After watching most of your videos and those of Thomas Johnson, I took on a client's piece of furniture with "most of the time" confidence. I was not only able to disassemble the piece while tagging all the parts, cleaning the joints, but repair the splits and breaks even to replacing a piece of wood that had broken off. Light cleaning and sanding, some recoloring (TransTint) and regluing and the client was amazed I was such a genius. I replied that I had a good bit of help from some experts and mentors. Thanks for all you have shown as I will continue to keep watching.
It looks like the PU glue stuck better on the outside of the legs than inside the joints! One trick, if I may: for a colour like that, it is always adding the yellow into the white, to raise the white, it is almost impossible to add enough white to the yellow: as you show it, you ended up adding a lot of white. I learned that the hard way during my youth, tryng to colour match the blue of the tiles in the bathroom to hide a chipping. After defeat, I had to admit that my dad was right :)
Upholsterers have a tack lifter to pull nails out of wood, so you don't damage the wood that much. Or you can cut out a V shape out of an old narrow chisel, that is also possible.
Had a chair repair side business for a while. I hated when people nailed their chairs, as it would almost always end up like the one in this video. Even worse were nails in stretchers. Clients were always wondering why a $20 job turned into a $60 job. Nice job on the color matching.
I've been having trouble with some cheap wooden chairs which in my ignorance I'd "repaired" using screws instead of taking them apart & glueing them. Thanks to your videos I've had the confidence to attack the job anew, with knowledge of which glues are best for which jobs. Today I purchased some good PVA glue with an easy applicator, a pair of 450 mm quick action trigger clamps and some two-part epoxy adhesive for filling gaps made by time & movement. The clamps are just the right length to clamp the legs to the seat base. Once these adhesives have cured I can tackle the chair-backs which show little evidence of having been glued at all.
Scott: this sweet chair was a mess. You did such a nice job of repairing it. Believe me, I have seen at lot of these pieces that have had bad repairs and had to be reversed. A real good video. Thanks. Carol from California
Keep posting bad furniture repairs 🙌🏻 the reversing of the bad repairs of the past was gut wrenching and is always so 🤦🏻♂️ but as usual the end result is awesome
You are the man! You had my heart racing during the last part of the assembly. Totally made me laugh out loud to type that sentence but it's true. That was just wonderful. Thank you. I love that chair too. Sort of reminded me of sitting down at the table for a peanut butter sandwich in 1972
As always, superb. This isn't furniture repair. This is art. Do you ever encounter any bad furniture designs? I have a set of dining room chairs that I dug out nails and cleaned out the mortises, but I'm sure that it's going to go back together without nails.
I’m not a professional at repairing furniture. I just like to tinker. I am so grateful for you videos so I know exactly what not to do and how to do I right.
@FixingFurniture thanks for the lesson. You have a lot of patience. Not a single swear word...impressive and professional! This is why I keep watching you professor Scott. I keep hearing people say how hard it is to remove polyurethane glue. So I just googled it since your video is 2 years old now, I thought perhaps they discovered a way by now. According to research if you soak it in denatured alcohol or acetone will work. If I soak a cloth in it to hold it in place...will that also damage paint or varnish? I know the acetone will since I use it for nail polish removal. But what about the alcohol?
Scott, I must say how very impressed I am with your videos, your “Canadian sensibilities” and your genuine kindness and honesty that comes across. I honestly believe that we are here on earth to share our experiences with others, and through that, we grow as individuals. You exemplify that. Bravo! Bruce
I recently found your channel and have appreciated the content. Two questions…first, why did you trim the nails instead of knocking them out once the bottom was exposed, and second, how do you decide to use PVA over hide glue? Thanks!
Good questions. Regarding the nails, it's faster and potentially less damaging for me to cut off brad nails rather than pull them out. To learn about the differences in glue, here's a video with details on that th-cam.com/video/qK0IR8WT_jE/w-d-xo.html
Another great video Scott, great tips on paint touch ups. on those stubborn nails I have used a plug cutter bit, drilling around the nail head enough to clear out enough to get a "bite" on the nail head. thanks for another great tutorial I always come away learning something new. Thanks for sharing.ECF>
That's a great tip Ellis. Thank you for sharing that. I'm building a network of furniture repair businesses. If you're running a business, let's connect. Scott woodenitbenice.ca
@@FixingFurniture It's really the best way for people who don't have the space to own their own tools and workshop. It's also a great way to save money by sharing tools with others. Love your videos!
