I believe the reason that the swing weights change by the same amount when added to the grip end is because because the fulcrum point is in the same place for each club, whereas, on the head end of the club, the length of the club can be closer to or further from the fulcrum point and the added weight will be felt more the longer the club is.
this is correct. swingweight at the end of the day is just a torque value which involves force and distance that force is away from the fulcrum. the fulcrum being defined as 14" from the butt means that the only way to change the swingweight with the same dummyweight would be to move it relative to the fulcrum
Swing weight is another term for the balance point of the club. Feel vs. real. If you adjust the loft sleeve on an adjustable club to flatten the lie angle, you essentially are making the club longer dynamically and making the club feel heavier because you changed the balance point of the club. It'll add roughly 1.2 swing weight points to the club.It's funny how physics works.
As a grip experiment, I have two Mavrik drivers, both with the same shaft. However, one has the stock standard size grip and the other I’ve installed a midsize grip. What started as a comparison to see which grip I liked better has turned into an experiment which has introduced swing weight variables. I had no idea until I watched this video. Thank you so much. BTW, I get more distance with the midsize grip setup and now I understand why.
Excellent video. I'm going to buy one of these to correct my Mizuno irons before the season starts. They feel very head light and i think its because of the multicompound Mcc grips, which are quite heavy, lowering the swing weight.
@@humorss Something else you might want to look at: M.O.I. weighting of irons. To do that each shorter iron is 0.65 swing weight point heavier than the next lower numbered club. In other words, if the 5 iron is D3, the 7 iron should be D4.3. This sis supposed to make every iron hav the same swing feel throughout the set. Mine are that way and I like them better. I bought irons covers to protect the lead tape I used to do this.
Thanks a lot for this analysis. I am going to add butt weight on my irons to lower swing weight accurately rather than disassemble and grind down the head! Great!!
Dear Mobile Clubmaker, Having just had a club fitting and tried a Srixen and a Ping G425 the guy that tested me came up with a combination of the following:- Ping G425 irons 5 to PW for £877 and a 54° and a 60° Ping Glide 4.0 wedges for £147 each. All set at orange for 2° Flat. Shafts were Alta CB 75gm Graphite regular standard length. Mid size Grips as opposed to standard (which help me stop pushing left through over active wrists) There were tangible differences between my current standard lie Callaway X14's with graphite standard flex shafts to make the change, however before I do invest I really want to look at another option which is to match as close I can to the recommended profile and alter a new second hand set of Taylormade RBZ Rocketballz irons with standard steel shafts. At the moment I don't know the swing weight of the recommended solution. Will finding this out enable me to create a reasonable match to the Fitting Profile suggested if I also change the lie angle of the Taylormade RBZ Rocketballz irons to 2° flat and change the grip size? Can you actually change the lie angle on the Taylormade RBZ Rocketballz irons? Many thanks. Mike
Those fitted clubs will be pretty grip heavy between the CB shaft and the midsize grip. That is probably the biggest difference between the sets and of course steel vs graphite. Though I believe the Rocketballz have sub 90g steel stock so not a huge change. The lie angle will really come down to the starting line of your ball. That's the difference from lie angle. The short irons will show the biggest difference in start line due to an incorrect lie angle. I did a video about this way back but you might check it out. th-cam.com/video/Dz7Cwk77394/w-d-xo.html
Awsome chanel! Ordered a set with standaard length after bingewqtching the Chanel and going to year them apart and build them back up with new shafts, grijs and swingweights. Project time 😃
Hello, I'm about to fit my Mizuno MP-52 with Fijikura Vista Pro 60i graphite shafts with Super Stoke midsize grips that weigh more or less 49g according to the manufacturer. My question is, what swing weight should I put on them? If I could tell you how much weight I should put on the tip of the shaft approximately, you are the expert, please advise me, thank you.
Very informative video - thank you. Being a former competitive tennis player, and hockey player, I have recently found Midsized +4 Grips and recently tried a friends jumbo grip - and liked it even more - just so much easier to put force into the club when you can get your Right hand properly on the grip (I even switched to a 10-finger grip last year and now will never go back). Hopefully, there will be more Midsized and Jumbo Grip offers in the 50gram range in the coming years - for now, I've gotten used to mid-C swing weights
That's the trick as it's hard to get that much material on a grip without the weight jumping up. Jumbo Winn grips used to be the lightest, not even sure what is lightest these days.
My wife's irons are C8, and she wants heavier like D2. Her shafts are Mitsubishi MMT graphite. How would you add enough internal weight? I put lead tape on the heads, but it looks terrible.
I would start out with lead tape for no other reason than it's fast and temporary. Would make sure that D2 is really what she likes. Start out just adding a piece or two at a time to the head until she gets the feel she likes. Then I would keep it there for at least for a few rounds to make sure it's working the way she wants. At that point if she is happy with it, you can either keep the tape on there, or break the clubs down and add tip weights to get back to that decided swing weight. Tungsten powder isn't a good option since the tips are so narrow with graphite. I am not sure what the interior tip diameter is on the MMTs as I have only dealt with one set and they were 130g TX flex so unlikely apples to apples. Assuming the tip is wide enough for tip weights, that will be the only option if lead tape is no good. Only other option would be to go longer on shaft length or get different heads that are heavier.
You have to remember that increasing the overall weight of her clubs may hamper her swing towards the end of the round just because of fatigue setting in. If you can keep the total weight of the club the same while changing the SW then it might not be as bad.
What you want is all your irons for example to be the same swing weight. As far as what swing weight is best, you really need to go out to the range with your clubs and some lead tape and start playing around with different head weights.
Great video on the results of adding weight to head and Butt-end of a club. I have added some lead tape to mu etc driver head. I have adjusted the optimal to stated loft and draw setting. It. hits straight and fairly long( for me). I'm a lefty. I am adding a 1 inch extension to a Callaway 3 Hybrid that I feel uncomfortable swinging as I feel that it is too short. I know that the addition of a one inch extension will add weight but have no idea how much as I have not yet ordered those. I can weight them when they come but all of that weight will not be just at the butt-end, I assume it will be spread over perhaps 3 inches,( down the shaft). I have no idea what the current swing weight of the club is however it feels very head heavy. I also understand from other of your videos that I can purchase weights that will fit in the butt end of the shaft to help balance the club a bit more. So as you can see I have a lot of "starter" information but I'm not at all sure where all of these additions will take me. I do not have access to equipment like yours so for calculating Swing Weight. Do I just start with a change to the length and feel how that swing feels, then decide to add a weight ( I wonder how much? ) , then try swinging again, then if OK redo my grip and hope for the best? Harvey
A 1 inch extension will add about 6 swing weight points to a club. The static weight change will only be a few grams with a graphite shaft extension. I personally don't ever love adding grip end weight for the sole purpose of lowering the swing weight. In the end you are adding to the total weight just to hit a certain swing weight number. So unless you know you like heavier overall club weights, you might not want to add too much grip end weight. Like you said, I would start with the extension and no other changes and go hit it over a week or so to give you enough time to get used to it. Then you can decide if you want to start changing weight.
