Hey Tim, Thank you for continuing to offer great content for DIY'ers and small tractor owners. I have a 3 acre overgrown pasture of very wet land that the previous owner cut a 3' ditch into and cows made a huge mess out of, Its bumpy from the continued use and wet in spring, but dries out in summer. My plan is to install drain tile from the wood line to the creek in the center. The slope should accommodate this nicely, rough estimate is 3'-4' of drop over the 200', the north side of the creek might be less slope, but some. Before I can get my buddy's mini-excavator in to dig the ditches for the drain tile I need to tame this "Pasture", at lease get it to a point where we can work. My initial thought is to mow the the 3' tall grasses with a rotary mower, but the more I explore the "Pasture" the more bumps and holes I find, this makes me think of starting with a box blade or straight blade, ignoring the grasses until I have the soil flatter. Does going really slow and high with the brush-hog make sense then working the soil, or visa-versa. I only have a loader and belly mower right now so I need to select my initial purchase carefully, what do you think is the best approach?
Hard to level a pasture with heavy sod. Box blade might be ok, but you will drag up a lot of weeds and brush. Brush mower is good idea. Mow it several times this winter if possible. Then, perhaps a tiller if possible? Or perhaps a disk harrow. Unfortunately, small disk harrows don’t cut well in sod. Box blade MIGHT work …but it will be frustrating.
Tim, I love this level of detail in your content. You don't do this every video so the balance is right. But watching you struggle to understand and modify this rube goldberg levelling blade is actually fun to watch.
Thanks for sharing the real-world issues of this job rather than, as you said, just a 'marketing-video'... also, major props to Christy for her splendid drone-work !!
I am with you on the tenths of a foot over inches. Growing up as a baby engineer in school, the first step was always converting something to metric/base 10 units. Made sure the grade rod I bought for projects was in tenths as well. Love how thougt out your projects are and how thoughtful your commentary is. Definitely speaks to this engineer’s heart and mind
I do appreciate the shared thinking and level of detail. Also, your differentiation of tilt and level and sharing how you mathematically calculated slope is excellent!
When doing this kind of work what’s nice is if it’s not exactly right it’s easy to fix as long as you have enough slope. I always wait until I have rain and let Mother Nature show me where I need to change the grade. Great video guy’s!
The other aspect is that I put this system together myself by working with 3 different partners. So, there has been no integration effort except what I have done. I think it works pretty well.
I love the detail you put into these videos bud. I've learned alot from you and my wife and I will be putting these lessons to use when we buy our own place 😎
I was chuckling to myself when i first started watching this video thinking 'this wasn't done yesterday(Saturday) '. I was a blizzard as i drove to Indy yesterday morning.
Tim, your doing an OK job with that project. Having been in the business for so long though when working with the grade systems that are on the market now , the one thing that they must have is stability. If I were you I would stabilize the grade targets so they are not shaking and wiggle around so much , wider bases and larger gussets at the attachment points on the blade itself is what I would do. You will find that the system will operate more smoothly 👌
Possibly weld on a larger size pipe on the box blade to act as a receiver mount. Drill two holes and weld nuts on that receiver pipe so you can use say 3/8 bolts as jam bolts to Secure your target pipe.
Just to give you some insight , on our machines we use 2 inch heavy wall pipe and weld on 6×6 inch wide 1/4 Inch steel plate with 4 way gussets and bolt it on using 3/8 size grade 5 bolts.
Like that blade. I know what you mean about the wheels lifting. Almost needs a little PLC work on the controls to finesse the lift and tilt. But you're right for the price point it's good. I do drainage work in my business. I use the excavator and a laser to establish the ditch bottom and then I use the tractor to taper the sides and remove the spoils. I like that blade laser setup there though! It's nice.
Tim & Christy: Thank You! I've always thought of your channel as an educational channel. The kind where the viewers learn along with you every step of the way. Channels that show you just the part of making it work are not fun and don't teach a person what might fix their similar problem. Many of your recent videos seem to have lost that part in my opinion, but this video has brought you back in line with what I remember your early videos being like. While I understand your desire to diversify and create content for a diverse audience, I feel you could really benefit from creating a TTWT2 where the second channel perhaps has the auctions, trade shows, and more commercial feel. There are a lot of people that really enjoy that content, but it is not the content I enjoy. I like this the best! Of course, I respect your decision as it is your channel and you can create whatever you like. (Sorry a lot of I in here, hard to really formulate good grammatical sentences on my phone and only a dozen words showing at once.) God Bless!
Really hard to do it all, Eric. Thanks for your solid feedback. We are really struggling to keep up. I know it seems like only a couple of videos per week, but we both work very hard to keep this going.
I appreciate you sharing the details and real-world learning curves of using equipment. To me, that avoids the misperception that everything is easy peasy, and we all can learn from your experiences. It’s been said,“Variety is the spice of life” and I think you and Christy’s work to produce videos that are engaging and enjoyable is a job well done. It’s like waiting to open a gift when videos appear…whenever they are posted. Thanks and blessings to you both!
Nice piece of equipment and I enjoy listening to the explanation of how it works and how you're working with it. 7K is a lot cheaper than 33K but which is better depends on how much you're going to do with it. Thanks for sharing.
