Good video. I am retired, but I have 30 + years professional experience in building, finishing and repairing high end custom furniture. You're right about having to have a good eye and a knack for matching color. Fortunately, I do. I also have a four year university degree in fine art, which also helps. I became very proficient in touch up work. I'm so glad that you pointed out that the angle you look at a color retouch affects how the eye perceives it. I remember when I first started doing retouch I had worked on a repair of a cigarette burn on a mahogany table top. I had puttied it in and applied a lacquer topcoat, then using Mohawk™ Two Minute Touchup materials and a fine artist's brush, I carefully painted in the grain, gave it a another coat of lacquer, and stepped back to admire my work. It was perfect! You could never tell that had been a two inch long,3/8" wide, black burn on this fine piece of furniture. Then I put up my kit on a shelf on the other side of the room. When I came back I saw the retouch from a different angle. Damn! It stuck out like a sore thumb. I mean, it couldn't have been more obvious if you had a spotlight shining on it. All I could do was compromise. I touched it up from several different angles until I finally got it to look decent from any angle. Thereafter when doing large touch ups, I used a similar approach from the start. I learned to do touch ups so they would look best from the angle they would most likely be seen. Remember, you are camouflaging the defect, not eliminating it.
I've done this too for 30+ years. I say you can't duplicate chatoyance. Now, having said that, I am willing to pay money to anyone who can prove me wrong.
I was thoroughly engrossed in your video! I am 75 and way past being able to do stuff like this but have always been very interested in woodwork. Fantastic information for up and coming woodworkers.🤗🇦🇺😊
¡De los errores se aprende! Y quien no aprende de ellos es un necio. Muchas gracias por compartir sus experiencias y más aún por la hidalguía de reconocer cuando uno se ha equivocado. Tiene mucha razón en ese tipo de reparaciones. Yo hice una vez algo parecido el arreglo no duró ni una semana, se rompió y el daño fue peor. Sus videos son muy instructivos e ilustrativos, gracias por compartirlos. Saludos y éxitos en sus proyectos.
Scott, you are such a good teacher! I have been subscribed for awhile now and you have never failed to teach me something - not only with furniture repair but (in my eyes, more importantly) also as a woodworker. You are cautious, careful and very contentious. Thank you for the lesson.
Nice video. You do very good work. But a small fun fact balsa wood is a hardwood. This is because it is an angiosperm tree, which is what defines hardwood. I believe balsa wood is softer than poplar. 😊
The clean lathe system looks like it performs great! Nice work designing that. Hardware stores around me do sell red oak dowels, which isn't the best for fine furniture, but at least it is sturdy if you don't have a lathe.
Thanks for leaving the missed risers (?) part of the video. it`s reassuring to us. shows us how normal it is.. Also, thanks for the explanation of how to use turning chisels.
Scott, nice repair on the child's rocker. I'm always interested in seeing how color matching with dyes and stains and wax stick blending is accomplished. I'm also interested in that weird "don't do this" rocker repair. Did you ever fix it? Almost surely there was a set of arms on it that I would think would help strengthen that weak back joint. I also assume the spindle with the bad bottom end repair is just another more elaborate lathe job. If you did repair it were you able to design a stronger back joint? Anyway, I would love to see that chair repaired and a video posted. Cheers from VT!
Will vinegar work for any glue? I bought some Windsor chairs and didn't realize until I got them home that many of them had been re-glued and they missed several of the stretchers were missed. I don't know what type of glue they used but I can't get it apart. Any advice?
I just love watching artisans at work. It gives me a sense of satisfaction I'm rarely able to generate from my own sad efforts. And I always smile when I hear Canadians pronounce the word 'out'. Excellent video, thank you.
@Fixingfurniture thanks for the lesson. I have a very similar rocker to repair. I don't have a lathe unfortunately. Nor do I have money to pay someone who does. For woodfill there's another option for custom fill...remove the old finish then once it's clean you can sand the area. Collect the dust and mix it with ca glue really well...
A round dowel-type spindle can be recreated with a block plane and some sand paper: start with a square blank slightly larger than the desired dowel; plane the corners off to turn the square into an octagon; knock the corners off again to get a 16-a-gon (what?! you'd prefer to call it a hexadecimal-a-gon?). A whisper-pass with the block plane or a cabinet scraper for those comments leaves the blank ready for light sanding to a round dowel.
