Quite positive that the same build house for the wa2k is the source for these as well which is nice. The 5k and 7.5k are the 2 I was looking at branding. Dependable amps. I seen his dyno, very nice young man. Excellent dyno and review. Thank you for sharing
Nice vid , I know that this has nothing to do with this video, but I installed that CT-80.4AB that I was telling you about in my grandsons car to 4 JBL 6"×9"s. That little amp is a beast, and the sound is amazing. I was very impressed, to say the least . Great little amp . Thanks for what you do . Keep up the good work . BTW , I was so impressed that I ordered 2 more for my personal build that I'm currently working on .
Hey, that’s awesome! I bet that does sound really good! I bet he’s happy too. I had a pair of JBL 6x9s on a Coustic 160 back in 1994, and they sounded great. This was in a 1988 Beretta. Thanks for sharing!
Can we get a sneak peak of the inside ? I know a guy with a heat gun, sharp clean razor blade and steady hand who can slice right under that tamper sticker and be in and out of there like no one was ever home 😉
Thank you for your videos. They are very helpful, plus you sound a lil like Lucas Black, which is pretty cool; Tokyo Drift, not Sling Blade. Lol. You can hear your enthusiasm, & that’s nice in an informative video. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
Man, what a cool comment! Thank you! It turns out that me and Lucas Black are both from North Alabama, neighboring counties actually. Good catch, lol. I really do appreciate the appreciation and encouragement!
@@stereomojo I fried 2 Orion xtr 12s in the first 2min, smoked em & they turned crispier than burnt chicken that got forgot & left on a grill. Had the amp running parallel @ 1ohm. Didn’t even have it up. Had all dials halfway & the remote amp control lower than that. 🤣🤣😅🙂↕️🤷🏽♂️ This amp def pushes some power, lol. Guess I’m gonna look for new subs, again. Hopefully get more than 2mins out the next one. Had the whole car shaking, tools falling off the walls in the garage, & then I smelled the smoke. 🤣🤣🤷🏽♂️🤪
Only to reinforce what Joe had said about not running this and other amps like it on stock electrical systems...Had a customer call me up last night, they were having issues with a 2008 Infiniti FX35 that would illuminate every light on the instrument cluster and there was no response from the accelerator, but only when the A/C was turned on. Long story short and $500ish later, the SKAR RP-2000.1 in the rear hatch had consumed the stock 2 month old 110 amp alternator after repeated hard pulls on the system. The A/C system commands the 40-50amp cooling fans on at the same time regardless of what track you're playing, yikes! Lol. Gave the young man several options to avoid that problem in the future, but he learned a very valuable lesson the expensive way, the same lesson Joe just gave away for free. More free education for the win! Thanks brother🦾🧠
Wow, that’s crazy! Thanks Dustin! He got super lucky to find a fellow basshead to help him with it. I used to be one of those guys that thought all you need is a big ol’ amp if you want big power.
I didn't know much about Gravity till the video. I didn't want to like the amp. But after seeing dual fans, yeah got my interest. Every amp should have at least 1. 1 quiet fan. Especially with so many people installing their amps in their trunks. That's why I like station wagons, they give you a much larger and better laid out interior for installing an aftermarket system than a 4 door. Wagons do seem to leave out a little padding compared to 4 doors, and I would just add a little of that, and you'll have a great platform for your stereo!
Everybody should get a line output converter and boost the signal to the amp. You should want 5 - 7 volts. Most head units are only 1 - 3 volt Preamps. Recoil and Kicker are the two brands that I only know that work. All the others distort your signal. And you defeat what you are trying to do. Get a clean strong signal to your amp. It won't work as hard and stay cooler as well as just sound better!. Best $25 you'll spend for your system!
I've use the LCI1 line converter and it's bad ass puts out up to 9v which is adjustable and has a built in clip light coat me 40 on Amazon works amazing never had an issue with it at all
Saw this exact amp released with this name, they're calling it Zeroflex TKO monoblock. however this is a better deal. The price they are asking is much more.
