I also just printed this and used it, and I at least expected a break in period or something for the gears. Nope, full speed on the first run. It's a good idea to slowly accelerate to full speed, but still. Worked awesome on the first go. Thank you so much for this awesome design.
I just printed, assembled, and used mine for the first time. Absolutely brilliant in it's simplicity, especially the self reversing leadscrew. Excellent work.
This is exactly what I was looking for. I can't wait to get it printed. Thank you for providing the plans for free. I will try to make a contribution soon.
I'm glad I found this before building the other spool winder, now I am off to unloading some spools through the extruder onto the build plate so I can rewind with other brands!! it sounded good when I said it to myself... LOL
one of the blocks fell over in the front. I made a new plate with more of a brim. I think it was because I left the door open as well for pla and the temp dropped real low overnight in the room.
I HIGHLY recommend sanding each piece of the gears before putting it together. Mine was so tight and wouldnt budge until I sanded the sides of the gears and used some WD 40 on them for lubrication.
While WD40 is great, it's not a lubricant, and for (plastic) gears you're better off using silicone grease. WD40 and machine lubrication oils make plastic brittle. Good luck!
This is a Great looking project and MOD and look fwd to printing it. I haven't even taken my X1C out of the box yet as I am cleaning up and organizing my room in order to start a new, I used to print 7 years ago but then I had a stroke. At least I can move around and think now but much has changed. Wow has it!!! Switching colors required stopping the print. I have some questions tho yep a NEWBIE I am again! I downloaded all the files for the print and WOW can all that stuff on the X1 bed be printed? It looks like the head will crash into other objects? Also I see this print is done in multiple colors does the AMS know this in the program on the ones to switch colors on? Sorry for the Juvenile Questions but I have to learn how to walk again! :) oh by the way dont go to a Chiropractor one adjusted my neck and tore an ARTERY. It then bled clotted and the clot went to my brain.... POW Instant STROKE.. Thanks All!
Just finished the print (which took 12 hours with a 0.6 nozzle). I printed in PETG. Only one of the connectors didn't print well, so I printed a few more. Assembly was easy. I printed the TPU flaps on my prusa mk3s - my god, it's slow. I had to resize them to 90%, otherwise they didn't fit. With 90% the slid in. I just respooled the first roll. No problems. I will attach the assembly to a board with some screws because it tends to wander.
So the way the spool is mounted on the new spool means it can move side to side which isnt great. It needs to be constrained maybe have adjustment screws to fine tune the adjustment.
I have had some trouble with mine... the center screw that moves the triangular base back and forth keeps getting locked up... in your video it is the pink section on the teal drive. It moves smoothly for a few moments and then seems to get stuck... any help would be appreciated!
Finally figured it out. The first run had the center screw printing on its side. I was not using my Bamboo Labs printer. I was using one of my FLSUN printers. They seem to add a little material to the bottoms of things. In this case it was a problem. I re-ran the part in a vertical position with the "fangs" up. FLSUN did not want to process it so I printed the part on my Lotmax Table swinger in a vertical position. Problem solved.
Does the thing with the ptfe tube always have to start in the middle? Or doesn’t it matter? I forgot where mine just started, but it seems to have skipped a little and now it re-spooled unevenly. (From Polyterra cardboard to Bambu spool)
Hi. I would move the PTFE to one side before you feed the filament through to the empty spool and secure the filament at the bottom of the spool, on the same side that it’s going to start spooling across, then you should have an even winde. If not, you will have to look at how fast the filament guide is moving across. I think it’s moving across to fast, looking at the video again, it’s definitely to fast. I don’t know how to modify the Center axle to slow it down. Cheers
Printing now, do you have to respool twice for the tension memory from the old spool? Do you have to heat the filament first? Sorry if those soumd silly I've seen rewound filament shatter after being put on a new spool.
