I have a 2003 C5. I lived with this issue longer than I care to admit. A few years ago I finally dove in to this repair. All I can say is, "I should have done this sooner". The idiot lights have never returned. My ABS and traction control perform as intended.
Thank you for showing me which solder joints/tips needed touch up....My EBCM was not at all ratty when I opened it. It was well sealed with Silicone and difficult to get open...but I soldered the 5 points anyway....slide the cover back on it, connected the two connectors, switched the key on.........and no ABS Light or Traction Control light...Put black silicone on the notched flap cover after cleaning it off, installed the 4 screws that hold the cover in place....put it on the car with great difficulty, even loosing 1 of the 6 screws (the one in the middle on the right side when you are standing on the left side of the car). It was getting dark so I quit for the day....Went to Chevy Dealer in Prescott, Wisconsin, bought 2 screws came home and when I put the right middle screw in...it went into a hole and disappeared exactly like the first one....went and got my big magnet and put it near the middle opening and both the new screw and the original bronze color screw came out with it....whew.....I do not have to take the pump apart. Yeah....Drove the car, switched the Traction Control on and off....jammed the brakes a couple of times...antilock system worked perfectly...I saw on ebay that someone wanted $1,500 for a remanufactured EBCM, another for $1,000 and then one for $200...exchange.....I figured if the soldering did not work...I would try the $200 rebuild.....BUT IT WORKED AND THIS SAGA IS OVER!!!!! THANKS A TON. MIKE'S SERVICE
Yeah, used EBCMs or even repair services are very expensive. With a little time and patience, you can fix it yourself for about $10. It's a PITA, but it's worth $990 in savings to me.
This worked for my EBCM, but ONLY after I reheated and soldered the two longer solder tabs closer to the center of the board and just above the 5 relay solder points. Be sure to carefully check ALL solder points on that unit. Many thanks to several who have made similar videos of this relatively easy repair. Took two attempts, but works like new now. Hardest part is breaking the seal on the unit, but just keep at it. It does eventually loosen and come apart.
100% the seal on the unit is incredibly hard to break. That is the only part where I had to reach out to a mechanic that had more tools than me to help. Once you get it to begin prying up, the rest is relatively easy. Yes, I do highly suggest checking all the solder points in the unit. While the two I did are the most common, many others can fail as well. It's best while you're in there to take car of all of them as opposed to having to go in there again.
Well I'm getting the infamous c1214 code in my cadillac too. Based on my research the c5 and deville share the ebcm (the same one) so I'm going to fix the relay myself on a spare junkyard unit i got. Thanks for the video.
Very good and informative video. My 2002 Z06 had similar failure indications. The dealer thought it was the EBCM, but it had Steering Angle Sensor codes as well (C1287 and C1288). Speaking with Brandon Hite of ABS Fixers in Missouri, his educated hunch was correct - I put the car in the shop early yesterday morning to have the Steering Angle Sensor replaced, they were done by 2:30 in the afternoon. The new sensor fixed the problem. Drove it home and the console Traction Control button works normally and allows me to go into Competition Driving and all that good stuff. It toggles correctly. None of the problematic DIC indicator messages nor caution lights came on. I appreciate Mr. Hite's able assistance and being honest with me, when he could have taken advantage of me and had me send in the EBCM box. It all works now correctly.
Yeah, there are a lot of people out there who will just take advantage. I've come to endear the Corvette community because it seems that most guys are fairly honest and willing to help. I can't speak for other car communities (I had limited interaction with Lincoln, but most guys there would take their cars to the dealership) but Corvette Community is awesome. Thank you for letting me know about ABS Fixers. I had thought of sending my part to them, but wanted to try and crack it myself. Pretty difficult process looking back, but I'm glad I did it. If it happened again, I'd honestly consider sending it out to Missouri. Thanks for the views. Hope you and your family are safe and healthy at this time.
iDrive, thanks for the response. Brandon of ABS Fixers was quickly responsive, and after he read the diagnostics verbiage of my dealer, he was pretty sure it was the angle sensor and that "the EBCM should be fine." He sounds like he's not only a nice guy but also quite competent. I could not do the steering angle sensor myself - it's quite involved - I ordered the part (Chevy had it as OEM) and paid about $750 for total parts and labor. As for the EBCM, I may do that in the future as a preventative maintenance measure. Pull it and send it to ABS Fixers. Another side benefit is that Cruise Control now works. It works only with the Traction Control ON and working properly. It won't stay engaged with Traction Control / Active Handling failures. You have to turn it OFF to disable all that stuff to again enable Cruise Control operation. Seems to be a strange interlock system.
did it e x a c t l y as shown in this video on a Cadillac Seville 2004 - only thing i did additionally was to heat the whole PCB with a hairdryer to prevent any solder cracks to be missed - thank you from Germany for the GREAT demo and for sharing!!!
