Ordered the Bottom Shell and also a new frontplate from extremeRate for my Elite Series 2 Controller because the rubber is coming of on both of them. So I can't wait to have an Elite Series 2 WITHOUT the faulty rubbering from Microsoft! Thank you extremeRate for offering these parts so I do not have to throw away my expensive controller!
Protip I found when replacing the shell on a 2nd controller... the free screwdrivers can be magnitised using the old magnets on the origional case :D save having to try and fiddle around putting those in
These videos have an irritating way of making it look easy. Just removing the top and bottom plates could have been a tutorial video in itself. But I followed the instructions as closely as I could and I got there in the end. So now I have a nice new casing for my Elite controller that isn't bubbling and peeling off just a few weeks after its warranty expired. Thought I was going to have to buy a whole new one, so thanks. :)
This video was a huge help. 👏👏 Wouldn't have been able to replace the bottom shell without it! Thank you! Look forward to modding the next controller w/ Xtreme Rate mods! 💓💓 Those T4 screws were the hardest to remove and install. So small and hard to screw it.
Thank you for this guide, I've managed to change the back plate on my controller thanks to this. The rubber on the official back piece is ridiculous and peeled away so quickly
Excellent instructional video, thanks. One addition I would suggest, is the mention of the plastic rings on the front shell. Not all new shells come with them installed and i nearly missed them. Easy to remove. Apologies if they are mentioned and i missed it.
glad i found this, i had gotten a new shell, but after doing all the replacing, found that it didnt click into its station anymore, so came here to see what i missed, just had the magnets in the reverse spots
10:17 This part might be wrong. On the left side, the blue line might need to be placed further back. When I placed it as in the video, the LT's behavior became unstable and I had a terrible experience. Attaching a paddle to the back makes the LT's behavior unstable, and removing the paddle makes it normal. When I used the original bar magnet, it worked normally even with the paddle attached.
Yes I agree, it's probably best to reuse the stick magnets from the original controller, since the new ones provided seem to have the opposite markings, and also since the original ones are interchangeable anyway
Pro tip make sure the skinny magnets are not parralel to eachother. One magnet's line has to be towards to the battery and the other the opposite. This is so they magnetise properly
This just saved me 210€ I was going to spend on the wolverine v3 pro, although it is nice, the audio with headphones is horrible (too low). And I’m tired of the horrible quality of the elite series 2, after two elite controllers this together with a faceplate from extremerate finally seems like the best option
This guide is wonderful and thorough and exactly what I needed to replace a shell that my puppy chewed on. Prior to shell replacement all buttons and sticks worked 100%, all I needed was a shell to keep jagged plastic from digging in while gaming. Now after shell replacement the controller turns on but doesn't appear to connect wirelessly or wired. Any thoughts?
@@ExtremeRate Yes, I ended up tearing it apart and inspecting all wires and circuitry I could see and everything was intact and seemed connected. I put everything back together and tested with various devices. for some reason it took a moment but everything started recognizing again and connected like new! All is well, I have no idea what caused it or the solution
Mine had lines but one up and one down 😅 I'm still putting my controller back together and I'll hazard a guess it doesn't matter too much. They will make the back sticks more secure, I'm guessing.
My elite series is in bad condition the rubber has started to warp and expand out and cause its a few years old I can't get it replaced I was about to buy a while new controller u till I seen this video ... I have now just saved £100 odd by buying a back panel and a front to go with it and it's coming on Wednesday imma follow this video exactly fingers crossed this fixes my controller 😅
well i have a torx 4 screwdriver and i cant for the life of me fit it to remove those devils lol nothing fits, i bet a torx 1 wouldnt remove them still hahaha Does by any chance the halo infinite version have different screws?
Hi! Love the feel of the product. Only thing I’ve encountered is the controller only works when it’s plugged in for some reason. Any thoughts on where I went wrong?
@@kronicracer I've noticed that when I took apart the control. I saw all the cracks inside on the back and face shells of the original. The rubber grip kept it together from completely cracking.
Followed everything, and now the middle triggers of the bottom no longre is working. GG. Haha. Followed everything as stated. Cannot see any damage on the PCB. Cover looks great, though.
