I think it's pretty obvious that we're serious about ballast weight. Regardless what you think about the video, I'm hoping you take tractor safety seriously! Read your manual, hopefully you'll find all the information you need in there to properly ballast your tractor. RimGuard in the tires, wheel weights, a ballast box, suitcase weights. You'd be surprised how much you need to safely and effectively use your tractor. If there's something we can help you with, then please check out our website at www.goodworkstractors.com Be safe out there!
I bought an old Kawasaki Mule a few years ago, clapped out POS but one weird thing was the tires were chalk full of rubber/silicone maybe? They didn’t have any air, just solidified rubber. It made the wheels incredibly heavy. I don’t know the kind of factory that owned the Mule before I did but I suspect they had access to a plethora of injectable silicone/rubber. Took days to cut the tires off with that stuff. My garbage can had to weigh 400lb easily.
I can just see Todd filling the tires of his Winnebago (I can't remember his name for it) with different brands of fluid and heading off into the fields with the exhaust flare sticking out the side.
It was the dealer that made this claim. Not Mike Morgan. Mike was just reiterating what the dealer told him. He made that quite clear in the video. The dealer was probably talking about rubber valve cores.
Just to clarify, even though I’m in the thumbnail and video I am not sponsored by Rim Guard even though the video is sponsored by Rim Guard….. hey wait a minute? Am I now inadvertently sponsored by rim guard?
Haha, the man himself. Everybody, I present to you OWTM. For endless entertainment and superior machine operating skills, I suggest you check them out :) th-cam.com/users/OutdoorsWithTheMorgans
I subscribe to ya both and feel both offer honest opinions and don’t over sell. That’s obvious by Mike saying what he did about not having personal experience with rimguard. Thanks to you both for full disclosure…I think a good evaluation from users/viewers would clear it up. Down south I mixed h2O with antifreeze without issue…I will say that when humid my rims and tires drip water and tractor stays inside shop. By the way Mike, I’m ready to order some fire starter and want to see the new bagging machine in action.
Mike was pretty clear this was his tire shops opinion and not his own. To make him the centrepiece of your video proves only one thing - you’re using his name to get more views. This video should’ve been sponsored by Mike Morgan. On a side note. My tire shop said the same. They switched back to calcium.
I too follow Mike's channel and as you said he specifically said in his video that this was just what he was told by his tire shop and not necessarily fact. Thanks for running this down and getting the correct information and sharing it on your channel.
When I purchased my tractor, the very first thing that I purchased was RIMGAURD tire ballast. When I contacted my dealer he specifically stated that first and foremost that I needed to have the value stems replaced with the compatible ones. This is great information and something that I am sure will continue to stir the pot in the ballast world. The main thing in any situation in my opinion is Research. Always do your research and when you do that you become educated in the areas that you were not familiar with. Great video, great information.
Agreed, we showed an old clip from our channel discussing it, but sometimes these topics deserve a refresh. Thousands of new tractor owners coming into the fold every year. Thanks for watching!
Seems to me that ALL tractor manufacturers should use all metal valve stems since adding liquid ballast at some point is a fairly common practice. Just makes sense to me. Awesome job Courtney in running down the root cause of the leak issue. you would make a fine engineer!
When I got my 1025r dealer had liquid ballast of some kind installed. I just went out and checked…rubber valve stems. I will be contacting the dealer next week to get the proper valve stems. Thank you for the clarification
Another benefit of the rim guard is that if you get a nail puncture, the air won’t immediately leak out as the rim guard acts as a self sealing liquid. I got a nail puncture in the rear tire in between the tread on my L4060. I noticed a dark syrup looking goo slowly forming on the tire. I didn’t make the connection to what it was immediately. I thought I ran over a piece of melted candy. 🤷♂️. The next day I tried to clean it off with a paper towel and only then noticed that it was a puncture. Even after wiping the quarter sized ball of goo off the air was barely even leaking out and the puncture was facing up above the liquid line. Plugged the hole with a standard plug kit. Haven’t had a problem since and the air pressure was still the same. It was just pushing the beet juice residue out in very small amounts. So I definitely recommend using it.
Not sure what kind of liquid ballast I have (bought the tractor used) but it is blue but not antifreeze. My 1025R had rubber valve stems and the metal core popped out and leaked liquid ballast on my concrete floor. The issue was like posted, the glue let loose and therefore so did the liquid. I changed to metal valve stems and no problem. I would certainly recommend metal valve stems with liquid ballast. You don't want a mess like I had.
Kind of shows how dealers can pass on low-quality information based on something "they heard", and how it becomes a game of Telephone as the message gets distorted. I had read about this issue on the green tractor forum, so before I got my 3039R rear tires filled with RimGuard I checked with my dealer, who said it came equipped with the required metal valves. (My dealer also uses RimGuard.) Also double-checked with the RimGuard dealer's employees who came to the house to fill the tires. (Edited): And as you showed, the BioBallast SDS only says "Proprietary Organic Based Components" (page 1), and below that table it says "The exact concentration is being withheld as a trade secret." I would never bash a product I have no personal experience with, but that approach isn't exactly what one might call "confidence inspiring".
Sounds like you had done your research ahead of time. It shouldn't be tough to find clear answers from a manufacturer. On occasion we'll get a question about a product and we don't have the answer on the website. Whenever that happens, we add the info to the website to give customers as much info as possible about what we sell.
I’ll share a couple experiences I’ve had with a kubota bx1500 and a garden tractor. My first sub compact came with the house when we bought it, had rimguard in the rear, both rubber valve stems failed where the rubber and he brass come together. Almost like years of shock pulses worked the seam between the rubber and brass vulcanization apart over time. I could literally pull the brass right out of the rubber… replaced both stems with out removing the rim guard (what a nightmare process btw) and was good to go. Then last year had my father in-laws garden tractor have the exact same thing happen. Since I can’t confirm what the rating of the valve stems were, I can only say they both failed the same way by separation, not by corrosion… and neither were new. So basically confirming your liquid incompatibility with generic air type rated valve stems… my 1025r also running rimguard with zero issues since new in 2014
100% correct. I have B series Kubota with Rim Guard. I like the product but it did dissolve the glue holding the metal valve in the rubber valve stem housing. Replaced them wirh bolt in all metal valves 2 years ago with no problems. This took me about 20 minutes to fix.
Thanks for a good video Courtney! I read a lot of comments on YT channels, fb posts, sales adds, etc. trying to gather information. One thing I am always amazed with is some peoples complete lack of reading (or listening) comprehension. Mike never said a negative word about RimGuard but rather simply stated that he was only passing a long what he was told and even followed up by saying he didn't know. You said this very same thing regarding Mike's video in your opening comments. To be fair to you there are a lot of people that would wrongly interpret Mike's comment as meaning RimGuard has a corrosion problem. I think your video could be described as a factual extension of Mike's video. Thank you for the specific information. And people....a videos name is like a newspapers headline; it's designed to capture attention and to get people to read the article - period. Many video names do NOT accurately describe the videos content.
Let me add a technical detail. Having worked in the auto industry (GM) for 40 years, with considerable experience with tires: tire design, tire testing, tire traction, and tire durability. Tires are designed as air chambers which support axle loads. Load rating/capacity is a function of air volume. When you take away much of that air volume with an incompressible fluid, the hydraulic shock can overload components not originally designed for the dynamic overpressure from impacts, heavy loads, curb strikes, potholes, etc. In this case the valve stems are probably the 'fuse' in the line of succession. Bent or failed rims also result if you have a 12 or 16 ply tire holding down the fort, so to speak.
Thanks for the info Bill. I know that ballast installers recommend leaving 20-25% space for air to adjust pressure for ride, load, etc. Perhaps it's related to the valve stems as well?
We had calcium chloride for decades. Never had an issue. We always kept an eye on the valve stems. Every once in a while we had to replace valve stem core if it started to seep. Never had a rim get rusty or rust out. Tubes only not tubeless.
Im not a fan of filling my tires with anything but air. My opinion and reasoning for my personal situation is that my 2320 is occasionally used with a 62” mower deck. I like the fact of keeping the tractor relatively light. So when i use the mower deck i remove the ballast box. Thus less sinking into soft spots. But i also think the weight distributed differently in comparison to a ballast box or filled tires. Again, my experience i love my setup utilizing the ballast box over tire weight. But im sure weighted tires will benefit certain conditions that i just don’t come in contact with. Good video once again brother.
