Extreme Budget Engine Rebuild- Part 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- DIY Home mechanic rebuilding an engine on a budget. This part covers how to know if you need a rebuild, guaranteed minimum expenses you will have, teardown, and how to measure for wear on the bottom end to determine if parts can be reused or if new part replacement, or machine shop work will be required and what it will cost. Strategy is to develop a complete budget needed for the rebuild before investing any money in the project at all.
Part 2 is here: www.youtube.com...
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Just recently got my first Haynes manual and it told me to go to a mechanic. I'm sticking with Chilton's
Chilton's are done by Haynes now. If you're working on anything from the 90s and newer get the factory service manual you will save money.
Really wish you wouldn't be so negative to those who leave negative comments. It really doesn't behoove your personality to respond in that manner. Just ignore them and don't let it affect your videos. There are 100 times more people that actually love your videos than attempt to bring you down. You and many other DIY'ers on TH-cam are extremely methodical in your knowledge, preparation, and execution. Don't lower yourself to their level. You're better than that. Just my opinion. Love your videos. Wish you would put out a new one every day actually. I would watch every single one. Stay positive!!!
I was going to say the same thing. Throwing mud gets everybody dirty, not in a good way, (grin).
duly noted, will take into consideration.
And you can't win. There are simply too many that are "uninformed", and sometimes we are among them, as life tests our humility.
Corncob Bob I know, they are!
spelunkerd Of course. but it is frustrating for those that are actually turning the bolts an nuts to rebuild. There is no excuse for bad manners. Some people make money on these video's, ( have no problem with that ) to share what they know for a fact. I've already made a rep. for leaving negative comments on many engine builders channel. I would say, leave the builder alone, at least let that builder prove or debunk his own logic.
This was my moms first truck, she was born in 65 and this was the first truck my grandfather bought brand new!! Omg this is amazing! Thank you so so much for posting, you are and have been my favorite DIY mechanic. 😊✌🏼️
No kidding?? Thats so cool! Well you can identify with the owner of this truck then on the sentimental value!
You'll be glad to know the truck ultimately got a replacement engine from a shop and last I heard from owner is it runs but had some hesitation on acceleration issues. Maybe we'll see it again someday.
+Schrodingers Box +Schrodingers Box Maybe you will! It was a nice thing to see, haven't seen one in a long time. Thanks again, really enjoyed it 😊
Matt shows that he has a logical and practical mind, and knows what engine facts matter. He's confirming a lot of what I've learned about engine rebuilding over the past couple years, summarizing it very clearly. Not sure I'd trust that tray method though--I might drop it. I put the parts in ziploc bags that I label with their location, though I'm planning on getting some parts cabinets with large drawers to do the job.
Awesome! I took this approach when rebuilding a POS ford 3.8L 6 cylinder. My goal was to make it a very usable and reliable ride. I spent about $300 total by only replacing what needed to be replaced (all new bearings and rings, gaskets, etc) and only getting the heads done by a shop for $115. Note, I did mic everything to determine wear. Ran like a top. The proof? No oil burning, no funny noises, pass CA smog with better numbers than when it was new. BTW, love the Fod FE. Very well supported aftermarket parts from Edelbrock. Love the ADD and Haynes manual comments, lol. Too many "experts" on here. Subscribed pal!
I think the easiest way to think of oil pressure is to take a leaf from the hydraulics book: the load sets the pressure. The larger the bearing clearances are from spec, the less load there will be and the lower the oil pressure. Great channel by the way. Its good to see someone using logic to find a diagnosis and not doing a spray and pray. Greetings from Australia
i also think it lines up very well with electricity: less resistance = more current/flow = more voltage/pressure drop. more resistance = less current/flow = less voltage/pressure drop
Totally!! It’s a great parallel!
This is the best beginners guide to rebuilding engines.
Never mind the negative comments from the "know it all better than you do crowd".
You do a perfect job.
"I don't want to do calculations on cost. I want to see bolts move and parts come off." lol Spot on assessment. Between that and the shots at the Haynes manual jockeys, you may have my new favorite channel.
+Havok577 Lol glad you get it hahaha!!
This is one of the best automotive videos I've ever watched. You are concise, detailed, informative, and entertaining.