I think that laser system is awesome I built myself a pull behind greaser where the blade is controlled with two hydraulic pistons and that system would work really well with that where the wheels always are on the ground I think that system would work really well with my unit. Cool stuff
SOLUTION..TOW point ( height) on tractor Must be RAISED to Level the blade at rest. Weighs off as well. This will make the blade work much better as the nose isn't "diving" when its lowered, its more "level".
Tim i bought me a 4110 in 2002 it took 3 or 4 months to get it . i beleive it was built in geogia .The tractor itself was 12,500 with r4 tires 54 inch mower was 1070,00 49 inch bucket was 2700,00 .I also i got turf tires mounted on rims 1000.00 in four years i had the tractor i never used turf tires. I eventualy got a balist box 400.00 and snow plow 1200.00 .Plus i got a dump trailer and a umbrella that was about 600.00 .It was very much like your 1025r it had a yanmar 3 cyl i beleive it was 20.5 hp / hydro.I had around 18000.00 total in it .Four years later i sold it for 14000.00. with around 290 hrs . I had two problems with it the metal on the seat cracked also had a leak under the rearend john deere took care of the problems .PS i recently looked up to see what the 4110 is going for today it was around 15000.00 with half the attachments.It looks like i could of sold it for more today then i got 16 years ago .I recently commented you about the extention you used with the impact on how you lose torque with an extention .Thanks for the comeback comment Tom
That looks great! This video was an excellent illustration of the detail work that can be accomplished with this type of equipment. Great footage by the way! I am no expert, but I believe the hydraulics need some type of limit switches as to not allow the wheels so go so far "out of bounds" when it's trying to drop the box to the ground. Anyway... Always love the videos and appreciate the effort put into them. 👍👍
Hi Tim, I don’t quite know the depth of adjustability for your raising the wheels too high issue, but I believe a threshold in the electronics or hydraulics for the min and max height would solve the issue. Keep up great work!
I like the detail on the laser system. Have you considered adding a stop on the lift cylinder that won’t allow the gauge wheels to lift maybe an 1” above where they would sit on level ground. That would prevent the wheels from moving all the way up and it may also prevent the blade from cutting too aggressively for the small tractor.
I like a 4 to 1 slope, lay it out with flags off set 2 ft.and run it manual. I run manual till I get real close on the bottom grade allso that will take away the problem of wheels being out of position. You have a neet little set up.
To add a 1" side wall to the swail, lower the blade left laser sensor 1" and drive down the left side and up the right side of the swail. This should set the sail shape for you.
The first thought is it needs a flow control valve to reduce the speed of lift lower. The other thing I can't help but wonder is if the blade would work better if the laser readers were mounted to the wheels instead of the blade. By doing that if it needs to cut more it will only lift the wheels to the laser grade and not above it.
Tim, have you tried using the system in manual mode to prevent excessive lifting of the wheels? What I mean is watching the lights on the right side receiver and adjusting manually in small increments with the valve. I realize that is not how the system is intended but might have some merit during some phases of the slope establishment process. I don't have the controller on my rig so have to adjust manually.
Have you thought about asking the grader attachment manufacturer if adjustable flow restrictors on the hydraulics would make it not so jerky? Put on a snowplow blade to slow the angle from left to right. Nice job Tim.
The hump is really looking good, and the swale should help tremendously with the amount of water you will be moving. It was better to be doing this work in the past than yesterday with the white present we received.
I'm looking at an overview shot @7:10. Maybe I missed the explanation but, just wondering why you have to route the water that way? Can't it be directed down the road ditch? Thanks.
Could Cylinder stops be placed on the lift cylinders so that they are only able to lift an inch or two off the ground? Also, how does the system know when cylinder travel is maxxed out? Does it constantly demand hydraulic flow when it wants more 'height/depth' than the cylinder travel can acheive or does it have some sort of contact switch? I ask because on Deere equipment i've worked on they have a contact switch that sorta resembles one of those door stop springy things that kids like to play with, Installing something like that could limit travel and prevent excessive heat build up in the hydro system from deadheading the hydros when the cylinders are maxed out if you could figure out how to make it talk to the rest of the system. Also, another thought... I have a Summit kit on my 1025R and its great but one of the problems with the momentary contact style control switches is that you get all the flow or none of it. Once again on some of the bigger Deere machines I've worked with you can turn down the flow to certain SCVs to smooth the jerkyness in certain applications. Obviously the Summit kit is not that advanced but I wonder if installing flow controllers on the blade side where you could slow down the cylinders would smooth out some of your issues.. Just pondering. Thanks for making great content!
How do we use the Code for the C5MFG box blade? The website doesn’t allow orders. Also, have any more lessons to learn, I’m putting together the same system and any learning curve videos or additional items we should buy would be awesome! Thanks for any help.
Call them and mention us for the discount. The two laser systems sometimes compete (fight) with each other. It took some practice to learn when to switch the tilt from auto to manual to work with this. Still, a very nice system.
if you will move your mast to the center of the bucket, this will average the the readings between both wheels, not one, also used a power mast, this unit will survey for you
How bad is it for the tiller to till go thru rocks like you did? I’ve done some land clearing and now want to till/flatten it to put in grass. Not sure if box blade forks first then till or just till?