Nice job. Definitely going to remember this incase I ever come across the same issue. Your soldering looks good, I've seen people really burn the board up, so good job there as well.
Thanks, although I hope you never experience it. I'd say even with the few days it took me (it can be much shorter, I just took my sweet, sweet time) it was definetly worth it over what I saw some Corvette owners have paid to have the part replaced.
Thanks for making this video. But a solid 5 out of 10?! In my opinion, "this one goes to 11." And I didn't even do the repair. I sent it off to ABSfixer. But removing the module and replacing it amounts to the most heinous repair job I've ever had the misfortune to undertake. The skin on my hands and forearms is STILL healing! I came at this thing from above and underneath. The tight spaces, awkward angles, and blind spots (especially that middle T20 screw towards the front bumper) made me really regret buying this car (only had it 3 months). I lost a T20 screw, found it with my magnetic tool retriever, then lost it again into the abyss of the engine bay. God only knows if it's still in there somewhere. So my module is holding fast so far with just 5 screws. It works, and I got rid of those annoying beeps at start up and shut down, but my goodness...it's like they designed this thing thinking it would never need to be accessed for repair. I live in a condo with a shared garage. I'm thinking ownership of an older car like this should just be reserved for those who have a private garage.
The module is in a trash location and is a PITA to get to. Even looking back, it's a crap job, but I don't know that I'd rate it at anything much higher than a 7. In reality there are a lot of other projects that are more difficult than this one because in reality, this job is essentially unplugging a module, soldering it and plugging it back in. Even with the down time I've had on the car and some of the stupid repairs I've had to do, I don't regret buying the C5. I have a lot of fun driving it and learning more about mechanics as I go along. It can be frustrating at times, but that is just part of owning a car.
@@iDriveDaily Thanks for the reply. And I agree with your statement in another video, that it's a "love/hate" relationship. Mostly love, though. The car is amazing, I'm glad I bought it. And I knew buying an older car would involve skinned knuckles and colorful language. But I'm glad it's a 2nd vehicle. I think of it as a 4 wheeled motorcycle with a roof and reverse. Even if it's up on jack stands, I can still get to the auto parts store/work/grocery store with my other vehicle.
Several months ago I bought all the necessary tools to "fix" the EBCM in my 2001 Vette. The coding would not go away. Then, out of the blue, the code disappeared entirely. No history, nothing. OK I thought. I had been looking at the wires to the connector, touching them. The car was driven for two months over smooth roads and the DIC never threw a code until Saturday while caravanning with several Corvettes over a variety of textured country roads. Now, I am back where I was before. My question is: Was your soldering job successful? This intermittent problem needs to be fixed, once and for all. Thanks in advance for your reply.
I'm just a few days short of two years and I've had no issues (knock on wood) since doing the solder job. It's a PITA, but I do suggest it as a more permanent fix. It's a common fail point on the C5 Corvette. Hopefully, with a little solder, you'll have the same luck as me in two years.
I didn’t actually look at the part number, but your module appears to be identical to the one in my 2001 Cadillac STS. I just finished pulling it out, and tore it down. You’re getting off lucky with one code. I’ve got about 6, and they all funnel back to the ebcm. Tech2 shows ~.25 volts on the switched circuit with key on... so that’s just not right! Cross fingers.
Aaaaaand.... No. I guess by the time you're getting a C1255 m3 internal malfunction, there's no amount of reflow that will save it. :) Oh, and for the records - mine is a model 12218160 / 25738080
Sorry to hear you didn't have any luck. I keep hoping mine holds up, but I'm always a little worried that it may officially kick someday... Let me know what solution you come up with or if you're going to try and find a refirb/new one.
iDriveDaily - so with the C1255 internal malfunction, it seems it’s terminal. Reflowed the whole board, and no change. Hit the wreckers, and $40 Canadian pesos later it’s working.
Ha. I am not Native American (at least not enough that I'd feel comfortable claiming) but being from Philly, I belong to a mum organization. More specifically a string band. I honestly forgot that costume was hanging there as it's since moved. Thanks for the view!
That's crazy. Let me know how it turns out. There was definetly a few fixes for this problem. I figured that at some point I might have to give up and take it to a mechanic and have them chase it down. Good luck, I sure hope you can get it solved. Like I said, let me know how it turn out and what ultimately you did.
Hi iDd, I have to ck my grounds, before removing my ebcm...how many are there? My vette is a 1999 convertible A4...so no one will rebuild or solder them...97 to 01...So I need to ck other things first...thx.
