Excellently done. I'm a teacher and specialist in my field and you, my friend, are both a great teacher and a woodworking specialist of the best caliber. Subscribed today......
Sir, I too have done the same (almost exact) experiment and reached the same results. Multiple large holes are the best solution for capturing blade dust . Slow cuts just short of burning the wood really helps also, more time to suck the dust down and out.
Great video! Nice way to take dust collection on a table saw to the next level, especially using experimentation to try and fine tune the design. Could you use your original insert as a template and a flush trim bearing guided bit to clean up the final dimensions of your rough cut new insert?
I have an old craftsman saw, but don't know why I couldn't block the back off and put some holes in my throat plate like yours and suck air in thru the holes and out the bottom of the cabinet that I have built a box on. The majority of the dust falls to the bottom but sucking air in thru the top might get almost all the dust created. Thanks for the idea to upgrade mine.
Did I miss an explanation of why you drilled no holes on the other side of the slot? Wouldn’t “Swiss cheesing” the entire plate give the most dust extraction?
No you didn't, I omitted holes on that side due to it being almost always covered by the timber being cut, although there may well be some milage in a few just to catch some of the dust at the end of the cut. Good point. 👍
spiffing vid my man and good your referenced the Big D from Hooked on Wood. I do think that cutting crosscuts along the width will help with the airflow though but, just as Dennis from HOW mentions, this may well be more aesthetic than much good! But I think that the black is better than the green - but I never see the black on sale in the UK.
Nicely done. However, when working with MDF you need to remember that the MDF dust is highly toxic! Always wear a respirator or a good dust mask. Good dust extraction is no substitute and the most dangerous dust is what you can't see. Be safe always.
I have never heard the words you spoke at 9:55 .. it sounded like "navia supsal" ?? what does it mean? I get it that it is a small measure but what is the origin?
Hi Donald, two separate comments. The first ‘a Navi’ a comment from my Gran I believe, she used to say ‘Just a navi more please’ I think referring to a drop of milk in her tea. The second I’m sure you will of heard before ‘Soupcon’ I think its French, pronounced ‘souson’ again meaning just a little. (I hope) 😁
Thanks for the great video. Your Jet saw looks familiar to me and I believe mine is quite similar. Did you make any effort to seal up your cabinet between the cast top and the sheet metal box? What about the arc slot for the raise/lower hand wheel? I'm considering both ideas and wanted to know if you saw improvements in the case you did the same.
This is something I must do and will follow your/Dennis’ design. One query, why didn’t you raise the blade through the insert rather than rip a slot and then glue a filler piece in?
Hi Andy, two reasons. 1. The MDF sits too low, the blade actually protrudes through it. 2. Even if I had cut it down I just don't like the idea, fills me with dread! 👍
Use the fence or magnets to hold it down, then raise the blade through it. My saw stop needs an 8" blade to clear that insert before cutting begins otherwise you are trying push the thing down onto a spinning blade. No Good! If no 8" blade for regular and thin kerf then I would do it his way so I can still count to ten. Even with SawStop its no go for me
Do you find that the Festool Track Saw can replace the Table Saw. Maybe not 100% maybe saw 85%. I have a Grizzly table saw around 30 years old with the same fence as yours. Your thoughts? Kevin
Hi Kevin, now that's a question. With planning and a few other support jigs etc then maybe you could, but it wouldn't be as quick and easy to make 'a cut' as it is with the table saw. IMO.
Great discussion topic! Working through this myself with a new track saw table setup with cross-cut track fixed at 90* to the table's long edge, stop blocks in T-tracks for repeatable cuts & edge reference and replaceable sacrificial strip below the blade's cut path. It's a very nice system with the following short comings: 1. Slower workflow than table saw. 2. No dado stack capability. 3. Feels more clunky in use than table saw. 4. No ability to do box joints & beveled edge/vertical panel cuts, and nearly all miter gauge functions would require special jigs. 5. Repeatable rip cuts still require sacrificial board beneath and use of parallel track guides (it's a hassle switching between rip & cross cuts). 6. Try as I might, I never get the two 55" tracks to join up & stay perfectly straight for long rip cuts (I.e. They always end up askew at the joint with use, which makes a slightly delta-shaped rip cut with ~1/16 to 3/32" deviation at its peak.) **In theory there's no difference between practice and theory. But in practice there is.
Wrong! EVERYONE should ALWAYS paint their ZC inserts YELLOW, which contrasts the color of blood, so you can pull your hand away faster in case of injury. ..jk Colors won’t save you. Proper safety precautions, undivided attention, and push tools will go much farther in keeping that gooey red stuff contained.
