Check my community page for photos of all torque specs from 2 seperate repair manuals front camshaft oil seal retainer bolts - 9nm camshaft timing belt pulley bolt - 98nm timing belt idler pulley bolt - 34nm timing belt tensioner bolts - 6nm timing belt cover bolts - 6nm crankshaft balancer nut - 363nm injection pump to timing belt casing nut - 21nm rocker cover bolts - 9nm
Great video. Very detailed. I am in the process of fitting a new head to a 1995 1KZ-TE. Even though I lined up the timing belt/fuel pump marks (by turning the crank clockwise with a spanner) before removing the belt, I have noticed that my crank mark is 4-5 cm passed the pin. I would have thought it should have also been aligned (TDC)? Could this mean that some genius has misaligned the pump drive gears that you show in this video. When re-installing, I am not sure if I should set the crank to the mark, or just go with it the way it is. Pretty sure the crank hasn't moved since I started. Thanks again for any thoughts you can offer.
Your crank pulley may be worn and potentially slipped. Its too risky to wing it so i would recommend getting a new crank pulley and then making sure all of your timing gears and pulleys are aligned properly
Hey mate, great video if you are just replacing the head. Would you set motor to TDC. Before undoing tensioner would you crack the cam shaft cog loose. Then remove tensioner. Then when it come to reinstalling. Loosely tight cam shaft cog. Align to TDC then install timing belt alignment correctly. Then tension belt, then torque can shaft cog to correct nm. Cheers
take it apart at TDC and the put it back together at TDC. For timing belt - the cam gears are keyed to the cam shaft as is the fuel injection pump pulley/gear keyed to the pump. That means they can only go on one way. that makes it super clear that if the gears are on their marks (including main pulley) then line up the marks on your belt with the marks on the gears. the gears should be lined up with the marks on the engine block and then everything is timed correctly. Crank it over by hand a bunch of times to check if the motor spins freely and if it does you've done it right
very good and important information to learn. HELP ME UNDERSTAND HOW YOU CAN CORRECT THE GEAR WITH 5-5 AND 4-4 IF YOU FORGET TO PUT A BOLT TO LOCK THE GEARS NOT TO SPIN? THANK YOU
get creative. hold one half in a vice with soft jaws and clock the other half with a custom tool that looks like an angle grinder key/spanner. once you put the tension back in the gear but a bolt in and jobs done.
I watched you carefully your alright mate, just rem to check crank mark as final those pullyes can still be out on diesel pump and be ok if crank to cam ol
Oh boy…. I wished I had watched this video before dismantling mine ! That gear that needs the bolt inserted to hold the three sections together before removing it…..I didn’t do that… didn’t know however it didn’t spring apart or anything. I could see that the three sections turn independently but they stayed together as I put it on the bench. I hope it all goes back together ok 😬
Yeah I did that my first time. You can always make a simple tool to re tension the gear. The one I made was just steel and 2 small but long enough bolts Kind of looked like a giant angle grinder locking nut key
I just found your videos, and so far I'm enjoying the 1KZ videos very much. With that said, I need some help. I imported a 1996 Hilux Surf into the States, with the 1KZ-TE engine. It ran fine for about a year, and then it just wouldn't start. A friend of mine with a Diesel Pick-Up said to pull the battery leads to reset the ECU. I did, and it started and ran fine (allowing me to drive it 30 miles home)..and it ran perfect..no acceleration issues, no stalls, nothing. It ran as it should all the way home, but once I got home...it wouldn't start again, ECU reset or not. I replaced the fuel filter, and checked all relays and fuses. I've not been able to find anyone with any idea why. Would you have any ideas that might help? Thank you in advance!
Just fitted timing belt to my Toyota HiAce van 1kz-te , new tensioner pulley and tensioner all the lines lined up as it should but when I tightened up the tensioner pulley it send it send a bit tight it didn't move freely that easy I fitted the washer at the back all seems ok fitted tensioner not sure what tensions meant to be on the belt
Hi mate, great video, but a quick question for you, my timing gears do not have any timing marks on them, so, what position should I have the fuel pump shaft? Woodruff key at 12 o'clock? Also do you have any ideas on how I can reset the Idler Pulley, forgot to put the bolt in it and it sprung back
yep anything with a woodruff key generally faces 12 o'clock get creative. For the idler gear hold one half in a vice with soft jaws and clock the other half with a custom tool that looks like an angle grinder key/spanner. once you put the tension back in the gear but a bolt in and jobs done.
