Missing THIS Would've Cost Us THOUSANDS of Dollars!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มี.ค. 2023
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The engine from the Allis Chalmers Two Ten tractor is going back together, but we almost missed one more piece of damage! Luckily we caught it before it was too late.
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Nice work 👏
So the cleaning guy feel comfortable with the current rebuild. Good luck
Got a bit of a question for you, I am currently fixing up a head for my Isuzu Trooper 3.1 turbo diesel engine (new valve guides, exhaust valves etc), have been cleaning up rough patches in the ports. I have noticed the valve seats protrude a ways into the ports, the portion that does protrude is rounded. Being that I am cleaning up the ports, will this be a problem for air flow?. Cheers.
Was so glad to see you take the time to make sure the alternator was in time🤣🤣🤣🤣lol
Hey, I hate to do this… The comment section mechanics and safety warriors usually drive me crazy. But this piece of advice is coming directly from a heavy equipment mechanic with direct experience on what I'm about to say lol: earlier this week I was pounding in wheel seals with my seal driver, and the head is all mushroomed over. On the third seal, I hit the driver and a chunk of that mushroom piece flew off and hit me in the face. It actually drew blood. Never had that happen before. So I see your valve seat installing tool looks just like my seal installing tool and I was thinking you might wanna grind that down a little bit so you don't end up eating a piece of that like I did lol.. nice job on the diagnostics and tear down on this. Really interesting issue that came up with this engine. I like how thorough you guys are.
I've been bit by chisels that look like that too. 3 minutes on a bench grinder every couple if years is way better than stitches.
I was taught to grind off mushrooming heads back in HS metals shop and have religiously attended to any tool began to mushroom takes less than 10 seconds
Weird the things that stick with you
@@bigj231 Sure is! I've had pieces of punches and chisels hit me in the face as well. Never pleasant! Thankfully, I've become a little bit smarter over the years. I've started wearing safety glasses & face shields much more often, when I know I'll be striking on things up close.
Other things to be very cautious around are grinding wheels and cut off wheels. I have a small piece of a 4.5"dia fiberglass cut off wheel stuck in my cheek to this very day.
It's crazy, because I can still remember it like yesterday, and it was easily a decade ago now. I remember the stinging pain, and thinking that I was glad I had safety glasses & my N95 dust mask on. I remember going to the bathroom to look in the mirror, once I had realized I was bleeding. Washed the blood off my face, put a little bit of Neosporin & a Band-Aid on it, and went back to work. Never thought about it again, as I never realized that something was actually still stuck in my cheek, at the point of the wound.
I was reconstructing & fabricating a 53' van trailer's 5th wheel pin & plate crossmembers & flooring structure. A ton of cutting, grinding, & welding going on.
Anyhow, I never knew there was a piece of grinding wheel still lodged in my face until the ER doctors did a full body scan of me, after I was in a severe pickup truck accident.
The doctors were baffled by what the strange white spot was in my cheek, in their scan picture of my skull & face.
Upon discussion, they even physically re-inspected my teeth & face. We then continued to discuss, until they concluded that what had happened to me years prior was the most likely cause of the unknown spot. LOL, so crazy!
They said that if it doesn't bother me, best to just leave it alone. Any additional intrusions at this point could just scar up and potentially cause unwanted problems to my face.
Point is, safety precautions sure can be a royal PITA sometimes, but the injuries they can prevent sure do make their use worthwhile.
@@ShaunHensley That's that I do too, grind off the mushroomed heads.
I've been noticing that as well and debated if I wanted to say something about it. 😆
I appreciate your style and delivery. I am not a mechanic, but 67 years of farm and trucking experience, I found this episode very informative, in particular the discussion of cavitation of the cylinder walls. Your on-screen presence conveys a trust-worthy, calm, steady manner - not a fast-paced state-fair huckster selling ginsu knives. You both convey believability, and welcoming discussion about the topic at hand - in other words a couple of guys we would love to lean against the workbench and hoist a beverage or two with on a late afternoon. Cheers!
Ditto
I came here to say the same thing. This series of videos has really taught me a lot. Thanks for taking the time to put it all together.
Perfectly stated! I also appreciate their father/son relationship. I didn’t enjoy such a relationship with my father but I used that experience to make sure my two sons don’t grow up the same way as I did.
Absolutely spot on Sir.