I was wondering if another option to drilling out the brad nails with a drill would be to use a small hollow drill bit to drill a circle around the nail, something like what is used for making dowels, I saw some the are similar to a hole saw bit for the drill that have some with diamond coating on the ends. some of the bits look fairly small and might be small enough to only drill about the size you are attempting. my thought is that with a circular hole perhaps you could then insert a dowel or the like back into the hole instead of filling with putty or wax stick
Would having used the Dremel with a ball burr to clear material from around the nail head, been a more effective way of obtaining good bite with the wire cutters…, sufficient or at least more conducive to pulling the nail?
When I worked in the furniture industry, I would sometimes have to order parts for customers in preparation for furniture repair personnel to be dispatched to customer’s homes for service. It was always crucial to make clear to the consumer the industry standard of “RIGHT / LEFT FACING” parts over their inclination to call something right or left from their perspective of sitting on the furniture. Re: the finger joints…. I’m surprised they weren’t glued at factory. Had they been, this chair may have been quite an ordeal to get apart.
Good point about right and left notation. I don't have staff to hand furniture off to, so I use notation that makes sense to me for reassembly. I also agree with you about those corner blocks, it was a lost opportunity to build a stronger chair. Cheers. Scott
When I do chairs, I just number the parts 1,2,3,4 in a clockwise direction, stretchers and rungs are always numbered in the clockwise side, for example, the your stretcher on the right would be numbered 2 on the near side. If there is a cross piece , it is numbered 5, as is the joint it goes into. If there is more than one stretcher, the top one is labeled 2' and the bottom one 2, etc. It always seemed redundant to me to label a stretcher Left front and left back, for example, each piece only needs one label with my method. Oh, and I work on theater sets and they get labeled "stage right and stage left" unlike furniture "left side facing".
I realize this video is over 1yr old, but I have a question. What size forstner bit do you normally come across in your rebuilds? I have a chair that appears to be about 53/64" or approx . 828" if I recall correctly. In metric it's around 20-21mm.
I own 3 Veritas spoke shaves and I enjoy using them with the adjustment wheels on either side. To be honest though, I haven't owned any others to compare them to... I needed these tools and bought from one of my favourite stores, Lee Valley Tools. Cheers. Scott 🇨🇦
Paul Sellers - and I - use the aluminium sash cramps you suggest we ditch. You can glue wooden blocks to the surface of each vice jaw to minimise the bruising of the wood. Also, as PVA works by being forced into the fibres of the wood where it gets absorbed and evaporates, I wonder if the cramps you use provide enough pressure for this to happen.
I've used a few screw extractors over the years, and they're all to large for brad nails, even the #5. Perhaps on larger nails where there's enough metal to tap into.
It makes me 'Spit', when I see someone has used nails. I'm fortunate that I have managed to find some tiny hole saws. 1/4, 5/8, 10mm, so I can drill over the nail or screw to create the relief you suggest. It makes life much easer, then I plug with a dowel. So far, my repairs have been on stained or clear finish, but I think I should invest in a paint kit similar to yours. Thanks Scott
Using a chisel near a piece of metal like that nail puts the chisel at risk of being damaged. The drill is faster and what I consider to be the right tool for the job. Cheers. Scott
It's hard to see from the video but looked like there might have been enough room around the nail to get a vice-grip over it.... I have really good luck with that! Also,, a red-weight rubber mallet can be of value when a regular rubber mallet doesn't work... thanks for a great video!!
Do you have a link for that small paint scraper you used? Excellent repair video BTW. I did notice one slight boo-boo when labeling the parts, but it looks like you corrected it off camera. :)
I recently purchased a mini cat's paw but haven't had a piece to try it out on yet. I have to wait for that next piece to come into the workshop with brad nails in it. Cheers. Scott
Nicely made video. However as someone who has been playing the same game for 46 years I would not dismiss any sort of clamp. I have lots of different ones in my workshop. Firstly it is easy to make cork pads to protect the work for any clamp . Secondly trigger clamps often fail to produce a controlled clamping pressure due to slight spring back on the final squeeze. Where as screw clamps can produce very controlled clamping pressure. On reflection I think the Klemmsia cam clamps are the ones I use the most. I also use the simple Spanish windlass on awkward shapes
This labelling works for me Carl, but you can use a different notation on the masking tape that works of you. In woodworking, there are many ways to do things. Cheers. Scott.
