Try a Vintage Oilstone! Washita is a GREAT option 👍.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- You only need one stone to hone with. Really, it's true! Having a progression of grits in hand plastic cases is ok, but there is a lot to be said for a traditional oilstone.
Take a look at David Weaver's work on honing and oilstones / daw162
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I got a couple arks that need a box like yours. Thanks for the idea.
No worries, enjoy them 👍
The internet DOES need sharpening videos! Thanks!
@@larrycampbell7442 No worries, happy to have added another.
I read that when Washitas arrived in the UK towards the end of the 19 century they swept the market amongst carpenters and joiners. They were just so much faster than anything else and also no two were exactly the same. I find that chisels and plane irons seem made for Washitas and as you say there is something about oil, stone and steel. On the other hand knives seem to like water and Japanese ceramics.
Yeah, mine's quite a slow cutting stone. Works well on a small secondary bevel. I know I like it, but then others like a jig and a waterstone. Ultimately it doesn't matter 👍
Silicon carbide lapping grit is very fast, 20 minutes tops, to flatten an old oilstone of any kind. Since it's used with water or oil, there's no need to breath the silica dust created with other methods of lapping.
Excellent point. I don't have any stones that need attention for a while but I'll bear it in mind for the next time.
I have two of those in boxes looking exactly like yours. Maybe the same person who made them because I bought them both from GB. They are perfect for the old steel tools. They sharpen fast and quite well. Just thinking you are sharpening on a stone that some artisan one hundred years ago used is priceless. All you need is one of those washitas and a strop.
Hi! Yes, it's a common and pleasing design here. Like you, I enjoy the connection to our previous craftsmen 👌
I love the boxes you made ! Awesome done.
Thanks Peter!
I have 3 diamond stones but recently got a soft and black Arkansas stone and I love the “feel” of the natural stones. I still use my diamonds if I have to take a slight chip or ding out, but love using the natural stones to finish off my honing before stroping.
I have a lot of diamond plates but I only use a thousand grit one to sharpen with. That's because I keep a hollow ground primary bevel and I touch edges up before they get really dull. So when I sharpen I'm really not removing a lot of material. Just a few passes does it. I've taken to using a honing guide anymore so I really don't care what things feel like. That whole feel thing is more important when you're freehanding. Which I used to do. I found it to be too inconsistent and fatiguing. Guides may be cheating but if you don't cheat then you don't eat. Remember, it's not how you play the game it's winning that counts!
Hi TWC, I'm with you! The durability and feel of a natural oilstone is a real pleasure 😊.
@@faceedgewoodworking quit feeling rocks you pervert
Gimme that type of stone all day long
It's a sweetheart 👌
I got seriously lucky about a year ago at a car boot with a 14" x 2 1/2 to 3" tapered Charnley forest stone for the princely sum of 50p. The seller said that someone had bought the case but didn't want the 'dirty old stone' in it, so knocked it out and left it behind ! ....... wish I could get that lucky that every week, but a shame I didn't get there half an hour earlier and get the box too ;>) ..... having said that, I am normally there before 5am most Sundays. Yesterday I got a Hindostan [ Indiana, US. natural siltstone ] 8 1/2 x 2 1/4" along with full set of cutters for a combination plane .... all for a couple of quid. That stone is very gummed up with crusty old oil and iron swarf and needs a serious de-greasing before flattening- any suggestions as to the best way to deep clean the black 'gunk' ??
There's a lot of variability with natural stones and availability is limited today. You're lucky you got a good one. They also don't work too well with harder modern alloy steels either. Some tools today are just too hard. So because of all of that I've switched to synthetic diamond plates today myself. No fuss and no muss. Diamonds are always flat and they cut everything. Know where to get them and they're cheap too. I get mine straight out of China off Aliexpress. I pay $6.36 for a 9" x 3" plate. It won't last forever. I get a few years out of one before it wears out. The cheap plates are polycrystalline. So the diamonds break down. But when they're good they can't be beat. Oh, you want the continuous type one. Just 1,000 grit is all you need to sharpen with. Coarser grits can be handy for other uses. I know a guy that reconditions a lot of oil stones and he flattens them on a belt sander. A real dust cloud blows off doing that so look out.
Yeah, I did the belt sander thing on a Charnley once!!. Definitely need an appropriate mask and extraction. For most woodworking edge tools I keep a small secondary bevel so it doesn't take too long on most steels.
I have tried diamonds, nothing wrong with them at all! Perhaps I'm sensitive, but they feel harsh to me. I like the smooth feel of a natural stone 👌.
I'll happily kiss a few 🐸 to get a nice one.
@@faceedgewoodworking with diamonds what you use as a lube has an impact on how they feel. I use a super cleaner called Purple Power. It's a Castrol Superclean knock off. It's super slippery. So it improves the glide honing. A lot of people use glass cleaner but that's not very slippery and it is very thin. So it gives a rough slide. Then a lot of diamond hones are those mesh pattern things and they're a bumpy road too. The continuous plates I use are smooth.
Then there's diamond matrix. A diamond matrix hone feels like a stone and cuts like diamond. But the material is expensive which attracts counterfeiters. The fake stuff is just silicon carbide. Any diamond matrix is only a percentage of diamond anyways. The fake stuff is a low percentage or none at all. But there's still folks that like even the fake matrix.
@@1pcfredGood info, Paul!
@@faceedgewoodworking sharpening and me go way back together. So it is a topic I've an obsessive interest in.
I always wondered what the pieces of extra wood at the ends of the stone on one of the boxes was. I assume it's just to give more surface area to lay the tool when sharpening I assume. I love the old washita stones and Arkansas stones.
I think that's the idea, just gives a bit more working surface. Really good stones and can be found quite easily at car boot sales etc.
@@faceedgewoodworking yes I’ve found many over the years but they don’t show up in the US too often. I made myself a box based on a really nice antique British oilstone box I saw on years ago, and it had those little pieces of wood. I’ve never seen that on an American oilstone box.
@@jeb419 I've had a few with them. Jim Kingshott shows them in his book on sharpening.
The extra wood pieces is to prevent uneven wear of the stone..
Lapping these hard stones is not fun, even less so before sic sandpaper or powder😉
How did you flatten it cheers.
You should start selling sharpening stone boxes you make yourself. 😉
Generally stone boxes need to be fitted to the stones they hold. So making them for resale is not practical to do. Anyone that wants a stone box is usually capable of making their own too. I know I've made a few myself. None as fancy as what's here though. Those curlicue feet are very stylish.
😂 If I become an internet sensation I'll farm my subscribers for needless tat they could make themselves.
Imagine that sentence with a Mr Burns Voice 😂
@@faceedgewoodworking tee shirts and mugs are where the real money's at.
@@1pcfredYou can have a complimentary mug when they become available 😂. T shir, £25, no discount!
@@faceedgewoodworking why thank you. I have a complimentary mug indeed. 😜