Base engine Engineer from Cummins here, the connecting rod oil drilling feeding the small end was eliminated as it turns out it actually doesn't feed the small end with oil. The movement of the rod and alignment of the oil drillings ends up being such that the hole fills up with oil, but doesn't end up delivering a flow of oil to the bushing.
The rotation of the connecting rod is to move that slot away from the loaded zone of the bearing during rotation. The slot takes away from effective bearing area, and increases wear of the bearing, so while not critical, it's very beneficial to have them rotated the correct orientation.
Nice build! Really enjoy the videos!
Hope this makes it up higher in the comments
Overfueling will increase chamber pressure, combined with the undefined fuel timing issue, I think you're still on to the solution. Nice video!
As a fellow engine builder and diagnostition, I absolutely love your mission and style of delivery. Keep up the great content!! We never quit learning.....
I love this channel - I feel like I'm in the shop as they have their very folksy discussion, giving clear explanations and shots of what (and how) they found while sharing their insightful conclusions. Both men are so humble as they talk about the task at hand and the pros and cons of what viewers wrote. Nicholas found the way to keep me from forwarding through the promotion by showing he and Jim continuing work on the project while pitching the sponsor. Excellent job ... thank you for sharing with us!
Don't you just love a good mechanical mystery series? It's like a game of Clue. Was it the butler with bad fuel, was it injection pump not to specifications. Or was it made in China, China?
I bet that pump being 20% over was the biggest cause of the problem. Because Allison had to see a problem with it for them to add piston coolers in the later model that were only slightly high Horsepower tractors. That's just my theory.
yep more fuel will make the exhaust temps shoot up
I would expect that if over fueling by the pump were the problem it would have been present in all the cylinders, not just a few with the other, good pistons looking perfect.
...and smoke like a locomotive
@@Mr_Meowingtons to a point, then smoke bad
@@Mr_Meowingtons to a point, then bad smoke!!
Have you guys thought about running an EGT probe and gauge to help keep an eye on the engine? I would think it would be a worth while investment considering all the issues you've had and work you've put into this tractor.
What a fantastic video guys. I could listen to your dad and you as well, explain things all day. I still say he should be a teacher, there's not many good ones left.
The cam ring in the pump was flipped. Shame it was missed when it was torn apart but I guarantee that’s why it was 180* out. If the new shop built the pump right this time it should be fine even with 20% more fuel.
Pretty sure that pump wasn't a true 180 degree off. Pump shop screwed up big time
Injecting fuel too early will overheat pistons just as preignition (over advanced spark) will damage a gasoline engine.
Injecting too much fuel into a diesel just makes it run faster.
@@davidelliott5843 no…
I love watching father and son do stuff together, that is awesome.
It really misses my dad. I hope he's having a good time and heaven.
This is one of the main things I miss. I am doing stuff like this with my father. Hold on to it. It will be the best memories when he's not there.
I work for an engine MRO shop. I’m really impressed to see what you guys are doing just the two of you. Keep up the good work!
If only TH-cam had this quality of content throughout, how awesome would that be! Well done guys, & good luck going forward.
I'm gonna SWAG an idea. Add a braided ground strap from the block to chassis ground...make sure it's not bolted over paint! Also, was the oil cooler clear for coolant flow?
That valve being pushed up like that is called tuliping. Steve Morris had an engine that had this issue a while ago.
Great explanation of what you guys have seen from the autopsy from Allis.
Joe
I'm starting to develop an emotional connection to this tractor. Very up and down.
It’s a love hate relationship
Well done on a very good failure analysis. Think your fuel pump build is definitely your cause. Might be a good idea to spill time the pump when fitting it and volume check the injectors before fitting them
Agreed, I am interested in hearing more about how the injectors check out.
It would be interesting to put a transducer on the #1 injector line and use a timing light to see what the actual timing is. The old International 7.3 IDIs had those built-in to #1 injector just for that purpose.
This sounds like a great idea! Just to have an extra piece of mind. And check injection is happening when it supposed to.
In hindsight that would've been a great idea!👍
@@GordonTurnerr Still a thing to do with the repair. I'm not a member of the hindsight committee. It's their engine, not mine. Just passionate about such things is all.
@@nhzxboi yeah for sure, but it would've been nice to possibly find that smoking gun ☺
@@GordonTurnerr As the cleaning man said, the evidence was destroyed by pump shop #2. Best hope is a good offense and check things thoroughly before loading the engine up again. Losing the forensic evidence is frustrating(maddening too). With nothing else to go on but guesses, I can bet the guys will be very careful and suspicious of everything so much so that it might make for temporary insanity. Lol. The passion and care put into a build then getting swiped away by a failure is not a fun thing.
