THANK YOU!!!!! I had been losing my mind trying to get that circlip out - The Ohlins video just says to get under the circlip and pop it out. It doesn't say anything about compressing the spring first! It seems obvious now but I couldn't figure it out and Google sent me here. I wish I could give more than one upvote!
Thankyou so much for this video! I've got my Hyperpro spring arriving this week and was debating taking it to the shop. Now I know it's actually really easy to do! You've saved me a bit of money!
Very informative video. This has given me the confidence to work on my own bike. Thanks for another awesome video. What would I do without London Wildman!
i was inspired by what you done and purchased the hyperpro front and rear kit, done the oil level the same as you and we now have a much better bike cheers dans dad wayne uk
Purging the forks is very important as it displaces trapped air and fills the stanchions and sliders with oil. Move the slider s-l-o-w-l-y up and down. Buy a Racetec air gap setting syringe. Best I’ve ever used. Also buy a piston rod holding tool. It’s basically a screw on extension allowing you to remove the fork cap an measure the air gap without losing the piston rod down inside the stanchion.
Good video. The reason you pump the fork after adding oil is to bleed out air. I do mine until no more bubbles percolate to the surface and then let it sit ten minutes before buttoning it up. 😀
+LostInPA I can understand that for the left side that has a damper, but for the right side, it's just a spring sitting in an empty fork tube. "Pumping" it just moves the outer tube over the fork tube. Unless there are some oil passage ways in the bottom of the fork tube somewhere. Thanks for watching!
+LostInPA LOL nice... Talking about OCD.... I've removed my forks 3 times since installing this to make sure my oil levels were still correct. LOL! Or maybe I doubted the procedure I did..
London Wildman I totally understand. 😀 The adjusted oil level they give in their instructions makes sense with the new spring. How is the ride? I put the Racetech spring in mine. Made a big difference in ride quality / stability on the rough stuff.
I have a question. Do you feel the new spring makes a big difference? I have the same bike, it has a hyperpro rear shock and a CRF 250 M spring in the front. I was considering upgreading it, but I'm not sure if the spring alone will change much. thanks!
+thealvaco It didn't really feel any "stiffer". The only thing I noticed was that it compressed a little bit less when going over small jumps. The bike stopped burying the wheel in the fender over small bumps. But would still burry pretty good over larger bumps. Next time I'll try the race tech additional spring. I have a feeling that would feel a bit stiffer.
Good day, Most guys just add a spring to the left fork. Excuse my ignorance, but why have to got the route of changing out the original spring and leaving left fork springless?
Two different systems. I'm not sure it really matters. Regardless if there's one spring, or two, the end result equals the same spring rate. The single spring in this system equals the same spring rate as both in the other systems.
How cheap Honda only put one spring in the forks, no wonder the front suspension underperforms. It's really disappointing Honda did that. Your video is great very informative.
Thanks! Regarding the fork spring.. it's fairly common for a manufacturer to only use 1 spring in the forks on their motorcycles. They just make sure that one spring has a higher spring rate to make up for the other side not having a spring. So, if they need a total spring rate of 100 lbs/in, some manufacturer's would use two 50 lbs/in springs. Other manufacturers will use one 100 lbs/in spring. So, in the end.. it's all the same. I think the reason it under performs, is because the spring rate isn't high enough for majority of people's weight, and the damping is sub-par to save money.
Youre holding your pliers backwards. It's a pet peeve of mine. Holding them that direction causes them to open up a slip. Turn them over and the harder you push on them the tighter they get and tend to slip less. Good video otherwise
LOL! Thanks for the tip! The way you mentioned def feels like they grip better, just like you said. In this case, the top cap was already loose, and was just turning in the thread and not actually tightening them, but ya, I hear you on the holding technique.
Will Viljoen I hear ya. The fork caps were already loose, and the pliers were holding the fork caps still while I turned the fork tube. I wasn't using the pliers to break the cap loose.
THANK YOU!!!!! I had been losing my mind trying to get that circlip out - The Ohlins video just says to get under the circlip and pop it out. It doesn't say anything about compressing the spring first! It seems obvious now but I couldn't figure it out and Google sent me here. I wish I could give more than one upvote!
Glad the video helped!!!!
Thanks a lot for this tuto. I am in France and i have just used it ! Just perfect ! Thanks again.
JM
Thankyou so much for this video! I've got my Hyperpro spring arriving this week and was debating taking it to the shop. Now I know it's actually really easy to do! You've saved me a bit of money!
Glad i could help..
Great video. First thing I'm going to do to mine. Mostly because I'm fat and know the stock forks under perform. Great tutorial.