Hello dingle, thanks for the videos they are great, i am currently undergoing the timing on my 1kzte kzn185 at first everything seemed okay until i got to the cam shaft nut, we managed to block the cam and remove it but maybe it moved ever so slightly as my timing is now out... So now im on to this video :o). However im not sure if before I start wether I should have my camshaft and gear on TDC with the marks aligned before adjusting the helicon gears below? I saw also during this video once you install the cambelt you crank it slightly to adjust the camshaft ?? :o haha cheers
without the timing belt installed the top end (head and cams) and the bottom end aren't linked or connected. you can time the helical gears without the cams and their gears in the correct positions. hell, you can time the bottom end with out a cylinder head installed. When it comes time to install the timing belt make sure your injection pump gear, cam gears and main pulley are aligned to their respective TDC marks. In the video I slightly adjust my camshaft as it wasn't perfectly aligned with TDC
The usual diy method is to tighten it when the engine is in the car and bolted to the gearbox. Put it in gear with the handbrake on and you should be able to torque it down. Another method is to put rope down the injector hole on the cylinder head (when the piston is on the power stroke so you don't bend valves) If you cram enough rope in, when it gets compressed it will stop the crank from spinning and you can tighten it that way. Or just send it with an Impact gun (then double check when it's back in the car and bolted to the rest of the drivetrain)
Yeah I do, I have decent blow by cos my turbo is so old. Considering they are so cheap it's a good idea! Have you done an EGR delete? If not then a catch can is a must
@dingeldiy EGR is deleted. So what if I just vent it to the ground? My VW is set up that way but it does have a puck can on top that the hose comes out of
no, as long as all the gears inside the timing case remain untouched. once you reinstall the head just install the timing belt as normal with all of your components set to their correct marks/tdc
This is excellent content, Thanks for doing these vids! Do you by chance know why these pumps have elongated mounting holes which allow the pump to twist a wee bit back/fourth? Cheers man!
Hey Rob, fantastic video mate, I want your opinión pls I got 2001 hilux 1kz, only 149k on it, so I'm watching all these timing belt videos getting confident to do it myself at the 150k ,but I've heard a few saying should replace water pump at same time ( which I'm not really confident about) is this really necesary? Would you/did you do it same time ? Cheers
Good day sir. This a Great detailed video. I appreciate your efforts. What if both timing belt marks are ahead of the marks on body one tooth each side. Is it normal. Or one should make sure of all marks align, marks on belt and body. In my case 2 of the belt marks are ahead one tooth each side on body marks, one of my friends suggests me that this normal, leave it now and go ahead. What is your opinion your reply would be helpful. Regards
@@nabillawrencheeralal the idler gear is 3 pieces that are sprung together. If you don't put that retaining bolt in when you remove the gear it will release the tension inside the gear. I don't know why the gear is designed like this or how it works but I'm sure it's important. It may be possible to remove the fuel pump gear and leave the rest of the gears in place. This may be enough to keep the idler gear locked but I'm not sure. Did you notice anything move or hear anything? Was it hard to re assemble the timing gears? I'll try help if you can let me know what it was that you were doing!
I was looking for the same question and thought there would be a answer. I did the same and forgot the lock screw. When I took it off there was no real spring load in all 3 gears. So I turn the rear gear to the right and aligned the front to the same position that front and rear hole were aligned. I am sure you have to set them under that spring load right (if there is a spring load, mine didn't feel spring loaded). My head mechanic said it can make a noise. The manual actually gives you instructions how to take it apart and put it back together. I was a bit to lazy to do that. I will see in a couple of days if it noisy. How was yours after assembly?