D2 to D3 is very minimal. What feels best will be personal preference. D2 is pretty standard for a steel shafted, standard length iron set with standard 50g grips.
New subscriber. Love the simplicity of your presentation. You could drive yourself nuts with the adjustments. I recently had a fitting for new irons. Couple of interesting observations. Your fitting will vary day to day as your swing changes and I noticed more “feel” difference between the quality of the strikes than between clubs.( 4 hdcp , playing 50 years) Makes me wonder how many swing points change would an average golfer actually start to notice.
Going to be different for each golfer. Also not sure if better golfers will always notice more. I've had some golfers who were way off on what they thought they were playing and they were scratch. Just got to get out to the range with a roll of lead tape and start experimenting. Thanks for the support.
Usually just put a small amount of epoxy across the shaft tip before I insert the weight. Not really necessary since it is locked in between the shaft and bottom of hosel but a little epoxy to cushion the sides of the weight can't hurt.
ok, so far we all realize that the Swingweight changes depending on the weight on the head or on the Grip, and for me it's nothing more than codes that someone gave to the measuring instrument, now practice is what counts, how do I know if I'm D1, D2, D3 etc etc, that's what interests me to know, the effect it has, because when I'm doing a Fitting, what is the fitter based on to say that I'm D1 or D3?
My point is the idea of "needing" D1 vs D3 is far less important than any number of other variables. Swing weight is a measurement developed to ensure a set of irons have a consistent balance to them. That's what it's meant to do. It should not be used as a basic fitting spec like shaft length or grip size. The club components used (both weights and lengths) will be the guiding factor in where the swing weight can and should be.
Good Afternoon Mobile Clubmaker! I have the same swingweight scale, bought it second hand. Is there any calibration that needs to be done before taking swingweights or is it just making sure it is level? Thanks!
If I may ask. I swing weighted my club using the tdgcummings calculator. Driver E 0.9, 3 wood C 9.4, 5 wood 3.5, 4 iron C 9.1, 5 iron C 8.0, 6 iron C 8.5, 7 iron 9.8, 8 iron 0.5, 9 iron 9.4, PW D 0.2, GW C 8.9, SW C 8.3, 60° wedge C 7.7. It looks like the weights are inconsistent. I bought the components from Golf works and I'm an amateur builder. Any advice. Thank you.
Thank you. The driver is a Taylor Made R-1. I'm thinking of building a Maltby driver. The other clubs are Maltby STi2 irons and fairway woods. Great job on the videos. They have been invaluable.
@@davidweiss3367 Make sure you like the new feel of it because you have now added weight in order to reduce weight feel, ie counterbalancing. Might work great but just be aware it won't be the same as reducing head weight or shortening the club length.
I am changing grips and they are jumbo grips that weigh 117 grams. This appears it will change my swing weight significantly and I am wondering what that will do to my swing and ball flight/distance?
Your guess is as good as mine. That is a major change in both swing weight and static weight. No way to know what that will do to your swing until you try it out.
Hi AJ, Im a fan of the channel and your content and Im starting to tinker with my clubs now that i have a better understanding of my swing tendencies. i wanted to ask you what would be the minimum weight i should remove from a club (as a whole) to have a noticeable difference and how many swing weight levels should i drop to draw some kind of limit. I enjoy experimentation but i want to minimize the waste of resources
Hello. Thanks for the great informative videos you produce. I question if you don’t mind. If I’m cutting off 1.5 inches off the grip end on a 6 iron then what swing weight adjustment must I do to keep it the same swing weight. Thank you in advance.
Your explanation of SW is excellent! I will disagree on how you use MOI weighting. MOI weighting is meant to be the same across all irons (excluding wedges).
As always, fascinating subject matter . I'm thinking of increasing the SW of my cavity back irons. I've stuck self adhesive lead tape inside the cavity and really pleased with the result. However, the tape keeps coming loose what with impact, sand, dirt, water etc. Is there anyway of Inc SW without adhesive lead tape or removing the head? Thanks
The other option is to get tungsten powder that you pour down the shaft and then plug with a small epoxied cork. Does require removing the grips to do. I like the basic roll of lead tape, if you make sure the area is clean, dry, and not too cold when applying, it should stay put for a long long time.
do you think a lighter head is better than a stander head.i have a ping 425 at 202 grms and two shafts the stock shaft at 114grms and a tensi shaft reg flex at 141 grams i am 73 so what do you think. most all new clubs are at 195 grams. i still hit the ball 200 220. what would be better. i know loadeed question. thank you art
That head weight change is pretty small by itself. Really depends what length you are wanting to play the club at. Lighter will allow a longer length which could give more distance.
Love the channel Question: if I have a overall weight of driver and I switch out driver shaft for 3 wood shaft but the weight of the shaft is heavier and I reweigh the driver and total weight is identical does the swing weight stay the same also? ( driver shaft was 60g stiff and 3 wood shaft is 75g stiff. Head weight is constant) Thanks Thanks
Basic rule is 9g of shaft weight change = 1 swing weight point. So we would say in your case it gets 2 pts higher. But shortening the club = 3 SWPs per 1/2 inch so if you go from 45in to 43in, we are looking at 12 SWP decrease. Put these two things together and we should see 10pt decrease. This also assumes that the balance point is the same in both shaft, as that can alter swing weight. Very likely you will need to add some weight back to the head to make the weight closer to a 3 wood head weight.
This shows the shortcomings of swingweighting. For example, if I add a steel shaft extension to an iron, the weight of the extension part that inserts in the shaft weights about 6 grams. This reduces the swingweight by 1.5. So should 3 grams be added to the head to bring SW back ? I argue, no, as the extension part inside the shaft has nearly no effect on MOI. Also, let’s assume a golfer wears a wedding ring that weighs 6 grams. This weight is in the same position as the inserted part of the extension. Should this golfer add 3 grams to the head to compensate? Clearly not.
Hi, can anyone help me with this. I recently bought a mizuno st190 3 wood. I wanted to change the shaft but when I took it into the shop I was told the swing weight was still in the head of the club after shaft removal. I took it to a mizuno fitting shop and he couldn't remove it, any tips on how to remove it before I condemn it to the bin, thanks
@@EFGMC well according to the pro I took it to he said a swing weight that should have come out with the shaft had been left in the head of the club, he tried removing it with a drill bit but couldn't get it out so its lodged where I'd want to put the shaft in. I'm not sure how much sense that would make to you but that's how he's worded it to me!
I am re-shafting a friends’ irons from the stock 85 gram shafts to some 98 gram ones. I assume that the swing weight will change from stock due to the heavier shafts (I’ll use the online calculators that you’ve referenced to find out). Is my main concern when checking the swing weights that they are consistent, rather than that they are similar to the old stock swing weight?
Awesome, thank you so much for replying to my comment on this old video. Also thank you for making these videos, your instruction is what has given me the confidence to take on this project. You are my go to resource on this topic. Keep it up!
Hey AJ! question - I have an old set of Hogan's and I finally scored a PW head on eBay that matches the set. I had an extra hogan apex shaft that I cut down about an inch to get to standard length. But it is coming in at like a C5 swingweight using an online estimator and after some experimenting it seems like i need to add 16g to the head to get it to D0-D1. This seems extreme to me, does this sound right? Am I going about this incorrectly? And 16g plug weights aren't easy to come by. thanks!!
