I've been learning about the DR650 while I shop for a deal. The "algorithm" suggested your channel, and I'm extremely impressed! Your instruction, camera angles and lighting, and pacing is PERFECT. I've seen countless similar videos, and worked for/under many people over the decades, and YOU sir are a top notch instructor. I've subscribed, and look forward to whatever else your channel has in store. Keep up the great work.
When putting the cylinder onto the piston I use a piece of plywood with a slot cut in it for the piston to sit flat on and make a ring compressor out of either a strip of shim steel or thin sheet metal and a large hose clip. Once the rings go in you undo the hose clip and peel the sheet metal off. I do triumph and Norton twins this way for years.
When timing the cam, I always rotate the motor in the normal direction a few times to make sure everything is right and then I always turn the cam the opposite direction as I'm checking timing to take up all slack in the pulling side. 12.5 years as a Porsche tech.
I rode a Ducati Monster for 4 yrs and currently ride a Kawasaki Z900RS, which I've been riding for 3 yrs, and have ridden multiple other motorcycles. Still, my friends DR650 was one of the most fun bikes I've ridden. I should stop thinking about it and get one, 😂
Do it.... I just got mine less then a week ago and rode it home , took me 12 hrs on the stock seat.... Ouch . I rode it the next night to work and twisted my knee riding up a small hill in my front yard when I got home . I stalled it and fell over into the bushes...... Lol. It didn't even hurt when it happened but the next morning it was swollen and all clickety clackity..... Still can't wait to take it back out tho....😁👍. You only live once
Sweet walk through. I bought my dr new and put 3k miles on it so far. Weight reduction was a great mod asthmaticly and for performance. FMF pipe unbaffled with jet kit really woke it up. I was thinking of doing the 790 kit next but I feel the high compression piston with cam will suit me better. I'm thinking titanium intake valves and hollow stainless exhaust valves. I'd like more top end out of mine. If my mods got me 40rwhp I'm sure I can get 50+ with high compression/cam and head work. I build Lsx engines for a living. I'd love to do big bore high compression but I don't want to dump that much money in my dr. Thanks for the post
Honestly by far the hardest part of the whole project is putting the piston pin retaining clips in, they are no joke. If i were to do again i would find myself some pinch style ones, the cram lock ones supplied in the kit are very difficult to fit...though was a good time to crack a beer once they were in!
Holy cow you are not kidding, those cram locks were a pain. Lucky I had a tool that worked, I think if you have to tool for them they would go in much easier. I did thoroughly enjoy my beer afterwards..
I had a micro screw driver that the tip pulled on and just happened to be the right size. It's very similar to the tool they sell, made getting that in very easy.
Wish you would have put the old piston next to the new piston so I could see the difference in size.also a big stainless hose clamp works wonders for compressing the rings and slide the jug on.great video though.like the emphasis on USING ASSEMBLY LUBE.so many videos I watch never mention it.makes me wonder how many people watched those and built their motor dry.I cringe every time they don't mention assembly lube.i usually use white lithium grease but anything is better than nothing at all.
Very helpful, Thank You. Two things I did NOT see that I would recomend...A. Check the squish gap and adjust as needed AND B. If you install a new cam...it will require the proper assembly lube plus I'd use new hardened rocker arms.
Yes, because I was using the stock cam I didn't get into valve to piston clearance. But you are correct, definitely would want to check that with an aftermarket cam.
Awesome video! I would love to see a follow up and review. I have a DRZ 450 with Hot Cam and flat side carb. I’m in the process of refreshing it and have always wondered if the 650 would be a better choice since I’m not racing the DRZ any more. I like that it’s air cooled for the most part anyway. I have alway like the Honda 600/650’s for that reason plus growing up in the 70’s thos we’re the hot ticket in the NE. Thanks for the content, it’s first rate!!!
I'll try to get it back over for a follow up. Your 450 will feel faster but the DRZ is more comfortable for extended street use. I'm from the NE and grew up in the 70's so yeah I agree with the Hondas.
I found the only tricky parts to be removing the camshaft drive sprocket and getting the barrel over the new piston. Needed my neighbour to assist me. Everything is pretty easy if you follow the manual. Transforms the 650 into something exciting but kills fuel consumption. The TM40 return spring is too strong and you can get softer ones now.
