This was a fantastic video. It pulled me out of the dark on my furnace and now have a much better maintenance understanding. You've done a lot of people a great service with this.
This is a pretty intensive maintenance routine because when I get a tech guy come over to do it, it doesn’t look like he does all this and charges me $275 dollars. I need to learn how to do I myself.
Not all service ppl are so thorough, this kid is a rock star. I work for a small family owned business and we do the same thing. When we do a service, its a complete service.
Next time you have them come out, ask them if they are changing the filters (there is also one in the pump), and watch them. If you pay for a cleaning/service and they are not doing this, don't call them again.
@@baysideprod.6126 No, he is not a rock star. There's another filter screen at the burner unit that gets mucked up. This is particularly problematic if tank filter maintenance is not frequent enough.
There's another filter screen at the burner unit that gets mucked up. This is particularly problematic if tank filter maintenance is not frequent enough.
Can I ask you a few questions, I’ve only had oil heat for a few years and I wanna know what the maintenance of a furnace looks like only because my first year I ran it dry and an oil company said I needed to pay them 500 bucks for oil filter and injector when it only needed to be bled
@roshi98 no, it's a common thing techs do, it can clog before the filter, and those filter don't filter everything. . Dude didn't change the strainer and also those ignitor are close to 20k v not 10k. Who uses an adjustable wrench and not a 5/8th.
@@ReubenSahlstrom yes. Fuel pump on left side. A pump strainer. $7.00 There are 4 Allen screws on the cover Make sure valve from oil tank is off Good luck👍
Yo... A tazer puts out about .0021 amps. The oil burner transformer when energized can put out 14,000-20,000 volts at 16-45 milli-amps... can kill you in 2 seconds of contact.
Great video, but for a diyer you don't need that special tool to get that nozzle off. You can do the same thing with a pair of open ended wrenches, that's all I carry
You are a young guy. Take a little advice from an old one. Wear nitrile gloves. That heating oil absorbs into your skin. It's toxic. Also breathing the fumes will screw up your lungs over a life time. My burner tech had severe breathing problems after doing this job for many years. Wear a mask when working with the fuel oil.
Nitrile gloves, yes....Wearing a mask is going to accomplish absolutely nothing if you're trying to not breathe heating oil fumes. You'd have to wear a respirator for volatile organics and you're just not going to do that every day cleaning burners. Your burner tech friend probably inhaled more radioactive dust from radon than any damage oil fumes would do. It's only the second leading cause of lung cancer and if your profession requires you to be hanging around in basements and crawl spaces for 40+ hours a week....
I guess that's something you could do, but it is usually not necessary and you don't want to damage the insulation piece that holds the fire. Its really not that strong.
The firebox is not cleaned. Put the metal heat exchanger can be cleaned with what looks like a baby pottle brush but is made of wire and is has about a 30 inch long handle. It removes the soot thereby keeping the heat exchanger clean and efficient@@ReubenSahlstrom
The brush I purchased decades ago has light metal bristles with a long stiff wire handle. I have used at two different personal residences with oil fired forced air furnaces. The first had clean out ports to insert the brush. I also brushed from the flue pipe connection. Current furnace is a Williamson. Only place to clean the heat exchanger ti to remove the connection to the flue pipe. I work the brush around the drum and up/down the length of the drum while vacuuming with a stiff tube inserted in the heat exchanger. It gets brushed every year. I collect less than a cup of the black scale from the cleaning. @@ReubenSahlstrom
@@monoralph1375 Interesting! I have done this to lots of gas and oil boilers as they seem to soot up worse (likely due to cooler heat exchanger temperatures?) but have never been trained on doing this to modern oil furnaces. Perhaps it is something to consider.
@@ReubenSahlstrom “Make sure that the sample point is before any draft diverter/hood or barometric damper so that the flue gasses are not diluted and the stack temperature has not been decreased by surrounding air used to balance the draft. “ - This reason specifically.
