6:00 using the chisel bevel-down would give you more control when removing material, granted the more important part as you said is getting the shoulders as accurate as possible 😊
@@HelpAtMyHome bevel up lets you keep a flatter bottom by using the base of the chisel as a reference - but your chisel is only so long so it only works for the start. Using it bevel down means you can control the depth by using the bevel as a lever. The chisel will move in the opposite side of the bevel, it’ll keep wedging itself in that direction
That dado you cut is the literal definition of a learning curve. My brain insists that one should actually do the opposite. Instead of actually undoing the plywood by cutting a dado on a sheet of ply that thick, I suppose one could stack and laminate two sheets of ply half the thickness and stagger them. Then rip the overhang and glue that over to the staggered side and leaving a gap that will have the excactly same function as this dado. The time spent for the labour will be only valuable if you have no access to ply half the thickness. Still this was a great show of determination by you! 💪 It is very important to experiment and feel the actual value of your time by using it ineffectively for a short period of time while infusing yourself with the knowledge to use time more wisely for the long term. Cool to see your experiment and I enjoyed your commentary and reflection 👌
@@HelpAtMyHome a sharpened chisel makes a huge difference. Bevel up to go deeper and bevel down to cut across Just the most rudimentary sharpness , easier faster safer
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6:00 using the chisel bevel-down would give you more control when removing material, granted the more important part as you said is getting the shoulders as accurate as possible 😊
Thanks for the tip. The bezel down vs bevel up thing always confuses me. It seems like much more people who know more than I do prefer bevel down!
@@HelpAtMyHome bevel up lets you keep a flatter bottom by using the base of the chisel as a reference - but your chisel is only so long so it only works for the start.
Using it bevel down means you can control the depth by using the bevel as a lever. The chisel will move in the opposite side of the bevel, it’ll keep wedging itself in that direction
That dado you cut is the literal definition of a learning curve.
My brain insists that one should actually do the opposite.
Instead of actually undoing the plywood by cutting a dado on a sheet of ply that thick, I suppose one could stack and laminate two sheets of ply half the thickness and stagger them. Then rip the overhang and glue that over to the staggered side and leaving a gap that will have the excactly same function as this dado.
The time spent for the labour will be only valuable if you have no access to ply half the thickness.
Still this was a great show of determination by you! 💪
It is very important to experiment and feel the actual value of your time by using it ineffectively for a short period of time while infusing yourself with the knowledge to use time more wisely for the long term.
Cool to see your experiment and I enjoyed your commentary and reflection 👌
Kind words and an interesting idea!
Thank you for using the word "accurate" instead of the more popular, but incorrect, "precise."
Sharp that chisel and this would take less than fourth the time
Even with plywood? It could use a sharpening, I just wasn’t sure if it would make a big difference with the plywood glue
@@HelpAtMyHome a sharpened chisel makes a huge difference. Bevel up to go deeper and bevel down to cut across
Just the most rudimentary sharpness , easier faster safer