You actually use a proper ring compressor, slide the piston in from the top all the way down until the wrist pin hole is exposed below the cylinder (but don’t slide the rings out!) and put the wrist pin and retainers in with the cylinder suspended on a couple deep sockets or chunks of 2x4 remove your spacing devices and slide the cylinder down. The way this guy is doing it is WRONG! Easy to damage a ring or piston doing it like this. 😅
Hahahaha great video and I share your excitement but, watching this in anticipation for getting my 1st Dr650 (and 1st dual sport ever) next week while sitting here helpless with a broken collarbone in the meantime... So when you said that it's "hard to do with a broken collarbone" (coinkydink) laughed my ass off because I feel your pain brother 😂 got clipped on my v4-cruiser by a jackass in a Subaru on his cellphone... Thanks for teaching me my first few things about tinkering with this lovely machine, bet she's gonna roar. 🤘hope you have more vids on here after the 790 swap
Around 50. This has a stock head and cam so more can be gained. Based on some dyno charts I found on line this set up should bring 50hp or just under that.
It would have been nice to hear it start up and run, if you can put a future clip in there depending on when posted and such. I'm looking for the continuation now.... Bless.
@@TepcoCycleRepair any big changes in power, performance and such? I think of added stress on con rod and gears, wondering if they're designed to handle it. I wish it was easier to change timing chain and con rod, bearing, and such so they could be thrown in one time...
@@rudolphmurphy1847 I didn't have enough ride time on it before or after to give an honest answer to that. But when I rode it afterwards I thought it would be more powerful. I think to get true gains from this kit, you need to do a larger cam, and I think there is a big valve head as well. Someone else addressed it in the comments. Personally, when I find a DR, I'm going to keep the engine stock, for some spirited dual sporting I think it's plenty. When I want to go fast I ride my YZ450f dual sport but that's a very different beast!
@@TepcoCycleRepair I thought it would show a change just on startup, sound, response, etc. I have one with carb mods only and it's a pleasure to ride but I haven't ridden many bikes and don't have much feel for what exists, like you speak of your bike. I would like to test ride many bikes and find my ultimate, but I can't complain with what I have... Thanks.
I am seriously thinking of purchasing a good used DR650 with the 780 ProCycle kit - wondering how you like your 790 - if you think it is as reliable as the stock 650? Also do know the difference is between the 780 and the 790 ? Thanks for your thoughts.
It's a friend of mine, he loves it. The most reliable is usually stock. This set up alone should be fine but the more you push the bottom end with more power you risk it. I did ride it before and after and personally I would have left the engine and just did the suspension.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I'm puzzled how little content their is on youtube regarding the DR790....yet to find one side by side comparison or in depth review...
A lot of people recommend the motorman break in method. Basically ride it relatively hard no steady throttle but no redline, change oil after about 30 miles. If an engine is built right you just ride it, the key is to get the rings cut in and it takes engine load to do that.
@@madbroindustries I have another friend that did this same thing and has gobbs of hours and hard trail miles, I mean hard with limited maintenance and it's still fine.
@@madbroindustries I heard ProCycle say that if any adjustment is required, it would only be to slightly lean it out due to the higher “suck” from the piston drawing up more fuel than normal…though mostly no adjusts needed.
@@TepcoCycleRepair a lot of oil in the combustion chamber looking at the top of the stock piston anyway.if they have that much oil on top of the piston in 150 miles I don't think I want one.imagine what it'll look like in 1500 miles.like a half quart would be in there.
@@billbonu1639 ? Not sure you're seeing the same engine I'm seeing. The oil on the top of the piston was on the new piston for install. No oil sitting on top of the old piston I removed at 1500 miles, all looked normal.
Thanks for sharing that - the big bore kit has been on my wish list for a while, so this will help when I pull the trigger on it. I see you kept the stock head and valves. I know Pro Cycle has the larger valve head available, too. I’d expect that to give better top end power, perhaps at the expense of low end torque. Why did you stick with the stock head, if you don’t mind my asking?
Sure, It is not my bike. I installed what he wanted. As far as the big valves and cam, they will also help, just be sure you check valve, piston clearances which you don't need to do with the stock head. I think it really comes down to how much you want to spend and what you need for the style of riding you do.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thanks also any tips for oil rings? We get the piston on but cant seem to get the final oil rings and rails in? Any tips or why ? Thanks
@@clarebaybutt2473 Hmm, not sure. Just make sure you put the center ring in first and don't over lap it. Then the upper and lower scrappers should just go on. Make sure you gap all the rings like I did, they were crazy oversized.
@@TepcoCycleRepair you have to gap the bottom oil rings and rails? I can get the firt two rings in the cylinder but the bottom ones the wavey oil ring just finding that hard. Is it because they need gapping or patience
@@clarebaybutt2473 Just patience, I think the oil scraper rings where the only ones I didn't have to gap. Make sure you use a feeler gauge to check all your gaps before you put it together, to tight and it will seize.