For the issue with the wheels being raised too far, how about a limit switch that keeps the UP solenoid from opening when the wheels are above the bottom of the blade?
Seems like you might want to move the laser system to either Johnny X or the new-to-you cab tractor since that has no loader and won't be used for as many other projects as the loader equipped tractors I'm sure will be.
Just a thought tim, would it help achieve your tilt angles regardless of cutting depth if you made the wheels independent? That way they could have much more travel for lateral adjustment. Or possibly a transverse mounted walking beam type mount for the wheels?
Yes. I have thought a LOT about this. While separate wheel controls would be great for laser control, it would be poor for manual control. One wants to raise the entire blade consistently left to right with a single lever when doing normal box blade work.
@@TractorTimewithTim that’s true. But not impossible to do independently. I’ve run a motor grader a small amount and you have a lever to control each side independently to have greater fine grade control. Definitely more complicated, but something I would seriously consider
That was Funny. 10th. and 100th of an inch. Tim You could have simply have switched over to metric which already works in 10s. Great work, always interesting to see the U.S. hanging on to Imperial measures when they threw the British out hundreds of years ago. Great video. Thanks.
Many things are divided by 3 or 4 or 6. Very easy to divide a foot or yard by those, a meter, not so much. We Americans are intelligent enough to be able to do that and convert measurements to decimal if need be.
@@daddio7249 I am Old so I grew up in Australia with English currency which is based on 12 pennies. Our measurements were also based on 12 inches as Your are now. The decimal system is much easier. 1 meter is easily divisible by every number up to 10 and beyond. 1 meter divided by 3 is 100 centimetres, divided by 4 is 400 centimetres and so on. there is 2.5 centimetres in an inch so yes even a conversion from inches to centimetres is possible. At my age I still work in inches and centimetres. Bilingual when it comes to measuring. I can assure You that if ever the U.S. of A joins the majority of other countries in the World You will find just as easy to work with. The currency in the U.S. already uses the decimal system, it would be easy to convert the measurements over as well. No criticism offered I simply made an observation. Regards. David in Oz.
It sure beats a dozen guys with shovels. Nobody seems to recall that is how almost everything was done not so long ago. It would be a longer process, but you could set the slope numerous times to avoid the overly aggressive digging by the small tractor( do half, then half, or thirds - depth not length). It is a neat tool for someone that does longer driveways/paths on a small scale as well. Maybe you can get some drone footage of how well the swale works after a decent rain, which could also see where any problem spots are without getting your feet wet by walking the edge. I wish I had a drone like that, but can't justify the expense to the "finance committee", wet feet example won't work becase she keeps mentioning my rubber boots under the eave🙄.
A flat site is indeed a vexing challenge; I have a flatter site too. “Best Practice” is to have a 2% minimum slope for positive drainage. Basically trying to grade only 5” drop in 100’ is tough with such a blunt instrument as a tractor. The laser grading blade would help but trying to finesse less than 1/16” per foot is inherently crazy… I’ve connected in with a Permaculture Guild and they are suggesting some alternative and thoughtful considerations. Another way to think about this is to consider absorption and utilizing storm water in lieu of to trying to move water away as efficiently as possible. Absorption strategies would include planting trees to slow and absorb excess storm water. An Alder tree can absorb up to 500 gallons a day for instance. There might be other plants that can thrive in wetter areas. Consider what nature would do on its own. Nature has trees like willows and alders growing in lower and wetter zones. Then the water is “managed”. A strategy I’m considering is digging out a retention pond to collect storm water surges which would then slowly meter out the storm water back into the water table as the soil can handle it. Then the conversation shifts into how a pond can be utilized as a useful contributor to growing foods that like wetter conditions and wildlife habitat. If is pond has water year round, then raising fish becomes possible. When the concept becomes to capture and use storm water beneficially on-site then there are new possibilities to explore.
Not too worried about 1/16” I just want to keep it from puddling deeply. I’m probably within 1/2” in the short run, and very close to perfect over the long run.
Lasers can do very slight slopes. My agriculture laser system with dual slope adjustments went down to 0.01%. We irrigated with flood irrigation and I want to back water up from the low end. I set the laser emitter on 0.03 for the slope and 0.0 for the cross slope on a 40 acre field. That was about 4.5 inches fall over 1280 ft.
I think I mentioned that. These are round figures: $2000 for blade. $2500 per laser system, need two for slope control. $1000 specifically for the 1025r to add the summit hydraulics kit.
Curious if once you set your laser receivers to "grade" on the grade rods of the box blade, could you then install stops above them, basically setting the highest point the receivers could go as final grade, based on the laser location. Then be able to use spacers to equally lower the receivers on each grade rod. Effectively "raising" the laser and lessening the amount you would be trying to cut initially to get to grade. This would likely lessen the amount of time that the rear wheels would raise off the ground and cause the delays in lowering the wheels and raising the box up, without having to put limit switches or other travel limits in. Then once you have graded the highest spots off that needed the most cutting, you could either raise the receivers up by an equal amount on each side (using a spacer between the upper stop and the receiver) or raise them all the way back up to the stops to be able to cut "final" grade. Hopefully that makes sense, you may be already doing something to this effect in the electronics, but it didn't seem like it. I very much like this whole idea though that you are working on. So an details you would like to talk about and show would be interesting to this subscriber (I enjoy all your videos by the way) And yes, if one of your kitties graces us with its presence, that is a great bonus. Have a good one!!