I'm looking at rebuilding my 4AGE possibly due to low oil pressure at idle. Tonight I'm going to be dropping the oil pan to check for specs of metal from the main bearings, and check the crankshaft journals for wear. I'll certainly be watching all of your videos to get some more information on the bare minimum I need to do, and plan any additional things I would like to also have done.
Thank you for taking the time to film, edit, and upload these videos!
Man I know this video is almost a couple years old now, but I love how you respond to the negative youtube users whom have never cracked a bolt loose with their fruit-scented, moisturized hands, featuring fresh mani pedi's.
I have to say I like your style in this video, its the first of yours I've watched and I'm thoroughly entertained.
I have an itch to rebuild another engine I have laying around, however I don't have the "proper" place to do so.
Everything I do is outside in the elements. If I'm not standing in dirt, its either grass or gravel.
I'd kill for a nice shop floor, but life is life. I've rebuilt several engines outside and they all are still going as the years tick by.
The key is trash bags and duct tape, you can never have enough. Ever.
+ImJustinAndIknowIt Thanks man. We seem to agree- ignorance must be challenged, not tolerated.
Couldn't find a used engine for my ride that didn't cost way more than doing a rebuild myself. Machine shop on block and head was $500, master rebuild kit from engine tech was $400, other random stuff (that didn't come with a used engine anyways) was almost $400. Cheapest used one I could find at the time was $1700 before shipping.
The first one you can do yourself as well as all the others. You don't even have to take the engine out.
Give this man a thumbs up and show him that WAY more people like his professional approach than he realizes.
i have no problem with your explanation Sir i learnt a lot even though ive had a go in the past with a 351 cleveland engine here in Australia for a 1971 xy ford here its very easy to make mistakes we must take notes and check things thoroughly you cant mess with an engine rebulid thanks a lot enjoyed your video
Mate I love the commentary and the subject. A no crap humorous approach. Just bought a T bird with a 390 so looking fwd to getting into it. Thanks for this is fantastic!
I started this series again after learning more about engine work and ordering parts/tools with my financial aid check I was waiting for.
It makes such difference to do things yourself both on the pockets and on your "brain muscles." The money saved, tools purchased for future use, and the knowledge gained is great and you can use that money to go towards parts instead and spend less than paying for at least one tow and the labor, parts markup, etc.
I'm planning on doing something frowned upon, but I think it'll work out pulling the engine from the bottom (with the car lifted but not with a hoist) and getting it on an engine stand, then reversing the process for reassembly, obviously planning everything out beforehand. That way that I can check the cams and crankshaft instead of risking something being/going bad and needing to buy $200 worth of gaskets again.
Pulling the engine from the bottom is a viable strategy and in fact on some cars is the only way to do it. My trans Am with LS engine is an example- you remove the car from the engine, not the engine from the car.
Haynes is a good tool if your restoring an old truck from the ground up. It's also a good source of information for novice DIY. Also, Haynes is an old fella mechanic posting info for profit just like yourself on youtube. He's also got his way of doing things just like yourself. Anyhow, I've watched these videos years ago and like your content.
Fantastic Matt. Lots of great tips. I have one for you for a budget build or not. I gave up years ago on the spray cans of carb cleaner or any type of penetrating fluid, for a 50/50 mix of acetone and trany fluid in a pump oil can. Works better and low cost.
Great video ... Don't let the wannabe ..haynes ... Backyard mechanic get you down! My first week of mechanic school opened my eyes! I now source out factory manuals wherever possible and give my haynes manuals to my newbie mechanic friends if they need them!
I like how you have a plan or list to guide you. Somethings need to be non-negotiable not only on engine building but on life choices itself.
Hey Matt,
I really enjoyed your videos on the 352 rebuild. I just got finished rebuilding a 390 so your vids helped a lot.
Thanks for taking the time to make and upload them. I know there is a lot of work involved in making them and I appreciate it.
I have a factory service manual so no Haynes books for me! Ha Ha.
Thanks again
Awesome video. I can appreciate your humor in dealing with those that annoy you. Thanks for taking the time to post this. It is very useful.
I would say to keep parts until you get their replacements, if for no other reason to confirm that the parts you got are correct
I know this is an old video but it's hilarious to watch you tuber's progress from the "wanting everyone to subscribe" stage to the "f-you, I'm doing it my way" stage! great video and great info at the start.
