As always, I appreciate these interviews so much because they provide so much thoughtful perspective! I imagine the reason Peter had such a good day that next day was probably due to under-eating and being in a caloric deficit for the previous day. His body was more than likely excited about literally whatever he gave it, as long as it was enough calories to meet the needs of the day he had just had climbing. And I also imagine he had probably had not been feeding himself properly in that way for some time. I too have had times where I ate like total crap after climbing and felt amazing the next day, but if you look back, it's because I was giving my body the amount of calories it needed to recover properly. Thoughts?
Thanks for the kind words! Yeah I think your perspective here makes sense. Peter is so psyched on climbing he doesn’t bother with little things like eating when he’s out doing 2000 feet in an afternoon 😂
People underestimate the value of sugar with climbing. Glycogen is an important fuel source for ATP production in the anaerobic state of climbing. Many of the ultra crushers I meet, eat a lot of calories at the crag, much of it being carbs
As someone who cannot eat much period (GI disorder), I have learned that calories are incredibly important & that specific nutrition matters less than we think, if calories are out of whack. Very lean athletic people sometimes forget that they need a certain amount of energy, their bodies are not as invested in their strict diets as their minds. I do think that sports psychology is misused to achieve performance goals, while doing tremendous damage to the mind. I am definitely leery of people with extreme risk tolerance working in psychology, I'll be honest, i think it's a pathology.
Thanks to Emil Abrahamson recently telling the story of him gaining some weight, but becoming a stronger and healthier climber in the process, I have stopped restricting my weight to what I considered 'normal' and just ate as much as my body told me to. The gains were incredible. I've gained maybe 2kg in the past 2 months, but also increased my finger strength from 33mm to finally being able to hang 20mm BW, and also increasing my pull up from 130% to 140% BW. I realize now that I was under-fueling big time. I have more energy for my workouts, and thanks to that I can put in the work that lead to those gains.
I've found it's not the exception that makes the rule. You don't get in shape by eating one good meal a week, just like you don't get out of shape eating one 'bad' meal a week. Especially if one is super active. Like Peter, I found that a pint of B&J after a big day of climbing is great for my recovery. The rest of the week it's back to healthy meals without exception. Great discussion!
As someone who only eats ice cream when it comes to sweets, I can't relate to this at all. 😂 It's one of the things that I not only enjoy, but even look forward to.
@thestruggleclimbingshow looking at the composition of ruminant dairy fat and ruminant fat, we have the perfect composition for human health. 50/50 mono/sat fat with a 2:1 ratio of omega 6:omega 3. People are terrified of cholesterol, yet studies of centenarians shows that these few 1% have the highest total cholesterol. Cholesterol shows up where damage has occurred like firefighters to a blaze.
was probably in a calorie deficit for a very long time, body coudnt recover and with the extra calories it finally got what it needed. nothing to do with diet just energie
Well, it is always short term vs long term and non comp climbers vs comp climbers. For a normal person, if you eat super strict like keto diet you will see benefit next day or weeks. But for a comp climber, they compete for the whole year. Can they eat like this every day? Hell, no!!! Can they eat like this occasionally? I doubt it. Eating like this will shorten pro climbers competition life and their general life. But for a normal person who wants to push for a project, eating super strict for short period is totally fine. It is always the performance and sustainability tradeoffs.
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As always, I appreciate these interviews so much because they provide so much thoughtful perspective! I imagine the reason Peter had such a good day that next day was probably due to under-eating and being in a caloric deficit for the previous day. His body was more than likely excited about literally whatever he gave it, as long as it was enough calories to meet the needs of the day he had just had climbing. And I also imagine he had probably had not been feeding himself properly in that way for some time. I too have had times where I ate like total crap after climbing and felt amazing the next day, but if you look back, it's because I was giving my body the amount of calories it needed to recover properly. Thoughts?
Thanks for the kind words! Yeah I think your perspective here makes sense. Peter is so psyched on climbing he doesn’t bother with little things like eating when he’s out doing 2000 feet in an afternoon 😂
People underestimate the value of sugar with climbing. Glycogen is an important fuel source for ATP production in the anaerobic state of climbing. Many of the ultra crushers I meet, eat a lot of calories at the crag, much of it being carbs
As someone who cannot eat much period (GI disorder), I have learned that calories are incredibly important & that specific nutrition matters less than we think, if calories are out of whack. Very lean athletic people sometimes forget that they need a certain amount of energy, their bodies are not as invested in their strict diets as their minds. I do think that sports psychology is misused to achieve performance goals, while doing tremendous damage to the mind. I am definitely leery of people with extreme risk tolerance working in psychology, I'll be honest, i think it's a pathology.
He said he was starving himself of fats. He was severely nutrient deficient because his body probably wasn’t even producing hormones properly
As an old Squamish climber its nice seeing Peter on social media....He is both Old and Bold...a very rare breed indeed!
Just an absolute gem of a human
Is that Outer Limits at 2:36 or so? Most of the years I was climbing my diet consisted of whatever I could scrounge or afford.
Thanks to Emil Abrahamson recently telling the story of him gaining some weight, but becoming a stronger and healthier climber in the process, I have stopped restricting my weight to what I considered 'normal' and just ate as much as my body told me to.
The gains were incredible. I've gained maybe 2kg in the past 2 months, but also increased my finger strength from 33mm to finally being able to hang 20mm BW, and also increasing my pull up from 130% to 140% BW. I realize now that I was under-fueling big time. I have more energy for my workouts, and thanks to that I can put in the work that lead to those gains.
Love this!!!
I've found it's not the exception that makes the rule. You don't get in shape by eating one good meal a week, just like you don't get out of shape eating one 'bad' meal a week. Especially if one is super active.
Like Peter, I found that a pint of B&J after a big day of climbing is great for my recovery. The rest of the week it's back to healthy meals without exception.
Great discussion!
Donuts and ice cream for my send fuel and recovery 🙌
As someone who only eats ice cream when it comes to sweets, I can't relate to this at all. 😂 It's one of the things that I not only enjoy, but even look forward to.
Icecream is actually pretty healthy. Lots of full-fat dairy, few ingredients, no seed oils. The body can handle a bit of sugar.
This is the best news I’ve gotten in ages
@thestruggleclimbingshow looking at the composition of ruminant dairy fat and ruminant fat, we have the perfect composition for human health. 50/50 mono/sat fat with a 2:1 ratio of omega 6:omega 3.
People are terrified of cholesterol, yet studies of centenarians shows that these few 1% have the highest total cholesterol.
Cholesterol shows up where damage has occurred like firefighters to a blaze.
Same
was probably in a calorie deficit for a very long time, body coudnt recover and with the extra calories it finally got what it needed. nothing to do with diet just energie
Well, it is always short term vs long term and non comp climbers vs comp climbers. For a normal person, if you eat super strict like keto diet you will see benefit next day or weeks. But for a comp climber, they compete for the whole year. Can they eat like this every day? Hell, no!!! Can they eat like this occasionally? I doubt it. Eating like this will shorten pro climbers competition life and their general life. But for a normal person who wants to push for a project, eating super strict for short period is totally fine. It is always the performance and sustainability tradeoffs.