I would recommend installing a pyrometer to monitor exhaust temps?
Since I didn’t hear you mention it, are you using coolant with DCA or SCA additives for Diesel engines?
It probably wouldn’t have prevented the liner putting in your case, it is necessary for long term.
Just my 2 cents, for what it’s worth.
Keep up the good work, I really enjoy your vids.
Don't usually like very long videos, but these 23 minutes just flew! It was so interesting and so very well made!😃 Hope you find the final solution to this issue. 👍🏻 Keep up the great work, Cheers from Italy!!
Maybe I missed you talking about it, but have you run the injectors on a test stand? The pump may have been turned up some but that wouldn't have been as big an issue as if an injector was over fueling.
I enjoy the attitude you guys have as its refreshing to see a father and son work and thrive together....when i was growing up we used a shop here in florida that was there for 40years and were good guys as well but as the years grew new faces a some issues with those new faces customer service and quality
If it were my ag engine I would replace the oil cooler core. It is most likely the original and has deteriation/cavitation/deposits internally that could restict flow. As you know maintaining proper flow keeps the liners/pistons as cool as they can be. I have 50 years experience on diesel engines was ASE certified for Cat, Cummins, Detroit and Navistar diesel engines until I let the certification run out. Keep up the great videos!
Make sure to use a charged cooland to prevent cavitation and electrolysis NAPA has a purple one that I use in my 77 AC 7040...
What did the injection pump folks think was the issue? Monitoring EGTs should give you a good indication of what is going on up top.
Liquid dye penetrant. This is Type 2, method C, form D.
Always pre-clean the part you're going to inspect with the solvent that comes in the kit.
Allow it to dry for about 20 minutes.
Spray the penetrant on the area of interest and let it dwell for 10 minutes minimum.
Wipe off the excess using a lint free cloth to remove the bulk penetrant, followed by a solvent dampened lint free cloth. Never spray solvent on the part to remove the excess penetrant or you will remove the penetrant from the defect and ruin you ability to detect it.
Let the solvent evaporate for 10 minutes.
Apply the non-aqueous developer by spraying in short bursts to just mist the part. Do not overapply the developer. Let it dwell for 10 minutes minimum and evaluate.
Pre-cleaning removes the organic material (oil, grease, etc). This will allow the penetrant to fill the crack.
A better inspection method is magnetic particle inspection. This method only works on ferrous materials. Cleaning is not as important.
I gather you have done penetrant inspection a few times before! Are you working in Aerospace NDT?
Suggestion - when you start the engine check the manifold exhaust temperature with a pyrometer or heat gun for over-fuelling - especially under load, also
Have you checked that you have the correct nozzles in the injectors and that they are set to the correct pressures / spray pattern?
Exactly
Yes,nozzles hole angle
Good catch on the valves. Also, I've never heard of rings doing what you're describing. Sounds like a quality issue to me. Great work being meticulous and solving this mystery!
In your previous videos, I could tell that the injection pump was off. If you look at the spray pattern and how it is up out of the bowl, that is a big issue because it can spray flame at your ring land area. My 25-plus years of experience is that you never want fuel to be sprayed beyond the 38° mark. The hotrod diesel guys that run out of injector volume will crank up the injector duty cycle. They end up pushing the limits on it and torch the ring lands. That is, of course, on electronic injection, but it still applies.
You guys are super-methodical and careful, analysing everything and considering things from all conceivable angles. Bravo!
When I was at UNOH for auto/diesel in ‘82/3. We talked a lot about the prevalence of cavitation in diesel’s. The explanation we were taught was also mechanical vibration as a primary cause but also coolant quality and chemistry. Aeration is a common factor. A comment mentioning grounding straps seems good advice also as cathodic corrosion can occur too. The takeaway was correct clearances all around, balance, and coolant testing and maintenance as a religion. We were shown liners with million plus miles that literally looked and measured as new, and other liners with cooling issues that were cavitated terribly after only a few hundred thousand.
I turned wrenches at the Chevy dealership for a few years then got into industrial maintenance. Worked at a liquid detergent plant (you’re soaking in it). Cavitation in our pumps and piping was a huge problem. We had impellers that were 10+ inches diameter that would literally erode to near nothing in months. Aeration and gassing was typically the given cause. Sorry to see your woes, but great sleuthing and sharing your experience. Maybe you’ll never know the cause for sure but it looks like you’ve loaded your shotgun for great results 😊
I have had 2 engines in the machine shop recently and I wish I had been able to watch these videos years ago because bad things happened that could have been prevented had I known more about what goes on in a machine shop. Thank you for some very enjoyable videos.