The online estimators aren't always great. Confused how you are getting C5, assuming the rest are all around D1? Is something different, (ie shaft, head weight).
@@EFGMC thanks for the reply! PW head = 283g (the 6i head = 256g). Shaft = 114g, grip=49g. The shaft was a pullout from a longer club that i cut down. I measured the cutoff = 1 1/8". The balance point is 26 15/16" from the butt with the club temporarily assembled. Would it be because i cut a longer shaft down that much? I taped 16g of coins to the head to get the swingweight up to D0-1 using the estimator.
Very useful explanation!!! I would have your suggestion about wedge swing weight ... I recently put on my wedge Taylormade MG2 (50°, 54° and 58°) project X 6.0 +0.5" to have a more heavier and stable shaft. Now the result is an high swing weight (D7 to D9) and a high ball flight, in all 3 wedges compare with my set of iron (Mizuno jpx921 forged, NSPro Modus3 tour 105s, +0.5", +1 step hard, D3/D4). So, I have a swing weight scale and I would like to make a test on my 50° grinding it in order to decrease swing weight ... which is your best swing weight value for wedges? (gap, sand and lob).
The pivot point of the gizmo is much further down the shaft than the pivot point of a shaft being swung, which is between the hands, about 5 inch from butt end. I don't think measurements of the gizmo provide useful information?
After the club is assembled, not much you can do. Drilling weight ports is an option but not really a good one for most people. Definitely don't put on a heavier grip as some people will say. Then you just end up with a higher static weight. Best option is always swing weight the club dry fit before epoxy so you can adjust as needed. Then you can drill down into the hosel to reduce weight. Also gives you a chance to rethink your shaft and length choices.
@@richardchristensen7258 Lead tape around the shaft. Plug weights that go into the shaft. Heavier grip. Just be aware that all of these are making the club heavier even though the SW will show lighter. I would only go this route if you know you like heavier clubs with lighter SW values.
looking to re shafting my apex cf19 with Fujikura 95i iron graphite shaft. they claim on their web site that their irons will let the club maker to achieve the swing weight of the customer desire. without adding lead tape or any additional material. I play my club already a half inch from standard. will they still have to add some weight to the head to get a D2? and will I have to use a different weighted shaft for wedges to get my desire swing weight? thanks for the your knowledge.
Sorry, is Fuji talking about the swing weight or Callaway? In either case it will depend on what shafts are currently being used as far as what will happen to the swing weight with the new shaft. Not sure of the balance point on the Fuji 95 as that will play a large roll.
@@EFGMC fuji website was claiming that you can achieve any swing weight and flex to any build using their shaft and reviews on you tube with their reps. thanks for your input.
I’d like to get iron/rescue clubs an inch shorter and lighter shaft what adjustments if any are required to swing weight/lie? Any other considerations or do the manufacturers adjust for this?
The lie will play flatter in most cases when going shorter assuming you don't change your posture during the swing. SW will drop around 6 points for the length and an additional pt for every 9 grams of shaft weight you remove. This however also assumes the balance point of the shaft doesn't change. Not sure how much OEMs will adjust for it with hybrids upon request. Might need to ask the specific one you're considering.
Have you ever altered the swing weight on G425 irons? Have you found anywhere that sells the screws at a different weights or do you only add weight to the bottom of the shaft? Great videos mate
I have only used shaft tip weights. Never seen different weight screws. Also you would be adding the weight only to the extreme toe end which could be good or very bad depending on the golfer.
AJ…I was fitted for clubs and then decided to add Arccos sensors to the end of my clubs. They are 8oz each. I don’t have a scale like yours, I’ve been using the measuring method from the video you did on using calculators. My question is do I need to add the 1/2 inch to the length of the club that the Arccos sensor adds, even though you don’t grip that far out on the club?
Great video. I'm curious why the fulcrum on seeing weight scales is always 14" from the butt end. What is the significance of that point? It's not half the club length (based on 37") and it's well below my lower hand position.
It's just how someone made it all those years ago. Not sure of the exact significance of 14 inches. Really only important that it is always that same 14 inches.
hi AJ, I'm about to get a Dynamic Gold AMT X100 on my new irons. My question is: why do not a lot of player play ascending weight irons? The concept makes so much sense to me, I'm wondering why it's not popular.
Hi AJ, Still beavering away on my shaft research. I love watching this one as I find it fascinating. I have actually gone forward and re-shafted my AP2 712 7 iron from a DG R300 to a DG 105 R300. Looking at the TT shaft specs and the cut weights I was expecting a reduction in overall weight in the order of 26g. I only got 18g. The pre re-shaft swing weight however came out at D0.5. During the re-shafting to the lighter shaft, I ensured it came back up to the standard of D2. I assume that the added weight to bring the swingweight up to D2 from D0.5 could explain some or all of the 8g reduction in overall weight that I didn't achieve. Would I be assuming correctly? My other query is, what is a machete doing perched on your white board?
Think you're right on the weight if you had to add some tip weight. Also the tolerances on DG shafts is + - 2g so that could be part of issue. As to your other question, why wouldn't I keep a machete perched on my wall?
Very nice! Just keep up the good work, it´s valuable for us. I have a question about swing weight. I have a driver that I cut on the butt to have a total length of 43.5 in. My swing coach told me to add lead tape on the head to restore the original SW of D3 otherwise it would be unplayable. I didn't! My driver has SW of C4. And to my surprise (my coach too) it is the best driver I ever had. It is long, straight and reliable. So my question is: what SW is all about? It is supposedly an unplayable club at SW C4 but it is the best I ever had. Can you explain it? Thanks and take care.
I can. SW was originally designed to make sure all your irons had a similar "feel". Was never really meant to be applied equally to all clubs. Therefore you can't assume that even if you like D2 in your irons, it's any guarantee that your driver will be the same. Also don't assume that if you liked your driver at D3 and 45 inches, that you would automatically like D3 at 43.5 SW is different for everyone, how they sense it, and how it affects their swing.
@@EFGMC Thank you so much for your explanation. That takes out of my mind a lot of heretical thoughts. What really matters is that I'm hitting the second shots from places I've never hit before, much closer to the green. Thanks again.
More head weight may change the golfers swing sequencing however each golfer will be different. More head weight will also cause the shaft to feel more flexible. Some will prefer this while others won't. Can't really say how an individual golfer will react until they try different swing weights.
Thank you for the answer. I gather that there are quite a few variables involved here and this is why I think you could make a video explaining the principles involved. I've heard, for instance, that manufacturers will adopt a given SW chosen according to the target player they destined a given club - lighter for beginners and heavier for scratch players. But that is the point, as about all golf players, I just don't know the truth from the myth on such topic. Si I call out to Super AJ ! Regards !@@EFGMC
This is a very interesting video. Would my plan for fitting my 2019 RBZ driver ruin it? Adding a 1.5" graphite extension and a midsize grip has to be way more than 10 grams. The mid grip alone is 6-10g more without it hanging farther off the end.