Living for a few years in the great plains/midwest, I did learn about one way "beet juice can corrode a rim and a valve stem/valve core". A few states mix beet juice in with their liquid chloride road-deicing brine and a few "less than intelligent" folks did install some of that in tires as ballast, because they had a bunch of it, and it was cheap... (looking at you, public works...) Salt water, mixed with beet juice. Of course it failed miserably, but the urban legend of "corrosive beet juice" ran wild across parts of Missouri and Kansas for a time....the ironic part is the beet juice is mixed with the deicing brine as a corrosion inhibitor, to minimize some of the impact the chlorides have on the steel components of roadways.
I did my research & you are right. You clarified it correctly. Mike's dealer stating that "their" ballast is heavier than RimGuard is a local defending his choice to sell something that may be cheaper for him to buy & thus more profit. Not all dealers are "truthful". If your dealer says that: 1) Get a gallon of RimGuard. 2) Make him bring a gallon of his product. 3) Weigh them side by side on the same scale. End of controversy. If he loses, you get free RimGuard & he pays. (He will not agree to this because he knows he's been caught.)
About a month ago, I spent $700 replacing the calcium in my Ford 6610-S. With that, both inner tubes were also replaced. One day I went to use my 6610 and there it sat with a flat tire. The valve stem was laying on the floor by the tire. So I carefully loaded the tractor on my dozer trailer and off to the tire shop I went. When I got there I told them to fix both tires. They did the flat one first, then the one that was holding pressure. I watched the entire process. When they started to work on the "good" tire, all they did was reach over and touch its valve stem and it broke off in their hand. They put the new product in. based on the old windshield washer fluid. I don't remember the name of it. I know this, calcium will never be used in one of my tires again. I did have beet juice in my John Deere 2010, which I sold last fall. My tire dealer used to use it, but they had too many tire problems with it and they quit using it. Lee
On my big Fords I would change out the valve stems every couple of years. I know there was a different valve stem to be used with any liquid ballast vs just air. On the farm I used Calcium Cloride as long as it didn't get through the tube or leaked out the valve it was fine.
Great video Courtney! Thanks for clearing up the heresay scuttlebutt! When Mike stated that, I was thinking that maybe "corrosion" was simply misconstrued as product that was gumming up inside the valve stem. I don't know if Rim Guard leaves a sticky residue when it dries or not. Maybe it never dries up when exposed to the atmosphere, I don't know. At this point, I don't really care.
I had first hear of Rim guard from TTWT TH-cam channel several years ago then I searched the Rim Guard website for my nearest dealer. Turns out my nearest dealer was not really actively selling it anymore and had switched to Bio Guard as well. I 100% believe your correct Bio guard is a little lighter weight per gallon, about a pound sounds about right. The local ag tire shop Rim guard had sent me to, had indicated that the Rim guard product was more difficult to work with, I believe that the beet juice is thicker and stickier then Bio guard, that was how they explained it to me. That because of those things, they had found Rim guard was harder to pump, harder on their equipment, that it took longer to fill and in general was simply more difficult to work with, so they switch back to Bio guard for those reasons.
Nice job Courtney on laying out the facts. Now I understand why my local tire dealer installed metal valve stems before filling with beet juice. Thanks again for taking the time to clear this topic up.
Take it for what it’s worth, of the hundred or so tires on our farm, the only valve stems I have issues with are with rim guard. No issues with calcium chloride.
That's good info on the stems. I feel like I remember that coming up when Tim @tractor time with Tim got Rim Guard installed on video. I've had Rim Guard installed on 2 tractors one of which was about 19 years ago. Never had an issue or even a puncture with them in that time.
I heard what Mike said, but I read between the lines and wondered if the Bio Ballast people came into the tire shop with a better deal for the dealer, so the dealer switched over. That sounds like a more plausible scenario than the corrosion story. As a dealer, wouldn't you want to have solid evidence that Bio Ballast is definitely non-corrosive or less corrosive before switching? Otherwise, you're switching from a fill that "they" say may be corrosive to a fill that has unknown or TBD corrosion results. Doesn't make sense. When things don't add up, you can typically trace it back to financial motives.
Another issue I see with the Air Only valve stems is the sealing between the rim and the valve stem. It is an interference fit versus a compression seal with the Air/Liquid valve stems.
I bought a used tractor (my first tractor) a while back for snowblowing on the shore of Lake Superior. I didn't even know that the tires were ballasted. They were ballasted with Rimguard and had rubber valves. I went to check the tire pressure and instead of the valve cap coming off the whole valve came out because the glue failed. That was interesting and messy. Fortunately I was able to stick the valve back together and the pressure never blew the valve apart. A couple years later and I had a small leak in the sidewall which would ooze Rimguard with each rotation. Rimguard wasn't available from the tire shop I used to replace the tires so now I have Bio-ballast, which was the product that they used, and metal valve stems. This happened when the tractor was about 9-11 years old
I recently inquired about rimguard with my local ag tire dealer. Said he used to deal with it but the negative end was its apparently messier than other liquid ballest when it comes to changing the tire and his employees didn't want to mess with it. He deals with corn byproduct now but sold me on foam as it's comparable in weight and about $100 cheaper than liquid ballest plus never have to worry about getting a flat. Ultimately just like with which make of tractor you go with it comes down to who's your closes dealer and the service they provide. For me my local dealer is 20 minutes away and provides quick service whereas the nearest rimguard dealer is over an hr away. If my dealer still dealt with rimguard then I'd probably have gone with that just based on your promotion of it. As always great video and keep them coming.
@Good Works Tractors fill and done deal. They use it alot on wheel skidloaders as sometimes making those tight turns can cause a tire to break its seal on the rim even with liquid ballest. If I understand correctly the foam becomes solid but yet still has a bit of give do not like riding with steel wheels.
I went through something similar myself. Tried to get rimguard, but the dealer was now using bioballast. They said it was easier to deal with in terms of spills or leaks.
I'll tell you what I think, the cheap manufacture of valve stems is the issue I've seen supposedly good commercial valve stems and they were junk, especially the rubber or other material, plastic type stuff, on a cheap core body. In the old days stuff like this made in the USA but now is sourced out of China with 50 different manufacturers.
So the way I understand it if you use the rimguard you have to make sure your valve stems are compatible for air/water or chemical resistant which if it doesn't have the right valve stems it would be an added expense to put rimguard or bio-ballast as the valve stems would have to be replaced which means dismounting the tire halfway. I like the idea of ballast in your tires but if you get a major puncture if you don't notice it real quick when out in the field you'll lose your ballast if you don't have a plug kit to stop it. I carry string plugs with me if I'm doing a job. As to get a tire repair shop to come out and fix it costs alot of money. I've plugged tires many times, call me tight!
Yeah, any liquid ballast, not just RimGuard. You need valve stems that are compatible with air AND liquid. That's the key. Did you miss the MultiSeal video? You can add the 1500 version to liquid ballast and it stops up to 1/2" punctures! Plus, save 5% with code GWT at multiseal.us th-cam.com/video/jttGx75xBTo/w-d-xo.html
The thing about the valve stems is important for anyone that has liquid ballast. I put RV antifreeze into my lawn tractor tires, and they have rubber valve stems, so I may have trouble in the future but two years so far so good. I have some steep hills in my yard and changing to an ag tread tire and adding the ballast has helped tremendously.
I called local tire companies and found 1 place who said "I have some Rimguard left from someone else that HAD to have it and I'll sell you that, but we're not servicing the tire if it pops" He said, that was because the stuff is revoltingly-stinky and a total mess to deal with when you get a tire pop because it's kind of a sludge/slurpee consistency. Called another place that does liquid ballast for local companies and they said the same and they exclusively use water/mag and Multiseal 1500 mix.
Always make sure the valve stems are compatible. The complications with metal stems are they MAY eventually corrode with the de-icing salt applications. Same thing with metal caps. Another factor MIGHT be the age of the tire at time of purchase. They may be sold as new because they've never been used and they may look good but conceivably they could be a couple of years old or older...