Yes that would make sense, which is why I put the probe in on the appliance side of the flue pipe, not downstream of the damper. The tester I was using has a long probe to test with, and I was able to insert it into the full undiluted exhaust.
I feel like this is a dying trade thanks for the detailed explanation!! Love it!
your customers are lucky to have such competent techs!
This was a fantastic video. It pulled me out of the dark on my furnace and now have a much better maintenance understanding. You've done a lot of people a great service with this.
Great video, nice to see a young guy not afraid to get his hands dirty! No gloves.
If protection is available, why not use it?
This is a pretty intensive maintenance routine because when I get a tech guy come over to do it, it doesn’t look like he does all this and charges me $275 dollars. I need to learn how to do I myself.
Not all service ppl are so thorough, this kid is a rock star. I work for a small family owned business and we do the same thing. When we do a service, its a complete service.
Next time you have them come out, ask them if they are changing the filters (there is also one in the pump), and watch them. If you pay for a cleaning/service and they are not doing this, don't call them again.
@@baysideprod.6126 No, he is not a rock star. There's another filter screen at the burner unit that gets mucked up. This is particularly problematic if tank filter maintenance is not frequent enough.
@@dramc-ov3cp actually, he is. But you are not.
@@dramc-ov3cpyou're going to tell me you check the strainer on every cleaning that you do?
Thank you! This was a great video from a newer hvac tech!
Ambitious young man is definitely on his way to earning alot of money . Nice to see
Steve Lavimoniere has prepared me well for this video 😂. Awesome job, you sure seem to know your stuff!
I take it you’re related to Benjamin. You’re equally competent and speak just as clearly. Subscribed.
Yes, Ben is my older Brother! He has taught me a lot!
@ReubenSahlstrom he's taught me a lot too- and I don't even know him! Thanks.
You are very knowledgeable! Well done 👏
This was so well done. Thank you!
There's another filter screen at the burner unit that gets mucked up. This is particularly problematic if tank filter maintenance is not frequent enough.
I guess I was not taught that, but it's good to learn more all the time!
Can I ask you a few questions, I’ve only had oil heat for a few years and I wanna know what the maintenance of a furnace looks like only because my first year I ran it dry and an oil company said I needed to pay them 500 bucks for oil filter and injector when it only needed to be bled
are they run on standard diesel? how do i know what type of filters i need for mine?
If that's a Bard it's the same one I have ,it's like 20 plus years old, still running hopefully stays that way
Thanks very informative
@2:24 You should open the tank valve to flush out any debris and also check the flow
isn't that what the filter is for? You'd have to flush out a lot of oil to clear out any significant amount of debris.
But you are also looking at flowrate @@roshi98
@roshi98 no, it's a common thing techs do, it can clog before the filter, and those filter don't filter everything. . Dude didn't change the strainer and also those ignitor are close to 20k v not 10k. Who uses an adjustable wrench and not a 5/8th.
@@oilandfireguy1739 Glad someone else has #2 oil in their blood 😉
Thanks for your excenllent vedio.
No strainer replacement?
Strainer? Is there a strainer?
@@ReubenSahlstrom yes. Fuel pump on left side. A pump strainer. $7.00
There are 4 Allen screws on the cover
Make sure valve from oil tank is off
Good luck👍
What max jet can get hotter?
Yo... A tazer puts out about .0021 amps. The oil burner transformer when energized can put out 14,000-20,000 volts at 16-45 milli-amps...
can kill you in 2 seconds of contact.
Great video, but for a diyer you don't need that special tool to get that nozzle off. You can do the same thing with a pair of open ended wrenches, that's all I carry
You are a young guy. Take a little advice from an old one. Wear nitrile gloves. That heating oil absorbs into your skin. It's toxic. Also breathing the fumes will screw up your lungs over a life time. My burner tech had severe breathing problems after doing this job for many years. Wear a mask when working with the fuel oil.
