Hi Jeff. Commodore 64, now there’s a flashback! Love it. This pattern is so fun. Thanks for this share and instruction. Much love to you and Ann from the State of West Virginia ❤
Nice bowl. I like the thick, uneven edges. I like how the light passes thru to cast a different colored shadow. Spray A, or something like it to stop the haze. I definitely think the market is strong for pieces like this.
Hi Debra. I fight the urge sometimes to coldwork edges, square them up and so on. But that hand made organic look still works for me. I've never used Spray A. Maybe I should get some and try it. Would be an easier solution if you don't have a sandblaster.
@@debraberg1763 I have used the Fuse Master Super Spray, a while back. It worked fine from memory. I just forgot I had it. So used to using the sandblaster. 😕😀
@Kay Constable That slight wobbly edge is just the extra glass in the small pieces that form the spots pushing out slightly. As they melt in and the glass thickness stays at 6 mm the mass has to go somewhere so it pushes out the edges. That's normal in pieces like this.
Hi Suze. If you do, I'd love to see it. I have a poll on the Community tab asking opinions about me doing a regular video showcasing the work of viewers, that is based on one of my videos. Great way to share I think. If you have the time vote on how you feel. Even post comments there as well. Love to know what you think.
Hi Ghislaine. If this is a duplicate response forgive me. I'm sure I answered before, but it's not showing. Anyway, I was just saying that if you're anything like me you'll get a collection of moulds but mainly use a few favourites. 😁
Very carefully 😃 They are all in an enclosed cabinet away from dust. Some are also in cardboard boxes. I limit stacking either inside or just on top of each other, but if I do I separate with bubble wrap. Ceramic moulds can be easily scored and that will show on your piece. Some are just upside down on the shelf to further stop dust. I keep dedicated kiln shelves for fire polishing in there as well. They're coated with boron nitride. Stainless ones are less prone to marking, but once coated with boron try to protect that. If it gets marked that also will show in your final piece. Hope that all helps.
That’s a great video…love the colours and the leopard print effect! The do-dad you used with the Taurus sure worked well. I did not get one with my machine, but wonder if a large washer with a piece of dowel stuck in the center of it wouldn’t do the same job? Your circular washer thingy must have a shoulder that inserts into the grid? Cool technique indeed!!
Hi Caroline. Yes, it has a lug that fits neatly into the grid, but not so neat it won't turn. I'm sure you could make up something similar. It looks just like a disk with the lug in the middle. Just need to be able to stick it to the glass and then remove it later.
Hi. I have a clam shell CS 16 and Fusion 14. Use both about same, but mainly the clam shell when I need to see horizontally into the kiln. Drops etc. Don't have a large kiln so I won't be making any big projects, sadly. Never know what the future holds though.
@@RocketRoseArt thank you for your kind reply. I have a Caldera with a 7" shelf. I'm ready to go bigger! Please know how much your videos are appreciated!!!
thank u again. I love watching u use your jigs for cutting glass on that saw. i bought a bag of them, not sure how to use the others. is it easy to make thinner circles (that might not be the right wording? maybe making rings with the saw.? your bowl is beautiful
If you mean cutting the middle out of a disk, I've never tried that. It should be doable. I suppose depends on how thin the ring. Too thin I expect it would break for sure. And 2mm glass might be a challenge.
Hi. That depends on what you start with. A square piece will need clearance from the saw body to rotate, but a piece partially cut down towards a circle will cut a bigger circle because it requires clearance. But I think the max would be about 40 cm diameter if you go to the trouble to trim the sides down as much as possible to a circle.
Hello Jeff, Can you put the whole stoak from a full fuse (2x 3mm) bullseye in C° on the site, from the start (roomtemperature) till the end? Please incl. all soakperiods and periods to reach a certain temperature. Let’s say 2 plates 20 x 20 cm. Especially the starttemp. 222C°, I don’t understand how you start till that and why! Thank you very much.
Hi Carel. You'll find all firing schedules I used are in the video. In each segment (e.g #1) the first temp is the rate of heating, not a start temp. The second temp is the processing temp we want and lastly is the hold, or soak, duration. 'Full' just means as fast as possible. For a 20 x 20 with no decoration on top change the #1 hold at 535 to 60 minutes. Change the #2 hold at 800 to about 5-10 minutes. In the segment #3 (oops I numbered it 4) you only need to old for 60 minutes. Have a look at some other videos where I fusing just 2 x 3 mm sheets and they all have firing schedules available. The size 20 x 20 doesn't really matter. It's the thickness of the final piece that matters when it comes to the anneal hold at 482. Of course, these are all just a guide as your kiln may fire hotter or colder, and if you're using a different COE to the 90 I use that will also change things. Hope this helps.