So you would be looking at 10 swing weight points change from the length. The grip would drop it back 2 SWP but still makes the overall club weight heavier. That said, you may find the heavier weight feels right with this particular club. I think if you can do this sort of experiment with a driver that has removable weights, it's helpful since you can adjust the swing weight down at the head, which is the better way to do it if available.
That should help but unfortunately this driver head has no weight adjustments like the 2013 RBZ stage 2. I have no objection using lead tape, unless there's a more elegant solution, but no idea how much weight to use. Best guess it's a D-2. Maybe I can get golf galaxy or someone to put it on a scale.
Hi again. On a related swing weight matter how important is a consistent total club weight progression? While my irons swing weight is about the same at D3 the progression is all over the map.
Not much difference. Little quicker to use some of the more expensive ones but the mechanism is so simple that there any much real difference. The digital ones are far faster but really only useful for busy shops.
No. They can all be different however all your irons should be similar and most people like the wedges to be slightly higher. Woods should be treated as their own entity as should driver itself so matching SW there may or may not work best for the golfer.
This video is meaningless without an explanation of how changing swing weights effects the club during a swing... What are the benefits, why would you want to change swing weight, what type of golfer would benefit going from a D3 to a D7 swing weight??? You assume we know what you are talking about...
Sorry, just saw this comment. Somehow it got lost. Swing weight will affect each golfer differently. Some will be more sensitive to it than others. There is no optimum weight although most brands choose to keep their clubs in the D0-D3 range. Best way to figure it out for yourself is go to the range with some lead tape and try adding a bit to the head. Pay attention to your strike location on the face and the consistency of your ball flight. If you want to experiment with lighter, get a mid iron and choke down the grip a half inch. This isn't ideal since you are also changing the length but it will also lighten the SW, and since you can't easily remove weight from a head unless you have movable weights or screws in a wood, it's the best option.
@@EFGMC After watching your driver fitting video I've had much better success.. took an inch of the shaft, added 6grams of weight to it, then 4 to the heel of my SIM driver, pushed the weight to centre and now hit it much better from the middle with my bad one being low heel in the face.. Great content, keep it up.
Nice investigation! I am curious if you have ever looked into Wishon’s work on swing weight and MOI. In particular he talks about varying your swing weights 1/2 a weight in between clubs I.e. 5 iron D1, 6 iron D1.5, 7 iron D2, etc. I love to hear to episode on what you find and any recommendations.
I have done a few MOI matched sets for people including myself progressing swing weight by .6 through the set. I know some people swear by it but I found it to be not for me. Wasn't worse really but definitely wasn't better. I found better results with modified shaft lengths (1/4 inch progression).
@@EFGMC tell me more about the lengths. Typically they are 1/2” between clubs. Are you talking about changing this? How do you come up with the correct measurement?
@@richardchristensen7258 Basically did a hybrid between traditional 1/2 inch and one length and came up with 1/4 based off a standard 6 iron of 37.5 inches. Played them for about a year. Liked the longer short irons, felt more comfortable over them. I also know some people who do a 3/8 increment because it more or less mirrors a MOI matched set without needing much SW alteration. One of the great things about golf, there are no hard and fast rules, try different things and see what results come from them.
I think people need to understand that not all clubs that measure D3 or D2 or whatever the SW is will feel the same. Different shaft weights, different head weights or grip weights all affect the SW number. So just saying my last club was D3 so I want my new one to be D3 will not get you the same feeling club, unless of course all the same components of your old club are used in your new club.
i put lead tape whole wrap under my grip on my driver everyone says it feels light hahahahahhaa i said its a E6 swing weight..I got the idea from a trainer club i got.... the grip was weighted.... i said hmmmm would this work on driver an it did helps swing through the ball..i out drive the young bucks an they say looks like you not swinging at all so smooth
i dont understand how you got the oppisite effect than i did with lead tape under my grip the swing weight went from d1 to e6 i have this same scale..but i understand why people thinks my driver is light cause the weight is under the hands not out on the head
If anyone is interested in building their own SW machine, Dave Tutelman and myself designed some very easy to build SW machines that pretty much anyone can build. Just go to Dave's website(tutelman.com for the plans).
@@EFGMC Yes Dave has done a lot of work and has some great articles on his site for every golfer. Much as Tom Wishon's videos and books are worth watching and buying. I've had some great talks with both of these great golf minds, even though they don't always agree with each other on some things, ha-ha.
@@wally6193 It's an incredible collection of knowledge between them. Though to be honest, my video explaining adjustable hosels is way better than Tom's. 😃😃
I believe the reason that the swing weights change by the same amount when added to the grip end is because because the fulcrum point is in the same place for each club, whereas, on the head end of the club, the length of the club can be closer to or further from the fulcrum point and the added weight will be felt more the longer the club is.
this is correct. swingweight at the end of the day is just a torque value which involves force and distance that force is away from the fulcrum. the fulcrum being defined as 14" from the butt means that the only way to change the swingweight with the same dummyweight would be to move it relative to the fulcrum
Thanks Ajay for explaining the difference between adding weight to different ends of the club.
Swing weight is another term for the balance point of the club. Feel vs. real. If you adjust the loft sleeve on an adjustable club to flatten the lie angle, you essentially are making the club longer dynamically and making the club feel heavier because you changed the balance point of the club. It'll add roughly 1.2 swing weight points to the club.It's funny how physics works.
As a grip experiment, I have two Mavrik drivers, both with the same shaft. However, one has the stock standard size grip and the other I’ve installed a midsize grip. What started as a comparison to see which grip I liked better has turned into an experiment which has introduced swing weight variables. I had no idea until I watched this video. Thank you so much. BTW, I get more distance with the midsize grip setup and now I understand why.
Excellent video. I'm going to buy one of these to correct my Mizuno irons before the season starts. They feel very head light and i think its because of the multicompound Mcc grips, which are quite heavy, lowering the swing weight.
mcc are basically 10g heavier then the stock thin grips mizuno came with, I have lowered a 7 irons swing weight to c8 by changing to such grip.
@@humorss Something else you might want to look at: M.O.I. weighting of irons. To do that each shorter iron is 0.65 swing weight point heavier than the next lower numbered club. In other words, if the 5 iron is D3, the 7 iron should be D4.3. This sis supposed to make every iron hav the same swing feel throughout the set. Mine are that way and I like them better. I bought irons covers to protect the lead tape I used to do this.
Thanks a lot for this analysis. I am going to add butt weight on my irons to lower swing weight accurately rather than disassemble and grind down the head! Great!!
Dear Mobile Clubmaker,
Having just had a club fitting and tried a Srixen and a Ping G425 the guy that tested me came up with a combination of the following:-
Ping G425 irons 5 to PW for £877 and a 54° and a 60° Ping Glide 4.0 wedges for £147 each. All set at orange for 2° Flat.
Shafts were Alta CB 75gm Graphite regular standard length.
Mid size Grips as opposed to standard (which help me stop pushing left through over active wrists)
There were tangible differences between my current standard lie Callaway X14's with graphite standard flex shafts to make the change, however before I do invest I really want to look at another option which is to match as close I can to the recommended profile and alter a new second hand set of Taylormade RBZ Rocketballz irons with standard steel shafts.