There are 13 total for the car. However, I would check the majority in the engine bay itself and worry less about the others. There's 4 around the bay and 3 attached to the engine block. I only cleaned the four around the bay as they are most prone to corrosion. One is located under the battery, one behind each front headlight and the fourth is directly across from the one under the battery on the driver side. The one that is linked to the EBCM is the one underneath the battery.
@@iDriveDaily Thank you Very Much for the info...and the exact details...cool...I really hope it does the trick...the alternatives suck...for All 97 to 01 owners....thx again.
I've read a bit on the earlier C5s and they are a bit more finicky. Best of luck, should it turn out to be another problem you are able to track down, let me know.
@@iDriveDaily I was really hoping to be the resoldering job, or even less. ..but mine isn't included in that repair...It hurts the resale value if not fixed...and those are dropping like A Led Zepplin.
www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/896875-important-electrical-information-long.html That thread was specifically written by a 97-00 owner. It may lead you to more information on repairing your issue. Its been a few weeks since I read it, so In don't quite remember everything included in it.
I have a 2003 C5. I lived with this issue longer than I care to admit. A few years ago I finally dove in to this repair. All I can say is, "I should have done this sooner". The idiot lights have never returned. My ABS and traction control perform as intended.
Congratulations.
Did you notice the Corvette performed differently after the ABS module fix?
Thank you for showing me which solder joints/tips needed touch up....My EBCM was not at all ratty when I opened it. It was well sealed with Silicone and difficult to get open...but I soldered the 5 points anyway....slide the cover back on it, connected the two connectors, switched the key on.........and no ABS Light or Traction Control light...Put black silicone on the notched flap cover after cleaning it off, installed the 4 screws that hold the cover in place....put it on the car with great difficulty, even loosing 1 of the 6 screws (the one in the middle on the right side when you are standing on the left side of the car). It was getting dark so I quit for the day....Went to Chevy Dealer in Prescott, Wisconsin, bought 2 screws came home and when I put the right middle screw in...it went into a hole and disappeared exactly like the first one....went and got my big magnet and put it near the middle opening and both the new screw and the original bronze color screw came out with it....whew.....I do not have to take the pump apart. Yeah....Drove the car, switched the Traction Control on and off....jammed the brakes a couple of times...antilock system worked perfectly...I saw on ebay that someone wanted $1,500 for a remanufactured EBCM, another for $1,000 and then one for $200...exchange.....I figured if the soldering did not work...I would try the $200 rebuild.....BUT IT WORKED AND THIS SAGA IS OVER!!!!! THANKS A TON. MIKE'S SERVICE
Yeah, used EBCMs or even repair services are very expensive. With a little time and patience, you can fix it yourself for about $10. It's a PITA, but it's worth $990 in savings to me.
IDriveDaily--thanks for the fast reply. With 2 years with no coding your soldering job was a fix. Many thanks.
Glad to help
This worked for my EBCM, but ONLY after I reheated and soldered the two longer solder tabs closer to the center of the board and just above the 5 relay solder points. Be sure to carefully check ALL solder points on that unit. Many thanks to several who have made similar videos of this relatively easy repair. Took two attempts, but works like new now. Hardest part is breaking the seal on the unit, but just keep at it. It does eventually loosen and come apart.
100% the seal on the unit is incredibly hard to break. That is the only part where I had to reach out to a mechanic that had more tools than me to help. Once you get it to begin prying up, the rest is relatively easy.
Yes, I do highly suggest checking all the solder points in the unit. While the two I did are the most common, many others can fail as well. It's best while you're in there to take car of all of them as opposed to having to go in there again.
Good bit of information. Does your Corvettes EBCM still function as it should?
Same here. I did the 5 pins and the larger solder points towards the center ( they had very small visual cracks). So far so good.
Thank u for taking the time to share!
Great dude! Doing rad, and ABS next weekend.
Thank you. Best of luck on your project.
Well I'm getting the infamous c1214 code in my cadillac too. Based on my research the c5 and deville share the ebcm (the same one) so I'm going to fix the relay myself on a spare junkyard unit i got. Thanks for the video.
Very good.
Thank you very much for everything.
It was perfect.
Very good and informative video. My 2002 Z06 had similar failure indications. The dealer thought it was the EBCM, but it had Steering Angle Sensor codes as well (C1287 and C1288). Speaking with Brandon Hite of ABS Fixers in Missouri, his educated hunch was correct - I put the car in the shop early yesterday morning to have the Steering Angle Sensor replaced, they were done by 2:30 in the afternoon. The new sensor fixed the problem. Drove it home and the console Traction Control button works normally and allows me to go into Competition Driving and all that good stuff. It toggles correctly. None of the problematic DIC indicator messages nor caution lights came on.