I watch this guy from time to time and he seems To “fail” every time. His presentation is pretentious but his skills seem lacking. It is always good for a chuckle. Good for him for his success.
Another great video. Im interesting in seeing even more videos about how to touch up finishes (not necessarily stain colors) as well as more content about non-toxic finishing options. Love the channel.
I truly admire your skill in furniture repair. The way you present things is easy to understand and calm in the way you explain. That vacuum system on your lathe is a wonderfully simple but ingenious idea. Keep up the great work as I have subscribed and liked this video and look forward to many more in the future.
Hello my dear friend. I liked your work and your channel very much. You are very successful and thank you for sharing it with us. Best regards, greetings from Turkey
Wow! I would have spelled "Shoot" a little differently!!! :) I now have a better appreciation for the concept of hide glue being reversible. I sometimes catch errors later after the glue is dry. Thank you for the video!
I am watching your videos for quite a while. I think each of them are having quite valuable lessons. I also look at the videos of other people who repair furniture, but your working technique, cleanliness, analytical approach and on-point explanations are incredibly beautiful and of much better quality. Thank you very much for these shares.
I like drilling out a mortise by about 1/64 of an inch and making the tenon wider by the same so as to get new ‘raw’ wood to glue to. Great job, thanks.
Scott, I truly enjoy your videos, and as a beginner in furniture repair I get a lot of useful advice out of them. I also loved how you did not edit out your mistake (which was something very familiar :)). Definitely interested in color matching, but I would also like to know more about the acrylic stain you are using. I don't live in North-America, so my choices will probably be different, but it would help my research. And one more thing, I would love to know how you sharpen your woodworking tools, this is an area where I struggle a lot :) Many thanks again for making these videos available.
I would love to see a course on everything that has to do with color matching! I understand that an ounce of cure is worth a pound of prevention, meaning the closer you can get the better. I understand using oil based toners to “tweak” the color. I also understand that there is a type of special lacquer that you can use after each time you put a layer of stain on to give you multiple chances to “build up the color ” and get the color right. My problem is that no one sells these products where I live in Alaska. because these are considered hazardous materials, the shipping is extremely expensive! So, understanding alternatives would be very helpful, also understanding the differences between water based and oil based stains and how the process differs. It looks like you just layered the water based stain on top of itself to “tone” the part. Finally if all else fails or you make a mistake while you are developing the skill what do you do? I love your videos! I think it is so sad that nowadays when something breaks you just throw it in the garbage and buy a new one. It’s too bad that commercial furniture isn’t made like it used to be.
Scott, this is another great video; you're an excellent teacher. One thing that I would add is that when color matching, ideally you want to be right on. However, this is nearly impossible. So if you err, it is better to err on the side of darker rather than lighter. Why? Lighter is naturally more noticeable to the eye.
hi great video i must admit i have been making dowel repairs for years i am a good spindle turner an have reproduced parts when necessery ,what repair do you reccomend for the second rocking chair ? make a new part ? thanks again for a great video
It's funny you put this video out now. I am currently repairing a coffee table with an X-stretcher. There is an acorn that ties the stretchers together in the middle. It has been repaired previously, and they used a technique similar to what you talked about. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for another great video, Scott! While I agree that dowels are not the best way to repair a stretcher, there are some jobs where dowels come in mighty handy! The previous repair was probably doing the best he could with what he had. Your logic makes sense. Looking forward to your next video! On a side note, have you been watching the development of the possible mandatory inclusion of “saw stop” technology on new table saws? I’d like to hear your thoughts (good or bad) about that idea. Maybe as part of a bigger safety theme. You always are doing the safe things!