I wish this guy was my apprenticeship teacher! So good love your videos, keep up the great work I am learning more on your channel then at tafe (apprenticeship school)
I am impressed how a young guy like yourself has so much knowledge and experience in the ins and outs of car mechanics. This said by a non-mechanic who is interested in mechanics only.
I am 62 years old, retired from medicine, and wished I career in mechanics instead. Oh, well, can't reverse time.
Actually 22 years old. Good stuff man. Keep up the videos.
Wow this is a great video. Schrodingers box you are obviously a good mechanic and I will tell you Sir that you are a great teacher!
I will try to learn and do some work on engines somehow.
Thank you.
This is very helpful. I have NO manual, but I have a seized 272 yblock. I’ve tried soaking it in acetone and atf and that didn’t work. I’m going to use this video as one of my guides for taking the top end apart to get to the cylinders to see if the motor is salvageable.
Took the top end apart today. Your guidance was excellent!
You did a very good job - Im a total noob, but want to start learning - Seen many videos now, but yours got deep into the real world of engines and possible issues associated with them. Not just a crate build with everything brand new. Keep making them :D
I've never had a haynes manual, but have heard people recommend them for general stuff about your vehicle. Honestly, I havent turned many wrenches either. But whatever, I'm just hear to learn. I like hearing how others do things. This video is actually informative, if you gets past his bias against haynes manuals.
Hi... Matt I am a big fan of your videos... I don't bother with the negative and you shouldn't either.. I think your videos are the best I have found on TH-cam and I watch them over and over again.. You take your time and show detail and explain unlike others who are commercially supported I know that you are doing this out of your own personal interest and enjoyment of the craft and I am honored to learn new things from you... Please keep the great videos coming and your head up and be proud of the value of what you are sharing with aspiring mechanics like me.. no if i can just find a good deal on craigslist I cant wait to get my hands dirty...shoot I might even share a video with you of my efforts,, thanks again.. Robert
Thanks Robert! I would love to see a video of your efforts. Glad you found the channel!
Thanks for a good video. And for your engine build you are probably right as regards to putting the pushrods, lifters and lifter arms back to the same place. But I however feel like commenting this has to do with wearing pattern, or not. I just assembled a motor last spring, and pulled it apart again in the fall after 1000 miles on it. There were less to none wear patterns on my pushrods, lifters or rocker arms. Thus, by that time there was no need to put them back in the exact same place or order still. I myself have never had any problem with that, or heard any other person on the internet who have had it, as long as there are no real wearing pattern to it already. As long as they are straight.
Good to see a guy who loves his work.
Technical, helpful and straight to the point.
Loved all the advices on what to and not to do, avoid focusing on trolls, they don't deserve attention.
Liked and subscribed.
Love this guy... He grumpy but hes honest.. He explains everything. I hate when machanics with swollen heads leave out detail.
Only video or anything that i found that someone talks about the repercussions of replacing main bearings without having parts machined. Iv heard of it and had my theories but you gave me confirmation. Thank you. I like you scotty and eric my top 3 car shows.
Great video, I'm also in the process of rebuilding a 428 FE and after watching this video for the second time I noticed that both head gaskets were installed incorrectly as the big coolant passages should be oriented towards the rear of the engine and not the front as they were, so I suspect that this engine also had cooling issues. By the way I also use power tools when I disassemble my engines and never had a problem with that.
+Joel Santos Yeah assembling is a different matter but disassembling is not a problem for air or power tools. Especially on this engine- aluminum engines require more care but you're not going to damage an iron head and block with air tools
Guy works hard and explains very well, you just got another subscriber.
Thank you for a very good tutorial, I am planning on using it as a guide on rebuilding a Studebaker V8.
Thanks
Matt great video, I just getting ready to do a rebuild myself just pulled it out today. Ford 2000 F-150 4.6L , Oil pick-up tube clogged with debris from timing chain guides. Damage to left side over head cam. Lot of good info its been along time since I've been in a car motor. Maybe I'll shoot some video of my advanture
I got a question for you if you have time. You kind of covered this line of issues midway through the well done video. Before you ask my mechanical knowledge, I used to work on F-15 fighter jets so I'm quite mechanically inclined however I don't have a ton of vehicle motor knowledge. I've removed and replaced bad motors, changed head gaskets, and few other things but only here and there and only certain types of vehicles.