Nice amplifier but im loving my halfbridge amps but if your broke and dont wire under ohms and always play your subwoofers up all the way to clipping than it's a very nice amplifier.
Full bridge amps make that big power with the type of coils they use but the lack of capacitors is why they never make that good dynamic overhead like the Korean half bridge amps.
Stereo mojo the reason u have signal on the amp with no input signal is some class d amps have to have a load wired up to them or the output section can "run wild" and get very hot just idling.and display some output voltage.
@@joshholden8561yep, that's typical with most Brazilian full bridge amplifiers. I have over 3 dozen samples from 3 build houses, and almost all will do this at idle, with no load. It's mainly the SounDigital clones overall.
What would you estimate the average small car that is a 4 cylinder the electrical system can handle? I mean the sub power wattage and while using a 4 channel amp too. 800? 1000? Just for the bass amp
@@c0uchsl0uch I’m sure that 800 would give you more output and be louder, but you wouldn’t be leaving much on the table for the other amp. You might would also start dealing with a little bit of headlight dimming, especially if your car has a 100a or less alternator.
Thats a good amp same board as sundown, sound digital slapz, many many others not a bad design dont wire it wrong or too low and it will be fine if u give it power to make power.
@@Zachecker yes correct there's actually 3 making all the full bridge clones then China is chopping the quality to make more money and that's where we are losing quality control.
Hey mojo I wanted to just pass this little bit of info along on your clamp meter. Is a big misconception that O.L. stands for overload. But it's actually not the case it actually stands for out of limits.
BOSS companies are BOSS itself , SSL, and Planet Audio . I wouldn't purchase anything they branded after watching vids on all of them . If this is something new from BOSS , I haven't heard of it , nor would I touch it 😉
@@dirt_ripper8734no it's not the manufacturer with all those brands IASCA basically like saying ur amp is cea rated which means nothing IASCA is not a manufacturer it's like saying u this brand belongs to a club along with all the other brands named
I notice that the distortion light is flickering without any signal which tells me the output is not clean there's dirty noise when amp is at idle which can and will damage your subwoofers
Yeah, really knowledgeable kid. For somebody who doesn't know what they're talking about. He thinks there's a difference between 500°. Black opoxy and clear 500° apoxy other than the color.
I never said there was a difference. lol. I said Black epoxy is more common on high output subwoofers than clear epoxy. im not too sure why it would matter if its a 500 degree coil.
@@Zachecker Bro, go back to your h yanka unboxing. You pointed out, it had a black voice coil. You said it has black High temperature voice coil.I pointed out black or clear.They are all rated at 500°.It does not matter.You then Said black Voice Coil. were better because they had higher temperatue black apoxy Told me to go read and look it up.,, And furthermore, if you don't know the differences are between a 6 Spoke frame, a 12 spoke frame and TI frame Then perhaps you shouldn't be giving people advice on what a good Price and Subwoofer is , There is enough misinformation out There without some new TH-cam adding to it. If you're going to do demonstrations unboxings and give advice, you should do some real research instead of what I just got free in the mail For being a yes man.
Im a reliability freak. I’m sorry. I wouldn’t install that amp in my car if it were given to me. Brazilian full bridge amps are the pinnacle of unreliability. I’d rather spend 5x the money on something with half the output in the name of buying it once. I know this is gonna piss off a lot of my fellow bassheads but just type in amp repair in the search and watch how many videos are on Brazilian full bridge design amps. It’s most of them. Proof is in the pudding. Let the hating begin 👊🏽
My take here with full bridges is that they've become SUPER affordable for the amount of power. And with now how easy it is to order one and people who aren't TRULY experienced in car audio abusing them with not running proper electrical, get fried. I'm not saying half bridges aren't more resilient to abuse, doesn't even have to be Korean built. It takes power to make power, and it doesn't matter the amplifier design, those who are new to car audio that jump into full bridges because of the cheap power unfortunately are the ones who come to a loss from this.