Not available? I just talked with them yesterday….and looked at the website. CANAMEK Gold CAN system is available. Maybe I need to update link? Oh, and discount is 10%, not 5% with code TTWT!
Why not have a wheel into the trench and instead of manually controlling tilt - just move the reciever and have the laser drive that wheel 2" or what not less than the other. Just a thought.
Something to think about before you reseed. have the soil tested. state ag or university can help. I wouldn't be surprised if your calcium is low and your ground is compacted. a soil test will tell you where you stand on nutrients without guessing what you put and you'll definitely notice that with calcium and aeration... no dandelions
I don’t think I get it. Do you have to meet the swale in the field. Do regulations require this. As opposed to a roadside ditch? This seems to a common problem in your area.right?
Yea, our yard is basically the low spot in the whole neighborhood. That is our overall challenge. We have shown and discussed this in several videos over the years.
Could you maybe explain to a lot of people the difference in hydraulic oil and what your tractors are recommended for a lot of people don't really understand they just go by the big old cheap yellow bucket and put it in there can you explain the newer tractors need better fluids thank you
@@TractorTimewithTim Anybody can compete in anything, winning is another story. I would like to see side by side comparison with you next to a 200k machine doing the same job and then have you describe exactly what you mean by compete.
@@TractorTimewithTim I've seen many of your comments to people that voice the slightest bit of criticism and you crumble every time and then end with a condescending remark. My God, how dare anyone speak out against what the self proclaimed tractor "expert" is trying to do. Your defensive nature speaks volumes about your actual abilities.
This is the best, Tim, tractor, box blade, grading, creating a slope! Love it!
This one right here, love the entire broadcast about grading! And then it's quite and peacefuk! I love this one sir!
Love this one as well! Great content and development of the swale! I believe you are the GOAT of the tractor world!
Hey Tim,
Thank you for continuing to offer great content for DIY'ers and small tractor owners. I have a 3 acre overgrown pasture of very wet land that the previous owner cut a 3' ditch into and cows made a huge mess out of, Its bumpy from the continued use and wet in spring, but dries out in summer. My plan is to install drain tile from the wood line to the creek in the center. The slope should accommodate this nicely, rough estimate is 3'-4' of drop over the 200', the north side of the creek might be less slope, but some. Before I can get my buddy's mini-excavator in to dig the ditches for the drain tile I need to tame this "Pasture", at lease get it to a point where we can work. My initial thought is to mow the the 3' tall grasses with a rotary mower, but the more I explore the "Pasture" the more bumps and holes I find, this makes me think of starting with a box blade or straight blade, ignoring the grasses until I have the soil flatter. Does going really slow and high with the brush-hog make sense then working the soil, or visa-versa. I only have a loader and belly mower right now so I need to select my initial purchase carefully, what do you think is the best approach?
Hard to level a pasture with heavy sod.
Box blade might be ok, but you will drag up a lot of weeds and brush.
Brush mower is good idea. Mow it several times this winter if possible.
Then, perhaps a tiller if possible? Or perhaps a disk harrow. Unfortunately, small disk harrows don’t cut well in sod.
Box blade MIGHT work …but it will be frustrating.
Tractor GOAT= Tractor Tim!
Works for me!
Tim, I love this level of detail in your content. You don't do this every video so the balance is right. But watching you struggle to understand and modify this rube goldberg levelling blade is actually fun to watch.
Let’s get started . Thanks Tim
Thats pretty neat!! Good job Mr. Tim
I find the details interesting.
Thanks for sharing the real-world issues of this job rather than, as you said, just a 'marketing-video'... also, major props to Christy for her splendid drone-work !!
So interesting how you develop a Swale. I just didn't know it took all of that for it to happen !
When no slope, it is difficult.
Love the detail and seeing how much you learned and passing that wisdom on to everyone. GREAT Job Tim
I am with you on the tenths of a foot over inches. Growing up as a baby engineer in school, the first step was always converting something to metric/base 10 units. Made sure the grade rod I bought for projects was in tenths as well. Love how thougt out your projects are and how thoughtful your commentary is. Definitely speaks to this engineer’s heart and mind
Nice outfit and great vid explaining it! Go green, love my deere's!
I do appreciate the shared thinking and level of detail. Also, your differentiation of tilt and level and sharing how you mathematically calculated slope is excellent!
Way better than marketing video....
Very cool. I like hearing about your learning curve with this as well as other details.
When doing this kind of work what’s nice is if it’s not exactly right it’s easy to fix as long as you have enough slope. I always wait until I have rain and let Mother Nature show me where I need to change the grade.
Great video guy’s!
I find it neat to see what it takes to fine-tune everything. it brings the cost/value into perspective.
