I'm using the Mercedes source pop tester. I just tested mine from a spare diesel motor (unknown compression test) on the stand now. I'm also going to see if I can get the wires in the #4 injector to overhaul them, possibly using RTV to separate the wires and prevent them from grounding. I'm doing videos as well, but I will post the entire build all at once rather than along the way.
Thanks for the info man! I just bought one that had the injectors replaced and I'm not sure where the return line off the back injectors goes. Any chance you could check on yours?
I wish I could but I do not have the right tools for the job. In order to properly make sure they are 100% they need to be pressure tested at the right PSI. You can do like I did and clean them good but nothing is a guarantee being even a micro meter off on the spring or needle will throw it off.
@@ruffypoo I plan on buying Monark nozzles and will try to fit it myself and later just get those tested just to make sure as I do have additional injectors laying around..
@@ruffypoo I use to work on that engine new and the Mercedes from that time. Usually we would put them on a tester first to check the spray and the volume. As old as they are they probably need replacing or cleaning. We use to first run diesel purge through them, you run the engine on it for 15 minutes let it sit for a few hours then run it again for about 1/2 hour. You basically by pass the fuel feed and just operate with the purge. Only on BMW's from that time frame you would need to raise the rear wheels and put the transmission in neutral if an automatic. Because when you continuously rev it up the A clutch pack would engage and burn the transmission up . There's a bulletin on it. You got it running but most likely the are all out. If the purge didn't smooth it out we would isolate the missing cylinder or if high mileage pull them all and test each one. When one goes the others are usually on the way. Try the Diesel purge from liqui molly, will really help.
thanks a lot from germany, my old e30 needs injector cleaning :D
Thanks man !
I'm using the Mercedes source pop tester. I just tested mine from a spare diesel motor (unknown compression test) on the stand now. I'm also going to see if I can get the wires in the #4 injector to overhaul them, possibly using RTV to separate the wires and prevent them from grounding. I'm doing videos as well, but I will post the entire build all at once rather than along the way.
Hello my friend, can you put up a video for us showing us the crankshaft sensor wires from the first step to the last step? Thank you.
I can't unfortunately. This video is old and I've sold the car since then.
Thanks for the info man! I just bought one that had the injectors replaced and I'm not sure where the return line off the back injectors goes. Any chance you could check on yours?
No sorry I sold the car
It goes right to the return banjo on the injection pump
Hey man, thanks a lot for this. Could you also make a video on how to restore this injector?
I wish I could but I do not have the right tools for the job. In order to properly make sure they are 100% they need to be pressure tested at the right PSI. You can do like I did and clean them good but nothing is a guarantee being even a micro meter off on the spring or needle will throw it off.
@@ruffypoo I plan on buying Monark nozzles and will try to fit it myself and later just get those tested just to make sure as I do have additional injectors laying around..
what size wrench do you use to unscrew the injector?
Its been years. I forget. My apologies. I might of said the size in the video
You need to take these to diesel shop and let them rebuild.
Why would I do that lol. Just because 1 bad injector.
@@ruffypoo I use to work on that engine new and the Mercedes from that time. Usually we would put them on a tester first
to check the spray and the volume. As old as they are they probably need replacing or cleaning. We use to first run diesel purge through them, you run the engine on it for 15 minutes let it sit for a few hours then run it again for about 1/2 hour. You basically by pass the fuel feed and just operate with the purge. Only on BMW's from that time frame you would need to raise the rear wheels and put the transmission in neutral if an automatic. Because when you continuously
rev it up the A clutch pack would engage and burn the transmission up . There's a bulletin on it. You got it running but most likely the are all out. If the purge didn't smooth it out we would isolate the missing
cylinder or if high mileage pull them all and test each one. When one goes the others are usually on the way. Try the Diesel purge from liqui molly, will really help.