I suspect that instances of the use of bead sealant (a form of adhesive, actually) MAY also deteriorate over time, with liquid ballast soaking into it over years. ANY competitive ballast product will go out of its way to blast another competitor's product, simply by using an isolated instance (not identifying the actual REASON, but citing the competitive product as the cause). RimGuard has been in use worldwide for decades, and failures due to its product would not keep it as the 1st choice in tractor tires, IF it had problems with it.
We always install a tube when using liquid ballast of any kind. Relatively cheap insurance. Calcium Chloride works fine, is heavy, and cheap. Yes, leaks need to be repaired quickly to prevent corrosion at the rim, but most leaks are in the exposed area so you would know quickly.
Now I'm curious about how that tire puncture fluid that you had a video on might affect an air-only valve stem. Could it cause valve stem delamination because it's a fluid? Or would it seal the valve stem because, well, that's what it does.
That's a good question! I'll have to ask MultiSeal about that. I can see it doing either of those things, haha! I do believe they've been out for decades as well, so you'd think they'd have figured it out already if it was a problem at one point.
Thank for taking the time to point this out. As I watch Mike as well but he did say take it for what it worth. Love Your channel keep up the great work. By the way could you do a video on how to add the liquid tire plug to your tires?
im in Ohio north of columbus and most tire guys wont even work on tires that have rim guard in them , they say it smells like death when they change it and it is a mess to work with ,. me my self use windshield washer fluid in my Tractor,. no corrosion and no issues at the tire shops .
I stopped using RimGuard because it clogged up the valve stems. Glued the valve stem cap. The valve then failed causing a huge mess. My John Deere dealer switched to a soybean oil product. Your results may vary.
Sounds like a conversation you should have had with Mike privately, Giving him the opportunity if he felt he was incorrect about the ballast issue, then he could have addressed it to his followers.
I've got windshield washer in my 1723, for 3 years, and no issues. Time wise, I figure I'll wear them out or damage the tires before the valve stem gives me problems. I would change the tires myself and then change the valve stem and put windshield washer fluid back in
Instead of water in the tires ! I added 1000 pounds on my box blade 😅 and it works even better now ! Cause it won’t float or bounce over hard surfaces and when I take it off and pull my brush cutter ! That’s when you don’t want any additional weight 😅
I formerly worked in subsea electrical connectors. The adhesion promoter, aka primer, used between polymers and metal shells and inserts is a very important sealing concern- so I can easily understand how dry air valve stems should not be used for liquid filled tires. We watch Outdoors with the Morgan's regularly and was surprised he took delivery of a tractor with a front end loader equipped tractor without liquid ballast. We have two Kubota tractors and both were delivered with liquid ballast in the rear tires.
I prefer your channel. I used to watch his channel a couple of years ago. I like yours because it seems to be more about education and you don’t seem to unnecessarily lengthen the video. It seems like yours is intended to help with sales instead of simply being about monetization of the channel.
@@GoodWorksTractors I agree with his comments as well. I don't watch their channel because I am not into so many folks pushing content based on their monetization strategies
@@slmjake I don't watch them anymore either, not because of the monetization but because in one video he used "I" around 15 times in 3 minutes, that was all we could take.
@@curtanderson8655 If me remember it was 16 times, me know that because you sent me an email letting me know how many times me said that. Me replied to your email saying me thought it was one of the strangest emails me have ever received.
I researched this pretty extensively not knowing the topic when I bought my 2038r. Spent over a year deciding on my dealer and in the end I picked the dealer I trusted. He also recommended rim guard and said warrantee was good. That did it for me. Been in my tires 5 years now no issue
Great video and factually presented as well. Mike Morgan got ahead of his ski’s by repeating uninformed hearsay from a dealer. Mike needs to correct this directly with his viewers and learn a lesson don’t repeat gossip….. “ loose lips sink ships”.
Mike Morgan also said he "didn't know", he was just passing on information he received from his tire shop. That is what we are all doing here....passing on information. I don't believe malice was any part of the equation.
Great info! I purchased my Kioti HST2610 from the dealer with liquid ballast in the tires. I don't know what they filled them with or whether my valve stems are metal or rubber (pretty sure rubber), but I'm definitely going to check into it after seeing your video. Thank you!
When I was in the market for Rimguard two years ago I called the couple dealers by me. One made me feel like I was bothering them, and the other quoted me 2 hours per tire at 105 per hour. I had to take the tractor to them, so I thought 820 plus tax and my time to haul was a bit much. Hopefully since then the dealers dialed that in because a 1025r doesn't seem that hard to do, and I did it myself with another product. Maybe they were having a bad day.
I admit to not paying detailed attention to what was put in my tractor tires, but the dealer filled them the first time many years ago with a brown liquid. I think he said it was biodegradable and made from beet juice, but I am not 100% sure as that was more than 17 years ago. After about 10 years the valve stems had corroded and were leaking brown goo so I took the wheels back to the dealer. They removed the old liquid, replaced the valve stems and refilled the tires. I thought they said they used something that was less messy and “better”, but again I got no brand name. I had one of the tires get a little soft so I checked and while I did not see any obvious leakage, the valve cap was so corroded to the valve stem that I had to use pliers to remove it (metal cap and metal valve stem). I added some air to bring the tire up a little and the stem seemed to seal OK. I then replaced the valve cap after putting a little silicone grease on it. So, I have yet to see a tire load fluid that doesn’t corrode something, but I don’t know which brand I have that is corroding I just know it is brown and messy. I also can’t say if I have the “liquid” valve stems, but I do know that mine are all metal and not the same as the OEM stems that came with the wheels from John Deere so I assume that are the correct stems. However, the caps have still corroded. And, as an aside, I seldom take the manufacturer’s word for it on things like corrosion. I have seen them be wrong too many times. I take the experience of users and my experience is that tire filling liquids are very useful, but all are nasty to work with and corrode some metals.
Clearly the best 11+ minutes of informational video I have watched today. Thank you for explaining the various tire ballast fillers, their pros and cons, and leaking valve issue in terms I can understand.
The issue with rimguard comes with the fact that it degrades the glue in a standard passenger or lawnmower valve type valve ( TR412,413,415 ect ) causing the brass part of the stem to actually pull out of the rubber stem. Rimguard wants you to use a TR600HP or the like instead, which you would use on something like a lawnmower where the bead can be broken and dump the ballast in. You need a liquid valve ( TR618A ) to put liquid in any larger tire, which are available in snap in or clamp in.
Thanks Jason. We did make a couple videos of it, but no livestreams. I'm not sure I've got the cell signal out here to do it. It's a bit of a black hole.
Tire guy told him rim guard is hard to work with,, which it is, messy, hard on pumps... Tire guy switched to bio ballast because it's filtered better and easy to work with...
The replacement of Valve stems is advise anytime a tire is changed 1 and if it’s been a long time (10 years) the valve stems should be replaced. If you put anything other than air or nitrogen in a tire surely something needs to be reviewed or replaced. Don’t be cheap in short. Go Blue !
Courtney awesome video. Have 2 tractors and been running rim guard in both for a decade. On the farm 4 tractors all have rim guard in tires. One of those 4 is an original and has had rim guard for 21 year’s not a single issue ever in any of 6. I do know calcium was very corrosive. Never used windshield washer fluid and cannot speak to that. Rim guard and as much other weight I can get on is a game changer and especially with cabs.
My farm tractors are not the latest but they are 200 hp tractors. They all have calcium chloride in their tires but they also have inter tubes in the tires so the ballast doesn't come in contact with the rim.
What's funny to me, is I actually watched Mike's video a few days ago. I saw him say that, and couldn't help but chuckle as I thought "Ooohhhh, GWT is gonna have an issue with that!" 🤣 All good fun, I love the tractor community!
I did not know about the valve stems! That’s really interesting; I’ll have to check mine as my tires are filled with Caliber M-1000 and they have been using it for years with no issues of corrosion… So maybe they also make sure the valve stems are compatible when they add the ballast. I got my tractor used from them, I didn’t ask about liquid ballast at the time until Mo my dealer said they always liquid fill the tires off the lot unless the customer says they don’t want it.
I don't know what product was used, but my tractor dealer loaded the tires in my new tractor 2 years ago, and currently the paint has popped off the rim around the valve stems and rust is forming. Sounds like I need some beet juice.
