For everyone here , if you have an 05,06 and 07 classic , and you try to install a 2003-2004 cluster , you will get the battery warning , it’s because it’s a different revision of the cluster . Now every 05,06 and 07 are interchangeable just different looks . :)
Purple signal wire off the alternator diode can trigger the light for a few reasons... I learned about this after installing a Premier Power Welder from some awesome electrical gurus at Ace Alternator in yucca valley California... Could be worth a phone call if you are still scratching your head...
Not sure if you're still having the problem but I can offer this. I had the same problem as you with my '02 3500HD. Check the key-reminder/lights-on chime box that's plugged into the fuse box under the dashboard. That chime box does more than chime, it might be called a body control box. But part of its duty directly relates to the charge system. When I had the problem that you are, it was because that box is finicky about how it's plugged-in. Try wiggling it around or pull it in and out enough to clean the contacts. The way to find this box is to make it chime, so put the lights on with the engine off, or put the key in the ignition and open the driver's door. If it turns out that this box is missing from your truck, then you'll have to get one. If this didn't fix the problem, then go backwards on the work that's been done to your truck since the problem turned up. Like if everything was OK before you changed out the cluster, then the problem is probably with the cluster. Good luck to you.
I appreciate it. All my other functions (door chimes, key reminder, etc) are functioning properly. I'll look into it, but it started after the cluster swap. I bet the cluster is either damaged or just not quite compatible due to the years difference. This is another reason why I started this page to share knowledge from experience. I appreciate your comment and time to let others know another thing to check!
@@JamieGarrett-ru4rq It's located under the dashboard on the firewall on the left side when facing the firewall. It's a fuse box, and that box (module) is plugged-into the fuse box. Follow my instructions above on how to make it chime, and you'll go right to it. If it happens to be missing from your truck than find a diagram for the fuse box.
@@discerningmind I need to get it figured out cause I have to be in Tuscaloosa this afternoon for the game. Thanks again from muscle shoals alabama my friend.
Did you finally fix this issue. Im currently dealing with this same issue. I have an aftermarket 230 amp alternator and a yellow top optima battery. It doesn’t do it all the time Some days its fine no issues. Then all of a sudden batt light then msg center says battery not charging. I have a digital voltmeter on my EQ and it reads steady 14.3 driving and at idle when voltage comes down a little i can rev and it goes right up so i know it sending voltage.i dont get it. I really think its the yellow top. Its only a year old
Mine is actually due to the cluster being the wrong year. 03 cluster in an 07 classic truck. Have you tried to clean up or switch out the fusable link, black cable from alternator to battery cable. With the high amp alternator, you may have to add a resister of some kind. I've seen several forums talk about if after installing high amp alternators. I know the infamous battery light troubles a lot of Chevy owners. It's a lot of trial and error unfortunately, there's several pieces to the puzzle to check.
@@macsboneyardbuilds well i saw another post about a clamp over the ground wire sensor and that sensor causes this however i must have an early 04 Silverado or its an 03 I don’t have that. Just straight ground. I was thinking of adding more ground wire and see if that helps. I drove it today with no issues and jammed the system with no issues. Gd gremlin
@@jimmyramirez8844 yes i did. The Alternator I ordered from Amazon went bad. I ordered another and returned the first one. So far so good. I did some research and majority of the time you get a battery light and the msg center says battery not charging its the Alternator. When a battery goes bad you don’t get any Msg or battery light.
I’ve got the same problem except it doesn’t instantly come on only after startup up and idle for 20 ish seconds or startup and immediately start driving around 2-5 minutes I put a new GBCM and the problem killed my 2 year old battery so I had to replace that, I constantly have to clean the positive terminal cause of corrosion and the alt tests fine, I even added another ground strap and cleaned all those negative ground points also, can’t figure it out either
The cluster is either defective or has to be programed to the VIN of the truck. For some reason the BCM doesn't like the new cluster, or the cluster isn't programmed for that trim level. A Cluster rebuilder would be the best place to ask and find a definitive answer before you replace more parts. And the PRNDL Display is not working.
