Thanks Rob. Makes me feel a lot better. I have a line drawn on my table top for my resaw blade having done exactly what you just showed us. Lesson learned: set your blade track properly in the center of the wheel and determine how it cuts, track rip cuts to THAT line. No amount of top wheel tilt solves this problem that is unique to each blade.
After a decade of watching YT videos on how to cut straight on a bandsaw by adjusting a fence, I just figured out my bandsaw table is adjustable. If you adjust the table, you can use the fancy fence that quick adjusts and remains square to the table rather than using those giant besse clamps. You can use your miter slots, too. But you have to re-adjust whenever you change tension by very much, depending on how rigid your saw is, of course. Yours looks like a beast. I finally noticed this one day, while contemplating how to adjust my table. I was considering to egg out the holes in the top trunnion plate so I could twist the table CW/CCW more. Then I thought maybe to shim/wedge it where the lower trunnion plate bolts to the frame, like what I have done on a 10" saw in the past. But as I'm looking, I finally notice there are 4 worm screws next to the 4 bolts on the lower trunnion plate. Using these set screws, you can not only adjust the table to be square to the cut, you can also tilt the table forward/back to make your cut perfectly perpendicular to the table for doing notches/laps/tenons that are square up/down. Somehow, YT got on the wrong track, here, perhaps? With all the nonsense about adjusting the tracking and making your fence crooked? FYI, be sure to back out/in the trunnion stop/level bolt before adjusting these worm screws/bolts. Easy way to check for table square is to use a sled or miter attachment. Cut some slots in the edge of a rectangular scrap of 3/4" plywood, every inch or so, square to the edge. Then put that on the miter gauge/sled so you will take a slice off that slotted/interrupted edge. Force it through at a high feed rate. The slots let the blade return towards neutral, and you don't learn anything from making a crooked cut any longer than an inch; after it goes wonky, anything and everything happens. You just want to see where it tends towards without cutting your insert or sled up or damaging your blade or wearing out your side guides. So where the slots are, you will feel a step when your table is off. When the steps disappear, your table will be square. (If your TPI is low enough, you might even get small steps that alternate in either direction). You don't need a straight edge or a square or to make a judgement call. All you need is your fingers to feels for this step. Your fingers are good for better than a thous, at this.
I really appreciate you showing what quality bandsaw work is like - your results are impressive! I have to leave much more material so I can clean up my bandsaw cuts. This proves that it's really the operator and technique. Thanks for taking the time to do more videos guys!
Thank you Rob for the band saw shows I work in Oklahoma for school district I have been out for one week and they are talking for rest of school year at least I have a shop to make things and catch up on cleaning shop thank you again. I enjoy the Purple Heart shows hope to be able to send money to help the vets.
Thanks for the great tip Rob. I have an old Delta and I don't have a fence. I've been using a wooden fence with clamps for a long time and I've been measuring the ends of the fence from the front of the table. I can't wait to try your technique for resawing lumber and not having to fight with the stock.
I recognize those pine triangles you're using for push sticks from the live Bed Desk episode. You left them behind at the band saw after cutting the slanted sides of the desk Sat nite. Great video today and last week end. Thanks.
Been looking forward to these daily series every morning I wake up! I’m watching it like I watch my daily news. Boy am I gonna be let down when you stop making daily videos
Great video and no stupid background "music". Doing it this way I have been able to resaw 1/16 inch maple for archery bows using a light duty Taiwan band saw. I glued 1/2" maple under the table so I could put clamps anywhere. Just added a screw adjustment on the back side of the fence. Getting very smooth cuts using a wood slicer blade from Highland Wood Working.
Rob -- What are your thoughts on the theory behind your fellow Canadian's 'Little Ripper'? That is, blade drift is largely caused by the wood pushing against the fence, which causes the blade to deflect?
