I have the same truck. About to redo entire front end. Sway bar, center link, upper lower c/a's hubs etc., Your video is great but instead of taking this apart piece by piece can I just drop the whole from end if I disconnect the axles (all brake stuff is removed already) ?
Answering my own question here, I see that the torsion bars may make that idea a little challenging BUT I am also replacing the torsion key to get a little lift so I my be able to kill two birds with one stone here.
A few decent hits with the hammer on the knuckle itself freed mine. If you’re having issues, a 20 minute WD40 soak goes a long way. Do that and then do the hammer strikes on the knuckle itself and it should let it pop.
I had to replace the tie rod boots after a couple months, but I chalk that up to the GM dealership probably tearing them when they did the alignment. The replacements have held up fine.
Are you using a suspension kit, and if yes, which one? Otherwise, would it be possible to get links to your parts used? Would like to do the same to my 04 Avalanche, and watching your vid, I know your parts work!
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 You should've changed your axels, especially if it has high milage. It only cost around $70.oo for a new axel with the rubber boots. Also, the pitman arms have 3 ball joints, that need replacing. All together, you have 9 ball joints that can be wore out. For best results, use AC Delco parts. Use Mobile 1 red full synthetic grease. The steering box pitman arm is hard to get to. I had to use a cut off wheel & grinder to cut a relief in that pitman arm, to get mine off. You have to remove the steering box to get the big 34 mm nut off. You can't use a socket, you have you use a wrench, or big adjustable. Get ready for lots of cussing. You can also adjust your steering box, by loosening the 15 mm nut, then use a 3/16th. Allen wrench. Turn the Allen screw about 1/4-- 1/3. turn in, then tighten the 15 mm nut. Your steering will be much more responsive.
You’re right, they do have the tools. But having worked on a lot cars, and having many good friends in the mechanic world, those little things that make they’re life easier go a LONG way.
Those little 4 tabs on your lower ball joint they are called ribits okay I just want to try to help clarify I'm from Michigan the land of the Damned Chevy we got to deal with rushed up here it
@@RobertSmith-li2eu Michigan is the land of the educated, but not one lick of common sense. They're lost in some weird fantasy land. Most are Biden supporters.
Thanks! Really appreciate TH-camrs like you
Fantastic video man! Will be saving this for my 2004 Escalade upgrades
good video man, something I definitely need to do asap.
He's not showing the work. He only shows once the part is removed
I tried to explain each step so “the work” didn’t need to be shown and make the video 3 hours long.
So how did you press in the lower bj? It would've been nice to see how you got it in and out!
Use a ball joint press. You can rent one from your local auto parts store.
One of those shims on the upper control arms my avalanche is facing all the way down is on both sides could this have been done on purpose
I have the same truck. About to redo entire front end. Sway bar, center link, upper lower c/a's hubs etc., Your video is great but instead of taking this apart piece by piece can I just drop the whole from end if I disconnect the axles (all brake stuff is removed already) ?
Answering my own question here, I see that the torsion bars may make that idea a little challenging BUT I am also replacing the torsion key to get a little lift so I my be able to kill two birds with one stone here.
How’d you get the knuckle off the lower ball joint? Mine is stuck like crazy
A few decent hits with the hammer on the knuckle itself freed mine. If you’re having issues, a 20 minute WD40 soak goes a long way. Do that and then do the hammer strikes on the knuckle itself and it should let it pop.
Great video. Any links for the parts you used? Probably change out the same stuff too on my 2005 Silverado.
Added the parts info to the description. I ordered everything through RockAuto.com
How have the Mevotech Supreme parts held up for you?
I had to replace the tie rod boots after a couple months, but I chalk that up to the GM dealership probably tearing them when they did the alignment. The replacements have held up fine.
Are you using a suspension kit, and if yes, which one? Otherwise, would it be possible to get links to your parts used? Would like to do the same to my 04 Avalanche, and watching your vid, I know your parts work!
Added the parts info to the description. I ordered everything through RockAuto.com
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 You should've changed your axels, especially if it has high milage. It only cost around $70.oo for a new axel with the rubber boots.
Also, the pitman arms have 3 ball joints, that need replacing. All together, you have 9 ball joints that can be wore out. For best results, use AC Delco parts.
Use Mobile 1 red full synthetic grease. The steering box pitman arm is hard to get to. I had to use a cut off wheel & grinder to cut a relief in that pitman arm, to get mine off.
You have to remove the steering box to get the big 34 mm nut off. You can't use a socket, you have you use a wrench, or big adjustable. Get ready for lots of cussing.
You can also adjust your steering box, by loosening the 15 mm nut, then use a 3/16th. Allen wrench. Turn the Allen screw about 1/4-- 1/3. turn in, then tighten the 15 mm nut.
Your steering will be much more responsive.
@@ricktaylor3748, good advice.
good job. question about what book do you use it to get the torque specifications.?
Factory Service Manual. Expensive to buy, but if you do your own work, it’s well worth it.
Did you have to release the tension on the torsion bars before removing the knuckle?
Nope
Where did you get that book for all your torques?
Haynes Repair Manual from the haynes website, only like 25 dollars printed or ebook version.
Hi. And how significant was the ride quality after you changed the suspension parts
Massively better considering my upper ball joints were shot.
Nice Job.
You don't have to leave the bolts loose for the alignment guys, they have tools that will twist that nut right off
You’re right, they do have the tools. But having worked on a lot cars, and having many good friends in the mechanic world, those little things that make they’re life easier go a LONG way.
Don't have to be 100% loose, but also if they are super tight , could ruin them by having to break em loose again.
You mean use a 3 pounds sledgehammer,no a 3 ton.😮
Those little 4 tabs on your lower ball joint they are called ribits okay I just want to try to help clarify I'm from Michigan the land of the Damned Chevy we got to deal with rushed up here it
Good to know. Thanks for the info. And yeah, I’m very familiar with Michigan. Lived there until I was 24.
@@takeroadslesstraveled6505 well at least you were smart and you got out of Michigan have a good day
@@RobertSmith-li2eu Michigan is the land of the educated, but not one lick of common sense. They're lost in some weird fantasy land. Most are Biden supporters.
If the upper control arm is making the wheel bounce when it's going down.The road is that means for a new upper control alarm