Now I understand how the brackets and shims work. Thank you. BTW, a socket and ratchet works for the 4 bearing retainer nuts by using the hole in the axle.
Kick ass video brotha best one I've seen that takes the time to show every step on this as I'm doing a Ford 9" rear end for a build I'm doing hope to see more educational video from you as well Thanks for showing me and all of us your skillz my friend. Niko in Arizona
Troy.. Great stuff.. Yes in regards to the bleeding procedure.. In particular focus of adjustments of the piston ( after you take the E- brake lever OFF.. What I’m looking for is for you to demonstrate how to adjust the piston up against the rotor to then enable the bleeding process to achieve a good form pedal as it should be.. We cannot get a handle on how to do this.. Much appreciated if you can assist..! Thx.
Ok I had a similar problem. Take the E brake cable off. Actuate the cable lever, as if you are applying the E brake. Do this until the pads come into contact with the rotor. You may have to pump the brakes intermitently to take up the slack. A couple of lug nut on the stud to hole the rotor in place will also be of help. Additional bleeding during this process may be neccessary. This process can take some time. Be patient and cintinue and you'll get it. Good Luck with the project Troy
@@charliefrey3478 I generally adapt my original cables. So, I use the factory supplied bracket for the cable housing mount. Then I cut the cable end to the required length. Then I crimp a swage on the end of the cable. When it's done it looks OEM.
Troy - great video! You referred to another video regarding the secondary e-brake cable system. For the life of me, I can't find it. Can you help me out? Thanks!
So I have used a combination of factory parts combined with kit parts and Lokar's E brake cable kit to make mine work in the past. Each one has been a little different.
@@troykane Thanks for the reply. I finally ditched the supplied e-brake kit and ordered a Wilwood universal kit. Pulled all my hair out so hopefully it'll grow back now.
First of all, this is a Great Video. But I have a question @ 4:48 when u install the flange spacer on your axle housing, this will change the Backspace of the Rims right ? I guess the spacer is about 3-5mm thick, and this amount of mm the Wheel went Outside right ? So my Wheel barely scratch at my Rear Fender, so this will not work for me
12:40.... spacer over bolts... no anti seize on the bolts where the spacers will rest? Any reason to not WELD the kit together once finger tight on axle?
So i have the same setup on my 57 and have Hard time bleeding the system out. So you mentioned that remove the spring from the e brake handle, push the lever when it engages the pads to the rotor, then pumping the brake pedal?? After this bleeding the brakes or at the same time you pump the pedal and hold the lever? This is Hard setup to bleed for sure 😅
Ok so, everytime the E brake lever is moved it will take up the slack between the rotor and the pads. This system has threads on the shaft that holds the brake puck. Applying the E brake will adjust the brake and close that gap. That will assist in the bleeding process. And yes I find the bleeding process somewhat of a pain. But, be patient and you'll get it.
Much obliged for the instructional video, for some of those that doesn't know how to go around these things. I have a bit of a question for you I have a 1986 f150, 4.9 engine a 4 speed granny manual transmission. A 5 bolt pattern half inch sprockets bolt's 🔩, I don't know which of this kits will fit to my rear end .!! Because I wanted to do the same, put disc in the back and get rid of the drums.!!!! What would you, suggest to me thank you so kind..
To chose a kit first you need to identify your rear axle assembly. This kit is for a Ford 9 inch rear axle. Google Ford rear end for pictures to identify the rear end and purchase the kit using that information. Good luck, thanks for the question
I thought the axle retaining flange had to be removed on 8 and 9 inch ford housings ? I see that you installed this kit without removing them. I have a differant brand kit that is basicly the same.
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Now I understand how the brackets and shims work. Thank you. BTW, a socket and ratchet works for the 4 bearing retainer nuts by using the hole in the axle.
Thanks for the comment. Glad I could help.
Him using the wrench instead of a socket was driving me a little crazy.
Kick ass video brotha best one I've seen that takes the time to show every step on this as I'm doing a Ford 9" rear end for a build I'm doing hope to see more educational video from you as well Thanks for showing me and all of us your skillz my friend. Niko in Arizona
Thanks! I'm really glad I could help you. Thanks for the feedback.
in my opinion a very comprehensive and good video. Thank you.
Thank You! Glad you enjoyed it
Troy..
Great stuff..
Yes in regards to the bleeding procedure.. In particular focus of adjustments of the piston ( after you take the E- brake lever OFF..
What I’m looking for is for you to demonstrate how to adjust the piston up against the rotor to then enable the bleeding process to achieve a good form pedal as it should be..
We cannot get a handle on how to do this..
Much appreciated if you can assist..!