We are stuck on the crank bolt. Need to do this job because I think we messed up the timing as the the cam gear moved when trying to undo the nut. Frustrated beyond belief and wish I had left it to the pros!
if the bottom end timing is correct then all you need to do is remove the timing belt, set everything to tdc (the injection pump gear, crank pulley and cam gears) and put the timing belt back on. As always, turn the engine over by hand a few cycles to make sure you got it right.
Great video thanks for posting it. Your “focus you fuck” should be directed to me as once I had the new belt on I turned the crank over and messed up the mark location.😅 Have taken the valve cover off and turned the crank to match the fuel pump gear mark and then the cam to align the cam gear mark. Then put the new belt back on followed by the tensioner and pulled pin before turning the crank over one complete rotation of the belt and All marks align with the belt. My question is, Is the injection fuel pump in time with the proper cylinder top dead centre? Little foggy on that and wonder if you may shed some light on that. Will ask around in the mean time. Thanks again for the great content!
Aligning your fuel pump pulley, cam gear and main crank pulley with their respective marks on the engine will ensure everything is where it needs to be at top dead centre.
@@dingeldiy thanks for responding. Have it all together and good to go. I am currently flying with your RFS fire crews who are up and helping us here in Alberta Canada with the bush fires. We are getting some rain which is giving us opportunity to get a handle on things. Great group and awesome to have them.
I managed to change the timing belt on my old Toyota Hiace LH30 diesel . I did not see any timing marks on the pump pully so I would have lost the timing. However I did manage to lock the pump pully solid with the engine at top dead centre using bolts through the pully before I pulled it apart. A bit foolish but I got away with it. If anyone knows the correct procedure, please let me know. lol
There seem to be various ways to avoid that or at least minimize the risk (different thermostat, external oil cooler, additional/more accurate temperature gauges). Apparently they usually die/crack within the first 100.000km or live forever.
If you dont like the idea of modifying the car then maybe go with something less likley to overheat like a petrol version. Otherwise start with cheap sensible mods like an EGT and water temp gauge, then move on to things like thermostat, 10 blade fan, cleaning out your radiator, replacing the radiator cap and general maintenance. If youve got the time and budget a 3 inch exhasut, intercooler, hood scoop and snorkel will go a long way. These cars only get hot when theyre driving up big hills on hot days or when towing up hill. Otherwise they're fine!
@@dingeldiyfor sure I mean these 2gen 4runner or a 1kz are good cars. Everytime I pass any garage I swear to you there is at least 2 to 3 hilux surf just sitting there or abandoned I asked the mechanic what's wrong with them, he said it won't start or blown motor or a replaced the engine but won't start. idk if it's me or the owners didn't know what was coming.
if you did it properly you would have taken the balance shaft out of the engine before doing the timing, as any engineer worth is salt will tell you the ballance shaft is the main cause of failure on those engines
as in remove the balance shafts entirely? haven't heard of this and i'm wondering how does it help, and what happens with the oil galleries once its missing?
Great video. How much Nm for tightening the cambolt and the injection pump but?
Check my community page for photos of all torque specs from 2 seperate repair manuals
front camshaft oil seal retainer bolts - 9nm
camshaft timing belt pulley bolt - 98nm
timing belt idler pulley bolt - 34nm
timing belt tensioner bolts - 6nm
timing belt cover bolts - 6nm
crankshaft balancer nut - 363nm
injection pump to timing belt casing nut - 21nm
rocker cover bolts - 9nm
Whats up from US! Using these videos to understand how the 1kz I have in my Hiace works. You're a legend man thanks for the videos.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
EXELLENT job of explaining gear timing without any scrappy music and dribble, top job bruv
Much appreciated! Thanks for the positive feedback!
Attempting a head replacement with the motor still inside supercustom. Difficult spot to work but this video has helped a lot thank-you!
Glad it helped!
Yeah
@@dingeldiy ppp0p00p0
Awesome mate, just what I wanted, KZJ95R owner, NZ.
Thanks for watching, I hope to have earned your subscription!
Appreciate the video. Working on a prado in US about to do turbo and timing kit. Ive done vw diesel timing and this looks so much easier.