In regards to the dowel-fix, that you don't want to do anymore. I have no idea if it will work. Sometime, to preserve the original wood as much as possible, it's the "only" way. But I'm thinking.... How about a stepping dowel? A deep 3 mm hole, a not so deep 5 mm, not so deep 7 mm and so on. Then turn a dowel to match. Or (more difficult) a conical hole and dowel. Might be worth testing? I'm not a woodworker (yet), but I enjoy your videos, preparing myself for a possible retirement job/hobby. ;)
A dowel joint is a strong joint if it's done correctly. Dowels have been used in joints throughout history. But part of what you are saying is correct. The strength of the joint is along the sides of the dowel. This works well if the wood the dowel is going into is thick enough. Then the weak spot at the end of the dowel that you spoke of is not weak at all. But when you have paper thin wood around the dowel, it's an extremely weak joint. It's the same thing if you secure something with a screw or a bolt. That can be an extremely strong joint. But only if it has a lot wood around the fastener to give it that strength. If you screw into thin or compromised wood, that joint will fall apart. And another factor to consider in a glue joint is surface area. The more contact surface between the two pieces being glued, the stronger the connection.
Another great tutorial Scott, one thing I have noticed over the years that I have been watching you and also Thomas Johnson. is that you conflict in your method to take apart an Item/chair what ever. he uses vinegar also but alway more often than not. he uses a mallet to knock them apart. altho I have seen him use a spreader also. but most of the time a hammer. And with great success I might add. I just attribute that to personal preference. but also ingest that skill factor and experience come into play also. Just a personal observation thanks again I never come away with out learning something, and at 81 , I'm proof that you are never too old to learn. ECF
There's a "dowel" repair I've been wanting to try, but haven't had a chance to test yet. My idea is to drill a hole using a "stepless" drill, and put a cone on the dowel to match. It would be mostly side grain. And I wouldn't use a home center dowel, but instead something at least as strong as the original wood. If you've tried that, I'd be interested to hear your results.
I agree with you tonot use dowels to repair dowel but as I mentioned before with the chair missing the cross rail a dowel would have made the leg more as one with the frame rather than just one screw. Murray Alberta Canada 😊
28:35 For the spring-rocker: other than disassembling the back and turning reproduction back spindles with new tenons, is there a way to repair the back?
What about using a tapered drill bit and a dowel tapered at the same angle? Would need to make some jigs to shape the dowels. But could save time for a complex turning or where rare wood is involved
It would be nice to see a video on how to tell what finish is on an existing piece if we aren't refinishing the whole piece and also what finishes are appropriate for a piece of furniture and why. Don't know if you've done that before.
Hi Scott from the UK. I bought a very old set of chairs, which at one point had castors added to the front legs. They seemed retrofitted, and half of the casters were badly damaged beyond repair, or in very bad shape. I'd removed them and planned to fix the front legs back to the correct length (that is sans castors) using the previous method - would it still be suitable if the force is travelling directly downwards, or is there any alternative fix rather than replacing the legs entirely?
It really depends on the dimension of the material you're working with. It might be possible to use a "foot" with an integrated tenon. We can discuss it over a Zoom session if you're interested. Here's a link to buy an advice session - woodenitbenice.ca/collections/woodworking-advice-sessions
Do the acrylic stains raise the grain since it'd be water based? That's usually the main drawback. Maybe that's what burnishing with the paper solves. Looks like a good result though.
Your thoughts on using dowels for repair are very interesting. Given that, what's your opinion of using dominoes for repair work? Thanks for putting out your content. Very helpful.
Hi Paul. When repairing work, it really depends on how much wood structure you're taking out when modifying it with a domino. The key is to ensure the furniture is strong. As you've seen, the flaw in adding dowels in these examples is that they weakens the furniture. I hope that helps. Scott
Here's a video with a review of spreaders clamps. There are links in the video description for shopping. This should give you everything you need. th-cam.com/video/4o32qUx1dlw/w-d-xo.html
It seems to me that, perhaps, a serious problem here that was overlooked was a _structural_ repair of the chair seat. Do you have another video that covers this? I have such a chair in need of repair -- where the entire seat was split and partially repaired with a metal strap on the bottom. Suggestions?
Hi, any advice as to how I can restore a matte finish on a white wood dresser? I accidentally cleaned a spot on it with something that made this one section all glossy so the finish looks horribly uneven now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
If the only option is a dowel type situation, create a dowel across the grain then when installing, you will always have across grain to end grain situation. This is similar to a normal doweled joint where there is always a cross grain situation and an end grain to cross grain.
I do not agree with you regarding dowels. There are usually three mistakes made that compromise the repair. 1) Not using a hardwood dowel. 2) Not insuring that the dowel seats all the way (and is good fit). 3) Not cutting a groove (or two) along the length of the dowel in order to give the glue someplace to go. Without the last, one will find it impossible to seat the dowel.