@@FixingFurniture the labeling is a good idea, not faulting the system. I use punch stamps for my labeling. My initial comment was pointing out you labeled "back left" twice on corner blocks. You have two back lefts. You mis-labeled and mis-stated it in the video and missed it again when I mentioned it. I didnt watch all the way to re-assembly so I assume you caught it at that point. In any event they are just corner blocks and were likely a universal fit, (with possible exception of the screw hole alignment to the seat bottom).
Vinegar also loosens hide glue and common carpenter and Elmer glue. Clean with ss wire brush. Strippers are the only way to dissolve gorilla glue if you dare. KB
Carpenters glue is strong. Years ago (50+) when we played road hockey and hockey sticks were all wood, when one stick broke I would repair it with carpenters glue and clamps. If that stick broke again, it was always in a different spot.
I occasionally work on wood and to prevent the damages like 12:50, I remove nails by drilling from the opposite side of possible.. most of the time it's the best way to reach the without damaging the wood. Backdoor entry is sometimes good for us.
I used to repair church organs, you'd quite often find a tarnished screw in a hundred year old bit of oak. A soldering iron held onto the screw head would regularly do the trick. Also dip the screw in tallow before replacing it, for easier removal next time. 🏴
What a dreadful mess you had to re-repair! A dreadful paint job too. So sad, that would have been a lovely chair, had you been allowed to finish it in your usual meticulous way. As it is, you did a cracking job as far as you could, within the parameters of what the customer wanted.
When pulling out the nail use a fulcrum to enhance the angle. Why do you only glue the male, female bits and not the rest of the contct area? Excuse my terminology!
I've always found a small cat's paw pry bar useful for digging out the head of a stubbornly-embedded nail. The curved bottom allows the nail-pulling groove to scoop down into the wood on either side of the head, and there's usually a striking surface for a hammer back behind the working end, to drive it in and help that scooping. Then either the curved bottom surface of the cat's paw can leverage it free, or else nail-puller pliers with a curved bottom surface, or curved rocker standing off one side, will extract it with no problem. Another option is a combo nail puller pliers with angled handles and the striking surface of a cat's paw, such as the Nail Hunter pliers by Lee Valley. All great options to make nail extraction easy, and eliminate the need to break the joint.
@@FixingFurniture please dont change!! And dont introduce any anoying background music either! Your videos are great as they are snd very informative. I have learned so much from you and the others on TH-cam. Best of all, I have learned what NOT to do
It's sad you didn't punch those nails out from the inside, so now 30 years from now when the next person has to fix it, he might assume the nails are still in the tenon and try to dig them out.
I don't agree with your technique this time. Why Don't you try to remove the nails by hitting the tip rather than cutting it? Regarding PU glue, it is perfectly suitable for tenons. You just have to clean them well and apply glue everywhere. PVA glue does not stick well if there is not good pressure and if the fibers of the wood cross. For tenons nothing better than hard glue or PU glue because of the gap you could have on old furniture.
over all not to bad of video your nail removal method was very crude there are alot better ways of removing those stupid nails I took as many as 50 nails out of a very old chair
Hi Ed. I'd love to hear about your nail removing techniques. You can respond to this comment or you can reach me from our website woodenitbenice.ca Thanks. Scott
After watching most of your videos and those of Thomas Johnson, I took on a client's piece of furniture with "most of the time" confidence. I was not only able to disassemble the piece while tagging all the parts, cleaning the joints, but repair the splits and breaks even to replacing a piece of wood that had broken off. Light cleaning and sanding, some recoloring (TransTint) and regluing and the client was amazed I was such a genius. I replied that I had a good bit of help from some experts and mentors. Thanks for all you have shown as I will continue to keep watching.
That's awesome David! What a success story for both you and your client. Well done! Thank you for sharing that. Scott #success
I love your story David.
Thomas Johnson does a great job with his videos too!!
@fixingfurniture It's a pretty little chair. Btw I have clamp envy...lol. yours are way better. Thanks for the lesson
It looks like the PU glue stuck better on the outside of the legs than inside the joints!
One trick, if I may: for a colour like that, it is always adding the yellow into the white, to raise the white, it is almost impossible to add enough white to the yellow: as you show it, you ended up adding a lot of white. I learned that the hard way during my youth, tryng to colour match the blue of the tiles in the bathroom to hide a chipping. After defeat, I had to admit that my dad was right :)
That's an awesome tip Oliver! Thank you for sharing that with me and other subscribers. It should save me some time in the future. Scott #tip
Great job on a bad repair.