Well done! I have never thought of this. I was always happy with the job just the slot being so close does. Now you’ve ruined that for me! 😃I hope the sarcasm is noted.
Are you suggesting some sort of simplicity? This is no place for simplicity. This is a place of high precision and perhaps needless complexity! Begone cretin!
If the saw dust is getting on top of the table due to the blade not tracking straight, then adding collection holes only solves the problem when slicing tiny trimming cuts off the board. 98% of the time the holes are covered in normal ripping cuts. I don't really see the point in adding the holes.
Thank you...the hole positions make great sense...... especially the three past the cut where the blade throws most of the dust.....Thank you.
Hi John, you're welcome. 👍
in the process of making inserts for my table saw. you help me same time in narrowing down my overall choices. thanks again
Hi Tony, thank you. 👍👍
Thank you sir for the tests on those inserts. New inserts will be produced this weekend in my shop.
This was a great watch! Learn something new everyday!
Thanks!!!
Thank you. 👍
Excellently done. I'm a teacher and specialist in my field and you, my friend, are both a great teacher and a woodworking specialist of the best caliber. Subscribed today......
Hi D A, Praise indeed, thank you kind Sir. You've made my day. 😁😎👍
Sir, I too have done the same (almost exact) experiment and reached the same results. Multiple large holes are the best solution for capturing blade dust . Slow cuts just short of burning the wood really helps also, more time to suck the dust down and out.
That is a great improvement on dust collection. Now you need to make one with the holes on the opposite side of the slot for use with a miter gauge
Hi Michael, funny you should say that, I was using the mitre sled yesterday. Extraction was minimal to say the least!👍
Very well thought out!
Great job sir. Kudos for giving credit to Dennis HOW as well.
Hi Tolica, thank you kindly! 👍
Thank you for giving credit to Dennis of Hooked on Wood. I love the green mdf 😃
Great video! Nice way to take dust collection on a table saw to the next level, especially using experimentation to try and fine tune the design.
Could you use your original insert as a template and a flush trim bearing guided bit to clean up the final dimensions of your rough cut new insert?
I see no reason why not. 👍
Thank you sir, just the answer I have been looking for.
Great experiments !!!
Hi Joe, thank you. 😁👍
Use a Festool Domino to make your holes? Gonna do this on mine.
Will let you know if dust extraction is better.
I have an old craftsman saw, but don't know why I couldn't block the back off and put some holes in my throat plate like yours and suck air in thru the holes and out the bottom of the cabinet that I have built a box on. The majority of the dust falls to the bottom but sucking air in thru the top might get almost all the dust created. Thanks for the idea to upgrade mine.
Hi Joe, you're welcome. 👍
I did step out for a sec so maybe I missed it but did you say how you determined which was best for dust extraction?
Great video Graham. Like your link to Dennis who I also follow along with Rob Cosman and Peter Parfit.
Hi Barry, thank you. Yes great channels all three, I also watch them. 😊👍
Fantastic
Got my sub just for use of the word "Spiffing!"
Now thats a comment that made me smile. 😊👌😎
why wasnt the insert laid into the table slot for the SAW slit.. and "RAISE IT UP"?
Hi Joseph, the MDF is too thick, also that method scares me a little. 👍
Did I miss an explanation of why you drilled no holes on the other side of the slot? Wouldn’t “Swiss cheesing” the entire plate give the most dust extraction?
No you didn't, I omitted holes on that side due to it being almost always covered by the timber being cut, although there may well be some milage in a few just to catch some of the dust at the end of the cut. Good point. 👍
spiffing vid my man and good your referenced the Big D from Hooked on Wood. I do think that cutting crosscuts along the width will help with the airflow though but, just as Dennis from HOW mentions, this may well be more aesthetic than much good! But I think that the black is better than the green - but I never see the black on sale in the UK.
Hi Sellantoto, I agree the black looks awesome but like you I can't find it. 👍
I'm german and I have not all understand what you have explaned. What ist the sence ofe this holes/slots left from the sawblade ?
Hi Jurgen, they are to allow the dust extraction under the saw table to remove the chippings optimally.
Nicely done. However, when working with MDF you need to remember that the MDF dust is highly toxic! Always wear a respirator or a good dust mask. Good dust extraction is no substitute and the most dangerous dust is what you can't see.
Be safe always.
Guessing you can lead this horse to water, but...
I have never heard the words you spoke at 9:55 .. it sounded like "navia supsal" ?? what does it mean? I get it that it is a small measure but what is the origin?