There are many of you upset by this video and I don't understand why? Did you watch the whole video? He clearly isn't attacking the other channel. In fact he recommended that his own viewers go check it out and subscribe if they aren't already. He gave you evidence based information that countered information that was relayed by the other channel. By "relayed" I'm saying it was repeated with little to no research done or evidence to support the information given. None of this is that big of a deal. People repeat things they've heard all the time. Why does it anger you if someone counters that information with evidence based statements? Debates are a good thing. Stop getting so offended so easily.
Lol completely agree. For the record, the thumbs up percentage is over 98%. It's just the vocal minority speaking their mind. They'll feel better once they get it off their chest. :)
My tire guy put in metal valve stems with my last refill. I had actually lost some fluid through a broken valve stem. Not sure if broken in the woods or deteriorated by rimguard. Just good insurance since I had also broken one when removing a wheel weight.
I have a 55 massey that sat in a field for 20 years. Tires had calcium chloride in them. Couldn't believe it didn't rot out the tires. They are still on tractor now.
Thank you, and please don't stop making your videos. I may not buy or use things that you have for sale, but we can learn and that is always a big help. I checked on some of the liquid that goes in the tires, and it was around $250 for the rear tires on our BX. We might get some one of these days but for now we are using 2 old log chains wrapped around a bar that goes on the arms of the 3 point hitch. 1 chain is about 40 feet long 1/2-inch chain the other is 5/8 chain around 25 feet long. It's not the best, it is not the most weight but for about $60 it works for us. Thank you.
I have a farmer friend that works about 6,000 acres to support a dairy operation. For years they've used numerous tractors for many different functions. He told me that they now only use wheel weights. If you have a flat tire it compounds the problem. Any liquid in a tire is going to cause deterioration of the rim and rubber. With weights you don't need special equipment and in the event of destroying a tire with weights you don't lose the ballast product. Sure makes sense to me because back in the day I'd lost a rim or two besides being at the mercy of the tire company's time frame. Wheel weights don't evaporate. ( :
@@GoodWorksTractors Doesn't hurt to put a wrench on'em while servicing. Never lost one myself or know of anyone's failing. But I've turned an axle on a key-way from lack of (rookie) checking tightness. Have a Happy New Year.
I have a lx3310 and I work in the bush and do a lot on snow plow and blow. So I don't see the need to add weight other than accessories. I think it's overkill. Plus you lose comfort
Yeah I’ve heard that the rim guard is not compatible with rubber valve stems because it will break down the glue in the rubber valve stems. It won’t cause any corrosion, but you could have a valve stem failure and a flat. Supposedly it’s the glue in the valve stem.
Not sure why you stated you have a "bone to pick" with Mike Morgan. You took a deeper dive into tire ballast. Another viewer gave you the idea to do this. He didn't endorse anything, he simply went with the recommendation of his shop and communicated what they put in.
I have a solution that 100% guarantees no corrosion from ballast - cast iron weights on a real tractor. These new oversized lawn mowers are junk that will be sitting in the landfill while my equipment will still be going strong.
You nailed it! Its a air vs liquid...100% correct! You explained it PERFECTLY! I`ve run rim guard for many years, installed stainless stems, never once had an issue, ever. Who ever told Mike Morgan that line of BS needs to be educated. I commented on Mike Morgans channel about it as well. Not sure if he ever responded back, but i did tell him that his tire shop doesn`t know what they are talking about.
I had that issue with the valves on my 1025r. I had to replace the stem valve with new ones. It’s not RimGuard . My issues was the dealer used the wrong valve. I had no lie issues once I had the valve replaced with the correct ones.
FWIW, my local JD dealer switched to Bioguard from Rimguard for ease of handling and cleanup. BTW, I stopped watching the other guy because his channel was mostly about product marketing.
Just asking. Would it be better to just get wheel weights that bolt on to the rim? I’ve read of what the products cost with new valve stems and I can’t help to think maybe wheel weights are the way to go. Please comment.
So are all the RimGuard dealers informed/ educated that they shouldn’t install it in tires without proper valve stem’s? I have RimGuard and fortunately have the correct valve stem’s. Maybe I missed it but I don’t remember seeing a warning or suggestion on the RimGuard web page about the type of valve stem needed. Maybe it should be made more obvious.
RimGuard isn't sold direct to consumers. It is only sold through dealers that they sign up and train. So, the training is done with the installing dealer and technicians. That's the odd thing about what Mike's tire dealer is telling him. They should know better.
How much more of a disclaimer would make you happy? Mike said..."take it for what it's worth...he said, she said kinda thing...I don't know the whole story, but we are trying out Bio Ballast. I don't know about Rimguard. I don't want to bash a product or anything like that if I don't have any personal experience..."
Tire industry guy here… First-love your videos. But, you’re interchanging the terms valve core and valve stem. These are completely different and distinct parts. I will say I would always recommend beat juice. I use it in my own tractor. But I can tell you the beat juice does get gunky and can clog a valve core causing leaking. What should you do? Throw an air chuck on there and blow it out. Or replace the core. It’s easy. You can even do it yourself l. And if you do t want to; haul that tractor down to the shop that filled your tires and tell them to replace it. Takes a matter of moments depending on how full your tire is. If they want to charge you…. Find a new shop.
First, I not only watch your channel, but Mike’s also. In this case I like your approach Information and data vs. the tire guy said. I know several guys that run rim guard and have no complaints. However, I never thought to look or ask them about valve stems… I didn’t even know there was a air/liquid stem. A friend has been bugging me to get the tires loaded on the old green beast so I have been doing a wee bit of research on getting the tires filled. Just looked out and checked….. I’ll have to replace the rubber valve stems. Keep up the videos… they’re great.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
I think it's pretty obvious that we're serious about ballast weight. Regardless what you think about the video, I'm hoping you take tractor safety seriously! Read your manual, hopefully you'll find all the information you need in there to properly ballast your tractor. RimGuard in the tires, wheel weights, a ballast box, suitcase weights. You'd be surprised how much you need to safely and effectively use your tractor. If there's something we can help you with, then please check out our website at www.goodworkstractors.com Be safe out there!
I bought an old Kawasaki Mule a few years ago, clapped out POS but one weird thing was the tires were chalk full of rubber/silicone maybe? They didn’t have any air, just solidified rubber. It made the wheels incredibly heavy. I don’t know the kind of factory that owned the Mule before I did but I suspect they had access to a plethora of injectable silicone/rubber. Took days to cut the tires off with that stuff. My garbage can had to weigh 400lb easily.
I checked out your wheel weights but got a reply that just ordering them shipping would be too much.
I think the only way to clear this up once and for all is to get Project Farm to do a comparison of liquid ballasts.
Haha, best comment yet!
I can just see Todd filling the tires of his Winnebago (I can't remember his name for it) with different brands of fluid and heading off into the fields with the exhaust flare sticking out the side.
@@flick22601Farm-a-bago 😂
@@flick22601 "Farm-a-bago" is what I think PF calls it. LOL.
Lmao I love his channel!!
It was the dealer that made this claim. Not Mike Morgan. Mike was just reiterating what the dealer told him. He made that quite clear in the video. The dealer was probably talking about rubber valve cores.
Just to clarify, even though I’m in the thumbnail and video I am not sponsored by Rim Guard even though the video is sponsored by Rim Guard….. hey wait a minute? Am I now inadvertently sponsored by rim guard?
Haha, the man himself. Everybody, I present to you OWTM. For endless entertainment and superior machine operating skills, I suggest you check them out :) th-cam.com/users/OutdoorsWithTheMorgans
Lol Looks like Mike just got sponsored by Courtney, or is it the other way around? 🤔 😆 🤣 lol
no comment on whether or not your tire guy replaced the valve stems with the air/liquid ones ????
I subscribe to ya both and feel both offer honest opinions and don’t over sell. That’s obvious by Mike saying what he did about not having personal experience with rimguard.
Thanks to you both for full disclosure…I think a good evaluation from users/viewers would clear it up. Down south I mixed h2O with antifreeze without issue…I will say that when humid my rims and tires drip water and tractor stays inside shop.
By the way Mike, I’m ready to order some fire starter and want to see the new bagging machine in action.
Mike was pretty clear this was his tire shops opinion and not his own. To make him the centrepiece of your video proves only one thing - you’re using his name to get more views. This video should’ve been sponsored by Mike Morgan.
On a side note. My tire shop said the same. They switched back to calcium.