Thanks for the comment! The 1kz is the good kind of simple 😀
Great video. Very detailed. I am in the process of fitting a new head to a 1995 1KZ-TE. Even though I lined up the timing belt/fuel pump marks (by turning the crank clockwise with a spanner) before removing the belt, I have noticed that my crank mark is 4-5 cm passed the pin. I would have thought it should have also been aligned (TDC)? Could this mean that some genius has misaligned the pump drive gears that you show in this video. When re-installing, I am not sure if I should set the crank to the mark, or just go with it the way it is. Pretty sure the crank hasn't moved since I started. Thanks again for any thoughts you can offer.
Your crank pulley may be worn and potentially slipped. Its too risky to wing it so i would recommend getting a new crank pulley and then making sure all of your timing gears and pulleys are aligned properly
I'm happy for the training and to now more about 2kd Toyota.
Best of luck on it!
Great video and very precise and well explained thanks mate from nz
Glad it helped
Great video what's the torch setting on the warter pump bolts please nm
www.manualslib.com/manual/1028061/Toyota-1kz-Te.html?page=80#manual
13nm according to this
Awesome video , Thanks !
You are welcome!
Hey mate, great video if you are just replacing the head. Would you set motor to TDC. Before undoing tensioner would you crack the cam shaft cog loose. Then remove tensioner. Then when it come to reinstalling. Loosely tight cam shaft cog. Align to TDC then install timing belt alignment correctly. Then tension belt, then torque can shaft cog to correct nm. Cheers
take it apart at TDC and the put it back together at TDC. For timing belt - the cam gears are keyed to the cam shaft as is the fuel injection pump pulley/gear keyed to the pump. That means they can only go on one way. that makes it super clear that if the gears are on their marks (including main pulley) then line up the marks on your belt with the marks on the gears. the gears should be lined up with the marks on the engine block and then everything is timed correctly. Crank it over by hand a bunch of times to check if the motor spins freely and if it does you've done it right
I like the way you explain
Thanks!
good job sir,this is very helpful content,how about 4d56 sir where is the timing mark?,and thank you so much sir for the info.
Sorry I can't help. I have no idea what a 4d56 is
Great video dude 👍🏾
Appreciate it
very good and important information to learn.
HELP ME UNDERSTAND HOW YOU CAN CORRECT THE GEAR WITH 5-5 AND 4-4 IF YOU FORGET TO PUT A BOLT TO LOCK THE GEARS NOT TO SPIN?
THANK YOU
get creative. hold one half in a vice with soft jaws and clock the other half with a custom tool that looks like an angle grinder key/spanner. once you put the tension back in the gear but a bolt in and jobs done.
Very nice 👍
Informative video
Glad you liked it
thank you very much in detail .
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a million. Very informative
Glad it was helpful!
very helpful thanks !
Glad it helped!
I watched you carefully your alright mate, just rem to check crank mark as final those pullyes can still be out on diesel pump and be ok if crank to cam ol
cheers for this! I did forget to mention that! thanks for watching too!
Could you elaborate on this more? Are you saying the injector pump and cam can still be out of alignment with crank after putting belt on?
WOW! you make it look so easy, the engine being out of the ute that is...lol
Thanks! I definitely took my time but had to edit the video to keep people interested!
@@dingeldiy I’m gonna give it a go my self, gotta learn some how some day can’t afford to pay a mechanic these days. Thanks for the videos 👍
@@Cameron_D That's exactly how I got into all of this automotive stuff!
Oh boy…. I wished I had watched this video before dismantling mine !
That gear that needs the bolt inserted to hold the three sections together before removing it…..I didn’t do that… didn’t know however it didn’t spring apart or anything. I could see that the three sections turn independently but they stayed together as I put it on the bench. I hope it all goes back together ok 😬
Yeah I did that my first time. You can always make a simple tool to re tension the gear.