I give up trying to print the 2 female holders. I have tried different filaments, different parameters, different pla, petg, no different. It prints the stem ok, but when it starts printing the curl, it goes into spaghetti mode. I tried at least 15 different ways to print this. The sad part is that I left those parts to the end (I didn't try the whole plate idea) so everything else is printed, but the item is worthless without the spool holders, especially the drive. Anyone else have this problem? I am using a Bambu P1S. If Mr GekoPrime is reading this, please help... Thanks to everyone.
same issue, thats why I try print them first, if success Ill print the others, I slow down very slow 10mm/s at the start of the cone thing until the reverse cone, the rest 50mm for all, I hope designer can make different version of spool holder.
Every time I use my Pastamatic the rolls get tangled and the extruder cannot pull the filament. What is the secret to getting it rerolled on the new spool without tangles?
I think it was makersmuse that did a video on that. What is most likely happening is when slack is let off of the free end and it spools out, the free end can get under itself, but it can be very hard to notice. Then when you're 1 to 2 meters into the roll, the tangle point comes up and filament is popped. If you think it's happened you could try keeping tight slack on spool and unspooling 1 to 2 meters. Someone made a video on it.
I'm having issues now. Even though I'm being careful and going slow, the receiving spool ends up with a very loose wind. And I mean VERY loose. What am I doing wrong? I have the wipers engaged for tension.
I know this is gonna sound silly but are you drilling the receiving spool or the provider? The receiver should be the one drilled so that it applies tension and winds tight.
@@christopherarendt3531 Yes, I am drilling the receiver. I've used the machine a few more times and it works great. I'm not sure what happened the first couple times. I respooled the messy spools just fine.
@Gekkonomorpha I unfortunately do not have a Bambu, would really love to have one though. Could you print this any printer filament printer because I have a Ender 3 and Neptune 2 and this would be amazing to have.
If you have to ask, you've been lucky. I finally hit a spool that was wound poorly in a few spots. First I heard a clicking and it was the filament wound incorrectly and it forcibly pulling the filament to load while printing. I pulled out the filament until it looked smooth again and rerolled while it was still printing. An hour later it happened again except it sounded like something was ramming my printer. Same issue. Seems like every 200g or so the filament is wound incorrectly. Looks like I can add this respooler to things I need to print.
The AMS only fits certain spool heights and widths. Some of my rolls cannot spin on the rollers as they are too wide to fit in the AMS slots. Rather than using the manual slot, I would rather respool onto an empty Bambu spool so I can use the AMS to process my filament.
i stumble across the problem that my spools tend to be uneven, meaning that one side has way more material than the other one. any idea? love the model by the way!
The target spool is only loosely constrained in the axial direction, you can apply pressure with the drill or with your finger to nudge it to one side or the other as needed
this thing was the biggest waste of my time. the portion that directs the filament back and forth gets stuck on half of it and spools only half of the spool.
Nice idea for respooling filaments, but, when you start off, the filament should be fastened on the bottom, on the side of the spool, not at the top of the spool. You are giving people the wrong instructions.. cheers
no, the filament is not supposed to be fastened to the spool for bambu. it needs to be able to pull the end off for the AMS to auto switch to the next available spool of the same material/color and not see it as just a feed error.
If you want to be torchured by this, go ahead,,, This guy has no idea about simplicity. And what 's the reason of 16 ball bearings when palstic friction eleiminated all smoothness, Complete waiste of filament, Auto reversing is used on any overhead fishing reel, but it goes smoothly coz made of metal and much smoother than layered palstic. The whole idea is so mad...
@@one_mega_ohm9139 main problem here is bearing were placed between two walls with tight space. And how it supposed to work when inner and outer rings are the same size? And all friction here multiplied by the number of gears. It's just crazy .. boys have no idea about mechanics. Drawing gears in 3 d is easy, but to see the result..knowledge needed
@@bitbizsydney7463 I guess if you are better at mechanics then maybe you should design and share one yourself. The bearing rides on the inner race via the pins that go through them, if there's too much friction try some grease on the walls. If he made them looser someone would be complaining about that. It's a 3D printed spool roller for goodness sake.
I've used this respooler a few dozen times now (transferred well over 100KG of filament so far) and it's worked flawlessly every time so far. Super fast and super easy to transfer my cardboard spool filaments to plastic ones perfect for my X1s AMSes. It works so well for something I've really needed that I've printed and assembled an extra as a backup for if and when I ever do have any issues with it. As you can see I'm super happy with this BUT if you actually know of a better design please do point me to it. Where's it at and what's it called. I'm game to give it a whirl.