I'm currently working on a Chinese "go-kart" (as it's label, but it's closer the a mix between a polaris rzr and a dune buggy)
it's a powertrain is a knock off of a Suzuki 3-cyl 800cc EFI engine and a 4 speed manual transmission.
The problem I'm having is a couple of things listed below:
-Hard to start, sounds like a dying battery in a sense but it will go back and forth between trying to turn over and straining
-When it does crank it smokes profusely. White smoke, black liquid (assuming oil not water/sut mix)
-Limited power/sputtering. I figure this is from oil in the cylinders.
I think all the problems could be caused by the oil and that the piston rings are worn; however, my friend seems the think it's the valve stem seals. What I want to know is, what test would you recommend and in what order to solve where this issue is coming from. There is no "Hayne's" manual or anything of the sort for this buggy, much less specs for the exact engine for things such as compression psi, etc. I'm about to call the US based distributor to see what specs I can get. But until then I'm kind of in the dark. Thanks for any and all help in advanced.
Hi Claude. Based on the description I agree with your friend's assessment. The description you give sounds very much like the engine is overcoming a hydrolock condition until the oil in the cylinders clear.
The most likely cause of oil in the cylinders would be valve seals- the oil would leak into the cylinders during times the cart is not operating. Contrast this with worn rings where the excessive oil would be during operation so it does not explain the hard starting and billowing smoke with startup.
To confirm this, you could do a compression test but without knowing the normal specs, it would be useless (unless you found a significant difference between cylinders). This would help rule out worn rings, To confirm the valve stem leak,allow engine to sit overnight then remove the plugs and turn the engine over- if oil shoots out of the plugs it is confirmed oil leakage into the cylinders and barring other possible entry sources valve seals would be indicated.
Not knowing if this is a water cooled engine (I never worked on a go cart but usually they are just lawnmower engines and thus air cooled) but if it is water cooled, it could be coolant entering the engine- e.g. blown head gasket.
The good news is you can replace the valve seals without removing the head if you confirm that's your issue.
Yes, it's water cooled. The motor and transmission is used in some cars and vans in some countries across the pond. Although, I can rule out it being water ...because... what my friend calls a "freeze plug" is either missing or has rusted out. I had it running just for a moment and thought "oh shit, I haven't checked it's coolant levels!" It was bone dry so i rushed and poured some water into the radiator and it poured all over my feet out the side of the block. As for smoking at start up, your diagnostic is sound and solid but wouldn't the smoke clear up after running, because it continuously smokes just as bad. With all that said, thank you so much for the detail response, so much more than I thought I would receive.
Claude Garrett Yes by my theory the smoke would be worst at startup and improve, but leaking valve seals would still leak during operation as well. It's just worse at startup because they also leak during non engine operation.
It's of course possible to have worn seals AND compression/oil rings don't forget.
Yea, I'm just hoping it's one or the other... Finacially speaking, trying to restore an 86 Bronco and this kart is next to impossible and taking it's toll on my brain at that lol.
Thanks again for your time man, thumbed up and subscribed.
Claude Garrett Seems to me the most logical thing for you to do is put a F15 jet engine in the cart and truck.
I think this is the best youtube video that explains well about overhauling an engine..
We do need the manual btw to measure certain stuff like torque and diameter, and clearance and stuff like that..
Without a good video explaining it ..
It is far useless too
I love this guy, typical american mechanic.
I love your commentary. You just say what so many others want to say. And I love that!
+kaos havoc Hahaha I have no filter.
Well, in the middle of this 'budget rebuild' series because I saw the title and wondered to myself, "How does that work?" Looks like it is much like I expected so far, it doesn't. You have earned my subscription.
thanks! actually it can work but this truck was just not a good candidate.
"i wana see bolts move i wana see parts come off" - been there done that, learned it the hard way in my younger days, hell i still feel that way from time to time lol i like your vids, subbed
never done a rebuilt but good to know thank you for ur experts and thought on the job its always good to know
hahahaha dude, the passive aggressiveness against ppl who skip the boring part of ur video is priceless :’) keep it up 🤙
ty for being realistic on rebuilds and the complex proceedures involved.
What's up Stallsmith!!! you remind me of an old mechanic I once knew...anyway build on...I'm interested...your knowledge is right up there with the best of them and I have known a hell of a lot of mechanics...
Thanks for all this good knowledge my brother you are changing people's lives many blessings!!!!
