Here is a trick. When I lowered the engine to allow the loose torque mount to clear the plastic liner, I did not completely remove the motor mount nuts. The two pointy engine mount bolts are just long enough to allow backing the nuts off about an inch, which is sufficient to wiggle out the torque mount. I liked that the engine was still held safely by the two motor mount nuts, and was prevented from dropping too far.
How was the car after changing this? I’m having a creaking sound in my civic when I take off from a stand still.. I can see this mount is broken so just wondering if this was the same for you.. thanks..
Sounds like a bad rear engine mount. There should be some videos on youtube showing how you can rock (push the car) from the front, and see how the engine is moving.
@@tubejim101 thanks for responding, I’ve gone ahead and bought a set of 5 motor mounts. I’ll replace the rear and the LH stabilizer mount see how it goes.
Just have done the same engine mount as yours on my 4 door 1998 EK3 Honda Civic and didn't need to lower the engine get the new mount on... When I tried to remote the 19mm bolt did the same thing, it unscrew the whole thing... The hardest part is to unbolt the nut, used the vice and tighten very much (to remove the rubber) and undo with a big long 19mm wrench! To put the new mount, put the screw on the new mount and just hand tight the 19mm nut. Then try to bend the mount beneath the fender to align the bolt. (Since is an rubber mount you can bend it) Then hand tight the screw to the engine... Do the 2x 14mm bolts... Then tighten the 19mm nut, but... Be careful! Do not over tighten, or the brand new mount starts to bend itself! DONE! I hope will help somebody!
I am not sure why that happens to so many people. Your not alone. The nut on the other side broke loose from the frame. Most likely have to cut it off. Get a magnet stick, and fish them out of the frame. Then tack weld some new nuts on the other side. I have never had to do it, I am just guessing how it might be done. If you figure it out, you should post a video.
Where di you find a place that sells the bolt I'm trying to track one down for mine it's the only thing holding me back your feedback would be great thank you
The easiest way is insert the hole into the bolt and then make a twist with the metal against metal of the car that will compress the rubber and will allow you to insert the new mount. Primero metes el tornillo en el hoyo y luego haces palanca con el metal de la pieza contra el metal del carro eso comprime la goma y ya te deja meter la pieza completa
Thread: 10 x 1.25 mm -- bolt head: 14mm hex head. Torque: 44 N.m 4.5 kgf.m, 33 ft.lbs Source: 1997-2000 HONDA CR-V Service Manual The length was not given, and unfortunately, I did not measure the length when I had it out.
correct me if i’m wrong but weren’t you supposed to put the bolt threw the bracket. put the whole assembly into place and then tighten the bolt with the splines using a box wrench
Man, that is a tough one. Maybe drill a small whole, and tack weld the nut back down. After that, hit it with some penetrating fluid, and let it sit for a while, then give it another try. Maybe drill two holed, 180 from each other. Also, check with an engine build shop. I am sure they must have had that happen to them before.
tubejim101 ya not to happy about it but is what it is.Exploring my options thanks for your suggestions very appreciated.Didn’t realize the bolts inside where tack welded beforehand or woulda been more easy goin with it....#TuneUpGoneBad
Hello. It should be flashing a code through that D4 light. Most likely your Automatic Transmission Computer is going bad. But you might be lucky, and it could just be, a solenoid valve going out.
Is the bolt that goes into the mount loose for yours? I bought a mount and there is a lot of play when I insert the bolt through the mount. Is that how it's supposed to be?
@@tubejim101 do you know what the thread pitch is for the 2 bolts that go into the frame? I tried m10 x 1.0/1.25/1.5 and none worked. I think it's most likely m10 x 1.25 but just need to confirm. Thanks.
Here is a trick. When I lowered the engine to allow the loose torque mount to clear the plastic liner, I did not completely remove the motor mount nuts. The two pointy engine mount bolts are just long enough to allow backing the nuts off about an inch, which is sufficient to wiggle out the torque mount.
I liked that the engine was still held safely by the two motor mount nuts, and was prevented from dropping too far.
Thanks so much for your time to do this, one of the better videos I've watched!
Your welcome :)
How was the car after changing this? I’m having a creaking sound in my civic when I take off from a stand still.. I can see this mount is broken so just wondering if this was the same for you.. thanks..
Sounds like a bad rear engine mount. There should be some videos on youtube showing how you can rock (push the car) from the front, and see how the engine is moving.
@@tubejim101 thanks for responding, I’ve gone ahead and bought a set of 5 motor mounts. I’ll replace the rear and the LH stabilizer mount see how it goes.
Just have done the same engine mount as yours on my 4 door 1998 EK3 Honda Civic and didn't need to lower the engine get the new mount on...
When I tried to remote the 19mm bolt did the same thing, it unscrew the whole thing...
The hardest part is to unbolt the nut, used the vice and tighten very much (to remove the rubber) and undo with a big long 19mm wrench!
To put the new mount, put the screw on the new mount and just hand tight the 19mm nut.
Then try to bend the mount beneath the fender to align the bolt. (Since is an rubber mount you can bend it)
Then hand tight the screw to the engine...
Do the 2x 14mm bolts...
Then tighten the 19mm nut, but... Be careful! Do not over tighten, or the brand new mount starts to bend itself!
DONE!
I hope will help somebody!