I too follow Mike's channel and as you said he specifically said in his video that this was just what he was told by his tire shop and not necessarily fact. Thanks for running this down and getting the correct information and sharing it on your channel.
When I purchased my tractor, the very first thing that I purchased was RIMGAURD tire ballast. When I contacted my dealer he specifically stated that first and foremost that I needed to have the value stems replaced with the compatible ones. This is great information and something that I am sure will continue to stir the pot in the ballast world. The main thing in any situation in my opinion is Research. Always do your research and when you do that you become educated in the areas that you were not familiar with. Great video, great information.
Agreed, we showed an old clip from our channel discussing it, but sometimes these topics deserve a refresh. Thousands of new tractor owners coming into the fold every year. Thanks for watching!
Seems to me that ALL tractor manufacturers should use all metal valve stems since adding liquid ballast at some point is a fairly common practice. Just makes sense to me. Awesome job Courtney in running down the root cause of the leak issue. you would
make a fine engineer!
When I got my 1025r dealer had liquid ballast of some kind installed. I just went out and checked…rubber valve stems. I will be contacting the dealer next week to get the proper valve stems. Thank you for the clarification
Another benefit of the rim guard is that if you get a nail puncture, the air won’t immediately leak out as the rim guard acts as a self sealing liquid. I got a nail puncture in the rear tire in between the tread on my L4060. I noticed a dark syrup looking goo slowly forming on the tire. I didn’t make the connection to what it was immediately. I thought I ran over a piece of melted candy. 🤷♂️. The next day I tried to clean it off with a paper towel and only then noticed that it was a puncture. Even after wiping the quarter sized ball of goo off the air was barely even leaking out and the puncture was facing up above the liquid line. Plugged the hole with a standard plug kit. Haven’t had a problem since and the air pressure was still the same. It was just pushing the beet juice residue out in very small amounts. So I definitely recommend using it.
Not sure what kind of liquid ballast I have (bought the tractor used) but it is blue but not antifreeze. My 1025R had rubber valve stems and the metal core popped out and leaked liquid ballast on my concrete floor. The issue was like posted, the glue let loose and therefore so did the liquid. I changed to metal valve stems and no problem. I would certainly recommend metal valve stems with liquid ballast. You don't want a mess like I had.
Kind of shows how dealers can pass on low-quality information based on something "they heard", and how it becomes a game of Telephone as the message gets distorted. I had read about this issue on the green tractor forum, so before I got my 3039R rear tires filled with RimGuard I checked with my dealer, who said it came equipped with the required metal valves. (My dealer also uses RimGuard.) Also double-checked with the RimGuard dealer's employees who came to the house to fill the tires. (Edited): And as you showed, the BioBallast SDS only says "Proprietary Organic Based Components" (page 1), and below that table it says "The exact concentration is being withheld as a trade secret." I would never bash a product I have no personal experience with, but that approach isn't exactly what one might call "confidence inspiring".
Sounds like you had done your research ahead of time. It shouldn't be tough to find clear answers from a manufacturer. On occasion we'll get a question about a product and we don't have the answer on the website. Whenever that happens, we add the info to the website to give customers as much info as possible about what we sell.
I’ll share a couple experiences I’ve had with a kubota bx1500 and a garden tractor. My first sub compact came with the house when we bought it, had rimguard in the rear, both rubber valve stems failed where the rubber and he brass come together. Almost like years of shock pulses worked the seam between the rubber and brass vulcanization apart over time. I could literally pull the brass right out of the rubber… replaced both stems with out removing the rim guard (what a nightmare process btw) and was good to go. Then last year had my father in-laws garden tractor have the exact same thing happen. Since I can’t confirm what the rating of the valve stems were, I can only say they both failed the same way by separation, not by corrosion… and neither were new. So basically confirming your liquid incompatibility with generic air type rated valve stems… my 1025r also running rimguard with zero issues since new in 2014
100% correct. I have B series Kubota with Rim Guard. I like the product but it did dissolve the glue holding the metal valve in the rubber valve stem housing. Replaced them wirh bolt in all metal valves 2 years ago with no problems. This took me about 20 minutes to fix.
Glad to hear it Eric, thanks for chiming in!
Thanks for a good video Courtney! I read a lot of comments on YT channels, fb posts, sales adds, etc. trying to gather information. One thing I am always amazed with is some peoples complete lack of reading (or listening) comprehension. Mike never said a negative word about RimGuard but rather simply stated that he was only passing a long what he was told and even followed up by saying he didn't know. You said this very same thing regarding Mike's video in your opening comments. To be fair to you there are a lot of people that would wrongly interpret Mike's comment as meaning RimGuard has a corrosion problem. I think your video could be described as a factual extension of Mike's video. Thank you for the specific information. And people....a videos name is like a newspapers headline; it's designed to capture attention and to get people to read the article - period. Many video names do NOT accurately describe the videos content.
Great reply. I do feel it’s unfortunate however to title a video with a borderline false claim to get someone’s attention. People are so drama hungry.
Let me add a technical detail. Having worked in the auto industry (GM) for 40 years, with considerable experience with tires: tire design, tire testing, tire traction, and tire durability.
Tires are designed as air chambers which support axle loads. Load rating/capacity is a function of air volume. When you take away much of that air volume with an incompressible fluid, the hydraulic shock can overload components not originally designed for the dynamic overpressure from impacts, heavy loads, curb strikes, potholes, etc. In this case the valve stems are probably the 'fuse' in the line of succession. Bent or failed rims also result if you have a 12 or 16 ply tire holding down the fort, so to speak.
Thanks for the info Bill. I know that ballast installers recommend leaving 20-25% space for air to adjust pressure for ride, load, etc. Perhaps it's related to the valve stems as well?
We had calcium chloride for decades. Never had an issue. We always kept an eye on the valve stems. Every once in a while we had to replace valve stem core if it started to seep. Never had a rim get rusty or rust out. Tubes only not tubeless.
Im not a fan of filling my tires with anything but air. My opinion and reasoning for my personal situation is that my 2320 is occasionally used with a 62” mower deck. I like the fact of keeping the tractor relatively light. So when i use the mower deck i remove the ballast box. Thus less sinking into soft spots. But i also think the weight distributed differently in comparison to a ballast box or filled tires. Again, my experience i love my setup utilizing the ballast box over tire weight. But im sure weighted tires will benefit certain conditions that i just don’t come in contact with. Good video once again brother.
Living for a few years in the great plains/midwest, I did learn about one way "beet juice can corrode a rim and a valve stem/valve core". A few states mix beet juice in with their liquid chloride road-deicing brine and a few "less than intelligent" folks did install some of that in tires as ballast, because they had a bunch of it, and it was cheap... (looking at you, public works...) Salt water, mixed with beet juice. Of course it failed miserably, but the urban legend of "corrosive beet juice" ran wild across parts of Missouri and Kansas for a time....the ironic part is the beet juice is mixed with the deicing brine as a corrosion inhibitor, to minimize some of the impact the chlorides have on the steel components of roadways.
Yikes, what a disaster! Thanks for sharing!
I did my research & you are right. You clarified it correctly. Mike's dealer stating that "their" ballast is heavier than RimGuard is a local defending his choice to sell something that may be cheaper for him to buy & thus more profit. Not all dealers are "truthful". If your dealer says that: 1) Get a gallon of RimGuard. 2) Make him bring a gallon of his product. 3) Weigh them side by side on the same scale. End of controversy. If he loses, you get free RimGuard & he pays. (He will not agree to this because he knows he's been caught.)
I'm good with that, bring it on :)
About a month ago, I spent $700 replacing the calcium in my Ford 6610-S. With that, both inner tubes were also replaced. One day I went to use my 6610 and there it sat with a flat tire. The valve stem was laying on the floor by the tire. So I carefully loaded the tractor on my dozer trailer and off to the tire shop I went. When I got there I told them to fix both tires. They did the flat one first, then the one that was holding pressure. I watched the entire process. When they started to work on the "good" tire, all they did was reach over and touch its valve stem and it broke off in their hand. They put the new product in. based on the old windshield washer fluid. I don't remember the name of it. I know this, calcium will never be used in one of my tires again. I did have beet juice in my John Deere 2010, which I sold last fall. My tire dealer used to use it, but they had too many tire problems with it and they quit using it. Lee
On my big Fords I would change out the valve stems every couple of years. I know there was a different valve stem to be used with any liquid ballast vs just air. On the farm I used Calcium Cloride as long as it didn't get through the tube or leaked out the valve it was fine.