These videos barely scratch the surface.
@@mikeznel6048 The biggest problem is communication. I am rebuilding VW motors from the 1950s and the machine shop spends most of its time on BIG diesels. I've seen pots 6" in diameter. So I'm not asking the right questions and they are not asking the right questions so there are returns that shouldn't happen. Your channel helps me to ask the right questions.
I'm not a machinist or an engine builder but rather an assembler. Ring gap's and other blueprint type procedures and new valve's with magnaflux are high on my priority list. Hope you guy's get this sorted and hope it lasts for a very long time. In farming, time is money but on a larger scale than most understand.
As a 'Diesel Fitter', I am learning SO much from watching this channel. Love your work, gentlemen! Keep it up!!👍🙂
Hi guys I believe you guys are looking in the right direction, I don't if you have done this yet ,but run that injection pump serial number and calibration number with the serial number of the machine.
Just a note Valve rotators go on the intake, on an Allis Chalmers
Awesome video! Thanks for taking us down the rabbit hole and explaining every aspect of processes applied for your diagnosis and repair of the Old AC.
Is there a farm tractor dealer or a repair facility nearby? They may have a pto dyno that can verify the engine’s power and how it is operating before going in the field.
Many tractors can tolerate 20-30 hp over factory as long as the cooling system is keeping up.
My own farm tractor is 25% over factory (60 hp factory to 80 hp according to pto dyno) Has been that way since 1999.
I have worked on a turbocharged JD 4020 that my friend purchased with a seized engine as a project to fix up and sell.
The fuel pump was sent to a pump shop and they said it was turned up in every way possible which caused the seizure.
After the engine was overhauled, it was ran on a pto dyno which showed 120 hp. Without the turbo hooked up, the 404 cid engine made 100 hp.
When you get it running you should check fuel timing. There is an adapter to go on the fuel line, that puts out a pulse and you can use a standard timing gun. Mark TDC #1 on the crank and put a mark on the block where you can line it up with the timing light. At that point it's like checking timing on a 350 Chevy. Would be a good check to do to verify fuel timing and to rule out any possibility that you have a timing issues. You should also be able to then run it wide open to make sure the timing advance is also advancing fuel delivery properly
Since the injector spray pattern looked "suspicious" before it would be interesting to take a look with a borescope to see how the pattern looks with the new fuel pump rebuild.
I think this is my third time watching this series and I had the same thought. Hopefully I can catch another premiere and bring it up where they are more likely to see it.
I run a Cummins Big Cam 4. Fuel is relatively cheap, so why not pull ALL the fuel and use a new batch of fresh so you know what you have? That's what I'd do. One less variable to deal with. Love you guys!
I'm excited to see it going back together. I hope it goes well. It seems like you've covered all your bases.
*_I went back to the original build video, and I noticed while your backs were turned and you were on the bench working, in the background you can see a cat throw up a really big hair ball into the engine. So, there's that._*
A friend of mine runs an fuel injection system repair service and told about the cleaning guys experience with his allis chalmers and he said the pump timing very important on the fuel system. He told me 1 degrees to a diesel is the same as 10 degrees on a gas and it would cause galling in a diesel engine.
THE HARMONIC BALANCER SLIPPED. SHOWING TIMING TO BE WRONG. I have to many times. RICK ROBERTS.
You need to put 6 egt probes in so you can watch things. I know it's would be expensive but worth it
It may sound crazy but it sounds a bit like you had gasoline in the diesel fuel. A lot if what you experienced is textbook for that issue. You were correct to retest your fuel just to be sure it’s not loaded.
I guess when it comes to kits ALWAYS check the specs as your experience with the ring gap shows. Like some others have pointed out before, mushroomed head tools can have metal fly off like shrapnel. Cat has a good safety video showing this called, "Shake Hands With Danger".
Previous owner added a bit of petrol to the diesel to aid winter starting maybe, surely if the timing was way advanced you would hear it when the engine ran
Great video! This is super interesting. Thank you for breaking down such a complex situation with an easy to follow approach. Bravo!
BTW - I would have sworn I was subscribed before, but I'm for sure subscribed now.
I appreciate the fact you guys are going through the trouble shooting and thought process. Even though the engine blew up, and you could hide it.