Hi Donald, two separate comments. The first ‘a Navi’ a comment from my Gran I believe, she used to say ‘Just a navi more please’ I think referring to a drop of milk in her tea. The second I’m sure you will of heard before ‘Soupcon’ I think its French, pronounced ‘souson’ again meaning just a little. (I hope) 😁
@@GTWoodshop about a gnat's knacker smaller than a bee's bollock I would suggest...
Thanks for the great video. Your Jet saw looks familiar to me and I believe mine is quite similar. Did you make any effort to seal up your cabinet between the cast top and the sheet metal box? What about the arc slot for the raise/lower hand wheel? I'm considering both ideas and wanted to know if you saw improvements in the case you did the same.
Yes, I sealed everywher I could to increase extraction.
Thanks for getting back so quickly. I'll give that a try on my saw.@@GTWoodshop
Valuable. Thanks.
Thanks Mark.
This is something I must do and will follow your/Dennis’ design.
One query, why didn’t you raise the blade through the insert rather than rip a slot and then glue a filler piece in?
Hi Andy, two reasons. 1. The MDF sits too low, the blade actually protrudes through it. 2. Even if I had cut it down I just don't like the idea, fills me with dread! 👍
@@GTWoodshop I can certainly understand that. 😬 I have to check everything about 4 times before I take a cut on the table saw. 😊
@@iamthereforeimustbe Ahmen to that, measure once, cut four times. 😁
Use the fence or magnets to hold it down, then raise the blade through it. My saw stop needs an 8" blade to clear that insert before cutting begins otherwise you are trying push the thing down onto a spinning blade. No Good!
If no 8" blade for regular and thin kerf then I would do it his way so I can still count to ten. Even with SawStop its no go for me
Wouldn't the riving knife need to be removed to enable that.
Do you find that the Festool Track Saw can replace the Table Saw. Maybe not 100% maybe saw 85%. I have a Grizzly table saw around 30 years old with the same fence as yours. Your thoughts? Kevin
Hi Kevin, now that's a question. With planning and a few other support jigs etc then maybe you could, but it wouldn't be as quick and easy to make 'a cut' as it is with the table saw. IMO.
Great discussion topic! Working through this myself with a new track saw table setup with cross-cut track fixed at 90* to the table's long edge, stop blocks in T-tracks for repeatable cuts & edge reference and replaceable sacrificial strip below the blade's cut path. It's a very nice system with the following short comings:
1. Slower workflow than table saw.
2. No dado stack capability.
3. Feels more clunky in use than table saw.
4. No ability to do box joints & beveled edge/vertical panel cuts, and nearly all miter gauge functions would require special jigs.
5. Repeatable rip cuts still require sacrificial board beneath and use of parallel track guides (it's a hassle switching between rip & cross cuts).
6. Try as I might, I never get the two 55" tracks to join up & stay perfectly straight for long rip cuts (I.e. They always end up askew at the joint with use, which makes a slightly delta-shaped rip cut with ~1/16 to 3/32" deviation at its peak.)
**In theory there's no difference between practice and theory. But in practice there is.
You should always paint your table saw insert plates RED the red is a safety indicator letting you know your close to the blade.
Wrong! EVERYONE should ALWAYS paint their ZC inserts YELLOW, which contrasts the color of blood, so you can pull your hand away faster in case of injury.
..jk Colors won’t save you. Proper safety precautions, undivided attention, and push tools will go much farther in keeping that gooey red stuff contained.
I got one word for you and this project. 3d printer.
Lol commented before watching the whole of the video
Cheers Sam. 👍
Well done! I have never thought of this. I was always happy with the job just the slot being so close does. Now you’ve ruined that for me! 😃I hope the sarcasm is noted.
Hi DumDumDev, absolutely, in fact my apologies for bursting the bubble. 🤣🤣🤣
Why not just tape over the slot and replace when blade height decreases?
Hi Tom, not sure I understand your question, could you expand a bit pls? Ta. 👍
Are you suggesting some sort of simplicity? This is no place for simplicity. This is a place of high precision and perhaps needless complexity! Begone cretin!
If the saw dust is getting on top of the table due to the blade not tracking straight, then adding collection holes only solves the problem when slicing tiny trimming cuts off the board. 98% of the time the holes are covered in normal ripping cuts.
I don't really see the point in adding the holes.
I didn't mention the blade not tracking true.
@@GTWoodshop
I did.
No i don't know what 21 mil is, can you say that in thou? An imperial nation can't even measure in imperial mesurments.
Honestly, 14 mm would have been just as good just more holes but more side support 14mm or about 1/2"