Thanks Rob, this is a fantastic series. I have learned so many little things about the bandsaws, setting up and using that I didn’t realise I didn’t know! I don’t use mine much but I might be using it more in the future
Hi Rob, very neat trick, but obviously, you need to set-up the auxiliary fence every time. I've had good success with blade tracking by setting the rip fence parallel to the mitre slot. Then rotate the table a small amount at a time on the trunions, until the timber no longer binds or moves away from the fence. I know mitre guides are not ideal on a bandsaw, but this method also gives you a fighting chance if you want to use a mitre fence.
It is entertaining. Appreciate it. Thank you for pointing out it’s best to set the fence to let the blade cut the way it wants! I used to just push harder and try to force the blade to cut straight. Your way so much better.
Thank you Rob for the Bandsaw series I learned alot. Where did you get the aftermarket guide bearings? I look forward to each days woodworking video you present every day. Thanks!
Thanks for doing these, Rob! My oldish but new-to-me 14” Grizzly won’t seem to cut straight no matter what I do to it. I’m sure it’s setup issues, so hopefully I’ll pick up some pointers here that will help.
It is possible to get a bandsaw to cut without drift. See the video put out by Fine Woodworking, called Eliminating drift. Michael Fortune shows how to set your saw up for straight cuts
Thanks Rob for the useful info just wondering where you got the aftermarket guide bearings? I have the exact same saw and can’t find bearing I can upgrade to. Thanks from Nova Scotia
with all due respect, you are placing your hand behind the blade to hold it to the clamped fence. That has to be pushing the kerf closed by some amount. That's one of the reasons you should be using the feather board, as you said. If you look closely, I think you will see where you pushed the kerf slightly. This is a method that is worth remembering. Thanks.
Rob, I have been watching your show for sometime know, I really enjoy your approach to interaction and content, I wanted to ask you a favor if you have a minute. I have a Buccwell 14" KL-N5695, I'm looking for manual, can you point me in the right direction please. Thanks, Cecil Dyer
Hi Rob, Will that alignment be true for all further cuts made with that blade? Or will the blade wander depending on what size wood you cut? Great video!
Why not loosen the bolts for the table and adjust the table so it is parallel to the miter track, then you could use the fence rather than a board set to a just the tracking?
Is listening to your bandsaw in my headset the same as listening to my tools with no hearing protection? Lol ... great video and I’m learning a TON from these! Thanks!
Solid Snake gotta be tablesaw. Bandsaws have too many limitations and not enough precision. They’re great, but I wouldn’t take the best bandsaw over a SawStop.
Please don't set the fence parallel to blade drift. Set the fence parallel to the miter slot. The whole table should be turned to have the fence parallel to drift. If you don't you will not be able to make a square cut with the the miter gauge. Once you have moved the table to match the drift, then you can use your saw as it was intended, leave the clamps on the wall.
Thanks Rob. Makes me feel a lot better. I have a line drawn on my table top for my resaw blade having done exactly what you just showed us. Lesson learned: set your blade track properly in the center of the wheel and determine how it cuts, track rip cuts to THAT line. No amount of top wheel tilt solves this problem that is unique to each blade.
Loving this series, if i'm stuck inside, watching pros teach is a fantastic use of my time
This channel is nothing short of absolute gold
After a decade of watching YT videos on how to cut straight on a bandsaw by adjusting a fence, I just figured out my bandsaw table is adjustable. If you adjust the table, you can use the fancy fence that quick adjusts and remains square to the table rather than using those giant besse clamps. You can use your miter slots, too. But you have to re-adjust whenever you change tension by very much, depending on how rigid your saw is, of course. Yours looks like a beast.
I finally noticed this one day, while contemplating how to adjust my table. I was considering to egg out the holes in the top trunnion plate so I could twist the table CW/CCW more. Then I thought maybe to shim/wedge it where the lower trunnion plate bolts to the frame, like what I have done on a 10" saw in the past. But as I'm looking, I finally notice there are 4 worm screws next to the 4 bolts on the lower trunnion plate. Using these set screws, you can not only adjust the table to be square to the cut, you can also tilt the table forward/back to make your cut perfectly perpendicular to the table for doing notches/laps/tenons that are square up/down.