I appreciate Mr. Hite's able assistance and being honest with me, when he could have taken advantage of me and had me send in the EBCM box. It all works now correctly.
Yeah, there are a lot of people out there who will just take advantage. I've come to endear the Corvette community because it seems that most guys are fairly honest and willing to help. I can't speak for other car communities (I had limited interaction with Lincoln, but most guys there would take their cars to the dealership) but Corvette Community is awesome. Thank you for letting me know about ABS Fixers. I had thought of sending my part to them, but wanted to try and crack it myself. Pretty difficult process looking back, but I'm glad I did it. If it happened again, I'd honestly consider sending it out to Missouri. Thanks for the views. Hope you and your family are safe and healthy at this time.
iDrive, thanks for the response. Brandon of ABS Fixers was quickly responsive, and after he read the diagnostics verbiage of my dealer, he was pretty sure it was the angle sensor and that "the EBCM should be fine." He sounds like he's not only a nice guy but also quite competent.
I could not do the steering angle sensor myself - it's quite involved - I ordered the part (Chevy had it as OEM) and paid about $750 for total parts and labor. As for the EBCM, I may do that in the future as a preventative maintenance measure. Pull it and send it to ABS Fixers.
Another side benefit is that Cruise Control now works. It works only with the Traction Control ON and working properly. It won't stay engaged with Traction Control / Active Handling failures. You have to turn it OFF to disable all that stuff to again enable Cruise Control operation. Seems to be a strange interlock system.
did it e x a c t l y as shown in this video on a Cadillac Seville 2004 - only thing i did additionally was to heat the whole PCB with a hairdryer to prevent any solder cracks to be missed - thank you from Germany for the GREAT demo and for sharing!!!
I'm glad it worked for you!
Nice job. Definitely going to remember this incase I ever come across the same issue. Your soldering looks good, I've seen people really burn the board up, so good job there as well.
Thanks, although I hope you never experience it. I'd say even with the few days it took me (it can be much shorter, I just took my sweet, sweet time) it was definetly worth it over what I saw some Corvette owners have paid to have the part replaced.
@@iDriveDaily oh man you're right about that.
Thanks for making this video. But a solid 5 out of 10?! In my opinion, "this one goes to 11." And I didn't even do the repair. I sent it off to ABSfixer. But removing the module and replacing it amounts to the most heinous repair job I've ever had the misfortune to undertake. The skin on my hands and forearms is STILL healing! I came at this thing from above and underneath. The tight spaces, awkward angles, and blind spots (especially that middle T20 screw towards the front bumper) made me really regret buying this car (only had it 3 months). I lost a T20 screw, found it with my magnetic tool retriever, then lost it again into the abyss of the engine bay. God only knows if it's still in there somewhere. So my module is holding fast so far with just 5 screws. It works, and I got rid of those annoying beeps at start up and shut down, but my goodness...it's like they designed this thing thinking it would never need to be accessed for repair. I live in a condo with a shared garage. I'm thinking ownership of an older car like this should just be reserved for those who have a private garage.
The module is in a trash location and is a PITA to get to. Even looking back, it's a crap job, but I don't know that I'd rate it at anything much higher than a 7. In reality there are a lot of other projects that are more difficult than this one because in reality, this job is essentially unplugging a module, soldering it and plugging it back in. Even with the down time I've had on the car and some of the stupid repairs I've had to do, I don't regret buying the C5. I have a lot of fun driving it and learning more about mechanics as I go along. It can be frustrating at times, but that is just part of owning a car.
@@iDriveDaily Thanks for the reply. And I agree with your statement in another video, that it's a "love/hate" relationship. Mostly love, though. The car is amazing, I'm glad I bought it. And I knew buying an older car would involve skinned knuckles and colorful language. But I'm glad it's a 2nd vehicle. I think of it as a 4 wheeled motorcycle with a roof and reverse. Even if it's up on jack stands, I can still get to the auto parts store/work/grocery store with my other vehicle.
Love the Super Mario shirt
Ha! Thanks.
Several months ago I bought all the necessary tools to "fix" the EBCM in my 2001 Vette. The coding would not go away. Then, out of the blue, the code disappeared entirely. No history, nothing. OK I thought. I had been looking at the wires to the connector, touching them. The car was driven for two months over smooth roads and the DIC never threw a code until Saturday while caravanning with several Corvettes over a variety of textured country roads. Now, I am back where I was before. My question is: Was your soldering job successful? This intermittent problem needs to be fixed, once and for all. Thanks in advance for your reply.