Quite positive that the same build house for the wa2k is the source for these as well which is nice. The 5k and 7.5k are the 2 I was looking at branding. Dependable amps.
I seen his dyno, very nice young man.
Excellent dyno and review. Thank you for sharing
It could be, but I’m not sure. Yeah, he’s a nice guy. Thanks UN!
@@stereomojo yes sir, thank you for sharing it
Nice vid , I know that this has nothing to do with this video, but I installed that CT-80.4AB that I was telling you about in my grandsons car to 4 JBL 6"×9"s. That little amp is a beast, and the sound is amazing. I was very impressed, to say the least . Great little amp . Thanks for what you do . Keep up the good work . BTW , I was so impressed that I ordered 2 more for my personal build that I'm currently working on .
Hey, that’s awesome! I bet that does sound really good! I bet he’s happy too. I had a pair of JBL 6x9s on a Coustic 160 back in 1994, and they sounded great. This was in a 1988 Beretta. Thanks for sharing!
@@stereomojo his is a 2002 Honda accord. They rock that little car 😂
Great video! That amp is crazy in my car 😂
Thanks Zac!
Can we get a sneak peak of the inside ? I know a guy with a heat gun, sharp clean razor blade and steady hand who can slice right under that tamper sticker and be in and out of there like no one was ever home 😉
@@onesikm3 😦
Thank you for your videos. They are very helpful, plus you sound a lil like Lucas Black, which is pretty cool; Tokyo Drift, not Sling Blade. Lol. You can hear your enthusiasm, & that’s nice in an informative video. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
Man, what a cool comment! Thank you! It turns out that me and Lucas Black are both from North Alabama, neighboring counties actually. Good catch, lol. I really do appreciate the appreciation and encouragement!
@@stereomojo I fried 2 Orion xtr 12s in the first 2min, smoked em & they turned crispier than burnt chicken that got forgot & left on a grill. Had the amp running parallel @ 1ohm. Didn’t even have it up. Had all dials halfway & the remote amp control lower than that. 🤣🤣😅🙂↕️🤷🏽♂️ This amp def pushes some power, lol. Guess I’m gonna look for new subs, again. Hopefully get more than 2mins out the next one. Had the whole car shaking, tools falling off the walls in the garage, & then I smelled the smoke. 🤣🤣🤷🏽♂️🤪
Great video 🫡. The best amp you can have is the one you can afford and actually hook it up 😂
Only to reinforce what Joe had said about not running this and other amps like it on stock electrical systems...Had a customer call me up last night, they were having issues with a 2008 Infiniti FX35 that would illuminate every light on the instrument cluster and there was no response from the accelerator, but only when the A/C was turned on. Long story short and $500ish later, the SKAR RP-2000.1 in the rear hatch had consumed the stock 2 month old 110 amp alternator after repeated hard pulls on the system. The A/C system commands the 40-50amp cooling fans on at the same time regardless of what track you're playing, yikes! Lol. Gave the young man several options to avoid that problem in the future, but he learned a very valuable lesson the expensive way, the same lesson Joe just gave away for free. More free education for the win! Thanks brother🦾🧠
Wow, that’s crazy! Thanks Dustin! He got super lucky to find a fellow basshead to help him with it. I used to be one of those guys that thought all you need is a big ol’ amp if you want big power.
@@stereomojo They found a fellow basshead who also just happens to be a master automotive diagnostician who has business hours till 1am.😁🤣
@@DustmanDiagnostics2 Ha!!!!