At the moment I don't know the swing weight of the recommended solution. Will finding this out enable me to create a reasonable match to the Fitting Profile suggested if I also change the lie angle of the Taylormade RBZ Rocketballz irons to 2° flat and change the grip size? Can you actually change the lie angle on the Taylormade RBZ Rocketballz irons?
Many thanks.
Mike
Those fitted clubs will be pretty grip heavy between the CB shaft and the midsize grip. That is probably the biggest difference between the sets and of course steel vs graphite. Though I believe the Rocketballz have sub 90g steel stock so not a huge change.
The lie angle will really come down to the starting line of your ball. That's the difference from lie angle. The short irons will show the biggest difference in start line due to an incorrect lie angle. I did a video about this way back but you might check it out.
th-cam.com/video/Dz7Cwk77394/w-d-xo.html
Awsome chanel! Ordered a set with standaard length after bingewqtching the Chanel and going to year them apart and build them back up with new shafts, grijs and swingweights. Project time 😃
Fantastic. Let me know how they turn out.
Hello, I'm about to fit my Mizuno MP-52 with Fijikura Vista Pro 60i graphite shafts with Super Stoke midsize grips that weigh more or less 49g according to the manufacturer. My question is, what swing weight should I put on them? If I could tell you how much weight I should put on the tip of the shaft approximately, you are the expert, please advise me, thank you.
Totally depends on the length you plan to play them at.
Very informative video - thank you. Being a former competitive tennis player, and hockey player, I have recently found Midsized +4 Grips and recently tried a friends jumbo grip - and liked it even more - just so much easier to put force into the club when you can get your Right hand properly on the grip (I even switched to a 10-finger grip last year and now will never go back). Hopefully, there will be more Midsized and Jumbo Grip offers in the 50gram range in the coming years - for now, I've gotten used to mid-C swing weights
That's the trick as it's hard to get that much material on a grip without the weight jumping up. Jumbo Winn grips used to be the lightest, not even sure what is lightest these days.
I just bought Jumbo Max grips and their UltraLight only weigh 35-50 grams demoing on the size.
My wife's irons are C8, and she wants heavier like D2. Her shafts are Mitsubishi MMT graphite. How would you add enough internal weight? I put lead tape on the heads, but it looks terrible.
I would start out with lead tape for no other reason than it's fast and temporary. Would make sure that D2 is really what she likes. Start out just adding a piece or two at a time to the head until she gets the feel she likes. Then I would keep it there for at least for a few rounds to make sure it's working the way she wants.
At that point if she is happy with it, you can either keep the tape on there, or break the clubs down and add tip weights to get back to that decided swing weight. Tungsten powder isn't a good option since the tips are so narrow with graphite. I am not sure what the interior tip diameter is on the MMTs as I have only dealt with one set and they were 130g TX flex so unlikely apples to apples. Assuming the tip is wide enough for tip weights, that will be the only option if lead tape is no good. Only other option would be to go longer on shaft length or get different heads that are heavier.
You have to remember that increasing the overall weight of her clubs may hamper her swing towards the end of the round just because of fatigue setting in. If you can keep the total weight of the club the same while changing the SW then it might not be as bad.
Thanks for the help
If heard mentioned “C5”, D1. What does that mean and how do I determine what I need? And what if I changed my grips?
What you want is all your irons for example to be the same swing weight. As far as what swing weight is best, you really need to go out to the range with your clubs and some lead tape and start playing around with different head weights.
Great video on the results of adding weight to head and Butt-end of a club.
I have added some lead tape to mu etc driver head. I have adjusted the optimal to stated loft and draw setting. It. hits straight and fairly long( for me). I'm a lefty.
I am adding a 1 inch extension to a Callaway 3 Hybrid that I feel uncomfortable swinging as I feel that it is too short. I know that the addition of a one inch extension will add weight but have no idea how much as I have not yet ordered those. I can weight them when they come but all of that weight will not be just at the butt-end, I assume it will be spread over perhaps 3 inches,( down the shaft).
I have no idea what the current swing weight of the club is however it feels very head heavy.
I also understand from other of your videos that I can purchase weights that will fit in the butt end of the shaft to help balance the club a bit more.
So as you can see I have a lot of "starter" information but I'm not at all sure where all of these additions will take me.
I do not have access to equipment like yours so for calculating Swing Weight. Do I just start with a change to the length and feel how that swing feels, then decide to add a weight ( I wonder how much? ) , then try swinging again, then if OK redo my grip and hope for the best?
Harvey
A 1 inch extension will add about 6 swing weight points to a club. The static weight change will only be a few grams with a graphite shaft extension.
I personally don't ever love adding grip end weight for the sole purpose of lowering the swing weight. In the end you are adding to the total weight just to hit a certain swing weight number. So unless you know you like heavier overall club weights, you might not want to add too much grip end weight.
Like you said, I would start with the extension and no other changes and go hit it over a week or so to give you enough time to get used to it. Then you can decide if you want to start changing weight.
@@EFGMC Thank You!
Great video, thanks. My irons are half inch longer. Is D3 a kind of standard SW for this club length? D2 is too low?
D2 to D3 is very minimal. What feels best will be personal preference. D2 is pretty standard for a steel shafted, standard length iron set with standard 50g grips.
New subscriber. Love the simplicity of your presentation.
You could drive yourself nuts with the adjustments.
I recently had a fitting for new irons. Couple of interesting observations.
Your fitting will vary day to day as your swing changes and I noticed more “feel” difference between the quality of the strikes than between clubs.( 4 hdcp , playing 50 years)
Makes me wonder how many swing points change would an average golfer actually start to notice.
Going to be different for each golfer. Also not sure if better golfers will always notice more. I've had some golfers who were way off on what they thought they were playing and they were scratch. Just got to get out to the range with a roll of lead tape and start experimenting.
Thanks for the support.
@@EFGMC your attention to your viewers will serve you well.
When installing a tip weight do you float the inserted part or epoxy it into the shaft tip?
Usually just put a small amount of epoxy across the shaft tip before I insert the weight. Not really necessary since it is locked in between the shaft and bottom of hosel but a little epoxy to cushion the sides of the weight can't hurt.
That's a cool looking sword you have above the white board
Thanks. My club making machete.
Should a fully fitted set have all clubs the same swing weight? Heavier SW for faster swing, lighter SW for slower swing?
They should unless the set was made with something different like MOI matching.
I have that same machete and always have it in my golf bag :)
Exactly
ok, so far we all realize that the Swingweight changes depending on the weight on the head or on the Grip, and for me it's nothing more than codes that someone gave to the measuring instrument, now practice is what counts, how do I know if I'm D1, D2, D3 etc etc, that's what interests me to know, the effect it has, because when I'm doing a Fitting, what is the fitter based on to say that I'm D1 or D3?
My point is the idea of "needing" D1 vs D3 is far less important than any number of other variables. Swing weight is a measurement developed to ensure a set of irons have a consistent balance to them. That's what it's meant to do. It should not be used as a basic fitting spec like shaft length or grip size.