I'm just a few days short of two years and I've had no issues (knock on wood) since doing the solder job. It's a PITA, but I do suggest it as a more permanent fix. It's a common fail point on the C5 Corvette. Hopefully, with a little solder, you'll have the same luck as me in two years.
Finally fixed mine today. Active handling button isn't doing anything though
Hmmm. I didn't have any issues with the active handling after the fix.
Why not solder all points just in case?
I didn’t actually look at the part number, but your module appears to be identical to the one in my 2001 Cadillac STS. I just finished pulling it out, and tore it down. You’re getting off lucky with one code. I’ve got about 6, and they all funnel back to the ebcm. Tech2 shows ~.25 volts on the switched circuit with key on... so that’s just not right! Cross fingers.
Aaaaaand.... No. I guess by the time you're getting a C1255 m3 internal malfunction, there's no amount of reflow that will save it. :)
Oh, and for the records - mine is a model 12218160 / 25738080
Sorry to hear you didn't have any luck. I keep hoping mine holds up, but I'm always a little worried that it may officially kick someday... Let me know what solution you come up with or if you're going to try and find a refirb/new one.
iDriveDaily - so with the C1255 internal malfunction, it seems it’s terminal. Reflowed the whole board, and no change. Hit the wreckers, and $40 Canadian pesos later it’s working.
Great job bro!! 😎
Thank you, sir!
Is that regalia for Pow Wow dancing on the wall in the garage?
Ha. I am not Native American (at least not enough that I'd feel comfortable claiming) but being from Philly, I belong to a mum organization. More specifically a string band. I honestly forgot that costume was hanging there as it's since moved. Thanks for the view!
Is the repair still going strong ?
Yes. Haven't hay any issues since this video. Fingers crossed for many more miles. 😃
Do you connect the points, or you just tap on each point?
I assume you mean the soldering part. I essentially "tapped" each point adding new solder to ensure that they were all connected.
Wish you didn't have a pic of the vette in the graveyard... lol.
Lol. I think I have a picture of every car I've owned in that graveyard. I've always liked the aesthetic. Thanks for the view.
Do this lights on. Make the lauch go limp?
Hmm. I'm not sure.
If it makes you feel any better my master cylinder went I'm in the process of trying
How many hours would you say this took you ?
I was inexperienced at the time. 4-5 hours, a few days since I had trouble popping the module open. With experience (and not filming) I'd say 3 hours.
what year is your corvette?
just trying to figure out if this would work on my 2000
Mine is a 2002, I think they're all the same in terms of EBCM or at least for some reason I remember reading that.
I've done this repair and still get a code. I'm thinking my issue my be a steering wheel sensor.
That's crazy. Let me know how it turns out. There was definetly a few fixes for this problem. I figured that at some point I might have to give up and take it to a mechanic and have them chase it down. Good luck, I sure hope you can get it solved. Like I said, let me know how it turn out and what ultimately you did.
Did you ever solve the issue?
@@iDriveDaily I replaced the ignition switch and all my codes went away.
Hi iDd, I have to ck my grounds, before removing my ebcm...how many are there? My vette is a 1999 convertible A4...so no one will rebuild or solder them...97 to 01...So I need to ck other things first...thx.
There are 13 total for the car. However, I would check the majority in the engine bay itself and worry less about the others. There's 4 around the bay and 3 attached to the engine block. I only cleaned the four around the bay as they are most prone to corrosion. One is located under the battery, one behind each front headlight and the fourth is directly across from the one under the battery on the driver side. The one that is linked to the EBCM is the one underneath the battery.
@@iDriveDaily Thank you Very Much for the info...and the exact details...cool...I really hope it does the trick...the alternatives suck...for All 97 to 01 owners....thx again.
I've read a bit on the earlier C5s and they are a bit more finicky. Best of luck, should it turn out to be another problem you are able to track down, let me know.
@@iDriveDaily I was really hoping to be the resoldering job, or even less. ..but mine isn't included in that repair...It hurts the resale value if not fixed...and those are dropping like A Led Zepplin.
www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/896875-important-electrical-information-long.html
That thread was specifically written by a 97-00 owner. It may lead you to more information on repairing your issue. Its been a few weeks since I read it, so In don't quite remember everything included in it.
MAN C1214 is 10 Dollars,,, don't throw away 1300 , just replace a relay
Yep, if you have a soldering kit it could potentially cost you nothing but time.
To swap it out
U R geerat
Kinda what you deserve buying the over priced piece of junk .
Thanks for the view.
Warren Harris stay classy 😉
Billy goat driving a yugo