@bitbizsydney7463 I printed YOUR design but I just couldn't get it to work. Fortunately, I didn't waste ANY filament in the print because it was all virtual. If you feel the urge to criticise someone's efforts, at least make the effort to write succinctly and spell words correctly. I'm sorry your basic education failed you so miserably!
I also just printed this and used it, and I at least expected a break in period or something for the gears. Nope, full speed on the first run. It's a good idea to slowly accelerate to full speed, but still. Worked awesome on the first go. Thank you so much for this awesome design.
I just printed, assembled, and used mine for the first time. Absolutely brilliant in it's simplicity, especially the self reversing leadscrew. Excellent work.
This was an awesome make also appreciate the fact you were able to put it on a single x1 build plate
This is exactly what I was looking for. I can't wait to get it printed. Thank you for providing the plans for free. I will try to make a contribution soon.
This is the BEST filament winder! It's wonderfully designed and very easy to assemble. Great job!
I have been looking for something like this for years. At last, I can spool happily.
I'm glad I found this before building the other spool winder, now I am off to unloading some spools through the extruder onto the build plate so I can rewind with other brands!! it sounded good when I said it to myself... LOL
Nice design. I just printed a different spooler last weekend, but this one seems more stable.
Awesome thanks printing it now. I was tired of fiddling with the other complex one. It was a cool design be way finicky.
one of the blocks fell over in the front. I made a new plate with more of a brim. I think it was because I left the door open as well for pla and the temp dropped real low overnight in the room.
I HIGHLY recommend sanding each piece of the gears before putting it together. Mine was so tight and wouldnt budge until I sanded the sides of the gears and used some WD 40 on them for lubrication.
While WD40 is great, it's not a lubricant, and for (plastic) gears you're better off using silicone grease. WD40 and machine lubrication oils make plastic brittle. Good luck!
@@Biru_to I was going to make the same comment. Also be carefull about using any lubricant, As the gears spin fast it may spray on to the filament
Wow what a great design. I really like the auto reversing leadscrew.
This is a Great looking project and MOD and look fwd to printing it. I haven't even taken my X1C out of the box yet as I am cleaning up and organizing my room in order to start a new, I used to print 7 years ago but then I had a stroke. At least I can move around and think now but much has changed. Wow has it!!! Switching colors required stopping the print. I have some questions tho yep a NEWBIE I am again! I downloaded all the files for the print and WOW can all that stuff on the X1 bed be printed? It looks like the head will crash into other objects? Also I see this print is done in multiple colors does the AMS know this in the program on the ones to switch colors on? Sorry for the Juvenile Questions but I have to learn how to walk again! :) oh by the way dont go to a Chiropractor one adjusted my neck and tore an ARTERY. It then bled clotted and the clot went to my brain.... POW Instant STROKE.. Thanks All!
Just finished the print (which took 12 hours with a 0.6 nozzle). I printed in PETG. Only one of the connectors didn't print well, so I printed a few more. Assembly was easy. I printed the TPU flaps on my prusa mk3s - my god, it's slow. I had to resize them to 90%, otherwise they didn't fit. With 90% the slid in.
I just respooled the first roll. No problems. I will attach the assembly to a board with some screws because it tends to wander.
I just used it for the first time. SO GOOD!
My brookstick between 2 shelves and a drill is looking really outdated. I have this going right now. I probably have some bearings laying around.
Well, I'll be printing that next week.
Top notch design!
I figured out the triangle goes on one shaft to hold down the spool but is it for the receiver or the provider
So the way the spool is mounted on the new spool means it can move side to side which isnt great. It needs to be constrained maybe have adjustment screws to fine tune the adjustment.
That looks fantastic!
I hate the cardboard spools because of their debris
Awesome! Hey do you remember what filament you used for this video? I'm looking for a lighter black and this seems pretty close!
I have had some trouble with mine... the center screw that moves the triangular base back and forth keeps getting locked up... in your video it is the pink section on the teal drive. It moves smoothly for a few moments and then seems to get stuck... any help would be appreciated!