Agreed. I didn't even notice PRNDL until later, making me lean towards an issue with the cluster board. Once the lights start burning out, because we know they will, I will send it off to have it fixed and the milage corrected. Thanks for the commment!
03-04 charging systems are 4 wire to alternators, 05 started using the 2 wire system to alternator. Cluster is wrong year. You need 05 or newer guage cluster.
@GroveDaLord I do know these clusters were prone for issues. Hate to say it, but I've just gotten used to it and just watch my actual volt gauge for issues
Do you think the wrong year cluster (or cheap dorman aftermarket) can cause gauges to fluctuate slightly also? My voltage and oil pressure gauge fluctuate around and i put in a new oil pressure sensor and had alternator and battery checked and all good.
@86calcutta yes, older gauges and sensors are going to give off not true readings. That's why if you see low oil pressure for example, the first thing to do is to check with a mechanical test gauge. A lot of times, it's not actually low. It's just a bad reading. Plus, aftermarket sensors, even new Delco parts, are known to be cheaply made and not as reliable as they were 20 years ago.
Did a cluster swap on my truck and finding that I’m having the same issue on my 2003 Chevy Avalanche replaced the battery and the light stayed on after lmk if you find out if it’s the cluster or not
I swapped out every part of the charging system (battery, alternator, regulator) and keep getting the same results. I am figuring either the battery light itself is defective or the cluster isn't 100% compatible. All my gauges are working, and it's charging correctly, so those are the answers I can come up with. It's frustrating me as well.
@@andyhernandez9154 I change the alternator battery and starter three times come to find out this is very rare lot. People don’t know about this. Come to find out it was the battery generator sensor the sensor that is on the negative battery cable
so what if the light came on while i was driving and my whole truck piece by piece started turning off to the point i loose power steering then the truck turns off and doesn't turn back on.
No. It's one of 2 things. The cluster was out of an 03 or 04 and I have an 07 classic, so it's not a perfect match cluster. Or the cluster must have a short on the circuit board to the dummy light. It's been on since I installed it, and the battery and charging system is working flawlessly. Sorry, but I haven't figured out a solution yet.
Did you ever find an answer to fix your battery light problem I'm currently having the same issue and I did not see a video proving you showed how you fixed this issue.
@NoBody420Psilocybin So found out my particular issue was the cluster swap. The cluster came from an 03 and my truck is an 07 classic. They had different style alternators so the cluster isn't happy.
The cluster was from an 03-04 using a 4 wire alternator. My 07 classic uses a 2 wire, so the cluster isn't happy. In my particular case it's a fake warning light. These clusters are very finicky and the charging systems has tons of areas that can go bad like the fusable link at the fuse box, bcm connections, along with all the areas I checked in the video. Just keep after it eventually you'll track down the cause.
Is the cluster you got it from a 2003 or 2004 escalade some of them wires are a bit different I make custom clusters windows switches ac controls I’ve seen this happen too many times already I cal help you out if you still have the problem only thing is that you need to take apart the cluster and soldered 2 pigtails together
Over charging alternators is usually caused by the voltage regulator on the alternator. I couldn't see 3 different alternators having bad regulators. But GM also had the battery control module on the negative cable on later years. May want to try swapping that out. Did you try and clean up all the grounds you can find. Bad grounds will create havoc on all types of battery behavior
@@macsboneyardbuilds thank you for your response. I work crazy hours and just now getting time to relook at it. Poor truck has been sitting this whole time. I will look for that on Friday. (Tomorrow) Thank you again for your response
Mine was actually due to the cluster swap. It was out of an 03, and my truck is an 07 classic. They used different style alternators, so the cluster is reading the alternator wrong. It's charging fine. Just have the light on.
@@macsboneyardbuilds I’m glad you got that figured out. Never fun throwing money out the window trying to resolve a problem. I’m thinking my issue is the regulator in the alternator overcharging the system. Battery light will turn on for abit then if it sits for 10mins it’ll turn off…
Try and hit up a pick and pull junkyard. Grab an alternator and the wire going to battery junction block, it's actually specific and if it shorts it can throw the light too.
Wrong year cluster. It was out of an 03 I believe, and my truck is an 07 classic. Different alternators and cluster designs. All gauges work, battery light just won't go away.