The one I made was just steel and 2 small but long enough bolts
Kind of looked like a giant angle grinder locking nut key
I just found your videos, and so far I'm enjoying the 1KZ videos very much. With that said, I need some help. I imported a 1996 Hilux Surf into the States, with the 1KZ-TE engine. It ran fine for about a year, and then it just wouldn't start. A friend of mine with a Diesel Pick-Up said to pull the battery leads to reset the ECU. I did, and it started and ran fine (allowing me to drive it 30 miles home)..and it ran perfect..no acceleration issues, no stalls, nothing. It ran as it should all the way home, but once I got home...it wouldn't start again, ECU reset or not. I replaced the fuel filter, and checked all relays and fuses. I've not been able to find anyone with any idea why. Would you have any ideas that might help? Thank you in advance!
I'm not sure myself but sometimes the ECU's on these fail, short out or have cracked solder joints so start with that!
Hey make, can you use the same tensioner twice? Or should i replace it?
Everything should be replaced after 100,000 kms - in this video I reused my timing kit because I knew it was only 6 months old
Very helpful for video
Thanks very much. Did you put any of the info to use?
Just fitted timing belt to my Toyota HiAce van 1kz-te , new tensioner pulley and tensioner all the lines lined up as it should but when I tightened up the tensioner pulley it send it send a bit tight it didn't move freely that easy I fitted the washer at the back all seems ok fitted tensioner not sure what tensions meant to be on the belt
Timing belts are meant to be pretty tight. You can always take the tensioner back off and try again. you should be able to compress it in a vice
Hi mate, great video, but a quick question for you, my timing gears do not have any timing marks on them, so, what position should I have the fuel pump shaft? Woodruff key at 12 o'clock? Also do you have any ideas on how I can reset the Idler Pulley, forgot to put the bolt in it and it sprung back
yep anything with a woodruff key generally faces 12 o'clock get creative.
For the idler gear hold one half in a vice with soft jaws and clock the other half with a custom tool that looks like an angle grinder key/spanner. once you put the tension back in the gear but a bolt in and jobs done.
Hello dingle, thanks for the videos they are great, i am currently undergoing the timing on my 1kzte kzn185 at first everything seemed okay until i got to the cam shaft nut, we managed to block the cam and remove it but maybe it moved ever so slightly as my timing is now out... So now im on to this video :o). However im not sure if before I start wether I should have my camshaft and gear on TDC with the marks aligned before adjusting the helicon gears below? I saw also during this video once you install the cambelt you crank it slightly to adjust the camshaft ?? :o haha cheers
without the timing belt installed the top end (head and cams) and the bottom end aren't linked or connected. you can time the helical gears without the cams and their gears in the correct positions. hell, you can time the bottom end with out a cylinder head installed.
When it comes time to install the timing belt make sure your injection pump gear, cam gears and main pulley are aligned to their respective TDC marks. In the video I slightly adjust my camshaft as it wasn't perfectly aligned with TDC
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Good share mr thanks you
So nice of you
So lefty loosey righty tighty for the cam pulley bolt? No reverse thread hijinks?
there are no reverse threads
@@dingeldiy cheers!
That was great
Thankyou! Hope it got you out of trouble and in to the shed!
How do you tighten the crankshaft bolt without turning the crankshaft?
The usual diy method is to tighten it when the engine is in the car and bolted to the gearbox. Put it in gear with the handbrake on and you should be able to torque it down.
Another method is to put rope down the injector hole on the cylinder head (when the piston is on the power stroke so you don't bend valves)
If you cram enough rope in, when it gets compressed it will stop the crank from spinning and you can tighten it that way.
Or just send it with an Impact gun (then double check when it's back in the car and bolted to the rest of the drivetrain)
Good work
Cheers mate! Did you attempt yourself?
Hey do you use a catch can on yours? Im interested in getting one. I dont believe the oil vapor going through turbo is good for it
Yeah I do, I have decent blow by cos my turbo is so old. Considering they are so cheap it's a good idea! Have you done an EGR delete? If not then a catch can is a must
@dingeldiy EGR is deleted. So what if I just vent it to the ground? My VW is set up that way but it does have a puck can on top that the hose comes out of
@@BRWfilms i guess venting to atmosphere is a concern for 4x4 when doing river crossings etc
@@dingeldiy yeah that makes sense
So if I am just replacing the cylinder head do I need todo this also?
no, as long as all the gears inside the timing case remain untouched. once you reinstall the head just install the timing belt as normal with all of your components set to their correct marks/tdc
This is excellent content, Thanks for doing these vids! Do you by chance know why these pumps have elongated mounting holes which allow the pump to twist a wee bit back/fourth? Cheers man!