I'm having the same problem. I can't get full travel and the thing locks up and does the left handed watusi on me. Help!
I reprinted the travel sections and that seemed to help.@@TomDillen-r5o
Finally figured it out. The first run had the center screw printing on its side. I was not using my Bamboo Labs printer. I was using one of my FLSUN printers. They seem to add a little material to the bottoms of things. In this case it was a problem. I re-ran the part in a vertical position with the "fangs" up. FLSUN did not want to process it so I printed the part on my Lotmax Table swinger in a vertical position. Problem solved.
Does the thing with the ptfe tube always have to start in the middle? Or doesn’t it matter? I forgot where mine just started, but it seems to have skipped a little and now it re-spooled unevenly. (From Polyterra cardboard to Bambu spool)
Hi. I would move the PTFE to one side before you feed the filament through to the empty spool and secure the filament at the bottom of the spool, on the same side that it’s going to start spooling across, then you should have an even winde. If not, you will have to look at how fast the filament guide is moving across. I think it’s moving across to fast, looking at the video again, it’s definitely to fast. I don’t know how to modify the Center axle to slow it down. Cheers
can i use a 3Kg Cardboard Spool to Transfer it to a Plastic one for AMS? The Diameter and with are much bigger than the 1kg to 1Kg. Thanks
Very Smart design. I am using a 2kg spool and the passive spool axe is too short. Is there a way to make it longer?
Adam Savage shows how to in a video he made on this.
@@metallicakmm I was able to modify the legs and lengthen them. Thanks
@@kbruin79 yeah, I know your comment is a couple months old, but figured what if.
is everything all party 3d print, or a bunch of screws and bearings, looking for 3d print only.
Printing now, do you have to respool twice for the tension memory from the old spool? Do you have to heat the filament first? Sorry if those soumd silly I've seen rewound filament shatter after being put on a new spool.
Nope! I just do it once. I go through filament pretty fast so mine probably isn't so brittle
I give up trying to print the 2 female holders. I have tried different filaments, different parameters, different pla, petg, no different. It prints the stem ok, but when it starts printing the curl, it goes into spaghetti mode. I tried at least 15 different ways to print this. The sad part is that I left those parts to the end (I didn't try the whole plate idea) so everything else is printed, but the item is worthless without the spool holders, especially the drive. Anyone else have this problem? I am using a Bambu P1S. If Mr GekoPrime is reading this, please help... Thanks to everyone.
I had similar issues, had to do the parts individually with a raft, it was the best way i was able to prevent a failure
same issue, thats why I try print them first, if success Ill print the others, I slow down very slow 10mm/s at the start of the cone thing until the reverse cone, the rest 50mm for all, I hope designer can make different version of spool holder.
250mm/s and no problem at all
Every time I use my Pastamatic the rolls get tangled and the extruder cannot pull the filament. What is the secret to getting it rerolled on the new spool without tangles?
I think it was makersmuse that did a video on that. What is most likely happening is when slack is let off of the free end and it spools out, the free end can get under itself, but it can be very hard to notice. Then when you're 1 to 2 meters into the roll, the tangle point comes up and filament is popped. If you think it's happened you could try keeping tight slack on spool and unspooling 1 to 2 meters. Someone made a video on it.
Wait a minute, is this 3kg spool put into a 1k roll for AMS?, based on what i saw online, how??
I have the new A1 Mini. How much of this will I be able print?
I'm having issues now. Even though I'm being careful and going slow, the receiving spool ends up with a very loose wind. And I mean VERY loose. What am I doing wrong? I have the wipers engaged for tension.
I know this is gonna sound silly but are you drilling the receiving spool or the provider? The receiver should be the one drilled so that it applies tension and winds tight.
@@christopherarendt3531 Yes, I am drilling the receiver. I've used the machine a few more times and it works great. I'm not sure what happened the first couple times. I respooled the messy spools just fine.
Hi, where can i purchase one of these from.i can really do with one right now
What's the point of winding the filament from one spool to another?
To get it off the cardboard spool and onto a plastic one. The AMS for the X1c doesn't like cardboard spools.