I didn't know much about Gravity till the video. I didn't want to like the amp. But after seeing dual fans, yeah got my interest. Every amp should have at least 1. 1 quiet fan. Especially with so many people installing their amps in their trunks. That's why I like station wagons, they give you a much larger and better laid out interior for installing an aftermarket system than a 4 door. Wagons do seem to leave out a little padding compared to 4 doors, and I would just add a little of that, and you'll have a great platform for your stereo!
I'd say it performed close enough to the ratings. It's well within the tolerances. I give it a pass. 👍
I agree
Everybody should get a line output converter and boost the signal to the amp. You should want 5 - 7 volts. Most head units are only 1 - 3 volt Preamps. Recoil and Kicker are the two brands that I only know that work. All the others distort your signal. And you defeat what you are trying to do. Get a clean strong signal to your amp. It won't work as hard and stay cooler as well as just sound better!. Best $25 you'll spend for your system!
I've use the LCI1 line converter and it's bad ass puts out up to 9v which is adjustable and has a built in clip light coat me 40 on Amazon works amazing never had an issue with it at all
Nice I like it. It's a very good amplifier for the price but I love my Audio Legion AL1600.1D amplifiers so I like halfbridge amps better.
Saw this exact amp released with this name, they're calling it Zeroflex TKO monoblock. however this is a better deal. The price they are asking is much more.
Oh wow, I haven’t seen it with the other branding. Thanks!
Wait, Zeroflex audio from New Zealand???
Nice amplifier but im loving my halfbridge amps but if your broke and dont wire under ohms and always play your subwoofers up all the way to clipping than it's a very nice amplifier.
What battery you have setup? For the video
160ah of yinlong LTO and a 100a power supply
Full bridge amps make that big power with the type of coils they use but the lack of capacitors is why they never make that good dynamic overhead like the Korean half bridge amps.
Which skars are those? Sdr vxf zvx?
@@MAD450r2 SDR
Stereo mojo the reason u have signal on the amp with no input signal is some class d amps have to have a load wired up to them or the output section can "run wild" and get very hot just idling.and display some output voltage.
Ok, thanks Josh!
@@stereomojo No problem cool video
@@joshholden8561yep, that's typical with most Brazilian full bridge amplifiers. I have over 3 dozen samples from 3 build houses, and almost all will do this at idle, with no load. It's mainly the SounDigital clones overall.
Isn't it normal for a D class mono not to do well at 4 ohms?
What would you estimate the average small car that is a 4 cylinder the electrical system can handle?
I mean the sub power wattage and while using a 4 channel amp too.
800? 1000? Just for the bass amp
Gosh, I’d probably stay around 500w RMS. You can still get pretty loud with 500 though, on a couple of entry level subs.
@@stereomojo thanks, going from a kicker cxa400.1 TO a kicker cxa800.1 would gain no benefits?
Sub is sundown E10 rated at 500 watts at 1 ohm
@@c0uchsl0uch I’m sure that 800 would give you more output and be louder, but you wouldn’t be leaving much on the table for the other amp. You might would also start dealing with a little bit of headlight dimming, especially if your car has a 100a or less alternator.
@@stereomojo thanks, I'll check into this
@@c0uchsl0uch no problem. A “big 3” and a good AGM battery would help, especially if you go with the 800
Do the new audio pipe 8000 watts compared to the turamps 8k bass
That would be cool! Thanks for the suggestion!
Thats a good amp same board as sundown, sound digital slapz, many many others not a bad design dont wire it wrong or too low and it will be fine if u give it power to make power.
Im fairly certain it all comes from the same factory in china
@@Zachecker yes correct there's actually 3 making all the full bridge clones then China is chopping the quality to make more money and that's where we are losing quality control.
It did 4955 @ 13.3 I think when more battery power it would have did rated power
Yeah, I feel like it would’ve
It's great to see all these companies coming out and keeping the prices low
Clamping two wires like that could cause issues with reading like the overload you had.
It’s very possible
Thats still a win imo.plwer is so easy to get these days if u have the electrical.i come from the $1/watt era in 1989 lol
I agree
What model skars subs was that
SDR
OK
Reminds me of the sundown sfb series.