The other aspect is that I put this system together myself by working with 3 different partners. So, there has been no integration effort except what I have done. I think it works pretty well.
@@TractorTimewithTim sure looks it. I could definitely see this used in tighter landscaping jobs or to go in and fine-tune big equipment finish jobs
videos are awesome. i watch all the videos. when the videos come out i watch them rate away.
Thanks for the encouraging words!
Looking nice. Keep up the videos.
Dusty situations like this might be wear your new to you can tractor really shines
I love the detail you put into these videos bud. I've learned alot from you and my wife and I will be putting these lessons to use when we buy our own place 😎
I really like all the details.
Very interested in this system. Details are greatly appreciated! Doing nice work there Mr. Tim. 👍
👍👍 swell job 😀
I was chuckling to myself when i first started watching this video thinking 'this wasn't done yesterday(Saturday) '. I was a blizzard as i drove to Indy yesterday morning.
Big thumbs up for detail
Tim, your doing an OK job with that project. Having been in the business for so long though when working with the grade systems that are on the market now , the one thing that they must have is stability.
If I were you I would stabilize the grade targets so they are not shaking and wiggle around so much , wider bases and larger gussets at the attachment points on the blade itself is what I would do.
You will find that the system will operate more smoothly 👌
Interesting. Thanks. Maybe need stiffer pipe? I’m using u bolts at bottom to attach pipe to blade.
Possibly weld on a larger size pipe on the box blade to act as a receiver mount.
Drill two holes and weld nuts on that receiver pipe so you can use say 3/8 bolts as jam bolts to Secure your target pipe.
Just to give you some insight , on our machines we use 2 inch heavy wall pipe and weld on 6×6 inch wide 1/4 Inch steel plate with 4 way gussets and bolt it on using 3/8 size grade 5 bolts.
Another spot on grade video. Blessings
Ha!
Great video!
You're doing a great job! GREAT video..
Pretty sweet.
I like that round neck Shirt. Must be comfortable
Great video! I agree with you on needing a bigger tractor to pull it.
Like that blade. I know what you mean about the wheels lifting. Almost needs a little PLC work on the controls to finesse the lift and tilt. But you're right for the price point it's good.
I do drainage work in my business. I use the excavator and a laser to establish the ditch bottom and then I use the tractor to taper the sides and remove the spoils. I like that blade laser setup there though! It's nice.
Tim & Christy: Thank You! I've always thought of your channel as an educational channel. The kind where the viewers learn along with you every step of the way. Channels that show you just the part of making it work are not fun and don't teach a person what might fix their similar problem. Many of your recent videos seem to have lost that part in my opinion, but this video has brought you back in line with what I remember your early videos being like. While I understand your desire to diversify and create content for a diverse audience, I feel you could really benefit from creating a TTWT2 where the second channel perhaps has the auctions, trade shows, and more commercial feel. There are a lot of people that really enjoy that content, but it is not the content I enjoy. I like this the best! Of course, I respect your decision as it is your channel and you can create whatever you like. (Sorry a lot of I in here, hard to really formulate good grammatical sentences on my phone and only a dozen words showing at once.) God Bless!
Really hard to do it all, Eric.
Thanks for your solid feedback.
We are really struggling to keep up. I know it seems like only a couple of videos per week, but we both work very hard to keep this going.
I appreciate you sharing the details and real-world learning curves of using equipment. To me, that avoids the misperception that everything is easy peasy, and we all can learn from your experiences. It’s been said,“Variety is the spice of life” and I think you and Christy’s work to produce videos that are engaging and enjoyable is a job well done. It’s like waiting to open a gift when videos appear…whenever they are posted. Thanks and blessings to you both!
Have you tried with JohnnyX? The additional hydraulic flow should increase the speed on the cylinders
Nice piece of equipment and I enjoy listening to the explanation of how it works and how you're working with it. 7K is a lot cheaper than 33K but which is better depends on how much you're going to do with it. Thanks for sharing.
Learning curve on this contraption seems pretty big but the results appear to be worth it.
I think that laser system is awesome I built myself a pull behind greaser where the blade is controlled with two hydraulic pistons and that system would work really well with that where the wheels always are on the ground I think that system would work really well with my unit. Cool stuff
SOLUTION..TOW point ( height) on tractor Must be RAISED to Level the blade at rest. Weighs off as well. This will make the blade work much better as the nose isn't "diving" when its lowered, its more "level".
Tim i bought me a 4110 in 2002 it took 3 or 4 months to get it . i beleive it was built in geogia .The tractor itself was 12,500 with r4 tires 54 inch mower was 1070,00 49 inch bucket was 2700,00 .I also i got turf tires mounted on rims 1000.00 in four years i had the tractor i never used turf tires. I eventualy got a balist box 400.00 and snow plow 1200.00 .Plus i got a dump trailer and a umbrella that was about 600.00 .It was very much like your 1025r it had a yanmar 3 cyl i beleive it was 20.5 hp / hydro.I had around 18000.00 total in it .Four years later i sold it for 14000.00. with around 290 hrs . I had two problems with it the metal on the seat cracked also had a leak under the rearend john deere took care of the problems .PS i recently looked up to see what the 4110 is going for today it was around 15000.00 with half the attachments.It looks like i could of sold it for more today then i got 16 years ago .I recently commented you about the extention you used with the impact on how you lose torque with an extention .Thanks for the comeback comment Tom
Not enough flat ground at either of my homesteads to do anything like this. However, I enjoy learning the ups and downs right along with you 😂!