Somehow, YT got on the wrong track, here, perhaps? With all the nonsense about adjusting the tracking and making your fence crooked?
FYI, be sure to back out/in the trunnion stop/level bolt before adjusting these worm screws/bolts.
Easy way to check for table square is to use a sled or miter attachment. Cut some slots in the edge of a rectangular scrap of 3/4" plywood, every inch or so, square to the edge. Then put that on the miter gauge/sled so you will take a slice off that slotted/interrupted edge. Force it through at a high feed rate. The slots let the blade return towards neutral, and you don't learn anything from making a crooked cut any longer than an inch; after it goes wonky, anything and everything happens. You just want to see where it tends towards without cutting your insert or sled up or damaging your blade or wearing out your side guides. So where the slots are, you will feel a step when your table is off. When the steps disappear, your table will be square. (If your TPI is low enough, you might even get small steps that alternate in either direction). You don't need a straight edge or a square or to make a judgement call. All you need is your fingers to feels for this step. Your fingers are good for better than a thous, at this.
This has been so entertaining. All of this power tool knowledge from the master hand tool maestro. Thank you !!
I really appreciate you showing what quality bandsaw work is like - your results are impressive! I have to leave much more material so I can clean up my bandsaw cuts. This proves that it's really the operator and technique. Thanks for taking the time to do more videos guys!
Thank you Rob for the band saw shows I work in Oklahoma for school district I have been out for one week and they are talking for rest of school year at least I have a shop to make things and catch up on cleaning shop thank you again. I enjoy the Purple Heart shows hope to be able to send money to help the vets.
Thanks for the great tip Rob. I have an old Delta and I don't have a fence. I've been using a wooden fence with clamps for a long time and I've been measuring the ends of the fence from the front of the table. I can't wait to try your technique for resawing lumber and not having to fight with the stock.
I recognize those pine triangles you're using for push sticks from the live Bed Desk episode. You left them behind at the band saw after cutting the slanted sides of the desk Sat nite. Great video today and last week end. Thanks.
Been looking forward to these daily series every morning I wake up! I’m watching it like I watch my daily news. Boy am I gonna be let down when you stop making daily videos
sorry, a bit late with todays, just went up.
Rob, thanks for this mini series - perfect timing for me as I've just inherited one and need to set it up. I've learnt a lot from your videos.
I'm loving the bandsaw series, Rob can't wait to see what you fo next. Thanks for posting these.
Thanks for great bandsaw review. Good viewing while hunkered down
Thank you, I look forward these daily to break up the day
This has been the most interesting of the "short" series! Arts and craftsmanship...
Thanks for your time and shared experience and expertise.
I’ve enjoyed these, and this particular vid is especially timely for me. Thanks!
Great video and no stupid background "music". Doing it this way I have been able to resaw 1/16 inch maple for archery bows using a light duty Taiwan band saw. I glued 1/2" maple under the table so I could put clamps anywhere. Just added a screw adjustment on the back side of the fence. Getting very smooth cuts using a wood slicer blade from Highland Wood Working.
Love these short posts, very informative. Thank-you.
Rob -- What are your thoughts on the theory behind your fellow Canadian's 'Little Ripper'? That is, blade drift is largely caused by the wood pushing against the fence, which causes the blade to deflect?
Thanks Rob, this is a fantastic series. I have learned so many little things about the bandsaws, setting up and using that I didn’t realise I didn’t know! I don’t use mine much but I might be using it more in the future
Hi Rob, very neat trick, but obviously, you need to set-up the auxiliary fence every time. I've had good success with blade tracking by setting the rip fence parallel to the mitre slot. Then rotate the table a small amount at a time on the trunions, until the timber no longer binds or moves away from the fence. I know mitre guides are not ideal on a bandsaw, but this method also gives you a fighting chance if you want to use a mitre fence.
Great series--looking forward to the next!
Love these bandsaw videos. Currently waiting for mine to be delivered.
Thanks Rob! Your videos are great!!!!
I love the hockey tape on the clamp grips.