'02 1500...... fuse-able link was my problem. the wire that runs from the alternator to the red battery cable "gang box". its not just a wire and a regular wire didn't fix the problem. not sold at auto parts store but got it from a junk yard for $2.
Did u ever find what the problem was I have the same issue wit my 2000 gmc sierra and can't find wat it is my battery flashes and the volts are like at 15.5
No I haven't. 15.5 is on the high side. Yours may be the regualtor on the negative battery cable. I plan on putting my original cluster back in to see if it's on. That will tell me if it's the cluster or the truck. I'll update once I have time to swap them around again. 👍
@@macsboneyardbuilds I replaced my voltage regulator on the negative cable with a brand new OEM AC delco and it didn’t fix my problem with the battery light coming on at idle after 15-20 seconds still tracing where my voltage drop down to 9 volts for a split second comes from
Yep, I checked it and it was good. Went the extra mile and checked literally every fuse in hopes it was piggybacked to something else and all are good. Due to the clusters gear indicator being burnt out, I'm thinking the board has a short in it somewhere.
Ended up being due to the cluster being from an 03 and the truck is an 07 classic. All the gauges work, but different style alternators so the cluster isn't happy.
Im having issue. At first it displayed Battery Charging System. So I went ahead and changed battery and alternator. But now its not displaying that alert, but my battery gauze still going low while I stop or park. Is that normal or bad.? I dont have no amp nor nothing like that.
If you are having intermittent battery issues, I would locate and clean all the grounds. Main battery cable to motor, motor to frame, frame to chasis. There are several. Google will help you locate them. Is it throwing a check engine code?
Unfortunately it could be one of many things. Bad ignition tumbler, BCM, alternator regulator, a short in wiring, and the list goes on. Is the battery weak or dead after sitting?
That is probably a bad motor in the dash. If you were charging over 19 volts, you would have major electrical issues. I would get an obd code reader, and it will tell you what your actual voltage is in the charging system.
Came here to see if anyone is having the same issue as me had a knock sensor code I changed both knock sensors and the harness and even the crank sensor no engine lights anymore, but the truck randomly stalls out and when it does the battery light comes on, anyone have any ideas what it could be? I have a 03 cateye 4.8 v8
Mine is due to the cluster swap being from different model years. Be sure to check your fuses, I think it's RVC, particularly. Also, your grounds, it will trip due to a poor ground connection. If it's not those, then you have to keep digging with the regulator, alternator, etc. Don't forget it is also possible your cluster just isn't reading correctly and turning the bulb on for no legitimate reason.
My battery light came on after car wash and also keep prndL panel on aswell even when 2000 Silverado is turned off figured wah got fuse box under hood wet but is not to wet and its 10below in chicago i can't get the light to go out
I'm watching because I have 07 Silverado 5.3 exact same syntems here gauge all over the place ok my thoughts voltage regulator I buy brand new not a remanufactured new still same thing so I buy new battery still no change gauge all over the place and battery light on same thing with or without a full power load even no load at all I'm same page to wtf is it ive cleaned connections what I could get to to clean I can't find my grimlin where's it at guys
Be sure to clean all your grounds. Back of motor, under drivers side, everywhere. Sometimes, if one has a poor connection it will throw the code. I know the battery light on these trucks is super touchy
Update on my new alternator and new battery ive cleaned ground wires I unhooked my battery ground wire while running it took a minute or so running but it did die with the ground cable off now according to my old shade tree alternator testing days that indicated a bad voltage regulator inside the alternator its under warranty I'm taking it back and trying another one
Up date again one more alternator still same thing battery light comes on still discharging dash shows security lock light on what am I missing here I've cleaned both hot and ground connections that I can get to easy I do have a bad passengers side window motor even covered up during rains it still gets wet would that set off a code the truck has been wrecked on drivers side before I owned it some one guve me some good starting points here two brand alternators new battery nothing is fixing my problem I have a heavy arc hooking the ground back to battery
I believe saintzsinnerz figured it out. The cluster is from a pre 05 Escalade and had a different alternator wiring setup. I've changed everything, and it's still on. Wish I would have figured that out before chasing something I couldn't find. Haha
I didn't have this issue til I bought a brand new battery a month after I bought a new alternator . I started having a parasitic draw that I located by pulling fuses and turns out my stereo was pulling the 2.1 amps while truck was off so battery was dying but after I located the parasitic draw my battery light came on and noticed voltage was a little low on cluster. If I figured it out, I'll let y'all know.