Thanks again for sharing! I love it. When you sprayed the bowl with the ZYP, does it only need one coat? I just ordered my first can. I don’t have it yet. Kathie from Maicon
When you initially start using it you'll need a few coats. After that I have only ever given it one light coat. Just remember, once you start using it on a mould you can't go back to kiln wash.
I don't always grind cut edges. You can fuse without doing so. The most important thing to do is to keep the cut pieces wet. Don't let the edges dry. If they do the fine ground glass from the cut can be harder to remove. Scrub the cut edges to ensure there is no fine ground glass left behind. If there is it will certainly be noticeable after firing.
Thank you. A great idea. I didn’t realise you could use the ring saw to create circles. Where do you get the dodad to stick to the glass?. Can’t wait to see the stand
I think it came with the machine, but not sure. But it is an accessory by Taurus so you should be able to purchase one. Wish I had a voucher or something I could give you. Have to look into that.
Hi Jeff. Commodore 64, now there’s a flashback! Love it. This pattern is so fun. Thanks for this share and instruction. Much love to you and Ann from the State of West Virginia ❤
Thank you Sherri. I just wish I still had my C64. Oh well!
I hadn't thought ot use a ring saw. I'm rubbish with circles.
It make a life a lot less stressful 😁
I was trying to think of what to make in my new mold. I love this idea.
Hi Judith. Glad to help.
Nice bowl. I like the thick, uneven edges. I like how the light passes thru to cast a different colored shadow. Spray A, or something like it to stop the haze. I definitely think the market is strong for pieces like this.
Hi Debra. I fight the urge sometimes to coldwork edges, square them up and so on. But that hand made organic look still works for me. I've never used Spray A. Maybe I should get some and try it. Would be an easier solution if you don't have a sandblaster.
@@RocketRoseArt yes. You can paint on spray A, but I hear there are better ones.
@@debraberg1763 I have used the Fuse Master Super Spray, a while back. It worked fine from memory. I just forgot I had it. So used to using the sandblaster. 😕😀
@Kay Constable That slight wobbly edge is just the extra glass in the small pieces that form the spots pushing out slightly. As they melt in and the glass thickness stays at 6 mm the mass has to go somewhere so it pushes out the edges. That's normal in pieces like this.
I’m truly amazed about the circle object, as I have the entire kit saved on Amazon, but I’m going to try your techniques out. Thank you so much.
Always happy to help.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I am fairly new and your videos are very helpful!
Hi Teri. That's my pleasure.
That is beautiful. Such an effective design. Very much enjoying your videos. Thank you.
Hi Anne. Thank you for watching.
I love how this glass came out. I can’t wait to try it myself. Thanks for the tutorial.
Hi Suze. If you do, I'd love to see it. I have a poll on the Community tab asking opinions about me doing a regular video showcasing the work of viewers, that is based on one of my videos. Great way to share I think. If you have the time vote on how you feel. Even post comments there as well. Love to know what you think.
Many thanks for your great ideas, explanation and advice. I am learning great deal of knowledge with your videos. I am in London UK.
Hi Bill. Hope your keeping safe over there, and glad to help with things.
Another wonderful project. Thank you Jeff! I just got a larger and I'll need to add this mold to my arsenal.
Hi Ghislaine. If this is a duplicate response forgive me. I'm sure I answered before, but it's not showing. Anyway, I was just saying that if you're anything like me you'll get a collection of moulds but mainly use a few favourites. 😁
@@RocketRoseArt How do you store your molds?
Very carefully 😃 They are all in an enclosed cabinet away from dust. Some are also in cardboard boxes. I limit stacking either inside or just on top of each other, but if I do I separate with bubble wrap. Ceramic moulds can be easily scored and that will show on your piece. Some are just upside down on the shelf to further stop dust. I keep dedicated kiln shelves for fire polishing in there as well. They're coated with boron nitride. Stainless ones are less prone to marking, but once coated with boron try to protect that. If it gets marked that also will show in your final piece. Hope that all helps.
@@RocketRoseArt It does! Thank you very much.
I am learning so much. Keep going. Thank you.
Hi Helena. That's fantastic. Keeps me motivated to know.
Another great idea. Thank you for sharing. More projects please
Hi Rita. They're coming 👍
Lovely bowl, thank you for showing us.
Hi E M. Always a pleasure, and thank you for the comment.
Great project, thanks Jeff.