Thank you Dave! Scott
Upholsterers have a tack lifter to pull nails out of wood, so you don't damage the wood that much. Or you can cut out a V shape out of an old narrow chisel, that is also possible.
Had a chair repair side business for a while. I hated when people nailed their chairs, as it would almost always end up like the one in this video. Even worse were nails in stretchers. Clients were always wondering why a $20 job turned into a $60 job. Nice job on the color matching.
Thanks for sharing that. Thank you as well for subscribing! Scott
I've been having trouble with some cheap wooden chairs which in my ignorance I'd "repaired" using screws instead of taking them apart & glueing them.
Thanks to your videos I've had the confidence to attack the job anew, with knowledge of which glues are best for which jobs. Today I purchased some good PVA glue with an easy applicator, a pair of 450 mm quick action trigger clamps and some two-part epoxy adhesive for filling gaps made by time & movement.
The clamps are just the right length to clamp the legs to the seat base. Once these adhesives have cured I can tackle the chair-backs which show little evidence of having been glued at all.
Scott: this sweet chair was a mess. You did such a nice job of repairing it. Believe me, I have seen at lot of these pieces that have had bad repairs and had to be reversed.
A real good video. Thanks. Carol from California
Glad you enjoyed it Carol. Thanks for sharing that.
Thank you for sharing this with everyone, BCS nails are a chair greatest enemy,and thank you for sharing what type of glue to use
Regards 🎉
Keep posting bad furniture repairs 🙌🏻 the reversing of the bad repairs of the past was gut wrenching and is always so 🤦🏻♂️ but as usual the end result is awesome
sometimes I use a putty knife under the side cutters to remove nails, wood gives at times just enough to make the difference, very nice work
Thanks for the tip Pete! That's helpful. Scott #tip
Hi,
You might have a look at pz-58 GT neji-sauraus grips. Absolutely brilliant for removing nails.
Cool, thanks. I found them on Amazon and just ordered one. I look forward to trying them out. Scott #tip
Love the technique.
Very nice work! I am learning so much that will enable me to be creative with broken worthless chairs. Thank you!
That's great to hear! Thanks for sharing that Sylvie. Cheers. Scott
You are the man! You had my heart racing during the last part of the assembly. Totally made me laugh out loud to type that sentence but it's true. That was just wonderful. Thank you. I love that chair too. Sort of reminded me of sitting down at the table for a peanut butter sandwich in 1972
I so appreciate your careful attention to detail and your specific and thorough instruction! I’m excited to try my hand at a (simple) project.
P.S. plug cutter bit good if nail is not at angle. ECF
Yes, that makes sense. Thanks again for the #tip
As always, superb. This isn't furniture repair. This is art. Do you ever encounter any bad furniture designs? I have a set of dining room chairs that I dug out nails and cleaned out the mortises, but I'm sure that it's going to go back together without nails.
I’m not a professional at repairing furniture. I just like to tinker. I am so grateful for you videos so I know exactly what not to do and how to do I right.
Very interesting video Scott
Glad you think so! Cheers
Very helpful!
Great video, thanks for sharing! I appreciate the adhesive advice!!
Nice work
Thank you! Cheers! Scott 🇨🇦
Hello you are very good Maestro you are an artist
@FixingFurniture thanks for the lesson. You have a lot of patience. Not a single swear word...impressive and professional! This is why I keep watching you professor Scott.
I keep hearing people say how hard it is to remove polyurethane glue. So I just googled it since your video is 2 years old now, I thought perhaps they discovered a way by now. According to research if you soak it in denatured alcohol or acetone will work.
If I soak a cloth in it to hold it in place...will that also damage paint or varnish? I know the acetone will since I use it for nail polish removal. But what about the alcohol?
Scott, I must say how very impressed I am with your videos, your “Canadian sensibilities” and your genuine kindness and honesty that comes across. I honestly believe that we are here on earth to share our experiences with others, and through that, we grow as individuals. You exemplify that.
Bravo!
Bruce
That's kind of you Bruce. Thank you!
I love watching you work. You provide all the right information at just the right pace for a novice to keep up. Great job. I'm from the U.S..