#3 has been the killer for me, along with not tapering/chamfering the ends of the dowel. Keeping the stress away from the bottom edge of the hole makes dowels less likely to split the parts being joined when driven all the way down.
Thats some contraption you have for collecting dust .I use a 4 inch hose connected to Dust Deputy .The skew chisel works better than a roughing gouge on the lathe almost no sanding required
22:20 is he gonna catch it? 22:26 Ahh nooo, Scott no!! 23:15 You JUST said "while the glue is still wet"! Quick, Scott, quick! 23:52 uh-oh, did all those camera moves to catch the mistake cost you too much time? 23:55 Ahh, good. Phew. Love it, thanks for leaving it in for the teachable moment.
10:21 Keep your lateral pressure away from the blade. If you're pushing the wood into the fence and you move to far forward, you start pushing the wood against the blade, trapping the blade. That's when kickbacks can happen. I see this done time and time again on TH-cam. Never trap the blade.
Another informative and enjoyable video. Any reason not to put a couple of bowties/dutchmen on the underside of that seat to keep the split at bay? Other than cost? -John
@@FixingFurniture When putting a dowel in a drilled hole, air and glue are trapped in front of the dowel while inserting. Sawing or scratching an escape channel along the dowel allows air and glue to escape.
I appreciate it when creators do not edit their mistakes out. Thanks for the video.
Yeah, me too. We learn more from their mistakes than from their successes.
@@solarwinds- Same here. I've learned so much from just two videos already.
Good video. I am retired, but I have 30 + years professional experience in building, finishing and repairing high end custom furniture.
You're right about having to have a good eye and a knack for matching color. Fortunately, I do. I also have a four year university degree in fine art, which also helps. I became very proficient in touch up work. I'm so glad that you pointed out that the angle you look at a color retouch affects how the eye perceives it. I remember when I first started doing retouch I had worked on a repair of a cigarette burn on a mahogany table top. I had puttied it in and applied a lacquer topcoat, then using Mohawk™ Two Minute Touchup materials and a fine artist's brush, I carefully painted in the grain, gave it a another coat of lacquer, and stepped back to admire my work. It was perfect! You could never tell that had been a two inch long,3/8" wide, black burn on this fine piece of furniture. Then I put up my kit on a shelf on the other side of the room. When I came back I saw the retouch from a different angle. Damn! It stuck out like a sore thumb. I mean, it couldn't have been more obvious if you had a spotlight shining on it. All I could do was compromise. I touched it up from several different angles until I finally got it to look decent from any angle. Thereafter when doing large touch ups, I used a similar approach from the start. I learned to do touch ups so they would look best from the angle they would most likely be seen. Remember, you are camouflaging the defect, not eliminating it.
I've done this too for 30+ years. I say you can't duplicate chatoyance. Now, having said that, I am willing to pay money to anyone who can prove me wrong.
Hey Scott, I'd love to see a video about color matching! Thanks
I was thoroughly engrossed in your video! I am 75 and way past being able to do stuff like this but have always been very interested in woodwork. Fantastic information for up and coming woodworkers.🤗🇦🇺😊
Thank you for not taking that out. You certainly handled that better than I would.
23:16 this type of thing happens to me all the time!
Glad also that you used family friendly language 👍
Glad you appreciated that. I was really sweating to get the wedges out without breaking them! Cheers. Scott
¡De los errores se aprende! Y quien no aprende de ellos es un necio. Muchas gracias por compartir sus experiencias y más aún por la hidalguía de reconocer cuando uno se ha equivocado. Tiene mucha razón en ese tipo de reparaciones. Yo hice una vez algo parecido el arreglo no duró ni una semana, se rompió y el daño fue peor. Sus videos son muy instructivos e ilustrativos, gracias por compartirlos. Saludos y éxitos en sus proyectos.
Scott, you are such a good teacher! I have been subscribed for awhile now and you have never failed to teach me something - not only with furniture repair but (in my eyes, more importantly) also as a woodworker. You are cautious, careful and very contentious. Thank you for the lesson.