I had to get it back to the customer and couldn't fit in a filming ride session. I also didn't want to hammer on it yet. I'll have it back again and make a video then.
I've been learning about the DR650 while I shop for a deal. The "algorithm" suggested your channel, and I'm extremely impressed! Your instruction, camera angles and lighting, and pacing is PERFECT. I've seen countless similar videos, and worked for/under many people over the decades, and YOU sir are a top notch instructor. I've subscribed, and look forward to whatever else your channel has in store. Keep up the great work.
Thank you for the comment, lots more content to come!
I feel the spirit of the DR-BIG 800 is with us !
When putting the cylinder onto the piston I use a piece of plywood with a slot cut in it for the piston to sit flat on and make a ring compressor out of either a strip of shim steel or thin sheet metal and a large hose clip. Once the rings go in you undo the hose clip and peel the sheet metal off. I do triumph and Norton twins this way for years.
When timing the cam, I always rotate the motor in the normal direction a few times to make sure everything is right and then I always turn the cam the opposite direction as I'm checking timing to take up all slack in the pulling side.
12.5 years as a Porsche tech.
As a DR650 owner. I thoroughly enjoyed watching this beginning to end! Thank you for this extremely informative video!
Stay tuned, the owner put all new plastics on it, racks and a few other things. I'll try to take it out for a ride.
I rode a Ducati Monster for 4 yrs and currently ride a Kawasaki Z900RS, which I've been riding for 3 yrs, and have ridden multiple other motorcycles. Still, my friends DR650 was one of the most fun bikes I've ridden. I should stop thinking about it and get one, 😂
@@old_dan Might as well..lol..it's crazy out of all the bikes I've ridden it seems sometimes the less "popular" bikes are the most fun.
Do it.... I just got mine less then a week ago and rode it home , took me 12 hrs on the stock seat.... Ouch .
I rode it the next night to work and twisted my knee riding up a small hill in my front yard when I got home . I stalled it and fell over into the bushes...... Lol. It didn't even hurt when it happened but the next morning it was swollen and all clickety clackity.....
Still can't wait to take it back out tho....😁👍.
You only live once
@@GrumbleB Oof, boy that stock seat is the most uncomfortable seat ever. I can't imagine doing 12 hrs like that.
Sweet walk through. I bought my dr new and put 3k miles on it so far. Weight reduction was a great mod asthmaticly and for performance. FMF pipe unbaffled with jet kit really woke it up. I was thinking of doing the 790 kit next but I feel the high compression piston with cam will suit me better. I'm thinking titanium intake valves and hollow stainless exhaust valves. I'd like more top end out of mine. If my mods got me 40rwhp I'm sure I can get 50+ with high compression/cam and head work. I build Lsx engines for a living. I'd love to do big bore high compression but I don't want to dump that much money in my dr. Thanks for the post
Honestly by far the hardest part of the whole project is putting the piston pin retaining clips in, they are no joke. If i were to do again i would find myself some pinch style ones, the cram lock ones supplied in the kit are very difficult to fit...though was a good time to crack a beer once they were in!
Holy cow you are not kidding, those cram locks were a pain. Lucky I had a tool that worked, I think if you have to tool for them they would go in much easier. I did thoroughly enjoy my beer afterwards..
I had a micro screw driver that the tip pulled on and just happened to be the right size. It's very similar to the tool they sell, made getting that in very easy.
Wish you would have put the old piston next to the new piston so I could see the difference in size.also a big stainless hose clamp works wonders for compressing the rings and slide the jug on.great video though.like the emphasis on USING ASSEMBLY LUBE.so many videos I watch never mention it.makes me wonder how many people watched those and built their motor dry.I cringe every time they don't mention assembly lube.i usually use white lithium grease but anything is better than nothing at all.
Very helpful, Thank You. Two things I did NOT see that I would recomend...A. Check the squish gap and adjust as needed AND B. If you install a new cam...it will require the proper assembly lube plus I'd use new hardened rocker arms.
Yes, because I was using the stock cam I didn't get into valve to piston clearance. But you are correct, definitely would want to check that with an aftermarket cam.
Awesome video! I would love to see a follow up and review. I have a DRZ 450 with Hot Cam and flat side carb. I’m in the process of refreshing it and have always wondered if the 650 would be a better choice since I’m not racing the DRZ any more. I like that it’s air cooled for the most part anyway. I have alway like the Honda 600/650’s for that reason plus growing up in the 70’s thos we’re the hot ticket in the NE. Thanks for the content, it’s first rate!!!