The club components used (both weights and lengths) will be the guiding factor in where the swing weight can and should be.
Good Afternoon Mobile Clubmaker! I have the same swingweight scale, bought it second hand. Is there any calibration that needs to be done before taking swingweights or is it just making sure it is level? Thanks!
Leveling it is the most important calibration. Nothing else there should really ever go out of spec to throw off the readings.
If I may ask. I swing weighted my club using the tdgcummings calculator. Driver E 0.9, 3 wood C 9.4, 5 wood 3.5, 4 iron C 9.1, 5 iron C 8.0, 6 iron C 8.5, 7 iron 9.8, 8 iron 0.5, 9 iron 9.4, PW D 0.2, GW C 8.9, SW C 8.3, 60° wedge C 7.7. It looks like the weights are inconsistent. I bought the components from Golf works and I'm an amateur builder. Any advice. Thank you.
Most of those look to be within a point or so which is fine. Driver seems like the biggest issue.
Thank you. The driver is a Taylor Made R-1. I'm thinking of building a Maltby driver. The other clubs are Maltby STi2 irons and fairway woods. Great job on the videos. They have been invaluable.
I got the driver to C 9.5. I added weight to the grip end
@@davidweiss3367 Make sure you like the new feel of it because you have now added weight in order to reduce weight feel, ie counterbalancing. Might work great but just be aware it won't be the same as reducing head weight or shortening the club length.
I am changing grips and they are jumbo grips that weigh 117 grams. This appears it will change my swing weight significantly and I am wondering what that will do to my swing and ball flight/distance?
Your guess is as good as mine. That is a major change in both swing weight and static weight. No way to know what that will do to your swing until you try it out.
Hi AJ,
Im a fan of the channel and your content and Im starting to tinker with my clubs now that i have a better understanding of my swing tendencies.
i wanted to ask you what would be the minimum weight i should remove from a club (as a whole) to have a noticeable difference and how many swing weight levels should i drop to draw some kind of limit. I enjoy experimentation but i want to minimize the waste of resources
Depends where you are moving weight from. The head will be the most dramatic so as little as a couple grams might be noticed depending on golfer.
Hello. Thanks for the great informative videos you produce.
I question if you don’t mind.
If I’m cutting off 1.5 inches off the grip end on a 6 iron then what swing weight adjustment must I do to keep it the same swing weight. Thank you in advance.
That would drop the SW 9 points so you would need 18g of head weight added back to return to original SW.
liked it before waching!
Your explanation of SW is excellent! I will disagree on how you use MOI weighting. MOI weighting is meant to be the same across all irons (excluding wedges).
Right. Did I say differently in the video? Don't recall.
I agree.
As always, fascinating subject matter . I'm thinking of increasing the SW of my cavity back irons. I've stuck self adhesive lead tape inside the cavity and really pleased with the result.
However, the tape keeps coming loose what with impact, sand, dirt, water etc.
Is there anyway of Inc SW without adhesive lead tape or removing the head?
Thanks
The other option is to get tungsten powder that you pour down the shaft and then plug with a small epoxied cork. Does require removing the grips to do.
I like the basic roll of lead tape, if you make sure the area is clean, dry, and not too cold when applying, it should stay put for a long long time.
do you think a lighter head is better than a stander head.i have a ping 425 at 202 grms and two shafts the stock shaft at 114grms and a tensi shaft reg flex at 141 grams i am 73 so what do you think. most all new clubs are at 195 grams. i still hit the ball 200 220. what would be better. i know loadeed question. thank you art
That head weight change is pretty small by itself. Really depends what length you are wanting to play the club at. Lighter will allow a longer length which could give more distance.
@@EFGMC thank you art
For a true grip weight change, why didn’t I put weight on middle of grip?
Love the channel
Question: if I have a overall weight of driver and I switch out driver shaft for 3 wood shaft but the weight of the shaft is heavier and I reweigh the driver and total weight is identical does the swing weight stay the same also? ( driver shaft was 60g stiff and 3 wood shaft is 75g stiff. Head weight is constant)
Thanks
Thanks
Basic rule is 9g of shaft weight change = 1 swing weight point. So we would say in your case it gets 2 pts higher. But shortening the club = 3 SWPs per 1/2 inch so if you go from 45in to 43in, we are looking at 12 SWP decrease. Put these two things together and we should see 10pt decrease.
This also assumes that the balance point is the same in both shaft, as that can alter swing weight.
Very likely you will need to add some weight back to the head to make the weight closer to a 3 wood head weight.
Quick question. Does your swingweight scale fit in Jumbomax grips on the butt end ?
I don't know! Haven't had to measure one. Even if it didn't you could just attach it above the back stop with a rubber band, and get same measurement.
hi AJ! what options do i have to lighten the swing weight of an iron, besides putting on a heavy grip?
Lighter shaft, shorter shaft, removing weight from the head. Those are the options.
If I add an inch extension to the butt end of my driver, will that increase or decrease swing weight?
Increase SW about 7 pts.
@@EFGMC thanks
What’s most troubling is not the swingweight, but the heavily used machete in the background
This shows the shortcomings of swingweighting. For example, if I add a steel shaft extension to an iron, the weight of the extension part that inserts in the shaft weights about 6 grams. This reduces the swingweight by 1.5. So should 3 grams be added to the head to bring SW back ? I argue, no, as the extension part inside the shaft has nearly no effect on MOI. Also, let’s assume a golfer wears a wedding ring that weighs 6 grams. This weight is in the same position as the inserted part of the extension. Should this golfer add 3 grams to the head to compensate? Clearly not.
Hi, can anyone help me with this. I recently bought a mizuno st190 3 wood. I wanted to change the shaft but when I took it into the shop I was told the swing weight was still in the head of the club after shaft removal. I took it to a mizuno fitting shop and he couldn't remove it, any tips on how to remove it before I condemn it to the bin, thanks
Not sure what you mean by swing weight?
@@EFGMC well according to the pro I took it to he said a swing weight that should have come out with the shaft had been left in the head of the club, he tried removing it with a drill bit but couldn't get it out so its lodged where I'd want to put the shaft in. I'm not sure how much sense that would make to you but that's how he's worded it to me!
I am re-shafting a friends’ irons from the stock 85 gram shafts to some 98 gram ones. I assume that the swing weight will change from stock due to the heavier shafts (I’ll use the online calculators that you’ve referenced to find out). Is my main concern when checking the swing weights that they are consistent, rather than that they are similar to the old stock swing weight?
Exactly. Don't feel tied to an old SW number. Most important is that they have similar balance. They most likely will get heavier and that's okay.
Awesome, thank you so much for replying to my comment on this old video. Also thank you for making these videos, your instruction is what has given me the confidence to take on this project. You are my go to resource on this topic. Keep it up!
Hey AJ! question - I have an old set of Hogan's and I finally scored a PW head on eBay that matches the set. I had an extra hogan apex shaft that I cut down about an inch to get to standard length. But it is coming in at like a C5 swingweight using an online estimator and after some experimenting it seems like i need to add 16g to the head to get it to D0-D1. This seems extreme to me, does this sound right? Am I going about this incorrectly? And 16g plug weights aren't easy to come by. thanks!!