I've been using Rim Guard in my Kubota L3400 for 14 years now. No issues at all. Original AG tires also.
Thanks for your feedback Dave!
Great video Courtney! Thanks for clearing up the heresay scuttlebutt! When Mike stated that, I was thinking that maybe "corrosion" was simply misconstrued as product that was gumming up inside the valve stem. I don't know if Rim Guard leaves a sticky residue when it dries or not. Maybe it never dries up when exposed to the atmosphere, I don't know. At this point, I don't really care.
Thanks Kyle. Good question about a sticky residue in the stems. I'll have to find out.
I had first hear of Rim guard from TTWT TH-cam channel several years ago then I searched the Rim Guard website for my nearest dealer. Turns out my nearest dealer was not really actively selling it anymore and had switched to Bio Guard as well.
I 100% believe your correct Bio guard is a little lighter weight per gallon, about a pound sounds about right.
The local ag tire shop Rim guard had sent me to, had indicated that the Rim guard product was more difficult to work with, I believe that the beet juice is thicker and stickier then Bio guard, that was how they explained it to me.
That because of those things, they had found Rim guard was harder to pump, harder on their equipment, that it took longer to fill and in general was simply more difficult to work with, so they switch back to Bio guard for those reasons.
Be careful. Don’t want start another rumor. Lol…
Nice job Courtney on laying out the facts. Now I understand why my local tire dealer installed metal valve stems before filling with beet juice. Thanks again for taking the time to clear this topic up.
Take it for what it’s worth, of the hundred or so tires on our farm, the only valve stems I have issues with are with rim guard. No issues with calcium chloride.
That's good info on the stems. I feel like I remember that coming up when Tim @tractor time with Tim got Rim Guard installed on video. I've had Rim Guard installed on 2 tractors one of which was about 19 years ago. Never had an issue or even a puncture with them in that time.
Glad to hear it, have a good one!
I heard what Mike said, but I read between the lines and wondered if the Bio Ballast people came into the tire shop with a better deal for the dealer, so the dealer switched over. That sounds like a more plausible scenario than the corrosion story. As a dealer, wouldn't you want to have solid evidence that Bio Ballast is definitely non-corrosive or less corrosive before switching? Otherwise, you're switching from a fill that "they" say may be corrosive to a fill that has unknown or TBD corrosion results. Doesn't make sense. When things don't add up, you can typically trace it back to financial motives.
That's a fair point
Exactly, follow the money..........lol
Another issue I see with the Air Only valve stems is the sealing between the rim and the valve stem. It is an interference fit versus a compression seal with the Air/Liquid valve stems.
That seems to make sense to me
My son has had Rim Guard in his Kioti tires for over 12 years with no issues. I have Rim Guard in my Kubota tires and no issues.
I bought a used tractor (my first tractor) a while back for snowblowing on the shore of Lake Superior. I didn't even know that the tires were ballasted. They were ballasted with Rimguard and had rubber valves. I went to check the tire pressure and instead of the valve cap coming off the whole valve came out because the glue failed. That was interesting and messy. Fortunately I was able to stick the valve back together and the pressure never blew the valve apart. A couple years later and I had a small leak in the sidewall which would ooze Rimguard with each rotation. Rimguard wasn't available from the tire shop I used to replace the tires so now I have Bio-ballast, which was the product that they used, and metal valve stems. This happened when the tractor was about 9-11 years old
I recently inquired about rimguard with my local ag tire dealer. Said he used to deal with it but the negative end was its apparently messier than other liquid ballest when it comes to changing the tire and his employees didn't want to mess with it. He deals with corn byproduct now but sold me on foam as it's comparable in weight and about $100 cheaper than liquid ballest plus never have to worry about getting a flat. Ultimately just like with which make of tractor you go with it comes down to who's your closes dealer and the service they provide. For me my local dealer is 20 minutes away and provides quick service whereas the nearest rimguard dealer is over an hr away. If my dealer still dealt with rimguard then I'd probably have gone with that just based on your promotion of it. As always great video and keep them coming.
Foam: Interesting stuff, how's it ride?
@Good Works Tractors no different than having liquid ballest in my opinion.
Nice, I'm just not familiar with it. You still fill with air if needed or they just fill to a certain level and that's it? No adjustments?
@Good Works Tractors fill and done deal. They use it alot on wheel skidloaders as sometimes making those tight turns can cause a tire to break its seal on the rim even with liquid ballest. If I understand correctly the foam becomes solid but yet still has a bit of give do not like riding with steel wheels.
I went through something similar myself. Tried to get rimguard, but the dealer was now using bioballast. They said it was easier to deal with in terms of spills or leaks.
Interesting. If you compare the main bullet points of RimGuard and BioBallast, they are almost identical in benefits.
I'll tell you what I think, the cheap manufacture of valve stems is the issue I've seen supposedly good commercial valve stems and they were junk, especially the rubber or other material, plastic type stuff, on a cheap core body. In the old days stuff like this made in the USA but now is sourced out of China with 50 different manufacturers.
It's a global market out there for sure. Certainly there are some decent international manufacturers of valve stems.
Courtney, when I purchase my JD tractor in 2007 the JD dealer installed Rim Guard and it has worked great for 15 yrs. thanks, Bob
So the way I understand it if you use the rimguard you have to make sure your valve stems are compatible for air/water or chemical resistant which if it doesn't have the right valve stems it would be an added expense to put rimguard or bio-ballast as the valve stems would have to be replaced which means dismounting the tire halfway. I like the idea of ballast in your tires but if you get a major puncture if you don't notice it real quick when out in the field you'll lose your ballast if you don't have a plug kit to stop it. I carry string plugs with me if I'm doing a job. As to get a tire repair shop to come out and fix it costs alot of money. I've plugged tires many times, call me tight!
Yeah, any liquid ballast, not just RimGuard. You need valve stems that are compatible with air AND liquid. That's the key.
Did you miss the MultiSeal video? You can add the 1500 version to liquid ballast and it stops up to 1/2" punctures! Plus, save 5% with code GWT at multiseal.us th-cam.com/video/jttGx75xBTo/w-d-xo.html
The thing about the valve stems is important for anyone that has liquid ballast. I put RV antifreeze into my lawn tractor tires, and they have rubber valve stems, so I may have trouble in the future but two years so far so good. I have some steep hills in my yard and changing to an ag tread tire and adding the ballast has helped tremendously.
I called local tire companies and found 1 place who said "I have some Rimguard left from someone else that HAD to have it and I'll sell you that, but we're not servicing the tire if it pops" He said, that was because the stuff is revoltingly-stinky and a total mess to deal with when you get a tire pop because it's kind of a sludge/slurpee consistency. Called another place that does liquid ballast for local companies and they said the same and they exclusively use water/mag and Multiseal 1500 mix.
Lol, a tire shop that won't do the dirty work.
Always make sure the valve stems are compatible. The complications with metal stems are they MAY eventually corrode with the de-icing salt applications. Same thing with metal caps.
Another factor MIGHT be the age of the tire at time of purchase. They may be sold as new because they've never been used and they may look good but conceivably they could be a couple of years old or older...
I suspect that instances of the use of bead sealant (a form of adhesive, actually) MAY also deteriorate over time, with liquid ballast soaking into it over years. ANY competitive ballast product will go out of its way to blast another competitor's product, simply by using an isolated instance (not identifying the actual REASON, but citing the competitive product as the cause). RimGuard has been in use worldwide for decades, and failures due to its product would not keep it as the 1st choice in tractor tires, IF it had problems with it.
We always install a tube when using liquid ballast of any kind. Relatively cheap insurance. Calcium Chloride works fine, is heavy, and cheap. Yes, leaks need to be repaired quickly to prevent corrosion at the rim, but most leaks are in the exposed area so you would know quickly.
Now I'm curious about how that tire puncture fluid that you had a video on might affect an air-only valve stem. Could it cause valve stem delamination because it's a fluid? Or would it seal the valve stem because, well, that's what it does.
