@@EmericTimelapse is there a way to do hdr timelapses? Like use AEB AND a timelapse interval? I feel like it'd be doable if you had 6 or 7 seconds interval.
Recommend changing shutter speed first and then ISO if you need to - would never change aperture once started. That is what I have learned over the years anyway and works for me when ramping.
Changing aperture is completely fine if you do it 2 or 3 times max, never had any issues in 7 years shooting day to night :) But yes Shutter speed first and ISO last.
Did you leave your polarizing filter on even into the night, or did you remove it at some point? although it would shift colour and create a big exposure adjustment to compensate for.would it not?
thanks for the sharing / good tutorial👍 If the shots are not taken at wide open aperture, will the possible slight variance in stop down aperture for each shot affect the exposure and lead to flickering? I am using Nikon D850 and note that the aperture will be kept at the selected F-stop during shooting in the interval shooting mode with “silent photography” option selected (i.e. use electronic shutter instead). So the aperture, even stopped down, will not vary among shots. Will this approach (using electronic shutter) be good for timelapse? Thanks.
Hey emeric! I've been doing timelapse and some hyperlapses for a few years now. I see you're using an external intervalometer. when i first started timelapses, I had a Canon T3i so I had to buy an external intervalometer but now I have the Sony A7iii which has one built in. Does it matter too much if I use the one built in camera vs what you are using? Also I love working with Manual but is there any CONS working with Aperture Priority?
I have been re-watching your videos and I am a bit confused by your setup. I have a Canon 5DsR camera and when I set it for Timelapse, I can not go to live view once the setup is running. In your video, you flip between the Menu/Info and Live View. How can you do this?
Hi Emeric, Thanks for the wonderful instructional video. You started with a shutter speed of 125th, and ended with 4 seconds. That's a considerable difference. Images taken with a fast shutter speed will convey far less movement than those taken with a longer shutter speed, correct? Oddly enough, when I view the final result, I don't see much/any variation. Why is that? Kind regards, Mark
Probably because I’m pretty far away from my subject, so hard to see the difference between the different shutter speed. I’m sure if we zoom in, cars would look like light trails!
Can we set the camera with auto adjustment for ISO + aperture while the lights are changing from day to night? So we just push the shutter only once and let the camera keep shooting straight up till the end of the time setting ...
Never liked qDslr, never worked really well with Canon, at least mines lol Shooting M mode is super easy and does not require to use my phone or any iPad on the side.
By far the most informative vid for holiygrail by urself... is lrtpro3(a bit expensive) the only one not using af signal??? Merci encore pour ces conseils precieux
Why can I not access my Canon R6 Mark II camera menu nor quick menu while in timelapse mode? I shoot with the same settings as you (Photo mode, Manual mode, etc.) but the menu is blocked. Why is it?
Looks like a typical issue with a built-in intervalometer. You would need to purchase an external one in order to have more control during the timelapse and see the menu.
Hi Emeric! Great video! I'm wondering why you say variable nd would not be an option. If I want to prioritze smooth motion blur starting with a slow shutter speed even at day (for example because there's traffic trails in my shot), isn't that kind of the only option left? Given that I don't want to touch aperture too much either of course.
I don’t get it - as you are changing your shutter speed your interval is staying the same ? Soon your shutter speed will be longer than the interval . How do I change the intervalometer in magic lantern while in the middle of a time lapse ?
There is a simple solution for this, don't make you shutter speed slower than your interval haha that's it. With a 7" interval you can easily go to 6" shutter, and with the aperture and ISO ramping, it will be enough for 99% of the day to night timelapse you shot. Interval stays the same, just don't go over it.
@@EmericTimelapse ok But I want my time lapse to go from sunset into a Astro time lapse . I’ll be in pitch black light where I want to do this . Even though I’ll be opening the aperature to 2.8 I’ll have to extend my shutter speed to about 10-15 seconds to let in enough light to capture the Astro part of my time lapse . So this will Exceed the interval I started with - here must be a way of adjusting the intervalometer too without affecting the time lapse ?
You need to do an interval ramping then yes if you want to start with a short interval and adjust it for the Astro settings. Tools like LRTimelapse Pro Timer 3 can ramp the interval automatically on a specific duration. This tutorial here is for regular day to night and not day to night Astro.