I'll try to get it back over for a follow up. Your 450 will feel faster but the DRZ is more comfortable for extended street use. I'm from the NE and grew up in the 70's so yeah I agree with the Hondas.
I found the only tricky parts to be removing the camshaft drive sprocket and getting the barrel over the new piston. Needed my neighbour to assist me. Everything is pretty easy if you follow the manual. Transforms the 650 into something exciting but kills fuel consumption. The TM40 return spring is too strong and you can get softer ones now.
You actually use a proper ring compressor, slide the piston in from the top all the way down until the wrist pin hole is exposed below the cylinder (but don’t slide the rings out!) and put the wrist pin and retainers in with the cylinder suspended on a couple deep sockets or chunks of 2x4 remove your spacing devices and slide the cylinder down. The way this guy is doing it is WRONG! Easy to damage a ring or piston doing it like this. 😅
is there a part 2 it's a wonderful video very educational I have learn allot thanks very much for making such a wonderful video
th-cam.com/play/PLACcoDI9siRXy9J1PpR91QWMI56E5d37P.html&si=hIrHy9rmVW711OEj
I made some other videos on that bike. Next time I service it I'll do a ride video.
Como é bom ter ferramentas!
Thanks, I enjoyed that. Good job, God bless.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. This is a project I'm thinking of doing next winter. You make it look straightforward. Cheers.
do they sell kits to replace the cross tip bolts for hex bolts?
A Master at work.
Hahahaha great video and I share your excitement but, watching this in anticipation for getting my 1st Dr650 (and 1st dual sport ever) next week while sitting here helpless with a broken collarbone in the meantime... So when you said that it's "hard to do with a broken collarbone" (coinkydink) laughed my ass off because I feel your pain brother 😂 got clipped on my v4-cruiser by a jackass in a Subaru on his cellphone... Thanks for teaching me my first few things about tinkering with this lovely machine, bet she's gonna roar. 🤘hope you have more vids on here after the 790 swap
Votre vidéo est vraiment très bien faites. Merci pour ça.
Merci pour le commentaire
Excellent easy step video. Most people should be able to give this a go in their shed. What sort of horsepower numbers are expected once complete?
Around 50. This has a stock head and cam so more can be gained. Based on some dyno charts I found on line this set up should bring 50hp or just under that.
Can I do this on my DR 600?
cant wait to ride that bike
Very good; thank you.
It would have been nice to hear it start up and run, if you can put a future clip in there depending on when posted and such. I'm looking for the continuation now.... Bless.
Man, I just rode this bike the other day and didn't take any videos. I'll try to get it back here and take some ride videos.
@@TepcoCycleRepair any big changes in power, performance and such? I think of added stress on con rod and gears, wondering if they're designed to handle it. I wish it was easier to change timing chain and con rod, bearing, and such so they could be thrown in one time...
@@rudolphmurphy1847 I didn't have enough ride time on it before or after to give an honest answer to that. But when I rode it afterwards I thought it would be more powerful. I think to get true gains from this kit, you need to do a larger cam, and I think there is a big valve head as well. Someone else addressed it in the comments. Personally, when I find a DR, I'm going to keep the engine stock, for some spirited dual sporting I think it's plenty. When I want to go fast I ride my YZ450f dual sport but that's a very different beast!
@@TepcoCycleRepair I thought it would show a change just on startup, sound, response, etc. I have one with carb mods only and it's a pleasure to ride but I haven't ridden many bikes and don't have much feel for what exists, like you speak of your bike. I would like to test ride many bikes and find my ultimate, but I can't complain with what I have... Thanks.
I am seriously thinking of purchasing a good used DR650 with the 780 ProCycle kit - wondering how you like your 790 - if you think it is as reliable as the stock 650? Also do know the difference is between the 780 and the 790 ? Thanks for your thoughts.
It's a friend of mine, he loves it. The most reliable is usually stock. This set up alone should be fine but the more you push the bottom end with more power you risk it. I did ride it before and after and personally I would have left the engine and just did the suspension.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thanks for your thoughts !
Any follow up on this bike? :)
I haven't heard anything from the owner so I assume it's still running strong.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I'm puzzled how little content their is on youtube regarding the DR790....yet to find one side by side comparison or in depth review...
Does this kit run a similar compression ratio to the stock cylinder? Would be nice to keep it low.
Pro Cycle has great after market parts for the DR 650.
Absolutely, it's great having a company dedicated to building some of these bikes.