That looks great! This video was an excellent illustration of the detail work that can be accomplished with this type of equipment. Great footage by the way! I am no expert, but I believe the hydraulics need some type of limit switches as to not allow the wheels so go so far "out of bounds" when it's trying to drop the box to the ground. Anyway... Always love the videos and appreciate the effort put into them. 👍👍
Yea. That is the next step. I’ll use cylinder stops to mechanically restrict that movement.
No rain here, either. But we got 3" of snow Sat. night.
This was quite awhile ago….we are quite behind on videos.
Awesome.
Hi Tim, I don’t quite know the depth of adjustability for your raising the wheels too high issue, but I believe a threshold in the electronics or hydraulics for the min and max height would solve the issue. Keep up great work!
I like the detail on the laser system.
Have you considered adding a stop on the lift cylinder that won’t allow the gauge wheels to lift maybe an 1” above where they would sit on level ground. That would prevent the wheels from moving all the way up and it may also prevent the blade from cutting too aggressively for the small tractor.
Yep. That is the next thing to try. I have the stops…just need to put them on.
I like a 4 to 1 slope, lay it out with flags off set 2 ft.and run it manual. I run manual till I get real close on the bottom grade allso that will take away the problem of wheels being out of position. You have a neet little set up.
All great unless you don’t have 4:12 available
To add a 1" side wall to the swail, lower the blade left laser sensor 1" and drive down the left side and up the right side of the swail. This should set the sail shape for you.
Hi Tim, do me a big favor please don’t ever change that wonderful little jingle at the beginning and end of your videos. It’s pretty awesome.
what do you think of the older b series Kubota tractors i bought a b1750 with loader and really like it seems to be a very beefy tractor
Tim Tim using “10ths of foot”😂 that’s why the rest of the world use the metric system 😂😂😂 love your vids
Yep.
The first thought is it needs a flow control valve to reduce the speed of lift lower. The other thing I can't help but wonder is if the blade would work better if the laser readers were mounted to the wheels instead of the blade. By doing that if it needs to cut more it will only lift the wheels to the laser grade and not above it.
Tim, have you tried using the system in manual mode to prevent excessive lifting of the wheels? What I mean is watching the lights on the right side receiver and adjusting manually in small increments with the valve. I realize that is not how the system is intended but might have some merit during some phases of the slope establishment process. I don't have the controller on my rig so have to adjust manually.
Oh yea, I switch back and forth between manual and auto often. You can see that in the video if you look closely.
Have you thought about asking the grader attachment manufacturer if adjustable flow restrictors on the hydraulics would make it not so jerky? Put on a snowplow blade to slow the angle from left to right. Nice job Tim.
I have flow control valves to test this theory. Doesn’t really help much. We already have such low flow.
The hump is really looking good, and the swale should help tremendously with the amount of water you will be moving. It was better to be doing this work in the past than yesterday with the white present we received.
Yea, several more ‘in the past’ episodes coming. We got behind!
It looks like your getting it. You just have to go slow ,and steady.
I'm looking at an overview shot @7:10. Maybe I missed the explanation but, just wondering why you have to route the water that way? Can't it be directed down the road ditch? Thanks.
Road ditch is higher than our yard. We are the place where the road ditch drains.
can you put limit blocks on the down function so the wheels don't go up all the way? probably just a minor issue
Yes, that is next step. I have the blocks, just haven’t tried them yet.
Looking good Tim. I sent you an email the other day.
I saw it. Sorry. Very busy.
@@TractorTimewithTim No problem. It gets delivered Tuesday.
Could Cylinder stops be placed on the lift cylinders so that they are only able to lift an inch or two off the ground? Also, how does the system know when cylinder travel is maxxed out? Does it constantly demand hydraulic flow when it wants more 'height/depth' than the cylinder travel can acheive or does it have some sort of contact switch? I ask because on Deere equipment i've worked on they have a contact switch that sorta resembles one of those door stop springy things that kids like to play with, Installing something like that could limit travel and prevent excessive heat build up in the hydro system from deadheading the hydros when the cylinders are maxed out if you could figure out how to make it talk to the rest of the system.
Also, another thought... I have a Summit kit on my 1025R and its great but one of the problems with the momentary contact style control switches is that you get all the flow or none of it. Once again on some of the bigger Deere machines I've worked with you can turn down the flow to certain SCVs to smooth the jerkyness in certain applications. Obviously the Summit kit is not that advanced but I wonder if installing flow controllers on the blade side where you could slow down the cylinders would smooth out some of your issues.. Just pondering.
Thanks for making great content!
Please give us an update on how it works out when it rains.
Oh yea. Several more episodes coming.
How do we use the Code for the C5MFG box blade? The website doesn’t allow orders.
Also, have any more lessons to learn, I’m putting together the same system and any learning curve videos or additional items we should buy would be awesome!