That's a good question! I'll have to ask MultiSeal about that. I can see it doing either of those things, haha! I do believe they've been out for decades as well, so you'd think they'd have figured it out already if it was a problem at one point.
Thank for taking the time to point this out. As I watch Mike as well but he did say take it for what it worth. Love Your channel keep up the great work. By the way could you do a video on how to add the liquid tire plug to your tires?
It's good to see you all riled up. Merry Christmas and happy New year.
Lol, just excited to share the facts :)
im in Ohio north of columbus and most tire guys wont even work on tires that have rim guard in them , they say it smells like death when they change it and it is a mess to work with ,. me my self use windshield washer fluid in my Tractor,. no corrosion and no issues at the tire shops .
I stopped using RimGuard because it clogged up the valve stems. Glued the valve stem cap. The valve then failed causing a huge mess.
My John Deere dealer switched to a soybean oil product.
Your results may vary.
Interesting, I'll have to ask them about that. Thanks for sharing!
Sounds like a conversation you should have had with Mike privately, Giving him the opportunity if he felt he was incorrect about the ballast issue, then he could have addressed it to his followers.
Neah
I've got windshield washer in my 1723, for 3 years, and no issues. Time wise, I figure I'll wear them out or damage the tires before the valve stem gives me problems. I would change the tires myself and then change the valve stem and put windshield washer fluid back in
Yeah, I think it takes awhile for the deterioration to happen. Thanks for watching Chris!
Instead of water in the tires ! I added 1000 pounds on my box blade 😅 and it works even better now ! Cause it won’t float or bounce over hard surfaces and when I take it off and pull my brush cutter ! That’s when you don’t want any additional weight 😅
I formerly worked in subsea electrical connectors. The adhesion promoter, aka primer, used between polymers and metal shells and inserts is a very important sealing concern- so I can easily understand how dry air valve stems should not be used for liquid filled tires. We watch Outdoors with the Morgan's regularly and was surprised he took delivery of a tractor with a front end loader equipped tractor without liquid ballast. We have two Kubota tractors and both were delivered with liquid ballast in the rear tires.
I prefer your channel. I used to watch his channel a couple of years ago. I like yours because it seems to be more about education and you don’t seem to unnecessarily lengthen the video. It seems like yours is intended to help with sales instead of simply being about monetization of the channel.
Thanks Monk, I appreciate it!
@@GoodWorksTractors I agree with his comments as well. I don't watch their channel because I am not into so many folks pushing content based on their monetization strategies
@@slmjake I don't watch them anymore either, not because of the monetization but because in one video he used "I" around 15 times in 3 minutes, that was all we could take.
@@curtanderson8655 If me remember it was 16 times, me know that because you sent me an email letting me know how many times me said that. Me replied to your email saying me thought it was one of the strangest emails me have ever received.
@Outdoors With The Morgans LMAO.....Me just watched you on your live stream talking about this. Me had to come check it out for myself.
That's what I was told also...change the valve stems to the metal..Happy New Year🇺🇸
Glad to hear it Jeff, Happy New Year!
I researched this pretty extensively not knowing the topic when I bought my 2038r. Spent over a year deciding on my dealer and in the end I picked the dealer I trusted. He also recommended rim guard and said warrantee was good. That did it for me. Been in my tires 5 years now no issue
It’s not misinformation. It sounds like a dealer opinion to me and to Mike. Which he states!! Sounds like your gaslighting
Amazing how worked up some folks get over minute details....the main point flies right over your head. Shows the importance of a good title :)
Been using Rimguard aka beet juice for 10 yrs and never a problem. Threw out several wheels over the yrs when using calcium chloride.
Great video and factually presented as well. Mike Morgan got ahead of his ski’s by repeating uninformed hearsay from a dealer. Mike needs to correct this directly with his viewers and learn a lesson don’t repeat gossip….. “ loose lips sink ships”.
Have a good one Gene!
Mike Morgan also said he "didn't know", he was just passing on information he received from his tire shop. That is what we are all doing here....passing on information. I don't believe malice was any part of the equation.
Great info! I purchased my Kioti HST2610 from the dealer with liquid ballast in the tires. I don't know what they filled them with or whether my valve stems are metal or rubber (pretty sure rubber), but I'm definitely going to check into it after seeing your video. Thank you!
Whatever you fill your tires with, have it done by a professional. Period.
Unless you really, really know what you're doing :)
When I was in the market for Rimguard two years ago I called the couple dealers by me. One made me feel like I was bothering them, and the other quoted me 2 hours per tire at 105 per hour. I had to take the tractor to them, so I thought 820 plus tax and my time to haul was a bit much. Hopefully since then the dealers dialed that in because a 1025r doesn't seem that hard to do, and I did it myself with another product. Maybe they were having a bad day.
I admit to not paying detailed attention to what was put in my tractor tires, but the dealer filled them the first time many years ago with a brown liquid. I think he said it was biodegradable and made from beet juice, but I am not 100% sure as that was more than 17 years ago. After about 10 years the valve stems had corroded and were leaking brown goo so I took the wheels back to the dealer. They removed the old liquid, replaced the valve stems and refilled the tires. I thought they said they used something that was less messy and “better”, but again I got no brand name. I had one of the tires get a little soft so I checked and while I did not see any obvious leakage, the valve cap was so corroded to the valve stem that I had to use pliers to remove it (metal cap and metal valve stem). I added some air to bring the tire up a little and the stem seemed to seal OK. I then replaced the valve cap after putting a little silicone grease on it. So, I have yet to see a tire load fluid that doesn’t corrode something, but I don’t know which brand I have that is corroding I just know it is brown and messy.
I also can’t say if I have the “liquid” valve stems, but I do know that mine are all metal and not the same as the OEM stems that came with the wheels from John Deere so I assume that are the correct stems. However, the caps have still corroded. And, as an aside, I seldom take the manufacturer’s word for it on things like corrosion. I have seen them be wrong too many times. I take the experience of users and my experience is that tire filling liquids are very useful, but all are nasty to work with and corrode some metals.
Thanks for your feedback LT. Tough to say with the missing pieces of the puzzle, but glad to have the data point regardless. Have a good one!
We are a BioBallast dealer. It has a weight of 9.7lb per gallon and a freeze point of -30F.
Clearly the best 11+ minutes of informational video I have watched today. Thank you for explaining the various tire ballast fillers, their pros and cons, and leaking valve issue in terms I can understand.
The issue with rimguard comes with the fact that it degrades the glue in a standard passenger or lawnmower valve type valve ( TR412,413,415 ect ) causing the brass part of the stem to actually pull out of the rubber stem. Rimguard wants you to use a TR600HP or the like instead, which you would use on something like a lawnmower where the bead can be broken and dump the ballast in. You need a liquid valve ( TR618A ) to put liquid in any larger tire, which are available in snap in or clamp in.
Great video Courtney! hey you should do a YT, FB or IG live video pushing all that snow.
Thanks Jason. We did make a couple videos of it, but no livestreams. I'm not sure I've got the cell signal out here to do it. It's a bit of a black hole.
My guess is Mike’s tire guy is in with the bio ballast co. and is promoting the product.
Not sure, but hopefully they're setting up their customers for success. Thanks for watching!
I’m sure Mike will let us know if it’s successful. He’s funny like that. Lol.
Tire guy told him rim guard is hard to work with,, which it is, messy, hard on pumps... Tire guy switched to bio ballast because it's filtered better and easy to work with...
Great great info….. I suspected that this was the correct story when Mike brought this to our attention. Thx Cory
Thanks for watching!
I use -20°f windshield washer fluid.
Mary a single issue!
The replacement of Valve stems is advise anytime a tire is changed 1 and if it’s been a long time (10 years) the valve stems should be replaced. If you put anything other than air or nitrogen in a tire surely something needs to be reviewed or replaced. Don’t be cheap in short. Go Blue !
Courtney awesome video. Have 2 tractors and been running rim guard in both for a decade. On the farm 4 tractors all have rim guard in tires. One of those 4 is an original and has had rim guard for 21 year’s not a single issue ever in any of 6. I do know calcium was very corrosive. Never used windshield washer fluid and cannot speak to that. Rim guard and as much other weight I can get on is a game changer and especially with cabs.
This probably has more to do with a sponsorship from this new company more than him really thinking RimGuard is bad if I had to guess.