Great tutorial and love the look. Unfortunately after doing it all now the controller doesn’t work. It turns on but doesn’t control the Xbox. It still charges on the charger stand. If you plug it in with usb c it turns on but doesn’t let you control the Xbox. Not gonna refund or anything I’m sure it was my mistake. But if you can think of a way to fix it it’d be great !
Have you tried to re assemble the controller again? Maybe you missed something. The video is pretty straightforward and the main mother board and the xyab buttons shouldn't be affected from the back panel installation, unless you accidentally disconnected something. Try also looking at some other videos explaining how to disassemble the controller and put it back together. Hope you'll fix it.
Hi, I bought it and following your amazing tutorial step by step, everything perfect except for the magnets on the back of the controller, they wont stay glued to the back with your method. Any solutions?
Hope you found an answer, but if not. I was lucky enough to still have the sticky in place when I removed my magnets. Also, the cover has plastic guides and you don't really need the sticky. If you're not that lucky, some good quality double sided sticky and a scalpel will do it.
The small adhesive pads don't seem to transfer enough adhesive to the circular magnets. When put into place the magnets just slide away from the shell. Is this normal? Can you use anything else?
I had the same problem and found out the cause. 10:17 It's due to the orientation of the magnet. The bar magnet on the left should have the blue wire facing the battery.
it was more work to make this video than it would have been to make a webpage with a guide on it. i really struggle to follow video tutorials so this is extremely annoying
Don't buy and don't try to change nothing. I treid and i f*cked my controller, because the main part, desen't remove easly. It was stucked, and forcing to remove it, something make contact with battery and circuit and battery now is fucked. Wasted 45 euros and over 120 euros joypad,
out of date instructions, garbage shell from a garbage company. Go figure The bottom shell does not just 'wiggle' off as shown. It takes a fair amount of force, and in doing so, you destroy the entire $200 product.
Ordered the Bottom Shell and also a new frontplate from extremeRate for my Elite Series 2 Controller because the rubber is coming of on both of them. So I can't wait to have an Elite Series 2 WITHOUT the faulty rubbering from Microsoft! Thank you extremeRate for offering these parts so I do not have to throw away my expensive controller!
Yup same for me, I'm sure most people get replacement shells because of this lol
@@katemc516same here 🤣
Same here
Yo anyone else find out they are actually allergic to the rubber the elite series 2 grips use??? This plastic swap saved my life!
Same here just put it on love it
ordered and delivered in 1 week, perfect tutorial , my new controller looks beautiful, thanks guys youre doing great work.
Great to hear!
Protip I found when replacing the shell on a 2nd controller... the free screwdrivers can be magnitised using the old magnets on the origional case :D save having to try and fiddle around putting those in
Great found! :D
The fucking PCB screws were the biggest test of patience and endurance I've ever had to undertake 🙃
These videos have an irritating way of making it look easy. Just removing the top and bottom plates could have been a tutorial video in itself. But I followed the instructions as closely as I could and I got there in the end. So now I have a nice new casing for my Elite controller that isn't bubbling and peeling off just a few weeks after its warranty expired. Thought I was going to have to buy a whole new one, so thanks. :)
theres no way im buying this shitty controller new, especially not for what it costs
This video was a huge help. 👏👏 Wouldn't have been able to replace the bottom shell without it! Thank you! Look forward to modding the next controller w/ Xtreme Rate mods! 💓💓 Those T4 screws were the hardest to remove and install. So small and hard to screw it.
I love this look, it looks really clean. I wouldn't have thought of a wood grain back panel, that's kinda dope!
Love it, seems like honestly better quality than the original housing so far
Thank you SO much! I did a full shell swap on my controller and didn't have an idea of where to start from!
Thank you for this guide, I've managed to change the back plate on my controller thanks to this. The rubber on the official back piece is ridiculous and peeled away so quickly
Excellent instructional video, thanks. One addition I would suggest, is the mention of the plastic rings on the front shell. Not all new shells come with them installed and i nearly missed them. Easy to remove.
Apologies if they are mentioned and i missed it.
Getting rid of that rubber grip is exactly what's needed. Changing the setup to the standard shell no rubber makes the elite 2 stronger.