So, can I ask is the 'timelaps+' better then 'unleashed' or you just prefer it?? I very interested in the response as I know that both devices coast about the same amount $.
Because you cannot use a ND filter during the night. You could potentially use a variable ND filter, but that’s it. of course you can use a ND filter during the day, but this is a day to night tutorial.
@@michaelfinn4862 I can't afford that. Gunther did have a recommended intervalometer on his site but it's very difficult to come by. I'll keep looking. Thanks
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Watch my Timelapse Classes www.emerictimelapse.com/courses
This video is money. A fantastic overview with all the pieces of the puzzle in one 10 minute video. Thanks, Emeric.
Great tutorial! Thank you! Also beautiful drone shots & music
Thank you!
@@EmericTimelapse is there a way to do hdr timelapses? Like use AEB AND a timelapse interval? I feel like it'd be doable if you had 6 or 7 seconds interval.
Beautiful presentation and ver useful information shared
Thanks for watching!
Recommend changing shutter speed first and then ISO if you need to - would never change aperture once started. That is what I have learned over the years anyway and works for me when ramping.
Changing aperture is completely fine if you do it 2 or 3 times max, never had any issues in 7 years shooting day to night :) But yes Shutter speed first and ISO last.
J'aime beaucoup tes vlogs, ne change rien ! 👌😊
Merci ça fait plaisir :)
Super, merci!
Thanks.
Class, love it! Nothing worse than trying to remove dust and birds in post 😅
Yup, we all know it too well!
Did you leave your polarizing filter on even into the night, or did you remove it at some point? although it would shift colour and create a big exposure adjustment to compensate for.would it not?
Yeah I left the polarizer on for the entire duration of the timelapse, even at night!
hey nice video!
what about the 180 shutter rule?
thanks for the sharing / good tutorial👍 If the shots are not taken at wide open aperture, will the possible slight variance in stop down aperture for each shot affect the exposure and lead to flickering? I am using Nikon D850 and note that the aperture will be kept at the selected F-stop during shooting in the interval shooting mode with “silent photography” option selected (i.e. use electronic shutter instead). So the aperture, even stopped down, will not vary among shots. Will this approach (using electronic shutter) be good for timelapse? Thanks.
Rather than touching the camera, why not control the manual exposure settings using an app in phone or tablet?
Do you ever use the internal intervalometer? I've been using it more lately and like it's ease of use.
Now I know why you moved back to LA, clear skys. Lovely, thanks. Did you remove the satellites from the sky, or where they just to dim to show up?
We can't see satellites in the city, but I did remove the planes during the day yes!
Hey emeric! I've been doing timelapse and some hyperlapses for a few years now. I see you're using an external intervalometer.
when i first started timelapses, I had a Canon T3i so I had to buy an external intervalometer but now I have the Sony A7iii which has one built in. Does it matter too much if I use the one built in camera vs what you are using?
Also I love working with Manual but is there any CONS working with Aperture Priority?
I have been re-watching your videos and I am a bit confused by your setup. I have a Canon 5DsR camera and when I set it for Timelapse, I can not go to live view once the setup is running. In your video, you flip between the Menu/Info and Live View. How can you do this?
I use an external intervalometer. I never shoot with the built-in timelapse mode of my camera. In the video, I use the Pro Timer 3!
@@EmericTimelapse Now it makes sense. Thanks.
@@EmericTimelapse Do you program the camera in any different way when you use the intervelometer or is it setup like for normal use?
No just the regular way! The intervalometer just triggers the camera.
Hi Emeric,
Thanks for the wonderful instructional video. You started with a shutter speed of 125th, and ended with 4 seconds. That's a considerable difference. Images taken with a fast shutter speed will convey far less movement than those taken with a longer shutter speed, correct? Oddly enough, when I view the final result, I don't see much/any variation. Why is that?
Kind regards, Mark
Probably because I’m pretty far away from my subject, so hard to see the difference between the different shutter speed. I’m sure if we zoom in, cars would look like light trails!