My great pleasure. Thanks for the comment.
That’s a great video…love the colours and the leopard print effect! The do-dad you used with the Taurus sure worked well. I did not get one with my machine, but wonder if a large washer with a piece of dowel stuck in the center of it wouldn’t do the same job? Your circular washer thingy must have a shoulder that inserts into the grid? Cool technique indeed!!
Hi Caroline. Yes, it has a lug that fits neatly into the grid, but not so neat it won't turn. I'm sure you could make up something similar. It looks just like a disk with the lug in the middle. Just need to be able to stick it to the glass and then remove it later.
@@RocketRoseArt brilliant! I’m in the ‘maker mode’. Will try and find the wee bits and pieces in my hubby’s mancave☺
I love this bowl and your videos. So very helpful. Would you tell me what size kiln you have? I see that it's Paragon!
Hi. I have a clam shell CS 16 and Fusion 14. Use both about same, but mainly the clam shell when I need to see horizontally into the kiln. Drops etc. Don't have a large kiln so I won't be making any big projects, sadly. Never know what the future holds though.
@@RocketRoseArt thank you for your kind reply. I have a Caldera with a 7" shelf. I'm ready to go bigger! Please know how much your videos are appreciated!!!
thank u again. I love watching u use your jigs for cutting glass on that saw. i bought a bag of them, not sure how to use the others. is it easy to make thinner circles (that might not be the right wording? maybe making rings with the saw.? your bowl is beautiful
If you mean cutting the middle out of a disk, I've never tried that. It should be doable. I suppose depends on how thin the ring. Too thin I expect it would break for sure. And 2mm glass might be a challenge.
It looks great,
Thank you Michelle.
Nice tutorial, thanks for sharing.
No problem Jonathan.
Love this technique! What’s the biggest circle you can cut on the Taurus saw?
Hi. That depends on what you start with. A square piece will need clearance from the saw body to rotate, but a piece partially cut down towards a circle will cut a bigger circle because it requires clearance. But I think the max would be about 40 cm diameter if you go to the trouble to trim the sides down as much as possible to a circle.
Thanks!
Thank you very much Nachshon. I appreciate your support.
Hello Jeff,
Can you put the whole stoak from a full fuse (2x 3mm) bullseye in C° on the site, from the start (roomtemperature) till the end? Please incl. all soakperiods and periods to reach a certain temperature. Let’s say 2 plates 20 x 20 cm. Especially the starttemp. 222C°, I don’t understand how you start till that and why!
Thank you very much.
Hi Carel. You'll find all firing schedules I used are in the video. In each segment (e.g #1) the first temp is the rate of heating, not a start temp. The second temp is the processing temp we want and lastly is the hold, or soak, duration. 'Full' just means as fast as possible. For a 20 x 20 with no decoration on top change the #1 hold at 535 to 60 minutes. Change the #2 hold at 800 to about 5-10 minutes. In the segment #3 (oops I numbered it 4) you only need to old for 60 minutes. Have a look at some other videos where I fusing just 2 x 3 mm sheets and they all have firing schedules available. The size 20 x 20 doesn't really matter. It's the thickness of the final piece that matters when it comes to the anneal hold at 482. Of course, these are all just a guide as your kiln may fire hotter or colder, and if you're using a different COE to the 90 I use that will also change things. Hope this helps.
Perfect, thanks.
My pleasure.
Interesting, I’ll give it a try!
Hi Gwen. Hope you're well. It's an easy one.
Thanks again for sharing! I love it. When you sprayed the bowl with the ZYP, does it only need one coat? I just ordered my first can. I don’t have it yet. Kathie from Maicon
When you initially start using it you'll need a few coats. After that I have only ever given it one light coat. Just remember, once you start using it on a mould you can't go back to kiln wash.
Great video - thank you!!!!
Hi Melissa. Thanks.
Jeff. Does the glass need to ground after cut on the saw? Or do you find the edges smooth out nicely in the fuse ?❤
I don't always grind cut edges. You can fuse without doing so. The most important thing to do is to keep the cut pieces wet. Don't let the edges dry. If they do the fine ground glass from the cut can be harder to remove. Scrub the cut edges to ensure there is no fine ground glass left behind. If there is it will certainly be noticeable after firing.
Thank you. A great idea. I didn’t realise you could use the ring saw to create circles. Where do you get the dodad to stick to the glass?. Can’t wait to see the stand
I think it came with the machine, but not sure. But it is an accessory by Taurus so you should be able to purchase one. Wish I had a voucher or something I could give you. Have to look into that.