The online estimators aren't always great. Confused how you are getting C5, assuming the rest are all around D1? Is something different, (ie shaft, head weight).
@@EFGMC thanks for the reply! PW head = 283g (the 6i head = 256g). Shaft = 114g, grip=49g. The shaft was a pullout from a longer club that i cut down. I measured the cutoff = 1 1/8". The balance point is 26 15/16" from the butt with the club temporarily assembled. Would it be because i cut a longer shaft down that much? I taped 16g of coins to the head to get the swingweight up to D0-1 using the estimator.
@@chrish4723 Could be. Other option would be to find a comparable current wedge shaft and use that instead.
Very useful explanation!!! I would have your suggestion about wedge swing weight ... I recently put on my wedge Taylormade MG2 (50°, 54° and 58°) project X 6.0 +0.5" to have a more heavier and stable shaft. Now the result is an high swing weight (D7 to D9) and a high ball flight, in all 3 wedges compare with my set of iron (Mizuno jpx921 forged, NSPro Modus3 tour 105s, +0.5", +1 step hard, D3/D4). So, I have a swing weight scale and I would like to make a test on my 50° grinding it in order to decrease swing weight ... which is your best swing weight value for wedges? (gap, sand and lob).
I personally like them a point or 2 heavier than the irons.
The pivot point of the gizmo is much further down the shaft than the pivot point of a shaft being swung, which is between the hands, about 5 inch from butt end. I don't think measurements of the gizmo provide useful information?
One of the issues I always run into is removing swing weight once the club is all built. Any tips or suggestions?
After the club is assembled, not much you can do. Drilling weight ports is an option but not really a good one for most people. Definitely don't put on a heavier grip as some people will say. Then you just end up with a higher static weight.
Best option is always swing weight the club dry fit before epoxy so you can adjust as needed. Then you can drill down into the hosel to reduce weight. Also gives you a chance to rethink your shaft and length choices.
I should clarify any tips or suggestions on adding weight to the grip end to reduce the swing weight?
@@richardchristensen7258 Lead tape around the shaft. Plug weights that go into the shaft. Heavier grip. Just be aware that all of these are making the club heavier even though the SW will show lighter. I would only go this route if you know you like heavier clubs with lighter SW values.
looking to re shafting my apex cf19 with Fujikura 95i iron graphite shaft. they claim on their web site that their irons will let the club maker to achieve the swing weight of the customer desire. without adding lead tape or any additional material. I play my club already a half inch from standard. will they still have to add some weight to the head to get a D2? and will I have to use a different weighted shaft for wedges to get my desire swing weight? thanks for the your knowledge.
Sorry, is Fuji talking about the swing weight or Callaway?
In either case it will depend on what shafts are currently being used as far as what will happen to the swing weight with the new shaft. Not sure of the balance point on the Fuji 95 as that will play a large roll.
@@EFGMC fuji website was claiming that you can achieve any swing weight and flex to any build using their shaft and reviews on you tube with their reps. thanks for your input.
@@roberteustaquio7614 Yeah. That's marketing nonsense.
I’d like to get iron/rescue clubs an inch shorter and lighter shaft what adjustments if any are required to swing weight/lie? Any other considerations or do the manufacturers adjust for this?
The lie will play flatter in most cases when going shorter assuming you don't change your posture during the swing. SW will drop around 6 points for the length and an additional pt for every 9 grams of shaft weight you remove. This however also assumes the balance point of the shaft doesn't change. Not sure how much OEMs will adjust for it with hybrids upon request. Might need to ask the specific one you're considering.
@@EFGMC thanks for the information
Have you ever altered the swing weight on G425 irons? Have you found anywhere that sells the screws at a different weights or do you only add weight to the bottom of the shaft? Great videos mate
I have only used shaft tip weights. Never seen different weight screws. Also you would be adding the weight only to the extreme toe end which could be good or very bad depending on the golfer.
AJ…I was fitted for clubs and then decided to add Arccos sensors to the end of my clubs. They are 8oz each. I don’t have a scale like yours, I’ve been using the measuring method from the video you did on using calculators. My question is do I need to add the 1/2 inch to the length of the club that the Arccos sensor adds, even though you don’t grip that far out on the club?
They are not 8oz each.... Maybe 8g
Lol! Whoops! Yes. 8g.
Great video. I'm curious why the fulcrum on seeing weight scales is always 14" from the butt end. What is the significance of that point? It's not half the club length (based on 37") and it's well below my lower hand position.
Oops typo! That should read "swing weight scales".
It's just how someone made it all those years ago. Not sure of the exact significance of 14 inches. Really only important that it is always that same 14 inches.
hi AJ, I'm about to get a Dynamic Gold AMT X100 on my new irons. My question is: why do not a lot of player play ascending weight irons? The concept makes so much sense to me, I'm wondering why it's not popular.
I've seen a fair number of sets out there. Don't really see them on tour but 75% is Tour Issue Dynamic Gold so don't see a lot of much else.
Hi AJ,
Still beavering away on my shaft research.
I love watching this one as I find it fascinating.
I have actually gone forward and re-shafted my AP2 712 7 iron from a DG R300 to a DG 105 R300.
Looking at the TT shaft specs and the cut weights I was expecting a reduction in overall weight in the order of 26g. I only got 18g.
The pre re-shaft swing weight however came out at D0.5. During the re-shafting to the lighter shaft, I ensured it came back up to the standard of D2.
I assume that the added weight to bring the swingweight up to D2 from D0.5 could explain some or all of the 8g reduction in overall weight that I didn't achieve.
Would I be assuming correctly?
My other query is, what is a machete doing perched on your white board?
Think you're right on the weight if you had to add some tip weight. Also the tolerances on DG shafts is + - 2g so that could be part of issue.
As to your other question, why wouldn't I keep a machete perched on my wall?
@@EFGMC You cut old grips off with it?
Very nice! Just keep up the good work, it´s valuable for us. I have a question about swing weight. I have a driver that I cut on the butt to have a total length of 43.5 in. My swing coach told me to add lead tape on the head to restore the original SW of D3 otherwise it would be unplayable. I didn't! My driver has SW of C4. And to my surprise (my coach too) it is the best driver I ever had. It is long, straight and reliable. So my question is: what SW is all about? It is supposedly an unplayable club at SW C4 but it is the best I ever had. Can you explain it? Thanks and take care.
I can. SW was originally designed to make sure all your irons had a similar "feel". Was never really meant to be applied equally to all clubs. Therefore you can't assume that even if you like D2 in your irons, it's any guarantee that your driver will be the same. Also don't assume that if you liked your driver at D3 and 45 inches, that you would automatically like D3 at 43.5
SW is different for everyone, how they sense it, and how it affects their swing.
@@EFGMC Thank you so much for your explanation. That takes out of my mind a lot of heretical thoughts. What really matters is that I'm hitting the second shots from places I've never hit before, much closer to the green. Thanks again.
“Where the hosel meets the sole (soul)” is what I’m going to start calling shanks
What is the swing weight usted for?
Swing weight is a representation of the balance of a golf club. Really only useful for irons to ensure that all the irons have a similar feel.