Contentious? I dont' see that at all. But definitely cautious and careful. Not to mentioned skilled.
fascinating - I love how your videos really keep to the brief - no waffle - just really useful guidance - thanks for sharing your experience.
I LOVE the dust hood for the lathe!!! Need to make one for my self! Thanks for the inspiration.
Thank you, Sir, for your transparency. Few men these days have the courage to be humble and show their mistakes.
The new dowel looks perfect, as always! The wax really worked on the split. Thanks for another great set of lessons, Scott.
Terrific and educational video, Scott. I would love to see a stain-matching course. God bless you.
Nice video. You do very good work. But a small fun fact balsa wood is a hardwood. This is because it is an angiosperm tree, which is what defines hardwood. I believe balsa wood is softer than poplar. 😊
The clean lathe system looks like it performs great! Nice work designing that. Hardware stores around me do sell red oak dowels, which isn't the best for fine furniture, but at least it is sturdy if you don't have a lathe.
Thanks. Yes, Red Oak is harder than Poplar dowel. The key is to find one with very straight grain so it's as strong as possible. Cheers. Scott
Thanks for leaving the missed risers (?) part of the video. it`s reassuring to us. shows us how normal it is.. Also, thanks for the explanation of how to use turning chisels.
Yes, along with all the info, a video on how to solve mistakes, and what not to do 🙂
Scott, nice repair on the child's rocker. I'm always interested in seeing how color matching with dyes and stains and wax stick blending is accomplished. I'm also interested in that weird "don't do this" rocker repair. Did you ever fix it? Almost surely there was a set of arms on it that I would think would help strengthen that weak back joint. I also assume the spindle with the bad bottom end repair is just another more elaborate lathe job. If you did repair it were you able to design a stronger back joint? Anyway, I would love to see that chair repaired and a video posted. Cheers from VT!
Thanks for leaving the mistake in. If a master like you still makes mistakes then I don’t feel so bad when I mess up. I do, often.
Will vinegar work for any glue? I bought some Windsor chairs and didn't realize until I got them home that many of them had been re-glued and they missed several of the stretchers were missed. I don't know what type of glue they used but I can't get it apart. Any advice?
Ottimo restauratore. Un piacere guardarti nella tua precisione. 😊
Looks great Scott! Another beautiful project to be proud of.
I just love watching artisans at work. It gives me a sense of satisfaction I'm rarely able to generate from my own sad efforts. And I always smile when I hear Canadians pronounce the word 'out'. Excellent video, thank you.
Mistakes included. That tells me I can trust you more. A great video.
@Fixingfurniture thanks for the lesson. I have a very similar rocker to repair. I don't have a lathe unfortunately. Nor do I have money to pay someone who does.
For woodfill there's another option for custom fill...remove the old finish then once it's clean you can sand the area. Collect the dust and mix it with ca glue really well...
A round dowel-type spindle can be recreated with a block plane and some sand paper: start with a square blank slightly larger than the desired dowel; plane the corners off to turn the square into an octagon; knock the corners off again to get a 16-a-gon (what?! you'd prefer to call it a hexadecimal-a-gon?). A whisper-pass with the block plane or a cabinet scraper for those comments leaves the blank ready for light sanding to a round dowel.
@@davidseslar5798 thanks
I watch this guy from time to time and he seems
To “fail” every time. His presentation is pretentious but his skills seem lacking. It is always good for a chuckle. Good for him for his success.
And seriously. If you bind the dowel to the mother wood with say glue or epoxy you have made the whole stronger than the original.
Another great video. Im interesting in seeing even more videos about how to touch up finishes (not necessarily stain colors) as well as more content about non-toxic finishing options. Love the channel.
I truly admire your skill in furniture repair. The way you present things is easy to understand and calm in the way you explain. That vacuum system on your lathe is a wonderfully simple but ingenious idea. Keep up the great work as I have subscribed and liked this video and look forward to many more in the future.
Thanks once again for your measured and professional approach to each piece you work on. I learn every time.
For small diameter turnings it's better to cleave your blank rather than saw it. Many breaks are caused by short cross grain.
Great video, I learned a lot from this! Thanks!
I love watching your videos, one day you information will serve me well thank you!
Hello my dear friend. I liked your work and your channel very much. You are very successful and thank you for sharing it with us. Best regards, greetings from Turkey
Thanks for the "chatoyance" reference.