I feel like you’d be good to have in a stressful situation 😂 The Bob Ross of woodworking! (Without the squirrels obviously. and afro.)
Lol, that's funny! Scott
Lol I commented on another video earlier saying this was like watching Bob Ross. It's so relaxing
Thanks for sharing!
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
I have table small 2 feet wide need piece missing I love to know how close to Greensboro NC
Hi Mary. I'm in the Greater Toronto Area in Canada. I suggest reaching out to Tom Johnson in Gorham, Maine. See www.thomasjohnsonrestoration.com
I recently found your channel and have appreciated the content. Two questions…first, why did you trim the nails instead of knocking them out once the bottom was exposed, and second, how do you decide to use PVA over hide glue? Thanks!
Good questions. Regarding the nails, it's faster and potentially less damaging for me to cut off brad nails rather than pull them out. To learn about the differences in glue, here's a video with details on that th-cam.com/video/qK0IR8WT_jE/w-d-xo.html
Very good instructions and tips. I've been fixing furniture for most of my life it seems and I learned some new things from your video. Thank you!!
As always packed with a wealth of info. Thank you very much. 🇿🇦
You're welcome Hendrik! Scott 🇨🇦
Another great video Scott, great tips on paint touch ups. on those stubborn nails I have used a plug cutter bit, drilling around the nail head enough to clear out enough to get a "bite" on the nail head. thanks for another great tutorial I always come away learning something new. Thanks for sharing.ECF>
That's a great tip Ellis. Thank you for sharing that. I'm building a network of furniture repair businesses. If you're running a business, let's connect. Scott woodenitbenice.ca
Very informative. I love reconstruction and repair.
Oh no! Two back lefts?! Good thing we are in good hands :)
Yay for the Tool Library!!
Yeah, it's a great idea to make tools accessible. Scott
@@FixingFurniture It's really the best way for people who don't have the space to own their own tools and workshop. It's also a great way to save money by sharing tools with others. Love your videos!
Greetings from the BIG SKY.
Curious as to why PVA versus Hide glue ???
I had the same question. In previous episodes it was mentioned to use hide glue in joints to make it easier on future repairs.
I was wondering if another option to drilling out the brad nails with a drill would be to use a small hollow drill bit to drill a circle around the nail, something like what is used for making dowels, I saw some the are similar to a hole saw bit for the drill that have some with diamond coating on the ends. some of the bits look fairly small and might be small enough to only drill about the size you are attempting. my thought is that with a circular hole perhaps you could then insert a dowel or the like back into the hole instead of filling with putty or wax stick
Would having used the Dremel with a ball burr to clear material from around the nail head, been a more effective way of obtaining good bite with the wire cutters…, sufficient or at least more conducive to pulling the nail?
Thank you for the knowledge! I have a question about clamping. How do you clamp a curved wooden attachment to a straight leg?
If using hide glue (on a piece previously glued with hide glue) do you still need to clean off the old glue from the joints? Thank you!
no hide glue reactivates hide glue
When I worked in the furniture industry, I would sometimes have to order parts for customers in preparation for furniture repair personnel to be dispatched to customer’s homes for service. It was always crucial to make clear to the consumer the industry standard of “RIGHT / LEFT FACING” parts over their inclination to call something right or left from their perspective of sitting on the furniture.
Re: the finger joints…. I’m surprised they weren’t glued at factory. Had they been, this chair may have been quite an ordeal to get apart.
Good point about right and left notation. I don't have staff to hand furniture off to, so I use notation that makes sense to me for reassembly. I also agree with you about those corner blocks, it was a lost opportunity to build a stronger chair. Cheers. Scott
When I do chairs, I just number the parts 1,2,3,4 in a clockwise direction, stretchers and rungs are always numbered in the clockwise side, for example, the your stretcher on the right would be numbered 2 on the near side. If there is a cross piece , it is numbered 5, as is the joint it goes into. If there is more than one stretcher, the top one is labeled 2' and the bottom one 2, etc. It always seemed redundant to me to label a stretcher Left front and left back, for example, each piece only needs one label with my method.
Oh, and I work on theater sets and they get labeled "stage right and stage left" unlike furniture "left side facing".
I realize this video is over 1yr old, but I have a question. What size forstner bit do you normally come across in your rebuilds? I have a chair that appears to be about 53/64" or approx . 828" if I recall correctly. In metric it's around 20-21mm.