Don’t let the haters get to you so much man, makes you sound a wee bit whiney
I do what i want thank you.
10 4
This video is very useful. I'm trying to lurn for my own car . I'm swapping in a second hand engine into my xtype. I've got one from a low mileage grandad speck auto. so it won't have had the hard time the one in my manual sport has had .
Then I plan to rebuild the original engine massively upgraded piper cams oversized shells etc . I've never done anything like this before but I think with enough research and just being anul enough il be able to do it .
Thanks you video has been helpful.
This video is f*ing great. Any real mechanic 100% understands the 'Haynes Jockey' comment(s). Great informative video! I appreciate the guidance on how/what to look for when preparing for a rebuild.
Awesome rebuild video! You discussed great deal of information. I hope the next part will be same way excellent as this first part was. Great job done. Regards,
Steve Rob
I am a 56-year-old woman and I wanted to see how it was rebuilt remade because I don’t because my mechanics my husband does on everything but I’m learning all the sounds and everything but you break it down for anybody you don’t understand and thank you for telling me I can’t do it my myself my hand won’t let me no more I won’t even attempt it but thank you very much very understandable Thumbs up
atten to detail was what i was first taught it took me a few engines to understand truly what he meant .
attention to detail is like a passing comment but its vital to engine building .
A good check to do when you have the cylinder heads off is feel need the top of the cylinder wall for wear.. this doesn't really matter if you're re-boring the walls but it will give you a good indication if it's going to be worth it or not. Or oversized pistons / rings etc. If you run your nail near the top you can sometimes feel a lip where the piston rings don't quite make it to the top of the cylinder wall like the crown of the piston does, this causes the wear up to a certain point and not beyond.
Thanks!
This kind of tied all my random bits of knowledge together.
I am now confident that I want to attempt an engine rebuild.
It's one of the best experiences you will have. Go for it!
Thank you for making a how to vid on engine basics. Paint and body has always been easy for me but motors mostly elude me. Best regards.
Eloquent, informative, precise. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you, Sir.
Such a great job! Nice camera stand and great audio! Bravo! And bravo on the clear explanations and discussion!!
Many thanks my friend. It takes a lot of effort to produce these. I know many people are better videographers than I, but I do my best. It's nice to see someone appreciate it!
these fe motors are great !! I have a 1968 360 fe and it is a great motor !!
Your videos rock man, you'd be a great Auto Shop teacher.
I liked this guy as soon as he put the Haynes jerks in their place. I could work with this dude.
if you actually read your comments i just want you to know you are my favorite youtuber.
love the attitude, im definitely coming back to see more of your videos
I read them!!
we are going to be best friends!
Daniel Briese Bromance is in the air!
I've been working on engines since I was 14 years old. Went to college and at 23 years old I am the youngest person I know who can successfully rebuild a carburetor.
You have shown the internet that you don't have to have a mechanical background to show a little common sense and fix problems yourself.
It's not bromance, it's respect. Rock on, brother.
Great video dude. The fact that you have taken the time and effort to do this video is terrific. And to me any engine rebuild video is enjoyable. Thanks for your effort. cheers.
u r incredibly helpful and a gifted explainer. I also like your style, you're articulate like a pointy-head but also know all the hands-on stuff. Big ups..!!! ^_^ hi from Calif.
Like a pointy-head lol!! Love it haha!
thanks or posting this dude im rebuilding a 65 gaalxie with a 352 that has sat for about 15 years im in school for restoration right now and but im doing this car out side of school and ive been wanting to tear into its engine for about 3 months now but instead doin the interior slowly but this video pretty much showed the tear down process and i now it doesnt seem as intimidating as i thought
Hi Matt, i have recently finished helping my dad restore our 1963 Ford Thunderbird, I am 15 and i learnt some pretty cool stuff. Your videos are very descriptive and every tiny detail counts on this channel. While working on the Ford FE390 we had some tissue paper near by whilst we were putting in the crank shaft, and i reached for it and tore a bit off too wipe my face, and i noticed in the light all the FM that fell onto the cam. It almost destroyed our build so just a heads up, beware of tissue paper, a part from that loving this series :)
Good for you for the project and for at only 15 being interested in in depth videos- most adults don't have the patience to sit through it.