Can we set the camera with auto adjustment for ISO + aperture while the lights are changing from day to night? So we just push the shutter only once and let the camera keep shooting straight up till the end of the time setting ...
Nice video as always :-) Why did you go for ramping manually ? In your opinion better than to use qDslrDashboard?
Never liked qDslr, never worked really well with Canon, at least mines lol Shooting M mode is super easy and does not require to use my phone or any iPad on the side.
By far the most informative vid for holiygrail by urself... is lrtpro3(a bit expensive) the only one not using af signal??? Merci encore pour ces conseils precieux
Thank you! At the moment that's the only one I know without AF signal.
What roller bag are ya using here, Emeric?
You can find all my gear on my website here emerictimelapse.com/my-gear
Why can I not access my Canon R6 Mark II camera menu nor quick menu while in timelapse mode? I shoot with the same settings as you (Photo mode, Manual mode, etc.) but the menu is blocked. Why is it?
Looks like a typical issue with a built-in intervalometer. You would need to purchase an external one in order to have more control during the timelapse and see the menu.
Hi Emeric! Great video!
I'm wondering why you say variable nd would not be an option. If I want to prioritze smooth motion blur starting with a slow shutter speed even at day (for example because there's traffic trails in my shot), isn't that kind of the only option left? Given that I don't want to touch aperture too much either of course.
Yeah variable ND can work!
Ey! Very nice video Thx. One question, don't you also modify the white balance while you are doing a day-to-night timelapse?
No need to change the white balance during the shoot since we are shooting raw. We can change it on Lightroom!
@@EmericTimelapse by batches bro? I mean, how and when do you decide to apply different temperature using just lightroom? Do you know what I mean?
Please watch next video on Friday, it’s the entire workflow!
I don’t get it - as you are changing your shutter speed your interval is staying the same ? Soon your shutter speed will be longer than the interval . How do I change the intervalometer in magic lantern while in the middle of a time lapse ?
There is a simple solution for this, don't make you shutter speed slower than your interval haha that's it. With a 7" interval you can easily go to 6" shutter, and with the aperture and ISO ramping, it will be enough for 99% of the day to night timelapse you shot. Interval stays the same, just don't go over it.
@@EmericTimelapse ok
But I want my time lapse to go from sunset into a Astro time lapse . I’ll be in pitch black light where I want to do this . Even though I’ll be opening the aperature to 2.8 I’ll have to extend my shutter speed to about 10-15 seconds to let in enough light to capture the Astro part of my time lapse . So this will
Exceed the interval I started with - here must be a way of adjusting the intervalometer too without affecting the time lapse ?
You need to do an interval ramping then yes if you want to start with a short interval and adjust it for the Astro settings. Tools like LRTimelapse Pro Timer 3 can ramp the interval automatically on a specific duration. This tutorial here is for regular day to night and not day to night Astro.
So, can I ask is the 'timelaps+' better then 'unleashed' or you just prefer it?? I very interested in the response as I know that both devices coast about the same amount $.
This is not the Timelapse+ View in the video but the LRTimelapse Pro Timer 3. I don’t like the View, and would use the Unleashed though.
@@EmericTimelapse so you are saying that the unleashed is a good way to go??
Definitely yes!
@@EmericTimelapse cool! Can’t wait for the version 2 to be released 👍🤛
Is there a post video coming in the future 😬
Of course, next week video :)
Looking forward to it 😀
Why you do not recommend using an ND filter?
Because you cannot use a ND filter during the night. You could potentially use a variable ND filter, but that’s it. of course you can use a ND filter during the day, but this is a day to night tutorial.
@@EmericTimelapse Thx!
can you do more drone videos, less timelapse photos. thanks
If you're in MF why would you have an AF signal?
Intervalometer usually sends an auto focus signal that blocks the camera before each shot, but not if uou literally cut this wire or use LRTimer pro
@@michaelfinn4862 I can't afford that. Gunther did have a recommended intervalometer on his site but it's very difficult to come by. I'll keep looking. Thanks
Yeah some cheaper intervalometer has an AF signal no matter what!
You wouldn't have to keep changing things ( And causing possible camera shake) If you used auto ISO.😮
Never had any camera shake issue ever shooting M mode.
Good tripods and heads and a light touch help.