I never heard the word but it is definitely a significant issue when blending colors.
Thanks!
Scott: learned a lot of solid information for the way dowels work the right & wrong ways to do something. Thanks. Carol from California.
Glad it was helpful Carol! Thanks for sharing that!
Wow! I would have spelled "Shoot" a little differently!!! :) I now have a better appreciation for the concept of hide glue being reversible. I sometimes catch errors later after the glue is dry. Thank you for the video!
Excellent video!
I too would love to see a video on color matching.
I am watching your videos for quite a while. I think each of them are having quite valuable lessons. I also look at the videos of other people who repair furniture, but your working technique, cleanliness, analytical approach and on-point explanations are incredibly beautiful and of much better quality. Thank you very much for these shares.
Thanks for the video - appreciate you for sharing the mistake!
Glad you liked that. I surprised myself when that happened but thankfully I was able correct it quickly while the glue was wet. Cheers. Scott
I like drilling out a mortise by about 1/64 of an inch and making the tenon wider by the same so as to get new ‘raw’ wood to glue to.
Great job, thanks.
Scott, thanks for this very informative video. As always I learn something. Enjoyed the color matching at the end.
Great video thank you.
Beautiful job. I need to get a set of colors like those. I don't have a lathe, but now I have a little more courage to add one to the shop.
I have the same lathe, really like your dust collection setup hopefully some day I will be able to get one for mine
Scott, I truly enjoy your videos, and as a beginner in furniture repair I get a lot of useful advice out of them. I also loved how you did not edit out your mistake (which was something very familiar :)). Definitely interested in color matching, but I would also like to know more about the acrylic stain you are using. I don't live in North-America, so my choices will probably be different, but it would help my research. And one more thing, I would love to know how you sharpen your woodworking tools, this is an area where I struggle a lot :) Many thanks again for making these videos available.
Great job !!! I learned something,
Awesome! Thank you!
Great job. I enjoyed it and appreciate the passion you have for repairing.
I would love to see a course on everything that has to do with color matching! I understand that an ounce of cure is worth a pound of prevention, meaning the closer you can get the better. I understand using oil based toners to “tweak” the color. I also understand that there is a type of special lacquer that you can use after each time you put a layer of stain on to give you multiple chances to “build up the color ” and get the color right. My problem is that no one sells these products where I live in Alaska. because these are considered hazardous materials, the shipping is extremely expensive! So, understanding alternatives would be very helpful, also understanding the differences between water based and oil based stains and how the process differs. It looks like you just layered the water based stain on top of itself to “tone” the part. Finally if all else fails or you make a mistake while you are developing the skill what do you do? I love your videos! I think it is so sad that nowadays when something breaks you just throw it in the garbage and buy a new one. It’s too bad that commercial furniture isn’t made like it used to be.
Scott, this is another great video; you're an excellent teacher. One thing that I would add is that when color matching, ideally you want to be right on. However, this is nearly impossible. So if you err, it is better to err on the side of darker rather than lighter. Why? Lighter is naturally more noticeable to the eye.
hi great video i must admit i have been making dowel repairs for years i am a good spindle turner an have reproduced parts when necessery ,what repair do you reccomend for the second rocking chair ? make a new part ? thanks again for a great video
Would dowelling work if it was glued in with west sysyem epoxy?
Like the chip/dust collection on the lathe
Great some kind of a real job there scott 👍🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
It's funny you put this video out now. I am currently repairing a coffee table with an X-stretcher. There is an acorn that ties the stretchers together in the middle. It has been repaired previously, and they used a technique similar to what you talked about. Thanks for the great video.
Oh wow! I hope this was helpful for troubleshooting what to do for that repair. Good luck with your project. Scott
Another wonderful video Scott. Learned a couple of things from this one. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful! Have a great weekend!
Dziękuje za kolejny fajny filmik.
Zdrowia życzę.
Hi,it is a good job,and really want to see your video of wat to do and not to do on furniture repair
Thanks for your time and advise
I would definitely like to see more about color matching.
