It's funny that this part of the reassembly is so popular to the algorithm. Thanks for the info, I did get the bike together, it still has some issues but as far as the clutch is concerned I got through that. I have some later video's featuring it moving under it's own power, though there's some roughness to it. I didn't have a perfect set of new parts so that's just how it goes.
Thank you for the help, yeah it definitely seems to go together like that much better. I've been messing around with it for the last few weeks, and I decided to go with that direction. It's nice to have some confirmation so I really appreciate the response.
Wow - I am so happy - I just put my clutch back together and was having the same conundrum because of the manual. The only way it works is with concave side out on the inner plate and convex out on the thrust plate...
also, I was able to use a 3-arm generic puller from Harbor Freight ($18) to compress the clutch to get those little nuts on. I hooked 2 of the arms behind the clutch basket and third behind the lip on top of case. Slightly asymmetric, but it worked!
Guys I have a 73 Zundapp MX 125 and had an issue with the clutch not disengaging. I found new friction plates (In Holland) and replaced them . New oil etc. Same thing, still not disengaging. My clutch basket has 6 friction plates. Feels like the clutch should be disengaging sooner. I have too much slack taken in on cable and still feels like it needs to go further. Cant get in gear, it stalls the bike and gears grind. Curious Michael if'n you ever got the bike running and able to shift correctly. Ted, curious to know what you mean by "out on the inner plate and out on the thrust plate?"
It seems that manual is junk, for issues with not disengaging clutches most problems are caused by the main shaft in the trans, behind that so called spline gear in the clutch it needs shims. That much till the axial freeplay of the shaft is not more then 1/10 mm! To do so mount spline gear, then that last plate you have been putting in the wrong way, tighten the nut on the shaft and then rock the shaft up an down (motor lying on left side) that feelable play should not exceed 1/10 mm! If neccessary add or take away shims! Then start assambeling clutch never before that!
>>chappledesign There could be many reasons for the clutch not disengaging. Did you check if all of your clutch plates (the metal ones) are perfectly straight? If they are just slightly bend the clutch doesn't disengage correctly. Also you have to check if the axial freeplay is below 0,1mm. "Zündapp-Werk" commented how to set the fairplay correctly. It's also described in the manual. If both of these things are properly, you just have to set the freeplay of the clutch lever, which should be ~2mm at the end of the lever.
EDIT: I believe these shim part numbers I mentioned above are wrong and are actually for the magneto side of the main shaft. My Bad. Sadly the manual and Parts Diagram do not show these shims :-/. There are no numbers that I can find. Here are some pics of the manual and the order of my clutch plates as they were disassembled. flic.kr/s/aHsmKWneWj Where do I find these shims?? See pencil pointing manual where shims should go.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
if still needed: th-cam.com/video/WPLmmPvuADU/w-d-xo.html
It's funny that this part of the reassembly is so popular to the algorithm. Thanks for the info, I did get the bike together, it still has some issues but as far as the clutch is concerned I got through that. I have some later video's featuring it moving under it's own power, though there's some roughness to it. I didn't have a perfect set of new parts so that's just how it goes.
Hi, the top clutch plate must be assembled the other way. The way described in the manual is wrong.
Thank you for the help, yeah it definitely seems to go together like that much better.
I've been messing around with it for the last few weeks, and I decided to go with that direction. It's nice to have some confirmation so I really appreciate the response.
Wow - I am so happy - I just put my clutch back together and was having the same conundrum because of the manual. The only way it works is with concave side out on the inner plate and convex out on the thrust plate...
also, I was able to use a 3-arm generic puller from Harbor Freight ($18) to compress the clutch to get those little nuts on. I hooked 2 of the arms behind the clutch basket and third behind the lip on top of case. Slightly asymmetric, but it worked!
Guys I have a 73 Zundapp MX 125 and had an issue with the clutch not disengaging. I found new friction plates (In Holland) and replaced them . New oil etc. Same thing, still not disengaging. My clutch basket has 6 friction plates. Feels like the clutch should be disengaging sooner. I have too much slack taken in on cable and still feels like it needs to go further. Cant get in gear, it stalls the bike and gears grind. Curious Michael if'n you ever got the bike running and able to shift correctly. Ted, curious to know what you mean by "out on the inner plate and out on the thrust plate?"
thats right
It seems that manual is junk, for issues with not disengaging clutches most problems are caused by the main shaft in the trans, behind that so called spline gear in the clutch it needs shims. That much till the axial freeplay of the shaft is not more then 1/10 mm! To do so mount spline gear, then that last plate you have been putting in the wrong way, tighten the nut on the shaft and then rock the shaft up an down (motor lying on left side) that feelable play should not exceed 1/10 mm! If neccessary add or take away shims! Then start assambeling clutch never before that!
>>chappledesign There could be many reasons for the clutch not disengaging. Did you check if all of your clutch plates (the metal ones) are perfectly straight? If they are just slightly bend the clutch doesn't disengage correctly. Also you have to check if the axial freeplay is below 0,1mm. "Zündapp-Werk" commented how to set the fairplay correctly. It's also described in the manual. If both of these things are properly, you just have to set the freeplay of the clutch lever, which should be ~2mm at the end of the lever.
EDIT: I believe these shim part numbers I mentioned above are wrong and are actually for the magneto side of the main shaft.
My Bad. Sadly the manual and Parts Diagram do not show these shims :-/. There are no numbers that I can find. Here are some pics of the manual and the order of my clutch plates as they were disassembled. flic.kr/s/aHsmKWneWj Where do I find these shims?? See pencil pointing manual where shims should go.