For everyone here , if you have an 05,06 and 07 classic , and you try to install a 2003-2004 cluster , you will get the battery warning , it’s because it’s a different revision of the cluster . Now every 05,06 and 07 are interchangeable just different looks . :)
But in this case the battery light comes on instantly and never goes off. Sometimes programming the cluster with the correct VIN clears it up.
Purple signal wire off the alternator diode can trigger the light for a few reasons... I learned about this after installing a Premier Power Welder from some awesome electrical gurus at Ace Alternator in yucca valley California... Could be worth a phone call if you are still scratching your head...
Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it.
When he said your killin me smalls ... That's just how I felt diagnosing my batt light ...I wonder how many people got that reference tho 💯💪🏾
Not sure if you're still having the problem but I can offer this. I had the same problem as you with my '02 3500HD. Check the key-reminder/lights-on chime box that's plugged into the fuse box under the dashboard. That chime box does more than chime, it might be called a body control box. But part of its duty directly relates to the charge system. When I had the problem that you are, it was because that box is finicky about how it's plugged-in. Try wiggling it around or pull it in and out enough to clean the contacts. The way to find this box is to make it chime, so put the lights on with the engine off, or put the key in the ignition and open the driver's door. If it turns out that this box is missing from your truck, then you'll have to get one.
If this didn't fix the problem, then go backwards on the work that's been done to your truck since the problem turned up. Like if everything was OK before you changed out the cluster, then the problem is probably with the cluster. Good luck to you.
I appreciate it. All my other functions (door chimes, key reminder, etc) are functioning properly. I'll look into it, but it started after the cluster swap. I bet the cluster is either damaged or just not quite compatible due to the years difference. This is another reason why I started this page to share knowledge from experience. I appreciate your comment and time to let others know another thing to check!
@@macsboneyardbuilds You're very welcome.
@@discerningmind hey mane how do I be able 2 find dis box u be speakin on d
@@JamieGarrett-ru4rq It's located under the dashboard on the firewall on the left side when facing the firewall. It's a fuse box, and that box (module) is plugged-into the fuse box. Follow my instructions above on how to make it chime, and you'll go right to it. If it happens to be missing from your truck than find a diagram for the fuse box.
@@discerningmind I need to get it figured out cause I have to be in Tuscaloosa this afternoon for the game. Thanks again from muscle shoals alabama my friend.
Can someone help me my battery light comes on only when truck is turned off
Me too same problem
@@blackmoneymedia3587 so i cleaned all grounds and put a new ground from block to chasis lights never a ted up again happy about that it was crazy
Did u solve it? I’m having the same issue
Same problem
Hey l just got a swap on my 05 Silverado. Did you ever get the issue solved?
Mine ended up being the wrong year cluster. It's an 03 cluster in an 07 classic truck. They used different alternators so it's confused.
Did you finally fix this issue. Im currently dealing with this same issue. I have an aftermarket 230 amp alternator and a yellow top optima battery. It doesn’t do it all the time Some days its fine no issues. Then all of a sudden batt light then msg center says battery not charging. I have a digital voltmeter on my EQ and it reads steady 14.3 driving and at idle when voltage comes down a little i can rev and it goes right up so i know it sending voltage.i dont get it. I really think its the yellow top. Its only a year old
Mine is actually due to the cluster being the wrong year. 03 cluster in an 07 classic truck. Have you tried to clean up or switch out the fusable link, black cable from alternator to battery cable. With the high amp alternator, you may have to add a resister of some kind. I've seen several forums talk about if after installing high amp alternators. I know the infamous battery light troubles a lot of Chevy owners. It's a lot of trial and error unfortunately, there's several pieces to the puzzle to check.