Lint from tissue paper falling into a cam cannot destroy the engine though- it has no abrasive quality and as long as it isn't big enough to block the oil returns or something it eventually would just get caught up in the oil filter. If you had like a few whole pieces of kleenex in the cam area that clogged the oil return that's a different story. But traces of lint- it would have had no effect on your rebuild and certainly would not have destroyed it.
Schrodingers Box Okay, thanks this is great to know, i took out the crank shaft again and washed it with a lint free cloth, anyway i guess it's better to be safe than sorry, i will remember for next time, Cheers Matt.
Jordan Bishop Actually there is conceivably theoretical situation where a piece of tissue paper could cause a significant problem. If, by chance, a piece of tissue paper (or really, really excessive lint) were somehow between a cap and bearing and went unnoticed before you assembled and torqued the parts, I can see where that would conceivably become a major issue, clogging the oil hole for that bearing or even offsetting the torque. But that's a hell of a stretch. Best to be safe as you were and make it spotless but much, much more abrasive stuff will be circulating that new rebuild before the first oil change than some kleenex lint. That's why you definitely want to change the oil and filter after the first couple hundred miles- to remove the much more concerning normal break-in particulates.
This is all very interesting, how a bit of FM can sabotage your engine, but yes i agree, changing the oil filter is a great idea :)
Dude, I love your style. To the point and no bullshit. Thank you for alot of info. About to go into my first ever rebuild on my 302 that lost oil pressure after a new oil pump. And I suspect bad bearings. The original oil pump did seize and break the oil pump shaft.
You will do quite well with the rebuild. Do your research and take your time
I really enjoy your comments about Haynes manual people. I find Haynes a partial reference but always misses something important in the entire processes.
Thumbs up for the extended vocabulary and wit!
Anyone who can use the term "penultimate vindication" correctly is already my hero. Now to keep watching.
you tell them put the book away guys lol ...great video bud i learn alot when i watch your clips keep them coming !
3:02
21 and working on rebuilding my 2.8L v6 chevy motor.
First time I've attempted it.
Found this to get some direction.
Cool video and great instructor! Tells it like it is! Thumbs up, sir!!!!
Happy I found this video. I need to learn, but my budget went out the window first week into calculating costs
Thanks S-box : your uploads and your down to eath normal explaining of what to do and how to do it . is giving me hope that i can do my first engine rebuild and small tun up when i get my first V8 in 14 dayes. 1979 olds 403 6,6L from a trans am. until now i have only found video´s of Extremly detail and hig price rebuild videos of the old and cool v8 engin´s. i will be following you channel her from Denmark.
Thanks my friend. I have quite a few subs from Denmark now- they really seem to be into this as I have thousands of views from there!
LOVE the 79 Trans Am btw- the 77 is what started it for me- Smokey and the Bandit of course lol!!!
I like how you removed the boat anchor intake manifold on that thing !!!! Thank God for aluminum intakes !!!!
Hi from Spain, I am a student and your chanel is amazing, thanks master,
i laughed out loud when you said they can take that haynes manual and show up right up there butt i def subscribed very informative and straight to the point
I learned years ago,its cheaper to swap an engine than rebuild. Even then,if you do a swap,you want to go through that engine and change things as long as its out. Water pump,timing chain and gears,oil pump, gasket kit,seals,all the stuff short of a rebuild. Its easier to put a new oil pan gasket in while its out,than after you put it in.
This guy is a badass, love how real he is. I would have fallen asleep if not for the occasional humorous comment.
+MrClockRocket hahaha thanks man glad you "get it"!
Love your delivery style, very well spoken! Nicely done videos, great content thanks.
Awesome videos, awesome truck. I have a FE in my 67' F100 4x4 that needed a head gasket changed. I dropped and cleaned the oil pan so it looks good as new (was very very dirty), did a full gasket change to the engine as shown in your videos. All the push rods looked to be in very good shape, but I did not pay any attention as to the order that they went in. None of them looked any different from one another. The engine is back together and running better than ever, but I am a bit concerned after seeing how you kept track of them. I know a fair amount considering my age, 18, but I feel as though I may have made a big mistake here. What do you think the consequence of this is going to be? The truck is all stock and only used for getting around / work. Nothing high performance whatsoever. Any info is appreciated.
Not sure, but I would say this guy is a Scientist by day who has forgotten more about repairing cars than most people who beat on cars for a living.