Whats break-in like after one of these kits is installed?
A lot of people recommend the motorman break in method. Basically ride it relatively hard no steady throttle but no redline, change oil after about 30 miles. If an engine is built right you just ride it, the key is to get the rings cut in and it takes engine load to do that.
Great job man 👍 thank you a lot 🙂🙂🙂
🤘🏻 PERFECT VIDEO BRØ🤘🏾
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Just about to put the cylinder on my 790. Just wondering if you used the stock ring clocking out of the manual or if you just placed them 180° apart
Ring placement is straight out of the manual.
The only thing my DR is missing is the 790 kit....the temptation is real!
Go for it, it was an easy build!!
@@TepcoCycleRepair the thing im worried about is if its reliable. As in if the engine will last.
@@madbroindustries I have another friend that did this same thing and has gobbs of hours and hard trail miles, I mean hard with limited maintenance and it's still fine.
@@TepcoCycleRepair did you have to adjust the carbs?
@@madbroindustries I heard ProCycle say that if any adjustment is required, it would only be to slightly lean it out due to the higher “suck” from the piston drawing up more fuel than normal…though mostly no adjusts needed.
Where is the link to the next video after this?
th-cam.com/video/62IlEHnN8uM/w-d-xo.html
How’s The 790 build coming along? Interested in the finished project.. Great clip btw 👍
Great, moved on to the owner, he loves it.
So how much did it cost for all the mods and upgrades? How many labour hours?
The owner supplied the mods, (all from ProCycle) if you want to look at costs. Labor was really just a top end.
Interesting, I'm working on a xr650L to xr806L.
Nice!
How many miles is on that bike? looks like the oil rings were shot.
Nah, it only had around 1500 miles when I did this big bore, it only has 1700 on it now.
@@TepcoCycleRepair a lot of oil in the combustion chamber looking at the top of the stock piston anyway.if they have that much oil on top of the piston in 150 miles I don't think I want one.imagine what it'll look like in 1500 miles.like a half quart would be in there.
@@billbonu1639 ? Not sure you're seeing the same engine I'm seeing. The oil on the top of the piston was on the new piston for install. No oil sitting on top of the old piston I removed at 1500 miles, all looked normal.
Thanks for sharing that - the big bore kit has been on my wish list for a while, so this will help when I pull the trigger on it. I see you kept the stock head and valves. I know Pro Cycle has the larger valve head available, too. I’d expect that to give better top end power, perhaps at the expense of low end torque. Why did you stick with the stock head, if you don’t mind my asking?
Sure, It is not my bike. I installed what he wanted. As far as the big valves and cam, they will also help, just be sure you check valve, piston clearances which you don't need to do with the stock head. I think it really comes down to how much you want to spend and what you need for the style of riding you do.
I need that rachett tool! What's that called?
Here is a link, it's awesome a huge time saver. If mine ever broke I would stop everything and grab another!
amzn.to/3CrhOvU
Is this procycle piston non-directional?
Correct, this one is non directional.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thanks also any tips for oil rings? We get the piston on but cant seem to get the final oil rings and rails in? Any tips or why ? Thanks
@@clarebaybutt2473 Hmm, not sure. Just make sure you put the center ring in first and don't over lap it. Then the upper and lower scrappers should just go on. Make sure you gap all the rings like I did, they were crazy oversized.
@@TepcoCycleRepair you have to gap the bottom oil rings and rails? I can get the firt two rings in the cylinder but the bottom ones the wavey oil ring just finding that hard. Is it because they need gapping or patience
@@clarebaybutt2473 Just patience, I think the oil scraper rings where the only ones I didn't have to gap. Make sure you use a feeler gauge to check all your gaps before you put it together, to tight and it will seize.
I'm new to this channel, what year is this 650? I'm needing a ton of knowledge..
I believe it was a 96.
They're all the same
DR800 DR BIG has entered the chat ! ;) browahahaha
Now all i need is your address… Surly you won’t mind 1 more DR to work on! 😂
Just buy a bigger bike.
Did enjoy video.
I dump muh bushpig 4 the 5th time putting it on jack stands. 5 dumps in first month........
A different kind of DR Big.
u r are insane
Why didn't you ride this thing and show us what it can do ?
I had to get it back to the customer and couldn't fit in a filming ride session. I also didn't want to hammer on it yet. I'll have it back again and make a video then.
god theres like 9,000 things that can go wrong doing this.
Maybe but it's really not that bad, take your time and you can do it.
790 too over square, stop
790??? Its too much worm for this engine 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
It's perfect!