Love your videos , it helps a lot .👍
I wanna ask you about the set of veritas spoke shave u have , ist worth it to purchase or not ???!
I own 3 Veritas spoke shaves and I enjoy using them with the adjustment wheels on either side. To be honest though, I haven't owned any others to compare them to... I needed these tools and bought from one of my favourite stores, Lee Valley Tools. Cheers. Scott 🇨🇦
@@FixingFurniture Already waiting them on my mail , hopping worth it!!!
@@athmostafa2462 Awesome!
Paul Sellers - and I - use the aluminium sash cramps you suggest we ditch. You can glue wooden blocks to the surface of each vice jaw to minimise the bruising of the wood. Also, as PVA works by being forced into the fibres of the wood where it gets absorbed and evaporates, I wonder if the cramps you use provide enough pressure for this to happen.
Screw extractor works great for nails too.
I've used a few screw extractors over the years, and they're all to large for brad nails, even the #5. Perhaps on larger nails where there's enough metal to tap into.
It makes me 'Spit', when I see someone has used nails. I'm fortunate that I have managed to find some tiny hole saws. 1/4, 5/8, 10mm, so I can drill over the nail or screw to create the relief you suggest. It makes life much easer, then I plug with a dowel. So far, my repairs have been on stained or clear finish, but I think I should invest in a paint kit similar to yours. Thanks Scott
That's an interesting solution Peter. I'll have to check out some mini hole saws. Thanks for sharing that #tip
8:58 why use drill why not chisel ?
Using a chisel near a piece of metal like that nail puts the chisel at risk of being damaged. The drill is faster and what I consider to be the right tool for the job. Cheers. Scott
It's hard to see from the video but looked like there might have been enough room around the nail to get a vice-grip over it.... I have really good luck with that! Also,, a red-weight rubber mallet can be of value when a regular rubber mallet doesn't work... thanks for a great video!!
Do you have a link for that small paint scraper you used? Excellent repair video BTW. I did notice one slight boo-boo when labeling the parts, but it looks like you corrected it off camera. :)
You have an eye for detail! I don't think they make my paint scraper anymore. Here's a link to a 1" scraper that may work for you amzn.to/3SIVd5R
@@FixingFurniture - Thanks! Yeah, saw that scraper on Amazon... I suppose it'll have to do! :)
would a cat's paw help pulling those brad nails out?
thank you!
I recently purchased a mini cat's paw but haven't had a piece to try it out on yet. I have to wait for that next piece to come into the workshop with brad nails in it. Cheers. Scott
Nicely made video. However as someone who has been playing the same game for 46 years I would not dismiss any sort of clamp. I have lots of different ones in my workshop. Firstly it is easy to make cork pads to protect the work for any clamp . Secondly trigger clamps often fail to produce a controlled clamping pressure due to slight spring back on the final squeeze. Where as screw clamps can produce very controlled clamping pressure. On reflection I think the Klemmsia cam clamps are the ones I use the most. I also use the simple Spanish windlass on awkward shapes
Back left and again back left corner blocks. Might get confusing at re-assembly.
This labelling works for me Carl, but you can use a different notation on the masking tape that works of you. In woodworking, there are many ways to do things. Cheers. Scott.
@@FixingFurniture the labeling is a good idea, not faulting the system. I use punch stamps for my labeling. My initial comment was pointing out you labeled "back left" twice on corner blocks. You have two back lefts. You mis-labeled and mis-stated it in the video and missed it again when I mentioned it. I didnt watch all the way to re-assembly so I assume you caught it at that point. In any event they are just corner blocks and were likely a universal fit, (with possible exception of the screw hole alignment to the seat bottom).
Why did you use PVA glue to glue the joints back?.. shouldn't you use hyde glue so it could be reversed?
Youreally know your stuff. If only I could remember a quarter of it when I'm out in the field.
It comes with practice... I find the more you use the knowledge, the easier it is to retain it and improve on it. Thanks for watching! Scott
Vinegar also loosens hide glue and common carpenter and Elmer glue. Clean with ss wire brush. Strippers are the only way to dissolve gorilla glue if you dare. KB
Instead of clamps I have used ratchet straps when I have glued doors and furniture
Carpenters glue is strong. Years ago (50+) when we played road hockey and hockey sticks were all wood, when one stick broke I would repair it with carpenters glue and clamps. If that stick broke again, it was always in a different spot.