Nevermind, I found the answer in your other video :)
th-cam.com/video/Nkx056IHtkw/w-d-xo.html
The elongated holes help with installing the pump as well as adjust timing. The pump can be clocked slightly to change its timing.
Good job
Thanks!
Great ❤
Thank you for watching!
thanks for sharing
No problems, thanks for watching!
I was taught not to press hydraulic tensioners back in. but if it works it works aye
I haven't had it bite me in the ass yet! Thanks for watching
Hey Rob, fantastic video mate, I want your opinión pls I got 2001 hilux 1kz, only 149k on it, so I'm watching all these timing belt videos getting confident to do it myself at the 150k ,but I've heard a few saying should replace water pump at same time ( which I'm not really confident about) is this really necesary? Would you/did you do it same time ? Cheers
Hey mate, if it's not leaking, don't touch it!
Best of luck. First time is always the hardest. Let me know how you go!
Good day sir. This a Great detailed video. I appreciate your efforts. What if both timing belt marks are ahead of the marks on body one tooth each side. Is it normal. Or one should make sure of all marks align, marks on belt and body. In my case 2 of the belt marks are ahead one tooth each side on body marks, one of my friends suggests me that this normal, leave it now and go ahead. What is your opinion your reply would be helpful. Regards
In my experience all timing marks need to line up exactly when changing belts
thank you very much
You are welcome
Why is it necessary to retention the idler pulley? I only realized I didn't do this bit after watching this video and my engine sealed already.
The idler gear I mean in the timing case
@@nabillawrencheeralal the idler gear is 3 pieces that are sprung together. If you don't put that retaining bolt in when you remove the gear it will release the tension inside the gear. I don't know why the gear is designed like this or how it works but I'm sure it's important.
It may be possible to remove the fuel pump gear and leave the rest of the gears in place. This may be enough to keep the idler gear locked but I'm not sure.
Did you notice anything move or hear anything? Was it hard to re assemble the timing gears? I'll try help if you can let me know what it was that you were doing!
I was looking for the same question and thought there would be a answer. I did the same and forgot the lock screw. When I took it off there was no real spring load in all 3 gears. So I turn the rear gear to the right and aligned the front to the same position that front and rear hole were aligned. I am sure you have to set them under that spring load right (if there is a spring load, mine didn't feel spring loaded). My head mechanic said it can make a noise. The manual actually gives you instructions how to take it apart and put it back together. I was a bit to lazy to do that. I will see in a couple of days if it noisy.
How was yours after assembly?
How did you do up the injector pump nut ?
same as the cam gear nut once the timing belt is installed
We are stuck on the crank bolt. Need to do this job because I think we messed up the timing as the the cam gear moved when trying to undo the nut. Frustrated beyond belief and wish I had left it to the pros!
if the bottom end timing is correct then all you need to do is remove the timing belt, set everything to tdc (the injection pump gear, crank pulley and cam gears) and put the timing belt back on. As always, turn the engine over by hand a few cycles to make sure you got it right.
Why is it when I install the injector pump pulley the hood lob key faces down instead at 10to
Sounds to me like your 180 degrees off tdc. no biggie as long as everything else is off by the same amount
whats the torque specs for the tensioner bolts and idler please
www.manualslib.com/manual/1028061/Toyota-1kz-Te.html?page=101&term=Timing+Belt+Components&selected=1#manual
Great video thanks for posting it. Your “focus you fuck” should be directed to me as once I had the new belt on I turned the crank over and messed up the mark location.😅
Have taken the valve cover off and turned the crank to match the fuel pump gear mark and then the cam to align the cam gear mark. Then put the new belt back on followed by the tensioner and pulled pin before turning the crank over one complete rotation of the belt and All marks align with the belt. My question is, Is the injection fuel pump in time with the proper cylinder top dead centre? Little foggy on that and wonder if you may shed some light on that. Will ask around in the mean time.