Good video. Actually showed the struggle of putting it on. Thanks
do you happen to have a link to the bolt you said it was 11 dollars?
Just call a Honda dealer parts department. I think the part number is: 90131-ST7-000 but you need to double check.
What if those two 14 mm bolts keep spinning. What would you suggest ? Burn them off or cut the bolts
I am not sure why that happens to so many people. Your not alone. The nut on the other side broke loose from the frame. Most likely have to cut it off. Get a magnet stick, and fish them out of the frame. Then tack weld some new nuts on the other side. I have never had to do it, I am just guessing how it might be done. If you figure it out, you should post a video.
Where did you get your torque mounts from? Did you buy that five piece kit from Amazon?
amzn.to/2i7dMTJ
Where di you find a place that sells the bolt I'm trying to track one down for mine it's the only thing holding me back your feedback would be great thank you
You can get them at your dealer, or pull one from a wrecking yard.
Nice video, I'm going to try this on my 97 Honda Civic
It is a good skill to have. They seem to go out on a lot of Civics.
Mine just hit 203,000 miles. Wife says to get rid of it, It was my college car & nothing makes you proud when you fixed it yourself.
I would say put it on bolt then fasten bolt with it on splash guard wont matter then and you already had bolt off...great video thowe
The easiest way is insert the hole into the bolt and then make a twist with the metal against metal of the car that will compress the rubber and will allow you to insert the new mount.
Primero metes el tornillo en el hoyo y luego haces palanca con el metal de la pieza contra el metal del carro eso comprime la goma y ya te deja meter la pieza completa
You could have done it when you had the bolt out, put the mount in and then put the bolt through?
That was the hope. But, no.
Put the bolt in the mount and angle it in and up. Thats why the bolt comes out. Dont put lock tite on there!!
@@KenG-hn2oz I was thinking the same thing thing! Why didn’t he put the bolt in the mount 1st and then screw the bolt back in?
Can ayone help me out by telling me what type of thread the bolt is.?
You can always call Honda. My local dealer is great at giving me parts info. Free plug for www.roseburghonda.com/
Most tap and tie sets have the tool to measure thread type
Thread: 10 x 1.25 mm -- bolt head: 14mm hex head.
Torque: 44 N.m 4.5 kgf.m, 33 ft.lbs
Source: 1997-2000 HONDA CR-V Service Manual
The length was not given, and unfortunately, I did not measure the length when I had it out.
Was this messing with your steering causeine is bad and can't find this jumping issue and messes with the steering
correct me if i’m wrong but weren’t you supposed to put the bolt threw the bracket. put the whole assembly into place and then tighten the bolt with the splines using a box wrench
You can do it whatever way works for you. This is just how I did it.
Went to remove my Lower engine mount and both bolts just spin and spin any suggestions on what I should do seem to be no access point on the frame....
Man, that is a tough one. Maybe drill a small whole, and tack weld the nut back down. After that, hit it with some penetrating fluid, and let it sit for a while, then give it another try. Maybe drill two holed, 180 from each other. Also, check with an engine build shop. I am sure they must have had that happen to them before.
tubejim101 ya not to happy about it but is what it is.Exploring my options thanks for your suggestions very appreciated.Didn’t realize the bolts inside where tack welded beforehand or woulda been more easy goin with it....#TuneUpGoneBad
Hey do you think you could help me, my Honda Accord 1993 D4 light keeps blinking it just started today and was wondering how to fit it?
Hello. It should be flashing a code through that D4 light. Most likely your Automatic Transmission Computer is going bad. But you might be lucky, and it could just be, a solenoid valve going out.
What size is the bolt that goes In the middle of the mount mine snapped off and motor rattles like crazy
Honda parts department can look it up for you.
Is the bolt that goes into the mount loose for yours? I bought a mount and there is a lot of play when I insert the bolt through the mount. Is that how it's supposed to be?
It moves a little. You can see me move it here: th-cam.com/video/RN0bQstmdhE/w-d-xo.html
@@tubejim101 Thanks. Do you know what the purpose of this mount is since there is play?
@@chue240sx It is one of the mounting points for the engine, to attach to the engine bay.
@@tubejim101 do you know what the thread pitch is for the 2 bolts that go into the frame? I tried m10 x 1.0/1.25/1.5 and none worked. I think it's most likely m10 x 1.25 but just need to confirm. Thanks.
@@chue240sx Should be 1.25.
Watch the Cris Fix video if you want to find out how to do this job right. Just saying it may save ya some time and money!
Can you provide a link?
The motor mount stretches its eazy. Tug one side in then pull there side under
Remove the plastic
Thanks this vid helped me out
Your welcome.
Thank you
Your welcome :)
Me justaría qué la tradición no sea muy rápido porque no se alcanza a leer bien
thank you!
Good Job !
I turned the engine mount bracket then you don't have to lower the engine. Thanks for the video
What year, make, and model are you working on?
17:30 video failed👎
24 years later, and people are still working on these cars. Says something about how well they where made.
If you had that bolt out that mount goes on out couldn't you have just but the mount on the bolt inside of dropping the motor
The mount covers up the spot, you put your wrench on, to turn the main bolt.
tubejim101 do you remember the size of the bolt that goes into the bracket ?
Think it was 19mm.
tubejim101 Whats the name of that 19mm bolt?
how many engine mounts does a 1997 to 1999 civic? thank you sir
amzn.to/2qUK5KH