Nitrile gloves, yes....Wearing a mask is going to accomplish absolutely nothing if you're trying to not breathe heating oil fumes. You'd have to wear a respirator for volatile organics and you're just not going to do that every day cleaning burners. Your burner tech friend probably inhaled more radioactive dust from radon than any damage oil fumes would do. It's only the second leading cause of lung cancer and if your profession requires you to be hanging around in basements and crawl spaces for 40+ hours a week....
I’d put a new filter can. The way it looks, might fail soon with rot spots
Excellent service call. GREAT video and Great content 👍 oh and very adorable 😊
Where can we get the special wrench? Not finding it on Amzn.
Not many for sale on Amazon but I did find this one. amzn.to/3RhTnu4
Just use two box wrenches. Special wrench not required
How come you don't vacuum anything out
They make a device that you put over the nozzle to set the electrodes.
@@rrs26a Really? I was not aware of that! That is interesting, could be a pretty useful tool. Where do they sell them?
If you could come over and do mine that would be great!
U didn't vacuum the heat exchanger. Why?
I guess that's something you could do, but it is usually not necessary and you don't want to damage the insulation piece that holds the fire. Its really not that strong.
The firebox is not cleaned. Put the metal heat exchanger can be cleaned with what looks like a baby pottle brush but is made of wire and is has about a 30 inch long handle. It removes the soot thereby keeping the heat exchanger clean and efficient@@ReubenSahlstrom
@@monoralph1375 what model of furnace are you referring to?
The brush I purchased decades ago has light metal bristles with a long stiff wire handle. I have used at two different personal residences with oil fired forced air furnaces. The first had clean out ports to insert the brush. I also brushed from the flue pipe connection.
Current furnace is a Williamson. Only place to clean the heat exchanger ti to remove the connection to the flue pipe. I work the brush around the drum and up/down the length of the drum while vacuuming with a stiff tube inserted in the heat exchanger. It gets brushed every year. I collect less than a cup of the black scale from the cleaning. @@ReubenSahlstrom
@@monoralph1375 Interesting! I have done this to lots of gas and oil boilers as they seem to soot up worse (likely due to cooler heat exchanger temperatures?) but have never been trained on doing this to modern oil furnaces. Perhaps it is something to consider.
The Beckett NX requires a quarter inch electrode gap. They are a different animal.
isnt that the wrong filter to replace it with ?
My filter never looks that dirty when I change it, that filter basket and those lines have seen better days.
You should be wearing vinyl gloves, Ruben
If only that were affordable. 😉 Just kidding, that'd probably be a good plan.
Use some clove 😊
Never take combustion readings from the barometric damper
Reason being? I haven't heard of that being an issue.
@@ReubenSahlstrom “Make sure that the sample point is before any draft diverter/hood or barometric damper so that the flue gasses are not diluted and the stack temperature has not been decreased by surrounding air used to balance the draft. “ - This reason specifically.
Yes that would make sense, which is why I put the probe in on the appliance side of the flue pipe, not downstream of the damper. The tester I was using has a long probe to test with, and I was able to insert it into the full undiluted exhaust.
Take this thing out and redo it you didn't set the electrodes Gap or you did not set the flame swirl death to the nozzle
Was going to give an A+ for an almost perfect service until you stuck the combustion analyzer in the wrong place. Otherwise, very very well done.
Where do you put the analyzer?
Didn't replace or clean the strainer either.
Wear gloves young man. Your skin will absorb that oil. Wont be good for you long term.
bro what is that tool called that u used on nozzle
Wear gloves dude. Not good to get diesel on your skin
For God's sake don't use pliers on a THUMB nut...hence the name
For your sake don't take God's name in vain.
Also, ideally you don't have to use a wrench, but it was a bit too tight for me to loosen.
God made the man that made thumb nuts and you used pliers to tighten it back on. All good just keep learning
A young Steve lav. Lost the accent though