I love your videos. How you and your dad explain these things makes it really interesting. I also love to see different content, doesnt matter if its engine machining or these projects 😎❤️ Much love from Finland 🇫🇮
Very cool video. Educational and informative. Wish more people were that concerned about finding the root cause and not just putting a bandaid on it and calling it fixed.
Our pulling tractor uses the same type of pump as you have on the AC. I have checked timing using an injection line transducer and a timing light, it is a good thing to do, but keep in mind it will not match the pump timing. This is because the transducer is looking for swelling in the injection line, the pump is timed with air on the pump port and at less than full load the fuel has not yet built pressure when the pump port is exposed.
Love to see Allis Chalmers equipment. Through the years dad had a D-21, a 190 I think it was and a 7060, as well as a WC and a WD chore tractor. Thank you for doing such good work on a nice piece of equipment.
Great review. Love the Father/Son team. Fingers crossed for the pump and start-up🤞🏼
Keep up the great work. As others have said, it takes a lot to keep me interested for 20+ minutes. Easy to watch your videos!
I do this type of machining every day in Australia and it is s fun to watch how you guys do it, so much the same and different. very fun to watch and learn from these videos.
That little yellow flat bed ford is just awesome! I had a ford courier in my front yard for probably 2 years and sold it to a guy as a resto project. Such awesome little trucks
Glad you seen that hope it turns out good for you and runs the rest of the tractors life thanks for sharing
Mentioned in the last video what your liner protrusion looked like. Doesn’t look like your too concerned about it. If you had coolant under the valve cover seems like it may have been part of the problem.
Nicely done. I think we all have missed a little detail building something once in a while. Digging in and taking an honest look makes us all better going forward. Interesting that the minimum ring gap spec just left zero room for other errors - good decision to move to the middle. Farm equipment isn't racing: it just needs to be able to run all day long.
Really like the detective work. Brings home the lessons and instructions about tolerance and double checking work.
i love at 18:00 Jim basically saying "I'll do it after you leave"
You guys are great to watch
Always appreciate the content!! I’m glad to see you and your dad as close as you are now. Saw the video about how you guys had your differences before you started the TH-cam thing. I appreciate the fact you guys are here at this point working together! And documenting it all!! I’m in California but I would like an engine rebuilt by you guys!! Wouldn’t mind driving out there. But I’m not 100% sure where you guys are located!! Keep it up and god bless!!
Those were some good finds! If you’re using the same fuel source for other equipment and not having issues I really don’t see how it could be the issue here. Looking forward to seeing how it runs when it’s done
Impressive how much that Clean Up guy knows about engines.
Brilliant work you two.
Sadly I'm too far away but I'd have no hesitation hiring you guys for my rebuilding needs.
Great video, and very fascinating how that engine broke down. 👍🏻
I appreciate the in-depth videos of the failure! I have a 1974 Allis Chalmers 7030. When my dad and Allis Chalmers mechanic friend rebuilt it 30 years ago they ran into a similar issue. The engine would seize up when hot. I believe they had to tear it down a couple times and ended up honing it out to prevent it from happening again.
I sure enjoy your channel along with Uncle Tony's Garage, who also talks about quaint and curious engine problems, characteristics and design shortcomings...keep up the good work.
Being an auto mechanic and son of a life long engine builder I gotta say thank you guys. So tough to find quality content and it's obvious you guys got it going on.
This is such a great channel. When you go in depth with your diagnosis and analysis. You are giving us great instructional and interesting videos. So many other channels do not do this. So thank you for such a great video and a great channel.
Great job Fellas. What a blessing you have your father to work with. 👍🏼🙏🏼
Love your videos and this one has been particularly riveting. Post event forensics are always super interesting.
I really like how y'all work well together and kinda just making a "documentary" of your daily duties. Before my health failed me this is the way I worked too, nice and clean, basic mechanic/machinist principles, checking everything, using traditional assembly lube even
I've been loving the series in this tractor. It's a poopy scenario but I love that the process of looking into the root cause really brings out the knowledge and experience.
Love the way you do this. It’s amazing. Working on diesels. It’s crazy to see this. They are so freaking tuff
Really enjoying this tractor series 👍 love the diagnostics that is taking place👍👍❤️
The cavitation pitting was especially prevalent on the Cummins engines, but all diesels can be suseptable to it. Those pits will be on the major and minor thrust portions. Coolant formulations for diesels have additives to prevent the pitting, but those additives get used up over time. Regular coolant changes help.