Thanks for any help.
Call them and mention us for the discount.
The two laser systems sometimes compete (fight) with each other. It took some practice to learn when to switch the tilt from auto to manual to work with this.
Still, a very nice system.
if you will move your mast to the center of the bucket, this will average the the readings between both wheels, not one, also used a power mast, this unit will survey for you
Just curious, Are you rerouting the water into the field. Or to the airwell?
Field.
Tim, will you use a roller to compact that following the grading, or just grass seed it? Also, what brand of rototiller were you using?
Tufline tiller.
Stay tuned for more episodes before and during seeding.
How bad is it for the tiller to till go thru rocks like you did? I’ve done some land clearing and now want to till/flatten it to put in grass. Not sure if box blade forks first then till or just till?
Not good on the tiller. Can break tines. Of course the tines are replaceable.
For the issue with the wheels being raised too far, how about a limit switch that keeps the UP solenoid from opening when the wheels are above the bottom of the blade?
Seems like you might want to move the laser system to either Johnny X or the new-to-you cab tractor since that has no loader and won't be used for as many other projects as the loader equipped tractors I'm sure will be.
👍 Thought about using hydraulic blocks to reduce the stroke of the lift??
Yep. Next step. Have the blocks.
Well, a bit of seeding to do Tim, but I think it will look great by next year.
Stay tuned. More to be done before seeding.
In John Deere green, on a hot summer night
He wrote "Billy Bob loves Charlene" in letters three foot high
Just a thought tim, would it help achieve your tilt angles regardless of cutting depth if you made the wheels independent? That way they could have much more travel for lateral adjustment. Or possibly a transverse mounted walking beam type mount for the wheels?
Yes. I have thought a LOT about this.
While separate wheel controls would be great for laser control, it would be poor for manual control.
One wants to raise the entire blade consistently left to right with a single lever when doing normal box blade work.
@@TractorTimewithTim that’s true. But not impossible to do independently. I’ve run a motor grader a small amount and you have a lever to control each side independently to have greater fine grade control. Definitely more complicated, but something I would seriously consider
That was Funny. 10th. and 100th of an inch. Tim You could have simply have switched over to metric which already works in 10s.
Great work, always interesting to see the U.S. hanging on to Imperial measures when they threw the British out hundreds of years ago.
Great video.
Thanks.
Yep. Would be good to switch to metric system.
Many things are divided by 3 or 4 or 6. Very easy to divide a foot or yard by those, a meter, not so much. We Americans are intelligent enough to be able to do that and convert measurements to decimal if need be.
@@daddio7249 I am Old so I grew up in Australia with English currency which is based on 12 pennies. Our measurements were also based on 12 inches as Your are now. The decimal system is much easier.
1 meter is easily divisible by every number up to 10 and beyond. 1 meter divided by 3 is 100 centimetres, divided by 4 is 400 centimetres and so on. there is 2.5 centimetres in an inch so yes even a conversion from inches to centimetres is possible.
At my age I still work in inches and centimetres. Bilingual when it comes to measuring.
I can assure You that if ever the U.S. of A joins the majority of other countries in the World You will find just as easy to work with.
The currency in the U.S. already uses the decimal system, it would be easy to convert the measurements over as well.
No criticism offered I simply made an observation.
Regards.
David in Oz.
It sure beats a dozen guys with shovels. Nobody seems to recall that is how almost everything was done not so long ago.
It would be a longer process, but you could set the slope numerous times to avoid the overly aggressive digging by the small tractor( do half, then half, or thirds - depth not length).
It is a neat tool for someone that does longer driveways/paths on a small scale as well.
Maybe you can get some drone footage of how well the swale works after a decent rain, which could also see where any problem spots are without getting your feet wet by walking the edge. I wish I had a drone like that, but can't justify the expense to the "finance committee", wet feet example won't work becase she keeps mentioning my rubber boots under the eave🙄.
A flat site is indeed a vexing challenge; I have a flatter site too. “Best Practice” is to have a 2% minimum slope for positive drainage. Basically trying to grade only 5” drop in 100’ is tough with such a blunt instrument as a tractor. The laser grading blade would help but trying to finesse less than 1/16” per foot is inherently crazy…
I’ve connected in with a Permaculture Guild and they are suggesting some alternative and thoughtful considerations. Another way to think about this is to consider absorption and utilizing storm water in lieu of to trying to move water away as efficiently as possible. Absorption strategies would include planting trees to slow and absorb excess storm water. An Alder tree can absorb up to 500 gallons a day for instance. There might be other plants that can thrive in wetter areas. Consider what nature would do on its own. Nature has trees like willows and alders growing in lower and wetter zones. Then the water is “managed”.
A strategy I’m considering is digging out a retention pond to collect storm water surges which would then slowly meter out the storm water back into the water table as the soil can handle it. Then the conversation shifts into how a pond can be utilized as a useful contributor to growing foods that like wetter conditions and wildlife habitat. If is pond has water year round, then raising fish becomes possible. When the concept becomes to capture and use storm water beneficially on-site then there are new possibilities to explore.
Not too worried about 1/16” I just want to keep it from puddling deeply.