Thank you. Subbed for straight to the point no BS.
thats true after watching part 2 u pretty much answered my question, ill have to save up and spend the money, i would hate to get it all together and spin a rod bearing or pump metal shavings through the system, good series though👍
You’re very detailed. Learned a great deal from this video. Great job!!
Common sense approach to rebuilding an engine. Well done.
awesome video, very detailed, and professional, easy to understand, thanks for taking your time to do this for us!
Beautiful vid Mister.... I just did the compression test on my Dakota V6 and #3 and #6 cylinder fail the test very low compare to the others, i would really like your advice... btw engine is only 80K+ miles, thank you!
***** Unfortunately there is no way around it- if you have low compression in any cylinders, at the very least, that head needs to come off and at worst, that engine needs replaced. Low compression in a cylinder (or two) ALWAYS means serious engine issue.
My advice- try to see if the compression problem is cylinder head or bottom end. I do this with a leakdown test but if you don't have that setup then repeat your compression test after adding about 3tblsp of engine oil to the cylinder. If the compression greatly increases, it's bottom end (e.g. rings) and you need an engine rebuild or replacement. If it doesn't change much, it's valves and you can likely get by with just cylinder head machining or replacement- a much more realistic option than a rebuild or replacement.
Your situation however is a bit more concerning- since you have low compression on opposite sides, at best case scenario you would need both heads machined or replaced.
Sorry to hear that bro but any way you look at it, you have some tough decisions ahead. Best of luck bro.
I have been fixing cars for about 15 years. Have seen alot of Haynes books in back seats and under seats. Find them very entertaining you could say.....;-)
I know what you mean. Reading section 2 in a Haynes manual and actually doing it--- it almost makes you wonder who wrote it in the first place lol.
I bought a set of number and letter punches at Harbor Freight. Great to stamp R or L on things or to number connecting rods and caps.
Randall Dalton Lol, same set I have!!!
I may just be high but this video locked my attention.
great video, my kinda stuff.
dont sweat the the negative comments, they are all over youtube...They know everything but have no videos.
Hi, thanks for taking the time to post most informative, and a funny dude, love the Haynes manual, and AD&D quotes.
"Those that can do, those that cant talk about it, and criticize TH-cam uploads."
Once again sincerest thanks. PS wenches are call spanners over here, then again we have boots and bonnets........................quite worrying.
I had a 65 352ci in my galaxy 500. Huge engine!
Dude please, I rebuilt my first engine at 17 yo, a 327 small block, I watched a friend do a 350, I never looked at no Haynes book.
Yeah sure I had some help taking it out and in but I did all the reassembly. I did send the heads out to Napa for valve cuts, but I ported them myself.
what do you think about just taking an engine that was pulled from the car and flipping it over on the stand and swapping out the bearings and put it back together. As long as the crank is smooth on the finger nail test. I don't even want to clean the block, just pull it and swap out the bearings and put her back together. Whats the protocol on doing an extreme budget rebuild like that? and of course new oil pan gasket. I would like to take a small block chevy I have and power wash it, compress air dry it out and spray all precision surfaces with WD40 and swap bearings. Oh also take the heads and do my own upgrades since I want to swap out the cam with a performance cam by adding new beehive springs, new seals and keepers and do my own valve lap work. I don't want to use any machine shop work at all. What you think bout that? Is it safe as long as the crank feels smooth and everything is fine after visual inspection? The engine is a 4-bolt main with high mileage but never smoked or knocked and had good oil pressure, just high mileage . thanks
Not a problem with that. If something is in spec, it is in spec whether or not you have it machined. I very often do exactly as you describe. If something doesn’t need machine work, then there is no benefit in spending for it.
I really could watch this all day but have never done this myself. I have a 4 cylinder I want to try this on before I do the v8. Please don't hate on me I'm only here to learn
Otto von Chesterfield, Esquire I never hate on those who are here learn.
Schrodingers Box I just replaced the head gasket on my old 1969 Jaguar and thought it was maybe a bit too easy. I was wondering if replacing the piston rings is going to be *that* much harder? Thank you.
not harder but takes much longer
Most likely you'll find that the majority of V8s are much simpler to work on than a four cylinder.
Samuel Thomas Why is that?
So, with a dead/malfunctioning lifter, the bore and od of the lifter can wear? Seems odd that a cast iron block wall would get worn that way. Have you seen this before?