They’re similar
Hey mojo I wanted to just pass this little bit of info along on your clamp meter. Is a big misconception that O.L. stands for overload. But it's actually not the case it actually stands for out of limits.
Ok, cool. Thanks!
Im fairly sure warzone is a boss company. The amps are good, and make clean power. The red warzone subs pound too. Budget power!
BOSS companies are BOSS itself , SSL, and Planet Audio . I wouldn't purchase anything they branded after watching vids on all of them . If this is something new from BOSS , I haven't heard of it , nor would I touch it 😉
@@dirt_ripper8734no it's not the manufacturer with all those brands IASCA basically like saying ur amp is cea rated which means nothing IASCA is not a manufacturer it's like saying u this brand belongs to a club along with all the other brands named
This amp looks like the sundown sfb5000
It could be, but idk
I would put 1 per NSv5 😁
I notice that the distortion light is flickering without any signal which tells me the output is not clean there's dirty noise when amp is at idle which can and will damage your subwoofers
Yes, I don’t see that very often, but this amp did it for sure.
Thats a lot of distortion, even at idle.
Amp is short about 2 watts and 4 pennies...... but this guy is like, "Oh NO! This amp done lied, it didn't make it's claimed rating!" Hahaha.
lol, that’s funny!
Looks gimmicky. Nice violent name, fans etc. Prolly good to bring the noise, fit a budget.
Guys who like music may invest a little more in an amp tho.
Yeah, really knowledgeable kid. For somebody who doesn't know what they're talking about. He thinks there's a difference between 500°. Black opoxy and clear 500° apoxy other than the color.
I never said there was a difference. lol. I said Black epoxy is more common on high output subwoofers than clear epoxy. im not too sure why it would matter if its a 500 degree coil.
@@Zachecker Bro, go back to your h yanka unboxing. You pointed out, it had a black voice coil. You said it has black High temperature voice coil.I pointed out black or clear.They are all rated at 500°.It does not matter.You then Said black Voice Coil. were better because they had higher temperatue black apoxy Told me to go read and look it up.,, And furthermore, if you don't know the differences are between a 6 Spoke frame, a 12 spoke frame and TI frame Then perhaps you shouldn't be giving people advice on what a good Price and Subwoofer is , There is enough misinformation out There without some new TH-cam adding to it. If you're going to do demonstrations unboxings and give advice, you should do some real research instead of what I just got free in the mail For being a yes man.
looks like a sfb....jus sayin
Looks like a slapz audio actually.
@@No-handleneeded1 nice lets keep the comments going for this man! how about its the footprint as the sfb and the DB aab line up.
@@No-handleneeded1 im fairly certain these amps all come from the same factory in china just re branded
Im a reliability freak. I’m sorry. I wouldn’t install that amp in my car if it were given to me. Brazilian full bridge amps are the pinnacle of unreliability. I’d rather spend 5x the money on something with half the output in the name of buying it once. I know this is gonna piss off a lot of my fellow bassheads but just type in amp repair in the search and watch how many videos are on Brazilian full bridge design amps. It’s most of them. Proof is in the pudding. Let the hating begin 👊🏽
Agreed, that's why I buy Korean
Too bad for you 😅No worries more For us to buy and enjoy going on 6yrs with my Brazilian amps
Make sure you check out next week’s video! I recorded it yesterday.
My take here with full bridges is that they've become SUPER affordable for the amount of power. And with now how easy it is to order one and people who aren't TRULY experienced in car audio abusing them with not running proper electrical, get fried. I'm not saying half bridges aren't more resilient to abuse, doesn't even have to be Korean built. It takes power to make power, and it doesn't matter the amplifier design, those who are new to car audio that jump into full bridges because of the cheap power unfortunately are the ones who come to a loss from this.
@stereomojo looking forward to it