Thank you. That's helpful feedback. Scott
At 6:40 into the video a set of tiny picks would help alot on scraping away the glue from those joints after using the vinegar
That's a good idea. Thank you for sharing that tip! Scott #tip
@@FixingFurniture your welcome
Thanks for another great video, Scott! While I agree that dowels are not the best way to repair a stretcher, there are some jobs where dowels come in mighty handy! The previous repair was probably doing the best he could with what he had. Your logic makes sense. Looking forward to your next video!
On a side note, have you been watching the development of the possible mandatory inclusion of “saw stop” technology on new table saws? I’d like to hear your thoughts (good or bad) about that idea. Maybe as part of a bigger safety theme. You always are doing the safe things!
In regards to the dowel-fix, that you don't want to do anymore. I have no idea if it will work. Sometime, to preserve the original wood as much as possible, it's the "only" way. But I'm thinking.... How about a stepping dowel? A deep 3 mm hole, a not so deep 5 mm, not so deep 7 mm and so on. Then turn a dowel to match. Or (more difficult) a conical hole and dowel. Might be worth testing? I'm not a woodworker (yet), but I enjoy your videos, preparing myself for a possible retirement job/hobby. ;)
Color matching would be great! Please do a video on that.
A dowel joint is a strong joint if it's done correctly. Dowels have been used in joints throughout history. But part of what you are saying is correct. The strength of the joint is along the sides of the dowel. This works well if the wood the dowel is going into is thick enough. Then the weak spot at the end of the dowel that you spoke of is not weak at all. But when you have paper thin wood around the dowel, it's an extremely weak joint. It's the same thing if you secure something with a screw or a bolt. That can be an extremely strong joint. But only if it has a lot wood around the fastener to give it that strength. If you screw into thin or compromised wood, that joint will fall apart. And another factor to consider in a glue joint is surface area. The more contact surface between the two pieces being glued, the stronger the connection.
Glad to see that you use safety guards and shields on your power tools
Thanks for mentioning that and providing your feedback. It's helpful! Scott
Another great tutorial Scott, one thing I have noticed over the years that I have been watching you and also Thomas Johnson. is that you conflict in your method to take apart an Item/chair what ever. he uses vinegar also but alway more often than not. he uses a mallet to knock them apart. altho I have seen him use a spreader also. but most of the time a hammer. And with great success I might add. I just attribute that to personal preference. but also ingest that skill factor and experience come into play also. Just a personal observation thanks again I never come away with out learning something, and at 81 , I'm proof that you are never too old to learn. ECF
Scott g)ad to see you back great video
Thanks Robert! Glad you enjoyed the video! Have a great weekend
Perfect
There's a "dowel" repair I've been wanting to try, but haven't had a chance to test yet. My idea is to drill a hole using a "stepless" drill, and put a cone on the dowel to match. It would be mostly side grain. And I wouldn't use a home center dowel, but instead something at least as strong as the original wood. If you've tried that, I'd be interested to hear your results.
I agree with you tonot use dowels to repair dowel but as I mentioned before with the chair missing the cross rail a dowel would have made the leg more as one with the frame rather than just one screw.
Murray Alberta Canada 😊
Thanks that's realy good work. شكرا إنه عمل رائع
Je legt het rustig uit. Bedankt
Wonderful information! Thanks.
You're welcome! Scott
Nice work!
Thank you! I appreciate that! Scott
👍👍 👍. Thank you Scott
28:35 For the spring-rocker: other than disassembling the back and turning reproduction back spindles with new tenons, is there a way to repair the back?
Unfortunately, there isn't another way to do it to get thesolid construction needed to hold up to everyday use.
Muito bom trabalho...parabéns 👍🏻
You are a pro. Very entertaining to watch you doing your thing.
How would you repair the broken tenon on the “spring” rocker? Thanks.
What about using a tapered drill bit and a dowel tapered at the same angle? Would need to make some jigs to shape the dowels. But could save time for a complex turning or where rare wood is involved
Looks like there is an off the shelf solution to the dowel issue you mentioned. Look up miller dowels.
It would be nice to see a video on how to tell what finish is on an existing piece if we aren't refinishing the whole piece and also what finishes are appropriate for a piece of furniture and why. Don't know if you've done that before.