I’m probably within 1/2” in the short run, and very close to perfect over the long run.
Lasers can do very slight slopes. My agriculture laser system with dual slope adjustments went down to 0.01%. We irrigated with flood irrigation and I want to back water up from the low end. I set the laser emitter on 0.03 for the slope and 0.0 for the cross slope on a 40 acre field. That was about 4.5 inches fall over 1280 ft.
You should have used Johnny X to make auto steering path with the gps!
Curious. On what you are seeding all of this with to avoid erosion?
Stay tuned :-)
@@TractorTimewithTim lol sounds like a teaser response. Lol
How much was complete cost of the blade and leveling system?
I think I mentioned that. These are round figures: $2000 for blade. $2500 per laser system, need two for slope control. $1000 specifically for the 1025r to add the summit hydraulics kit.
@@TractorTimewithTim I heard you mention 20,000 or something and then mention something along the lines of 6 or 7,000 so was clarifying what was what
Curious if once you set your laser receivers to "grade" on the grade rods of the box blade, could you then install stops above them, basically setting the highest point the receivers could go as final grade, based on the laser location. Then be able to use spacers to equally lower the receivers on each grade rod. Effectively "raising" the laser and lessening the amount you would be trying to cut initially to get to grade. This would likely lessen the amount of time that the rear wheels would raise off the ground and cause the delays in lowering the wheels and raising the box up, without having to put limit switches or other travel limits in. Then once you have graded the highest spots off that needed the most cutting, you could either raise the receivers up by an equal amount on each side (using a spacer between the upper stop and the receiver) or raise them all the way back up to the stops to be able to cut "final" grade.
Hopefully that makes sense, you may be already doing something to this effect in the electronics, but it didn't seem like it. I very much like this whole idea though that you are working on. So an details you would like to talk about and show would be interesting to this subscriber (I enjoy all your videos by the way) And yes, if one of your kitties graces us with its presence, that is a great bonus. Have a good one!!
Could probably do that, but it would not be efficient. …at least in my opinion.
@@TractorTimewithTim 👍
My husband told me I had to quit watching your videos! LOL no new attachments he said
Hmm! That is backwards to the comments we usually see!
Thanks for watching!
Be nice to have draft control on that blade to slow it down on lowering and lifting. Neat attachment but $$$$.
I see the receiver system is not available now, any other company have a kit like this?
Not available? I just talked with them yesterday….and looked at the website.
CANAMEK Gold CAN system is available.
Maybe I need to update link?
Oh, and discount is 10%, not 5% with code TTWT!
Ok thank you, I looked at link and said unavailable I beleive
There's actually no link on this video
All you need is a real operator an a basic landscape box if it’s a real tractor it will grade itself with just a operator setting lecers
Why not have a wheel into the trench and instead of manually controlling tilt - just move the reciever and have the laser drive that wheel 2" or what not less than the other. Just a thought.
How many tractors do you own?
Not sure. 9?
@@TractorTimewithTim That is amazing!
Something to think about before you reseed.
have the soil tested. state ag or university can help. I wouldn't be surprised if your calcium is low and your ground is compacted. a soil test will tell you where you stand on nutrients without guessing what you put and you'll definitely notice that with calcium and aeration... no dandelions
seed clover....😂
First. Nice job
I don’t think I get it. Do you have to meet the swale in the field. Do regulations require this. As opposed to a roadside ditch? This seems to a common problem in your area.right?
Water won’t run uphill :-)
@@TractorTimewithTim oh, I’m an electrician. Most of my electrons go where you tell them to go. Thanks
Yea, our yard is basically the low spot in the whole neighborhood. That is our overall challenge.
We have shown and discussed this in several videos over the years.
Could you maybe explain to a lot of people the difference in hydraulic oil and what your tractors are recommended for a lot of people don't really understand they just go by the big old cheap yellow bucket and put it in there can you explain the newer tractors need better fluids thank you
I just buy the Deere low vis.
As an engineer, I want all the technical data. :)
Looks like a good idea that doesn't really work due to the small size of the tractor.
Over-simplified analysis. It works well. Just takes practice. As I said, competes with $200k systems.
@@TractorTimewithTim Anybody can compete in anything, winning is another story. I would like to see side by side comparison with you next to a 200k machine doing the same job and then have you describe exactly what you mean by compete.
Having a bad day, Pete? Good grief.
@@TractorTimewithTim I've seen many of your comments to people that voice the slightest bit of criticism and you crumble every time and then end with a condescending remark. My God, how dare anyone speak out against what the self proclaimed tractor "expert" is trying to do. Your defensive nature speaks volumes about your actual abilities.
Yes. I am less than perfect.
Definitely.
why don't you add the surface water to your pond?? I think that would help with keeping weeds down in the pond an keep the algee down
Discussed at the end.
it would stop a lot of erosion if you just put in drain pipe
Tim ....Dirt Perfect could have helped you knock this out in a day or two...
Of course.
Now bring on the rain.
Oh, not yet! Gotta get it seeded!
@@TractorTimewithTim lol minor details
And there is another reason to use metric. No need to convert from inches to feet to yards to miles. lol
Exactly! Sign me up.