Those screws are the most diabolical thing I have ever encountered in my life.
glad i found this, i had gotten a new shell, but after doing all the replacing, found that it didnt click into its station anymore, so came here to see what i missed, just had the magnets in the reverse spots
Outstanding detail. Helped me out in several places, thank you!
10:17 This part might be wrong.
On the left side, the blue line might need to be placed further back. When I placed it as in the video, the LT's behavior became unstable and I had a terrible experience. Attaching a paddle to the back makes the LT's behavior unstable, and removing the paddle makes it normal.
When I used the original bar magnet, it worked normally even with the paddle attached.
Yes I agree, it's probably best to reuse the stick magnets from the original controller, since the new ones provided seem to have the opposite markings, and also since the original ones are interchangeable anyway
Pro tip make sure the skinny magnets are not parralel to eachother. One magnet's line has to be towards to the battery and the other the opposite. This is so they magnetise properly
There's a chance the T4 screwdriver is too big couldn't take the paddle buttons out so now I ordered hopefully the correct size elsewhere
Same for me. Which size did fit for your controller?
do you have to put the magnets in if you do not use the charger??
Finally back shells to match the fronts !!!!!!
YES!
This just saved me 210€ I was going to spend on the wolverine v3 pro, although it is nice, the audio with headphones is horrible (too low). And I’m tired of the horrible quality of the elite series 2, after two elite controllers this together with a faceplate from extremerate finally seems like the best option
This guide is wonderful and thorough and exactly what I needed to replace a shell that my puppy chewed on. Prior to shell replacement all buttons and sticks worked 100%, all I needed was a shell to keep jagged plastic from digging in while gaming. Now after shell replacement the controller turns on but doesn't appear to connect wirelessly or wired. Any thoughts?
Was the controller turing on?
@@ExtremeRate Yes, I ended up tearing it apart and inspecting all wires and circuitry I could see and everything was intact and seemed connected. I put everything back together and tested with various devices. for some reason it took a moment but everything started recognizing again and connected like new! All is well, I have no idea what caused it or the solution
@@ChrisBrindley-yakker might've not seated the antenna connector(s) all the way
Works great just got finished
Super awesome guide, thanks !
My magnet bars didn't have lines on em...how can I tell which is the weak side without it??
Mine had lines but one up and one down 😅 I'm still putting my controller back together and I'll hazard a guess it doesn't matter too much. They will make the back sticks more secure, I'm guessing.
Great video! Thank you so much! 😊
Nice instructions, hope I can do it in the same amount of time lol
My elite series is in bad condition the rubber has started to warp and expand out and cause its a few years old I can't get it replaced I was about to buy a while new controller u till I seen this video ... I have now just saved £100 odd by buying a back panel and a front to go with it and it's coming on Wednesday imma follow this video exactly fingers crossed this fixes my controller 😅
I need this for the first elite controller pls
well i have a torx 4 screwdriver and i cant for the life of me fit it to remove those devils lol nothing fits, i bet a torx 1 wouldnt remove them still hahaha
Does by any chance the halo infinite version have different screws?
You need this in clear!
They provide several 'clear' shells, with a coloured tint to them
Yes Sir
Hi! Love the feel of the product. Only thing I’ve encountered is the controller only works when it’s plugged in for some reason. Any thoughts on where I went wrong?
Just ordered the blue flame back and shell cover, since my original are cracked. Seems like the plastic of the original was cheap plastic.
The plastic is thin because of the rubber grip that peels off. Once the rubber grip comes off the integrity of the controller is lost.
@@kronicracer I've noticed that when I took apart the control. I saw all the cracks inside on the back and face shells of the original. The rubber grip kept it together from completely cracking.
Followed everything, and now the middle triggers of the bottom no longre is working. GG. Haha. Followed everything as stated. Cannot see any damage on the PCB. Cover looks great, though.
Great tutorial and love the look. Unfortunately after doing it all now the controller doesn’t work. It turns on but doesn’t control the Xbox. It still charges on the charger stand. If you plug it in with usb c it turns on but doesn’t let you control the Xbox.
Not gonna refund or anything I’m sure it was my mistake. But if you can think of a way to fix it it’d be great !