What a great example of the strength of glue Anthony! Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Can someone tell me the rate $ for a furniture repairman here in nyc?
I occasionally work on wood and to prevent the damages like 12:50, I remove nails by drilling from the opposite side of possible.. most of the time it's the best way to reach the without damaging the wood. Backdoor entry is sometimes good for us.
Wouldn't you consider to use a soldering iron on those nails? It may dilate while hot and shrink after cooling. It MIGHT work.
That's an interesting idea Marcelo. I will have to try that next time to see if it lessens up the brad nail. Thank you for sharing that #tip
@@FixingFurniture I had success cases and failures ones. I learned that on a book from Time/Life: "The Art Of Woodworking - Restoring Antiques".
I used to repair church organs, you'd quite often find a tarnished screw in a hundred year old bit of oak. A soldering iron held onto the screw head would regularly do the trick. Also dip the screw in tallow before replacing it, for easier removal next time. 🏴
I found the page and sent it via Instagram.
I think a brad-awl would have been better for that making space to remove the nail work.
the plyers are to klip your nails not a finishing nail
What a dreadful mess you had to re-repair! A dreadful paint job too. So sad, that would have been a lovely chair, had you been allowed to finish it in your usual meticulous way. As it is, you did a cracking job as far as you could, within the parameters of what the customer wanted.
Thank you Liz! Scott
When pulling out the nail use a fulcrum to enhance the angle. Why do you only glue the male, female bits and not the rest of the contct area? Excuse my terminology!
I've always found a small cat's paw pry bar useful for digging out the head of a stubbornly-embedded nail. The curved bottom allows the nail-pulling groove to scoop down into the wood on either side of the head, and there's usually a striking surface for a hammer back behind the working end, to drive it in and help that scooping. Then either the curved bottom surface of the cat's paw can leverage it free, or else nail-puller pliers with a curved bottom surface, or curved rocker standing off one side, will extract it with no problem. Another option is a combo nail puller pliers with angled handles and the striking surface of a cat's paw, such as the Nail Hunter pliers by Lee Valley. All great options to make nail extraction easy, and eliminate the need to break the joint.
"Someone else repaired it" de-coded: "I repaired it"
Uncle Jerry, no, you can’t borrow any of my clamps…
ya!, give it to those gorilla glue marketers. lol
That makes two BL, :)
Acetone will dissolve poly glue, if you need to.
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Yuck I get a lot of broken furniture that people have tried fixing it with gorilla glue expanding glue then I have to clean their mess
Hi Anthony. I'm building a network of furniture repair businesses. If you're running a business, let's connect. Scott woodenitbenice.ca
Love the video content and your explanations as always, just not a fan of the intro.
Glad you're liking the videos. I'd love to hear your suggestions on improving the intro. What would you like to see? Thank you. Scott 🇨🇦
@@FixingFurniture please dont change!! And dont introduce any anoying background music either! Your videos are great as they are snd very informative. I have learned so much from you and the others on TH-cam. Best of all, I have learned what NOT to do
My overly detail attentive self wait till you see that you marked 2 bl for the corner bracing 🤔😂
Oh, did I make a mistake marking the parts? I didn't notice. Cheers
@@FixingFurniture yeah it didn't end up mattering because the corner piece stayed attached but once I saw it I could not stop 😂😂
It's sad you didn't punch those nails out from the inside, so now 30 years from now when the next person has to fix it, he might assume the nails are still in the tenon and try to dig them out.
Never borrow tools
A piece of steel tubing with some teeth in a drill could give you room
Too many "Back lefts."
you advocate the use of enough glue but I believe that you use too little glue in all of your repairs.
I've love to hear more about your thoughts on why you think there's too little glue. Tell me more. Thanks. Scott
I don't agree with your technique this time. Why Don't you try to remove the nails by hitting the tip rather than cutting it?
Regarding PU glue, it is perfectly suitable for tenons. You just have to clean them well and apply glue everywhere.
PVA glue does not stick well if there is not good pressure and if the fibers of the wood cross.
For tenons nothing better than hard glue or PU glue because of the gap you could have on old furniture.
over all not to bad of video your nail removal method was very crude there are alot better ways of removing those stupid nails I took as many as 50 nails out of a very old chair
Hi Ed. I'd love to hear about your nail removing techniques. You can respond to this comment or you can reach me from our website woodenitbenice.ca Thanks. Scott
Lasted 2 mins , more content and less talking please.