Could you explain what SW variation translates to, other than the feel of weight, in terms of performance for the average golfer ? Thank you !
More head weight may change the golfers swing sequencing however each golfer will be different. More head weight will also cause the shaft to feel more flexible. Some will prefer this while others won't. Can't really say how an individual golfer will react until they try different swing weights.
Thank you for the answer. I gather that there are quite a few variables involved here and this is why I think you could make a video explaining the principles involved. I've heard, for instance, that manufacturers will adopt a given SW chosen according to the target player they destined a given club - lighter for beginners and heavier for scratch players. But that is the point, as about all golf players, I just don't know the truth from the myth on such topic. Si I call out to Super AJ ! Regards !@@EFGMC
The knife above the blackboard ... what is it for ?!!! 😂😂😂😂 ... 👍😉 ... ☠☠☠
Every good shop needs a machete.🔪
This is a very interesting video. Would my plan for fitting my 2019 RBZ driver ruin it? Adding a 1.5" graphite extension and a midsize grip has to be way more than 10 grams. The mid grip alone is 6-10g more without it hanging farther off the end.
So you would be looking at 10 swing weight points change from the length. The grip would drop it back 2 SWP but still makes the overall club weight heavier.
That said, you may find the heavier weight feels right with this particular club. I think if you can do this sort of experiment with a driver that has removable weights, it's helpful since you can adjust the swing weight down at the head, which is the better way to do it if available.
That should help but unfortunately this driver head has no weight adjustments like the 2013 RBZ stage 2. I have no objection using lead tape, unless there's a more elegant solution, but no idea how much weight to use. Best guess it's a D-2. Maybe I can get golf galaxy or someone to put it on a scale.
@@billchuplis9460 If you want to check it at home.
th-cam.com/video/sJALUBr51jI/w-d-xo.html
Hi again. On a related swing weight matter how important is a consistent total club weight progression?
While my irons swing weight is about the same at D3 the progression is all over the map.
Can you comment on swing weight scales? What am I gaining with a "premium" scale vs an "economy" scale as a DIYer?
Not much difference. Little quicker to use some of the more expensive ones but the mechanism is so simple that there any much real difference. The digital ones are far faster but really only useful for busy shops.
IM YOUR 1000 subscriber
Awesome. Thanks for taking me over this first hurdle.
Should all your clubs have the same swing weight?
No. They can all be different however all your irons should be similar and most people like the wedges to be slightly higher. Woods should be treated as their own entity as should driver itself so matching SW there may or may not work best for the golfer.
This video is meaningless without an explanation of how changing swing weights effects the club during a swing... What are the benefits, why would you want to change swing weight, what type of golfer would benefit going from a D3 to a D7 swing weight??? You assume we know what you are talking about...
How does swing weight affect your golf swing? and is d3 the optimum weight? new to all this.
Sorry, just saw this comment. Somehow it got lost. Swing weight will affect each golfer differently. Some will be more sensitive to it than others. There is no optimum weight although most brands choose to keep their clubs in the D0-D3 range.
Best way to figure it out for yourself is go to the range with some lead tape and try adding a bit to the head. Pay attention to your strike location on the face and the consistency of your ball flight. If you want to experiment with lighter, get a mid iron and choke down the grip a half inch. This isn't ideal since you are also changing the length but it will also lighten the SW, and since you can't easily remove weight from a head unless you have movable weights or screws in a wood, it's the best option.
@@EFGMC After watching your driver fitting video I've had much better success.. took an inch of the shaft, added 6grams of weight to it, then 4 to the heel of my SIM driver, pushed the weight to centre and now hit it much better from the middle with my bad one being low heel in the face.. Great content, keep it up.
@@willo283 Great to hear. Happy your driver is working for you. Mine is still being less cooperative!
My inner old wants u to start withe the wedge and go up lol
Nice investigation! I am curious if you have ever looked into Wishon’s work on swing weight and MOI. In particular he talks about varying your swing weights 1/2 a weight in between clubs I.e. 5 iron D1, 6 iron D1.5, 7 iron D2, etc. I love to hear to episode on what you find and any recommendations.
I have done a few MOI matched sets for people including myself progressing swing weight by .6 through the set. I know some people swear by it but I found it to be not for me. Wasn't worse really but definitely wasn't better. I found better results with modified shaft lengths (1/4 inch progression).
@@EFGMC tell me more about the lengths. Typically they are 1/2” between clubs. Are you talking about changing this? How do you come up with the correct measurement?
@@richardchristensen7258 Basically did a hybrid between traditional 1/2 inch and one length and came up with 1/4 based off a standard 6 iron of 37.5 inches. Played them for about a year. Liked the longer short irons, felt more comfortable over them. I also know some people who do a 3/8 increment because it more or less mirrors a MOI matched set without needing much SW alteration. One of the great things about golf, there are no hard and fast rules, try different things and see what results come from them.
@@EFGMC did you keep swing weights consistent?
@@richardchristensen7258 Not with the hybrid setup. It was progressive.
Should you play the same swing weight across all of your clubs..?
Personal preference. Some like everything the same, some like a progression going heavier into the shorter clubs.
Bit worried about the machete on the wall! What does this guy do when he's not fitting golf clubs? 😬😅
I think people need to understand that not all clubs that measure D3 or D2 or whatever the SW is will feel the same. Different shaft weights, different head weights or grip weights all affect the SW number. So just saying my last club was D3 so I want my new one to be D3 will not get you the same feeling club, unless of course all the same components of your old club are used in your new club.
Well said. You can have 2 D2 clubs with completely different static weight, lengths, etc, and that will often result in totally different results.
i put lead tape whole wrap under my grip on my driver everyone says it feels light hahahahahhaa i said its a E6 swing weight..I got the idea from a trainer club i got.... the grip was weighted.... i said hmmmm would this work on driver an it did helps swing through the ball..i out drive the young bucks an they say looks like you not swinging at all so smooth
i dont understand how you got the oppisite effect than i did with lead tape under my grip the swing weight went from d1 to e6 i have this same scale..but i understand why people thinks my driver is light cause the weight is under the hands not out on the head
how much weight i added i never figure it out but its a lot with a whole wrap length of grip
How heavy is the head and what is the length?
How much does your driver head weight, with the hosel, and what is the length of your driver, because your story dont add up
@@EFGMC 48 inches taylormade m5
Where you went went wrong is suggesting their is a standard when there is not.
I meant there not their......just in case a grammar expert is watching.
If anyone is interested in building their own SW machine, Dave Tutelman and myself designed some very easy to build SW machines that pretty much anyone can build. Just go to Dave's website(tutelman.com for the plans).
Love his site. So much great info on it.
@@EFGMC Yes Dave has done a lot of work and has some great articles on his site for every golfer. Much as Tom Wishon's videos and books are worth watching and buying. I've had some great talks with both of these great golf minds, even though they don't always agree with each other on some things, ha-ha.
@@wally6193 It's an incredible collection of knowledge between them. Though to be honest, my video explaining adjustable hosels is way better than Tom's. 😃😃
@@EFGMC Yes your explanation was very good too.