Have you tried to re assemble the controller again? Maybe you missed something. The video is pretty straightforward and the main mother board and the xyab buttons shouldn't be affected from the back panel installation, unless you accidentally disconnected something.
Try also looking at some other videos explaining how to disassemble the controller and put it back together.
Hope you'll fix it.
Can someone explain how the magnets work and why they aren't sticking? Starting from 2:55. Also, what is the purpose? It doesn't make them sticky..
I'm having the same problem
same problem
Yeah honestly guys just put it in there and even though it's not sticky just assemble it carefully.
Very help fullllll video. Thanks i did this thanks to you. It took me more than 12 minutes lol hahahaha....🎉🎉🎉🎉
I’m good on doing all this on a controller that it’s gonna last about two months before it gets stick drift, bumper issues, etc
Why use blue scotch on magnents?.
Hi, I bought it and following your amazing tutorial step by step, everything perfect except for the magnets on the back of the controller, they wont stay glued to the back with your method. Any solutions?
Where do you get the stuff to stick the magnets to the controller?? Seems like you had the perfect size. Cant fund them things anywhere...
Hope you found an answer, but if not. I was lucky enough to still have the sticky in place when I removed my magnets. Also, the cover has plastic guides and you don't really need the sticky. If you're not that lucky, some good quality double sided sticky and a scalpel will do it.
It looks nice but no grips. I’m gonna get a replacement back for mine still though. My grips are peeling so bad
Do i take off the magnets from the old one to put on the new one bc there was no magnets is the package 2:52
Edge controller 4 paddles wen?
I asked them on messenger and they said some time around 2024 but didn't give a specific date
2024
The small adhesive pads don't seem to transfer enough adhesive to the circular magnets. When put into place the magnets just slide away from the shell. Is this normal? Can you use anything else?
make sure you peel off the adhesive backing, I found that pretty hard
I don't have those sticky pads they didn't come with my installations order what should i do?
Use silicone. I used clear silicone with a hot glue gun
I orders this out it together and my paddles are loose and my trigger stops don’t stay. Any advice?
I had the same problem and found out the cause.
10:17 It's due to the orientation of the magnet.
The bar magnet on the left should have the blue wire facing the battery.
Do you make a clear black bottom shell to match the faceplate?
How do you dismantle trigger locks?
can you power down controller to zero power or is turning it off regularly enough to start repair ?
After successfully following these instructions the controller turns off randomly. Is the battery not seated correctly? What else could it be? Thanks.
Classy. Lol love it.
Thank you!
Where can I get the magnets that hold the paddles?
In your old controller case? That's where mine are.
Need the Dualsense Edge version of this please!
Do you mean the wood grant?
The left paddles doesnt work anymore why is so?
Where i can buy thay doble side stickers for the magnets?
How can i remover the magnets?
Controller started disconnecting randomly while playing after installing your parts.
Bad quality and bad customer support.
The magnets I ordered came crumbled :/
Please contact our customer service retail(at)extremerate.com
Do you have this for the series 1??
🔥
Your right and left is mixed up dude.
The included scre driver is horrable
I just need the magnets...
We don't sell them alone...
@@ExtremeRate that may be worth considering in the future.
The produting clips is making my head hurt
En mi caso compre una por Aliexpress y venía sin la parte de los leds, si alguien ve esto cambienlos antes de cerrarlo jaja
why is it AI voice generated?
We have lots of video but we can't talk too much...
What an odd question. Maybe he/she don't want their voice or couldn't decide on who to use. Or maybe they are shy 😂
it was more work to make this video than it would have been to make a webpage with a guide on it. i really struggle to follow video tutorials so this is extremely annoying
Don't buy and don't try to change nothing. I treid and i f*cked my controller, because the main part, desen't remove easly. It was stucked, and forcing to remove it, something make contact with battery and circuit and battery now is fucked. Wasted 45 euros and over 120 euros joypad,
No bottom grips. No thanks
out of date instructions, garbage shell from a garbage company. Go figure
The bottom shell does not just 'wiggle' off as shown. It takes a fair amount of force, and in doing so, you destroy the entire $200 product.
The T4 screw driver I was given is too big for the back paddle boards… 🫠
Same issue...
Same happened to me, I had to use a T3 screwdriver 😅
Where can I buy the adhesive for the magnets?