My farm tractors are not the latest but they are 200 hp tractors. They all have calcium chloride in their tires but they also have inter tubes in the tires so the ballast doesn't come in contact with the rim.
What's funny to me, is I actually watched Mike's video a few days ago. I saw him say that, and couldn't help but chuckle as I thought "Ooohhhh, GWT is gonna have an issue with that!" 🤣 All good fun, I love the tractor community!
Mike was repeating what the Tire Dealer told him… that was not Mike’s opinion.
Oh I totally understood that, I never said it was Mike's personal opinion.
You can’t disagree with your paid sponsor, just like he seems to be promoting a new product!
Neah, I’m just clarifying bad information.
I did not know about the valve stems! That’s really interesting; I’ll have to check mine as my tires are filled with Caliber M-1000 and they have been using it for years with no issues of corrosion… So maybe they also make sure the valve stems are compatible when they add the ballast. I got my tractor used from them, I didn’t ask about liquid ballast at the time until Mo my dealer said they always liquid fill the tires off the lot unless the customer says they don’t want it.
Nice, I'd be interested in knowing what you find out. Thanks for chiming in!
I don't know what product was used, but my tractor dealer loaded the tires in my new tractor 2 years ago, and currently the paint has popped off the rim around the valve stems and rust is forming. Sounds like I need some beet juice.
Wow, that's actually happening quicker than I would have guessed.
I dont see anything wrong with either video, its how we learn! Thanks to both parties
Thanks for watching!
There are many of you upset by this video and I don't understand why? Did you watch the whole video? He clearly isn't attacking the other channel. In fact he recommended that his own viewers go check it out and subscribe if they aren't already. He gave you evidence based information that countered information that was relayed by the other channel. By "relayed" I'm saying it was repeated with little to no research done or evidence to support the information given. None of this is that big of a deal. People repeat things they've heard all the time. Why does it anger you if someone counters that information with evidence based statements? Debates are a good thing. Stop getting so offended so easily.
Lol completely agree. For the record, the thumbs up percentage is over 98%. It's just the vocal minority speaking their mind. They'll feel better once they get it off their chest. :)
My tire guy put in metal valve stems with my last refill. I had actually lost some fluid through a broken valve stem. Not sure if broken in the woods or deteriorated by rimguard. Just good insurance since I had also broken one when removing a wheel weight.
I have a 55 massey that sat in a field for 20 years. Tires had calcium chloride in them. Couldn't believe it didn't rot out the tires. They are still on tractor now.
Thank you, and please don't stop making your videos. I may not buy or use things that you have for sale, but we can learn and that is always a big help. I checked on some of the liquid that goes in the tires, and it was around $250 for the rear tires on our BX. We might get some one of these days but for now we are using 2 old log chains wrapped around a bar that goes on the arms of the 3 point hitch. 1 chain is about 40 feet long 1/2-inch chain the other is 5/8 chain around 25 feet long. It's not the best, it is not the most weight but for about $60 it works for us. Thank you.
I have a farmer friend that works about 6,000 acres to support a dairy operation. For years they've used numerous tractors for many different functions.
He told me that they now only use wheel weights. If you have a flat tire it compounds the problem. Any liquid in a tire is going to cause deterioration of the rim and rubber. With weights you don't need special equipment and in the event of destroying a tire with weights you don't lose the ballast product.
Sure makes sense to me because back in the day I'd lost a rim or two besides being at the mercy of the tire company's time frame.
Wheel weights don't evaporate. ( :
I've heard of many wheel weights cracking and becoming unusable, so that's a possibility.
@@GoodWorksTractors Doesn't hurt to put a wrench on'em while servicing. Never lost one myself or know of anyone's failing. But I've turned an axle on a key-way from lack of (rookie) checking tightness. Have a Happy New Year.
I have a lx3310 and I work in the bush and do a lot on snow plow and blow. So I don't see the need to add weight other than accessories. I think it's overkill. Plus you lose comfort
Yeah I’ve heard that the rim guard is not compatible with rubber valve stems because it will break down the glue in the rubber valve stems. It won’t cause any corrosion, but you could have a valve stem failure and a flat.
Supposedly it’s the glue in the valve stem.
The valve stem is a small, but very important technical item that I learned about tire ballast.
Not sure why you stated you have a "bone to pick" with Mike Morgan. You took a deeper dive into tire ballast. Another viewer gave you the idea to do this. He didn't endorse anything, he simply went with the recommendation of his shop and communicated what they put in.
Bone?
Great video as usual …I also replaced my Kubota last fall and when they filled the back tires with Rim Gaurd, they replaced my valves as well
Glad to hear it Vaughn, have a good one!
I have a solution that 100% guarantees no corrosion from ballast - cast iron weights on a real tractor. These new oversized lawn mowers are junk that will be sitting in the landfill while my equipment will still be going strong.
You nailed it! Its a air vs liquid...100% correct! You explained it PERFECTLY!
I`ve run rim guard for many years, installed stainless stems, never once had an issue, ever. Who ever told Mike Morgan that line of BS needs to be educated. I commented on Mike Morgans channel about it as well. Not sure if he ever responded back, but i did tell him that his tire shop doesn`t know what they are talking about.
Does the tire have to come off the rim to change over to metal valve stems?
That is a good question, not sure if the answer.
No it just needs the one bead broke down off the rim
I believe that the liquid can be HFCS or CS. This liquid is approximately 11 lb/galon. Better to be used in ag machine/ tire and not in human belly.
I had that issue with the valves on my 1025r. I had to replace the stem valve with new ones. It’s not RimGuard . My issues was the dealer used the wrong valve. I had no lie issues once I had the valve replaced with the correct ones.
There ya go, thanks for sharing Martin. Sorry you had to go through that.
Thanks for this. We are talking about using liquid ballast but I am sure we have the 'air only' valve stems.
Happy to help!
FWIW, my local JD dealer switched to Bioguard from Rimguard for ease of handling and cleanup. BTW, I stopped watching the other guy because his channel was mostly about product marketing.
I think Mr Morgan's dealer just makes more profit on the bio stuff than they do with Rim Guard. So that's what they convince people to get.
Lol, maybe so.
Just asking. Would it be better to just get wheel weights that bolt on to the rim? I’ve read of what the products cost with new valve stems and I can’t help to think maybe wheel weights are the way to go. Please comment.
Wheel weights are the most expensive form of weight on a pound basis.
There used to be a dry tire ballast called “Led” that was blown in. If that is still on the market, that would be another choice.
So are all the RimGuard dealers informed/ educated that they shouldn’t install it in tires without proper valve stem’s?
I have RimGuard and fortunately have the correct valve stem’s. Maybe I missed it but I don’t remember seeing a warning or suggestion on the RimGuard web page about the type of valve stem needed. Maybe it should be made more obvious.
RimGuard isn't sold direct to consumers. It is only sold through dealers that they sign up and train. So, the training is done with the installing dealer and technicians. That's the odd thing about what Mike's tire dealer is telling him. They should know better.
How much more of a disclaimer would make you happy? Mike said..."take it for what it's worth...he said, she said kinda thing...I don't know the whole story, but we are trying out Bio Ballast. I don't know about Rimguard. I don't want to bash a product or anything like that if I don't have any personal experience..."
Responsibility for the words that come out of your mouth. Amazing how many folks weren't taught that lesson.
Tire industry guy here… First-love your videos. But, you’re interchanging the terms valve core and valve stem. These are completely different and distinct parts. I will say I would always recommend beat juice. I use it in my own tractor. But I can tell you the beat juice does get gunky and can clog a valve core causing leaking. What should you do? Throw an air chuck on there and blow it out. Or replace the core. It’s easy. You can even do it yourself l. And if you do t want to; haul that tractor down to the shop that filled your tires and tell them to replace it. Takes a matter of moments depending on how full your tire is. If they want to charge you…. Find a new shop.
First, I not only watch your channel, but Mike’s also. In this case I like your approach Information and data vs. the tire guy said. I know several guys that run rim guard and have no complaints. However, I never thought to look or ask them about valve stems… I didn’t even know there was a air/liquid stem. A friend has been bugging me to get the tires loaded on the old green beast so I have been doing a wee bit of research on getting the tires filled. Just looked out and checked….. I’ll have to replace the rubber valve stems. Keep up the videos… they’re great.
Thanks for watching Matthew!