Thanks again for the great content!
Aligning your fuel pump pulley, cam gear and main crank pulley with their respective marks on the engine will ensure everything is where it needs to be at top dead centre.
@@dingeldiy thanks for responding. Have it all together and good to go. I am currently flying with your RFS fire crews who are up and helping us here in Alberta Canada with the bush fires. We are getting some rain which is giving us opportunity to get a handle on things. Great group and awesome to have them.
My 1kd engine is idling but no acceleration...no codes snowing up...firstly now power then this...any suggestions. Thsnks
Check the timing on your fuel pump and all of your wiring connections on the whole engine
Muy lindo video
Thanks for watching!
I got a Toyota Prado 1996 turbo diesel 1 kzte it surging when immediately accelerating
If your timing is correct then your fuel system will most likely need an overhaul
There's is no need to mark a vacuum pump right
correct, it's just a pump, same as the power steering pump
Interesante la información me interesaría en español .colombia..
I will have to learn Spanish! In the meantime I think you are able to turn on translate captions? If you have any questions let me know
I managed to change the timing belt on my old Toyota Hiace LH30 diesel . I did not see any timing marks on the pump pully so I would have lost the timing. However I did manage to lock the pump pully solid with the engine at top dead centre using bolts through the pully before I pulled it apart. A bit foolish but I got away with it. If anyone knows the correct procedure, please let me know. lol
if it works , it works!
Great
cheers
Thanks you to Idea
Thanks to you
Bro i feel like buying a hilux surf with 1kz. very cheap here but i fear the overheating probably that can destroy the head
There seem to be various ways to avoid that or at least minimize the risk (different thermostat, external oil cooler, additional/more accurate temperature gauges). Apparently they usually die/crack within the first 100.000km or live forever.
If you dont like the idea of modifying the car then maybe go with something less likley to overheat like a petrol version. Otherwise start with cheap sensible mods like an EGT and water temp gauge, then move on to things like thermostat, 10 blade fan, cleaning out your radiator, replacing the radiator cap and general maintenance. If youve got the time and budget a 3 inch exhasut, intercooler, hood scoop and snorkel will go a long way.
These cars only get hot when theyre driving up big hills on hot days or when towing up hill. Otherwise they're fine!
@@dingeldiyfor sure I mean these 2gen 4runner or a 1kz are good cars.
Everytime I pass any garage I swear to you there is at least 2 to 3 hilux surf just sitting there or abandoned
I asked the mechanic what's wrong with them, he said it won't start or blown motor or a replaced the engine but won't start. idk if it's me or the owners didn't know what was coming.
@@jdmgm6765 sad times for those surfs :(
Já aprendi muita coisa
Muito obrigado! Em que carro você está trabalhando?
Great video. Loved "focus you fuck" at 9.30m. You explain the task really well!! My 1KZ will definitely benefit when I replace the timing belt
Glad you liked it!
👏👏
Thanks for watching!
Valeu
Thanks for watching !
Please I wanna work with you
Collab?
Am finished but is noking
Check your oil pressure, compression test and maybe clock the fuel pump to dial in the timing.
Focus you fuck i swear to god hahahah legend mate
Thanks for the comment!
show timingmarks
They're there. Get stuck in to your engine and they will be obvious
Hei vro my help me
how can i help?
Why do you keep on saying fuel pump instead of fuel injection pump. Removal and installation of these items are completely different to each other.
Sorry for the confusion. I thought there was only one pump that being the fuel injection pump
if you did it properly you would have taken the balance shaft out of the engine before doing the timing, as any engineer worth is salt will tell you the ballance shaft is the main cause of failure on those engines
as in remove the balance shafts entirely? haven't heard of this and i'm wondering how does it help, and what happens with the oil galleries once its missing?
Parlé le français
thanks for watching
you
L
Hi you too!