@@macsboneyardbuilds well i saw another post about a clamp over the ground wire sensor and that sensor causes this however i must have an early 04 Silverado or its an 03 I don’t have that. Just straight ground. I was thinking of adding more ground wire and see if that helps. I drove it today with no issues and jammed the system with no issues. Gd gremlin
Yep, alternator control module. Tried that as well before I learned of the cluster differences. Keep after it, you'll get it.
@@donaldjackson4456did you fix the issue?
@@jimmyramirez8844 yes i did. The Alternator I ordered from Amazon went bad. I ordered another and returned the first one. So far so good. I did some research and majority of the time you get a battery light and the msg center says battery not charging its the Alternator. When a battery goes bad you don’t get any Msg or battery light.
I’ve got the same problem except it doesn’t instantly come on only after startup up and idle for 20 ish seconds or startup and immediately start driving around 2-5 minutes I put a new GBCM and the problem killed my 2 year old battery so I had to replace that, I constantly have to clean the positive terminal cause of corrosion and the alt tests fine, I even added another ground strap and cleaned all those negative ground points also, can’t figure it out either
The cluster is either defective or has to be programed to the VIN of the truck. For some reason the BCM doesn't like the new cluster, or the cluster isn't programmed for that trim level. A Cluster rebuilder would be the best place to ask and find a definitive answer before you replace more parts. And the PRNDL Display is not working.
Agreed. I didn't even notice PRNDL until later, making me lean towards an issue with the cluster board. Once the lights start burning out, because we know they will, I will send it off to have it fixed and the milage corrected. Thanks for the commment!
What about the little red box that is connected to the battery cable?
That wire is a fusable link and can go bad. Mine ended up being the wrong year cluster for the truck.
03-04 charging systems are 4 wire to alternators, 05 started using the 2 wire system to alternator. Cluster is wrong year. You need 05 or newer guage cluster.
That makes sense now. Thank you, I appreciate it.
@@macsboneyardbuilds anytime
I’ve had this issue even with my stock 2006 cluster, tried to swap several different clusters and still got the same problem no matter what.
@GroveDaLord I do know these clusters were prone for issues. Hate to say it, but I've just gotten used to it and just watch my actual volt gauge for issues
I just 5.3 swapped my 03 Chevy Silverado and my truck won't charge u know how I can fix that
Do you think the wrong year cluster (or cheap dorman aftermarket) can cause gauges to fluctuate slightly also? My voltage and oil pressure gauge fluctuate around and i put in a new oil pressure sensor and had alternator and battery checked and all good.
@86calcutta yes, older gauges and sensors are going to give off not true readings. That's why if you see low oil pressure for example, the first thing to do is to check with a mechanical test gauge. A lot of times, it's not actually low. It's just a bad reading. Plus, aftermarket sensors, even new Delco parts, are known to be cheaply made and not as reliable as they were 20 years ago.
Did a cluster swap on my truck and finding that I’m having the same issue on my 2003 Chevy Avalanche replaced the battery and the light stayed on after lmk if you find out if it’s the cluster or not
I swapped out every part of the charging system (battery, alternator, regulator) and keep getting the same results. I am figuring either the battery light itself is defective or the cluster isn't 100% compatible. All my gauges are working, and it's charging correctly, so those are the answers I can come up with. It's frustrating me as well.
Did you ever figure out that battery issue because I’m having the same problem but mine comes on and then turns off and then comes back on later on
I’m having the same issue bro did u fix it
@@andyhernandez9154 I change the alternator battery and starter three times come to find out this is very rare lot. People don’t know about this. Come to find out it was the battery generator sensor the sensor that is on the negative battery cable
so what if the light came on while i was driving and my whole truck piece by piece started turning off to the point i loose power steering then the truck turns off and doesn't turn back on.
@soysaucebtw6108 I would guess your alternator said goodbye or your battery left the chat. Have both of them tested.
Did you figure what the problem was?
No. It's one of 2 things. The cluster was out of an 03 or 04 and I have an 07 classic, so it's not a perfect match cluster. Or the cluster must have a short on the circuit board to the dummy light. It's been on since I installed it, and the battery and charging system is working flawlessly. Sorry, but I haven't figured out a solution yet.