It is entertaining. Appreciate it. Thank you for pointing out it’s best to set the fence to let the blade cut the way it wants! I used to just push harder and try to force the blade to cut straight. Your way so much better.
Thanks for this. Really like that idea re fence placement.
Good information. Thanks for doing the videos.
I was going to ask a question, but you answered it. Thanks
Very interesting and educational! Thanks!
Thank you again, very informative.
Thanks been enjoying these videos
All well worth the watch 👍👍
Thank you Rob for the Bandsaw series I learned alot. Where did you get the aftermarket guide bearings? I look forward to each days woodworking video you present every day. Thanks!
Thanks for doing these, Rob! My oldish but new-to-me 14” Grizzly won’t seem to cut straight no matter what I do to it. I’m sure it’s setup issues, so hopefully I’ll pick up some pointers here that will help.
Thanks for all these & I`ll keep trying I think a lot of my problem is hands aren`t that steady
It is possible to get a bandsaw to cut without drift. See the video put out by Fine Woodworking, called Eliminating drift. Michael Fortune shows how to set your saw up for straight cuts
Thanks Rob for the useful info just wondering where you got the aftermarket guide bearings? I have the exact same saw and can’t find bearing I can upgrade to. Thanks from Nova Scotia
with all due respect, you are placing your hand behind the blade to hold it to the clamped fence. That has to be pushing the kerf closed by some amount. That's one of the reasons you should be using the feather board, as you said. If you look closely, I think you will see where you pushed the kerf slightly. This is a method that is worth remembering. Thanks.
nicely done!
Rob, I have been watching your show for sometime know, I really enjoy your approach to interaction and content, I wanted to ask you a favor if you have a minute. I have a Buccwell 14" KL-N5695, I'm looking for manual, can you point me in the right direction please. Thanks, Cecil Dyer
I like your series on the band saw a lot. Have you thought about showing us how to make a dowel rod making jig like i saw u use once?
tailspins1 I have thought about it, but I dread the thought of having to tinker around to make one. Could do it though. We’ll see.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks for the consideration
If you set the deepest part of the gullet of the teeth to the center of the upper wheel during set-up, "blade drift" will disappear.
billstunes that’s exactly what I do and I’ve never had a problem with blade drift.
Hi Rob,
Will that alignment be true for all further cuts made with that blade? Or will the blade wander depending on what size wood you cut?
Great video!
I would it to stay true but for the sake of better results I wouldn’t hesitate to reset it if I were to rip a wider piece.
Why not loosen the bolts for the table and adjust the table so it is parallel to the miter track, then you could use the fence rather than a board set to a just the tracking?
Alex Snodgrass, no drift. Dan
Is listening to your bandsaw in my headset the same as listening to my tools with no hearing protection? Lol ... great video and I’m learning a TON from these! Thanks!
Thank You
Bandsaw or table saw? Each has their own querks but im steering more towards a bandsaw as my only few powertools in my shop
Solid Snake gotta be tablesaw. Bandsaws have too many limitations and not enough precision. They’re great, but I wouldn’t take the best bandsaw over a SawStop.
What size blade are you using......TPI ?
Can I rip 1x2s with this method?
Be safe and stay healthy
2nd time I’ve managed to make 1st comment this week. Woohoo, thanks Rob
What was wrong with the 8” jointer during your last live feed ?
Daniel Geng Nothing. 8” worked fine. It was the big General that didn’t run at first.
Lane Cobb sorry that’s the one I’m asking about
Daniel Geng No worries. I’m curious as well.
Please don't set the fence parallel to blade drift. Set the fence parallel to the miter slot. The whole table should be turned to have the fence parallel to drift. If you don't you will not be able to make a square cut with the the miter gauge. Once you have moved the table to match the drift, then you can use your saw as it was intended, leave the clamps on the wall.
Nice
Good
Bring back the slicked hair look!
Brian Le nooooooo!
ok but no one is going to mention the freehand dead straight line on a 3-4 foot board like it's no big deal?
Funny with the naked eye you can get it within a few thousands without really trying that hard.