What causes the pits? Neucleate boiling in the system. As the combustion progresses and the piston transitions from the combustion stroke to the power stroke, it slaps the liner. This causes the liner to move outward a bit. Kind of like expand in a concentrated area. This gets the coolant moving outward, gaining inertia. Then the liner wall moves back to its static position, but the inertia of the coolant causes localized low pressure areas where bubbles form. Shortly later the coolant can move back putting pressure on the bubbles that are along the liner wall, collapsing the bubbles. The coolant rushes into the area the bubble had taken up, crashing into the liner. This erodes the outside of the liner. Eventually pinholes in the liner develop letting coolant into the cylinder.
I was a mechanic on automotive and heavy duty for 30+ years.
After listening to all your rebuild issues, didn't quite get the pressure on your pump being over in the beginning or not. We set our two ten up in pressure and timing a little. As I said before I would never trust the end gaps from the factory. I would have put new rings and all new exhaust valves with the issues you had. Glad you found the cracked valve.
Anxious to hear that beast run and see it pull.
I learn so much watching these videos! I hate to say it but thank you TH-cam lol I’d love to get into this field one day. Not many places in East Tennessee 😢
Love my JAMSI channel! Lots of good information.
Binge watched this series twice.....wealth of knowledge in this repair....hoping you won't have to do this next year.... watching from Ndola Zambia 🇿🇲🇿🇲
Thanks for the great video, keep them coming!
Had a fiat allis fd30 v8 did the identical thing. Scored liners distroyed pistons. I actully went back to the old liners and old pistons new rings no more issues
I'm just spit balling here... but I couldn't help but notice the coolant opening that goes from the feed to the liner is larger on 1 and 2 than the others (i.e, they are a rectangle where-as 3-6 are square). It seems to me that even if the entire system is being put under pressure by the pump, in other words the pump volume exceeds all the openings... 1 and 2 would get more flow no matter what... and that much being further away 5 and 6 would get less. Maybe enlarge 5 and 6?
i've seen 6.7 ford valves cracked like that a lot lately. High cyl temp and combustion pressure makes a lot of sense.
the fact that the diesel injection pump was over fueling by 20 % and now been rectified if all runs ok you then want a report off the company stating the problems they found and that has been the only thing rectified thats cured your problem and ask the first pump builder what they propose to do about the inconvienance and cost its caused you
I sure do enjoy your videos, and listening to the tear down guy, he really has a way of explaining things!
I learn more off of your videos than any other video that there is. Very informative easy to understand thank you
Great video. As for the cavitation, if I remember right, caterpillar has an additive to prevent liner cavitation.
Really love these videos guys 👌 I think we can all agree the injection timing is the root cause, although my theories on parts of the failure are slightly different. The cavitation erosion on the liner is caused by the liner bulging during combustion rather than the force of the piston hitting it as it rocks over TDC. This would be much more pronounced if the pump was wildly over advanced. The excess pressure in the cylinder will also cause the top ring to be pushed into the bore harder, this will knock the cross hatch off almost as quick as the ends butting. Either way, the pump is the smoking gun. Keep up the good work, can't wait to hear it run.
I'd use cat ELC coolant. Put all that money into it. Spend money on the fluids too.
Fantastic Autopsy series Fellas! Great catch on the cracked valves.
At 10:32, If the engine cools front to back, why do the coolant ports that feed the liners get smaller towards the back? That is backwards. You want the smallest opening at the coldest, highest pressure point, cylinder 1. When the water is hot at the back, you need to increase flow to get the same cooling rate. Cylinder 6 where the water would be hottest gets the least water? 6 looks half the size of 1. In addition, the ones on cylinder 1&2 are very jagged while 3&4 are pretty square. Perhaps an internal casting flaw/top of port broke away?
Extreamly interesting thought process on what is the root cause of the engine failure . Thanks for sharing !
Another good analysis video on the tractor engine guys. The heat caused must have been tremendous to crack the Stellite exhaust valves like that. Ate they sodium filled too? Looking forward to first start up soon!
Glad we all learned something new and I kinda agree with the pump theory. I wish you were able to get it also.
I feel sorry for all the Chalmer’s engines out in the marketplace right now because given your alls top notch video’s, everyone will want one to work on. Best engine rebuild instructional video on TH-cam. Well done fellas.
I've a case engine needing similar work. your vid helps me think I might succeed with it.