Did you ever find an answer to fix your battery light problem I'm currently having the same issue and I did not see a video proving you showed how you fixed this issue.
Not yet. Kevin Walker just commented that the purple signal wire may be the culprit. Gonna look into that when I have time.
You ever fix the issue??
@@macsboneyardbuildsdid it work?
@NoBody420Psilocybin So found out my particular issue was the cluster swap. The cluster came from an 03 and my truck is an 07 classic. They had different style alternators so the cluster isn't happy.
Did you ever figure it out?
The cluster was from an 03-04 using a 4 wire alternator. My 07 classic uses a 2 wire, so the cluster isn't happy. In my particular case it's a fake warning light. These clusters are very finicky and the charging systems has tons of areas that can go bad like the fusable link at the fuse box, bcm connections, along with all the areas I checked in the video. Just keep after it eventually you'll track down the cause.
Is the cluster you got it from a 2003 or 2004 escalade some of them wires are a bit different I make custom clusters windows switches ac controls I’ve seen this happen too many times already I cal help you out if you still have the problem only thing is that you need to take apart the cluster and soldered 2 pigtails together
@MrWwwyyyzzz100 that sounds easy enough. Yeah, I've just been living with it. Charging fine so didn't worry about it.
What will cause it to over charge. Im on my thrid alternator. They keep charging to 19 volts over heating bthen dying
Over charging alternators is usually caused by the voltage regulator on the alternator. I couldn't see 3 different alternators having bad regulators. But GM also had the battery control module on the negative cable on later years. May want to try swapping that out. Did you try and clean up all the grounds you can find. Bad grounds will create havoc on all types of battery behavior
@@macsboneyardbuilds thank you for your response. I work crazy hours and just now getting time to relook at it. Poor truck has been sitting this whole time. I will look for that on Friday. (Tomorrow) Thank you again for your response
P.s. cleaning the cables was my first go too.
Same problem. just curious if you’ve figured it out yet or just kept driving it? Appreciate your video
Mine was actually due to the cluster swap. It was out of an 03, and my truck is an 07 classic. They used different style alternators, so the cluster is reading the alternator wrong. It's charging fine. Just have the light on.
@@macsboneyardbuilds I’m glad you got that figured out. Never fun throwing money out the window trying to resolve a problem. I’m thinking my issue is the regulator in the alternator overcharging the system. Battery light will turn on for abit then if it sits for 10mins it’ll turn off…
Try and hit up a pick and pull junkyard. Grab an alternator and the wire going to battery junction block, it's actually specific and if it shorts it can throw the light too.
Did you find the issue?
Wrong year cluster. It was out of an 03 I believe, and my truck is an 07 classic. Different alternators and cluster designs. All gauges work, battery light just won't go away.
'02 1500...... fuse-able link was my problem. the wire that runs from the alternator to the red battery cable "gang box". its not just a wire and a regular wire didn't fix the problem. not sold at auto parts store but got it from a junk yard for $2.
Did u ever find what the problem was I have the same issue wit my 2000 gmc sierra and can't find wat it is my battery flashes and the volts are like at 15.5
No I haven't. 15.5 is on the high side. Yours may be the regualtor on the negative battery cable. I plan on putting my original cluster back in to see if it's on. That will tell me if it's the cluster or the truck. I'll update once I have time to swap them around again. 👍
@@macsboneyardbuilds I replaced my voltage regulator on the negative cable with a brand new OEM AC delco and it didn’t fix my problem with the battery light coming on at idle after 15-20 seconds still tracing where my voltage drop down to 9 volts for a split second comes from
Check your rvc fuse
Yep, I checked it and it was good. Went the extra mile and checked literally every fuse in hopes it was piggybacked to something else and all are good. Due to the clusters gear indicator being burnt out, I'm thinking the board has a short in it somewhere.
Your ecu is telling you that something has lost power. Could be an abs sensor, could be your cluster. Gotta use your test ligjt and diag skills
Ended up being due to the cluster being from an 03 and the truck is an 07 classic. All the gauges work, but different style alternators so the cluster isn't happy.
Im having issue. At first it displayed Battery Charging System. So I went ahead and changed battery and alternator. But now its not displaying that alert, but my battery gauze still going low while I stop or park. Is that normal or bad.? I dont have no amp nor nothing like that.