Enjoy! It was a good mod!
Very informative video. This has given me the confidence to work on my own bike. Thanks for another awesome video. What would I do without London Wildman!
LOL! Nice Mike..
i was inspired by what you done and purchased the hyperpro front and rear kit, done the oil level the same as you and we now have a much better bike cheers dans dad wayne uk
Awesome! Enjoy!
Great informative video. I like the way you showed the service manual pages at each step.
+BlastsFromTheSaddle Thanks!
Purging the forks is very important as it displaces trapped air and fills the stanchions and sliders with oil. Move the slider s-l-o-w-l-y up and down.
Buy a Racetec air gap setting syringe. Best I’ve ever used.
Also buy a piston rod holding tool. It’s basically a screw on extension allowing you to remove the fork cap an measure the air gap without losing the piston rod down inside the stanchion.
Ha ha. I like your sense of humour, using the spooky Ohlins video background music 😊
Good video. The reason you pump the fork after adding oil is to bleed out air. I do mine until no more bubbles percolate to the surface and then let it sit ten minutes before buttoning it up. 😀
+LostInPA I can understand that for the left side that has a damper, but for the right side, it's just a spring sitting in an empty fork tube. "Pumping" it just moves the outer tube over the fork tube. Unless there are some oil passage ways in the bottom of the fork tube somewhere. Thanks for watching!
I have to do it to both until my OCD is satisfied. Lol. I wish the CRF250L forks came stock with air bleed screws.
+LostInPA LOL nice... Talking about OCD.... I've removed my forks 3 times since installing this to make sure my oil levels were still correct. LOL! Or maybe I doubted the procedure I did..
London Wildman I totally understand. 😀 The adjusted oil level they give in their instructions makes sense with the new spring. How is the ride? I put the Racetech spring in mine. Made a big difference in ride quality / stability on the rough stuff.
+LostInPA Not 100% sure yet on the ride. Haven't done much with it since the install. I will be going out today to put it to the works.
Awesome, you make it look easy.
Though this video us in 2017, but its still very usefull, i would like your opinion, why you choose Hyper Pro, why not other branf. Thanks.
Thanks to our vlog sir... Good job god bless you
can you provide a link of where you got this fork upgrade kit?
Thank for the information it was very helpful
Great job! Thank you for the video!
I have a question. Do you feel the new spring makes a big difference? I have the same bike, it has a hyperpro rear shock and a CRF 250 M spring in the front. I was considering upgreading it, but I'm not sure if the spring alone will change much.
thanks!
+thealvaco It didn't really feel any "stiffer". The only thing I noticed was that it compressed a little bit less when going over small jumps. The bike stopped burying the wheel in the fender over small bumps. But would still burry pretty good over larger bumps. Next time I'll try the race tech additional spring. I have a feeling that would feel a bit stiffer.
Good day, Most guys just add a spring to the left fork. Excuse my ignorance, but why have to got the route of changing out the original spring and leaving left fork springless?
Two different systems. I'm not sure it really matters. Regardless if there's one spring, or two, the end result equals the same spring rate. The single spring in this system equals the same spring rate as both in the other systems.
How cheap Honda only put one spring in the forks, no wonder the front suspension underperforms. It's really disappointing Honda did that. Your video is great very informative.
Thanks! Regarding the fork spring.. it's fairly common for a manufacturer to only use 1 spring in the forks on their motorcycles. They just make sure that one spring has a higher spring rate to make up for the other side not having a spring. So, if they need a total spring rate of 100 lbs/in, some manufacturer's would use two 50 lbs/in springs. Other manufacturers will use one 100 lbs/in spring. So, in the end.. it's all the same. I think the reason it under performs, is because the spring rate isn't high enough for majority of people's weight, and the damping is sub-par to save money.
Could also be because the bike is made in Thailand where most bikers are lightweights 🤔
"pump it up and down to get the fluid circulating" hmmm wow.
Yup.. long gentle strokes is what it needs.
Youre holding your pliers backwards. It's a pet peeve of mine. Holding them that direction causes them to open up a slip. Turn them over and the harder you push on them the tighter they get and tend to slip less. Good video otherwise
LOL! Thanks for the tip! The way you mentioned def feels like they grip better, just like you said. In this case, the top cap was already loose, and was just turning in the thread and not actually tightening them, but ya, I hear you on the holding technique.
Holly heck you butcher! Use a socket man ! Water plum pliers are not for undoing fork caps.
Will Viljoen I hear ya. The fork caps were already loose, and the pliers were holding the fork caps still while I turned the fork tube. I wasn't using the pliers to break the cap loose.
Sweet man, cheers for posting your videos.