Hi Scott from the UK. I bought a very old set of chairs, which at one point had castors added to the front legs. They seemed retrofitted, and half of the casters were badly damaged beyond repair, or in very bad shape. I'd removed them and planned to fix the front legs back to the correct length (that is sans castors) using the previous method - would it still be suitable if the force is travelling directly downwards, or is there any alternative fix rather than replacing the legs entirely?
It really depends on the dimension of the material you're working with. It might be possible to use a "foot" with an integrated tenon. We can discuss it over a Zoom session if you're interested. Here's a link to buy an advice session - woodenitbenice.ca/collections/woodworking-advice-sessions
Do the acrylic stains raise the grain since it'd be water based? That's usually the main drawback. Maybe that's what burnishing with the paper solves. Looks like a good result though.
Your thoughts on using dowels for repair are very interesting. Given that, what's your opinion of using dominoes for repair work?
Thanks for putting out your content. Very helpful.
Hi Paul. When repairing work, it really depends on how much wood structure you're taking out when modifying it with a domino. The key is to ensure the furniture is strong. As you've seen, the flaw in adding dowels in these examples is that they weakens the furniture. I hope that helps. Scott
Say there Scotty looking for those spreader clamps “ help “
Here's a video with a review of spreaders clamps. There are links in the video description for shopping. This should give you everything you need. th-cam.com/video/4o32qUx1dlw/w-d-xo.html
It seems to me that, perhaps, a serious problem here that was overlooked was a _structural_ repair of the chair seat. Do you have another video that covers this? I have such a chair in need of repair -- where the entire seat was split and partially repaired with a metal strap on the bottom. Suggestions?
Hi, any advice as to how I can restore a matte finish on a white wood dresser? I accidentally cleaned a spot on it with something that made this one section all glossy so the finish looks horribly uneven now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
A gentle rub with superfine steel wool will dull a finish. It's sometimes sold a "0000" steel wool. Cheers. Scott
I would appreciate a video on matching colors.
If the only option is a dowel type situation, create a dowel across the grain then when installing, you will always have across grain to end grain situation. This is similar to a normal doweled joint where there is always a cross grain situation and an end grain to cross grain.
I do not agree with you regarding dowels. There are usually three mistakes made that compromise the repair. 1) Not using a hardwood dowel. 2) Not insuring that the dowel seats all the way (and is good fit). 3) Not cutting a groove (or two) along the length of the dowel in order to give the glue someplace to go. Without the last, one will find it impossible to seat the dowel.
#3 has been the killer for me, along with not tapering/chamfering the ends of the dowel. Keeping the stress away from the bottom edge of the hole makes dowels less likely to split the parts being joined when driven all the way down.
Using a tapered reamer/drill would probably be the best.
Thats some contraption you have for collecting dust .I use a 4 inch hose connected to Dust Deputy .The skew chisel works better than a roughing gouge on the lathe almost no sanding required
29:20 so how do you repair it without a dowel?
22:20 is he gonna catch it? 22:26 Ahh nooo, Scott no!! 23:15 You JUST said "while the glue is still wet"! Quick, Scott, quick! 23:52 uh-oh, did all those camera moves to catch the mistake cost you too much time? 23:55 Ahh, good. Phew.
Love it, thanks for leaving it in for the teachable moment.
I wish you would do more on pricing jobs
10:21 Keep your lateral pressure away from the blade.
If you're pushing the wood into the fence and you move to far forward, you start pushing the wood against the blade, trapping the blade. That's when kickbacks can happen.
I see this done time and time again on TH-cam. Never trap the blade.
Yo, professional wood turner: don’t hit your lathe Morse taper with metal..it will mushroom the end and in turn damage your internal MT on your lathe.
Another informative and enjoyable video. Any reason not to put a couple of bowties/dutchmen on the underside of that seat to keep the split at bay? Other than cost?
-John
At 40:41 you are trying to put a dowl in, first saw or scratch a way out for the glue trapped in front of the dowel.
Sorry, I don't understand your comment. Would you explain a bit more? Thanks
@@FixingFurniture When putting a dowel in a drilled hole, air and glue are trapped in front of the dowel while inserting. Sawing or scratching an escape channel along the dowel allows air and glue to escape.
Hi.. from Pakistan.. I have broken furniture joint.. can you help me fixing it if I share pictures?
How much would charge for a repair this. That`s always a hard one for me to figure out for me?