If you are having intermittent battery issues, I would locate and clean all the grounds. Main battery cable to motor, motor to frame, frame to chasis. There are several. Google will help you locate them. Is it throwing a check engine code?
My battery light only comes in when truck is turned off why is this
Unfortunately it could be one of many things. Bad ignition tumbler, BCM, alternator regulator, a short in wiring, and the list goes on. Is the battery weak or dead after sitting?
Auto shop owner here. Got the same issue after replacing the ECM for an unrelated issue
I have tinkered with it a little more and still there. It's frustrating, but as long as my gauges are working, I'm happy with it.
I have the same problem
Neil did you figure out what it was?
My truck gos over 19.. I don’t know what is it
That is probably a bad motor in the dash. If you were charging over 19 volts, you would have major electrical issues. I would get an obd code reader, and it will tell you what your actual voltage is in the charging system.
It’s the fuse
The fuse for that generator module
Came here to see if anyone is having the same issue as me had a knock sensor code I changed both knock sensors and the harness and even the crank sensor no engine lights anymore, but the truck randomly stalls out and when it does the battery light comes on, anyone have any ideas what it could be? I have a 03 cateye 4.8 v8
I have never had a problem like that before. Is it stalling like fuel; sputtering, back firing, or just turning off like electrical?
It was just my cluster the second cluster
Mine was wrong year cluster.
Men I ben drawing this problem for a few years 😅
Hey mane did he eva figa out what up wit this lite my be doing da sme Thang
Mine is due to the cluster swap being from different model years. Be sure to check your fuses, I think it's RVC, particularly. Also, your grounds, it will trip due to a poor ground connection. If it's not those, then you have to keep digging with the regulator, alternator, etc. Don't forget it is also possible your cluster just isn't reading correctly and turning the bulb on for no legitimate reason.
My battery light came on after car wash and also keep prndL panel on aswell even when 2000 Silverado is turned off figured wah got fuse box under hood wet but is not to wet and its 10below in chicago i can't get the light to go out
I'm watching because I have 07 Silverado 5.3 exact same syntems here gauge all over the place ok my thoughts voltage regulator I buy brand new not a remanufactured new still same thing so I buy new battery still no change gauge all over the place and battery light on same thing with or without a full power load even no load at all I'm same page to wtf is it ive cleaned connections what I could get to to clean I can't find my grimlin where's it at guys
Take note I did not change my cluster out my problem is just a unknown charging grimlin running around
Be sure to clean all your grounds. Back of motor, under drivers side, everywhere. Sometimes, if one has a poor connection it will throw the code. I know the battery light on these trucks is super touchy
Update on my new alternator and new battery ive cleaned ground wires I unhooked my battery ground wire while running it took a minute or so running but it did die with the ground cable off now according to my old shade tree alternator testing days that indicated a bad voltage regulator inside the alternator its under warranty I'm taking it back and trying another one
Up date again one more alternator still same thing battery light comes on still discharging dash shows security lock light on what am I missing here I've cleaned both hot and ground connections that I can get to easy I do have a bad passengers side window motor even covered up during rains it still gets wet would that set off a code the truck has been wrecked on drivers side before I owned it some one guve me some good starting points here two brand alternators new battery nothing is fixing my problem I have a heavy arc hooking the ground back to battery
Put your old cluster back on
The cluster is the problem, i had the same issue
I switch to the old cluster it works good, but the old cluster do not have Transmision temp.
Yep, it was due to different alternator years (2 wire vs 4 wire)
Ground wire
I believe saintzsinnerz figured it out. The cluster is from a pre 05 Escalade and had a different alternator wiring setup. I've changed everything, and it's still on. Wish I would have figured that out before chasing something I couldn't find. Haha
I didn't have this issue til I bought a brand new battery a month after I bought a new alternator . I started having a parasitic draw that I located by pulling fuses and turns out my stereo was pulling the 2.1 amps while truck was off so battery was dying but after I located the parasitic draw my battery light came on and noticed voltage was a little low on cluster. If I figured it out, I'll let y'all know.