Thx.
Ok I had a similar problem. Take the E brake cable off. Actuate the cable lever, as if you are applying the E brake. Do this until the pads come into contact with the rotor. You may have to pump the brakes intermitently to take up the slack. A couple of lug nut on the stud to hole the rotor in place will also be of help. Additional bleeding during this process may be neccessary. This process can take some time. Be patient and cintinue and you'll get it. Good Luck with the project Troy
Dude you saved my install with this video!
Glad I could help. Thanks for the comment
@@troykane you are very welcome. Any chance you have the vid for the parking break?
@@charliefrey3478 I generally adapt my original cables. So, I use the factory supplied bracket for the cable housing mount. Then I cut the cable end to the required length. Then I crimp a swage on the end of the cable. When it's done it looks OEM.
You doing great Job
Thank You!
I know how to do it but you made me get off my ass and do it. lol thanks great video
Awesome! Glsd to be a motivater.
most important part of video is missing or did i not hear it..? What is the axle center line measurement to the furthermost point of the caliper.?
Troy - great video! You referred to another video regarding the secondary e-brake cable system. For the life of me, I can't find it. Can you help me out? Thanks!
Sorry, I can't find it either?
@@troykane Do you have any photos or explanation regarding all the parts in the kit and when, if needed, to use them?
So I have used a combination of factory parts combined with kit parts and Lokar's E brake cable kit to make mine work in the past. Each one has been a little different.
@@troykane Thanks for the reply. I finally ditched the supplied e-brake kit and ordered a Wilwood universal kit. Pulled all my hair out so hopefully it'll grow back now.
@@carbonvalleymotors1082 There's always Hair Club 😁
First of all, this is a Great Video. But I have a question @ 4:48 when u install the flange spacer on your axle housing, this will change the Backspace of the Rims right ? I guess the spacer is about 3-5mm thick, and this amount of mm the Wheel went Outside right ?
So my Wheel barely scratch at my Rear Fender, so this will not work for me
No it won't. The flange spacer mimicks the thickness of the original backing plate. So it should be very close to the original offset.
@@troykane
Ok, thank you.
Keep up the good Work 👍
12:40.... spacer over bolts... no anti seize on the bolts where the spacers will rest? Any reason to not WELD the kit together once finger tight on axle?
Anti seeze on the bolts where the spacers rest, good idea. Welding the brackets not so much.
What size rim are you using on that 9in with disk brake? Thank you
This car has 20"s. But I think you could run 17"s
So i have the same setup on my 57 and have Hard time bleeding the system out. So you mentioned that remove the spring from the e brake handle, push the lever when it engages the pads to the rotor, then pumping the brake pedal?? After this bleeding the brakes or at the same time you pump the pedal and hold the lever? This is Hard setup to bleed for sure 😅
Ok so, everytime the E brake lever is moved it will take up the slack between the rotor and the pads. This system has threads on the shaft that holds the brake puck. Applying the E brake will adjust the brake and close that gap. That will assist in the bleeding process. And yes I find the bleeding process somewhat of a pain. But, be patient and you'll get it.
Much obliged for the instructional video, for some of those that doesn't know how to go around these things. I have a bit of a question for you I have a 1986 f150, 4.9 engine a 4 speed granny manual transmission. A 5 bolt pattern half inch sprockets bolt's 🔩, I don't know which of this kits will fit to my rear end .!! Because I wanted to do the same, put disc in the back and get rid of the drums.!!!! What would you, suggest to me thank you so kind..
To chose a kit first you need to identify your rear axle assembly. This kit is for a Ford 9 inch rear axle. Google Ford rear end for pictures to identify the rear end and purchase the kit using that information. Good luck, thanks for the question
I thought the axle retaining flange had to be removed on 8 and 9 inch ford housings ? I see that you installed this kit without removing them. I have a differant brand kit that is basicly the same.
I don't know what kit you have. Maybe it is different
im looking to get this done on my 1948 ford ! how much do you charge to do this and where you located? im in texas.
I am located in Massachusetts. the price would depend on the component costs and the condition of the vehicle.
@@troykane okay man that would be a long way lol!
@@edwinveal8248 Down the road a piece...
I pop the goddamn piston from the caliper out tryin to push it in further, is there a way i can put it back on im having a hardtime gettin it back in
You should be able to push the piston back in. lube it with brake fluid an use a c clamp. Make sure the brake bleeder in open. Good luck
@@troykane its the screw type though, will it screw back in just by pushing it???
@@ae86tvis You need a tool for that. It screws the puck while compressing it at the sametime. You should be able to get one a an autoparts store.
Thanks!