger it up in those spots with a big glob of silicone, to keep the water out before the rust even starts?
The tarp covers are good for 2 - 4 years. The sun eats the material and it turns to dust, much like the environmentally disposable plastic bags. I was lucky to buy mine for $400 or less many years ago for the 12' x 20' models, and I have two new ones still in boxes. I intend to take the old frames and shorten the horizontal bars for better snow support, with nearly twice as many legs, and less sag. I will also adapt one of these to accept a standard 20' x 20' tarp, just to keep the snow and rain at bay. The tarps last just as long, but cheaper and easier to replace. (I hope) EDIT: on one shelter, I installed a tarp over the failing original, and it is showing daylight and wear spots at frame contact points.
I had one of those harbor freight tents didn't workout and wind gotta hold it and blew it upside down and turn it Inside out It was garbage Thank you for the video
I tape all my joints with Gorilla tape and drill two holes in the end of two-by-fours for braces and wired them to the frame on the end and along the botrom
I have had success using 1 inch electrical conduit and a heavy-duty tarp . It has lasted years in South Carolina. I was fortunate to have a friend with a huge roll of tarp material and I bought the conduit before the plandemic 😂 I see they are about 10.00 dollars each nowadays. I don't comment much, but I have been a subscriber for years, and I have enjoyed watching your family grow. You have helped me with many projects, thank you.
You could take the pipes from old shelter and add them to the new one. More roof rafters will decrease the span between rafters and will decrease the snow load carried by each rafter. Likewise, using the old pipes to add another horizontal beam to the uprights, located half-way up, will decrease the chance of the uprights buckling.
I like your tarp shed projects, I'm thinking of putting one together with the floor like you have done.
Lookin forward to seein the lil one that's coming grow up... Love you guys
@3:30 Be careful!!! Legend has it that if you say "OSHA" three times an a-hole will show up on the job site. 🤣
Wow, those kind of suck not having the extra two side rails and relative joints. A few days back I measured the last one I got for free that actually wasn't blown down though the cover was nastier than I wanted, so I left. Anyhow, looks like the 12x20 shelter logic of which is the only one I have that is more like your blown down one in regards to being without the two like end of roof angle inside fascia header thingy pipes down the length. Only side and top one, so three only. Waiting on some pallets for next steps and have enough metal to cover at least the one which will be a 10x12 with french doors from free door ends. Thinking that can use some free pallet wood as well, painted of course since up in the air and I don't want that treated stuff uncoated if is. Neat content! My HF ones seem to all have the pole pieces top smaller diameter sections bent andor cracked at the joints. Joints on the HF ones seem solid. I'll jerry rig the 10x12 from those and looks like some free condiut from a DIY boat lift will fit inside the pole pipes and inside a little loose the joints, so will weld tack those in or maybe tape to increase the diameter so snug and maybe drill and screw.
John's turning into an old English sheepdog dog 😂
hands-on family members are a plus.
I'm sold on electric replacing 2 stroke stuff, especially with the hassle of mixing gas/oil and the noise in town. 4 stroke stuff is still many years away from being replaced for anything outside of a suburban postage stamp yard.
Since those structures tend to rust in the same particular spots, can you booger it up in those spots with a big glob of silicone, to keep the water out before the rust even starts?
That is not a bad idea at all on a future build. Never put any thought into it but yes any paint of sealant added would be a good idea.
The tarp covers are good for 2 - 4 years. The sun eats the material and it turns to dust, much like the environmentally disposable plastic bags. I was lucky to buy mine for $400 or less many years ago for the 12' x 20' models, and I have two new ones still in boxes. I intend to take the old frames and shorten the horizontal bars for better snow support, with nearly twice as many legs, and less sag. I will also adapt one of these to accept a standard 20' x 20' tarp, just to keep the snow and rain at bay. The tarps last just as long, but cheaper and easier to replace. (I hope) EDIT: on one shelter, I installed a tarp over the failing original, and it is showing daylight and wear spots at frame contact points.
I had one of those harbor freight tents didn't workout and wind gotta hold it and blew it upside down and turn it Inside out It was garbage Thank you for the video
Jess is the official milk crate tent supervisor.
That looked almost as fun as building a tent in the wind...Oh,..wait..
I tape all my joints with Gorilla tape and drill two holes in the end of two-by-fours for braces and wired them to the frame on the end and along the botrom
Nice, Haven’t seen the bolens in awile, how come?
I have had success using 1 inch electrical conduit and a heavy-duty tarp . It has lasted years in South Carolina. I was fortunate to have a friend with a huge roll of tarp material and I bought the conduit before the plandemic 😂 I see they are about 10.00 dollars each nowadays. I don't comment much, but I have been a subscriber for years, and I have enjoyed watching your family grow. You have helped me with many projects, thank you.
NEIL and his garden gnomes show
Bless her heart, she has to be miserable at this point
Awesome video
I would pay you not to sing again
LOL
Cool
She is a cutie