Will the AMS figure out the spool is full again? Or is the RFID "spent"?
RFID never measures the amount on the roll. Only the type of filament and color
@@TheZionPhil it only works for me on Bambu spools though
@Gekkonomorpha I unfortunately do not have a Bambu, would really love to have one though. Could you print this any printer filament printer because I have a Ender 3 and Neptune 2 and this would be amazing to have.
Yup, it should work on any printer
Question. Why do we need to rewind a spool?
So you don't have to deal with cardboard spools or shittily wound spools that constantly jam your ams.
If you have to ask, you've been lucky. I finally hit a spool that was wound poorly in a few spots. First I heard a clicking and it was the filament wound incorrectly and it forcibly pulling the filament to load while printing. I pulled out the filament until it looked smooth again and rerolled while it was still printing. An hour later it happened again except it sounded like something was ramming my printer. Same issue. Seems like every 200g or so the filament is wound incorrectly. Looks like I can add this respooler to things I need to print.
I like this design , 🧐
So why do you have to respool for the AMS???
The AMS only fits certain spool heights and widths. Some of my rolls cannot spin on the rollers as they are too wide to fit in the AMS slots. Rather than using the manual slot, I would rather respool onto an empty Bambu spool so I can use the AMS to process my filament.
Does anyone know how many uses before parts wear out?
It uses bearings so I’d say quite a while
i stumble across the problem that my spools tend to be uneven, meaning that one side has way more material than the other one. any idea?
love the model by the way!
The target spool is only loosely constrained in the axial direction, you can apply pressure with the drill or with your finger to nudge it to one side or the other as needed
🤘🤘
Link doesn't work
Sorry, it's truncated while I'm waiting for TH-cam's anti-spam verification. Search for "Pastamatic" on Printables
Nice
this thing was the biggest waste of my time. the portion that directs the filament back and forth gets stuck on half of it and spools only half of the spool.
Nice idea for respooling filaments, but, when you start off, the filament should be fastened on the bottom, on the side of the spool, not at the top of the spool.
You are giving people the wrong instructions.. cheers
no, the filament is not supposed to be fastened to the spool for bambu. it needs to be able to pull the end off for the AMS to auto switch to the next available spool of the same material/color and not see it as just a feed error.
i had some experience with the other rewinder, but so many parts .. this one looks far to easier and thus superior :-D
you are insane. lol
If you want to be torchured by this, go ahead,,, This guy has no idea about simplicity. And what 's the reason of 16 ball bearings when palstic friction eleiminated all smoothness, Complete waiste of filament, Auto reversing is used on any overhead fishing reel, but it goes smoothly coz made of metal and much smoother than layered palstic. The whole idea is so mad...
I don't see why any of that would cause it to shoot flames at you
@@one_mega_ohm9139 main problem here is bearing were placed between two walls with tight space. And how it supposed to work when inner and outer rings are the same size? And all friction here multiplied by the number of gears. It's just crazy .. boys have no idea about mechanics. Drawing gears in 3 d is easy, but to see the result..knowledge needed
@@bitbizsydney7463 I guess if you are better at mechanics then maybe you should design and share one yourself. The bearing rides on the inner race via the pins that go through them, if there's too much friction try some grease on the walls. If he made them looser someone would be complaining about that. It's a 3D printed spool roller for goodness sake.
I've used this respooler a few dozen times now (transferred well over 100KG of filament so far) and it's worked flawlessly every time so far. Super fast and super easy to transfer my cardboard spool filaments to plastic ones perfect for my X1s AMSes. It works so well for something I've really needed that I've printed and assembled an extra as a backup for if and when I ever do have any issues with it.
As you can see I'm super happy with this BUT if you actually know of a better design please do point me to it. Where's it at and what's it called. I'm game to give it a whirl.
@bitbizsydney7463 I printed YOUR design but I just couldn't get it to work. Fortunately, I didn't waste ANY filament in the print because it was all virtual. If you feel the urge to criticise someone's efforts, at least make the effort to write succinctly and spell words correctly. I'm sorry your basic education failed you so miserably!
Беру!!!)